I've been tossing this idea about for a while and I finally did it.
It took me all of 2 hours to make two of these and write the pattern.
I love the bullion st and placing it in this position on the neck warmer makes it look like a big flower.
Don't worry the pattern is all in one and very simple to make.
I am choosing to hide the buttons from view as not to spoil the bullion effect.
I am sure there will be more varieties of this one, such as colour effects a larger hole in the centre of the flower to accommodate a very nice centre peice button and the idea's go on and on.

Bullion St. Neckwarmer/Scarflette/Scarf

Materials: 12 ply yarn (worsted weight) less than 50 gms
5.00 mm hook (H/8)
thicker version 16 ply yarn (bulky weight)
6.00 mm hook (J/10)

N/A

Special Stitches: Bullion st, yarn over hook 5 times, insert hook into st, pull up a loop pull through all 6 loops on hook. BLO = work stitch into the back loop only, of st indicated DC = Yarn over hook, insert hook into st, pull up a loop, yarn over hook, pull through 2 st’s, yarn over hook and pull through 2 st’s again. Sc= Insert hook into st, pull up a loop, yarn over hook and pull through both loops on hook.

Begin.
Ch 4, sl st to first chain to form a ring

Ch 3, 10 dc into ring, sl st into first dc to join (not ch 3)

Ch 1, 1 sc in same place as join, ch 2, 1 sc in next dc, *ch 2, 1 sc in next dc*, repeat to end, ch 2 and sl st into first sc of this round

Ch 3, *1 bullion st into ch 2 space, 1 bullion st into sc st*, repeat to final ch 2 space, sl st to top of ch3

Ch 3, work 2 dc in space between ch 3 and 1 bullion st, work 2 dc in next space between the bullion st’s, work 2 dc in next 3 spaces between bullion st’s, ( 1 x ch 3 and 10 x dc in total) ch 3 and turn

Pattern Rows
Work 1 dc in very first dc, work 1 dc in each dc across, do not dc in end ch 3 of previous row, ch 1 and turn (10 dc and ch 3 turning ch)

Row 1 of pattern. Working the back loops only, work 1 sc in each dc across (ignore ch 3 turning ch), (=10 sc) ch 3 and turn

Row 2 of pattern. Work 1 dc in very first dc, work 1 dc in each sc across, ch 1 and turn (10 dc and ch 3 turning ch)

Repeat row 1 and row 2, 12 more times, (24 more rows of pattern) ending with a dc row, then sl st across 10 dc and fasten off

Button Placement
Place buttons beneath circular bullion to hide from view. The buttons will do up nicely in a dc.

To make a scarf
Using this pattern to make a scarf can be done easily by making 2 of the above, omitting the sl st ending and ending one side with a sc row, then join together. Make them as long as you need.

To be quite honest here, this bag was a bit of a fluke.
I was making something else.
I'm very pleased with this one

8 ply yarn, any yarn will do.
Amount of yarn will be less than 100 gms.
The yarn I used is 90 % wool
5.00m hook
Bag strap/handle

N/A

N/A

DC= yo hook, insert hook into st, yo hook, pull through loop, yo hook, pull through 2 loops, yo hook, pull through 2 loops again. (Australian/English terms= trbl.)
Special stitches, PUFF st=(sc, 3dc in st)
Back piece.

More detail pictues available on my blog.
http://cats-rockin-crochet.blogspot.com/2008/02/crochet-puff-stitch-purs...

Back piece.
1. Ch 50, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1 turn
2. 1sc, 3dc in first sc, skip next 3 sc, *1sc, 3 dc in next sc, skip next 3 sc*, repeat from * to *, to last 4 sc, skip next 3 sc, 1sc in last sc, ch 1 turn.
3. 1sc, 3dc in first sc, skip next 3 dc, *1 sc, 3dc in next sc, skip next 3 dc*, repeat from * to * to last 4 sts, skip next 3dc, sc in last sc, ch 1 turn.
Repeat row 3, 7 more times.
Begin Flap.
11 and 12. sl st across next 4 st, continue pattern as above, to end, ch 1 turn.
13. repeat row 3, 7 more times, fasten off.
Front Piece.
Work as for back piece to row 10.
To give the front piece a tighter edge, I did a row of rsc, (crab st) along the top.
Making up.
(row 1 of pattern is the right side)
With bag inside out, sew front piece to back piece beginning at side along the bottom and up to the opposite side.
Optional.
To decorate the flap, I did groups of 3 hdc, evenly around the flap.
Find a nice button or make a bobble to close the flap, you will find the pattern has efficient gaps to go over a button.
To make a bobble, ch 3, 12 dc in 3rd ch from hook, sl st to finish, cut yarn leaving a long tail, thread tail through all stitches and pull tight. You can also make a smaller bobble by using sc, starting with 2 ch.
Straps.
I took a strap from an old bag and sewed it to the inside of the bag after I had done a row of sc on the steel loop. This makes a sturdier attachment.
I may line the bag, using the method in this on line tutorial.
http://www.crochetme.com/sack-dress-sack
Have fun, this makes up very quickly.

I have seen dress pot holders and a dress purse made in crochet, I just loved the look of them and decided I wanted a dress bag. So I came up with this one.

Materials

2 Handles I made mine from a length of skipping rope, I cut two pieces about 13 inches long (33 cm) and sewed the ends together.

Size 4.00m hook (US G/6)

8 ply yarn (US light worsted)

Dress Bag measure’s about 15 inches long (38cm) and at it’s widest point 16 inches across (40.5cm)

Not required

Special stitches

Shell= (2dc, 1ch, 2dc) all in stitch indicated

Lge shell=(3dc, 1ch, 3dc) all in st indicated

fpdc = work dc around the front post of the st indicated

bpdc = work dc around the post of the st indicated

Abbreviations

Dc = yo over hook, insert hook into st, yo hook, pull through a loop, yo hook, pull through 2 loops, yo hook, pull through 2 loops again (AU trbl)

More detailed pictures on my blog.
http://cats-rockin-crochet.blogspot.com/2008/02/crochet-dress-bag-patter...

Make 2

Begin with the handles colour 1

Hdc all around the handles until the handles are completely covered, sl st to join

1. ch 3, work 1 dc in each of next 49 hdc, ch 3 turn (50dc)

2. dc in each dc to end, working 1 dc in ch 3, ch 3 turn (50dc)

3. repeat row 2, do not ch 3, break off yarn

Make 2

Dress Part colour 2

Working from opposite end that you just finished on, attach yarn to the 15th dc (includes ch 3)

1. ch 3, work shell st in next dc,* fpdc around next dc, shell in next dc,* repeat from * to * 8 more times, ending with fpdc around next dc, ch 3 turn

2. shell in ch 1 space of previous shell, skip next 2 dc of shell, bpdc around next dc, *shell in ch 1 space, skip next 2 dc of shell, bpdc around next dc, * repeat from * to * 8 more times, ending with bpdc around ch 3, ch 3 turn

3. *shell in ch 1 space, skip next 2 dc of shell, fpdc around next dc,* repeat 9 more times ending with dc in top of ch 3, ch 3 turn

4. repeat rows 2 and 3 5 more times (total of 10 more rows) and row 2, 1 more time (14 rows of pattern)

Alternate colours as per the picture

15. repeat row 2, using the large shell stitch, ch 3 turn

16. repeat row 3, using the large shell stitch, ch 1, turn

17. work 1 sc in each dc and ch 1 space to end, ch 1, turn

18. work 1 sc in each sc across. Fasten off.

Sew in all loose ends.

With wrong side facing, sew sides of bag together, beginning at the top of the first patterned row, sew down the side, along the bottom and up along the other side, using a back stitch sew all 3 sides firmly.

Sleeve Frills

With right side facing

(Please note you may have to wing it a bit here, making sure to keep your work as even as possible.)

Using colour 2, attach yarn to the shoulder part of the sleeve in the side of the dc, closest to the handle, sc across evenly across the shoulder, make a large shell in the corner of the shoulder and the sleeve (1 sc in next 2 dc, large shell in next dc) 1 sc in the next 2 dc, large shell in the next, work this way all around the sleeve, (1 sc in next 2 dc, large shell in next dc)

but when you come to the lower centre of the sleeves, work sc, across this part, continue pattern along the other side of the sleeve , work sc across the shoulder as before, then work 1 sc in every second sc around the handle to the opposite shoulder and repeat the directions from above.

Embellish with a nice flower, ribbon, belt, button or something else of your choice.

Link to the free flower pattern I used.
http://crochetdoilies.com/crochet_rose_applique.html

Line the bag for the perfect finish.

To make a smaller bag alter beginning with 44 dc in row 1 for the handles and make 7 groups of small shell for dress.

Reduce the length to match.

Saranac neck warmer

12 ply yarn (worsted weight) 1 x 50gm ball
5.00 mm hook (H/8)
Button or buttons
American abbreviations used

Adult

Not required

Special Instructions
Saranac stitch= 1st row slip st (slip stitch loosely through out pattern)
2nd row hdc through both loops
3rd row slip st in back loops only
row 2 and row 3 form the Saranac pattern
Worked width ways, ending ch 1 is turning ch only

Either side of this garment can be used as the front side.
Neck warmer can be made longer if required.
Button placement is optional, I made a small chain on one side to hook onto the button on the other side.

More pictures on my blog.
http://cats-rockin-crochet.blogspot.com/2008/02/saranac-neck-warmer.html

Ch 20
1. sl st in 2nd chain from hook and in each ch across, ch 1 turn
2. 1 hdc in first sl st and in each sl st across, ch 1 turn (19 hdc)
3. sl st in back loops of first and next 17 hdc across, ch 1 turn
4. 1 hdc in both loops of first sl st and in each sl st across, ch 1 turn (18 hdc)
5. sl st in back loops of first and next 16 hdc across, ch 1 turn
6. repeat row 4 (17 hdc)
7. sl st in back loops of first and next 15 hdc across, ch 1 turn
8. repeat row 4 (16 hdc)
9. sl st in back loops of first and next 14 hdc across, ch 1 turn
10. repeat row 4 (15 hdc)
11. sl st in back loops of first and next 13 hdc across, ch 1 turn
12. repeat row 4 (14 hdc)
13. sl st in back loops of first and next 12 hdc across, ch 1 turn
14. repeat row 4 (13 hdc)
15. sl st in back loops of first and next 11 hdc across, ch 1 turn
16. repeat row 4 (12 hdc)
17. sl st in back loops of first and next 11 hdc across, ch 1 turn
18. repeat row 4 (12 hdc)
19. to 34 repeat rows 17 to 18
35. 1 sc in first st and in each st across, finish off.

You can use 1 large button or 2 or 3 smaller buttons. Button placement is entirely up to you. I folded down my flap and sewed a button on the flap it’s self and made a chain length to suit the button size for fastening.
Another option is to sew the buttons under the flap area so the opposite end of the neck warmer sits under the flap. Enjoy the pattern

Quick and easy crochet fingerless mitts

Size 4.00 mm hook (US G/6)
8 ply yarn (US light worsted)

US abbreviations used
Stitches used
Sl st, sc, dc

Notes: centre st referred to through out pattern is the second dc of the 3 dc group, or the 1st dc of the ch 3 and 2 dc group

Size’s, small to medium, (medium to large)

not required

Notes: centre st referred to through out pattern is the second dc of the 3 dc group, or the 1st dc of the ch 3 and 2 dc group

Beginning at wrist

Ch 21, (medium to large size ch 25)
Sl st to form a ring, avoid twisting ring

ROW 1. Ch 3, 2 dc in same st as ch 3, ch 1, skip 2 ch, *3 dc in next ch, ch 1, skip next 2 ch* repeat to end, join with a sl st to top of beginning ch 3
(7, 3 dc groups made, small to medium size, 8, 3 dc groups made, medium to large size)

ROW 2. sl st to the centre dc of group (see notes), ch 3, 2 dc in same space, ch 1, *3dc in next centre dc, ch 1*, repeat to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3

ROWS 3 to 8. repeat above row 6 times more, giving you 8 rows in total

Making the thumb hole

ROW 9. sl st to the centre dc of group, ch 12, sl st in centre dc of next dc group, ch 3, sl st into 9th ch of the ch 12, 1dc in same space as ch 3, ch 1, continue pattern around ending with 2 dc in beginning ch 12 space, sl st into 3rd ch of the ch 12, work 5 sc in next 5 ch, and sl st across to top of ch 3 (centre of group)

ROW 10. ch 3, 2 dc in same place, ch 1, *3dc in next centre dc, ch 1*, repeat to end,

ROW 11. 3 dc in centre group of beginning ch 12, ch 1, skip 2 sc, 3 dc in next sc, ch 1, skip 2 sc, sl st to join in top of ch 3 of next group, (this is the new beginning of the rounds)
sl st to centre dc, ch 3, 2 dc in same space, ch 1, continue around in pattern, sl st to top of beginning ch 3

Making the top

ROW 12. Sl st to centre of first group, ch 4, sl st into centre dc of next group, *ch 4, sl st into centre of next group*, repeat to end finishing with a sc in same space as beginning ch 4

ROW 13. 3 sc in ch 4 space, 1 sc in same place as the sl st of the previous row, (into the top of the dc) *3 sc in ch 4 space, 1 sc in same place as the sl st of the previous row*, repeat to end finishing with a sl st to join in the ending sc of the previous row

ROW 14. 1 sc in next sc, (sl st, ch 3 sl st all in next sc), *1 sc in next 3 sc, (sl st, ch 3 sl st all in next sc)*, repeat to final 4 sc, 1 sc in next 3 sc, (sl st, ch 3 sl st all in next sc), sl st in next sc and fasten off

Weave in ends and block if necessary

This holder is created with double crochet (Uk). Turn those leftovers into something practical , quick and easy.

Yarn ; 20g-30g of any yarn . I used yarn from the knittery shade cherries its sock yarn
Hook; Any hook appropiate to the yarn I used 3.5mm.
1 Button.

length 7inches
width 4 inch

none.

Free yourself from gauge,use whatever yarn and hook as long as you create a stiff fabric.

Fed up wth searching for that hook when out and about make a crochet holder to fit in your handbag, hook stitch markers ,scissors, whatever.

Use any leftover yarn, make loads and give to your crocheting friend, have one in every colour.

Easy pattern quick and easy.

http://heldasland.blogspot.com/2008/04/crochet-needle-holder.html

Cephalopods are my favorite kind of animal; they're the most intelligent invertebrates, and their eyes are comparable to human eyes. Plus, their blood is blue-green! For the more zoologically inclined, they're actually members of the mollusk phylum, with clams and snails. I thought a cuttlefish might be a bit ambitious, but a squid seemed relatively easy, and I couldn't find any patterns of them online. To that end, I made my own! His name's Calvin, and he's the sweetest squid a girl could ask for!

The pattern includes some texture on the arms, but I'm not sure how it would look in solid-colored yarn - the multicolored yarn makes it a little hard to see.

• Size F/3.75 mm hook
• Worsted weight yarn (any color!)
• 2 buttons, plus needle & thread (or yarn, depending on size of buttons)
• Polyfil stuffing
• yarn needle

About 14" (36 cm) from head to tip of tentacles, about 3 1/2" (9 cm) across the fins, body is about 2 1/2" (6 cm) in diameter, arms & tentacles are about 1/2" (1 cm) in diameter; Size may vary if different yarn/hook size used and number of repeated rounds per part

stitches should be tight - other yarn weights/hook sizes could be easily substituted, as long as stitches are tight enough to prevent stuffing from showing/falling out!

All rounds worked without joining unless otherwise noted - use a stitch marker to keep track of rounds

ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
blo = back loop only
fpsc = "front post" single crochet - insert hook from front around post of sc below, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook
sc dec = sc decrease - same as sc 2 tog - insert hook in next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook in 2nd stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 3 loops on hook
dc = double crochet
st = stitch/stitches

Starting the fins

The fins are worked only every other row, because you basically do 2 rows of fin every other round. If you're stuck on how to get them started: after you do the chain 2, you have to turn the work around and sc in the second ch from your hook (the first ch stitch you made). Then you sc again in the second sc from the starting round (there should be 2 sc in each of the first 2 sc of the starting round - 4 sc in this round of the body). You repeat the same thing in the next sc - sc once, do the ch 2 with sc, sc again (in the 3rd sc of the starting round) - and finish the round with 2 sc (which should be in the 4th and last sc of the starting round). At the end of the round, you should basically have a small, cone shaped bit (which will become the body) with two small things sticking out from the sides (which will become the fins - and they aren't really evenly spaced on either side of the body, they sit a little bit towards the front). For the next round ("Round 2") you don't have to worry about the fins, just crochet around the body with the increases.

Body

ch 2, sc 4 into second chain from hook - DO NOT JOIN!
Round 1: sc 2 in next sc, *sc in next sc, ch 2, sc in second ch, sc in same sc (next to "sc in next sc"), repeat from * once, sc 2 in next sc (8 st around, plus 1 sc off sides - these will become the fins) **See the "Notes" section for extra help with starting the fins**
Round 2: (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) 2 times, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 2 times (12 st around)
Round 3: sc in next 4 sc, *sc in sc & ch of fin, ch 1, turn, sc in 2 sc of fin*, sc in next 5 sc, repeat from * to *, sc in final 3 sc (12 st around + 2 st in each fin)
Round 4: sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 2 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc (15 st around)
Round 5: sc in next 5 sc, *2 sc in fin, ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc of fin*, sc in next 7 sc, repeat from * to *, sc in last 3 sc (15 st around + 3 in each fin)
Round 6: (sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 3 times (18 st around)
Round 7: sc in next 6 sc, *3 sc in fin, ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc of fin*, sc in next 8 sc, repeat from * to *, sc in last 4 sc (18 st around + 4 in each fin)
Round 8: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (21 st around)
Round 9: sc in next 7 sc, *sc in 4 of fin, ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc of fin*, sc in next 9 sc, repeat from * to *, sc in next 5 sc (21 st around + 5 in each fin)
Round 10: (sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 3 times (24 st around)
Round 11: sc in next 8 sc, *sc in 4 of fin, sl st in last sc, ch 1, turn, sc in 3 of fin*, sc in next 10 sc, repeat from * to *, sc in next 6 sc (24 st around + dec to 3 in each fin)
Rounds 12-26: sc in each sc; after last round, sl st in next sc, fasten off (24 st around; 15 rows or desired length)
Sew on button eyes (it's easier at this point!)

Arms (make 8)

ch 2, 3 sc in second ch from hook
Round 1: 2 sc in each sc around (6 st)
Round 2: sc in each sc around (6 st)
Round 3: sc in next 2 sc, sc in blo, sc in next 3 sc (6 st)
Rounds 4-23: repeat row 3 for 20 rounds or desired length; after last round, sl st in next sc, fasten off

Tentacles (make 2)

ch 2, 2 sc in second ch from hook
Row 1: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first sc, sc in second sc (3 st)
Row 2: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc (5 st)
Row 3: ch 1, turn, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, repeat from * across (8 st)
Row 4: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10 st)
Row 5: ch 1, turn, sc across (10 st)
Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc dec, sc in next 6 sc, sc dec (8 st)
Row 7: ch 1, turn, sc in next sc, fpdc in next sc, dc in next sc, ch 1 , sl st in next 2 sc, ch 1, dc in next sc, fpdc in next sc, sc in next sc (8 st + 2 ch)
Row 8: turn, sl st across to sl st from previous row, sc in 2 sl st of row 7 (2 st + 4 sl st)
Row 9: ch 1, turn, sc in 2 sc, turn, fpsc aound 2 sc of row 8 (4 st; use stitch marker to begin marking rows)
Round 10: 2 sc in first sc of row 9, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc (6 st)
Rounds 11-40: sc in each sc around for 30 rows or to desired length (6 st)
Round 41: sc around, sl st, fasten off

Bottom

ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook, sl st in first sc
Round 1: ch 1, *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around, sl st in ch 1 (9 st)
Round 2: ch 1, *sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around, sl st in ch 1 (12 st)
Round 3: ch 1, *sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around, sl st in ch 1 (15 st)
Round 4: ch 1, *sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around, sl st in ch 1 (18 st)
Round 5: ch 1, *sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around, sl st in ch 1 (21 st)
Round 6: ch 1, *sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around, sl st in ch 1, fasten off (24 st)

Finishing

• stuff tentacles & sew to center of bottom
• stuff arms & sew around circumference of bottom
• stuff body & begin sewing on bottom
• when body & bottom are nearly sewn together, finish stuffing and sew up seam between body & bottom
• weave in ends
• think of a cute name!

So early todayI was browsing some stitches and I came along the popcorn stitch pattern. What was intended to be a scarf turned into a cute funky bracelet! I plan on making a matching Scarf and hat once I get more of this specific type yarn. This bracelet is fun and colorful!

Size 5.5 Boye crochet hook
Yarn type : Easy crafts Acrylic yarn in Girlie Print. To preview their yarns visit http://www.tmayarn.com

Depending on the type of yarn you use the size will vary.

No specific gauge

Popcorn Stitch:Ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, *in next sc [yo and draw up a lp] 5 times, yo and draw through all 5 lps on hook (Popcorn made), 1 sc in each of next 2 sc; rep from * across. Turn.
Single crochet

Ch 33 or size appropriate for your wrist. My wrist is considerably small.

Row 1:

Sc in 2nd chain from hook. Ch 1 turn.

Row 2:

Sc in 1st stitch, *Popcorn stitch in next ch, sc in next 2 chs Repeat from *.

Row 3:

Sc across. When you get to the end of the third row Ch 10 and Join to your starting row. (This will make a button hole.)
Get a cool button, sew it on to your project and viola! your circus popcorn bracelet is done :-D.

I'd just finished crocheting this and realized I had a surprising amount of left over yarn, while I was on the bus heading home one evening. It's been getting colder and colder here and I wished I had some gloves or handwarmers, so I decided to see if I could crochet some up with my remnant yarn before I got home.

This pattern uses the same stitch and yarn as Julie Holetz's sweater clutch. These handwarmers have a little split at the bottom to make it easy to get over your knuckles and onto your wrists and also have an adorable little five-petal flower adorning the back of each.

Crocheting

• Brown Sheep Lambs Pride (85% soft wool, 15% mohair/190 yds), 1 skein of Persian Peacock (choose your favorite color)
• Size F/3.75mm crochet hook
• Yarn/tapestry needle
• Stitch markers

Fulling/felting

• Top-loading washing machine
• Mild hand-dish-washing soap
• Old pillow slipcover (preferably zippered)
• Safety pins (in case you don't have a zippered one)

Approx 7" high from knuckles to below wrist; 4.5" wide and widest point.
I'm afraid I didn't measure it before felting/fulling it in the wash so I don't know what it started out at but a little blocking will make it fit just right.
I will be working this pattern again so I can get these little details I missed.

Please see above.

Use stitch markers to mark the end of each round or you'll quickly lose track of where you are.

This pattern uses the herringbone half double crochet throughout.

hhdc - herringbone half double crochet: yo, insert hook into st, yo, draw up loop and pull through one loop on hook, yo and draw through both loops on hook

hhdc2tog – herringbone half double crochet two together: yo, insert hook into first st, yo, draw up loop and pull through one loop on hook, yo, insert hook into next st, yo, draw up loop and pull through one loop on hook, yo and draw through all three loops on hook

2n1 - two herringbone half double crochets in one stitch: yo, insert hook into first st, yo, draw up loop and pull through one loop on hook, yo, insert hook into same st, yo, draw up loop and pull through one loop on hook, yo and draw through all three loops on hook

Handwarmer
Ch 19 turn.
R1: hhdc 2nd ch from hook. 18 across.
R2: ch1, turn, 18 hhdc
R3 - 4: ch1, join 18 hhdc
R5: 5 hhdc, hhdc 2tog, 6 hhdc, 2n1, 5 hhdc. 20 total.
R6: 20 hhdc
R7: 6 hhdc, 2n1, 6 hhdc, 2n1, 6 hhdc. 22 total.
R8: 6 hhdc, 2n1, 8 hhdc, 2n1, 6 hhdc. 24 total.
R9: Compare piece to your hand and choose where you want to place the hole for your thumb. Hhdc to position and/or if you're already there, ch1 & hhdc around. 20 total + 1ch.
R10-11: 21 hhdc.
R12: (decreasing) hhdc2tog, 5 hhdc, hhdc2tog, 5 hhdc, hhdc2tog, 5hhdc. 18 total.
R13: 7 hhdc, hhdc2tog, 7 hhdc, sl st, tie off, weave in

Flower
Ch 3, join with sl st, creates base loop
*Ch 4, hhdc in 3rd ch from hook
Ch 2, hhdc in loops of last hhdc, hhdc in base ch st of last hhdc, sl st to 3rd ch in loop*
Working in base loop, repeat from * 4 more times (5 petals total).

My daughter, Laura, was my inspiration for this pattern. She is so much like me in so many ways and such a joy to watch grow up. Her favorite color is brown, which, much to her mother's shopping happiness, replaced her preschool desire to be exclusively pink. Influenced by her devotion to her Girl Scout Brownie troop, she has named her hat Brownie. You can find me at www.tiffcrochets.com.

Bernat Cashmere Natural Blends (worsted weight, 65% acrylic/30% nylon/5% cashmere, approx. 60 g/2.1 oz, 94 m/103 yds). Color Earth.

Complementary substitution: Lion Brand Wool Ease (worsted weight, 80% acrylic/20% wool, approx. 70 g/3 oz, 180 m/197 yds). Color Chocolate Brown.

H (5.00 mm) hook
Tapestry needle

Fits an average woman's 20" (50.5 cm) head circumference. If you would like to make a smaller size, replace Round 6 with instructions for Round 8.

Length of hat from center to bottom shell edge is 7 1/2". If you would like to shorten hat, remove Rounds 15 and 16.

3 groups of 2 dc clusters in round = 2"

Ch. 2. Work 8 dc into the 2nd chain from the hook. Join with sl st to first dc.

Round 1: Ch 1, sc in first dc, (ch 1, sc in next dc) 7 times, ch 1. Join with sl st to first sc.
Round 2: Sl st into first ch-1 sp, ch 3, 3 dc in ch-1 sp, (sk next sc, 4 dc in next ch-1 sp) 7 times. Join with sl st to first sc.
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in first dc, (sk next dc, ch 2, sc in next dc) around; at end of round, skip last dc, ch 2, join with sl st to first sc.
Round 4: Sl st into first ch-2 sp, ch 3, 2 dc into same ch-2 sp, (sk next sc, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp) around. Join with sl st to first dc.
Round 5: Ch 1, sc in first dc, (sk next dc, ch 2, sc in next dc) around; at end of round, skip last dc, ch 2, join with sl st to first sc.
Round 6: Sl st into first ch-2 sp, ch 3, 2 dc into same ch-2 sp, (sk next sc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, sk next sc, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp) around; at end of round sk next sc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp, join with sl st to first sc.
Round 7: Ch 1, sc in first dc, (sk next dc, ch 2, sc in next dc) around; at end of round, skip last dc, ch 2, join with sl st to first sc.
Round 8: Sl st into first ch-2 sp, ch 3, dc, (sk next sc, 2 dc in next ch-2 sp) around. Join with sl st to first dc.
Rounds 9 – 16: Repeat Rounds 7 and 8 four times
Round 17: Ch 1, sc in first dc, (sk next dc, ch 2, sc in next dc) around; at end of round, skip last dc, ch 2, join with sl st to first sc.
Round 18: Sl st into first ch-2 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-2 sp, (sk next sc, sc in next ch-2 sp, sk next sc, 3 dc in next ch-2 sp) around, sc in last ch-2 sp, join with sl st to first dc.

this scarf was done using one strand of blue rainbow boucle from joann fabrics, and one strand black TLC amore. the long front post double crochets are done by splitting the yarn in your fingers... the black makes the long front post double, the blue makes a normal double in the stitch behind it. this means the pattern ends up on the right side of the scarf, but the wrong side stays solid with no holes to speak of.

the back side of the scarf will look like this:

if you look closely, you can see very faint indications of how the back sides of the split lfpdc stitches are just blue instead of blue and black combined.

• approximately 1/2 skein of the joann rainbow boucle in blue
• approximately 1 skein of TLC amore in black.
  • obviously these amounts would change based on the length you choose to make your scarf.
• 5 mm (size H/8) hook

8" wide, 8 feet long.

ummm... yeah. it's a scarf. do whatever works.

this scarf is made holding 2 strands of yarn throughout, unless otherwise noted.

SPECIAL STITCH: split long front post double crochet (lfpdc).
at stitch indicated, separate the two strands of yarn in your fingers. i found that wrapping one strand around my index finger and one around my middle finger worked well. using black, YO, insert hook around dc 2 rows below, YO, pull up loops, YO and pull through first 2 loops on hook. using blue, YO, insert hook in dc below, YO and pull through 2 loops on hook (you should now have 2 black loops and 2 blue loops on the hook). combine yarns again, YO and pull through remaining loops on hook to establish as 1 stitch.

chain 28.

row 1: in 3rd chain from hook, work dc and in each ch across. 25 dc.

row 2: ch 3, turn. dc in each dc across.

row 3: ch 3, turn. work dc in first 4 dc, *work split lfpdc, dc in next 4 dc*. this will establish the right side of the work.

row 4: ch 3, turn. dc in each dc across.

row 5: ch 3, turn. dc in first 2 dc, *work split lfpdc, dc in next 4 dc*, dc in last 2 dc.

row 6: ch 3, turn. dc in each dc across.

repeat rows 3-6 until scarf reaches desired length.

these are really cute especially with black and white. you can do them with any two colors. and if you like to double braclets up they really look good with black or white braids.

2 different colors of #4 worsted yarn/thread
sixe 7 hook

1cm x 8 cm

3sc= 1 cm

make sure this is tight but not too tight. it will sort of spiral but all you have to do is steam press with iron.

color 1

1 ch 41
2 sc in 2nd from hook
3 sc in ea ch (40)
BIND

Color 2

1 ch 20
2 sc on top of color 1 (40)
3 ch 20
BIND

Color 1

1

these are awesome. my grandma has a store and i was able to sell these little buggers. they made soo much money. this is really good for people who like things fast. they only take around 3 minutes. please comment. it would really make my day.
this picture is an unfinished one just to give you an idea.

the small craft yarn. thin.
a size 7 needle.
glass seed beads (optional)
embroidery floss(optional)

about 1 cm by 8 cm

3 sc= 1cm

here we go!!
(make sure you read the whole thing. if anything is confusing comment it and ill try to explain better.)

1 ch 4

2 sc in 2nd ch from hook

3 1sc in each ch

*ch 1 turn

I created this scarf with my beginner students in mind. It's a very simple pattern consisting of joining "patches" of single and double crochet into strips and embellish any way that you want!

One of my students suggested that, instead of making separate Patches, just make the strips alternating the single and double crochet stitch rows, and if your using different colours, just join the yarn at the end of the patch and make the strips as long as desired.

I thought that this would also make a great "stash busting" project because I thought that this would look quite whimsical in multiple colours and textures. I feel that you don't need to follow my exact gauge either, as long as every patch is the same or similar size, you're good to go!

Worsted weight yarn – approx. 8 oz –
(anywhere from 1 to 32 colors, if you wish.
This is a great “stash-buster” project if you do each patch in a different color)
Size H/5.00mm hook, or as needed for gauge
Tapestry needle
Optional: Pins to hold strips together for seaming, additional yarn, any weight or embroidery floss for embellishments in contrasting colors, any other embellishments as desired

Approx. 72” (The length can be varied by making more or less of the patches, keeping the patch count an even number)

Single crochet (patch A) – 4 sc = 1” & 3 rows = 1”
Double crochet (patch B) – 4 dc = 1” & 2 rows = 1”
Patch A – 3” x 3 ¼ “
Patch B – 6” x 3 ¼ “

Leave 1 tail long, at least 6 inches, on every patch, for sewing patches together later.

Patch A (Single crochet patch) make 16 for 72” scarf:
Chain (Ch) 13
Row 1: Single crochet (Sc) in 2nd chain (ch) from hook and in each chain (ch) across (12 single crochet)

My daughter Selma is in Peace Camp this week and she has a very
favorite counselor named Ariel who, I'm guessing, is about 15. She
wanted to give her a little present on the last day, so I quickly made
her this kerchief using some flag yarn I got from the Crochetville Sea of Yarn Swap.

1 oz. or less worsted weight yarn (I used some vintage Dupont Orlon I
snagged at Value Village, the orlon made the kerchif a bit heavy, it
would also be nice in a lighter-weight cotton, but I went with it
because I liked the color combination)
1 ball carrying weight novelty yarn--I used Red Heart Tiki in "Aruba".

Size H/5mm crochet hook

Yarn needle

About 10" across the widest part.

As the kerchief is crocheted to fit, gauge is not essential for this pattern.

Note, Main yarn and carrying yarn are held together throughout.

Instructions:

Chain 4, DC in 4th chain from hook. Chain 3, turn.