This pattern was born out a) an urge to make mittens and b) an even greater urge to use Deborah Norville Serenity Chunky-Weight yarn (SO SOFT). I'd tried to make mittens before, and the decreases at the top always kicked my butt. I was making my first ever sock when it hit me: why not use the toe/heel decrease instead of decreasing around?!

And thus, for your viewing pleasure, the Chunky Mittens were born. These make great liners, and would probably be rad if you made them a bit big then felted them! (I haven't tried this yet, but if you do and it works, tell me!)

(Note: I mentally referenced Julia's Basic Fingerless Mittens pattern for the hands of my mittens, and the finger decreases were, in fact, inspired by the In Your Shoes Ankle Socks. Yes, it's a convoluted train of thought, but it worked, right? Also, this pattern hasn't been tested, and it's my first posted pattern. If you note a mistake, or if something doesn't make sense, feel free to point it out...NICELY.)

-1 Skein Deborah Norville Chunky Weight Yarn (100 % acrylic, 100 grams, 109 yds (100 m) per skein) (I used Red Orche, but any color will do)
-Size 6.50 (K-10) hook
-Measuring tape
-Yarn needle
-Safety pins or stitch markers

Custom!

Not important for this pattern, since you'll be using your own hand measurements.

-All sc are worked in the front loop only unless otherwise noted.
-All rounds are worked in a spiral.

First, you need to make some measurements so the mittens fit.

Measurement V: The circumference of your wrist at its thinnest.
Measurement W: The height of your hand from where the wrist joins the hand to where the bottom of your thumb joins your hand (about 1/3 of your hand)
Measurement X: The height of your hand from where the wrist joins the hand to the tip of your pinkie (about 4/5 of your hand).
Measurement Y: The height of your hand from where the wrist joins the hand to the tip of your middle finger (aka the height of your hand).
Measurement Z: The length of your thumb.

Write all these down so you can refer back to them later.

Mittens (Make Two):

Cuff:

A cute little fall pumpkin

Hook size 4.50
orange yarn
green yarn
needle
fibre fill

3inches

4.50

Chain 9
Second ch from hook sl st , 1 single crochet, 1 half double crochet, 2 double crochet, 1 half double, 1 single crochet and 1 slip shift, turn ch 1
Repeat in back loops only for 19 rows
Cinch bottom together
Stuff pumpkin
Sctog around top of pumpkin with green, continue around in single crochet to make the stem
Chain 10, in second chain from hook 3 single crochets, 3 single crochets in each chain till end, leave long end, sew to stem
Tie off loose ends

I like these bangles, they're comfy and they don't make a loud racket when you move your arms!
Make them in a rainbow of colours to suit your outfit or simply give them as gifts.
This pattern first appeared on my blog http://hookylove.blogspot.com/

I used Rowan Cotton Rope (Aran weight) but any aran weight would do, and a 4.5mm hook.

variable, that's the best thing!

Gauge is not important, just make sure the starting chain can fit around your wrist!
I used a smaller hook than stated on the yarn, just to make the gauge is tight so the bangle has more structure.

I write in UK terms!

Abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
sl st: slip stitch
blo: back loop only
ws: wrong side
sts: stitches

Ch 35, sl st into 1st chain to join (careful not to twist the chain!)

Row 1: Ch 1,dc in one leg of each foundation ch around. Sl st into 1st dc to join

Row 2: Work all sts in blo. Ch 1, dc in each dc around. Sl st to 1st dc to join

Rows 3 & 4: Repeat row 2

To finish, fold in half with ws facing to form bangle shape. Sl st around, joining blo of Row 4 to one leg of foundation ch. end off.

For the black and red bangle I alternated the colours each row, for the red and yellow I changed colour for rows 2&3 then back to the original colour for row 4

Happy bangling!

This is a simple purse pattern, perfect to make as a gift or simply to keep for yourself!

This was first published on my blog http://hookylove.blogspot.com/

You will need around 55 metres of aran weight yarn (I used Patons Dew) a 4.5mm crochet hook, two buttons, some material for lining, a yarn needle, a sewing needle, some thread, a 10cm x 5cm purse frame and some textile glue. (I got the frame and glue from http://www.u-handbag.com )

Diameter tbc

diameter after 9 rows = tbc, 16sts = 10cm wide to fit purse frame.

It's easy enough to adjust the purse size depending on the frame. The purse diameter can be increased by adding rows follwing the same increase of 9 sts per row (or omitting rows for a smaller diameter) and the top of the purse can be adjusted by increasing or decreasing the number of htr in the centre of row 10. For more depth add rows of dc.

All terms used in this pattern are in UK terminology:

st - stitch
sts - stitches
blo - Back loop only
Ch - chain
sl st - slip stitch
dc - double crochet
htr - half treble
tr - treble
dtr - double treble
WS - wrong side
RS - right side

Purse body - make 2

Ch5 sl st into 1st ch to join.

Row 1: Ch 2 (counts as dc) 8dc in circle. (9sts)

Do not join. Work rows in a spiral. Mark end of each row with a stitch marker and move up as purse progresses. All sts worked in blo.

Row 2: 2dc in each dc around (18sts)

Row 3: (Dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc) Repeat around. (27sts)

Row 4: (dc in next 2dc, 2dc in next dc) Repeat around (36sts)

Row 5: (dc in next 3dc, 2dc in next dc) Repeat around (45sts)

Row 6: (dc in next 4dc, 2dc in next dc) Repeat around (54sts)

Row 7: (dc in next 5dc, 2dc in next dc) Repeat around (63sts)

Row 8: (dc in next 6dc, 2dc in next dc) Repeat around (72sts)

Row 9: (dc in next 7dc, 2dc in next dc) Repeat around (81sts)

End of spiral rounds.

Great for showing off any homespun yarn with great texture and colors. A quick project that can be completed in one to two hours. This scarf is easy to adjust to your tastes, if you like long scarves chain more at the beginning. You can probably get 2 skinny scarves out of one skein, so make one for you and one for a friend.

1 skein of Lion Brand Homespun yarn - Bulky weight 6 oz 185 yds
N (13mm) Hook

as long as you want!

Bulky yarn with N (13mm) hook

Super
Simple
Skinny

Homespun is soft but kinda hard to work with all the nubs and bumps and all so not for a beginner.

Body of scarf
Ch 101

Row 1 Sc in 2nd chain from the hook. Sc across. (100 sts)

Row 2 Ch 3 counts as 1st dc. Dc across

Row 3 Ch 2 counts as 1st hdc. Hdc across

Row 4 Ch 3 counts as 1st dc. Dc across

Row 5 ch 1 sc across

Weave in all ends and enjoy!

Bright and colourful baskets are made from scraps of chunky wool by making a circular 2 colour or 3 colour spiral base, then making the sides using simple motifs and tapestry crochet See Carol Ventura's blog for more on that technique.
These are firm baskets blocked to shape. The yarn is chunky and the hook is fairly small making it easier to cover carried colours but also gives the baskets their firmness.

NOTE: THIS PATTERN IS WRITTEN IN UK CROCHET STYLE
THEREFORE dc = sc in US CROCHET STYLE
Use dc (sc) throughout in the back loops only

Large Basket
4 x 50g Chunky Wool (shown here in Texere chunky)
A: Bright Pink
B: Bright Aqua
C: Green
D: Purple
1 x 3.5mm hook (Clover soft touch is best)
Small Basket
Materials
Small amounts of
Yarn A
Yarn B
Yarn C

Any size you want, depends on how large you make the base...just continue making the spiral until the base is desired size

Size Shown
Large approx 18cm diameter
Small approx 7 cm diameter

Not essential, but make sure you use a much smaller hook to get tight tension and a stiff basket. I used chunky for a normal knitting needle size of around 6mm, but my hook was 3.5 mm.

To change colours, on last stitch before the new colour, whilst 2 lps are on the hook drop working colour and bring to front of work, pick up new colour and pull through the 2 lps.
Make sure that you have a multiple of 12 sts to fit in the motifs so when finishing the bottom, either stop at correct point, or you could increase or decrease a few sts on last rnd of bottom to fit. I started to work in the opposite direction, this was so that the right side of the bottom is on the inside of the basket, and the RS of sides face outwards.
Working in back loops only (this helps to shape the motifs used later) work in straight rnds, of 1 dc in every dc using tapestry crochet motifs and outer circle starts to curl and then you are working in even rnds in a tube shape for the top of the basket.

Large Basket
Bottom
Two Colour Spiral
With Yarn A, make a slip knot, but unlike your slipknot that pulls in or expands easily when pulling the working yarn, make sure that your slipknot is adjustable by pulling the tail of the yarn
Using the working end of yarn A, make 1 ch (to count as 1 dc) and 2 dc into the slipknot ring (3dc)
Using yarn B, make 1 ch (to count as 1 dc) and 2 dc into the slipknot ring made from yarn A (3dc)
Pick up yarn A again and make 2 dc into the top of each of the 3 dc of yarn B that you made into the ring (6dc)
Pick up yarn B and make 2 dc into the top of each of the 3 dc of yarn A that you made into the ring (6dc)
One rnd is complete, and there should be a total of 12 dc, half in colour A and half in the other colour B.
Now pull the tail of yarn A, from the original slipknot, and tighten the ring in the middle to make the stitches snug.
You are now ready to continue working in a spiral.
Work half the rnd in A, remove your hook and complete the other half of the rnd in B always making sure you are going in the same direction.
I used 2 colours in this way to make the bottom of the larger basket. You need to use the same rules for increasing a flat circle as follows:
Increases
In the first rnd work 2 dc in each stitch
Next rnd 1 dc in next st, 2dc in next st
Next rnd 1dc in each of next 2 dc, 2 dc in next st
Continue to increase in this way, putting one more dc in between each of the decrease dc's on each rnd until the basket bottom is the diameter you wish it to be. Make sure the last round is a multiple of 12 stitches, or increase on the last rnd to make a multiple of 12 sts.
Main Body of Basket
Make sure that you have a multiple of 12 sts to fit in these motifs start to work in the opposite direction, so that the right side of the bottom is on the inside of the basket, and the RS of the sides is shown on the outside.
Working in back loops only (this helps to shape the motifs used later) work in straight rnds, of 1 dc in every dc (i.e. without increasing) using tapestry crochet motifs and the outer circle will start to curl and then you are working in even rnds in a tube shape for the top of the basket.
Hounds Tooth Motif Band
Still working back loops only and 1 dc in each dc:
Rnd 1: 1dc in ev dc using Yarn B
Rnd 2: *3dc Yarn B, 1 dc Yarn D, rep from * to end of rnd
Rnd 3: 2dc Yarn B, *3dc Yarn D, 1dc Yarn B rep from * to last 2dc, 2dc Yarn D
Rnd 4: As rnd 2
Rnd 5: As rnd 1
Plain rnd
Still working back loops only and 1 dc in each dc:
2 rnds in Yarn C (green)
Diagonal Motifs Band
Still working back loops only and 1 dc in each dc:
Rnd 1: 1dc in ev dc using Yarn B
Rnd 2: 2dc Yarn D, 2dc Yarn B rep from * to end
Rnd 3: 1 dc Yarn D, 2 dc Yarn B, 2 dc Yarn D rep to last 3dc, 2 dc Yarn B, 1 dc Yarn D
Rnd 4: 2 dc in Yarn B, 2 dc in yarn D to end of rnd
Rnd 5: As rnd 1
Plain rnd
Still working back loops only and 1 dc in each dc:
2 rnds in Yarn C (green)
Fasten off.
Finish edge using Crab Stitch as explained below.
Small Basket
Bottom
3 Coloured Spiral
Join together 3 colours as a spiral, exactly as for 2 colour spiral explained above and as follows:
Using yarns A, B, and C make an initial 3dc each into the slipknot of yarn A, then made dc's into the next yarns in sequence, so
A worked 3dc into B,
B worked 3 dc into C,
and C worked 3 dc into A.
All travelling in the same direction and working in a spiral.
Continue to work all 3 yarns by making a dc in next dc's for a few sts, then removing hook and working another section. This will make a cylinder shape with stripes spiralling around to the top.
For this smaller pot, I stopped making a circle on 4th rnd, and then just worked one dc into every dc for the top part of the basket, finishing with yarn D.
Fasten off when required height.
Finishing Both Baskets
Crab Stitch Edging
You can find tutorials online (see Resources)
To finish off the baskets, use good old fashioned crab stitch. Attach a contrast coloured yarn, here I used Yarn B.
This stitch doesn't so much go sideways as completely backwards.
Pull the hook with a loop on, into the stitch behind the current stitch i.e. backwards, then pull another loop through, and pull up 2 loops and pull the yarn through these 2 loops, and then work backwards again....repeating this sort of gives a cross between a blanket stitch edge or a picot edge in look, you can see where your 2 final loops get pulled around the edge of the basket.
Fasten off, and wrap last bit of yarn around the edge of last stitch twice, secure and weave end on the inside.

How to Block Your Baskets
Wash them both in fairly hot water for a semi felt to stiffen the wool but to keep the shape and size, whilst it is still damp and hot put the large basket onto a flower pot, so it takes the shape of it gradually widening with the flower pot
Put the small basket around a bottle or small pot.
Both baskets can put onto a radiator or in the airing cupboard near warm pipes to dry and when the pots are removed, they take on the shape of them perfectly. If you don't mind a fair amount of shrinkage, you could completely felt them but do remember to try and reshape whilst felting otherwise you could get a shapeless mess.
Abbreviations (A - Z) Beg: Beginning
Ch: Chain
Dc: UK Double Crochet (US sc single crochet)
Lp (s): Loop (s)
St (s) : Stitch (es)

Pretty flower in a bulky yarn something I normally don't use for flowers but makes a nice sized super quick flower.

Super chunky/ Bulky (USA)/ 16ply
I used Rowan Little Big Wool (very small amount used, left over from another project)

6.5mm (10 1/2 / K) hook

Medium to large sized flower depending on yarn used

Gauge will depend on the materials you use, its a quick simple flower so experiment

st – Stitch
sts – Stitches
dc (UK)/ sc (USA) – Double Crochet (UK)/ Single Crochet (USA)
ch – Chain
sl st - Slip Stitch
rnd - Round

http://nezumiworld.blogspot.com/2009/03/blue-flower.html

It took me 3 nights of Tunisian crochet but it was worth it.
It's a combination of 3 different Tunisian Crochet stitches (a 3 row pattern stitch), and let me add that it's very easy to follow.
The variegated yarn and the texture completes the look. The big hook makes this wrap works up fast.

YARN:
Shown in Joann’s Sensations Angel Hair [wool 22%, acrylic 50%, nylon 28%] 120 yd/110m per 3 ½ oz/100gr: Color #110 Blue/taupe stripes: 3 skeins

HOOKS:
Tunisian crochet hook size N-15/10 mm
Crochet hook size M-13/9 mm or any size to obtain correct gauge
Tapestry needle

one size
Finish length: 57”/148.8cm
Finish width: approx 12”/30.5cm

11 sts/10 rows of Tunisian Simple Stitch - TSS= approx 4"x4"/10cmx10cm

Special Stitches

Tunisian Simple Stitch - TSS: Forward: Insert hook in st indicated (second ch from hook or next vertical bar), yo, pull up lp.
Reverse: yo, pull through first lp on hook; * [yo, pull through 2 lps] repeat from * all sts across until remain with 1 lp on hook.

Tunisian Double Twisted Stitch - TDTS: Forward: yo, insert hook in indicated vertical bar from left to right, pull up lp, yo, pull through 2 lps.
Reverse: same as TSS.

Tunisian Double Stitch - TDS: Forward: yo, insert hook in indicated vertical bar from right to left, pull up lp, yo, pull through 2 lps.
Reverse: same as TSS

Tunisian Extended Stitch - TES: Forward: insert hook in indicated vertical bar, pull up lp, ch 1.
Reverse: same as TSS

Bind off - BO: Forward: * [Insert hook in next vertical bar and upper horizontal bar, pull up lp through lp on hook], repeat from * all sts across remaining last st. Insert hook in last vertical bar, pull up lp through lp on hook.

BODY
With Tunisian crochet hook, ch 28.
Row 1: Work TSS in second ch from hook and in all ch across.
Row 2: Ch 1 (only in first st), work TDTS in second st and all across until remain 1 st, 1TDS in last st.
Row 3: Ch 1 (only in first st), work TDS in second st and all sts across.
Row 4: Ch 1 (only in first st), work TES in second st and all sts across.

Work row 2, 3 and 4 in that order until obtain 72 rows.
Row 73: BO, remaining with last st on hook.

TRIM
Switch to crochet hook,
Row A: [ch 3, sk 2 sts, sc in next st] 9 times.
Row B: Ch3, sc in ch space of row bellow, [ch 5, sc in ch space of row bellow] 8 times, ch 3, sl st in last st. Fasten off. Weave in end.
Repeat rows A-B in the other short side of work. Fasten off. Weave in end.

Copyright © 2008 by AG mode
Pattern is granted for your own personal use only, And not to be used for commercial/retail purposes. Please, do not share, trade, sell, or distribute this file. I appreciate and thank you for complying with these terms.

Monterey is so lonely off the coast of California, without another sea otter's hand to hold. Wouldn't you like to make a friend for him?

Color A: 95 yd 4/worsted-weight yarn
Color B: 95 yd eyelash yarn
Color C: Scrap 4/worsted-weight yarn
Color D: Scrap 4/worsted-weight yarn
Size F-5 (3.75 mm) crochet hook
2 15-mm amigurumi eyes
Polyester fiberfill or stuffing of choice
Yarn needle
Stitch markers

6.5" tall.

Not needed.

http://crochetkitten.com/files/Monterey.pdf

Dance is about beauty, and now your dance accessories can be beautiful, too! Not only is this bag stylish, it has plenty of room for shoes, water, and change of clothes!

400 yd 5/bulky weight yarn
Size J-10 (6.0 mm) crochet hook
Yarn needle
1 yd fabric for lining
Sewing thread in coordinating color
Sewing needle

22” wide by 22” high.

Not needed.

http://crochetkitten.com/files/Dancer_s_Sling_Bag.pdf