Wanted to come up with a hanging kawaii amigurumi for the car. This is what resulted.

Mint Tara Yarn
Autumn Boulce
G hook

6 inches tall

Not important to this pattern

Work in Spiral do not join unless noted

Mint Ice cream scoop

Ch 2
6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
2sc in each stitch around (12sc)
1 sc in first stitch , 2 sc in next stitch, around (18sc)
1 sc in first 2 stitches, 2sc in next stitch (24sc)
1 sc in each stitch around working in Back loops only (24sc)
1 sc in each stitch around (repeat 5 times)

Attach safety eyes and stitch on mouth
Stuff as you close up the top Add some lavender buds

1 dec over first two stitches, 1 sc in next stitch around
1sc in each stitch around (16sc)
Dec around (8 dec)
Dec around (4 dec) finish off leaving a tail to sew the top closed.

Cone

Attach yarn to open back loop with a sl st. Ch 1
1 sc in each stitch around join to first sc ch1
1 dec sc over first 2 stitches, 1 sc around join to first dec sc ch 1
1 sc in each stitch around join to first sc ch 1 (16 sc)
1 dec sc over first 2 stitches, 1 sc around join to first dec sc , ch 1
1 sc in each stitch around, join to first sc ch 1 (10sc)
Stuff cone
Dec sc around Join to first dec sc
Sc around (3 times) do not join
Stuff cone tight add some lavender buds
Dec aorund to the end finish off sew in ends

Hang

Now take some extra yarn or ribbon attach to top of the ice cream and hang in your car for a nice kawaii smelling car deodorizer

I’d like to share an original pattern of mine, cute bear for take care your key.
* easy for beginner
* can finish within an hour

1. Crochet Hooker size of 2.5 mm.
2. Acrylic Yarn (recommended) 4 ply - 1 skien
3. 1 pair of black beads as for eyes
4. fiberfill or polyester to stuff the head

approximately 2 inches wide

Gauge is not important. Depends on yarn and hooker you use but I would recommended hooker size 2.5 mm. with 4 ply yarn.

ch - chain
sc - single crochet
dec - decrease
sl st - slip stitch
sts - stiches

HEAD

ROW 1 Ch 2, 6 sc in second chain from hook (Magic Ring) (6 sts)

ROW 2 2 sc, in each sc around (12 sts)

ROW 3 1 sc, 2 sc in next sc , repeat 6 times (18 sts)

ROW 4 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat 6 times (24 sts)

ROW 5 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat 6 times (30 sts)

ROW 6 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat 6 times (36 sts)

ROW 7-10 (sc 36 sts)

ROW 11 10 sc, dec 1 , repeat 3 times (33 sts)

ROW 12 9 sc, dec 1 , repeat 3 times (30 sts)

ROW 13 sc (30 sts)

ROW 14 3 sc, dec 1, repeat 6 times (24 sts)

ROW 15 sc (24 sts)

ROW 16 2 sc, dec 1 , repeat 6 times (18 sts)

ROW 17 1 sc, dec1 , repeat 6 times, sl st in next sc
Stuff head with polyester and bind off and weave in loose end (12 sts)

- - -

EAR with skin color yarn (make 2)

ROW 1 Ch 2, 6 sc in second chain from hook (6 sts)

ROW 2 2 sc, in each sc around (12 sts)

ROW 3-4 sc, sl st in next sc, bind off and leaving long tail for sewing with body. NO NEED TO STUFF (12 sts)

any comments are welcome :)

I discovered yesterday that inspiration can come from anywhere, at any time.

Picture the setting: you're sitting on your bum after a hard day's work, waiting for the chicken to boil down into stock, and you're watching a bit of "The Bionic Woman" from a couple weeks ago. Your hands start to itch, then twitch, and then you realise: you are a crocheter, you MUST crochet. Well, it's about 10:30 at night, and you know that if you stay up past 11, you won't get enough sleep, plus there's every chance that your gorgeous two-year-old son will want you to get up and play with him at 6 am. So what do you do? Start crocheting, knowing that it will keep you up late, or do you ignore the urges and try to take your mind off it with a Coke float and more "Bionic Woman"?

Well, I can tell you what I did...

Both! I poured myself a lovely Coke float, grabbed the new skein of red Pure Gold DK that I've had lying around, and I decided to make some little cherries with smiley faces because they're just so DARNED cute.

A small amount of red yarn
A small amount of green yarn
A small amount of black yarn
Crochet hook, the smallest size you can use that won't split your yarn when you work with it
Tapestry needle

The cherries themselves will be about 3/4" tall if you use the same yarn I did (DK) and the same size hook (2.50mm). Obviously, they will vary somewhat with your choice of yarn/hook.

Gauge is not used in this pattern; it will vary depending on the yarn and hook you use.

Abbreviations used
sc: single crochet
st: stitch
inc: increase
invdec: invisible decrease

If there is anything you don't understand in this pattern, please comment below and I'll respond to you personally.

Cherries
The cherries are worked in spiral rounds. You should use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round, so you don't lose your place.

With red yarn, make a ring, work 6 sc into ring. (6 st)

Rnd 1: 2 sc in each st around. (12)
Rnds 2-3: inc 3, evenly spaced. (18 st at the end of rnd 3)
Rnd 4: work even. (18)
Rnd 5: invdec 6, evenly spaced. (12)

Now embroider a face onto the cherry using black yarn, using the photo as a guide. I used French knots for the eyes and back-stitching for the mouth.

Leaves
Make two leaves per cherry.

With green yarn, ch 5. Now work into the back loops of the ch: sc into 2nd ch from hook, then hdc in the next st, dc in the next st. 5 sc in the last stitch and turn to work in the front "v" loops of the foundation chain: dc in the next st, hdc in the next st, sc in the final st. Sl st into the last ch of the foundation chain (the one immediately before you made your first sc). Finish off and weave in ends.

Stems
For each stem, cut a length of green yarn about 4 times the length you want your stems to end up. To be safe, I used lengths about 2 feet long and cut them down as necessary once I was finished assembling!

To make the stem, thread the yarn onto a tapestry needle and through the "fat" end of one leaf, then through the top of the cherry (outside to inside). Then thread the yarn back out the top of the cherry and through the fat end of the other leaf. Tie a square knot in the yarn; this will make the leaves be securely attached. Finally, use the two halves of your length of yarn to make a twisted cord, and tie off.

Final assembly
To finish your cherries, stuff each one firmly, and close the holes by finishing off your red yarn, then threading the end onto a tapestry needle. Thread the yarn through the front loop only of each stitch around the hole, and pull tight; the hole will close naturally. Weave in the ends.

Oh, yeah, and don't forget to grin stupidly when examining your final product :)

http://noisypitta.blogspot.com

Just in time for Easter, you can make cute little baby birds or chicks! These guys are perfect for stuffing Easter baskets or just putting on your desk at work.

* A small amount of yellow (chick) or blue (baby bird) yarn, double-knitting weight
* A very small amount of black yarn, same weight as above
* A small amount of polyester stuffing
* 2.50 mm crochet hook
* Tapestry needle
* 1 pipe cleaner, orange (chick) or yellow (baby bird)

It doesn't really matter what type of yarn you use or what size hook you use; it will just change the size of the finished bird. I would suggest you use whatever yarn you can find, and use the smallest hook that you have that won't split the yarn when you work with it. The bird in the picture was made with 100% acrylic DK yarn and a 2.50 mm crochet hook, and stands about 1-1/2 inches tall.

Again, the finished size depends on the type of yarn and hook you use. It will be about 1-1/2 to 2 inches tall.

Gauge is not used in this pattern.

Please note that this bird is intended to be enjoyed by adults and older children only. Because there may be sharp ends on the pipe cleaners, I would avoid giving it to a child under three. (Also, if your kids are anything like mine is, they'll be quite good at pulling its little eyes out.)

This bird is worked in spiral rounds, so do not join at the end of each round. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.

Abbreviations used:
mr: make a ring
sc: single crochet
st: stitch
inc: increase
invdec: invisible decrease

Making the body:
Make a ring, and work 6 sc into the ring. (6 st)

Rnd 1: 2 sc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 2: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st) 6 times. (18)
Rnds 3-6: inc 3 times evenly. (30 st at the end of rnd 6)
Rnds 7-8: work even. (30)
Rnds 9-12: invdec 3 times evenly. (18 st at the end of rnd 12)
Rnd 13: (invdec over next 2 st, sc in next st) 6 times. (12)

At this point, cut the yarn about 20 cm from your work, and pull the loop on your crochet hook bigger and bigger until the tail of the yarn comes through and you're left with a single strand coming out of your work.

Cut a 2" length of pipe cleaner and fold it in half; this will be your beak. Insert the two ends between rounds 7 and 8, two posts apart. Push the beak in until it's of the desired size, then twist the ends together inside so they're secure. Cut off any excess pipe cleaner.

With the tapestry needle and the black yarn, embroider a French knot for each eye, using the photo as a guide to placement. Don't forget to use a dab of craft glue on each French knot to hold it together, or it is likely to unravel.

Making and inserting the feet:
This part of the pattern is the most difficult to describe, so I've drawn a diagram:

The long and short of it is: use the remaining pipe cleaner to fashion two three-toed birds' feet, with the leg sticking upright, using the photo as a guide to the shape of the feet.

The legs should be placed between rounds 11 and 12, 9 posts apart. To fix them in place, push the leg through the fabric, then twist it into a loop, which then lies flat against the fabric on the inside. I like to think of this configuration kind of like how you would imagine a snake coiled up in the bottom of a basket. Anyway, this whole exercise is to ensure that the leg can't simply be pulled out, so any way you can accomplish that is sufficient.

Finishing the body:
Now that you've finished the eyes, beak and feet, you can stuff your bird with a bit of polyester stuffing, and close the hole. I like to under-stuff these birds because they make quite good stress toys and they're fun to squeeze!

Close the hole by threading the end of your yarn onto a tapestry needle and inserting it through the front loop only of each st around. Pull the yarn tight, and the hole will close naturally. Then weave in the ends.

Making the wings (optional):
It's up to you whether you choose to put wings on your bird; some people insist they're just as cute without. If you would like to add wings, as in the picture, here's how you do it:

Make a ring, and work 6 sc into the ring. (6 st)

Rnd 1: 2 sc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 2: work even. (12)
Rnd 3: sc in the first 6 st, ch 1. Now, pinch the fabric together and for the next 6 st, stitch through both layers of the fabric. You will have stitched the wing closed, into a half-circle shape.

Fasten off, leaving a 20 cm tail. Repeat for the second wing.

To finish the bird, whipstitch the wings to its sides, using the photo as a guide.

noisypitta.blogspot.com
noisypitta.etsy.com

Life is always fun with a Pisces around. You never know what she's going to do next!

Color A – 1 skein (120 yd) 4/worsted weight yarn
Color B - scrap 4/worsted weight yarn
Color C - scrap 4/worsted weight yarn
Size F-5 (3.75 mm) crochet hook
Felt (optional)
2 15-mm amigurumi eyes
Polyester fiberfill or stuffing of choice
Yarn needle
Stitch markers

About 7.5” tall.

Not necessary.

http://www.crochetkitten.com/files/Pisces_Kitten.pdf

Aries is a take-charge type of gal with a good head on her shoulders. She follows her dreams with enthusiasm.

MC – 1 skein (120 yd) 4/worsted weight yarn
CC - scrap 4/worsted weight yarn
Size F-5 (3.75 mm) crochet hook
Felt (optional)
2 15-mm amigurumi eyes
Polyester fiberfill or stuffing of choice
Yarn needle
Stitch markers

About 7.5” tall.

Not necessary.

Pattern is worked continuously without joining or turning between rounds. To help keep track of your stitches, it may be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round.

http://www.crochetkitten.com/files/Aries_Kitten.pdf

This little alien has been made in the Japanese amigurumi style - in a continuous spiral with no slip stitching to join up separate rounds. The head with antenna is very easy to make - but those feet are quite a challenge and may take a few goes to get right. Feel free to try something simpler for the feet if you like - if there is an easier way I'd love to know!

Green yarn
Black yarn
Fibrefill
Crochet hook suitable to achieve a tight gauge with the yarn
Yarn needle

My little alien is only about 14cm tall - but this will vary depending on your yarn and hook size.

Keep this as tight as you can, for the stuff sections you want to be sure the fibrefill doesn't show through and for the feet you want them nice and stiff.

If you spot any mistakes or typos then please let me know.

Antenna & body:

ch 3 join with sl st to form a circle
Row 1. 6 sc in circle - then continue working in a spiral
Row 2. 2 sc in each sc (12 sc)
Row 3. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc* repeat around (18 sc)
Row 4-6. sc around for 3 rows
Row 7. *2 sc tog, sc* repeat around (12 sc)
Row 8. *2 sc tog* repeat around (6 sc)

Stuff with fibrefill

Row 9-16. sc around for 8 rows
Row 17. 2 sc in each sc (12 sc)

Insert a pipe cleaner into the antenna now if you want it to be bendy

Row 18. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc* repeat around (18 sc)
Row 19. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc* repeat around (24 sc)
Row 20. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 3 sc* repeat around (30 sc)
Row 21. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 4 sc* repeat around (36 sc)
Row 22. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 5 sc* repeat around (42 sc)
Row 23-31. sc around for 9 rows
Row 32. *2 sc tog, sc in next 5 sc* repeat around (36 sc)
Row 33. *2 sc tog, sc in next 4 sc* repeat around (30 sc)
Row 34. *2 sc tog, sc in next 3 sc* repeat around (24 sc)
Row 35. *2 sc tog, sc in next 2 sc* repeat around (18 sc)
Row 36. sc around

Stuff with fibrefill

Row 37. *sc tog, sc* repeat around (12 sc)
Row 38. 2 sc tog around (6 sc)

Finish off

Feet (x 2):

ch 3 join with sl st to form a circle
Row 1. 4 sc in circle – then continue working in a spiral
Row 2. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc* repeat twice (6 sc)
Row 3. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 2 sc* repeat twice (8 sc)
Row 4. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 3 sc* repeat twice (10 sc)
Row 5. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 4 sc* repeat twice (12 sc)
Row 6. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 5 sc* repeat twice (14 sc)
Row 7. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 6 sc* repeat twice (16 sc)
Row 8. *2 sc in 1st sc, sc in next 7 sc* repeat twice (18 sc)

Toes:

Now it starts to get tricky…

First toe -

Row 1. sc in next 2 sc, ch 1, sc in next 3 sc on the other side of the foot (count back from where you are 6 stitches - then work 3 sc in the next 3 sc) to make a continuous spiral of 6 sc

Row 2-5. sc around (6 sc)
Row 6. 2 sc tog around (3 sc)

sl st down the inside edge of the toe

sl st next sc tog with sc on the other side

Second toe -

Row 1. sc in next 2 sc, ch 1, sc in next 2 sc on the other side, ch 1
(for next sc work on other side to make another continuous spiral)

Row 2-5. sc around (6 sc)
Row 6. 2 sc tog around (3 sc)

sl st down the inside edge of the toe

sl st next sc tog with sc on the other side

Third toe -

Row 1. sc in next 5 sc, ch 1
(for next sc work on other side to make another continuous spiral)
Row 2-4. sc around (6 sc)
Row 5. 2 sc tog around (3 sc)

sl st down the outside edge of the foot (from the tip of the toe all the way to the bottom of the heel)

Finish off

Legs (x 2):

ch 6, join with a sc and continue in a spiral leaving the end open
Row 1-4. sc around (6 sc)
sl st into next stitch and finish off leaving a long end of yarn

Making the alien up:

Attach the leg tubes to the feet right at the bottom of the heel. The feet curve inwards so you will need to turn one foot over before sewing on the leg so that you can have your alien’s feet curving towards each other. Stuff the legs with a little fibrefill and then attach them to the bottom of the body as centrally as you can. You may have to play about with the placement of them a little to make sure the alien doesn’t topple over when finished. Using a length of black yarn sew on the eyes where and how you want them.

Finished!

I've been crocheting a lot of animals lately and technically since they are all crocheted in the round they are called Amigurumi. So here goes my Owl Amigurumi pattern. Now this pattern is for the basic body. You can add whatever you will to make this owl YOURS. I added easy hot glued google eyes, little crochet wings, crocheted talons and because I had it at the time a maple leaf nose. (I now add a felt nose)

You'll need some scraps of Each color you will be using as well as an F or G crochet hook.
(In the picture I used Sage Red Heart 4ply acrylic Yarn. )

If you will be crocheting the wings, talons, and eyes you will need more.

For an Owl exactly like that in the picture:
Sage Yarn
Chocolate Yarn
Fiber Fill
Tapestry Needle
Google Eyes
Hot Glue/gun
Felt (nose)

The size depends on your needle size and yarn thickness. In this version I used a size G needle and 4ply acrylic yarn. It is 3 inches High and about about 2.5 inches stuffed.

Gauge is not important for this project.

Talons are crocheted in one piece and then hotglued or sewn to the bottom of the Owl.

Crochet in the Round without joining.(spiral) Mark the end of rounds with a stitch marker to keep track of rows.

Body:
Chain 2
1)6sc in 2nd st from hook (6sc) Mark end

2)2sc in each st around (12sc) Mark end

3)1 sc in first st, 2sc in next st, around (18sc) Mark End

4)1 sc in next 2 st, 2sc in 3rd st around (24sc) mark end

5)sc in back loops only around (24sc) mark end

6-13)sc in each st around (8x's)At the end of last round(13)ch1 turn

14-15)sc in next 16 st (16sc)ch1 turn

17)sc in first st., dec over next 2st,across (6sc,5dec) ch1 turn

18)dec over first 2st, 1sc across (3sc,4dec) ch1 turn

19)sc across ch1 turn (7sc)

20)1sc, dec over next 2st across (3sc,2dec) ch1 turn

21)dec over first 2st, 1sc across (1sc,2dec) ch1 turn

22)sc across (3sc) ch 1 turn

23)dec over first 2sc, 1sc (1dec, 1sc) ch1 turn

24) dec over 2sc end off leave a long tail to sew (1dec)

Stuff

Take a tapestry needle and sew the flap(made in row14+) to front making sure to pinch the ears (top)

Add eyes (google eyes, embroider, sequins, beads)

Talons (feet)
ch 3, hdc in first ch, 1sc in first ch (4x's)ch1 turn
sc across (7sc)2x's end off

Wings (make 2)
ch6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 hdc, 1 dc,1 hdc,1 sc ch1 turn
dec 2x's, sl st in last st end off Leave tail to sew to Body

First published at MomwithahookBlog

Great beginner amigurumi project.

Medium worsted-weight yarn
Crochet hook size D3 (U.S.)
White ribbon or felt
Safety eyes or eyes of your choice (I used black yarn to embroider them on mine)
Stuffing
Yarn needle

Finished kisses are 2" tall.

Just make sure your stitches are firm and uniform.

Kiss Body:

These quick and easy balloons are great for anyone new to amigurumi.

Worsted weight yarn in color of your choice
Size U.S. E4 crochet hook
Yarn needle
Stuffing
Safety eyes and nose (or embroider your own)
Swizzle sticks or wooden skewers for balloon "string"

Large balloon is approx. 3" tall
Small balloon is approx. 2" tall.

Not necessary, just make sure your stitches are firm and even.

Large Balloon:

I made this little ball of love for my sister, it will be one of her gifts. The inspiration came from a famous film : Arthur and the Minimoys.
It's very easy to make and nobody resist to give it hugs!
Have a lot of fun !
Pour mes chères fées du crochet, voici la version française:
http://helpcrochet.free.fr/romeo.html
Joyeux Noël!

*1 ball of fur yarn of your choice but choose a glitter white if possible
*some white coton thread yarn (for stell hook n°4/2mm)to make wings
*some fine yarn (like baby yarn)flesh tone to make feet
*some bulky weight yarn in black to make eyes
*some white stuff
*crochet hook F (4 mm) and stell hook n°6 (1.75 mm)
*1 tapestry needle
*markers of your choice

You'll obtain a ball with a diameter of approx. 4.5 inch

For fur yarn and hook size F:
10 sc x 6 sc-rows : 2 inchs x 2 inchs
For fine yarn and steel hook size 6:
20 sc x 15 sc-roxs : 2 inchs x 2 inchs

The body is worked in round, do not join with a slip stitch at the end of each round, use a marker at the beginning of each round.
The Fur Yarn is more dense on the wrong side of the work, so you'll have to turn down the ball before stuff it.

Body:
1st rnd : with crochet hook F and fur yarn, ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook (do not join here and for all rounds)
2nd rnd (inc): 2 sc in each sc => 12 sc