Hi,
Most publishers reject designs, made from rare or discontinued yarn. But i made it. Actually, I get really great yarns from Ebay, which are sold at a VERY low price. I prefer to buy cones - more yarn, which is enough for a large project and I can get such yarns as cashmere, angora, silk, bamboo, alpaca. And I am not talking about blends like Bernat has (Cashmere yarn in which only 5% actually are cashmere!), but blends which have at least 50% of wool, angora and so and sometimes you even can get 100% ones! Cotton ones you can get like 5-7 at least 2 lb cones for as low as $25 - and the colors are super bright! If you are making the projects for sale or for present or just for yourself (as long as they are not for publishers) they are SUPER DEALS FOR YOU!

* Linen machine knitting yarn size#30/3 of coral color, which is similar to mercerized cotton yarn #30
* Size 1.5 mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge

Girl size 6

Dur to the uniqueness of the yarn I think the gauge is irrelevant for this project

Front and back are identical

1. Chain 167.
2. Sc into second chain from the hook, ch5, skip ch4, sc into fifth chain. Continue until the end f this row. Turn.
3. Ch5, Picot (1sc, ch3, 1 sc) into the middle of the ch5. Continue until the end of the row. Ch2, 1 dc into last sc. Turn.
4. Ch1, 1 sc into 1st chain. ( ch5, picot into the middle of ch5) until the end of the row.
5. Continue for total of 32 rows. At the end of 32nd row ch42. Finish off.
6. Join yarn at the beginning of this row. Ch47, turn
7. Sc into second chain from the hook, ch5, skip ch4, sc into fifth chain. Continue until the end of the ch47. Continue the main body part according to the pattern until the end of the main body part. Work second sleeve as first sleeve.
8. Continue according to the pattern for total of 21 more rows. Turn.
9. Ch5, sc into the middle of ch5. Continue until the end of the row. Turn.
Edging:
1. Ch8, dc into seventh sc. (ch5, dc into 6th sc) until the end of the row. Turn.
2. Ch6, work 3dtr into first dc. (3dtr,ch5, 3dtr) into each next dc until the end of the row, ending with (3dtr, ch2, 1tr) into 3rd ch. Turn
3. Ch1, 1 sc into first tr. ( Ch7, 1 sc into the middle of Ch5) until the end of the row, ending with last sc into 4th of first ch6. Turn.
4. Ch1, 1 sc into last sc. ( 9sc into next ch7, 1sc into next sc) until the end of the row. Finish off.

Assembling:
1. Sew side edges with sc together.
2. Make the same edging on the bottom of the body, continue rows in circles using sl st.
3. At the end of the shoulders sew one arch of back and one of front togther.
4. Make the same edging at the end of the sleeves.

This is a great starter piece for Bead Crochet Bags. If you ever wanted to try crocheting with beads to make an amulet. Here is your pattern. Have a great time.

You will need one Hank of size 11 seed beads
1 spool of pearle cotton DMC thread
1 size 7 crochet steel hook
Scissors

The bag is actually TINY. It will be 1 by 1 inch

Gauge will depend on the thread and tension.

You will use Single Crochet, Half Double Crochet and slip stitch as well as the listed stitches below
Ch Chain
Sc Single Crochet
YO Yarn Over
Sp(s) Space (s)
Hdc Half-Double Crochet
Ch B Chain Bead
Hdc B Half-double Crochet Bead
B Bead (s)
RD Round
DC Double Crochet

Loading Beads onto the Cotton from the Hanks:

You will be transferring them from one sting to the other. At this point you will only put up to 6 stands. Too many at one time will get tangled.

Note: This piece is worked in same direction. Do not turn.

Base: Chain 6 – join.

BEAD LOOP Round
Tassel for Bottom: go through the center bring up as if to sc. Do not complete sc, slide 30 beads down then close around them. That made one single crochet with beads in the middle of that SC. Repeat this 12 times. Join in the top of the first of the 10 loops
Rd 1: Ch 1, sc in same space you joined in. Sc around all the 12 loops, slip in first ch to join.
Rd 2: Ch 1, sc in same sp, (* 2 sc in next sp, 1 sc in next * repeat) this will give you 18 sc. Join.
Rd 3: Ch 1, sc in same sp, (* 2 sc in next sp, 1 sc in next * repeat) this will give you 24 sc. Join.
Rd 4: Ch 1, sc in same sp, (*2 sc in next sp, 1 sc in next * repeat) this will give you 30 sc. Join.
BEAD Round
Rd 5: Ch 1 slide bead (counts as SC with bead) - (*Sc Bead*) completely around.
Rd 6: Ch 2, Hdc in same space, Hdc 1 time in next space then HDC 2 times in next hole.
BEAD LOOP Round
Rd 7: Ch 1 slide a bead down – chain to close (*Slide 20 beads HDC next space do a HDC-B*). Repeat * -*, join.
Rd 8: Ch 2, Hdc in same space, Hdc 1 time in next space then HDC 2 times in next hole.
BEAD LOOP Round
Rd 9: Ch 1 slide a bead down – chain to close (*Slide 20 beads HDC next space do a HDC-B*). Repeat * -*, join.
Rd 10: Ch 2, Hdc in same space, Hdc 1 time in next space then HDC 2 times in next hole.
BEAD LOOP Round
Rd 11: Ch 1 slide a bead down – chain to close (*Slide 20 beads HDC next space do a HDC-B*). Repeat * -*, join.
Rd 12: Ch 2, Hdc in same space, Hdc 1 time in next space then HDC 2 times in next hole.
BEAD LOOP Round
Rd 13: Ch 1 slide a bead down – chain to close (*Slide 20 beads HDC next space do a HDC-B*). Repeat * -*, join.
Rd 14: Ch 2, Hdc in same space, Hdc 1 time in next space then HDC 2 times in next hole.
Rd 15: Ch 2, Hdc in same space, Hdc 1 time in next space then HDC 2 times in next hole.
Rd 16: Ch 1 slide bead (counts as SC with bead) - (*Sc Bead*) completely around.
Decreasing Rows
Rd 17: Ch 2, Hdc in same space, Hdc in next space, (*Skip one space and Hdc in next 2 spaces*) repeat *-* and Join.
Rd 18: Ch 2, Hdc in same space, Hdc in next space, (*Skip one space and Hdc in next 2 spaces*) repeat *-* and Join.
Rd 19: Ch 1 slide bead (counts as SC with bead) - (*Sc Bead*) completely around.
Rd 20: Ch 1 slide a bead down – chain to close (*Slide 20 beads HDC next space do a HDC-B*). Repeat * -*, join.
Rd 21: Hdc in all spaces and Join.

Crochet Chain Strap or Necklace: where you joined *(chain 1 – B chain - chain 1)* repeat to make the Chain for the bag. When long enough join to the bag directly across from the starting point then cut off.

These earrings/pendant were creates while designing my Pretty Picot Poinsettia Snowflake. I thought the center of the snowflake made an adorable small snowflake all on its own and thought that it would make an adorable jewelery set.

ETA: I'm sorry about the bad photo, it's all that I have right now. At the time, all that I had was the camera on my cell phone and the earrings were a gift that I made for someone.

I recently got a "real" digital camera and as soon as I make up a new pair, I will update this photo.
Thanks

Royale Metallic Crochet Cotton size 10 in White/pearl
Size 7/1.65 mm Steel hook
2 Earwires for earrings or 1 jump ring for pendant(the kind with the single split in it)

about an an inch in diameter, give or take

gauge not too important

Abbreviations:
YO-Yarn Over
ch-chain
sl st-slip stitch
st-stitch

Special Stitches:
Extended Double Cluster (cluster):
YO, insert hook into st indicated, YO, pull through 1 loop on hook (chain made), YO, pull through 2 loops on hook, [YO, insert hook into the chain at bottom of first stitch , YO, pull through 2 loops on hook] repeat once more (4 loops on hook). YO, pull through all 4 loops.
Picot:
ch 3, sl st into back loop of 3rd ch from hook.

(make 2 for earrings)
Ch 4, [YO, insert hook into back lop of 3rd ch from hook, YO, pull through 2 loops] repeat once (3 loops on hook), YO, pull through all 3 loops (beginning cluster made).

Winter is on its way, and so are last minute Holiday gifts. I think that we all have done that last minute quick crochet gift for our kids teachers, the unexpected house guest for the Holiday, etc...

This little snowflake came out of the fact that I was tired of making the snowflakes in the little book that I had (this was before I got the 99 snowflake book!) and I thought, how hard can a snowflake be?

So, last year, I sat down with a ball of thread, a size 7 hook and went at it, and this is the result!

Royale Metallic Crochet Cotton size 10 in White/pearl
Size 7/1.65 mm Steel hook
Stiffener, stainless steel straight pins, a pinning board (I cover mine with plastic wrap, "Press and Seal" works really well), follow directions on the stiffener.

I never really measured it, but I think that it comes out to be about 4-5 inches in diameter. The photo is close to actual size, give or take.

gauge not really that important

Abbreviations:
YO-Yarn Over
ch-chain
sl st-slip stitch
st-stitch
sc-single crochet
dc-double crochet
sk-skip

Special Stitches:
Extended Double Cluster (cluster):
YO, insert hook into st indicated, YO, pull through 1 loop on hook (chain made), YO, pull through 2 loops on hook, [YO, insert hook into the chain at bottom of first stitch , YO, pull through 2 loops on hook] repeat once more (4 loops on hook). YO, pull through all 4 loops.
Picot:
ch 3, sl st into back loop of 3rd ch from hook.

RND 1:Ch 4, [YO, insert hook into back lop of 3rd ch from hook, YO, pull through 2 loops] repeat once (3 loops on hook), YO, pull through all 3 loops (beginning cluster made).

A little pouch for makeup, crochet tools, change, whatever! Worked in a spiral after the orange base, close with a zipper or even some lightweight Velcro.

-Olympus Herbs
(100% cotton, 96yds each, crochet thread size #20)
1 ball MC
1 ball CC

-steel crochet hook 2.00mm

approx 3.5" wide

NOTE: You can work this project in any yarn, any hook! Heavier weight yarns and a larger hook will produce a larger pouch. Be sure to use a hook size that gives you a tight crochet stitch.

9.5 sc = 1"

Working the increase rounds of this pattern, you will not join to the ch 1 stitch at the beginning of the round, you will skip the ch 1 and join to the first sc of each round (makes for a cleaner looking join). After increases are finished you will work in a continuous spiral instead of joining rounds.

Want to sport a conversation piece that is as appropriate on the convention circuit as it is for a day of snowboarding? Well then, this hat’s for you! Inspired by my favorite LOTR villain, this big-eared chapeau is worked up in warm wool Koigu and created entirely single crochet. Short rows are used to create a wrinkled brow, and easy construction techniques allow even the novice crocheter to tackle this wacky headgear with little problem. It’s a satisfying project that is sure to turn heads.

• MC: Koigu Premium Merino KPM (100% Merino wool, 175 yds/ 50 g), color – 1111, 2 hanks required
• CC1: Koigu Premium Merino KPM (100% Merino wool, 175 yds/ 50 g), color – 2420, 1 hank required
• CC2: Koigu Premium Merino KPM (100% Merino wool, 175 yds/ 50 g), color – 2300, 1 hank required
• CC3: Koigu Premium Merino KPM (100% Merino wool, 175 yds/ 50 g), color – 00, 1 hank required
• US C / 2.75 mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge
• Yarn needle
• Fiberfill
• Pins

One size

27 sc / 32 rows = 4 inches

Okay, I'm like Ebenezer Scrooge (I'd rather be like Scrooge McDuck and have a walk-in safe full of gold coins, but I don't). I think the holiday season is naff. I protest it every year by ignoring it completely, scowling at any holiday cards I receive in the mail, and getting grumpier and grumpier as the year comes to a close. This year, however, I decided to embrace my inner cheese-ball and make the corniest, cheesiest, and most naff piece of winter jewelry I could think of. I present to you, 'Ice Princess,' because everyone needs a snowflake necklace, even here in Scotland during the rainy season.

1. J. & P. Coats Royale Metallic Crochet Thread (88% mercerized cotton, 12% metallic; 100 yds [91 m]/Size 10;):  226G Natural/Gold, 1 ball. Yarn distributed by Coats & Clark.  
2. 1.50 mm crochet hook.  (Some say this is a size 7 hook, but I have a Boye USA hook that says it's a size 8. So there.)
3. Tapestry needle
4. Sewing needle
5. Sewing thread
6. Stitch marker
7. Button (I use the 3/8 - 1/2" diameter spares that come with dress shirts)

Finished necklace is about 14" across.

34 sc = 4 inches

Stitch height is not important and will not adversely affect the finished design.

Special stitches: 

sc2tog (decrease) – insert hook in st, yo and draw loop through st (2 loops on hook), yo, insert hook in next st, yo and draw loop through st (3 loops on hook), yo and draw loop through all loops on hook.

I have a hard time passing up wool and cashmere sweaters when I find them at thrift stores. I appreciate quality yarn in pretty colors, but I don’t always approve of a thrift store sweater’s style. When a nice sweater fits perfectly but doesn’t suit my taste, I feel compelled to set it free from life as a helpless victim of outdated fashion. This sweater entered the world with a stifling, high collar that made my neck feel trapped. With my crochet hook and some scissors, I set it free!

• 1 ball of size 10 crochet cotton to match your sweater however you want
• US size D/3 - 3.25mm hook
• Small felting needle
• Piece of styrofoam to needle felt into (at least 2” thick)
• Fabric scissors
• Marking implement (such as fabric chalk)
• Sewing needle

Custom.

The size of the crocheted collar and cuffs for your sweater will vary depending on the sweater you choose to embellish. Although gauge is not important for this project, I have included the measurements of my own sweater. It didn’t leave the thrift store with tags so I don’t know exactly how large it is, but I’m guessing it is a size small. My finished collar is 1 1/2” tall by 13” wide when lying flat. The finished cuffs each measure 5” long, 6” wide at the widest edge and 3 3/4” wide at the narrowest point. The gauge of my work is 4” = 30 sc wide, (14) 3-ch mesh arc stitches wide and 22 mesh arc stitches tall.

Any sweater can be modified using this pattern. If you use a fine knit wool sweater you can needle felt the cut edges to prevent fraying. Needle felting is a dry felting process that adheres the fibers of wool together with a sharp barbed tool. Some links with more information about needle felting:

• http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=51271.0
• http://www.gfwsheep.com/needlefelting/needlefelt1.html

Collar

Prepare collar for crocheting

Spread the sweater out flat with the front facing up.

• Main Colour (MC): Jaeger Siena (153 yds/140m per 50g), Blush, 1 ball
• Contrast Colour (CC): Bouton D'or Mango (120 yds/110m per 50g), Prune, 1 ball
• 3.25mm (size D/3) crochet hook

When changing color you do not need to fasten off at each color change. Simply drop the last color and pick up and pull through the next color.

It’s jewelry -– or an altar cloth as the case may be -– for your coffee maker. Every morning it says “I love me” better than a thermal carafe model. Crocheted of colored wire and glass beads, this project is a good introduction to jewelry-making and the special properties of metal.

Ed. Note: Please use common sense. If the wire you use is plastic-coated or if you're using beads, do remove the doily from the heating element before using your coffee maker. If in doubt, use the doily as a trivet only, and do not use it in your coffee maker.

A standard Mr. Coffee hotplate measures 3.75 inches in diameter inside its lipped edge; minimalists will prefer 5 rows of pattern, which will elegantly rest just inside the edge. The rest of us take the beaded edging option (Row 6); the fringe loops are long enough to hang over the edge of the hotplate so that they don’t interfere too much with sliding the coffeepot in and out. The fringe row is about 1 inch high for a total diameter of about 5.5 inches.

7½ double crochets = 1 inch and 4 rows = 1 inch. Tug on your stitches a bit both vertically and horizontally before measuring.

If this is your first time crocheting wire, congratulations on entering the unique world of metalworking! This project will be good practice because it’s all double crochets. Your first stitches are likely to be loose and irregular and messy-looking. Here are some tips:

1. Try looping the wire around an additional finger for more tension. Try to make tight stitches and small contained movements.
2. Think of wire as crochet thread that already has the starch in it because when you’re done crocheting, you can tell the stitches what to do, and they will behave.  Don’t worry if the shape of your doily is bent, crooked, rippled, amateur, or otherwise hopeless. There’s no way it will look neat and even and flat while you’re gripping it to work the stitches. It will shape up when you discipline it with the flattening tool of your choice at the completion of row 5 (before you add beads). Shape the stitches by nudging and poking them with your hook.
3. You must use 28 gauge wire. Do not substitute with the next larger size (26 gauge). It just takes practice and little rest periods because it uses new muscles that other kinds of crocheting don’t require. It’s more important than usual to avoid hunching your shoulders as you work. (If you really have trouble with the 28 gauge, experiment with 30 gauge.)
4. If you find that you use one of your fingertips as a backing when trying to poke the hook through a stitch, wear a thimble or band-aid on that finger for cushioned support.
5. Assume that you can’t rip out mistakes. Sometimes you can without breaking the wire, but you will still be weakening it. It’s best to leave tiny kinks in the wire; trying to remove them stresses the wire. Wire is weird because it’s so strong that you have to manhandle it, but it can snap, so you have to baby it at the same time. If the wire does break, it matters more when you crochet wire jewelry than with this project, so don’t worry. Twist together the broken ends and keep going. With some wire projects you don’t need to weave in a long tail, just try to keep ends from popping up and feeling prickly or snagging things (especially important with jewelry items).
6. The turning chain-3 counts as 1 dc.
7. All stitches are worked into the top 2 loops of the row below.

US pattern conventions used
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
dc = double crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
rep = repeat

Instructions
If you will be adding the beaded edging as shown in the photo, string all beads now. String them in the opposite order that you’ll be using them. Either you can just string on a zillion, or you can be scientific about it and figure that 63 looped fringes will need beads. In the model, I just always made sure that I put a big red bead at the tip of the fringe, a couple of little beads on either side of it, and a couple more at the base of it. So I began stringing like this: *2 or 3 little beads, 1 big red, 4 or 5 little (includes 2 for the base of fringe loop), repeat sequence from * 62 times. Push all the beads way down the line because you won’t need them for 5 rows.

Ready?

The inspiration for these simple but colourful flowers didn’t come from my garden as much as from my children’s drawings. It was clear to me from the start that both colours and shapes should be bold.

They can be worked up in the yarn of your choice, and used in any way you want. Sew them on a garment, a bag, a pillow, a hat… I spread them on a table cloth, to make sure my kitchen table will remind us that is summer, even during grey and rainy days.

These flowers can be varied almost endlessly. Play around with different colours, different-sized centers or petals, and mix them with other motifs.

I used DMC Petra, which is a #5 cotton thread which comes in plenty of colours. To my knowledge Petra is sold only in Europe, but substitution should be easy since no considerations of gauge need to be made. I worked with a 1.75mm/size 6 hook.

• All colour changes should be initiated in the last stitch before the change of colour noted in the pattern. This means that the last “yarn-over-and-pull-through” in the last stitch of the previous colour should be made with the new colour. In this way, the last stitch of colour A will be completely made up with colour A, and without any “spilling over” to the first stitch in colour B.
• Flowers 1, 2 and 3 start with a loop, instead of a chain in the center. This technique has been clearly explained in a previous issue of Crochet me.
• The centers of flowers 1, 2 and 3 are worked in sc.
• Do not join rounds, except where indicated. Put a marker (e.g. a safety pin) in the first stitch of every round as a guide. Move this marker every round.

This pattern uses US terminology
Ch = chain
Sc = single crochet
Inc = increase, work 2 sts in the same st, increase made
Sl st = slip stitch
St(s) = stitch
Hdc = half double crochet
Dc = double crochet
Sc dec = single crochet decrease: insert hook into next st, yo, pull up loop, insert hook into following st, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Flower 1

Round 1: (fu

These Filet Crochet letter charts work up quickly and are a romantic addition to any table.

One of the beautiful aspects of Filet Crochet is that any hook/yarn combination that works together will create a completed piece in the pattern you select -- all that changes from one hook to the next is the size of your completed project. For that reason, you can create a small wine coaster and a larger matching doily for the wine bottle using the same thread and different hook sizes. You could even go up to a fingering weight yarn and an aluminum hook and use the same charts to create decorative monogram placemats.

Filet Crochet can also be worked a few different ways. Traditional filet uses {3 dc} for a block and {2 ch, 1 dc} for a space. However, you can also get a tighter, more closed-up effect by using {2 hdc} for a block and {1 ch, 1 hdc} for a space -- the coaster in the photograph is an example of hdc filet (#10 thread, 2.25mm Steel Hook).

Recycle those paper bookmarks you get for free at the bookstore. Chuck those decrepit woven things you've kept since childhood. Take a few minutes to crochet yourself a simple, elegant book thong that will make you feel like the sophisticated intellectual you know you are.

Small amount of size 10 cotton crochet thread

Size 7 (1.65 mm) steel crochet hook

Beads that will fit snugly over the crocheted chain (center hole of approximately 2mm)

Stitch marker

Needle with an eye large enough for the crochet thread

One size.

When you make a chain, the front looks like a series of Vs (and each V has a top and bottom loop) and the back looks like a series of bumps that forms a spine or ridge.

US pattern notations used
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet

Up one side:

You’re starting at the

This can be a doily, a tablecloth, a place-mat, a pillowcase or whatever you decide it to be. It all depends on which yarn you use, and how big you make it.

Note: This pattern uses US terminology

• Two balls of Schachenmayr Crazy Cotton (100% cotton, 125m/137 yards per 50g/1.75 oz ball). This is a so-called self-striping yarn. The colour changes give the plain square a soft, "hand-painted" look. Also, they make it more fun to work the piece!

• A 3 mm hook, to get a solid, yet not too stiff, fabric.

With two balls of Crazy Cotton, I ended up with a 34x34 cm/13.5x13.5 inch square.

This is a square made in the round! This means that the increases in every round are made in four, evenly spaced places, forming the corners. A "chain arch" of 3 ch in every corner keeps the angels straight, and creates nice eyelets.

1) All stitches are worked in the back loop only (except, of course, in round 1 and when stitches are worked around the "chain arches").

2) There is no extra chain in the beginning of each round. You start right off with a sc around the "chain arch". The aim is to make the change between rounds as unnoticeable as possible. For this very reason, it is useful to mark this first stitch by placing a marker (e.g., a safety pin) in it. When the round is finished, you join it with a slip stitch in the first stitch. You will notice that the loop forming the slip stitch will sit on top of the stitch it’s worked into. When you finish the subsequent round, you work the last stitch into the slip stitch. You simply work into every "loop" on top of the round below. As long as you mark that first stitch in the round, it’s very easy.

Getting started

I have a scarf that’s about ten feet long. I adore it. I can wrap it around my neck twelve times and it still hangs down to my knees. I like to wear it under my jacket when I’m outside in the cold, but stuffing the ends in my coat makes me look like Quasimodo. I like to wear it inside over my sweater, but when I lean over the ends slip over my shoulders and drag on the floor, or I shut them in the car door and the ends get soaked. Solution: get rid of the ends. Duh. The result is a cowl that is lacy enough to be worn with a nice sweater indoors, but bulky enough to keep your neck warm outside in the middle of winter.

• Opal Sock Yarn (425 meters/100 grams) in winter white, 1 skein (or any sock or fingering weight yarn)
• 3.25mm (size D) hook

One size.

Gauge is unimportant in this pattern.

Picot: Ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook.

Note: Ooh, it’s two looks in one pattern!  To make one of those popular mobius cowls, twist your starting chain 180 degrees before you connect the ends together.  It makes it look a little more interesting – a cowl with a twist!

Let's Begin!