Granny Square: Make 10, (22, 36)

Keep your little piggies as warm as bacon with these cute and cheery Mary-Jane slippers. They will add a bounce to your step, reminiscent of spring lambs, and the flowers will remind you of the happy spring flowers hiding under the snow. Suddenly, it just feels like spring...

• Milano Crepe double knit wool, 50g, 1 and a half balls. Yarn scraps for flowers.
• 4.5mm (US G) hook
• Yarn needle

Slipper measures approximately 23cm (9 inches) along bottom from toe to heel (unstretched).

• Slipper is worked from the toe to heel in circular and regular crochet.
• If you want a longer or shorter slipper, adjust the pattern between the rows 14-23 or 26-51.

Sc = single crochet
Sl st = slip stitch
Ch = chain
St(s) = stitch(es)

Early spring in Oregon is a fickle thing. Some days it’s nice out, some days it rains, most days it does both. And of course, as soon as I see a 55- or 60-degree day, I’m unpacking my summery clothes, even if it’s still March. This seasonal wardrobe change requires a safety net for the first few weeks, though, in the form of a shrug. Shrug Off Winter is just the thing – a bit lacy so it can be worn with jeans or with a skirt, but not so lacy that you’ll freeze in your summery top. Crochet it in a springy color and you can wear it all day; crochet a darker one and it can take you all the way through the cooler nights in summer and into early fall.

• Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino (55% Merino Wool, 33% Microfibre, 12% Cashmere; 137 yds/50g) - 8 (8, 8, 9) balls in color 202
• 3.5mm/Size E hook
• 2 small buttons
• yarn needle

Small (Medium, Large, Extra-Large)

Sleeve Width: 17 (17.5, 18, 18.5) inches
Sleeve length: 11 (11, 11, 12) inches
Bottom back width: 16 (17, 18.5, 19) inches
Back length (from neck to bottom hem): 8.5 (8.5, 9, 9.5) inches

(Shown in size Large in photos) 

2 motifs and 2 rows = 1"

Cluster Stitch: Ch 3. Make three dc around post of previous dc worked but leave last loop of dc on hook.  Dc in next ch-3 sp and leave last loop on hook. Yo and draw through all five loops.

Inc Cluster: Ch 3. Make three dc around post of previous dc worked but leave last loop of dc on hook.  Tr in second turning ch (or through the center of the post of the last tr worked) of previous row and leave last loop on hook. Yo and draw through all five loops.

Sleeves (make 2)

Ch 108 (111, 114, 117).

This bag was designed with two people in mind. My sister, who is about to add two boys to the family, and my mother, the eternal farmers market shopper. I loved the idea of the side pocket for a small water bottle or baby bottle. The wide body is a necessity for crusty French baguettes, flowers, market veggies, and diapers.

900 yds pure wool for the body and sides, 220 yds for the assembly and straps, and some scrap wool for the contrast stitching if desired. (Anne Frost's bag, pictured in gray, used Reynolds Lite Lopi - 6 skeins for the body, 3 skeins contrast color for the sides and straps, and 1 skein of another contrast color for stitching)

Red/orange sample used:

• Patons Classic Wool (100% Pure Virgin Wool/100 g/3.5 oz/223 yds worsted weight) MC: 4 skeins Paprika
• Cascade 220 (100% Wool/100 g/3.5 oz/220 yds worsted weight): CC 1 skein 9404 red
• 1-2 ozs wool in shades of theme color for stitching
• size I (5.5mm) hook
• optional size J (6mm) hook for foundation chain on strap, see note
• Thick yarn needle for weaving ends, attaching straps, and embellishments.

Before felting = 24”w x 15”l

After felting = 16”w x 11”l

5”x5” = 15 sts x 12 rows

• After making the bag I realized my sister would need two pockets for the twins' bottles. You should have enough yarn to make both sides with pockets. To be sure, simply make up the sides first, following pocket side directions, then make up the body of the bag.
• When making up the straps, it’s a good idea to use a “J” hook to make the foundation chain then switch to the smaller hook for the remaining rows. During the felting process, the foundation chain will typically end up tighter than the last row.
• Finally, the pattern was designed with the sides of the bag 1” below the top of the main body. If you want the sides to be even with the top, simply make the sides 15” and 24” and attach them level to the top of the bag. Felting is more art than science, so some degree of variance in measurements can be expected.

Begin Side 1

With MC, ch 18

R1 Hdc in 3 rd ch from hook, hdc in each st across. Ch 2, turn.

R2 Hdc in first st and each st across. Ch 2, turn. – 17 hdc

Repeat row 2 for 14”. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Side 2 – pocket

With MC, ch 18

R1 Hdc in 3 rd ch from hook, hdc in each st across. Ch 2, turn.

R2 Hdc in first st and each st across. Ch 2, turn. – 17 hdc

Repeat row 2 for 23”. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Body

With MC, chain 73

R1 Hdc in 3 rd ch from hook, hdc in each st across. Ch 2, turn.

R2 Hdc in first st and each st across. Ch 2, turn. – 72 hdc

Repeat row 2 for 35”. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Fold top 1” of bag down and tack in place along bottom edge. This will give added strength to the bag.

To assemble bag

Fold Side 2 to form pocket. Once folded this side should be the same size as the other side, about 14”. With WS facing each other, pin side 2 to bag beginning 1” below top. With contrast color, and beginning at the top of the bag, work a row of sc to attach side, working through all layers. Work one row of sl st back around. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Pin and attach other side in the same manner. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Straps – Make 2

With cc, ch 126

R1 Hdc in 3 rd ch from hook, hdc in each st across. Ch 2, turn.

R2-4 Hdc in first st and each st across. Ch 2, turn. – 125 hdc

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

To felt

Throw bag and straps into a zippered pillowcase, with a pair of jeans or old shoes, and about ¼ cup of baking soda OR some dish detergent. Wash on hot/cold setting. Do not let the wash go to spin cycle, which could cause the bag to stretch out of shape. Check bag and straps after each cycle. If neede, reshape strap, by pulling, to keep it from curling and felting into itself. Swipe your hand through the pocket to make sure there is no felting to the body of the bag. Continue cycles until bag measures 16”w x 11” l. Sample took 2 cycles. Remove from wash and roll in a towel to remove excess water. Bag may look distorted. Gently, but firmly, reshape bag and straps. If needed, bag may be placed in the dryer for a little bit. Place bag out to dry. Insert a form to help bag keep its shape. I used a plastic drawer from my craft cart.

Straps

After bag is dry, attach handles using running stitch. Place each strap 4” from the top of the bag and 4” in from the side. For extra security, tack down the inside of the handles where they join to the top of the bag.

You can use any embellishment you wish. I intended to make this flower by cutting my felted swatches, in various colors, to the template and sewing them together. Instead, I found a cheap vinyl remnant at my local fabric store. I cut the vinyl to the template and sewed them into place using a thick yarn needle and a little force.

To make flower in the sample, you just need some fabric remnant or felted swatches and some scrap yarn.

Crocheted button center

Round 1: Ch 2. Place 10 sc in 1 st ch and join to beginning of round with sl st.

Round 2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc in each st around and join with sl st.

Round 3: Ch 1. Rev sc around and join. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Trace and cut flower templates (click thumbnail at right for full-size image). Layer flower with crocheted, or ready made, button on top. Sew through all layers with thick yarn needle and attach to bag like a button.

After a nice, relaxing summer and autumn, we are now heading towards winter. But winter garments and accessories do not need to come in boring and dull dark colours.

So with that in mind, I came up with the design for the Rose set, which includes a handbag, a headband and a matching rose to pin on your jacket. It all comes down to the accessories, right?

And since I’m also such a pink person, I couldn’t think of a better colour than pink for the set. This way you will certainly be seen.

The items in the Rose set are all felted, which makes the headband nice and warm, and it also gives the handbag sturdiness so it does not need to be lined.

The set is crocheted with bulky weight wool, so the items are fast projects to make.

• Cortina - Bulky weight wool (50g/55m or 1.8 oz/55yds): 4 skeins (3 skeins for the handbag & 1 skein for the headband)
• Size 7.0mm (K) hook
• Yarn needle

Before felting:

Handbag: 31.5 x 28 cm (12.4 x 11 in)

Headband: 10 x 50 cm ( 4 x 1.7 in) without tassels; tassel 32 cm (12.6 in).

After felting:

Handbag: 24.5 x 26 cm (9.6 x 10.2 in)

Headband: 8 x 47 cm (3.1 x 18.5 in); tassels 24 cm (9.5 ins)

Rose: 8 cm across (3.1 in)

Before felting: 10 dc x 6 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 in)

After felting: 13 dc x 6.5 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 in)

• The yarn needs to be 100% wool in order for the felting process to succeed.
• The items can be stretched and formed into correct shaping and sizes when wet.

Rose (make 5 alike)

Ch 4, sl st in first ch to create ring.

Round 1: *Ch 3, 1 sc.* Rep *-* 5 times –- 6 bows.

Round 2: Work in each bow: *1 sc, 3 dc, 1 sc*. Join to frst sc with a sl st. Cut thread, weave in ends. Attach to a pin, to be worn on a jacket.

Handbag

Front

Ch 32.

Row 1: Work 1 dc in the 4th ch from the hook and in each ch across – 30 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 2: Work dc in each st across. Ch 3, turn.

Row 3 - 12: Rep row 2.

Row 13: Work dc in each of first 2 sts, dc2tog, *dc in each of next 2 sts, dc2tog.* Rep *-* across, ending row with dc in each of last 2 sts –- 23 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Rows 14-16: Work dc in each st across. Ch 3, turn.

Row 17: Make opening for hand. Work dc in each of first 6 sts, ch 11 loosely, skip 11 sts before working dc in last 6 sts. Ch 3, turn.

Row 18: Work dc in each of first 6 sts, work 11 dc in ch-11 space, work dc in each of last 6 sts. Ch 3, turn.

Rows 19-21: Work dc in each st across. Ch 3, turn.

Cut thread, weave in ends.

Back

Work same as for front.

Assemble the handbag:

Sew sides and bottom of front and back pieces together, with their right sides facing each other. Turn right side out. Crochet 3 roses to be sewn on the front side. The roses can be sewn on both before and after the felting process. However, keep in mind that the roses will shrink, so the ‘placement’ of the roses may alter after the handbag has been felted if they are sewn on beforehand. I sewed on the rose after the felting on the handbag that is displayed in the picture.

Headband

Ch 43 to make a tassel.

Row 1: Work 2 dc in the 3rd ch from the hook – 3 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 2: Work 2 dc in the first st, dc in next st, 2 dc in the last st – 5 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 3: Work 2 dc in the first st, dc in each of next 3 sts, 2 dc in the last st – 7 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 4: Work 2 dc in the first st, dc in each of next 5 sts, 2 dc in the last st – 9 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 5: Work dc in each st across. Ch 3, turn.

Row 6: Work dc in each of first 4 sts, 2 dc in the next st, dc in each of last 4 sts – 10 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 7-25: Work dc in each st across. Ch 3, turn.

Row 26: Work dc in each of first 4 sts, dc2tog, dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 27: Ch 2. Work dc2tog, dc in each of next 5 sts across, dc2tog over last 2 sts – 7 dc.

Continue to dec 2 dc on each row (one at each end of the row) until there are only 3 dc left. Work 3 dc together. Ch 40 to make another tassel. Cut thread, weave in ends.

Felting

Put all items through a hot machine wash to shrink and felt.

Being a bag-obsessed girl, I’ve always wanted to try crocheting a bag with hemp yarn.  It’s not only a durable fiber but it comes in way cute colors. On a recent trip to a not-so-local yarn store I found some hemp yarn that was half hemp and half wool. It looked perfect for playing with. I tried to conceive of a brilliant design on which I could test the yarn, but I had nothing.

One day, the zipper on my wallet broke. I needed a replacement quick. With Valentine’s Day looming ahead I worked up a heart design and grabbed the hemp. You could say that for all my grand intentions the conception of this pouch was a little half-hearted.

• Hemp Yarn, (55% Hemp, 45% Wool, 200 yds/skein) 1 skein Black, 1 skein Red
• Size F/3.75 mm hook
• Small yarn needle
• Zipper

5" wide x 3.5" high

3.5 stitches and 4 rows = 1 inch

When changing colors, always change the yarn when there are still two loops of the last single crochet stitch on the hook. Finish the last yarn over with the new color.

Always pick up the new color and drop the old color on the wrong side of the fabric.

Use one turning chain at the end of each row. The turning chain does not count as a stitch.

I’m so happy to be in Montana where little sheep are running free and being chased by wolves.  No, really! Except instead of wolves it is more like coyotes or mountain lions. The yarn I’ve used for this skirt is certified ‘predator friendly’ meaning that the farm is run with respect for all living things, not just the cute ones. You can read more about it at www.lambandwool.com. It’s certified organic too! I hope you’ll try ordering from them or poke around for a local homespun in your neck of the woods.

I’ve had a bit of culture (and temperature) shock since leaving Japan and I was bemoaning the nippy winds that prevent me from wearing my summer skirt collection during winter.  Cozy yarn to the rescue!  This overskirt is like putting on a sweater, just lower down.  Of a rather chunky weight, it is quick to work up on big hooks and just a little bit delicate with a Kid Silk Haze trim and a nice bell shape.  You can wear it over skirts or pants, depending on how weird you want to look.  Either way, you’ll be warm.  Plus the rhythm of crochet might help you realize where you are and that it is okay (at least it does for me).

• Thirteen Mile Yarn (A) 2 skeins at ~110yds/skein. The color is a natural chocolate brown that comes straight off the sheep. This is a ‘chunky’ weight yarn usually used with size 11 knitting needles.
• 1 ball of Rowan’s Kid Silk Haze (B) in Villian (25g per 229yds). You could substitute another lightweight yarn easily, in either a tonal or contrast color. The gauge isn’t crucial for the trim.  
• Hook sizes F/5 (4mm), and L/11 (8mm), M (9mm), N (10mm), and P (11.5mm)
• ¾”- to 2”-wide ribbon or other belting material, long enough to go around your low waist and tie in a friendly bow. The picture shows a 3/4"-wide knit belt that is 56" long.

Pattern as written has a 36-inch dropped waist that stretches to 42 inches and can be tightened to 32 inches without looking odd.  You can add or remove a pattern repeat to change size 3 inches at a time (details included in pattern).

10 stitches = 4in, 10cm; 10 rows = 4in, 10cm in single crochet with yarn A and 8mm hook.

• The turning chain does not count as a stitch unless indicated.
• Be sure to read the pattern all the way through before beginning.

Waistband

With 8mm hook and thick yarn (A), chain 7.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd chain and in each chain across.  Ch 1and turn.

It’s so easy to take the ones we love for granted. This autumn, my husband came home from the doctor’s with potentially scary news. All of a sudden, I realized that he might not always be there, healthy and energetic, my rock to rely on. Further medical investigations calmed our worries. But they did not suppress my urge to show him how much I love him. And how does a crocheter show her husband she loves him? By crocheting him something of course!

The result was this scarf in cashmere and wool. I crocheted in secret, and gave it to him for his birthday. And yes, he loves it.

• Yarn: Phildar Laine/Cachemire (65 yards/60 meters per 0.88 oz/25 grams), black 5 balls, grey 3 balls, red 2 balls (1 if you don’t make a fringe), off-white 1 ball.
• Hook: 5 mm (US H-8). A hook one size larger for the fringe.
• Notions: Piece of cardboard for fringe.

Excluding fringe: 9.5 x 52 inches / 24 x 132 cms

18 stitches and 23 rows = 4x4 inches/ 10x10 cm

This scarf is worked lengthwise. When crocheting the foundation chain, I suggest you place a marker in at least every 50th chain. This will save you time when counting.

In the pictures (and in real life), my husband wears the scarf folded double. Warm, comfortable and cozy! This is why you only see one of the two colour repeats that make up the width of the scarf.

The yarn I used can be hard to find in many countries. Please substitute at will, adapting number of stitches and number of rows. This stitch patterns lends itself to wonderful colourplay. Do experiment!

Stitch pattern: Granite stitch

No introduction is needed for this stunning pillow sham. Check out Josi's Spike Stitch Introduction if you'd like more information before diving in.

• 60 yards - color A, DK to Worsted Weight yarn
  (Shown in Patons Classic Merino Wool (100% wool; 223 yds/205 m per 3.50 oz/100 g) color #00240 Leaf Green)
• 240 yards - color B, DK to Worsted Weight yarn
  (Shown in Patons Classic Merino Wool (100% wool; 223 yds/205 m per 3.50 oz/100 g) color #00204 Old Gold)
• 45 yards - color C, DK to Worsted Weight yarn
  (Shown in Patons Classic Merino Wool (100% wool; 223 yds/205 m per 3.50 oz/100 g) color #00214 Dusky Blue)
• US-J hook (6.00mm)

Completed measurements, with edging 17" x 18.5"

Gauge Swatch
Start with 21 ch, and work for front of pattern repeating only 3 times between { } or 20 sc per Row. Follow pattern through Row 24 without changing color.

6 stitches (1 repeats of pattern) = 2"

12 rows = 2.5"

US Pattern notations used throughout
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet

Front

(A) Base - Using color A, ch of 51

(A) Row 1 (right side) - 1 sc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc into each of the remaining 49 sc (50 sc total), turn.

(A) Row 2 - ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 50 stitches, turn.

(A) Rows 3 to 6 - repeat Row 2, changing to color B at end of Row 6.

(B) Row 7 - ch 1, sc into first stitch, {sc into next stitch, SP-2 over next stitch, SP-3 over next stitch, SP-4 over next stitch, SP-5 over next stitch, SP-6 over next stitch} x 8, sc into last stitch, turn.