Ribbed Sweater Hobo/Tote

I recently found an amazing bag picture on the web and it turned out the instructions were only in an obscure japanese mag that would have cost me an arm and a leg to order (not to mention... it's in japanese). Inspired, I decided to improvise a similar one that looks like a nice ribbed sweater.

Keep in mind that this project requires some (simple but unusual) assembly and that since it was improvised, it's not uber-precise. But it works! And it is a pretty forgiving design.

One skein of Bernat Super Value (7 oz) or any other worsted weight yarn
4mm hook - a hook one size smaller than the recommended size.

Fabric for lining, sewing supplies etc. *Please note that the instructions for the lining are not included! Many tutorials are available on the web, though :)

Crocheted in Bernat Super Value, the bag should measure approx. 15 inches wide and 12 inches high. Roomy!

Gauge is not critical for this project.

scblo - single crochet in back loop only
scblo2tog - scblo decrease. Insert hook in back loop of the first stitch, pull yarn, insert hook in back loop of 2nd stitch, pull yarn (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops.

For the decorative touches, slip stitch through fabric + bobbles (instructions are easy to find)

Body

Row 1: Ch 23, ch 1, turn

Row 2: sc in each ch across, ch 1, turn

Rows (3-8): 2 scblo in 1st st, scblo in next 5 st, 2 scblo in following stitch… continue increasing every 5 stitches for the rest of the rows, starting each new row the same way (with 2 scblo in the first stitch, then do 5 scblos etc). * These rows do not end evenly: if you have room for another double do it, if not simply continue with the next row.*Ch1, turn

Rows (9-12): scblo in each st across, ch1, turn

Row 13: Repeat row 3 technique, increasing every 5 stitches

Rows (14-15): scblo in each st across, ch1, turn

Row 16: Repeat row 3 technique, increasing every 5 stitches

Rows (17-20): scblo in each st across, ch1, turn

Row 21: Repeat row 3 technique, increasing every 5 stitches

Rows (22-40): scblo in each st across, ch1, turn
*This forms the first half and center of the bag’s body. Now we mirror our increase rows with decreases to get a symmetrical bag

Row 41: scblo2tog, scblo in next 5 st, scblo2tog… *the same principle as for row 3 applies here. Decrease every 5 st, and if the row ends unvevenly, either decrease if you have room, or don’t.

Rows (42-45): scblo in each st across, ch1, turn

Row 46: Repeat row 41 technique, decreasing every 5 st

Rows (47-48): scblo in each st across, ch1, turn
Row 49: Repeat row 41 technique, decreasing every 5 st

Rows (50-53): scblo in each st across, ch1, turn

Rows (54-59): Repeat row 41 technique, decreasing every 5 st.

Row 60 (*and potentially 61): Check to make sure you end-up with 23 st (one more or less won’t show). Work enough decreases to get that number (you may also add another row if you wish. This design is pretty forgiving.

Fasten off, weave in ends

The area directly underneath the handles (the two dc rows that would be below your armpit when wearing the bag):

Keeping in mind that the ribbing should be vertical, fold the bag the way it would be when finished and locate the center by counting the ribs from the edges.

From that center, use stitch markers to mark an area of 20 stitches ( 10 on each side of the center), in wich you will make:

----

Row 1: Join yarn, 20 sl st in center of bag’s body, ch 2, turn *Note that even though the next row is a dc row, I only chain 2)

Row 2: dc across. Ch 2, Turn.

Row 3: dc across, Fasten off

----

Rows 4-5-6: Mirror this on the other side of the bag, repeating rows 1-2-3

The all-around handles

With the bag folded and the ribs vertical, locate the place where you would attach the side points of the bag, basically the ends of the 1st and last rows of the body (this makes a round hole on each side).

Join these points together with the yarn and then start making sc all around the edge of the bag.
When you reach the top of the dc rows, ch 56 (handle1) and being careful not to twist the chain, continue sc along the other side, joining the points of the second side when you reach them.When you reach the top of the back of the bag, ch 56 (handle 2) and continue sc until you are back where you started.

Continue sc around for 2 more rows and when you are back where you started, sl st and fasten off. Weave in ends.

The hole plugs

The bag is almost complete but there are holes at each end. You can either sew them shut with yarn or (and I prefer this technique because it’s prettier), you can join the yarn at the top of the hole and crochet in spiral, making decreases every 3 st, then 2, etc, until the hole closes.
Another way to go about it would be to crochet in the round 2 discs that you can then attach there.

Decorative touches

I made the horizontal bar with 3 rows of slip stitches through the fabric, and then made two bobbles and attached them on each side. (You can easily find these techniques on the web if you don’t know them already)

I added a cotton lining with a few pockets: you can also find instructions for this easily on the web. This bag REALLY benefits from a lining, else it will stretch and take the shape of every object you put inside. I was surprised myself at how a simple lining solves this problem. Just watch out for the measurements: keep the opening tight enough to fit the fabric but lose enough to accommodate the stretch of the bag. Make sure you have a 3-dimentional box-type bottom so you have room to fill your bag!

Enjoy this unusual pattern!

Note: For other images please go to:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/28478581@N07/

Additional Options:
Try this pattern in different colors!
Beaded trim or your favorite decorative pins or appliques found at most craft stores.

--Lion Brand Yarn—Lion Suede (3 oz/122 yds/85g per ball)
--2 balls #126 (coffee)
--Size J10/6mm or size needed to obtain gauge
--Tapestry Needle
--Purse Handles (found at most craft stores)
--Floral Pin or Appliqué (found at most craft stores)
--Matching Accented Scarf (found at most clothing stores)

Body Length = 7 inches
Body Length with Overturned Edging = 9 inches
Base Length = 8 inches

14 sc = 4 inches; 8 sc rows = 2.5 inches

Option: A different variation on metallics can be achieved by using Patons Brilliant Yarns Line with the same hook size listed in the pattern.

Bottom
Rnd 1 Ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook to form a ring
Rnd 2 Ch 1, sc in ring, 5 more sc in ring, join to the first sc made [6 sc]
Rnd 3 Ch 1, sc in same stitch, another sc in same stitch, 2 sc in each stitch around, join to the first sc made[12 sc]
Rnd 4 Ch 1, 2 sc in same stitch, sc in next sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made [18 sc]
Rnd 5 Ch 1, 2 sc in same stitch, sc in next 2 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made [24 sc]
Rnd 6 Ch 1, 2 sc in same stitch, sc in next 3 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made [30 sc]
Rnd 7 Ch 1, 2 sc in same stitch, sc in next 4 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made [36 sc]
Rnd 8 Ch 1, 2 sc in same stitch, sc in next 5 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made [42 sc]
Rnd 9 Ch 1, 2 sc in same stitch, sc in next 6 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made [48 sc]
Rnd 10 Ch 1, 2 sc in same stitch, sc in next 7 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made [54 sc]
Rnd 11 Ch 1, 2 sc in same stitch, sc in next 8 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made [60 sc]
Rnd 12 Ch 1, 2 sc in same stitch, sc in next 9 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made [66 sc]
Rnd 13 Ch 1, 2 sc in same stitch, sc in next 10 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made [72 sc]
Rnd 14 Ch 1, 2 sc in same stitch, sc in next 11 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 11 sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made [78 sc]
Rnd 15 Ch 1, 2 sc in same stitch, sc in next 12 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made [84 sc]

Body
Rnd 16-–40 Ch 1, sc in each sc around, join to the first sc made
Rnd 41 Ch 1, sc in front loop of same stitch, sc in each front loop around, join to the first sc made
Rnd 42--45 Ch 1, sc in each sc around, join to the first sc made
Rnd 46 Ch 1, sc in same stitch, sc in the next 11 sc, *decrease over the next 2 sc, sc in the next 12 sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made
Rnd 47 Ch 1, sc in same stitch, sc in each sc around, join to the first sc made
fasten off

Handle Straps--Make 4
Row 1 Ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each sc across, turn

Attaching Handles
Fold bag in half, laying flat measure sides and center handles, place markers on each side to where handles would be attached. Repeat for the opposite side.

Using a dress pin, place one end of handle strap 1 on inner lining, 1/2 inches below the top opening of bag. Fold the handle strap through the purse metal loop and attach another pin to hold handle in place. Repeat for each side of handle. Sew the handle straps in place by using a tapestry needle and yarn.

Finishing
Weave in ends using a tapestry needle.

Care Instructions
Hand wash only
Roll in a towel and let air dry
Do not iron

Some wives make hats, sweaters, or scarves for their husbands, but I married a percussionist. Here is my first original design for a mallet bag. It's a wrap that rolls up and slides into a bag for easy transportation. When performing, the percussionist can roll out the wrap across a table or a couple of music stands, then when s/he picks up or puts down a pair of mallets, the wrap muffles any sound.

Pretty much any yarn will do – scraps would be ideal. I used Red Heart Super Saver that happened to be left over from other projects... I always buy extra in anticipation of returning some. However, my puppy got into my stash, chewed up and spat out the labels and mangled the balls, rendering them unreturnable!

I used 7 oz. (198 g), approx 364 yd (333 m) for the mallet wrap. The bag also required 7 oz. (198 g), approx 364 yd (333 m).

Crochet hook size H/8 – 5.00 mm (or size needed to obtain gauge)

Buttons: 2cm (3/4 in) for the wrap and optional 1.5 cm (5/8 in) for the bag

Wrap measures approximately 46 cm x 114 cm (18 in x 45 in). Carrying bag has a diameter of 18 cm (7 in) and a height of 48 cm (19 in).

6 sts & 5 rows in hdc = approx. 5 cm (2 in)… Gauge is not terribly important, but the bag will need to be wide enough to accommodate the length of the mallets.

This bag holds up to 22 pairs of marimba, xylophone, or vibraphone mallets. The pattern should be easy to adjust for a different number of pairs – simply add (or subtract) 12 stitches from the beginning chain for each 1 – 2 pairs of mallets you wish to add (or subtract). Mallets can be inserted individually or in pairs through the holders.

Note: Beginning ch. 2 counts as hdc throughout.

This pattern has not yet been tested, so if anyone else out there needs a mallet bag, please let me know how you get on with this!

Mallet Wrap
Row 1: Chain 148. Hdc in 3rd ch and every ch across. 147 sts. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1st hdc). Hdc in every st across. Turn.
Rows 3 – 12: Repeat row 2. Work should measure approx. 12 cm (4.5 inches).
Row 13: Ch 2. Hdc in next 14 sts. *Ch 2, skip next 2 hdc; hdc in next 10 hdc; Repeat from * across.
Rows 14 – 16: Repeat row 2.
Row 17: Ch. 2. Hdc in next 14 sts. **Ch 2, skip next 2 hdc; hdc in next 3 sts; ch 2, skip next 2 sts; hdc in next 5 sts. Repeat from ** across.
Row 18 – 20: Repeat row 2.
Row 21: Ch. 2. Hdc in next 19 sts. *Ch 2, skip next 2 hdc; hdc in next 10 hdc; Repeat from * across, ending with 1 hdc in each of last 5 sts.
Rows 22 – 30: Repeat row 2.
Rows 31 – 38: Repeat rows 13 – 20.
Rows 39 – 50: Repeat row 2.
Stitch a row of sc evenly around the entire edge. Sl st to join, then sl st. in each sc around. Finish off.
Add a closure strap – the length and width may vary depending on your preferences and the size of button you have lying around. Here is how I made mine:
Row 1: Ch 7. Turn. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn.
Rows 2 - 18: Ch. 1. Sc in each sc across. Turn.
Row 19: Ch. 1. Sc in next 2 sc. Ch 2, skip 2 sc. Sc in next 2 sc. Turn. (first buttonhole made)
Rows 20 – 25: Ch. 1. Sc. in each sc across. Turn.
Row 26: Repeat row 19.
Repeat rows 20 – 26 until you have made the desired number of buttonholes (so the bag can be closed tightly whether it is full, partially full, or almost empty).
Last row: Ch 1. Sc in each sc across. Finish off.
Finishing:
Sew strap about midway down the short edge that has the larger space before the mallet holes begin. Sew a button on to the centre of the strap near where it is joined to the bag.
Fill the bag with mallets and roll it up. Fold the strap back and fasten the last buttonhole to the button. Use a contrasting piece of yarn to mark the spot where the fold occurs. You need to attach one more piece, which the closure strap will pass under before folding back and attaching to the button.
To make this last piece (remember to adjust if you have made a wider closure strap than that listed): Ch 10. Turn. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. *Ch. 1, sc in each ch across. Turn. Repeat from * until your piece is the desired width (I used 4 rows). Attach this last piece at the place you marked, making sure the closure strap can pass underneath it.

Carrying Bag
Bottom:
Rnd 1: Form a ring (either chain 4 and join with a slip stitch, or use the Magic Adjustable Ring); ch 2, 11 hdc in ring, join with sl st in the top of the ch 2.
Rnd 2: ch 2 (still counts as first hdc), hdc in same st as ch 2, 2 hdc in each hdc around, join with sl st.
Rnd 3: ch 2, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in next hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, repeat from * around, join with sl st
Rnd 4: ch 2, hdc in next st, *2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 2 hdc, repeat from * around, join with sl st
Rnd 5: ch 2, hdc in next 2 st, *2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 3 hdc, repeat from * around, join with sl st
Rnd 6: ch 2, hdc in next 3 st, *2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 4 hdc, repeat from * around, join with sl st
Rnd 7: ch 2, hdc in next 4 st, *2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 5 hdc, repeat from * around, join with sl st
Rnd 8: ch 2, hdc in next 5 st, *2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 6 hdc, repeat from * around, join with sl st
At this point, check the diameter of your circle with the diameter of a full, rolled up wrap. If it appears that the circle is large enough, begin crocheting the sides. If the circle needs to be a little larger, continue working the bottom in the established pattern before moving on to the sides.
Sides:
Rnd 1: ch 2 (still counts as first hdc); hdc in back loop only of each stitch around. Join with sl st to beginning chain.
Rnds 2 - 41: ch 2 to begin each round, then either hdc in each st around and join with sl st, or ch 1, *skip next st, hdc in next st, repeat from * around and join with sl st. Choose your own system! If you wish to attach a button or buttons to the top of the bag ensure that you provide a space for it in one of the rows near the top of the bag.
Final rnd: ch 2, hdc in each st around, join with sl st.
Carrying strap:
Row 1: Ch 2, hdc in next 5 sts, turn.
Row 2 - 48: Ch 2, hdc in next 5 sts.
To attach carrying strap, sl st through the last row of the carrying strap and the unworked loops of Rnd 1 of the sides of your bag. Make sure your strap is straight and takes the shortest path from top to bottom of the bag before attaching.
Sew in all loose ends. If desired, attach a button or two to the top of the bag.

Hi all,

I just love all things cute! And to me this is just the cutest little purse. You can make it in any colour and its all one piece so it's really easy to make, ideal for beginners (like me!).

50g Pattons Double Knitting in colour of your choice

Buttons x 2 of your choice

Material of choice for lining

Iron on Hem Tape

Snap Fasteners

3 mm crochet hook

Darning needle/yarn needle

Sewing needle

Sewing thread in same colour as wool.

3 1/2" x 4 1/2" closed

5 1/2" x 4 1/2" open

don't worry about it for this simple little thing!

Ch - Chain
Sc - Single Crochet

Ch 26

Row 1: Sc in second chain from hook, sc in each ch across - 25 sc

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across - 25 sc

Row 3 - 56: Rep row 2.

Row 57: Slip stitch in each ch across, do not turn at end of row. Continue to slip stitch down the
side of the piece, across foundation row and other side of the piece.
Finish by joining with a slip stitch into first slip stitch.
Fasten off.

Lining

With sewing machine or sewing needle sew 1/2" seam around material of choice.

Use iron on hem tape to fix lining to crochet piece.

Finish by hand stitching lining to crochet piece.

Finishing

Count 20 rows from bottom of the piece, fold. - Main body

With darning needle and a length of wool, stitch sides together.

Attach Snap Fasteners.

Attach buttons of choice.

This rockin' baby blankie is perfectly cozy for the little star in your life!

Color A: 475 yd (preemie size) or 1275 yd (baby size) 5/bulky weight yarn
Color B: 250 yd (preemie size) or 650 yd (baby size) 5/bulky weight yarn
Color C: 175 yd (preemie size) or 425 yd (baby size) 5/bulky weight yarn
Size J-10 (6.0 mm) crochet hook
Yarn needle

22” x 22” (preemie), 36” x 36” (baby)

Not necessary.

1. Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. To avoid confusion, it may be helpful to circle the numbers corresponding to your size before beginning this project. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

2. Graph is worked in intarsia, with unused colors carried on wrong side of work throughout.

http://www.crochetkitten.com/files/Rock-a-Star_Baby_Blankie.pdf

In my bid to try and recycle things. I have been using alternatives to yarn. I have lots of the ribbon used to create bows around parcels, I'm not even sure what is called but florist use it to adorn bunches of flowers .They come in glorious range of colour.They are also waterproof and heatproof.
Using carrer bags is a great way of reducing waste. First you have to prepare the bags into a ball of plasticyarn. For instructions on how to do this,check out u tube .Once you have done that it's so simple , working with plastic is fun.

5mm crochet hook,
2og will make three coasters, a roll of ribbon will make alot.
Plastic bags
Scissors

The beauty of this pattern is that you decide how large you want it to be ,large placemat size, coaster size its up to you.

As with most of my patterns I free myself from the mantra always make a tension swatch.
Live a little its a coaster.

A simple pattern that just uses double crochet. A good pattern to introduce working in the round.

A simple pattern that just uses double crochet. A good pattern to introduce working in the round. Ever since I attended the crochet coral reef workshop in london, it highlighted how we are all contributing to the problem of plastic suffocating our world .Its my way to try and help the environment.

For patterns details
http://heldasland.blogspot.com/2008/06/free-crochet-coaster-patterns.htm...

I have made this set for my Step daughter Bec', it will be her birthday on the 24.04.

I wrote my own beret pattern, as I wanted to use 2 strands of 8 ply yarn for extra thickness (16 ply). You can use any old type of beret pattern available.

I have supplied a free pattern for the Beret and Scarf on my blog.
http://cats-rockin-crochet.blogspot.com/2008/04/crochet-ladybug-beret-an...

Materials
2 x 50 gm balls of 8 ply red
2 x 50 gm balls of 8 ply black
Small amount of white yarn, for sewing eyes.
Size 5.00 mm hook (US size H hook)
Size 4.00 mm hook (US size G hook)
Sewing needle

Instructions given are for a scarf approx 55 inches in length. Using 4 lady bugs on each end of the scarf (8 ladybugs in total)

Not important.

Stitches used are US sc and dc.

Scarf is worked beginning at neck part, then the lady bugs are attached to both ends of the neck part.
Instructions given are for a scarf approx 55 inches in length. Using 4 lady bugs on each end of the scarf (8 ladybugs in total)
Turning ch 3 is counted as the first dc in every row

Neck part
Holding 2 strands of black together and using 5.00 mm hook
Ch 15
work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 3 and turn (13 dc)
work 1 dc in next dc across, ch 3 and turn (13 dc)
repeat row 2 until you get 31 rows in total, or length desired. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Easy ladybug, less sewing

Holding 2 strands of red yarn together and using 5.00 mm hook
You can either make a magic circle to begin, or a ch 2 then sc into the 2nd ch from the hook. The magic ring gives you a beginning that is closed tightly.
Do not join rounds.

Work 6 sc into ring
2 sc in each sc around (12 sc)
1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around (18 sc)
1 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around (24 sc)
1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around (30 sc)
1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around (36 sc)
1 sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around (42 sc)
sl st to join.

Head is worked as a half circle
Holding 2 strands of black and using 5.00mm hook
work 3 sc into ring, ch 1 and turn
2 sc into each sc to end, ch 1 and turn (6 sc)
1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat across (9 sc) fasten off
Attach head to body.

The back split is worked in sc through the red body.

Using a single strand of black and a size 4.00 mm hook attach yarn to the centre area of the head closest to the red body, sc evenly down the length of body.

Black spots are made in 2 sizes; the smaller is attached to the upper body and the larger to the lower body.

Make 2 small dots, using a single strand of black and using size 4.00 mm hook.
Work 4 sc into a ring, fasten off leaving a length for sewing.

Make 2 large dots, using a single strand of black and using size 4.00 mm hook.
Work 4 sc into a ring, do not join, work 2 sc into each sc around (8 sc), fasten off leaving a length for sewing.
Attach dots to body. Sew eyes into head.

Single strand Ladybug more sewing.............
Made in 4 parts using a single strand of yarn and a size 4.00 mm hook

Black body

Work 6 sc into ring
2 sc in each sc around (12 sc)
1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around (18 sc)
1 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around (24 sc)
1 sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around (30 sc)
1 sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around (36 sc)
1 sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat around (42 sc)
sl st to join.

Black head
Work 3 sc into ring, ch 1 and turn
2 sc into each sc across, ch 1 and turn (6sc)
1 sc into next sc, 2 sc into next sc, repeat to end ch 1 and turn (9 sc)
1 sc into next 2 sc, 2 sc into next sc, repeat to end ch 1 and turn (12 sc)

Attach head to body.

Red Wings, make 2

Work 3 sc into ring, ch 1 and turn
2 sc into each sc across, ch 1 and turn (6sc)
1 sc into next sc, 2 sc into next sc, repeat to end ch 1 and turn (9 sc)
1 sc into next 2 sc, 2 sc into next sc, repeat to end ch 1 and turn (12 sc)
1 sc into next sc 3, 2 sc into next sc, repeat to end ch 1 and turn (15 sc)
1 sc into next sc 4, 2 sc into next sc, repeat to end ch 1 and turn (18 sc)
1 sc into next sc 5, 2 sc into next sc, repeat to end (21 sc)
Fasten off leaving a medium sized tail for sewing on 1st wing and a longer tail for sewing on the 2nd wing.

Attaching wings (face wings together so tails meet each other) firstly using smaller tail for sewing, sew wings together from the sewing tail to the centre circle of the wing only, cut yarn.
Attach wings to the body using the longer tail, begin at the top centre of the body, sew around the outer part of the first wing then up into the upside down v shaped part of the wing, then the outer part of the wing to where you began, finishing off sewing down the centre join of the wing. (Wings attached to the body.)

Black spots are made in 2 sizes; the smaller is attached to the upper body and the larger to the lower body.

Make 2 small dots, using a single strand of black and using size 4.00 mm hook.
Work 4 sc into a ring, fasten off leaving a length for sewing.

Make 2 large dots, using a single strand of black and using size 4.00 mm hook.
Work 4 sc into a ring, do not join, work 2 sc into each sc around (8 sc), fasten off leaving a length for sewing.

Attach dots to body. Sew eyes into head

I attached my ladybugs heads facing upwards, the very top of the head was sewn to the very bottom of the body.
See pictures for more detail.

See my blog for more pictures.

http://cats-rockin-crochet.blogspot.com/2008/04/crochet-ladybug-beret-an...

Chain 4 DC in the 4th chain 3 turn

Row 2:
(do not skip the first chain) place a DC in the stitch right next to the hook and DC all the way across until the turning chain Place 2 DC. Chain 3 and turn

Repeat (row 2) 18 times when you have finished the last chain slp stitch

Edging:
Place Hdc all along the edge and place 3 HDC in the top on the kerchief and continued down the other side and continue across the bottom chain 42 and end the tie

Join yarn with slipstitch to the opposite corner chain 42 and the end off.
__________________

Any type yarn will work
J hook or I hook

It will fit all my kids they range from ages 8,6, and 4 and my self who is 31

No gauge

I was inspired to make this by the spring flowers coming up in my yard. Daffodils have a really neat shape that translates well into crochet. You could sew a pin onto the back of one to make a brooch, sew one onto a tote to make a nice spring bag, or twist a green pipecleaner through the back to make a stem and stick a bunch into a vase.

Size F US/4.0mm crochet hook
Yarn needle
Caron Simply Soft acrylic yarn in white (petals) and yellow (cup)

Flower is about 5" wide

Gauge is not important in this project, just be sure that the fabric is tight enough so you do not have large holes in your petals.

I crocheted these in yellow and white, but daffodils come in a wide variety of colors, so use your imagination!

center (make 1):
Ch 12, join to beginning to make a circle.
Sc in each of 12 chs. Do not join rounds, and work in a spiral instead, single crocheting in each stitch around until center piece is a tube about an inch long.

(sc, hdc, dc) in each stitch around for one round to make the ruffled edge. Tie off yarn and weave in ends.

petals (make 6):
Ch 4
Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across - 3 st. ch 1 and turn.
Sc 2 in first stitch. sc in next stitch. sc 2 in last stitch. There should be 5 stitches. ch 1 and turn.
Sc 2. sc in next 3 stitches. sc 2 in last stitch. There are 7 stitches in this row. ch 1 and turn.
Work next 4 rows even.
Sc in second stitch from hook. Sc next two stitches together. Sc in next stitch. Sc next two stitches together. Sc in last stitch. Ch1 and turn.
Sc in second stitch from hook. Sc next two stitches together. Sc next two stitches together. Ch 1 and turn.
Sc in second stitch from hook. Sc next two stitches together. Ch 1 and turn.
Sc two remaining stitche together. Tie off yarn. You should have a petal-shaped piece as shown below.

The edges of your petal will be rough, so join the yarn at bottom of petal. Working along the edge of the petal, pick up and sc 11 stitches. In the space at the top of the petal, sc 3 times. Pick up and sc 11 stitches down the other side of the petal. Tie off yarn and weave in ends. The edges of your petal should now be even and finished-looking.

Sew petals together to create the back of the flower.

Sew center onto the flower, and weave in all ends.

This is a pattern I came up with, to protect my new toy... A Casio EXILIM digital Camera. I received it in the mail and didn't have a cover to protect it. I made my own.
The cozy is made of left over yarns in my stash.
It is a good gift idea and works up in less than half an hour.

Cascade 220 (Light Teal)
LionBrand Homespun (Black)

Approximate Length 4"
Approximate Width 3"

3 sc and 3 rows = 1" (approximately) in heavier yarn.

Crochet Hook Size: US K / 6.5 mm (For Homespun)
US D / 3.25 mm (For Cascade 220)

Abbreviations:
Single Chain (sc/ scs) (I directed a video to demonstrate the stitch which is available from you tube - left handed and right handed)
Half Double Crochet (hdc) (Video available here on you tube.)
Chain (ch)
Inches ( " )

I worked the cozy in two yarn weights Heavier (Color A - Homespun) and Lighter (Color B - Cascade)

(Note: The pattern can be adopted to fit any camera/ cellphone/ Mp3 music player etc simply by checking the dimensions of the object it is being made for and then increasing the base chain numbers accordingly.)

* With Color A and K hook ch 11, turn. (11th chain will count for turning.)
* SC in the second chain from hook, * sc across to the end (total 10 scs). Ch 1 turn
* Repeat from * till the piece is exactly double the width of the camera. (My camera is 3.5", so my rectangular piece measured 7"). Bind off A.
* Join the Color B in the last sc of the previous row. Fold the rectangular piece in half and start sc through both layers from this corner down to the sides (Both layers of the piece will be joined on the sides using this edge.) then the bottom and then the corner of the other side. We now have a nice edge around 3 sides of piece. Use 1ch or 2scs to turn corners.
* Now we will work on the open edges in the round. ch 1, 2 scs with B in each sc of A (Total 40 scs around.) Join in the first ch1 using slip stitch.
* * ch 2, hdc in each sc around. Join with slip st to the first ch2. (total 40scs around.)
* Repeat from * for 3 more rows.
* ch2, 3hdc in the next 3scs, 1ch and skip next sc, *4hdc in the next 4 scs, 1ch and skip next sc. Repeat from * to the end. Join with slip stitch to the first chain 2. Bind off. The holes created in the last row will be used for the closure string.

To make the closure string

* Take Color B, 4 times the actual length that will be required for the pouch edge leaving two ends of atleast 2-4" each.
* Fold the length of B in half and secure one end. (I put the folded end in one of my toes) and twist it between your palms.
* Once the half length is twisted hold both ends together (thus resulting in another half fold of the already half length) and free the other end. The yarn will self twist to form a nice cord.
* Now thread this cord through the holes created in the last row of the cozy alternating drawing direction. (From outside to inside once and visa versa till the end.)
* Join the loose ends together with a knot to form a loop.