This holder is created with double crochet (Uk). Turn those leftovers into something practical , quick and easy.

Yarn ; 20g-30g of any yarn . I used yarn from the knittery shade cherries its sock yarn
Hook; Any hook appropiate to the yarn I used 3.5mm.
1 Button.

length 7inches
width 4 inch

none.

Free yourself from gauge,use whatever yarn and hook as long as you create a stiff fabric.

Fed up wth searching for that hook when out and about make a crochet holder to fit in your handbag, hook stitch markers ,scissors, whatever.

Use any leftover yarn, make loads and give to your crocheting friend, have one in every colour.

Easy pattern quick and easy.

http://heldasland.blogspot.com/2008/04/crochet-needle-holder.html

I discovered yesterday that inspiration can come from anywhere, at any time.

Picture the setting: you're sitting on your bum after a hard day's work, waiting for the chicken to boil down into stock, and you're watching a bit of "The Bionic Woman" from a couple weeks ago. Your hands start to itch, then twitch, and then you realise: you are a crocheter, you MUST crochet. Well, it's about 10:30 at night, and you know that if you stay up past 11, you won't get enough sleep, plus there's every chance that your gorgeous two-year-old son will want you to get up and play with him at 6 am. So what do you do? Start crocheting, knowing that it will keep you up late, or do you ignore the urges and try to take your mind off it with a Coke float and more "Bionic Woman"?

Well, I can tell you what I did...

Both! I poured myself a lovely Coke float, grabbed the new skein of red Pure Gold DK that I've had lying around, and I decided to make some little cherries with smiley faces because they're just so DARNED cute.

A small amount of red yarn
A small amount of green yarn
A small amount of black yarn
Crochet hook, the smallest size you can use that won't split your yarn when you work with it
Tapestry needle

The cherries themselves will be about 3/4" tall if you use the same yarn I did (DK) and the same size hook (2.50mm). Obviously, they will vary somewhat with your choice of yarn/hook.

Gauge is not used in this pattern; it will vary depending on the yarn and hook you use.

Abbreviations used
sc: single crochet
st: stitch
inc: increase
invdec: invisible decrease

If there is anything you don't understand in this pattern, please comment below and I'll respond to you personally.

Cherries
The cherries are worked in spiral rounds. You should use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round, so you don't lose your place.

With red yarn, make a ring, work 6 sc into ring. (6 st)

Rnd 1: 2 sc in each st around. (12)
Rnds 2-3: inc 3, evenly spaced. (18 st at the end of rnd 3)
Rnd 4: work even. (18)
Rnd 5: invdec 6, evenly spaced. (12)

Now embroider a face onto the cherry using black yarn, using the photo as a guide. I used French knots for the eyes and back-stitching for the mouth.

Leaves
Make two leaves per cherry.

With green yarn, ch 5. Now work into the back loops of the ch: sc into 2nd ch from hook, then hdc in the next st, dc in the next st. 5 sc in the last stitch and turn to work in the front "v" loops of the foundation chain: dc in the next st, hdc in the next st, sc in the final st. Sl st into the last ch of the foundation chain (the one immediately before you made your first sc). Finish off and weave in ends.

Stems
For each stem, cut a length of green yarn about 4 times the length you want your stems to end up. To be safe, I used lengths about 2 feet long and cut them down as necessary once I was finished assembling!

To make the stem, thread the yarn onto a tapestry needle and through the "fat" end of one leaf, then through the top of the cherry (outside to inside). Then thread the yarn back out the top of the cherry and through the fat end of the other leaf. Tie a square knot in the yarn; this will make the leaves be securely attached. Finally, use the two halves of your length of yarn to make a twisted cord, and tie off.

Final assembly
To finish your cherries, stuff each one firmly, and close the holes by finishing off your red yarn, then threading the end onto a tapestry needle. Thread the yarn through the front loop only of each stitch around the hole, and pull tight; the hole will close naturally. Weave in the ends.

Oh, yeah, and don't forget to grin stupidly when examining your final product :)

http://noisypitta.blogspot.com

I was looking at a bag of yarn my grandmother gave me, filled with 25 rolls of yarn in all sorts of colors. I shoved my hand in and pulled out a bright red yarn and decided that I needed a matching scarf for a hat I made about 2 months ago in the same color. I introduce to you the CHECKERBOARD SCARF! :-D
I asked my sister to model the scarf and with that she pressed it against her stomach so you can see the stitch better. The flash on my camera was making it very hard to see the stitch.

Size K 6.5 mm Boye hook
2 balls of red yarn
A good memory! and some patience =].

Any size you want this scarf is versatile!

no specific gauge feel free to expand.

Checkerboard stitch. Ch 24+3 as your turning chain. DC in 2nd ch from hook (DO NOT DC IN THE ADDED 3!!!) Dc in next 2 chs (you should have 3 DC's now) *ch 2, skip 2, dc in next 3 sts. Repeat from *.

Ch 24 (or any multiple of six, but make sure to add 3 as ur turning chain. It is very important that you remember this!

Row 1: dc in next 3, ch 2, skip 2. repeat to end, ch 3 turn.
Row 2:skip first dc, dc in 2nd dc, 2 DC IN ch 2 sp(this gives you 3 dc's.) repeat to end.
*MAKE SURE YOU DOUBLE CROCHET IN THE CH 2 SPACES AND NOT THE CHAINS ITSELF. THIS WILL GIVE THE SCARF AN ODD SHAPE!*
repeat row 2 until scarf is desired length. finish off & weave in ends.

If you have any questions about this pattern please contact me and I will try to explain it better to the best of my ability.

On one end of my scarf I crocheted a heart and stitched it on. to get the heart pattern I used go to this website: http://www.karpstyles.com/crochet/heart1.html I only used the heart directions i didnt try the granny square.

Enjoy!

So early todayI was browsing some stitches and I came along the popcorn stitch pattern. What was intended to be a scarf turned into a cute funky bracelet! I plan on making a matching Scarf and hat once I get more of this specific type yarn. This bracelet is fun and colorful!

Size 5.5 Boye crochet hook
Yarn type : Easy crafts Acrylic yarn in Girlie Print. To preview their yarns visit http://www.tmayarn.com

Depending on the type of yarn you use the size will vary.

No specific gauge

Popcorn Stitch:Ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, *in next sc [yo and draw up a lp] 5 times, yo and draw through all 5 lps on hook (Popcorn made), 1 sc in each of next 2 sc; rep from * across. Turn.
Single crochet

Ch 33 or size appropriate for your wrist. My wrist is considerably small.

Row 1:

Sc in 2nd chain from hook. Ch 1 turn.

Row 2:

Sc in 1st stitch, *Popcorn stitch in next ch, sc in next 2 chs Repeat from *.

Row 3:

Sc across. When you get to the end of the third row Ch 10 and Join to your starting row. (This will make a button hole.)
Get a cool button, sew it on to your project and viola! your circus popcorn bracelet is done :-D.

This is the first time I have written down a pattern, for the scarf which just “ happened “ to strike me as a new and interesting pattern, rather a possibility for a scarf, while I was crocheting a pair of baby socks.I crocheted the "possibility" into a real scarf, soon after I completed the socks. I posted the photo of the completed scarf in Flickr, where I go by the name Rufaro crafty and a lot of members showed interest.
The best thing about this scarf is, being reversible you can team it up with more outfits.
I am no designer and naturally not a pattern writer, but I am making an effort!!

I used about 130 gm of 4-ply yarn , in dark (Colour A) and light brown (Colour B ) put together. I made the first and last rows in dark brown, so I must have used a little bit more of that.
The thickness of yarn, colour and hook size are your choice, but don't make with too thin a yarn, you may not get the desired effect

The completed scarf was 5” wide and 72” long ( lost patience to make it any wider  ).

I used a 4 mm. hook. But your hook size will depend on the yarn used by you.

Important - All sc are in back loop.

Colour A - Dark Brown
Colour B - Light Brown

Make a long string of chains in Colour A , keeping a 4" long tail in the beginning (this will be part of the fringe ). The string of chs should be as long as you want the scarf to be, I made 214 chs..

1st row - sc in the 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch till end,
Fasten off , keeping a 4" long tail for the fringe. Turn work.

2nd row - Attach Colour B leaving a 4" long tail, sc in all sc of 1st row till end ( through back loop only), Fasten off , keeping a 4" long tail for the fringe .Turn work.

3rd row - Attach Colour A leaving a 4" long tail, sc in all sc of previous row till end( through back loop only), Fasten off , keeping a 4" long tail for the fringe.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows, alternating between Colours A and B, till you reach the desired width of the scarf.

Basically all right side rows are in one colour and the wrong side rows in another,the sc being through back loop , you get one side in dark colour and the other in light, making the scarf reversible.

You may add additional fringes in alternate colours at the end, if the fringe looks too scanty. I did.

In case I've missed out on anything please. point it out, so that I can suitably modify the pattern. I would also request for giving your opinion about the scarf, once you have made one.
This scarf pattern was test crocheted by my dear friend JoAnn McLean, of Ontario, Canada, who also helped me by going through the pattern and suggesting suitable changes. Here is the scarf she made,

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=863028887&context=set-7215759429...

It is quite possible that, people have been making this pattern since ages, but then I did not make it by looking up a pattern, so it remains MY Reversible Scarf :~)))

Farmers Market Bag, originally published in "The Green Issue" of Knit.1 Magazine (www.knit1mag.com ).

3 balls in Kelly Green of Craft by Vickie Howell Collection, 50 gr balls, each approx 125 m
(35% Milk Fiber / 65% Organic Cotton)

US size G & H crochet hooks OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE

Tapestry Needle

15”/38cm Long (w/o handles) x 16”/40.5cm (at bottom)

20 sc and 20 sc rows= 4”/10cm, using smaller hook

Top Band:
Using smaller hook, ch 95. Join, taking care not to twist. Place marker for end of rnd.
Next rnd: Sc in every stitch around. Join rnd with a sl st.
Repeat last row 4 more times.

Adorn your spooky tree with these Boo-treelicious ghost ornaments!

(Originally published as a Free Pattern of the Month on www.vickiehowell.blogspot.com)

MATERIALS:
1 ball Vickie Howell Collection's CRAFT in color: Carol (white)
1 US "E" (4.00mm) crochet hook
Tapestry needle
6, 1 1/2" Styrofoam balls
Scraps of black craft felt
Craft glue and white sewing pin (Ghost #3 only)
Spooky Tree (found at craft stores)

About 3" Tall

3 1/2 sts per inch in SC

Ghost #1 (Make 2)
Ch 2, join round with a sl st.
Rnd 1: Ch1, sc [6 times] in center. Join with a sl st. (7 sts)

I made it for my daughter when she was 17, She's now 27!
(Designed by me, Jan. 1991)

For Hooded Scarf: 4 x 50 gm. balls of variegated knitting worsted yarn, or color of choice. 4 mm hook, old pillowcase or fabric for lining.

For Headband:1 50 gm ball of knitting worsted yarn, 4 mm hook.

Hood: 10 inches x 48 inches
Headband: 9" x 3"

none

Hood:
-Chain 45.
-Dc in 2 ch from hook, and in each ch to end. ch 2 and turn.
-Repeat for 110 rows.

I like crocheting socks from the toe-up. You can try them on as you go and adjust the calf length to the amount of yarn remaining. I also like to crochet the heel as I go; no after-thoughts for me. The custom fit is better and you’re finished when the cuff is done. I designed this pattern so I could crochet socks my way – toe up in one piece with a gusseted heel.

• MC: Gedifra Fashion Trend Sportivoe (70% superwash wool, 23% polyamid, 7% polyester, 200m/50g), color – 5768, 2 balls per pair
• Substitute: About 400m of any sock yarn  
• US F/3.75mm hook for body of sock
• US E /3.5mm hook for cuff
• Yarn needle
• Stitch markers

S [M, L]

Circumference of foot: 8 [8.75,9.5] inches

Length: to fit

20 esc / 20 rows = 4 inches

Gauge is measured over extended single crochet. Row gauge is not terribly important since you will crochet the sock to fit a measured length. If you have trouble obtaining the specified stitch gauge, try following the directions for the next smaller or larger size to ensure a good fit.

Pattern is worked primarily in the round. Do not turn or join rounds unless directed otherwise.

Stitch markers are used to mark the increases in the toe section and then are not used again until you reach the ankle/heel area. Markers should be moved up in the same stitch in each round. Once you complete the toe, you can remove the markers, crochet in the round til you reach the ankle, and then replace them. Or move the markers up with each round if you prefer. It is helpful to use a distinct marker to mark the start of the round, to distinguish it from the mid-round marked stitch. I use 2 safety pins hooked together to mark the start of the round and single pins everywhere else.

For simplicity and symmetry, increases are always made in pairs, before and after each marked stitch. Increases are made by crocheting two stitches (either sc or esc as applicable) in the specified stitch.

When crocheting the first few rows of the heel, I sometimes find it difficult to distinguish between the heel stitches and the next unworked foot stitch. For this reason, I mark the first and last stitch of the heel as well as the next unworked foot stitch on both ends of the heel. While moving the markers can be a pain, it allows for mindless crocheting of the heel. After the first few rows, when the heel is established and it’s easier to tell the stitches apart, I dispense with the markers.

Special Stitch Patterns:

Extended single crochet (esc): Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through one loop, yarn over and pull through both loops. (Sort of like making a chain stitch at the beginning of your single crochet stitch.)

Fpdc & bpdc (front post double crochet & back post double crochet, respectively): See instructions here.

Toe

With MC and larger hook, ch 11.

Round 1: Sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across, continue sc up other side in free loops of chain (20 sc).

Rain is almost constant during the winter in the Pacific Northwest, and though most people who live here refuse to use an umbrella on a daily basis, there are times we have no choice. Last Christmas Eve was one of those times on Vancouver Island, BC: my husband and I were visiting Butchart Gardens’ light displays in the middle of a storm that knocked power out to 10,000 people on the other side of the island. After we had our walk in the pouring rain, we stopped in the café for some hot chocolate; as we waited in line to order I watched my umbrella leak all over the floor. I had terrible visions of people walking by and slipping on the water and breaking their tailbones or something. So these Tunisian crochet umbrella covers were borne on the way home that night.  

These brolly covers (brolly is Aussie slang for umbrella) are perfect to take with you on your commute, and when you’re finished you can slip your umbrella inside and the cotton will absorb the drips. Perfect for spring showers!

• Lily Sugar ‘n Cream (worsted weight cotton, 805 yards per 454 grams), 1 skein each of black, light brown, yellow, light blue, dark blue, pink, purple, red
• US F (3.75mm) Tunisian crochet hook
• US F (3.75mm) crochet hook (for base circle & top edge)
• Yarn needle

Cover A fits compact, folding umbrellas that are 11” long when closed.

Cover B fits golf umbrellas that are 37” long when closed.

8 Tss / 6 rows = 1.5 inches

Measure your umbrella before beginning.  You may wish to add or omit a few rows to the top of the cover so it will fit your umbrella better.

If your golf umbrella has a very pointy end, you may want to cut a circle of felt from an old felting swatch (recycle!) or crochet a second circle to attach to the inside bottom of the tube so the pointy end of the umbrella can't poke through.

Special Stitch Pattern

Tunisian Simple Stitch (Tss): See the great tutorial here.

Always change color on a forward pass for this project. You can let the unused color run behind your work, or for spaces where you will carry the yarn for more than an inch or two, make a few small balls of yarn for each color and use them instead.

On a return pass that uses more than one color, the second loop from the end of your hook is the color you want to pull through the two loops.

To increase at the beginning of a forward pass, insert your hook between the first and second stitches and draw up a loop,insert your hook in the second stitch as usual and draw up a loop.  Continue as normal. To increase at the end of a forward pass, insert your hook between the second-to-last and last stitches and draw up a loop, insert your hook in the last stitch as usual and draw up a loop. Continue as normal.

Cover A: Compact Umbrella

With yellow cotton and regular hook, work 6 sc into magic loop and pull loop closed.

You might question the idea of a crocheted apron, but this is not your mother’s apron!  This is an apron with style that reaches beyond the kitchen. You can wear the piece apron-style with it open in the back or you can wear it open in the front like a jumper. Also, it can be worn as a fashion statement, or it can be worn for practical purposes as a “true” apron in the kitchen or garden. Finally, you can wear this garment year round! Wear it in the winter with a sweater under it or with a tank in the summer.

An added bonus is that this apron design supports a sustainable environment. I chose to use hemp, which is one of the most sustainable fibers. According to information from Lanaknits Designs Hemp for Knitting, hemp is one of the strongest and longest-lasting fibers. The plant (cannabis sativa) that hemp comes from is one of the world’s best renewable resources. It can grow just about anywhere, including on land that is otherwise unusable for other crops. Interestingly, hemp does not require pesticides or herbicides because insects do not like it, and it grows even more rapidly than weeds.

This is a simple piece to crochet. It includes only a few different crochet stitches and easy color changes. The wrap style is practical for a tunic-length garment as you can sit down and not worry about quickly stretching out a hand-crocheted item.

• MC: Hemp for Knitting, All Hemp 6, DK Weight, 100% hemp, 165yd/150 m per 100g/3.5 oz.,  color – Avocado, 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) skeins
• CC: Hemp for Knitting, All Hemp 6, DK Weight, 100% hemp, 165yd/150 m per 100g/3.5 oz.,  color – Sprout, 1 skein
• US G/6 (4mm) crochet hook
• Darning yarn needle
• Stitch markers
• 2 – 0.75” (2cm) buttons
• Sewing thread to match chosen buttons

This apron is designed to be fitted with little ease, but it must be able to be “wrapped” over your bust and underarm area. Measure directly under your arms and bust. Take the largest measurement of the two, and use this measurement to decide which size to make.  

Sizes: XS [S, M, L, XL]

Chest (to fit the following chest sizes): 28 [32, 36, 40, 44]” /70 (80, 90,100,110) cm

Actual Finished Measurements: 39 (44, 49, 54, 59) includes 11 (12, 13, 14, 15)” overlap/ 97.5 (110,122.5,135,147.5) cm includes 27.5 (30, 32.5, 35, 37.5) cm overlap

Total Length (including straps): 29 (31, 32, 33, 34)” / 72.5 (77.5, 80, 82.5, 85) cm

16 sts/9 rows of dc = 4” (10cm)

The apron is crocheted in three easy steps:

1. First, a rectangular piece is crocheted side to side primarily in double crochet from just over the bust to the midthigh. This piece forms the main body of the garment. The main body is crocheted from the right center back across the front to the left center back.  
2. Next, stitches are picked up from the top edge of the main piece. These stitches are worked in half double crochet for several rows to form a border at the top of the bust.
3. Finally, thick straps are created by continuing to crochet from the front over the shoulders to the back. There is an overlap in the back to create the “wrap”, and the straps are secured with buttons.  

Right side rows begin at the top edge, or bust, of the apron. Wrong side rows begin at the bottom edge, or hem, of the apron.

Turning chain does not count as a stitch.

Special Stitch Pattern:

Subtle waist shaping is incorporated with several inch-long darts in the waist area in four strategic places. These darts are created by changing the stitch pattern in the middle of the row from double crochet to single and half double crochet.

Main Body

Begin at Right Center Back

I love the moon and the stars. Any time we’re out after dark (and it’s dark enough to see them – darn you, light pollution) I love to stop and identify constellations, planets, the current phase of the moon, or whatever else is there to see. My husband is very tolerant of this. At any rate, I was in the middle of making scads of things for my new baby when I realized that I had a few celestial-themed pieces for him, and wouldn’t a little crescent moon and star just go perfectly with them? Of course they would.

So here they are, simply crocheted in a pleasingly soft baby yarn. For those looking for something a little different, the pattern could be worked in worsted weight yarn for something a little larger, or you could work the star in a larger hook for a softer fabric and enlarge it to make a cute star-shaped afghan. I hope you enjoy them!

• Red Heart Soft Baby (575 yd/525 m per 7 oz/198 g skein) in Powder Yellow; approx. 1 ¾ oz/132 yds/121 m for Star, approx. 2 oz/165 yds/151 m for Moon
• F/5 hook (3.75mm)
• Stuffing
• Stitch markers
• Yarn needle

Star – 7.5"/19 cm tall
Moon – 10.5"/27 cm tall

Gauge is unimportant in this pattern.

Special Stitches

sc3tog = Draw up a loop through each of the next three stitches. Yarn over, and pull through all four loops on hook.

Star (make 2)

Note: Do not join rounds unless indicated. To help keep track of rounds, place a stitch marker in the first stitch of the round to mark the beginning of the round.

I am about to divulge my secret method of making top-down hats. The pattern here uses a DK weight alpaca, but you can use my secret method to crochet a hat from any kind of yarn and for any size head. You don't have to confine yourself to working in sc, either. You can try all sorts of stitches and stitch patterns once you get the hang of it. For those of you who are nervous about working without a pattern, relax. It's not as tricky and inflexible as you think. I used the same yarn in this pattern as I used in Flappy, but I didn't peek at the other pattern when I wrote this one. If you compare this pattern to the Top O' the Hat section from Flappy, you will notice that there are a few minor differences between the patterns. This doesn't mean I made a mistake making this hat, it just means that there's some flexibility with pattern-writing.

There are three ways I start top-down hats:  

• Method 1.  Ch 2.  Work X sts into first ch.
• Method 2.  Ch X, sl st in first ch to form ring. Work X sts into ring.  
• Method 3.  Make an adjustable loop. Work X sts into the loop, pull tail to tighten.

The second part of the hat is the increase section, which is adapted from the method of crocheting a disc in my favourite book, New Design in Crochet, by Clinton D. MacKenzie (Van Nostrand Reinhold Company, 1972).  The trick is to alternate rounds of increases (e.g., work 2 sc in each st around) with rows of regular stitches (e.g., sc in each st around) according to what looks best with your yarn, hook, tension, and gauge.  

At some point, you are going to stop working in a disc and start working your project into a hat shape. If you are lucky, your last round of increases will be the right size for your hat, but in many cases, you will have to space out your final round of increases (e.g., *work 2 sts in next st, sc in each of next X sts,* rep from * to * around; or *work 2 sts in each of next X sts, sc in next st,* rep from * to * around) in order to get the desired diameter. After that, work the hat in rows of regular stitches (e.g., sc in each st around) until your hat is the desired length. 

The last part of my secret method is the brim. If you're an absolute beginner, you don't need to do anything fancy, but the brim is a good place to practice new stitches, stitch patterns, and color changes. The brim in this pattern, "*sc-blo in next st, sc-tbl in next st,* rep from * to * around," alternates between front-loop and both-loop sc stitches. This produces a gentle ribbing effect that is more prominent on the reverse side (which you will see when the brim is folded up).

Now that I've explained my secret method, watch it in action.

• MC: 2 skeins Inca Cloud Artesano Alpaca (100% Alpaca, 131 yds/120m per 50g skein) color 2285 (electric blue) or approximately 260 yards/240m of any DK weight alpaca
• US F / 3.75mm hook
• Stitch marker (I find a dangle earring works well in lieu of a proper stitch marker)

Wee Noggin - 17.5"/45 cm circumference, 7.75"/20 cm brim-to-top

Normal Noggin - 22"/56 cm circumference, 9"/23 cm brim-to-top

Big Noggin - 26.5"/67 cm circumference, 10.25"/26 cm brim-to-top

19 sts x 24 rounds of sc = 4"(10 cm)

Special stitches

sc-blo: single-crochet, back-loop only (instead of working the sc through both loops, work the sc through the back-loop of the stitch).

sc-tbl: single-crochet, through both loops.  This is just a regular sc, but it is used to eliminate confusion when alternating between sc-blo and sc.

The Hat

All sizes

Make a

I've always had a thing for fingerless gloves and wrist warmers. When I was a little kid, I always wanted to cut the fingertips off my gloves so I could be like Bob Cratchit from Dickens's A Christmas Carol, but my mom wouldn't let me. Years later, I cut the fingertips off the first pair of gloves I bought in college. I've seen a lot of knitting patterns for wrist warmers, but I haven't seen many crocheted wrist warmers so I thought I'd make these!

Although this pattern is done in Artesano Alpaca, it is easily adaptable to other yarns and is a great way to use up scrap yarns and one-skein impulse purchases.

• MC:  1 skein Inca Cloud Artesano Alpaca (100% Alpaca, 131 yds/120m per 50g skein): color #002 (brown), or approximately 131 yards/120m of any DK weight alpaca
•  CC1 and CC2:  1/2 skein each of Inca Cloud Artesano Alpaca (100% Alpaca, 131 yds/120m per 50g skein): color #402 (olive green) and color #71 (burnt orange) or approximately 131 yards/120m of any DK weight alpaca or scrap yarn
• US F/5 (3.75 mm) hook
• Yarn needle

Wee Wristies: (will fit children and people with small hands, like me)
Normal Wristies: (will fit average-sized wrists)
Big Wristies: (for big people)

The pattern is written for Wee Wristies with changes for Normal Wristies and Big Wristies written in parentheses.

19 sts x 24 rounds of sc = 4" (10 cm)

Fpdc = front post double crochet

The Wrist-bit

With MC, ch 26 (30, 34), sl st in first ch to form ring.  

Round 1.  Ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc in each st around, sl st in 2nd ch of ch-2 to close ring. (26 [30, 34] dc)

Round 2.  Ch 1 (counts as first sc), *fpdc around next dc of previous row, sc in next st,*  rep from * to * around, ending fpdc around last dc of previous row,  sl st in first ch to close ring.  

Round 3. With CC1, ch 1 (counts as first sc), *fpdc around post of next fpdc, sc in next st,*  rep from * to * around, ending fpdc around post of next fpdc,  sl st in first ch to close ring.

Round 4.  Repeat Round 3 in MC.  

Round 5.  Repeat Round 3 in CC2.  

Round 6.  Repeat Round 3 in CC1.  

Round 7.  Repeat Round 3 in CC2.  

Round 8.  Repeat Round 3 in MC.  

Round 9.  Repeat Round 3 in CC1.  

Rounds 10-11.  Repeat Round 3 in MC.  

The Thumb-Hole-bit

This section is worked flat instead of in the round.  

Row 1.  Ch 1 (counts as sc), turn, sc in each st to end.  Do not join in first ch.  

Repeat Row 1 until work measures 2.5" (3", 3") or desired length.  

Top O' the Mitt

Round 1: Sl st in first ch of row to join, ch 1, sc in each st around.

Repeat Round 1 for 4 (5, 6) more rounds, ending with sc in first ch, sl st in following stitch.  Fasten off.  

Finishing

Using yarn  needle, weave in all ends.

Crocheted tiers of luxurious, alpaca scallops trimmed with carved, bone beads and wooden handles makes for a bag good for any occasion.

• Henry’s Attic Andee (50% superfine alpaca/50% merino wool; 500yds per 8oz), 2 hanks
• US G/6 (4 mm) crochet hook
• (25) 8 mm carved bone beads
• Two 13” wooden purse handles
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Optional 1/2 yard of lining; needle and thread to match lining

Kristin has made an Alpaca Beaded Handbag kit available here.

13” (33 cm) long, 13.5” (34 cm) wide (not including handles)

18 sts x 14 rows of sc = 4" (10 cm)
16 sts x 8 rows of dc = 4" (10 cm)

Tier (make 5)

Ch 8 (counts as ch 5, dc), dc in 4th chain from hook and in each st across, turn. (6 sts)