I always come across patterns that I like but want to change. It never fails. Either I don’t like the sleeve or I want to tweak the hem. Add a little here, take away a little there - I just can’t seem to stop myself.

So choose your own adventure. Feeling romantic and girly? Go for the wide v-neck collar and flouncy peplum hem. Or maybe you need a hip-length weekender sweater to snuggle in by the fire...

• Euro Yarns Peru DK Luxury (70% Merino/20% Alpaca/10% Silk; 124 yards/112 meters per 50 grams/1 3/4 oz.), Magenta (#09), 13 (14, 15, 16) balls (yardage estimates are for full jacket with collar and peplum hem or hip-length hem).
• Reduce by 1 skein if you omit the collar.
• Reduce by 2 skeins if you choose a cropped hem.
• H/8 (5 mm) hook or size needed to obtain gauge
• I/9 (5.5 mm) hook or size needed to obtain gauge
• J/10 (6 mm) hook or size needed to obtain gauge
• La Mode Silver Oval buttons style # 24785 (1 1/8”)

To lengthen or shorten body of jacket add or remove rows at waist between rows 37-43 on back, front right and front left.

To lengthen sleeves add rows between rows 47-51.

To shorten sleeves remove rows between rows 33-43.

Choice of 3 hemlines:

Cropped: falls between natural waist and top of hips.

Hip-length: falls to middle of hips, 2.5” below cropped hem.

Peplum: subtle 4” flounce from cropped waistline.

With smaller hook: 1 repeat = 1” (.94”) wide, 1 row= 1/2” (.44”), 4 repeats= 3.75”, 9 rows= 4”.

Pattern is worked from the neck down.

Special Stitch

Shell Pattern (sh patt): (3 dc, ch 2, sc) in each ch-2 sp.

I am about to divulge my secret method of making top-down hats. The pattern here uses a DK weight alpaca, but you can use my secret method to crochet a hat from any kind of yarn and for any size head. You don't have to confine yourself to working in sc, either. You can try all sorts of stitches and stitch patterns once you get the hang of it. For those of you who are nervous about working without a pattern, relax. It's not as tricky and inflexible as you think. I used the same yarn in this pattern as I used in Flappy, but I didn't peek at the other pattern when I wrote this one. If you compare this pattern to the Top O' the Hat section from Flappy, you will notice that there are a few minor differences between the patterns. This doesn't mean I made a mistake making this hat, it just means that there's some flexibility with pattern-writing.

There are three ways I start top-down hats:  

• Method 1.  Ch 2.  Work X sts into first ch.
• Method 2.  Ch X, sl st in first ch to form ring. Work X sts into ring.  
• Method 3.  Make an adjustable loop. Work X sts into the loop, pull tail to tighten.

The second part of the hat is the increase section, which is adapted from the method of crocheting a disc in my favourite book, New Design in Crochet, by Clinton D. MacKenzie (Van Nostrand Reinhold Company, 1972).  The trick is to alternate rounds of increases (e.g., work 2 sc in each st around) with rows of regular stitches (e.g., sc in each st around) according to what looks best with your yarn, hook, tension, and gauge.  

At some point, you are going to stop working in a disc and start working your project into a hat shape. If you are lucky, your last round of increases will be the right size for your hat, but in many cases, you will have to space out your final round of increases (e.g., *work 2 sts in next st, sc in each of next X sts,* rep from * to * around; or *work 2 sts in each of next X sts, sc in next st,* rep from * to * around) in order to get the desired diameter. After that, work the hat in rows of regular stitches (e.g., sc in each st around) until your hat is the desired length. 

The last part of my secret method is the brim. If you're an absolute beginner, you don't need to do anything fancy, but the brim is a good place to practice new stitches, stitch patterns, and color changes. The brim in this pattern, "*sc-blo in next st, sc-tbl in next st,* rep from * to * around," alternates between front-loop and both-loop sc stitches. This produces a gentle ribbing effect that is more prominent on the reverse side (which you will see when the brim is folded up).

Now that I've explained my secret method, watch it in action.

• MC: 2 skeins Inca Cloud Artesano Alpaca (100% Alpaca, 131 yds/120m per 50g skein) color 2285 (electric blue) or approximately 260 yards/240m of any DK weight alpaca
• US F / 3.75mm hook
• Stitch marker (I find a dangle earring works well in lieu of a proper stitch marker)

Wee Noggin - 17.5"/45 cm circumference, 7.75"/20 cm brim-to-top

Normal Noggin - 22"/56 cm circumference, 9"/23 cm brim-to-top

Big Noggin - 26.5"/67 cm circumference, 10.25"/26 cm brim-to-top

19 sts x 24 rounds of sc = 4"(10 cm)

Special stitches

sc-blo: single-crochet, back-loop only (instead of working the sc through both loops, work the sc through the back-loop of the stitch).

sc-tbl: single-crochet, through both loops.  This is just a regular sc, but it is used to eliminate confusion when alternating between sc-blo and sc.

The Hat

All sizes

Make a

I've always had a thing for fingerless gloves and wrist warmers. When I was a little kid, I always wanted to cut the fingertips off my gloves so I could be like Bob Cratchit from Dickens's A Christmas Carol, but my mom wouldn't let me. Years later, I cut the fingertips off the first pair of gloves I bought in college. I've seen a lot of knitting patterns for wrist warmers, but I haven't seen many crocheted wrist warmers so I thought I'd make these!

Although this pattern is done in Artesano Alpaca, it is easily adaptable to other yarns and is a great way to use up scrap yarns and one-skein impulse purchases.

• MC:  1 skein Inca Cloud Artesano Alpaca (100% Alpaca, 131 yds/120m per 50g skein): color #002 (brown), or approximately 131 yards/120m of any DK weight alpaca
•  CC1 and CC2:  1/2 skein each of Inca Cloud Artesano Alpaca (100% Alpaca, 131 yds/120m per 50g skein): color #402 (olive green) and color #71 (burnt orange) or approximately 131 yards/120m of any DK weight alpaca or scrap yarn
• US F/5 (3.75 mm) hook
• Yarn needle

Wee Wristies: (will fit children and people with small hands, like me)
Normal Wristies: (will fit average-sized wrists)
Big Wristies: (for big people)

The pattern is written for Wee Wristies with changes for Normal Wristies and Big Wristies written in parentheses.

19 sts x 24 rounds of sc = 4" (10 cm)

Fpdc = front post double crochet

The Wrist-bit

With MC, ch 26 (30, 34), sl st in first ch to form ring.  

Round 1.  Ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc in each st around, sl st in 2nd ch of ch-2 to close ring. (26 [30, 34] dc)

Round 2.  Ch 1 (counts as first sc), *fpdc around next dc of previous row, sc in next st,*  rep from * to * around, ending fpdc around last dc of previous row,  sl st in first ch to close ring.  

Round 3. With CC1, ch 1 (counts as first sc), *fpdc around post of next fpdc, sc in next st,*  rep from * to * around, ending fpdc around post of next fpdc,  sl st in first ch to close ring.

Round 4.  Repeat Round 3 in MC.  

Round 5.  Repeat Round 3 in CC2.  

Round 6.  Repeat Round 3 in CC1.  

Round 7.  Repeat Round 3 in CC2.  

Round 8.  Repeat Round 3 in MC.  

Round 9.  Repeat Round 3 in CC1.  

Rounds 10-11.  Repeat Round 3 in MC.  

The Thumb-Hole-bit

This section is worked flat instead of in the round.  

Row 1.  Ch 1 (counts as sc), turn, sc in each st to end.  Do not join in first ch.  

Repeat Row 1 until work measures 2.5" (3", 3") or desired length.  

Top O' the Mitt

Round 1: Sl st in first ch of row to join, ch 1, sc in each st around.

Repeat Round 1 for 4 (5, 6) more rounds, ending with sc in first ch, sl st in following stitch.  Fasten off.  

Finishing

Using yarn  needle, weave in all ends.

Crocheted tiers of luxurious, alpaca scallops trimmed with carved, bone beads and wooden handles makes for a bag good for any occasion.

• Henry’s Attic Andee (50% superfine alpaca/50% merino wool; 500yds per 8oz), 2 hanks
• US G/6 (4 mm) crochet hook
• (25) 8 mm carved bone beads
• Two 13” wooden purse handles
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Optional 1/2 yard of lining; needle and thread to match lining

Kristin has made an Alpaca Beaded Handbag kit available here.

13” (33 cm) long, 13.5” (34 cm) wide (not including handles)

18 sts x 14 rows of sc = 4" (10 cm)
16 sts x 8 rows of dc = 4" (10 cm)

Tier (make 5)

Ch 8 (counts as ch 5, dc), dc in 4th chain from hook and in each st across, turn. (6 sts)

I've been fond of ear-flap hats ever since I first saw one in an Alice Starmore knitting book. Although I've never gotten around to knitting one, I've crocheted loads. The hat band, which can be crocheted on its own if you're just after an ear-warmer/headband, is done in front-post double crochet to create a ribbed faux-fair isle-style. If you're like me and you have loads of partial skeins lying around, this is a great way to use them up.

• MC: 2 skeins Inca Cloud Artesano Alpaca (100% Alpaca, 131 yds/120m per 50g skein): color #002 (brown) or approximately 260 yards/240m of any DK weight alpaca.  
• CC1 and CC2: 1/2 skein each of Inca Cloud Artesano Alpaca (100% Alpaca, 131 yds/120m per 50g skein): color #402 (olive green) and color #71 (burnt orange) or approximately 131 yards/120m of any DK weight alpaca or scrap yarn.  
• US F /5 (3.75 mm) hook
• Stitch marker (I find a dangle earring works well in lieu of a proper stitch marker)
• Yarn needle

Wee Noggin - 17.5" (45 cm) circumference, 6.75" (17 cm) brim-to-top
Normal Noggin - 22" (56 cm) circumference, 8" (20 cm) brim-to-top
Big Noggin - 26.5" (67 cm) circumference, 9.25" (23 cm) brim-to-top

The pattern is written for Wee Noggin with changes for Normal Noggin and Big Noggin in parentheses.

Earflaps - 2.4" wide x 3.5" long (6 cm x 9 cm)
Pigtails - 8" (20 cm) long

19 sts x 24 rounds of sc = 4" (10 cm)

Brim

With MC, ch 80 [100, 120], sl st in first ch to form ring.  

Round 1.  Ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc in each st around, sl st in 2nd ch of ch-2 to close ring. - 80 (100, 120) dc total

Round 2.  Ch 1 (counts as first sc), *fpdc around next dc of previous row, sc in next st*, rep from * to * around, ending fpdc around last dc of previous row, sl st in first ch to close ring.  

Round 3. With CC1, ch 1 (counts as first sc), *fpdc around post of next fpdc, sc in next st,*  rep from * to * around, ending fpdc around post of next fpdc,  sl st in first ch to close ring.

Round 4.  Repeat Round 3 in MC.  

Round 5.  Repeat Round 3 in CC2.  

Round 6.  Repeat Round 3 in CC1.  

Round 7.  Repeat Round 3 in CC2.  

Round 8.  Repeat Round 3 in MC.  

Round 9.  Repeat Round 3 in CC1.  

Rounds 10-11.  Repeat Round 3 in MC.  

Fasten off.

Top O' the Hat

All sizes

With MC, ch 3, sl st in first ch to form ring.  

Round 1:  Ch 1, work 10 sc into ring.  (10 sts)

Ignoring ch-1, begin crocheting in a spiral. To help keep track of rounds, place a stitch marker in the first stitch of the round to mark the beginning of the round. Move the marker up as your work progresses.

Round 2:  Work 2 sc in each st around.  (20 sts)

Rounds 3-4:  Sc in each st around.  

Round 5:  Work 2 sc in each st around.  (40 sts)

Rounds 6-10:  Sc in each st around.  

Round 11:  Work 2 sc in each st around.  (80 sts)

Wee Noggin Only  

Rounds 12-27*:  Sc in each st around.  

Sl st in next st.  Fasten off.

Normal Noggin Only

Rounds 12-18:  Sc in each st around.  

Round 19:  *Work 2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 sts,* rep from * to * around.  (100 sts)

Rounds 20-35*:  Sc in each st around.  

Sl st in next st.  Fasten off.

Big Noggin Only

Rounds 12-18:  Sc in each st around.  

Round 19:  *Work 2 sc in next st, sc in next st,* rep from * to * around.  (120 sts)

Rounds 20-43*:  Sc in each st around.  

Sl st in next st.  Fasten off.

* By all means feel free to adjust the number of rows to your preference if you want a taller or shorter hat!  

Earflaps

With CC1, ch 10.  Fasten off.  

Row 1:  Join CC2 in the blo, ch 1, sc in blo of each of first 9 ch, work 3 sc in last ch, sc in unworked loop of each ch along other side of ch to end.  Fasten off.  (21 sts)

Row 2:  Join MC in the blo, ch 1, sc-blo in each of the first 9 sts, work 2 sc-blo in each of the next 3 sts, sc-blo in each st to end.  Fasten off.  (24 sts)

Row 3:  Join CC1 in the blo, ch 1, sc-blo in each of the first 10 sts, work 2 sc-blo in each of the next 3 sts, sc-blo in each st to end.  Fasten off.  (27 sts)

Row 4:  Join MC in the blo, ch 1, sc-blo in each of the first 12 sts, work 2 sc-blo in each of the next 3 sts, sc-blo in each st to end, turn.  (30 sts)

Row 5:  Ch 1, sc-flo in each of first 11 sts, work 2 sc-flo in each of the next 2 sts, sc-flo in each of the next 4 sts, work 2 sc-flo in each of the next 2 sts, sc-flo in each st to end, turn.  (34 sts)

Row 6: Ch 1, sc-flo in each of the first 11 sts, work 2 sc-flo in each of the next 2 sts, sc-flo in each of next 8 sts, work 2 sc-flo in each of next 2 sts, sc-flo in each st to end.  Fasten off.  (38 sts)

Finishing

With MC, sew or sl st (I prefer the look of sl st done along the outside, or right side for this bit) the top o' the hat to the hat band.  Sew or sl st (I prefer the look of the sl st done along the inside, or wrong side, for this bit) the earflaps to the bottom of the hat band.  Fasten off. Weave in all ends.  

Pigtails (make two)

Cut (12) 24-inch strands of MC, CC1, and CC2.  With your finger or a large crochet hook, wiggle a hole/gap in the stitches between Rows 5 and 6 of the bottom of the earflap.  Stuff the strands through the gap and tie in a knot.  Braid the strands and tie at the bottom.

Here is your chance to learn a freeform spiral technique and wear it to prove it! This sweater wrap is crocheted with only a few simple stitches, easy to count increases, and requires no sewing! The spiral technique might take a few tries, but once you get it, there is no stopping you. I was so pleased with my accomplishment that I had to show it off as the focal point of a big, soft, alpaca sweater wrap.

• Henry’s Attic Peruvian Tweed (665 yards per 8 oz skein), 1 skein each in Cream/Beige Tweed #117 (Color A), Gray/Black Tweed #109 (Color B), Taupe/Black Tweed #111 (Color C)
• Henry’s Attic Prime Alpaca (665 yards per 8 oz skein), 1 skein in Silver Gray (Color D)
  Yarn Kit available here!
• 5.0mm (US size H/8) for size small/medium
• 6.5mm (US size K/10.5) for size large/xlarge
• Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

With smaller hook: 7 sts and 4 rows in dc = 2”

With larger hook: 6 sts and 3 rows in dc = 2”

The entire garment is worked with the smaller size hook to obtain size small/medium, or the entire garment is worked with the larger size hook to obtain size large/xlarge.

Vary the position of the increases from round to round, so they don’t line up over each other. This will ensure evenly rounded edges in the completed garment.

Body

Sock it to 'em! It's winter, but that doesn't mean it's not time to show off our legs.

• 4 (5, 5, 6) balls Knit Picks Elegance (70% baby alpaca, 30% silk; 110 yards per 50g) in Color A (shown in Wild Rose)
• 2 (3, 3, 3) balls Knit Picks Elegance Color B (shown in Ash)
• 2 (2, 2, 3) balls Knit Picks Elegance Color C (shown in Coal)
  (Add approx 5% for each additional 1 inch in length you wish to add.)
• 5.00mm (US-H) hook
• 2.5 (3, 3.5, 4, 4.5) yds 1/8” - 1/4” elastic (thinner is better, clear elastic works best)
• 4 – 3/4” buttons (round 4 hole or barrel preferred)
• Sewing needle
• Thread to match elastic or yarn (if using clear elastic)
• Blunt tip yarn needle for weaving in ends

Skirt as shown is 16” long and sits just below the navel.  Length can be increased in ½” increments.

Instructions for the waistband of the skirt correspond to sizes as follows: XS (S, M, L, XL).  These sizes correspond to the hip measurement at its widest point as follows:

32 - 34” = XS
35 - 37” = S
38 - 40” = M
41 - 43” = L
44 - 46” = XL

Modifications available: can be lengthened.  Make certain to allow for additional length when purchasing yarn. Follow guidelines in Materials section.

8 stitches, 10 rows = 2 inches

The flounce of this skirt is constructed as one long striped panel (similar to a scarf).  Back-loop-only stitches are used to encourage the skirt to bend at the points of the pleats.  After the length of flounce is completed, the ends are slip-stitched together. The waist is then stitched in the round. Finally, a simple belt, reinforced with elastic rings, is created in order to secure the skirt and add a contrasting band of dark color at the waist (a minimizing effect).  This removable belt can be used by itself or with tops, as well as secured to the skirt.

Dart Stitch (ds) – insert hook into next stitch, yo and draw loop through, yo, insert hook into next stitch, yo and draw loop through, yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook. Click here for more on how to work the dart stitch on the return row.

2 Half-Double Cluster (2hdc-cl) – yo and insert hook into next stitch, yo and draw loop through, yo and insert hook into SAME stitch, yo and draw loop through, yo and draw through all 5 loops on hook.

Click here for instruction on how to make the double base chain (db-ch).

Mariefred is a lovely little town on the lake Mälaren, in Sweden. It’s close to the place where I spend my summer holiday, and I often go there during my stay. Not only because of the beautiful old houses, the castle of Gripsholm and the view over the lake, but also because there is a fantastic yarn store there. It’s called Hamilton Design and is owned by the wonderfully talented (and very nice) knit designer Cornelia Tuttle Hamilton. The place is packed with beautiful yarns, and many of them can’t be found anywhere else in Scandinavia.

During my latest visit to this store, a small, triangular scarf caught my eye. It was Cornelia's own design of course – knitted in garter stitch from side to side in two different yarns: one a fine mohair, the other a thicker variegated alpaca. Simple, yet beautiful. I bought the materials and thought I’d knit it. But before I had the time to get hold of my knitting needles, I started to think about how nice it would be to work these yarns in crochet instead. And why not develop the shaping a bit, creating something of a bat-wing shape so the scarf/small shawl would behave better and stay on my shoulders?

I ended up with the pattern below. I even hesitate to call it a pattern – it’s more of a method, or a basic recipe. You can use it with any yarns of your choice. The yarns specified are the ones I used, but that’s just a suggestion. You can easily make it bigger, for a full-sized shawl – but then you’ll need more yarn, of course.

• 1 ball Kid Mohair Classic (Adriafil), 80% kid mohair, 20% nylon, (230m/251yds per 25g/0,87oz ball)
• 1 skein Atacama (Araucania), 100% alpaca, (100m/110yds per 50g/1,75oz ball)
• 6.0mm (US J-10) hook
• A slightly larger hook is useful when making the fringe

One size.

Gauge is not important in this pattern.

This scarf is crocheted from side to side. The ”basic” stitch used is dc (but see description of wedges below). Turning chains do not count as a stitch.