The nice thing about making your own belts is that you get to choose the color, texture, and materials used. This particular design I came up with for my mother. She picked the color and the beads on the end were her idea. We found the buckle at a local fabric store after reading in a magazine an article on making belts.

I thought that this year in honor of all Mothers, I would share my pattern so that perhaps you might make one for yours.

Size 10 cotton thread (bedspread weight)one 350yard ball
Size 7 (1.65mm) steel crochet hook
Buckle
Tapestry Needle
Pony Beads (5)

1 1/2" wide
length is your choice

8dc and 5dc rows = one inch

Uses FPdc(front post dc), BPdc (back post dc), sc, ch st, sl st, dc
Ch 3 at beginning of row counts as first dc

Ch 21

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn.(20sc)

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in each sc across, turn. (20dc)

Row 3: Ch 3, FPdc around each of next 3 dc,(BPdc around each of next 4 dc, FPdc around each of next 4 dc)twice, turn.

Row 4: Ch 3, BPdc around each of next 3 dc, (FPdc around each of next 4 dc, BPdc around each of next 4 dc)twice, turn.

Row 5: Rep Row 3

Rows 6 & 7: Rep Row 4

Row 8: Rep Row 3

Rows 9 & 10: Rep Row 4

Continue in established pattern until belt measures desired length.

Next Row: Ch 1, sc in each dc across. Work 3sc in last dc, turn belt so that long edge is now on top, sc evenly across long edge, work 3 sc across, turn sc evenly across long edge, work 2 more sc in last corner, then join with sl st. DO NOT FASTEN OFF

Fold Belt in half, length-wise, ch 1, using sc join edges all around belt, sc into folded edge also for a more finished look. When you have sc all around the now doubled belt, fasten off. Weave in any loose ends. Sew buckle on one end of belt and pony beads on opposite end.

I wanted a lacy, dainty, delicate glove. Something light to wear in the Summer months ahead. I think these look so elegant and lady-like! Don't you agree?

1 Skein Bernat Baby, Fingering Weight, 100% Acrylic, White
Size "E" (3.5 mm) Crochet Hook
Yarn Needle

A woman's size Small/Medium

6 dc + 3 Rows = 1" in Pattern
(Pattern is a multiple of 8 + 5 chs if you want to work a swatch first.)

These would be awesome worked in a 100% Cotton, or a Size 3 cotton thread, or even a variegated yarn!

Instructions
Ch 37
Row 1 (Right Side): Dc in fifth ch from hook, *skip next 3 chs, 5 dc in next ch, skip next 3 chs, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch, repeat from * across.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn, 2 dc in next ch 1 sp, skip next 3 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next dc, * 5 dc in next ch 1 sp, skip next 3 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next dc, repeat from * across to last sp, 3 dc in last sp.
Row 3: Ch 4, turn, dc in first dc, * 5 dc in next ch 1 sp, skip next 3 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next dc, repeat from * across.
Repeat Rows 2 & 3 seven times or until desired length, ending after Row 2.

Do not cut yarn. Work a Crab Stitch (reverse crochet) across the top. Work sc all around both sides and bottom of piece.

Finishing
With Right Sides Together, slip stitch along side of glove for about 1", leave about a 1 ½" opening for thumb. When seaming is complete, tuck in ends!

Work the 2nd glove the same way!

These lacy leg warmers have an optional lacing up the back, so they "grow" with your little dancer. Available in both child and adult sizes.

2/sport-weight mohair-type yarn
Size G-6 (4.0 mm) crochet hook or size to obtain gauge
Optional: ¼-inch wide ribbon

Child: Small, medium, large
Adult: One Size

2 reps and 10 rows = 4".

http://www.crochetkitten.com/patterns/bellydance.html

I designed this cute guy for my cute nephew Sid :)

• Hook: 3 mm
• Yarn: Fine yarn in 4 colors - I used Mille Fili from Wolle Rödel (100% mercerized cotton, 130m/50g) in caramel (MC), white, red and black
• Stitch marker
• Polyfil for stuffing
• Yarn needle

Height (sitting): 14 cm

If you use a thicker yarn and a bigger hook, your teddy will also be bigger :)

Gauge is unimportant. Make tight stitches.

Each piece starts with an adjustable ring like The Magic Adjustable Ring
All body parts are worked in spirals. Use a stitch marker to keep track of rounds.
Use main color unless otherwise mentioned.

Ear (make 2)

Round 1: Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull tail end to tighten ring. - (6 sc)
Round 2: Work 2 sc in each st around – (12 sc)
Round 3: *Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around– (18 sc)
Rounds 4-7: Sc in each st around. – (18 sc)

Sl st in next stitch; fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Head

(worked from front (nose) to back)

Round 1: Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull tail end to tighten ring. - (6 sc)
Round 2: Work 2 sc in each st around – (12 sc)
Round 3: *Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around – (18 sc)
Round 4: *Sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around – (24 sc)
Round 5: *Sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around – (30 sc)
Round 6: *Sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around – (36 sc)
Round 7: *Sc in each of next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around – (42 sc)
Round 8: *Sc in each of next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around – (48 sc)
Round 9: *Sc in each of next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around – (54 sc)
Round 10: *Sc in each of next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around – (60 sc)

Rounds 11-16: Sc in each st around. – (60 sc)

Round 17: *Sc in each of next 8 sts, Sc2tog; rep from * around – (54 sc)
Round 18: *Sc in each of next 7 sts, Sc2tog; rep from * around – (48 sc)
Round 19: *Sc in each of next 6 sts, Sc2tog; rep from * around – (42 sc)
Round 20: *Sc in each of next 5 sts, Sc2tog; rep from * around – (36 sc)
Round 21: *Sc in each of next 4 sts, Sc2tog; rep from * around – (30 sc)

Embroider the teddy face: nose, mouth and only one eye :-)
Sew on the ears using the long tails. Stuff.

Round 22: *Sc in each of next 3 sts, Sc2tog; rep from * around – (24 sc)
Round 23: *Sc in each of next 2 sts, Sc2tog; rep from * around – (18 sc)

Stuff some more. Decrease evenly until head is almost closed. With yarn needle make a loop with the remaining stitches and pull tight, make a knot; hide the yarn inside the head.

Eye Patch

Use black yarn.

Round 1: Work 4 sc into the ring. Pull tail end to tighten ring. - (4 sc)
Round 2: Turn; Work 2 sc in each st - (8 sc)

Add chains until strap is long enough to fit around head. Join with main part of patch; leave a long tail. Sew patch to head.

Body

Round 1: Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull tail end to tighten ring. - (6 sc)
Round 2: Work 2 sc in each st around – (12 sc)
Round 3: *Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around – (18 sc)
Round 4: *Sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around – (24 sc)
Round 5: *Sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around– (30 sc)
Round 6: *Sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around – (36 sc)
Round 7: *Sc in each of next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around – (42 sc)
Round 8: *Sc in each of next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around – (48 sc)
Round 9: *Sc in each of next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around – (54 sc)
Rounds 10-13: Sc in each st around. – (54 sc)

Round 14: White: Sc in each st around. – (54 sc)
Round 15: Red: Sc in each st around. – (54 sc)
Round 16: White: Sc in each st around. – (54 sc)
Round 17: Red: Sc in each st around. – (54 sc)
Round 18: White: Sc in each st around. – (54 sc)
Round 19: Red: Sc in each st around. – (54 sc)
Round 20: White: Sc in each st around. – (54 sc)
Round 21: Red: Sc in each st around. – (54 sc)
Round 22: White: Sc in each st around. – (54 sc)
Round 23: Red: *Sc in each of next 7 sts, Sc2tog; rep from * around – (48 sc)
Round 24: White: Sc in each st around. – (48 sc)
Round 25: Red: *Sc in each of next 6 sts, Sc2tog; rep from * around – (42 sc)
Round 26: White: Sc in each st around. – (42 sc)
Round 27: Red: *Sc in each of next 5 sts, Sc2tog; rep from * around – (36 sc)
Round 28: White: Sc in each st around. – (36 sc)
Round 29: Red: *Sc in each of next 4 sts, Sc2tog; rep from * around – (30 sc)
Round 30: White: *Sc in each of next 3 sts, Sc2tog; rep from * around– (24 sc)

Change back to main color:
Rounds 31-32: Sc in each st around. – (24 sc)

Sl st in next stitch; fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff.

Arm (make 2)

Round 1: Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull tail end to tighten ring. - (6 sc)
Round 2: Work 2 sc in each st around – (12 sc)
Round 3: *Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around– (18 sc)
Rounds 4-9: Sc in each st around. – (18 sc)

Round 10: White: Sc in each st around. – (18 sc)
Round 11: Red: Sc in each st around. – (18 sc)
Round 12: White: Sc in each st around. – (18 sc)
Round 13: Red: Sc in each st around. – (18 sc)
Round 14: White: Sc in each st around. – (18 sc)
Round 15: Red: Sc in each st around. – (18 sc)

Sl st in next stitch; fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff.

Leg (make 2)

Round 1: Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull tail end to tighten ring. - (6 sc)
Round 2: Work 2 sc in each st around– (12 sc)
Round 3: *Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around– (18 sc)
Round 4: *Sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * around – (24 sc)
Round 5: Sc in each st around. – (24 sc)
Round 6: Sc in each of next 10 sts, Sc2tog 2 times, Sc in each of next 10 sts - (22 sc)
Round 7: Sc in each of next 9 sts, Sc2tog 2 times, Sc in each of next 9 sts - (20 sc)
Round 8: Sc in each of next 8 sts, Sc2tog 2 times, Sc in each of next 8 sts - (18 sc)
Rounds 9-15: Sc in each st around. – (18 sc)

Sl st in next stitch; fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff.

Tail

Round 1: Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull tail end to tighten ring. - (6 sc)
Round 2: Work 2 sc in each st around – (12 sc)
Rounds 3-4: Sc in each st around. – (12 sc)

Sl st in next stitch; fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff a little.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Sew on everything using the long tails and enjoy!

these are really cute especially with black and white. you can do them with any two colors. and if you like to double braclets up they really look good with black or white braids.

2 different colors of #4 worsted yarn/thread
sixe 7 hook

1cm x 8 cm

3sc= 1 cm

make sure this is tight but not too tight. it will sort of spiral but all you have to do is steam press with iron.

color 1

1 ch 41
2 sc in 2nd from hook
3 sc in ea ch (40)
BIND

Color 2

1 ch 20
2 sc on top of color 1 (40)
3 ch 20
BIND

Color 1

1

these are awesome. my grandma has a store and i was able to sell these little buggers. they made soo much money. this is really good for people who like things fast. they only take around 3 minutes. please comment. it would really make my day.
this picture is an unfinished one just to give you an idea.

the small craft yarn. thin.
a size 7 needle.
glass seed beads (optional)
embroidery floss(optional)

about 1 cm by 8 cm

3 sc= 1cm

here we go!!
(make sure you read the whole thing. if anything is confusing comment it and ill try to explain better.)

1 ch 4

2 sc in 2nd ch from hook

3 1sc in each ch

*ch 1 turn

It's time to add as much fuel as possible to the CROCHET REVOLUTION! Show your pride and solidarity by wearing your very own revolutionary armband. In true DIY style, stitch one up however you'd like. Not a fan of colourwork? Ditch it. Never tried it before? Give it a shot! And don't even think of showing up to a Crochet Me book event without one. (Just think of all the blog photos of armband-clad crocheters! Pretty revolutionary!)

• Yarn: Tahki Dream (80% wool, 20% nylon; 262 yds/242 m per 1.75 oz/50 g): #008 Emerald Green (MC), 1 ball; #001 White (CC1), 1 ball, #012 Fuschia (CC2), 1 ball. Yarn distributed by Tahki Stacy Charles.
• Hook: 3.5mm. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
• Yarn needle

Customizable. The armband shown is about 4" wide when laid flat and about 2.5" long.

The pattern is written in one size; for a larger or smaller version, add or subtract an even number of stitches when you begin. The skull is worked over the center 14 stitches regardless of how large or small you make the armband.

Approximately 6 sts and 7 rows = 1" in sc

Although any fingering-or-lighter weight yarn or thread can be substituted, the high wool content in the recommended yarn gives the armband a lovely amount of stretch. Using a 100% cotton yarn or thread might not produce an armband that will actually stay put on your arm.

There are two ways to begin the pattern. Option A, involving foundation stitches (see the Spring 2007 Interweave Crochet), is preferred, since it results in a stretchier foundation row than a traditional foundation chain.

Armband is worked in the round, turning after each round. Turning prevents the skull design from becoming terribly skewed.

Be sure to carry the unused yarn on the WS of your work.

[Big thanks to Elin for modeling all over Vancouver with me for this project.]

Option A:
Foundation Rnd: With MC, work 50 fsc, sl st in first fsc to join, being careful not to twist the sts, turn.

Bobby Blue was one of the first toys I crocheted using my own pattern. I wanted something simple and unique at the same time. I guess he turned out OK :) So, please do enjoy this pattern and let me know if you have any comments.

acrylic yarn, polyfill, crochet hook, tapestry/yarn needle, scissors

Height : 3.5 inches
Width : 2.8 inches

The finished size will depend on the type of yarn used, the size of the crochet hook and the crocheting tension.

All single crochet stitches, both working in the rounds and in rows.

ORIGINAL PATTERN BY MELBANGEL © 2007

Pattern for a Crocheted Toy – Bobby Blue

Materials

• Acrylic Yarn (light blue, dark blue, orange, black, neon pink and off-white)
• Polyfill

Hemp is great for season-less projects, warm in the winter, cool in the summer. This scarf works up quick in blocks of color and the hemp gets softer the more you wash it!

-1 skein each of two different colors
Hemp For Knitting allhemp3
100% long hemp fiber, 165yds per skein
MC = aubergine, color 27
CC = sprout, color 19

-crochet hook US F (3.75mm)

55" long x 1.75" wide

gauge: 6 sc = 1"
not crucial

Note: When changing colors, just tie a double knot with both yarns, leaving a 2" tail. This will give the scarf the tails shown in the photo along the long edge.

For a wider or longer scarf, add more stitches in the beginning chain and work more rows!

-with MC, ch 13, work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each to beg (10dc)
-ch 2, turn, 1 hdc in each across
-ch 3, turn, 1 dc in each across
-join CC, ch 3, turn, 1 dc in each across

A week or so ago my lovely kitten Rogetts reminded me that every once in a while kitties need a new toy. Or they might riffle through your purse, steal you headphones out and pull the insulation off while leaving a big mess in at least 3 rooms of your house. Oh well I reward the little brat with a new set of toys made that day before she could find anything else to destroy.

I had been thinking about making toys for a while now and had been doing some research on the way the cats see and interact with the world. Cats do not see colors the same as people. Contrast and pattern are more important so I picked colors that contrasted with each other. I read that acrylic yarn taste bad to cats from some website of unknown credentials. But the idea stuck in my head and I have noticed that the cats only run off with wool and cotton. So they get cotton toys because it is so durable. Oh and the cats love to move there toys around so I topped it all off some monk cords on each end. The cats seem to love them. I am sure that catnip stuffing has something to do with it too.

• Small amount of two colors of cotton sport weight yarn (the photos is show with saucy sport yarn and sinfonia)
• size c crochet hook, or the smallest size hook you can use with your yarn (you want the stitches to be very tight so the cat nip does not fall out)
• yarn needle
• cotton balls
• catnip

1 inch

Gauge is not very important, just make sure that your stitches are tight enough to keep the catnip from falling out.

Your kitty helps with your yarn projects every day. Isn't it
time you reward her with her very own crocheted gift?

1 safety break-away cat collar with plastic snap closure in your cat’s size
Color A: 1 ball #3 crochet cotton
Color B: 1 ball #3 crochet cotton
Color C: 1 ball #3 crochet cotton
Size 2.75mm steel crochet hook
Yarn needle

Your cat's collar size.

None given.

Special Stitch: Picot.
When indicated, ch 3, sl st in first of these 3 ch. Picot complete.

http://www.crochetkitten.com/files/Ms_Kyle_s_Kitty_Collar.pdf

These shoes were made for walking--and showing off your crochet skill! This unique project works up quickly.

1 pair flip flops in your size
Color A: 1 ball #3 crochet cotton
Color B: 1 ball #3 crochet cotton
Color C: 1 ball #3 crochet cotton
Size 2.75mm steel crochet hook
Yarn needle

Your shoe size!

None given.

Special Stitch: Picot.
When indicated, ch 3, sl st in first of these 3 ch. Picot complete.

http://www.crochetkitten.com/files/Old_Town_Flip-Flops.pdf

When I was in high school, a push for environmental awareness was sparked by concern over the ozone layer. The US government managed to ban CFCs during this time and recycling programs sprouted up in towns all over the country. And then, well, some other crisis caught the media’s attention and it seems like over the last 15 years, the nation took the proverbial “one step back” after its “two steps forward.”

As attention turns once more en masse to the protection of the environment, it’s important to remember that arguably the most important of the “3 Rs” is not “recycle,” but “reduce.” When we keep resources out of the consumption cycle all together, we don’t have to worry about reusing or recycling them.

It’s with that in mind that I created this mesh tote, suitable for getting groceries home from the store and reducing the need to use store-provided bags. Reusable for years to come, you will prevent the need to recycle many shopping bags over the lifespan of the tote. And, in case you are somewhat of a shopaholic, the base of the bag is a filet-crochet rendering of the Reduction symbol to remind you to consider whether you really need something before you put it in the bag. (If you don’t want to lecture yourself while shopping, I’ve included a blank graph, too, so you can design your own bag bottom.)

The bag has a pocket on the front that can hold your keys and wallet while you shop. When you get home, you can fold the bag up and invert the pocket over it to store the bag until you need it again. (It reduces in size, too!) Also, the mesh construction of the bag makes it perfect for trips to the beach. Stow it in another bag and take it out when you are leaving to pack up sandy clothes, towels and seashells.

Want to increase your earth-friendly impact? Poke around in a thrift store for the ever-present wayward balls of crochet cotton and use those instead of buying new. See if you have some buttons lying around the house either on old clothes that are too damaged to be donated or from the replacement buttons that come with some shirts. The sample bag was made entirely out of thrift-store finds and cost less than $2 in materials. I love when good for the earth is good for your pocketbook, too!

• Copious amounts of scrap crochet cotton in size 10 (to be used double-stranded throughout), size 3, or size 5. Sample used the following:
• MC: Coats & Clark South Maid (100% mercerized cotton, 400 yds per ball), White, 2 balls required
• CC1 Coats & Clark Royale Classic Crochet Cotton (100% mercerized cotton, 350 yards per ball), 401-Orchid Pink, 2 balls required
• CC2: Small amount of size 10 mercerized cotton in brown (about 30-40 yards)
• US E / 3.5mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle
• 4 split ring stitch markers
• 4 half-inch buttons
• Straight pins

18”w x 4.5”d x 15”h (measurements given are taken when the bag is relaxed and exclude the handles)

19 dc / 9.5 rows = 4 inches

While gauge is technically unimportant in a bag such as this, it can have an effect on the size of buttons you can use to secure the pocket flap. So, if you don’t take time to check your gauge, be aware that you may need slightly larger or smaller buttons. And, of course, be sure to work at a consistent gauge throughout.

Any time there is a color change noted in the pattern (or, indeed, anywhere you like) you can switch from using double stranded size 10 crochet cotton to a single strand of size 3 or size 5. The bag was designed to use scraps of crochet cotton, so feel free to get creative. The only suggestion is to use one yarn continuously through the mesh portion of the bag, as it is harder to securely weave in ends over the mesh stitches.

Special Stitch Patterns:

dc2tog (decrease): Yo, insert hook in stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, insert hook into specified stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops on hook.

dc3tog (double decrease): Yo, insert hook in stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, insert hook into specified stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, insert hook into specified stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Note: When working the Motif Pocket, dc2tog and dc3tog are referred to as clusters.

Working a filet crochet chart: Think of each vertical line as one stitch and each block as two stitches. You will always work a dc for a vertical line. A block that is filled in is worked as 1 dc in each of the next 2 stitches. An empty block is worked by chaining two and skipping the next two stitches. To turn, ch 2 (counts as first dc). There's a good tutorial here.

Bead tapestry crochet and bead spinners were made for each other! Since tapestry crochet is done with a minimum of two threads, each thread may be strung with a single bead color. Only the color that is needed at the time is crocheted to form the motif while the other thread is carried. The bead falls to the back of the stitch and the colored threads contribute to the pattern and the substantial fabric that provides the basket’s structure. This flexible medium offers fantastic design potential since the design is not locked in – colors can be changed at any point!

• MC: Coats and Clark Aunt Lydia’s Fashion Crochet Thread size 3 (cotton, 150 yds / 137 meters per ball) 1 Plum ball required
• CC1: Coats and Clark Aunt Lydia’s Fashion Crochet Thread size 3 (cotton, 150 yds / 137 meters per ball) 1 Bridal White ball required
• CC2: Coats and Clark Aunt Lydia’s Fashion Crochet Thread size 3 (cotton, 150 yds / 137 meters per ball) 1 Warm Blue ball required
• CC3: Coats and Clark Aunt Lydia’s Fashion Crochet Thread size 3 (cotton, 150 yds / 137 meters per ball) 1 Maize ball required
• US Steel crochet hook size 1 (2.25 mm)
• Fire Mountain Gems #8 seed beads, 1098 Light Amethyst required
• Fire Mountain Gems #8 seed beads, 900 Clear required
• Fire Mountain Gems #8 seed beads, 1440 Light Blue required
• Fire Mountain Gems #8 seed beads, 468 Amber required
• Fire Mountain Gems beading needles, 4 heavy twisted wire beading needles required
• Stitch marker

4¾” (12.07 cm) diameter by 4” (10 cm) high

32 stitches / 32 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)

This basket is worked as a spiral, not in concentric rings, so do not join rounds. To keep track of where each round ends, slip a stitch marker into the top of the last st of the round. Remove the marker from the st and slip it into the new last st at the end of each round.

When changing from one color to another in sc, the final yo and draw-through is done with the second color. Additionally, one yarn is "carried" while the other is being crocheted. This technique, which should be applied throughout this pattern, is known as the tapestry crochet stitch and is illustrated in detail here.

To do a bead tapestry crochet st, insert the hook, slide a bead down next to the crochet hook and project, then continue crocheting the stitch, capturing the bead, which will fall to the back of the st. This stitch is referred to as "bead sc" throughout the pattern.  

Either by hand or with a bead spinner, string all the Light Amethyst beads onto MC, the Clear beads onto CC1, the Light Blue beads onto CC2, and the Amber beads onto CC3. Push the beads down, leaving yard-long pieces without beads on the threads.

Pattern

Wi

This lacy summer skirt was inspired by a gorgeous vintage bedspread pattern. I would never have the patience to crochet hundreds of tiny little squares out of thread to make an entire bedspread, so I designed this skirt as a way to capture the beauty of those patterns in a less painful project. Granted, this is still not a project most could do in a weekend, say, but as you complete each square you get a little thrill of accomplishment to string you along. With a slip or hand-sewn liner, you can wear this beautiful skirt anywhere, or pull it on over your bathing suit for a sexy cover up. Either way, you'll look gorgeous on those hot summer nights.

• Approximately 6 (7, 8, 9) 123yds (112m) / 50g balls sport weight cotton. I used Paton's Bumblebee 100% cotton, Apple Blossom.
• 3.75mm (US F-5) crochet hook
• Yarn needle
• Pre-made slip, or ½ yd (46cm) white cotton fabric and 1 yd (91cm) elastic for lining

small (med, large, x-large)

Hips: 38” (40”, 42”, 44”) [96.5cm (1.02m, 1.07m, 1.12m)]

Length: top of zig zag - 19” (20”, 21”, 22”) [48.3cm (50.8cm, 53.3cm, 55.9cm)], bottom of zig zag - 24” (25”, 26”, 27”) [61.0cm (63.5cm, 66.0cm, 68.6cm)]

Ed. note: See comments at the bottom of this page for tips on how to adjust the pattern for smaller sizes.

Daisy Square: 12 st = 4” (10cm)

Stretchy Square: 7 patterns and 12 rows = 4” (10cm)