Let me just relay a few warnings before attempting this pattern. Firstly, I'm the only person who has made it; I've made it twice, so if you find any errors, I apologize for it in advance. You're welcome to leave me comments if you find any errors (or if you just feel like leaving me some ;-o ).
This pattern is fairly crude and sort of awkward, but once you start with it, you get the point and can go off on your own, I'm sure. If you have any questions, please ask, but I can't guarantee a helpful answer. Okay, now that my disclaimer is complete, here goes nothing:

Size 10 Thread
Size 5 / 1.7mm Steel Crochet Hook

3" long
1 7/8" at widest part

n/a

Notes: ch 3 counts as first dc throughout
dec = decrease

Row 1: ch 4, 1 dc in first chain, turn
Row 2: ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in next dc, turn
Row 3: ch 3, dc in same st, 1dc in ea next 2 dc, 2 dc in
last dc, turn
Row 4: ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc,
1 dc in ea next 2 dc, 2 dc in last dc, turn
Row 5: ch 3, dc in same dc, dc in ea next 3 dc, 2 dc in next
dc, 1 dc in ea next 3 dc, 2 dc in last dc, turn
Row 6: ch 3, dc in ea dc across (12dc)
Row 7: ch 3, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, (1 dc in next
2 dc, 2 dc in next dc), repeat until end; only 1 dc in
last dc, turn
Row 8: ch 2 (first hdc), hdc in same dc, hdc in next 2 dc,
2 hdc in next dc, 1 hdc in ea next 7 dc, 2 hdc in next
dc, 1 hdc in next 2 dc, 2 hdc in last dc, turn
Row 9: ch 3, dc in next hdc, dec over next 6 hdc (2 sts at a
time), 2 dc in next hdc, dec over next 8 dc (2 sts at
a time), 1 dc in ea last 2 hdc, turn
Row 10: ch 3, dc in next dc, (dec over next 2 dc, dc in next
dc) across, 1 dc in last 3 dc, turn
Row 11: ch 1, sc in ea dc across, turn
Row 12: ch 1, sk first sc, sc in each sc across, sl st in
last sc, turn
Row 13 - 15: Repeat Row 12; but at the end of Row 15,
continue around edges to make it smooth, sl st
to first sc.
Finish off.
Starch as needed.

Hello! This is my first posted pattern to this site!

I had originally designed these to be earrings, but they turned out a liiiiittle to big for my taste (but can certainly still be worn as earrings)!

Instead, these little guys have solved my problem of how to decorate my 4 foot basement-suite-sized Christmas tree this winter!

"Normal" sized snowflakes always looked WAY too big for a small tree, so these are awesome for anyone with mini trees in the house!!!

small amount of white cotton crochet thread (way less than a ball)
1.6mm/US6 steel hook, or 1.25mm/US8 if you can swing it
scissors

*OPTIONAL*
fabric stiffener
piece of cardboard (not the thin kind)
piece of wax paper
protractor
ruler
pen
pins (lots)
makeup sponge
bowl
glitter if you want

approximately 5 cm / 2 inches small

gauge is too tiny to note - they're all supposed to be different anyway! have fun with it!!

normal shorthand used

Ch 4 loosely, sl st in 1st ch to join

Rnd 1: Ch 1, work 6 sc in ch 4 loop, sl st to 1st sc.

Rnd 2: Ch 7, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, ch 2, sc in next sc, *ch 5, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, ch 2, sc in next sc* around, join with a sl st to 2nd ch of ch 7.

Rnd 3: Ch 6, slip stitch in 2nd and 3rd chain from hook, ch 4, slip st in slip st made just before you chained 4, ch 3, sl st in 2nd and 3rd ch from hook, then slip st in 2 ch of the original 6 chains made at the beginning of this round (should still be one chain stitch left). This makes one of those three pointed end things.
Next, ch 6, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, ch 3, then dc in next sc.
Next, (making a three pointed thing again) *ch 5, slip stitch in 2nd and 3rd ch from hook, ch 4, slip st in slip st made just before you chained 4, ch 3, sl st in 2nd and 3rd ch from hook and in remaining 2 chs of the ch 5, sl st in dc last made.
This makes another three pointed thing, now and throughout. It is the same as the first one made, only with a ch-5 base instead of ch-6!
Next, ch 6, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, ch 3, dc in next sc, repeat from * around, ending with a sl st to 2nd ch of starting ch 6 intstead of dc.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

OPTIONAL STIFFENING INSTRUCTIONS

If you want your snowflakes symmetrical at all times, you may want to stiffen them, the ones in the picture are stiffened so that is what they will look like more or less. I will post pictures of what this looks like if it is too confusing!!

Step 1: For this, you will want to take your piece of cardboard and draw one line lengthwise down the centre.
Step 2: Use the protractor and mark at 60 and 120 degrees on each side. Join the marks and you have your six points! You can make as many on the cardboard as you have room.
Step 3: put wax paper over cardboard and pin snowflakes to the cardboard along the lines. This may take some practice; experiment with tension and number of pins. Stretching it out and using many pins will make the snowflake look delicate and very even. Loose pinning with only a few pins will make the
snowflake smaller and more varied...
Step 4: pour some fabric stiffener (I use water soluble) into a bowl and dab it on with the make up sponge.
Step 5: (optional) sprinkle some glitter over while it's still wet - let sit to dry!!

you can save glitter by folding the wax paper after and pouring excess back into the container :)

A reuse cotton yarn for a makeup purse.
I had a few yarn with mingled colors (blue, yellow, pink and green).
Started by filling the first plastic rings with 30 sc each, and linked them all.
Next I did 6 chains and inserted the hook under any chain on the first plastic ring and did a slip stitch; then 10 chains until the next ring, until the last ring. After the slip stitch on the last ring, I did 6 chains.
On the next rows, I worked in dc, and some rows in cross dc.

Cotton yarn nº12
crochet hook (3 mm)
6 plastic rings with 2 cm diameter

width - 11 cm (4.3")
height - 8 cm (3.15")(closed) 20 cm (7.87")(opened)

12 sts x 9 rows of dc = 1.57" (4 cm)

I have a niece that just turned 6 months. I have so far crocheted 3 dresses for her of different styles but now I thought it was time to come up with a pattern of my own. It is not difficult at all, and I'm sure there are others who have come up with the same pattern themselves, but since I haven't seen it posted somewhere I thought I might as well share it here. When the dress/skirt was almost finished I started looking for buttons, but I couldn't find any. I used my imagination and took two buttons of the same size although they had different colors and then I used a glittery yarn to crochet over the buttons and they actually look kind of cool, like insect eyes or something.

hook size 3,5

I used 3 balls of Marks & Kattens organic cotton. 50g / 120 meters (1,8 oz /131 yards). 2 brown (A) and 1 pink (B).

1 ball of red metal yarn (C)

2 buttons 2 centimeters diameter (0,8 inches)

you can easily adjust the size by increasing chain to begin with and then add rounds to make it longer. If you follow the pattern with the same yarn I used (or the same kind!) the brace skirt will fit babies 6-9 months.

14-15 hdc (width) and 12 hdc + 4cs rows (height) = 10 cm (4")

It is not that important though!

In edging: hold B and C together and sc round all edges except for immediately under the arm. Instead, leave long piece of C and when fastening C embroider it round the edge there. It's hard for me to explain but I think you'll understand when you get there. The pink slip stitch is on one side and the edging would be too thick otherwise.

ch - chain
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
st -stitch
sl st - slip stitch
ch col - change color
hdc2tog - half double crochet two stitches together (just decrease two hdc into one)

Front

Ch 75 (or as many as you want) with color A

1. Sc in second from hook. (74)
2. Ch 3. Turn. Hdc in next st, ch 1 *hdc in second from hook, ch 1* repeat from *-* across. If you look at the row you just made there should be a hdc in every other st.
3 -5. Repeat 2.

6. Ch col to B, ch 1, turn, sc in next st, *ch 1, sc in second from hook,* repeat from *-* across. It is the same as 2-5 only you do sc instead of hdc, so it is still in every other gap.
7. Repeat.

8-11. Ch col to A. Repeat row 2.

12-13. Repeat row 6.

Continue until you reach desired length of the skirt (it should reach up to the babys belly button or a little higher). If you like you can start with a wider chain and then decrease 2 st occasionally. My brace skirt has 36 rounds and is a pretty good length for the half-year-old. That means 6 A color sections and 5 B color sections.

37. Ch col to B, sl st 7 (2 in every "gap"). *ch 1, sc in second from hook,* repeat from *-* until there are 4 gaps left, then sl st 7 and cut yarn.

38. In 5th gap from edge, sl st with B, ch 1, sc 1 in same st. *ch 1, sc in second from hook,* repeat from *-* until 5 gaps remains. (25 or 26 sc)

39. Ch col to A. Ch 3, turn. *hdc in second from hook, ch 1* repeat from *-* across

40-42. Hdc2tog on each side, otherwise as 39.

43-44. Ch col to B, ch 1, turn, sc in next st, *ch 1, sc in second from hook,* repeat from *-* across. NO DECREASE

45-46. Ch col. Repeat round 40.

47 -48. Ch 3. Turn. Hdc in next st, ch 1 *hdc in second from hook, ch 1* repeat from *-* across.

49-50. Repeat 43-44.

51-54. Repeat 47-48. Fasten off.

Back

Chain 85, or as many as you like. I like the back to be a little wider than the front but if you don't that's ok!

1-37. Follow pattern for front.

38. In 14th gap sl st, ch 1, sc in same st, *ch 1 sc in next gap* repeat *-* 11 times until you have 13 sc.

39-42. Ch col to A. Ch 3, turn. *hdc in second from hook, ch 1* repeat from *-* across

43-44. Ch col to B, ch 1, turn, sc in next st, *ch 1, sc in second from hook,* repeat from *-* across.

45-48. Repeat 39-42.

49-50.Repeat 43-44.

51-54.Repeat 39-42.

55-56.Repeat 43-44.

57. Ch col to A. Ch 3, turn. *hdc in second from hook, ch 1* repeat from *-* until you have 6 hdc.

58-60. Ch 3, turn. *hdc in second from hook, ch 1* repeat from *-* until you have 6 hdc.

60-61. Ch col to B. ch 1, turn, sc in next st, *ch 1, sc in second from hook,* repeat from *-* across.

63-85. Repeat 57-62.

86. Ch col to A.Ch 3, turn. *hdc in second from hook, ch 1* repeat from *-* until you have 6 hdc.

87. Ch 3, hdc in next gap, ch 3, skip 2 gaps (this is the hole for the button) hdc, ch 1, hdc

88. Ch 3, hdc in next gap, *hdc in "button gap" ch 1* twice, hdc, ch 1 hdc

89. Ch 3, Hdc2tog on each side

90. Ch 3, hdc2tog. Fasten off.

Back to row 56. Repeat 57-90 on other side.

Edging

Take one strand of B and one strand of C. Sc around edges. Also: see notes!

Buttons

Do not join rounds, work in a spiral!
Ch 2 with C.
1. 6 sc in second from hook to make a ring or use a magic ring. (6)
2. 2 dc in every st. (12)
3. 1 sc, 2 sc in next (18)
4. sc in every st (18)
5. 1 sc, sc2tog (12)
Time to put the button in place!
6. 2sctog until you have 3-4 st left. Fasten off.

Assembling

Put the front and back with right side inwards (just decide youself which side that is or look at the sl st from row 37). Either crochet the dress together with sc or sew it together with a strand or color A.

Sew buttons in place.

Well, that's pretty much it! If there are any problems, tell me and I'll try to explain...

This is my first stab at a crochet pattern. I wanted to make a square design in the round. I had found plenty of patterns for working from the middle out, but I could not find any for working outside in, so I printed a grid chart and got to work figuring out how to do it.

This pattern can be used as a coaster, like the sample, a dishcloth, or, if you stop after a round or two, a cute picture frame.

I will first give the pattern used for this specific sample, and then give a formula you can use to make a square of any size.

Any yarn you desire using any size hooks you wish.

For this sample, I used Sugar 'N Cream yarn with a size J-10 hook.

This sample ended up being 5 x 4.5 inches.

Gauge isn't important for this pattern.

This pattern uses slip stitch, single crochet, and decreases.

Chain 69 and join for a ring. Make sure chain is not twisted when joined.

Round 1 - Skip first ch. (Dec over 2 ch. 10 sc. Dec over 2 ch. Skip 3 ch.)* Repeat 3 times. Dec over 2 ch. 10 sc. Dec over 2 ch. Skip 2 ch.

Round 2 - (Dec over next two sts. 8 sc. Dec over next two sts.)* Repeat 4 times.

Round 3 - (Dec over next two sts. 6 sc. Dec over next two sts.)* Repeat 4 times.

Round 4 - (Dec over next two sts. 4 sc. Dec over next two sts.)* Repeat 4 times.

Round 5 - (Dec over next two sts. 2 sc. Dec over next two sts.)* Repeat 4 times.

Round 6 - (Dec over next two sts. Dec over next two sts.)* Repeat 4 times.

Round 7 - (Dec over next two sts.)* Repeat 4 times.

Round 8 - (Dec over next two sts.)* Repeat twice.

Round 9 - Dec over remaining two sts.

Finish work by weaving ends in.

This will give you a square of 18 stitches by 18 stitches.

If you wish to make a larger or smaller square, follow this formula:

(x * 4) - 3 = ch, where x equals the number of stitches you want per side and ch equals the length of the chain to start with.

For the first row, after chaining and joining: skip the first ch, (Dec, (x - 8) sc, Dec. Skip 3 ch.)* Repeat 3 times. Dec, (x - 8) sc, Dec. Skip 2 ch.

For each row afterword reduce the sc in each section by 2.

This hat began as a doodle during my travels up to Vermont to see my folks. I was playing with my favorite old doily pattern - The Plate Doily, from 1917. As the doodle grew, it was feeling really nice in my hands; a good floppy drape, but sturdy.
It grew throughout the weekend. At a concert a friend asked what I was making. I said I don't know, probably a hat! I decided to put a brim on it when I got home, and Voila! a sun hat!

E - 3.5mm hook
less that 200 yards fingering weight cotton thread (I used Numei cotton breeze, color: shell)
yarn needle

hat measures 7 inches, 18 cm wide at top, 3 inches,7.5 cm high for the side, and the brim is 2 inches, 5 cm wide. My head is 22 inches, 56 cm around and it fits me well, a little on the snug side so it stays on in the wind, but does not leave it's mark on my forehead when I take it off!!

6 sc per inch, 6 sc per 2.5 cm

The reason I love The Plate Doily Pattern is that you really get into a rhythm once you get to know it. It progresses with a very simple logic that is easy to follow.

The pattern is worked in two parts.

Part one - increase one sc between each ch3 loop for each round
Part two - decrease one sc between loops and increase 1 ch3 loop per round

The pattern is worked in the round with no joining or turning.

Now you know the basic logic behind the pattern and you are free to play with it as you like!

Okay! My work is done.

Ha! Ha! Just kidding!

Below is a full round by round write up of my sun hat!

worked in the round with no joining or turning
mark the first stitch of each round to keep track of rounds

Top of hat

note -
You can adjust the width of the hat by adding or subtracting rounds before round 11.
Continue the pattern of increase if you add rounds.

1. 8 sc in magic ring, or work 8 sc in a loop made of ch3 joined with a slip stitch if you must!
2. 2sc in each sc around
3. (sc, sk 1 sc, ch1) repeat around
4. (2sc in next sc, skip ch1 loop, ch2) repeat around
note - always skip the ch loop unless otherwise stated
5. (sc in next 3 sc, ch2) repeat around
6. (sc in next 4 sc, ch2) repeat around
7. (sc in next 5 sc, ch3*) repeat around *note loops are ch3
8. (sc in next 6 sc, ch3) repeat around
9. (sc in next 7 sc, ch3) repeat around
10. (sc in next 8 sc, ch3) repeat around
11. repeat round 10
12. (sc in next 7 sc, ch3, sc in next ch3 loop)* repeat around
*note sc in next ch 3 loop means place the sc around the ch3, not in any one stitch
13. (sc in next 6 sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 loop)2x ) repeat around
14. (sc in next 5 sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 loop)3x ) repeat around
15. (sc in next 4 sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 loop)4x ) repeat around
16. (sc in next 3 sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 loop)5x ) repeat around
17. (sc in next 2 sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 loop)6x ) repeat around
18. (sc in next 1 sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 loop)7x ) repeat around
19. (sc in next ch3 loop, ch3) repeat around
20. (sc in next ch3 loop, ch2*) repeat around *note loops are ch2
21. (sc in next ch2 loop, ch1*) repeat around *note loops are ch1

Side of hat

note -
You can adjust the height of the hat by adding or subtracting rounds in this part.

22-25. ((sc in next ch1 loop, ch1)x7), ch3 repeat around
26-30 ((sc in next ch1 loop, ch1)x5), (ch3, skip 1 ch1 loop, sc in next ch1 loop)x2) repeat around

Brim of hat

note -
If you prefer a less ruffly brim, make fewer stitches in round 32
ie (2sc in next sc, sc in next 2 or 3 sc) instead

31. sc in each sc and ch1 loop around
32. (2sc in next sc, sc in next sc) repeat around
33. sc around
34. (2sc in next sc, sc in next 5sc) repeat around
35. sc around
36. (sc in next sc, skip next 2 sc, ch3) repeat around
37. repeat round 35

I hope the directions are clear and that you have fun with this pattern!

Toesies are great for any time of the year because you just slip them on your toes and they will warm you up! They are especially nice for sleeping if you have cold toes since there is no messing around with extra sheets or covers. Toesies are pretty much the toe part of a pair of socks but a lot comfier.

They can also be used for your fingers on cold winter days.

Multicolored sock yarn
Other yarn of your choice of colors that will complement the sock yarn colors.
Size J crochet needle
Yarn needle

My feet are wide so this is what they are, 2 1/2 in or 7cm tall; 4 in or 9 cm in the middle.

NO GAUGE

Using both the sock yarn and the other yarn make a slip knot then chain 2 stitches. Circular crochet until is a little bit smaller than your foot. Then start doing single crochet until it's a little bit longer than the ball of your foot. Then decrease each round until you can still put it on but it fits snugly.

REPEAT FOR SECOND TOESIE.

Dainty cotton necklace for your spring/summer nights out!
Make it with a wool yarn and it's fine even in winter times!
This is easier to make than to explain, so if you have problems with the pattern just drop me a line and I'll be pleased to help you!
Thanks for looking!

4.00mm hook
Cream White Cotton yarn (worsted weight) for the flower
Green Cotton yarn (worsted weight) for the stems and ring

no size, this is like a lariat

no gauge, just use some worsted weight cotton yarn

Crochet Ring:
Wind the yarn 5 times around the left hand's forefinger and the middle finger.
Insert
the hook under the 5 strands in the direction of the palm, yarn over
hook and fasten the strands with a simple crochet stitch.
Work 24 sc in the ring made by the 5 strands.
Sl st to first sc to close ring.
Don't cut the yarn.

Three Stems with Leaves:
1st Stem: Chain 115.
Leaf: Sc
in second chain from hook, 1hdc, 1dc, 1 hdc, 1sc. Turn and work 1sc,
1hdc, 1dc, 1hdc, 1sc in the opposite side of the just worked stitches.
Sl st to first sc to close the leaf. Cut yarn and weave in end.
2nd Stem: Attach yarn on the sc of the ring that is next to the first stem chain. Chain 105.
Work as for the first leaf.
3rd Stem: Attach yarn on the sc of the ring that is next to the second stem chain. Chain 125.
Work as for the first leaf.

The Flower:
Bottom Layer:
Chain 3, sl st to make ring.
Chain 3 and work 11 dc in ring. Sl st to third chain of beginning ch3. (12dc)
*4dc in next dc, sc in next dc*. Repeat from * but ending with a sl st on last dc to close round.
Cut yarn and weave in end.
Top layer:
Chain 4, sl st to make ring.
*Chain 3 and sc in ring*, repeat from* four times more. Sl st to close round. (You'll have 5 petals)
Work in each chain loop of previous round: 1sc, 3dc, 1sc.
Cut yarn and weave in end.
Sew the two flower leyers together, the top layer on the bottom one, and sew a nice button on the center.

Finishing:
Sew
the flower between the ring and the three stems chains, leaving a space
in the ring through which you'll pass the three strands to fasten you
necklace around your neck!

The shawl is made with the cotton yarn and the lovers' knot - ideal for the beach cover up or during the cooler summer evenings. What I love about this project is how sensual it looks on the female body. The neutral color (ecru) goes with any outfit.

*130 grs cotton yarn (the original is a cotton "Butterfly Super 10" made in Greece) of medium size
*crochet needle size G/6 (4.0)

width = 62' (155 cm)

The gauge is not necessary in this project. You can make the shawl bigger or smaller depending on the length of the initial chain. The original length (62 inch.) permits to tie the shawl around the hips or the shoulders of most sizes from XS to XXL.

For how to work the lovers' knot pattern (also called Salomon's knot) you can check this online tutorial:
www.crochet.com.ar/Coleccion_Puntos/Puntosalomon.html (in Spanish)

Initiate with the chain of 62 inches or 155 cm (you can regulate the length of the chain depending on your taste).

Begin working in lovers' knot DECREASING one knot on each side until there is only one knot at the end. Cut the yarn off and hide.
The model does not need the finishing, the edges are beautiful by themselves.
Cut the resting yarn in pieces of 28 inches (70 cm) or as long as you like. Take two and tie in half every second knot except the widest edge.

Here is a free pattern of a headband I made up last month. This one could again serve as a good stash busting project and can be worked in any yarn with a suitable crochet hook.

4.0mm Hook (US Size G)
Peaches & Creme Article 930 HC 4 Ecru

Can be worked less or more as per individual's size.

Not important.

Abbreviations: sc: Single Chain
ch: chain
dc: double crochet
yo: yarn over
sc: single chain

Step 1. Chain 41
Step 2: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across till the second last ch. (We have worked one open edge of the base chain.)
Step 3: ch3, 5dc in the same last ch. Turn. (This is the beginning of the broader portion of the headband.)
Repeat Step 3, 24 more times. (Total 25 repeats.)
Step 4: ch3, yo draw through ch3 below, /*yo draw through first 2 loops on hook*/ yo draw through last dc, repeat from /* to */
Step 5: yo draw through ch 3 below, repeat from /* to */ 2 more times.
Step 6: yo draw through all loops on hook.
Step 7: ch 1 to lock all loops.
Step 8: ch 41
Step 9: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in all subsequent chains to the end (40 sc)
Step 10: / ch 3, * 2 sc in the next space on side of headband, 3 sc in the next space /
Step 11: Repeat from / to / till all spaces on one side of headband are covered.
Step 12: { ch3, sc in the back loop of the side chain, sc in the back loop of each base chain to the end, bind off }
Step 13: join yarn on the last sc (place where the tie string transforms into the main headband) on the side of the headband that has not been framed by sc yet.
Step 14: Repeat from { to }
Step 15: Weave in ends.