This rockin' baby blankie is perfectly cozy for the little star in your life!

Color A: 475 yd (preemie size) or 1275 yd (baby size) 5/bulky weight yarn
Color B: 250 yd (preemie size) or 650 yd (baby size) 5/bulky weight yarn
Color C: 175 yd (preemie size) or 425 yd (baby size) 5/bulky weight yarn
Size J-10 (6.0 mm) crochet hook
Yarn needle

22” x 22” (preemie), 36” x 36” (baby)

Not necessary.

1. Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. To avoid confusion, it may be helpful to circle the numbers corresponding to your size before beginning this project. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

2. Graph is worked in intarsia, with unused colors carried on wrong side of work throughout.

http://www.crochetkitten.com/files/Rock-a-Star_Baby_Blankie.pdf

I've been tossing this idea about for a while and I finally did it.
It took me all of 2 hours to make two of these and write the pattern.
I love the bullion st and placing it in this position on the neck warmer makes it look like a big flower.
Don't worry the pattern is all in one and very simple to make.
I am choosing to hide the buttons from view as not to spoil the bullion effect.
I am sure there will be more varieties of this one, such as colour effects a larger hole in the centre of the flower to accommodate a very nice centre peice button and the idea's go on and on.

Bullion St. Neckwarmer/Scarflette/Scarf

Materials: 12 ply yarn (worsted weight) less than 50 gms
5.00 mm hook (H/8)
thicker version 16 ply yarn (bulky weight)
6.00 mm hook (J/10)

N/A

Special Stitches: Bullion st, yarn over hook 5 times, insert hook into st, pull up a loop pull through all 6 loops on hook. BLO = work stitch into the back loop only, of st indicated DC = Yarn over hook, insert hook into st, pull up a loop, yarn over hook, pull through 2 st’s, yarn over hook and pull through 2 st’s again. Sc= Insert hook into st, pull up a loop, yarn over hook and pull through both loops on hook.

Begin.
Ch 4, sl st to first chain to form a ring

Ch 3, 10 dc into ring, sl st into first dc to join (not ch 3)

Ch 1, 1 sc in same place as join, ch 2, 1 sc in next dc, *ch 2, 1 sc in next dc*, repeat to end, ch 2 and sl st into first sc of this round

Ch 3, *1 bullion st into ch 2 space, 1 bullion st into sc st*, repeat to final ch 2 space, sl st to top of ch3

Ch 3, work 2 dc in space between ch 3 and 1 bullion st, work 2 dc in next space between the bullion st’s, work 2 dc in next 3 spaces between bullion st’s, ( 1 x ch 3 and 10 x dc in total) ch 3 and turn

Pattern Rows
Work 1 dc in very first dc, work 1 dc in each dc across, do not dc in end ch 3 of previous row, ch 1 and turn (10 dc and ch 3 turning ch)

Row 1 of pattern. Working the back loops only, work 1 sc in each dc across (ignore ch 3 turning ch), (=10 sc) ch 3 and turn

Row 2 of pattern. Work 1 dc in very first dc, work 1 dc in each sc across, ch 1 and turn (10 dc and ch 3 turning ch)

Repeat row 1 and row 2, 12 more times, (24 more rows of pattern) ending with a dc row, then sl st across 10 dc and fasten off

Button Placement
Place buttons beneath circular bullion to hide from view. The buttons will do up nicely in a dc.

To make a scarf
Using this pattern to make a scarf can be done easily by making 2 of the above, omitting the sl st ending and ending one side with a sc row, then join together. Make them as long as you need.

Saranac neck warmer

12 ply yarn (worsted weight) 1 x 50gm ball
5.00 mm hook (H/8)
Button or buttons
American abbreviations used

Adult

Not required

Special Instructions
Saranac stitch= 1st row slip st (slip stitch loosely through out pattern)
2nd row hdc through both loops
3rd row slip st in back loops only
row 2 and row 3 form the Saranac pattern
Worked width ways, ending ch 1 is turning ch only

Either side of this garment can be used as the front side.
Neck warmer can be made longer if required.
Button placement is optional, I made a small chain on one side to hook onto the button on the other side.

More pictures on my blog.
http://cats-rockin-crochet.blogspot.com/2008/02/saranac-neck-warmer.html

Ch 20
1. sl st in 2nd chain from hook and in each ch across, ch 1 turn
2. 1 hdc in first sl st and in each sl st across, ch 1 turn (19 hdc)
3. sl st in back loops of first and next 17 hdc across, ch 1 turn
4. 1 hdc in both loops of first sl st and in each sl st across, ch 1 turn (18 hdc)
5. sl st in back loops of first and next 16 hdc across, ch 1 turn
6. repeat row 4 (17 hdc)
7. sl st in back loops of first and next 15 hdc across, ch 1 turn
8. repeat row 4 (16 hdc)
9. sl st in back loops of first and next 14 hdc across, ch 1 turn
10. repeat row 4 (15 hdc)
11. sl st in back loops of first and next 13 hdc across, ch 1 turn
12. repeat row 4 (14 hdc)
13. sl st in back loops of first and next 12 hdc across, ch 1 turn
14. repeat row 4 (13 hdc)
15. sl st in back loops of first and next 11 hdc across, ch 1 turn
16. repeat row 4 (12 hdc)
17. sl st in back loops of first and next 11 hdc across, ch 1 turn
18. repeat row 4 (12 hdc)
19. to 34 repeat rows 17 to 18
35. 1 sc in first st and in each st across, finish off.

You can use 1 large button or 2 or 3 smaller buttons. Button placement is entirely up to you. I folded down my flap and sewed a button on the flap it’s self and made a chain length to suit the button size for fastening.
Another option is to sew the buttons under the flap area so the opposite end of the neck warmer sits under the flap. Enjoy the pattern

This is a pattern I came up with, to protect my new toy... A Casio EXILIM digital Camera. I received it in the mail and didn't have a cover to protect it. I made my own.
The cozy is made of left over yarns in my stash.
It is a good gift idea and works up in less than half an hour.

Cascade 220 (Light Teal)
LionBrand Homespun (Black)

Approximate Length 4"
Approximate Width 3"

3 sc and 3 rows = 1" (approximately) in heavier yarn.

Crochet Hook Size: US K / 6.5 mm (For Homespun)
US D / 3.25 mm (For Cascade 220)

Abbreviations:
Single Chain (sc/ scs) (I directed a video to demonstrate the stitch which is available from you tube - left handed and right handed)
Half Double Crochet (hdc) (Video available here on you tube.)
Chain (ch)
Inches ( " )

I worked the cozy in two yarn weights Heavier (Color A - Homespun) and Lighter (Color B - Cascade)

(Note: The pattern can be adopted to fit any camera/ cellphone/ Mp3 music player etc simply by checking the dimensions of the object it is being made for and then increasing the base chain numbers accordingly.)

* With Color A and K hook ch 11, turn. (11th chain will count for turning.)
* SC in the second chain from hook, * sc across to the end (total 10 scs). Ch 1 turn
* Repeat from * till the piece is exactly double the width of the camera. (My camera is 3.5", so my rectangular piece measured 7"). Bind off A.
* Join the Color B in the last sc of the previous row. Fold the rectangular piece in half and start sc through both layers from this corner down to the sides (Both layers of the piece will be joined on the sides using this edge.) then the bottom and then the corner of the other side. We now have a nice edge around 3 sides of piece. Use 1ch or 2scs to turn corners.
* Now we will work on the open edges in the round. ch 1, 2 scs with B in each sc of A (Total 40 scs around.) Join in the first ch1 using slip stitch.
* * ch 2, hdc in each sc around. Join with slip st to the first ch2. (total 40scs around.)
* Repeat from * for 3 more rows.
* ch2, 3hdc in the next 3scs, 1ch and skip next sc, *4hdc in the next 4 scs, 1ch and skip next sc. Repeat from * to the end. Join with slip stitch to the first chain 2. Bind off. The holes created in the last row will be used for the closure string.

To make the closure string

* Take Color B, 4 times the actual length that will be required for the pouch edge leaving two ends of atleast 2-4" each.
* Fold the length of B in half and secure one end. (I put the folded end in one of my toes) and twist it between your palms.
* Once the half length is twisted hold both ends together (thus resulting in another half fold of the already half length) and free the other end. The yarn will self twist to form a nice cord.
* Now thread this cord through the holes created in the last row of the cozy alternating drawing direction. (From outside to inside once and visa versa till the end.)
* Join the loose ends together with a knot to form a loop.

Being from the Jersey Shore, I spent many summer days at the beach. Biking to
the beach was fine, but having a seat cover on the return ride home would have saved
me from a hot behind!

Yarn: 1 skein each of Rowan Cotton Rope in (Calypso) Color A, (Parma) Color B, and (Fruit Gum) Color C

2 skeins of Rowan Cotton Rope (White) Color D

Hook: US H/5.00mm, or size needed to obtain gauge

Fits standard adult bicycle seat (Pattern can be altered to fit child's bicycle seat)

16 sts and 16 rows = 4" in sc

Note: To change color, work last sc of color being used until 2 loops remain on hook. Then, yo with next color and draw through both loops. Drop the first color and continue working with the second color.

Tip #1: When changing colors, carry the tail of the first color through one stitch

Tip #2: Keep all yarn tails to the back of the work

Seat:

With Color A, ch 10

Row 1 (RS): Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn; 9 sc made

Rows 2 - 11: Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn; 9 sc made

Row 12: Inc in first sc, sc in each across to last sc, inc in last sc, ch 1, turn; 11 sc made

Note: All increases are worked in both the first and last st in stated row and are indicated on chart

Row 13: Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn; 11 sc made 

Row 14: Inc, sc in each across to last sc, inc, ch 1, turn; 13 sc made 

Row 15: 6 sc, 1 sc with Color B, 6 sc with Color A, ch 1, turn; 13 sc made

Row 16: Inc, 4 sc, 3 sc with Color B, 4 sc with Color A, inc, ch 1, turn; 15 sc made

Row 17: 5 sc, 5 sc with Color B, 5 sc with Color A, ch 1, turn; 15 sc made

Row 18: Inc, 3 sc, 3 sc with Color B, sc with Color C, 3 sc with Color B, 3 sc with Color A, inc, ch 1, turn; 17 sc made

Row 19: 4 sc, 3 sc with Color B, 3 sc with Color C, 3 sc with Color B, 4 sc with Color A, ch 1, turn; 17 sc made

Row 20: Inc, 2 sc, 3 sc with Color B, 5 sc with Color C, 3 sc with Color B, 2 sc with Color A, inc, ch 1, turn; 19 sc made

Row 21: 3 sc, 3 sc with Color B, 3 sc with Color C, sc with Color A, 3 sc with Color C, 3 sc with Color B, 3 sc with Color A, ch 1, turn; 19 sc made

Rows 22 - 34: Continue following chart, placing all increase sts at both beginning and ends of rows, and changing from one color to another while disguising yarn transitions.

Row 35: Dec, 4 sc, 11 sc with Color B, sc with Color A, 11 sc with Color B, 4 sc with Color A, dec, ch 1, turn; 33 sc made

Rows 36 - 43: Continue following chart, placing decrease sts at both beginning and ends of rows. Finish off and weave in all loose ends.

Side of Seat:

Rnd 1: With RS facing and using Color D, slip st to last st of Row 1, sc in each st across Row 1. Working along outer edge of seat cover, work 115 sc evenly spaced, placing more sts along wide curves, slip st to first st on round; 124 sc made

Rnd 2 - 5: Ch 3 (counts as first dc now and throughout), dc in each st around, slip to to first dc; 124 dc made

Drawstring Cord:

With Color C, ch 220. Weave loose ends back into ch. Beginning at bottom center of Rnd 5 dc sts, weave in and out, going under 3 dc and over 1 dc. Place on seat, tie, and tuck ties under seat cover.

So I was sitting in my room listening to music when I found this cool hot pink yarn I had bought over the summer in florida. It was super soft and stretchy. So i figured what the hell I'll make something out of this and viola! I made a pair of delicious looking hot pink fingerless gloves. It took me about an hour to make 2 of them. They work up pretty fast.

Size 6.5 K crochet hook
Any thick stretchy yarn (the yarn i used had no label so I cant be too specific about the type.)

5.5 inches long, 4 Inches wide. Since these gloves were made to stretch I'll say one size fits all. :-D

No specific gauge that i followed. I pretty much just went with however it came out.

This fingerless mitt is done clompletely in HDC (Half Double crochet) and worked back and forth instead of rounds. when the piece is the length you want you single crochet the sides together.

BLO=Back Loops only
FLO= Front loops only

Row 1:

Chain 29, HDC in 2nd ch from hook, Hdc across. Ch 2 turn.

Row 2: In BLO!

Hdc across. Ch 2, turn.

Row 3: In FLO!

Hdc across ch 2, turn.

Row 4-17:

alternate the hdc stitch in flo and blo.

(example: row 4 BLO, row 5 FLO etc.)

Or keep adding rows until you have them the length you want.

I wear a mediums in womens gloves and the gloves are supposed to be loose fitting.
And then Viola! you have now created easy fingerless gloves that won't take hours away from your day.

These would be great gifts!

I wanted to use this yarn and couldn't think of a project. But I found a pillow form laying around that I hadn't gotten around to using - so I made this pillow! I love the color changes on the yarn - and I love that Diamond Stitch!

2 Skeins Universal Yarn, Inc., Deluxe Chunky LP, 100% Wool, Color 01
13" x 13" Pillow Form
Size "K" Crochet Hook
Yarn Needle
Scrap coordinating yarn (for lace tie)

13" x 13"

3 ½ sc + 4 Rows = 1" (worked over sc)

The Diamond Stitch used in this pillow looks hard - but once you have worked a few repeats, you'll see how it's done and you'll soon be working without referring to the pattern notes.

To work a Front Post Treble Crochet (abbreviated FPtr): YO twice, insert hook from front to back around post of sc indicated, YO and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), (YO and draw through 2 loops on hook) 3 times.

Instructions
Ch 38.
Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn (37 ch)
Row 2 and 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn
Row 4 (Right Side): sc in first 2 sc, work FPtr around post of first sc on third row below, skip next 4 sc on third row below, work FPtr around post of next sc on third row below, * skip next 2 sc from last sc made, sc in next 4 sc, work FPtr around next sc on third row below, skip next 4 sc on third row below, work FPtr around next sc on third row below, repeat from * across to last 5 sc, skip next 2 sc from last sc made, sc in last 3 sc. Ch 1, turn.
Rows 5 - 7: sc in each sc across
Row 8: work FPtr around third sc on third row below, skip first sc, sc in next 4 sc, * work FPtr around next sc on third row below, skip next 4 sc on third row below, work FPtr around next sc on third row below, skip next 2 sc from last sc made, sc in next 4 sc; repeat from * across to last 2 sc, work FPtr around next sc on third row below, skip next sc from last sc made, sc in last sc.
Rows 9 - 11: sc in each sc across
Repeat Rows 4 -11 for Diamond Stitch Pattern.

Work until piece measures 27 ½" from beginning. I used a slip stitch to seam the beginning chain edge to the edge just finished. (I also ran out of the chunky yarn at this point. So I switched to Noro Silk Garden, #208, which happened to coordinate with the project yarn. Any yarn you have on hand that coordinates will work fine.)

Seam one side of pillow using coordinating scrap yarn and also using the slip stitch method.

For Lace Tie:
I didn't really want to mess with buttons on this, so I crocheted a chain about 30" long and used it to lace it down the sides of the remaining unseamed side. And tied a little bow at the bottom. That way, I can unlace it and hand-wash the pillow cover when needed. I folded the lace tie in half, with the open ends toward the bottom of the pillow, and the folded loop at the top of the pillow. With a yarn needle, I threaded one lace tie through the edge stitches all the way down, then I threaded the remaining tie on the opposite stitches all the way down. Cinch it tight and tie a bow!

The pill purse is a quick and easy way to organise that ever expanding handbag.Its a great way to have those necessary tablets hidden .I have to take quite alot of tablets for the rest of my life,wherever I go I have to have these with me. Fed up with searching for my pills in the bottom whatever handbag I was using I decided I'd make a pill purse . I now never leave home without it.

Yarn: any ply, I used aran weight 40g in total.
Hook; use appropiate for the yarn you are using .I used 5mm

Fastener;any one of these Brooch,pin, button
I used a crochet flower glued onto a brooch pin.

the size of your largest pill packet

Not important its a purse

The pattern:

http://heldasland.blogspot.com/2008/03/free-pill-purse.html

The pill purse is a quick and easy way to organise that ever expanding handbag.Its a great way to have those necessary tablets hidden .I have to take quite alot of tablets for the rest of my life,wherever I go I have to have these with me. Fed up with searching for my pills in the bottom whatever handbag I was using I decided I'd make a pill purse . I now never leave home without it.

Yarn: any ply, I used aran weight 40g in total.
Hook; use appropiate for the yarn you are using .I used 5mm

Fastener;any one of these Brooch,pin, button
I used a crochet flower glued onto a brooch pin.

the size of your largest pill packet

Not important its a purse

The pattern:

http://heldasland.blogspot.com/2008/03/free-pill-purse.html

I've made this tam beret last October, and i forgot to put the pattern here on Crochet me..
I want to share it 'cause i think it's very nice and cozy, and above all it's a quick and easy project!
Thanks for looking!

2 Ball Patagonia, "Ornaghi filati", (this is an Italian label)
(30% Alpaca, 15% Merino Wool, 40% Acrylique, 15% Polyamid)
50gr.= 45mt.

8mm hook

The diameter of the tam beret is approximately 24.5cm(9.6 in), with 14.5cm(5.7 in) diameter opening.It fits an adult woman.

8dc*10rows = 10*10cm

Terms:
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
dc2tog = work 2 double crochet together
sc = simple crochet
sl st = slip stitch

Beret:
Ch 3, join with sl st to form ring.
Rnd 1: ch 3 (count as dc), make 11 dc in ring.(12 dc)
Rnd 2: ch 3, 2 dc in each dc.(24 dc)
Rnd 3: ch 3, 2 dc in the same joining dc,*ch 2, skip 1 ch, 3 dc in next dc*, repeat from * around, ending with ch 2 and joining to first dc group.(12 dc group)
Rnd 4: ch 3, turn, 2 dc in next ch 2 space,*ch 2, 3 dc in next ch 2 space*, repeat from * around, ending with ch 2 and joining to first dc group.(12 dc group)
Rnd 5: repeat Rnd 4.
Rnd 6: ch 3, 1 dc in each next 2 dc,*1 dc in next ch 2 space, 3 dc in next 3 dc*, repeat from * around ending with 1 dc in last ch 2 space and joining to first dc.
Rnd 7: ch 3, 3 dc, dc2tog.,*4 dc, dc2tog.*, repeat from * around, joining to beg. ch3.
Rnd 8: ch 3, 2 dc, dc2tog.,*3 dc, dc2tog.*, repeat from * around, joining to beg. ch3.
Rnd 9: sc around, join with sl st to last sc.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.

My very good friend Jonathan never wanted me to make him anything which was hard for me as I love to knit/crochet things for people. FINALLY one day we went to my LYS and he picked out this yarn and said I could knit him a headband. So I did. Then he loved it so much he wanted matching armwarmers. So I made these armies up. Very easy and no seams (which I love).
It's summer here in NZ, but next winter he will be pretty stylie. They are very easy and very quick. And you make them to fit quite snug since I find crochet stretches.
Please let me know if you have any problems. I always just make stuff up as I go along, and this seems pretty straightforward to me, but it may not be!

Hummingbird Aires Fast Knitting 50g
4 skeins

custom fit - you decide the size

12 sc = 4" (10cm) I think

(Make 2)
-Ch34
-Sc into 3rd chain from hook
(Make 2)
-Sc across all chains (32 sc)
-Ch 2, turn. Sc into all sc.
-Repeat these rows until the rectangle is large enough to wrap around you arm with a snug fit.
-Last row, fold your rectangle so that the beginning row is in line with the last row. Work sc through both the first and the last row for 5 sc. Work 6-8 sc only on one row (up to you, this is for the thumb hole). On 7th or 9th, begin sc through both rows again. Sc through both rows until the end. Pull ball of yarn through loop to fasten off, but don’t cut yarn.
-At the cuff, pick a loop, pull yarn up and through (you are now working in the round at the cuff), chain 2. SC through loops around the edge until you reach the beginning of the round. Sl st. Ch2, turn. Sc back the other way to the beginning of the round. Sl st. Continue in this matter for 4 more rows (or however much longer you wnt to make it – if you go too far up the arm you will have to increase about 4 more sc evenly over the round to make room for the upper forearm). Fasten off. Weave in ends. Long armies with no seams!!

My very good friend Jonathan never wanted me to make him anything which was hard for me as I love to knit/crochet things for people. FINALLY one day we went to my LYS and he picked out this yarn and said I could knit him a headband. So I did. Then he loved it so much he wanted matching armwarmers. So I made these armies up. Very easy and no seams (which I love).
It's summer here in NZ, but next winter he will be pretty stylie. They are very easy and very quick. And you make them to fit quite snug since I find crochet stretches.
Please let me know if you have any problems. I always just make stuff up as I go along, and this seems pretty straightforward to me, but it may not be!

Hummingbird Aires Fast Knitting 50g
4 skeins

custom fit - you decide the size

12 sc = 4" (10cm) I think

-Ch34
-Sc into 3rd chain from hook
-Sc across all chains (32 sc)
-Ch 2, turn. Sc into all sc.
-Repeat these rows until the rectangle is large enough to wrap around you arm with a snug fit.
-Last row, fold your rectangle so that the beginning row is in line with the last row. Work sc through both the first and the last row for 5 sc. Work 6-8 sc only on one row (up to you, this is for the thumb hole). On 7th or 9th, begin sc through both rows again. Sc through both rows until the end. Pull ball of yarn through loop to fasten off, but don’t cut yarn.
-At the cuff, pick a loop, pull yarn up and through (you are now working in the round at the cuff), chain 2. SC through loops around the edge until you reach the beginning of the round. Sl st. Ch2, turn. Sc back the other way to the beginning of the round. Sl st. Continue in this matter for 4 more rows (or however much longer you wnt to make it – if you go too far up the arm you will have to increase about 4 more sc evenly over the round to make room for the upper forearm). Fasten off. Weave in ends. Long armies with no seams!!

These booties are perfect for a new baby. Their little feet are guaranteed to be warm. These are worked in the round from the sole up.

1 oz Red Heart Super Saver – Linen (or any tan colored worsted weight yarn)
Small amount of Yarn Bee Luscious – Ice (or any fluffy-not furry white yarn of 4 or 5 weight)
Small amount Red Heart Super Saver – White (or any white worsted weight yarn)
5mm hook
yarn needle

Newborn
Sole: 3 ½ inches
Height: approx. 3 ½ inches

Approx. 3 ½ stitches per inch
Approx. 3 rows per inch

Be sure to check stitch number when mentioned.

Using tan yarn, ch 8.

Rnd 1: hdc in 3rd ch, dc next 4, (6 dc) in last ch, working on other side of chain hdc next 4, (3 hdc) in last loop. Join to beg ch 2.

A very easy capelet, crocheted with an 8mm hook that makes you work fast.
I think it's a perfect friend's last minute gift for christmas, because you can do it in a day.
Thank you for looking!

8.00 mm hook
Ornaghi Filati Italy "Cashmere" [60% Merino Wool Superfine, 30% Polyamid, 10% Cashmere; 41 yds/37 mt per 50g ball]; color: Purple; 4 balls.

i've made it for myself, and i'm a small. But i think it will fit a medium too because it's smooth on the shoulders.

two *3dc,ch2*= 11.5cm * 4 rows=10cm

Ch 40, sl st to form ring, careful not to twist the ch.