sweater
Icelandic Turtleneck: Finished!
Oh, man am I on a finishing kick!
Back in April of last year I was overwhelmed with excitement for the Crochet Me book. As such, I printed out a heavily marked-up copy of Chloe Nightingale's Icelandic Turtleneck pattern, ordered a bag of Rowan 4 Ply Soft (on closeout; hence the colour I wouldn't ordinarily approach without hazmat gear) from Webs, and started on it while visiting my parents in upstate New York. Because my gauge was way off, I started out following the instructions for size L, aiming to end up with a small.
By... October, I finally started to motor. I brought the project with me on the road for the now-released Crochet Me book tour, and was sitting in an Interweave meeting when I finished the section of working even after the yoke increases. I tossed the in-progress sweater over my head, and couldn't stifle my exclamation of what I'm sure was an expletive on account of it being way. too. big. Especially in the back.
I knew what I had to do to fix it (it wasn't just that my gauge had relaxed a bit), and started right away.
I ripped back to the last round of yoke increases and redid it. Now, I cut one corner in executing this fix. If I had it to do over again, I would not cut this corner. (And no, just because I could rip it all back again doesn't mean I consider that to be a viable option.) I was impatient and mad at myself for not anticipating this issue*, and, well. The corner I cut was that I didn't rip back further; I could have started adjusting the sizing before I did, and because I didn't the sweater is still a little loose at my chest (but not very noticeably so; I can live with it).
*The issue is that I have a very large bust. I wear a 32-D. My back is around an XS and my front a S. I had to cut more than four inches of width from the back of this sweater and about an inch from the front (that was due to my gauge having relaxed).
I figured out where I needed the center of each shoulder to be so I could treat the front and back separately for my calculations. This way, I could alter the back of the sweater to be smaller than the front while ensuring the sleeves would be where they needed to be.
In redoing the final round of yoke increases (Round 8), I cut 7 increases from the front, and most of the increases from the back. I figured out how many to cut by measuring my gauge from the working sweater. I needed to cut 4.5 inches from the back, so I eliminated increases equal to the number of stitches I was getting in 4.5 inches. I ended up having twenty-one more stitches in front than in back.
I also cut four stitches from each armhole, since the armholes were too big my first time.
To compensate for the front still not being small enough to fit snugly, I worked bust darts to cinch the fabric under my bust. That's the perspective, at least, when working from the top down. If I'd been working from the bottom up, I would have used darts to add fabric. Make sense? Anyway, since I could, I simply marked where the decreases should be while I was wearing the sweater, then, in those two spots, I worked a double decrease (in this case, dc3tog) in the same spot on two consecutive rounds. Here's a badly drawn-on image of where I placed the darts.
Here's how the sweater fit after these major adjustments (click for larger images):
The pattern calls for waist and hip shaping, and I did that too, adjusting for having shifted the balance of the sweater. Here's another badly drawn-on image of where the shaping is on the front of the finished sweater. I didn't mark on the photo that I also did a bit of shaping at the sides of the sweater (where seams would be if it had been worked in pieces), since on a few occasions I wanted to decrease or increase by six stitches in a round rather than by the four called for.
Et voila!
Started: April 2007
Finished: 26th January 2008
Pattern: Icelandic Turtleneck by Chloe Nightingale from Crochet Me: Designs to Fuel the Crochet Revolution
Yarn: Rowan 4 Ply Soft from Webs
Hook: 3.75mm Addi Turbo
The 4 Ply Soft is simply perfect for this pattern. The fabric is soft, stretchy, and warm. On account of all that pink, I will not be making the armwarmers. And I will likely wear the top layered over something, like shown here. I definitely want to make another one of these, in a colour I like better. Good thing I wrote all this out here, because the notes I had stuffed in my project bag barely made sense to me even now.
Finally, if it wasn't made apparent by this post, this is an excellent pattern for modifying! I recommend it as a first sweater pattern, since it's so straightforward, and certainly as a first modification pattern, again because it's so straightforward. Rock.
Sweet
Author
By Amy O'Neill Houck
Introduction
This v-neck, cap-sleeved, raglan t-shirt is crocheted in the round from the top-down. It’s seamless, and the top-down construction allows you to try it on as you go. The sweater is designed to be fitted and has a small amount of negative ease, therefore finished measurements should be exactly, or slightly less than your actual measurements. This is a template, not a pattern, and it allows you freedom as far as gauge and stitch pattern go. For more about how this sweater is constructed, check out the article about it. And to connect with other crocheters who are making it, join the crochet-along.
Materials List
- Enough yarn for your sweater. Here's what we used in these samples:
- Julie's Version: Be Sweet Boucle Mohair (100% mohair; 120yds per 50g ball), 3 balls in Wheat
- Andi's Version: Crystal Palace Yarns Meringue (40% Merino Wool, 40% acrylic, 20% elastic nylon fibers; 123 yards/114 meters per 50g ball), 10 balls in Vine Green
- Crochet hook:
- Julie's Version: 6.0mm (US J) hook for neckline, 5.5mm (US I) hook for bust and hemline, 5.0mm (US H) hook for waist
- Andi's Version: 4.0mm (US G) hook
- Scissors
- Yarn needle to weave in ends.
Finished Size
Amy's Version
Custom fit
Gauge
Variable
Notes
Special Stitches:
FPdc – Front post double crochet
BPdc – Back post double crochet
The Pattern
Pattern Template
Gauge
An adequate gauge swatch is essential in this pattern—row gauge is actually not important, because the sweater grows from the top-down, but stitch gauge is. So create a swatch that’s at least 6 inches wide and 3 inches tall. When you’re swatching, you may want to try various needle sizes and stitch patterns to get a fabric that you like. Take your time. Most of the design process happens here. If you’re using a fuzzy yarn, I would recommend a simple stitch pattern—I think hdc works great. And don’t be afraid to use a needle larger than recommended because we want a flexible, not stiff fabric.
Measure your gauge. Make note of it here:
_____________ sts per in/cm.
Andi's Version
Setup
Measure the back of your neck. Multiply this measurement by your gauge: ________ (A)
Divide the number above by 3: ______ (B) Multiply B by 2: ______ (C) (here we’re determining the number of stitches to chain for the sleeves.)
Add C + A: ________ (D)
Add D + 6: ________ (E) (The six stitches we added form the four raglan “seams” plus two stitches for the front of the sweater. E is the required number of stitches needed to begin your sweater, you’ll need to adjust this number, adding the required number stitches for the “turning chain.”)
Instructions
(Replace the letters with the numbers you got in your calculations.)
Neck Shaping
Using the yarn and hook you’ve selected, chain E. Place markers at the seam stitches so you’ll know where to increase in the first row. Skip the first stitch, place a marker at the 2nd stitch, skip B stitches, place a marker at the next stitch, skip A stitches, place a marker at the next stitch, skip B stitches, you should be right before the second to last stitch. Place a marker in the second to last stitch - 4 markers placed.
Note: I used double crochet in the template as an example, but you should feel free to use any stitch or stitch pattern.
Deneen's Version
Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in 4th ch from hk, 3 dc in next st (where marker was placed), dc in each st to 2nd marker, 3 dc in marker st, dc in each st to 3rd marker, 3 dc in marker st, dc in each st to 4th marker, 3 dc in marker st, 2 dc in final st - 10 sts added.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), turn, dc in same st as t-ch, *dc in each st to next 3-dc shell, dc in 1st st of shell, 3 dc in 2nd st of shell, dc in 3rd st of shell, * rep from * to * across until 4 dc shells have been worked, dc in each st to last st, 2 dc in last st (top ch of t-ch) - 10 sts added.
Rep Row 2, until the number of stitches at the back is equal to the number of stitches for the two fronts when added together (plus or minus one stitch is ok). In my model, this took a total of 5 rows.
At the end of the final neck shaping row, ch 1, sl st to join to beg of round to form center V. From now on you will be working in continuous (spiraling) rounds. The center point of the V marks beg/end of each round.
Continuing Raglan Increases
Julie's Version
Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), sk 1st st, *dc in each st to next 3-dc shell, dc in 1st st of shell, 3 dc in 2nd st of shell, dc in 3rd st of shell, * rep from * to * around until 4 dc shells have been worked, dc in each st to end of the round. Do not join. - 8 sts added.
Rnd 2: *Dc in each st to next 3-dc shell, dc in 1st st of shell, 3 dc in 2nd st of shell, dc in 3rd st of shell, * rep from * to * around until 4 dc shells have been worked, dc in each st to end of round. Do not join - 8 sts added.
Continue as in Rnd 2, adding 8 stitches per round until you can comfortably wrap the sleeve cap around the widest part of your arm. (Make sure you stop to try the top on every few rounds.)
Forming the Sleeves
Next Rnd: *Dc in each st to next 3-dc shell, dc in 1st st of shell, 3 dc in 2nd st of shell, dc in 3rd st of shell, ch 2, sk all sts up to next 3-dc shell, dc in 1st st of shell, 3 dc in 2nd st of shell, dc in 3rd st of shell, * rep from * to * once, dc in each st to end of round. Do not join - cap-sleeves formed.
Bodice
Rnd 1: Dc in each st of the round.
Rnd 2: Dc in each st to 1st underarm, dc2tog twice, dc in each st to 2nd underarm, dc2tog twice, dc in each st to end of round.
Rep Rnd 1 of Bodice until sweater falls just above your hip (or reaches the length you’d like before the ribbing. If you wish, you can change to a smaller hook size just after the sweater falls below the bust to add some shaping.)
Ribbing
Rnd 1: *FPdc in the first st, BPdc in next st, * rep from * to * around to create ribbing. Do not join.
Rnd 2: Rep Rnd 1 of Ribbing, working FPdc around FPdc sts and BPdc around BPdc sts until you have 2 inches of ribbing (or the length you desire).
Fasten off.
Sleeve Edging
With smaller hook, join yarn at 1st underarm and work 3 rounds of FPdc/BPdc ribbing around cap sleeve. Sl st in next st. Fasten off. Repeat for 2nd sleeve. (Note: if you’d like longer sleeves, you can work plain dc rows before beginning the ribbing.)
Neck Edging
With smaller hook and RS facing, join yarn at the center back of the neck opening, work 1 round of sc around neck opening, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.
Weave in all ends.
Ice-Blue Ribbon
Author
by Annette Petavy
Introduction
Last year, as usual, I had my annual break-down in the local Phildar store during the summer sale. Among other things, I brought home large amounts of the ribbon yarn Rivage, which was discontinued.
So – what to do with it? I swatched and I swatched. Ribbon yarn behaves differently compared to other yarns. It is flat and, as it turns around in the crocheted stitches, it creates unique effects.
It is very difficult to make a nice crocheted fabric in ribbon yarn that ends up neither stiff nor see-through. Therefore, I decided to combine knit and crochet in my garment. The body, where I sincerely believe I need some coverage, if only to spare the people around me, is knitted. The sleeves, where a little peek-a-boo won’t scare anyone off, are crocheted. To give the garment better unity, I added a crocheted bottom border to the body.
The crocheted parts of this summer pull-over are in simple half-double crochet in the frontloop only. In ribbon yarn, this technique creates an unexpectedly lacey effect. The knitting is all stockinette stitch.
Materials List
- Yarn: Ribbon yarn working up at the gauge specified below. I used Phildar’s Rivage (50% viscose/50% polyamide, 103m/112yds per 50g/1.75 oz ball). As indicated above, this yarn is discontinued. Googling efforts have lead me to believe that Crystal Palace Yarn’s Mikado Ribbon might work well as a substitute. Yardage: approximately 1100 (1200, 1500) m [1200 (1300, 1650) yds].
- Please note that the pattern will work with a more traditional yarn, as long as the gauge is the same. The resulting fabric will look different, though, and this difference will be most noticeable in the crocheted parts. Swatch and see if you like it!
- Crochet hook: 6mm (US J-10)
- Knitting needles: 6mm (US 10)
- Tapestry needle to weave in ends and seam pieces together
- Smooth, thin yarn in matching colour for seaming – I used a light blue crochet thread #5.
Finished Size
S (M, L).
Finished bust size: 89 (100, 115) cm / 35 (39, 45) in.
Gauge
Crochet: Hdc in front-loop only – 14.5 stitches and 10.5 rows = 10 cms [4”]
Knitting: Stockinette stitch (st st) – 19 stitches and 24 rows = 10 cms [4”]
Notes
All hdc stitches are worked in the front loop only (flo).
Special knitting stitches:
st st: Stockinette stitch. Knit right side rows; purl wrong side rows.
DVD: double vertical decrease: Put the right needle into the next two stitches as if to knit them together,and slip them to the right needle. Knit the next stitch on the left needle. Using the left needle, pass the two slipped stitches over the knitted stitch.
M1R: With the left needle, lift the strand between the needles, inserting the needle from back to front. Knit the lifted loop through the front (the stitch will be twisted to avoid a hole).
M1L: With the left needle, lift the strand between the needles, inserting the needle from front to back. Knit the lifted loop through the back (the stitch will be twisted to avoid a hole).
Single decreases:
Left-slanting (used at the beginning of a row):
K2togtbl: knit two together through the back loop.
Right-slanting (used at the end of a row):
K2tog: knit two together.
The Pattern
Pattern
Back
With knit
Baby It's Cold Outside
Author
by Julie Holetz
Introduction
A couple of years ago, I made this beautiful “one piece” knit baby sweater using a pattern from some magazine from the 70’s. It started from the back and continued in one piece over the shoulders, picking up one side to finish. It was easy enough but it took me 6 weeks to complete, because I just wasn’t that good at knitting. I thought how nice it would be to have a similar pattern in crochet. So, I adapted it, and voila, here it is. The nicest thing about it is that, with the chunky yarn, it only takes about 3 hours to make. There are two options for sweater bands below.
Materials List
- 1 skein, Lionbrand Homespun Yarn (Bulky/6 oz/185 yards). Note: for 12 months you will need a little more than one skein.
- 1-2 ozs worsted weight yarn in contrast color for edging and buttons.
- Size K (6.5mm) hook for sweater
- 2 buttons
-
Size H (5.0mm) hook for optional crocheted buttons
-
Yarn needle for weaving in ends
Finished Size
6 mos (12 mos)
Length 10” (11”)
Chest 20” (23”)
Sleeve 6.5” (7.5”)
Gauge
10 hdc and 8 rows = 4”/10cm
Notes
Samples used:
Blue: LB Homespun Montana Sky with TLC Lustre Lt Blue
Pink: LB Homespun Boston Rose with TLC Lustre Black
Coral: LB Homespun Coral Gables with Bernat Satin Pink
Green: LB Homespun Florida Keys Green with GGH Samoa Fuchsia
US Pattern Notations Used
Ch = chain
St = stitch
Sc = single crochet
Hdc = half double crochet
Sl st = slip stitch
Sc2tog = single crochet two together
Sweater is made in one piece starting at the bottom of the back side. The turning chain counts as the first hdc of a row, and the next hdc is made into the next stitch.
The Pattern
Begin
Ch 26 (29)
Row 1: Hdc into 3 rd Ch. Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. – 25 (28) Hdc
Rows 2-9: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows before moving on to next row.
Row 10: Hdc across. Fasten off.
Row 11: Add sleeves: Ch 15(17). With right side facing, Hdc into 1 st st, where you fastened off (leaving chain hanging off the hook, wrap the yarn over the hook, insert into first st and complete Hdc). Hdc across. Ch 16(18), turn.
Row 12: Hdc into 3 rd ch and Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. – 55(62) Hdc.
Rows 13-19: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows before moving on to next row.
Row 20: Hdc for 22(24) sts. Sl st in next 11(14) sts. Hdc in last 22(24) sts. Ch 2, turn.
Rows 21-22: Hdc across 22(24) sts. Ch 2, turn.
Row 23: Hdc across. Ch 12(14), turn.
Row 24: Hdc into 3 rd ch. Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. – 33(37) Hdc.
Rows 25-27: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows before moving on to next row.
Row 28: Hdc into first 18(20) sts. Ch 2, turn. – 18 (20)Hdc
Rows 29-38: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows hdc before fastening off.
Fasten off.
Pick up for the left sleeve.
Row 1: With front of sweater facing you, begin at the outside edge. Insert hook into first st and Ch 2. Hdc in next 21(23) sts. – 22(24) Hdc.
Row 2: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn.
Row 3: Hdc across. Ch 6(8) and turn.
Row 4: Hdc into 3 rd ch and Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. – 27 (31)Hdc.
Rows 5-7: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows before 
moving on to next row.
Row 8: Hdc in first 12(14) sts. Ch 2, turn. – 12(14) Hdc
Rows 9-18: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows hdc before fastening off.
Fasten off.
To finish.
Option 1, as shown in Florida Keys Green with fuchsia band (shown left):
With contrast color and with the right side facing you, loosely sc along left placket. Place 3 sc in corner at the beginning of the neckline. Sc around neckline. Place 3 sc in top corner of right placket and sc down the right side. Ch 1, turn. Sc back around, placing 3 sc in the right corner, until you reach the top of the left placket. Place 3 sc in left corner and sc in next st. To make long buttonhole, ch 8 and join with sc to same st. Sc in next 3 sts, ch 8 and join with sc to same st. Sc to end. Fasten off. Add two rows of loose sc in contrast color to short end of both sleeves. Fold sweater along shoulder with right sides facing each other. Connect seams with either whipstitch or slip stitch, along both sides of body and under sleeves. Turn right side out. Place buttons, using buttonholes as a guide, and sew to right side.
Option 2, as shown in Coral Gables with pink band (shown right):
With contrast color and with the right side facing you, loosely sc along left placket. Place 3 sc in corner at the beginning of the neckline. Sc around neckline. Place 3 sc in top corner of right placket and sc down the right side. Ch 1, turn. Sc back around, placing 3 sc in the right corner, until you reach the top of the left placket. Place 3 sc in left corner and sc in next st. To make buttonhole, ch 3, skip two sts and sc in next. Sc in next, ch3, skip two sts, and sc in next. Sc to end. Ch 1 and sc around bottom edge of sweater for two rows. Fasten off. Add two rows of sc in contrast color to short end of both sleeves. Fold sweater along shoulder with right sides facing each other. Connect seams with either whipstitch or slip stitch, along both sides of body and under sleeves. Turn right side out. Place buttons, using buttonholes as a guide, and sew to right side.
To make optional crocheted buttons. With contrast color and smaller hook, chain 4 and join to first ch. Six sc in center and join to first sc. Ch 1, *sc in next two sts, 2 sc in next* repeat to end of round and join. Ch 1, sc2tog around and join. Leaving a long tail for sewing button on, fasten off.
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