This is a pattern I came up with, to protect my new toy... A Casio EXILIM digital Camera. I received it in the mail and didn't have a cover to protect it. I made my own.
The cozy is made of left over yarns in my stash.
It is a good gift idea and works up in less than half an hour.

Cascade 220 (Light Teal)
LionBrand Homespun (Black)

Approximate Length 4"
Approximate Width 3"

3 sc and 3 rows = 1" (approximately) in heavier yarn.

Crochet Hook Size: US K / 6.5 mm (For Homespun)
US D / 3.25 mm (For Cascade 220)

Abbreviations:
Single Chain (sc/ scs) (I directed a video to demonstrate the stitch which is available from you tube - left handed and right handed)
Half Double Crochet (hdc) (Video available here on you tube.)
Chain (ch)
Inches ( " )

I worked the cozy in two yarn weights Heavier (Color A - Homespun) and Lighter (Color B - Cascade)

(Note: The pattern can be adopted to fit any camera/ cellphone/ Mp3 music player etc simply by checking the dimensions of the object it is being made for and then increasing the base chain numbers accordingly.)

* With Color A and K hook ch 11, turn. (11th chain will count for turning.)
* SC in the second chain from hook, * sc across to the end (total 10 scs). Ch 1 turn
* Repeat from * till the piece is exactly double the width of the camera. (My camera is 3.5", so my rectangular piece measured 7"). Bind off A.
* Join the Color B in the last sc of the previous row. Fold the rectangular piece in half and start sc through both layers from this corner down to the sides (Both layers of the piece will be joined on the sides using this edge.) then the bottom and then the corner of the other side. We now have a nice edge around 3 sides of piece. Use 1ch or 2scs to turn corners.
* Now we will work on the open edges in the round. ch 1, 2 scs with B in each sc of A (Total 40 scs around.) Join in the first ch1 using slip stitch.
* * ch 2, hdc in each sc around. Join with slip st to the first ch2. (total 40scs around.)
* Repeat from * for 3 more rows.
* ch2, 3hdc in the next 3scs, 1ch and skip next sc, *4hdc in the next 4 scs, 1ch and skip next sc. Repeat from * to the end. Join with slip stitch to the first chain 2. Bind off. The holes created in the last row will be used for the closure string.

To make the closure string

* Take Color B, 4 times the actual length that will be required for the pouch edge leaving two ends of atleast 2-4" each.
* Fold the length of B in half and secure one end. (I put the folded end in one of my toes) and twist it between your palms.
* Once the half length is twisted hold both ends together (thus resulting in another half fold of the already half length) and free the other end. The yarn will self twist to form a nice cord.
* Now thread this cord through the holes created in the last row of the cozy alternating drawing direction. (From outside to inside once and visa versa till the end.)
* Join the loose ends together with a knot to form a loop.

My husband has been asking me to make him a bee for awhile now! Having finally almost finished Babette Blanket (and being out of the wool I need to complete its edging), I thought I’d go for the bee at long last!

2.5mm hook
a small amount of yellow wool
a small amount of gray wool
stitch marker

(I used King Cole Merino Blend DK in amber and dark gray)

My finished Bee is just under 2 inches long.

Gauge is unimportant for this project.

It’s a very quick and easy pattern worked in rounds, make sure you mark your final st or the round so you know where ‘the beginning’ is.

BODY:
Ch 2
Row 1: 6 sc in 1st ch, (mark 6th st)
Row 2: 2 sc in next 6 st (12sc, mark 12th st)
Row 3: *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next stitch. Repeat from * until you complete the round (18sc, mark 18th st)
Rows 4-5: Change color to black and sc around all 18 st (18 sc, mark 18th st)
Row 6-7: Change to yellow and sc around as in rows 4-5.
Row 8-9: Change to black and sc around as in rows 4-5.
Row 10: Change to yellow and sc around (18sc).
Row 11: *1 sc in 1st stitch, 1 dec. Repeat from * for entire round (12 sc, mark 12th st)
Row 12: dec next 12 st (6 sc).

Then finish off and leave a little bit of yarn to weave around the opening of your bee.

Stuff the little dude with whatever fuzzy/fluffy stuff you have to hand (I save the little ends from other projects and use those)

Weave the yarn through the last 6 st and pull tightly to close. Weave in all ends.

WINGS (make 2):

ch 4
Round 1: beginning in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 3 st, ch 1, turn
Round 2: 1 sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in 3rd st, then 2sc in opposite side of the st you just worked 2 sc into. (you’re working in a little ‘U’ shape), 2 sc, finish off.

Then sew all the bits toghether! His eyes are just made from wool-knots in this picture, but use anything you like!

We all have those leftovers that we cant part with.This quick and easy pattern fulfilles the urge to make something useful with them .

Add a bit of bling for the diva in you!!!

Gauge;

Not im.portant just crochet it

1 hairgrip, or slide

less than 10g of yarn

hook; any size appropiate to the yarn

Its a small flower added to a hairclip.

Its a hairgrip relax.

A very useful pattern to make something useful,use any yarn and a hook appropiate to the the yarn.Give them as gifts to all your friends. Add any kind of embellishment to personalize them ,diamonte, beads, buttons.
The perfect little accessory to finish off your outfit .

A very easy pattern to make something useful, give them as gifts to all your friends. Add any kind of embellishment to personalize them ,diamonte, beads, buttons.
The perfect little accessory to finish off your outfit .
http://heldasland.blogspot.com/2008/03/free-crochet-hair-clip-pattern.ht...

I love textured stitches and I love simple patterns that are easy to commit to physical memory. My hands remember so my brain can wander! Here is my take on a simple crochetted cable hat.

I wrote this pattern to be flexible and accomodate different yarn weights and head sizes. All you need is your tape measure and some very basic math skills(counting and multiplication).

 I know there are a couple of mistakes in the hat I made. I believe it is okay to leave a few human errors as long as it does not take away from the beauty of a piece.  This is proof that it is handmade. Leave perfection up to the machines!

tape measure

hook- size G,  4mm , you can use whatever size hook you want

 yarn- knitpicks bare worsted Wool of the Andes. I dyed it with onion skins mordanted with alum. You can use whatever yarn you want.

yardage- I used a little less than 200 yards, 183 m

My hat is 5 inches, 12.5 cm tall,  6 inches, 15cm across at the top and a circumference of 22 inches, 55 cm at the bottom.  Make the top circle larger for a larger hat and smaller for a smaller hat. Make it as tall or short as you want by adjusting the number of cable pattern repeats .  You can also adjust the length of the brim by adding or subtracting rounds.

The gauge for my hat is 12 hdc and 10 rounds equals 4 inches, 10cm.

The gauge is not really important as long as you use your tape measure.

pattern notes :

This pattern is worked in the round. Chain 2 for the first stitch in each round. Each round is joined with a slip stitch in the top of the first stitch (the second chain in the chain 2)

stitches:

 hdc- half double crochet - yarn over, insert hook in stitch you are working, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook

 fpt - front post treble - yarn over two times, insert hook from front to back to front around the back of the post of the stitch you are working, yarn over, pull loop through two loops on hook, yarn over, pull loop through two loops on hook, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops on hook.

please read pattern notes before beginning

1. make magic adjustable ring (see Donna Hulka's tutorial to learn this technique) or if you are scared of the magic ring, just chain 3 and join with a slip stitch, then work the 5 hdc in the ring of 3 chains, move on to round 3

 2. 5 hdc in ring and tighten

 3. 2 hdc in each hdc

 4. 2 hdc in each hdc

 5. (1 hdc in next 1 stitch, 2 hdc in next stitch), repeat to end

 6. (1 hdc in next 2 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch), repeat to end

 7. (1 hdc in next 3 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch), repeat to end

 8. (1 hdc in next 4 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch), repeat to end

continue in this manner of increase until flat top circle of hat is the desired size. (I stopped increasing after 8 rounds, about 6 inches, 15 cm, for a size small hat).

set up round. 1 hdc in each stitch around. Increase or decrease a few stitches in this round if you need to, to end up with a total number of stitches that is a multiple of 8.

 begin cable pattern

1. (1 hdc in each of the next 4 stitches, fpt around next 4 stitches), repeat to end

2. ( 1 hdc in next 4 stitches, skip 2 fpt's, 1 fpt around each of the next 2 fpt's. Go back and work 1 fpt around each of the 2 fpt's you skipped (these stitches cross over the first 2 fpt's)), repeat to end

3. (1 hdc in each of the next 4 stitches, 1 fpt around each of the next 4 stitches ( you really have to dig for that second fpt!)), repeat to end

4. repeat round 2

5. repeat round 3

continue in this manner until hat is desired length (I made mine about 4 inches, 10 cm, then added a folded brim)

last round. hdc in each stitch around

For optional folded brim:

stop cable pattern about 1 inch, 2.5 cm before desired hat length continue crochetting rounds of hdc until brim is desired length. (I made mine 3 rounds, about 1 inch, 2.5 cm)

turn, continue crochetting the same number of rounds you just crochetted worked in the opposite direction, turn work only one time. (3 rounds for mine, for a total brim length of 6 rounds, about 2 inches, 5 cm unfolded)

this technique insures that the part of the brim that is folded up shows the right side

I wanted to use this yarn and couldn't think of a project. But I found a pillow form laying around that I hadn't gotten around to using - so I made this pillow! I love the color changes on the yarn - and I love that Diamond Stitch!

2 Skeins Universal Yarn, Inc., Deluxe Chunky LP, 100% Wool, Color 01
13" x 13" Pillow Form
Size "K" Crochet Hook
Yarn Needle
Scrap coordinating yarn (for lace tie)

13" x 13"

3 ½ sc + 4 Rows = 1" (worked over sc)

The Diamond Stitch used in this pillow looks hard - but once you have worked a few repeats, you'll see how it's done and you'll soon be working without referring to the pattern notes.

To work a Front Post Treble Crochet (abbreviated FPtr): YO twice, insert hook from front to back around post of sc indicated, YO and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), (YO and draw through 2 loops on hook) 3 times.

Instructions
Ch 38.
Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn (37 ch)
Row 2 and 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn
Row 4 (Right Side): sc in first 2 sc, work FPtr around post of first sc on third row below, skip next 4 sc on third row below, work FPtr around post of next sc on third row below, * skip next 2 sc from last sc made, sc in next 4 sc, work FPtr around next sc on third row below, skip next 4 sc on third row below, work FPtr around next sc on third row below, repeat from * across to last 5 sc, skip next 2 sc from last sc made, sc in last 3 sc. Ch 1, turn.
Rows 5 - 7: sc in each sc across
Row 8: work FPtr around third sc on third row below, skip first sc, sc in next 4 sc, * work FPtr around next sc on third row below, skip next 4 sc on third row below, work FPtr around next sc on third row below, skip next 2 sc from last sc made, sc in next 4 sc; repeat from * across to last 2 sc, work FPtr around next sc on third row below, skip next sc from last sc made, sc in last sc.
Rows 9 - 11: sc in each sc across
Repeat Rows 4 -11 for Diamond Stitch Pattern.

Work until piece measures 27 ½" from beginning. I used a slip stitch to seam the beginning chain edge to the edge just finished. (I also ran out of the chunky yarn at this point. So I switched to Noro Silk Garden, #208, which happened to coordinate with the project yarn. Any yarn you have on hand that coordinates will work fine.)

Seam one side of pillow using coordinating scrap yarn and also using the slip stitch method.

For Lace Tie:
I didn't really want to mess with buttons on this, so I crocheted a chain about 30" long and used it to lace it down the sides of the remaining unseamed side. And tied a little bow at the bottom. That way, I can unlace it and hand-wash the pillow cover when needed. I folded the lace tie in half, with the open ends toward the bottom of the pillow, and the folded loop at the top of the pillow. With a yarn needle, I threaded one lace tie through the edge stitches all the way down, then I threaded the remaining tie on the opposite stitches all the way down. Cinch it tight and tie a bow!

The pill purse is a quick and easy way to organise that ever expanding handbag.Its a great way to have those necessary tablets hidden .I have to take quite alot of tablets for the rest of my life,wherever I go I have to have these with me. Fed up with searching for my pills in the bottom whatever handbag I was using I decided I'd make a pill purse . I now never leave home without it.

Yarn: any ply, I used aran weight 40g in total.
Hook; use appropiate for the yarn you are using .I used 5mm

Fastener;any one of these Brooch,pin, button
I used a crochet flower glued onto a brooch pin.

the size of your largest pill packet

Not important its a purse

The pattern:

http://heldasland.blogspot.com/2008/03/free-pill-purse.html

The pill purse is a quick and easy way to organise that ever expanding handbag.Its a great way to have those necessary tablets hidden .I have to take quite alot of tablets for the rest of my life,wherever I go I have to have these with me. Fed up with searching for my pills in the bottom whatever handbag I was using I decided I'd make a pill purse . I now never leave home without it.

Yarn: any ply, I used aran weight 40g in total.
Hook; use appropiate for the yarn you are using .I used 5mm

Fastener;any one of these Brooch,pin, button
I used a crochet flower glued onto a brooch pin.

the size of your largest pill packet

Not important its a purse

The pattern:

http://heldasland.blogspot.com/2008/03/free-pill-purse.html

My friends want to learn tunisian stiches, so I try to make a simple pattern for them. I think Handphone casing is a cool one. Everyone have it and it'll be useful to0

Material :
Softy wool 6 ply
Tunisian hook clover no. 6
Stopper
Gold beaded
China silk ribbon

Length 12 cm
Width 6 cm
(You can make another size depend on your Handphone)

Not necessary

Make Ch 15

R1-4 : Tss at each st across.
R5-7 : Tks at each st aross.
R8-11: Tss at each st across.
R12-14: Tps at each st across.

Repeat from R1-14 until the length you need.

Pattern chart instruction :

Finishing :
Joint together 2 side (left and right) with seam stich ( with tapestry needle).

Top edging :
R1 : ch1, sc at the the same st, sc at each st around. Joint with sl st at first ch1.
R2 : Ch4, sk, dc, (ch1,sk,dc) repeat around. Joint with sl st at first ch3.
R3 : same with R1. Fasten off.

Insert ribbon/tail at R2. Slip in and out. Give a stopper at one side. Finish.

A friend of mine asked me to crochet some spare teeth for him (strange, I know) and this is what I came up with!

I'm very very new to crochet so bear with me. I did this mostly on the fly, making it up as I went along. This pattern should be considered more of a guide. Gague isn't important, and neither is yarn type. It just depends on how big and fuzzy you want you false teeth to be! I welcome any suggestions to better this one. The teeth had me scratching my head for awhile and I'm still convinced there's a better way!

This is my first pattern I've ever submitted, so all suggestions are welcome...

I used the following materials:

3.5mm hook

Sirdar Supersoft Baby Double Knitting wool in red for the gums
King Cole (a beige color, didn't make a note of the name) for the teeth

The finished size is totally up to you! As far as I can tell, no standard has been set for crochet false teeth :o)

Gauge doesn't matter for this pattern

Gums: (make 2)

Chain 26, sc in 2nd stitch from hook.
sc in each stitch (24sc)
In the last stitch, 4sc
sc in the other side of each stitch
Continue crocheting in rounds until your oval is desired size (when folded in half) for the bottom 'gum'.
Finish off.

Ch 4, sc in 2nd stitch from hook.
1 sc in each stitch (2sc)
Ch 1, turn
1 sc in each stitch (3sc)
Continue until the strip is long enough to join your oval together when it is folded in half.

Stitch the strip to your oval creating one gum. Make sure you leave an opening to stuff it with fuzz or old yarn before you stitch it up.

And do it all over again for your second gum!

Teeth: (top)
Ch 2, 2 dc in 2nd stitch from hook
In the same stitch as last 2 dc, 1hdc and 1 sc
Chain 4
In 3rd stitch from hook, 2 dc, 1hdc, 1sc
Repeat this until you have twice as many teeth as you need for the upper gum.
Once you finish off, fold the strip together and stitch them together so 2 teeth become 1 tooth. Stitch these to your upper gum.

Teeth: (bottom)
These are the same as the top, but you don't have to stitch 2 teeth together to make one tooth. Just make enough to peek out the bottom. Making a whole row will make the mouth to look too full.

This scarflette looks complicated, but is actually very quick and easy to make, and you can get to use very small amounts of scrap yarn.

Scrap yarn
Suitable crohet hook

As long as you want!

Doesn't matter

Ch 28, make a ring. Ch 3 (=1dc), 1 dc in 1st ch, 2 dc in each st, sl st in 3rd ch.
Ch 3 (=1 dc), 1 dc in 3rd ch, 1 dc in next st * 2 dc, 1 dc, in 2 next two sts * continue from * to *, 1 sl st in 3rd ch. Cut yarn and fasten off.

Next circle:
Ch 28, make a ring going through the first ring – continue as described over.

The third circle goes through both of these circles. The fourth circle goes through the second and third circle, and so one, till desired length.

If this doesn't make sense to you, please read ktutcher's comment under, that explains it brilliantly. Thanks, ktutcher!

My very good friend Jonathan never wanted me to make him anything which was hard for me as I love to knit/crochet things for people. FINALLY one day we went to my LYS and he picked out this yarn and said I could knit him a headband. So I did. Then he loved it so much he wanted matching armwarmers. So I made these armies up. Very easy and no seams (which I love).
It's summer here in NZ, but next winter he will be pretty stylie. They are very easy and very quick. And you make them to fit quite snug since I find crochet stretches.
Please let me know if you have any problems. I always just make stuff up as I go along, and this seems pretty straightforward to me, but it may not be!

Hummingbird Aires Fast Knitting 50g
4 skeins

custom fit - you decide the size

12 sc = 4" (10cm) I think

(Make 2)
-Ch34
-Sc into 3rd chain from hook
(Make 2)
-Sc across all chains (32 sc)
-Ch 2, turn. Sc into all sc.
-Repeat these rows until the rectangle is large enough to wrap around you arm with a snug fit.
-Last row, fold your rectangle so that the beginning row is in line with the last row. Work sc through both the first and the last row for 5 sc. Work 6-8 sc only on one row (up to you, this is for the thumb hole). On 7th or 9th, begin sc through both rows again. Sc through both rows until the end. Pull ball of yarn through loop to fasten off, but don’t cut yarn.
-At the cuff, pick a loop, pull yarn up and through (you are now working in the round at the cuff), chain 2. SC through loops around the edge until you reach the beginning of the round. Sl st. Ch2, turn. Sc back the other way to the beginning of the round. Sl st. Continue in this matter for 4 more rows (or however much longer you wnt to make it – if you go too far up the arm you will have to increase about 4 more sc evenly over the round to make room for the upper forearm). Fasten off. Weave in ends. Long armies with no seams!!

My very good friend Jonathan never wanted me to make him anything which was hard for me as I love to knit/crochet things for people. FINALLY one day we went to my LYS and he picked out this yarn and said I could knit him a headband. So I did. Then he loved it so much he wanted matching armwarmers. So I made these armies up. Very easy and no seams (which I love).
It's summer here in NZ, but next winter he will be pretty stylie. They are very easy and very quick. And you make them to fit quite snug since I find crochet stretches.
Please let me know if you have any problems. I always just make stuff up as I go along, and this seems pretty straightforward to me, but it may not be!

Hummingbird Aires Fast Knitting 50g
4 skeins

custom fit - you decide the size

12 sc = 4" (10cm) I think

-Ch34
-Sc into 3rd chain from hook
-Sc across all chains (32 sc)
-Ch 2, turn. Sc into all sc.
-Repeat these rows until the rectangle is large enough to wrap around you arm with a snug fit.
-Last row, fold your rectangle so that the beginning row is in line with the last row. Work sc through both the first and the last row for 5 sc. Work 6-8 sc only on one row (up to you, this is for the thumb hole). On 7th or 9th, begin sc through both rows again. Sc through both rows until the end. Pull ball of yarn through loop to fasten off, but don’t cut yarn.
-At the cuff, pick a loop, pull yarn up and through (you are now working in the round at the cuff), chain 2. SC through loops around the edge until you reach the beginning of the round. Sl st. Ch2, turn. Sc back the other way to the beginning of the round. Sl st. Continue in this matter for 4 more rows (or however much longer you wnt to make it – if you go too far up the arm you will have to increase about 4 more sc evenly over the round to make room for the upper forearm). Fasten off. Weave in ends. Long armies with no seams!!

This hat is a typical top-down affair worked in the round, except that it is joined and turned between rounds. This allows for seamless color changes in the stripes.

144 yd 4/worsted weight yarn in MC
144 yd 4/worsted weight yarn in CC
Size J-10 (6.0 mm) crochet hook

Fits average man’s head (22” circumference)

7 rnds = 4" across.

http://crochetkitten.blogspot.com/2008/01/animators-hat.html

Indulge yourself in this rich, felted purse with a cheery flower and ribbon. It's the perfect cure for the wintertime blues!

Color A: 2 skeins (446 yd) Patons® Classic Wool Merino or 4/worsted weight 100% wool yarn
Color B: 1 skein (223 yd) Patons® Classic Wool Merino or 4/worsted weight 100% wool yarn
Color C: 1 skein (223 yd) Patons® Classic Wool Merino or 4/worsted weight 100% wool yarn
Size H-8 (5.0 mm) crochet hook
2 ft satin ribbon in Color C
Yarn needle

10” high by 11” wide at base.

Not necessary.

http://www.crochetkitten.com/files/Viktoria_Purse.pdf

A pair of simple fingerless mittens I worked up as a last minute Christmas gift. I wrote down the pattern because I really liked how they turned out and I didn't see anything like it around.
They are worked in an Aran weight yarn on a 5mm (H) hook, so they work up rather quickly. Use a solid color for a more classic look or use your favourite hand dyed yarn and make a stylish accessory.

Yarn:
Multicolor mittens: Lana Grossa ‘Bingo Print’ (100% merino wool; 80m/87.5 yards - 50g): color 316, 2 balls.
Blue mittens: Fonty Numéro 5 (100% wool; 85m/93 yards - 50g; color 217; 2 balls).

Yarn Substitution: You need about 110 m (120 yards) of Aran weight yarn. I used about 70g of the Bingo Print for both mittens. If you buy 3 balls, you can make 2 pairs.

Other yarns I recommend (this list keeps growing as I make more mittens myself): Rowan RYC Cashsoft Aran, Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran

Hook: 5 mm (H)

One size fits most adult women. About 17 cm (6 ¾ inches) around.

18 sts / 14 rows sc tbl

The mittens are worked in a spiral without joining rounds. Place a marker in first st to mark beginning of round. All sts are worked through the back loop only.

Skills needed: crochet in the round, sc through the back loop, foundation sc (explained in this great tutorial).

Fsc 28. Join for working in the round with a sl st at bottom of first fsc, being careful not to twist.
Rd 1: Sc tbl in first fsc, place marker, sc to end of round (28 sts).
Rds 2-10: Sc around.
Rd 11: Sc 1 more in last st of last round, sc 1 (= first st of round), sc 2 in next st, sc to end of round.
Rd 12: Sc without increasing.
Repeat last 2 rounds 4 more times (38 sts).
Next Rd: Work to 4 sts before marker, ch 3 (new beginning of round is the second of those 3 sts), skip 4 sts after marker (32 sts).
(Edited because people were having trouble with the last line: You skip 4 sts before the marker, then the marked st, then 4 sts after the marked st, you skip 9 sts in total.)
Work even for another 7 rounds or up to desired length, ending with a sl st in first st of round. Fasten off.

Thumb:
Rejoin yarn at thumb opening. Sc in all 9 thumb sts (that were previously on hold), sc 1 in each bottom of 3 ch sts. Continue working in the round for 3 rounds or up to desired length, ending with a sl st in first st of round. .
Fasten off.

Finishing:
Weave in ends. Wash and block. Wear and enjoy.