Hemp is great for season-less projects, warm in the winter, cool in the summer. This scarf works up quick in blocks of color and the hemp gets softer the more you wash it!

-1 skein each of two different colors
Hemp For Knitting allhemp3
100% long hemp fiber, 165yds per skein
MC = aubergine, color 27
CC = sprout, color 19

-crochet hook US F (3.75mm)

55" long x 1.75" wide

gauge: 6 sc = 1"
not crucial

Note: When changing colors, just tie a double knot with both yarns, leaving a 2" tail. This will give the scarf the tails shown in the photo along the long edge.

For a wider or longer scarf, add more stitches in the beginning chain and work more rows!

-with MC, ch 13, work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each to beg (10dc)
-ch 2, turn, 1 hdc in each across
-ch 3, turn, 1 dc in each across
-join CC, ch 3, turn, 1 dc in each across

A week or so ago my lovely kitten Rogetts reminded me that every once in a while kitties need a new toy. Or they might riffle through your purse, steal you headphones out and pull the insulation off while leaving a big mess in at least 3 rooms of your house. Oh well I reward the little brat with a new set of toys made that day before she could find anything else to destroy.

I had been thinking about making toys for a while now and had been doing some research on the way the cats see and interact with the world. Cats do not see colors the same as people. Contrast and pattern are more important so I picked colors that contrasted with each other. I read that acrylic yarn taste bad to cats from some website of unknown credentials. But the idea stuck in my head and I have noticed that the cats only run off with wool and cotton. So they get cotton toys because it is so durable. Oh and the cats love to move there toys around so I topped it all off some monk cords on each end. The cats seem to love them. I am sure that catnip stuffing has something to do with it too.

• Small amount of two colors of cotton sport weight yarn (the photos is show with saucy sport yarn and sinfonia)
• size c crochet hook, or the smallest size hook you can use with your yarn (you want the stitches to be very tight so the cat nip does not fall out)
• yarn needle
• cotton balls
• catnip

1 inch

Gauge is not very important, just make sure that your stitches are tight enough to keep the catnip from falling out.

Your kitty helps with your yarn projects every day. Isn't it
time you reward her with her very own crocheted gift?

1 safety break-away cat collar with plastic snap closure in your cat’s size
Color A: 1 ball #3 crochet cotton
Color B: 1 ball #3 crochet cotton
Color C: 1 ball #3 crochet cotton
Size 2.75mm steel crochet hook
Yarn needle

Your cat's collar size.

None given.

Special Stitch: Picot.
When indicated, ch 3, sl st in first of these 3 ch. Picot complete.

http://www.crochetkitten.com/files/Ms_Kyle_s_Kitty_Collar.pdf

These shoes were made for walking--and showing off your crochet skill! This unique project works up quickly.

1 pair flip flops in your size
Color A: 1 ball #3 crochet cotton
Color B: 1 ball #3 crochet cotton
Color C: 1 ball #3 crochet cotton
Size 2.75mm steel crochet hook
Yarn needle

Your shoe size!

None given.

Special Stitch: Picot.
When indicated, ch 3, sl st in first of these 3 ch. Picot complete.

http://www.crochetkitten.com/files/Old_Town_Flip-Flops.pdf

When I was in high school, a push for environmental awareness was sparked by concern over the ozone layer. The US government managed to ban CFCs during this time and recycling programs sprouted up in towns all over the country. And then, well, some other crisis caught the media’s attention and it seems like over the last 15 years, the nation took the proverbial “one step back” after its “two steps forward.”

As attention turns once more en masse to the protection of the environment, it’s important to remember that arguably the most important of the “3 Rs” is not “recycle,” but “reduce.” When we keep resources out of the consumption cycle all together, we don’t have to worry about reusing or recycling them.

It’s with that in mind that I created this mesh tote, suitable for getting groceries home from the store and reducing the need to use store-provided bags. Reusable for years to come, you will prevent the need to recycle many shopping bags over the lifespan of the tote. And, in case you are somewhat of a shopaholic, the base of the bag is a filet-crochet rendering of the Reduction symbol to remind you to consider whether you really need something before you put it in the bag. (If you don’t want to lecture yourself while shopping, I’ve included a blank graph, too, so you can design your own bag bottom.)

The bag has a pocket on the front that can hold your keys and wallet while you shop. When you get home, you can fold the bag up and invert the pocket over it to store the bag until you need it again. (It reduces in size, too!) Also, the mesh construction of the bag makes it perfect for trips to the beach. Stow it in another bag and take it out when you are leaving to pack up sandy clothes, towels and seashells.

Want to increase your earth-friendly impact? Poke around in a thrift store for the ever-present wayward balls of crochet cotton and use those instead of buying new. See if you have some buttons lying around the house either on old clothes that are too damaged to be donated or from the replacement buttons that come with some shirts. The sample bag was made entirely out of thrift-store finds and cost less than $2 in materials. I love when good for the earth is good for your pocketbook, too!

• Copious amounts of scrap crochet cotton in size 10 (to be used double-stranded throughout), size 3, or size 5. Sample used the following:
• MC: Coats & Clark South Maid (100% mercerized cotton, 400 yds per ball), White, 2 balls required
• CC1 Coats & Clark Royale Classic Crochet Cotton (100% mercerized cotton, 350 yards per ball), 401-Orchid Pink, 2 balls required
• CC2: Small amount of size 10 mercerized cotton in brown (about 30-40 yards)
• US E / 3.5mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle
• 4 split ring stitch markers
• 4 half-inch buttons
• Straight pins

18”w x 4.5”d x 15”h (measurements given are taken when the bag is relaxed and exclude the handles)

19 dc / 9.5 rows = 4 inches

While gauge is technically unimportant in a bag such as this, it can have an effect on the size of buttons you can use to secure the pocket flap. So, if you don’t take time to check your gauge, be aware that you may need slightly larger or smaller buttons. And, of course, be sure to work at a consistent gauge throughout.

Any time there is a color change noted in the pattern (or, indeed, anywhere you like) you can switch from using double stranded size 10 crochet cotton to a single strand of size 3 or size 5. The bag was designed to use scraps of crochet cotton, so feel free to get creative. The only suggestion is to use one yarn continuously through the mesh portion of the bag, as it is harder to securely weave in ends over the mesh stitches.

Special Stitch Patterns:

dc2tog (decrease): Yo, insert hook in stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, insert hook into specified stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops on hook.

dc3tog (double decrease): Yo, insert hook in stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, insert hook into specified stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, insert hook into specified stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Note: When working the Motif Pocket, dc2tog and dc3tog are referred to as clusters.

Working a filet crochet chart: Think of each vertical line as one stitch and each block as two stitches. You will always work a dc for a vertical line. A block that is filled in is worked as 1 dc in each of the next 2 stitches. An empty block is worked by chaining two and skipping the next two stitches. To turn, ch 2 (counts as first dc). There's a good tutorial here.

Bead tapestry crochet and bead spinners were made for each other! Since tapestry crochet is done with a minimum of two threads, each thread may be strung with a single bead color. Only the color that is needed at the time is crocheted to form the motif while the other thread is carried. The bead falls to the back of the stitch and the colored threads contribute to the pattern and the substantial fabric that provides the basket’s structure. This flexible medium offers fantastic design potential since the design is not locked in – colors can be changed at any point!

• MC: Coats and Clark Aunt Lydia’s Fashion Crochet Thread size 3 (cotton, 150 yds / 137 meters per ball) 1 Plum ball required
• CC1: Coats and Clark Aunt Lydia’s Fashion Crochet Thread size 3 (cotton, 150 yds / 137 meters per ball) 1 Bridal White ball required
• CC2: Coats and Clark Aunt Lydia’s Fashion Crochet Thread size 3 (cotton, 150 yds / 137 meters per ball) 1 Warm Blue ball required
• CC3: Coats and Clark Aunt Lydia’s Fashion Crochet Thread size 3 (cotton, 150 yds / 137 meters per ball) 1 Maize ball required
• US Steel crochet hook size 1 (2.25 mm)
• Fire Mountain Gems #8 seed beads, 1098 Light Amethyst required
• Fire Mountain Gems #8 seed beads, 900 Clear required
• Fire Mountain Gems #8 seed beads, 1440 Light Blue required
• Fire Mountain Gems #8 seed beads, 468 Amber required
• Fire Mountain Gems beading needles, 4 heavy twisted wire beading needles required
• Stitch marker

4¾” (12.07 cm) diameter by 4” (10 cm) high

32 stitches / 32 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)

This basket is worked as a spiral, not in concentric rings, so do not join rounds. To keep track of where each round ends, slip a stitch marker into the top of the last st of the round. Remove the marker from the st and slip it into the new last st at the end of each round.

When changing from one color to another in sc, the final yo and draw-through is done with the second color. Additionally, one yarn is "carried" while the other is being crocheted. This technique, which should be applied throughout this pattern, is known as the tapestry crochet stitch and is illustrated in detail here.

To do a bead tapestry crochet st, insert the hook, slide a bead down next to the crochet hook and project, then continue crocheting the stitch, capturing the bead, which will fall to the back of the st. This stitch is referred to as "bead sc" throughout the pattern.  

Either by hand or with a bead spinner, string all the Light Amethyst beads onto MC, the Clear beads onto CC1, the Light Blue beads onto CC2, and the Amber beads onto CC3. Push the beads down, leaving yard-long pieces without beads on the threads.

Pattern

Wi

This lacy summer skirt was inspired by a gorgeous vintage bedspread pattern. I would never have the patience to crochet hundreds of tiny little squares out of thread to make an entire bedspread, so I designed this skirt as a way to capture the beauty of those patterns in a less painful project. Granted, this is still not a project most could do in a weekend, say, but as you complete each square you get a little thrill of accomplishment to string you along. With a slip or hand-sewn liner, you can wear this beautiful skirt anywhere, or pull it on over your bathing suit for a sexy cover up. Either way, you'll look gorgeous on those hot summer nights.

• Approximately 6 (7, 8, 9) 123yds (112m) / 50g balls sport weight cotton. I used Paton's Bumblebee 100% cotton, Apple Blossom.
• 3.75mm (US F-5) crochet hook
• Yarn needle
• Pre-made slip, or ½ yd (46cm) white cotton fabric and 1 yd (91cm) elastic for lining

small (med, large, x-large)

Hips: 38” (40”, 42”, 44”) [96.5cm (1.02m, 1.07m, 1.12m)]

Length: top of zig zag - 19” (20”, 21”, 22”) [48.3cm (50.8cm, 53.3cm, 55.9cm)], bottom of zig zag - 24” (25”, 26”, 27”) [61.0cm (63.5cm, 66.0cm, 68.6cm)]

Ed. note: See comments at the bottom of this page for tips on how to adjust the pattern for smaller sizes.

Daisy Square: 12 st = 4” (10cm)

Stretchy Square: 7 patterns and 12 rows = 4” (10cm)

Edging patterns present us with the opportunity to transform a garment into something unique and extraordinary. The crocheter is free to decide how edgings will be placed when they are completed. It's fun to piece the elements together and watch them slowly grow into a lacy texture, like stars appearing in an evening sky.
    
I’ve always loved fancy lace edgings. I have updated the classic white cotton T-shirt by adding a lacy collar and bottom trim. The circle motifs recreate this shirt as more delicate, hip and beautiful. I named this the Galaxy Top because its crocheted motifs remind me of a cluster of stars.  

Crochet thread is a great material to work with. It’s inexpensive. It’s small and easy to stuff into your travel bag. It will sometimes even get you a “wow” from someone observing how tiny your project is. Keep in mind that delicate crochet is also incredibly time consuming and will require some patience.

• Mercerized cotton crochet thread, size 10. I used 1 ball in white made by Coats & Clark (325 yds / 297 meters).
• 3.25mm (size D-3) hook
• Fabric scissors
• Sewing needle that fits your cotton crochet thread
• Cotton T-shirt. It should be 100% cotton in order for it to have the same washing properties as your cotton crochet thread. Make sure it’s a T-shirt you like and that it's in good enough condition to justify spending a lot of time making pretty.  
• Straight pins
• Pencil
• Ruler
• Dress form for shaping.  (This is not absolutely necessary, but definitely helpful. I am thankful that I bought mine last summer at a yard sale!)
• Iron (optional)

I used a Medium T-shirt (size 10 from H&M).

Motif measurements are:

Small:  1 ½” (approx. 38mm)
Medium: 1 ¾” (approx. 44mm)
Large:  2” (approx. 51mm)

Gauge is not critical for this pattern. Sizing will vary with the size of your T-shirt. You will use the top half of your shirt as a template for your motifs. For smaller and larger T-shirts just adjust the amount of space between motifs.

A note of caution for beginners: This shirt is made by connecting circle motifs to the body of an existing shirt. There is a freeform aspect to connecting the motifs.

Washing instructions: This garment should be hand washed and dried flat.

Special Stitch:

Overcast stitch: Working over the edge of your shirt, insert threaded sewing needle into fabric and bring back through to the front. Keep the height of your stitches consistent and the tension even as you work your way around the shirt.

Circle Motifs

The top part of the shirt requires 40 rings: 23 small, 11 medium, and 6 large. The bottom trim of the shirt requires 20 rings: 13 small, 5 medium, and 2 large.

Early spring in Oregon is a fickle thing. Some days it’s nice out, some days it rains, most days it does both. And of course, as soon as I see a 55- or 60-degree day, I’m unpacking my summery clothes, even if it’s still March. This seasonal wardrobe change requires a safety net for the first few weeks, though, in the form of a shrug. Shrug Off Winter is just the thing – a bit lacy so it can be worn with jeans or with a skirt, but not so lacy that you’ll freeze in your summery top. Crochet it in a springy color and you can wear it all day; crochet a darker one and it can take you all the way through the cooler nights in summer and into early fall.

• Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino (55% Merino Wool, 33% Microfibre, 12% Cashmere; 137 yds/50g) - 8 (8, 8, 9) balls in color 202
• 3.5mm/Size E hook
• 2 small buttons
• yarn needle

Small (Medium, Large, Extra-Large)

Sleeve Width: 17 (17.5, 18, 18.5) inches
Sleeve length: 11 (11, 11, 12) inches
Bottom back width: 16 (17, 18.5, 19) inches
Back length (from neck to bottom hem): 8.5 (8.5, 9, 9.5) inches

(Shown in size Large in photos) 

2 motifs and 2 rows = 1"

Cluster Stitch: Ch 3. Make three dc around post of previous dc worked but leave last loop of dc on hook.  Dc in next ch-3 sp and leave last loop on hook. Yo and draw through all five loops.

Inc Cluster: Ch 3. Make three dc around post of previous dc worked but leave last loop of dc on hook.  Tr in second turning ch (or through the center of the post of the last tr worked) of previous row and leave last loop on hook. Yo and draw through all five loops.

Sleeves (make 2)

Ch 108 (111, 114, 117).

Do you secretly love old doilies?  Well, my secret’s out, I do; but what I am I going to do with a bunch of doilies?  I’m not too into tablecloths or jar covers.  Then that magic crochet bug hit me, dissect them!  What I found is a deep love for the intricate edgings.  Go on check them out.  They are amazing.  Immediately I thought, BELT!  The stitch pattern below is an edging that has been around for over a hundred years, but in this setting you take all the fuddy-duddy out and are left with a great belt.  Very Bohemian, very hip, very now.  So next time grandma wants to give you another doily, say, thanks!  And start imagining all that you can re-create with it.

• Kroy Socks by Patons, #54013 Hickory, (75% wool, 25% nylon), 150 yards, less then 1 skein
• D/ 3.25mm Hook
• Needle for weaving in ends
• Steam Iron and straight pins for blocking
• (optional) Starch Spray or Liquid Starch
• Silver keychain loop with ball ends (find in jewelry section of local crafts store)
• 9mm metal loop

First two rounds = 2 1/4” Diameter

Gauge is not critical. If your stitches are typically loose, I would suggest a hook one size smaller then recommended on label.)

dc: double crochet
sc: single crochet
sl st: slip stitch
ch: chain
st: stitch

Main Belt Body

Ch 20.