It took me 3 nights of Tunisian crochet but it was worth it.
It's a combination of 3 different Tunisian Crochet stitches (a 3 row pattern stitch), and let me add that it's very easy to follow.
The variegated yarn and the texture completes the look. The big hook makes this wrap works up fast.

YARN:
Shown in Joann’s Sensations Angel Hair [wool 22%, acrylic 50%, nylon 28%] 120 yd/110m per 3 ½ oz/100gr: Color #110 Blue/taupe stripes: 3 skeins

HOOKS:
Tunisian crochet hook size N-15/10 mm
Crochet hook size M-13/9 mm or any size to obtain correct gauge
Tapestry needle

one size
Finish length: 57”/148.8cm
Finish width: approx 12”/30.5cm

11 sts/10 rows of Tunisian Simple Stitch - TSS= approx 4"x4"/10cmx10cm

Special Stitches

Tunisian Simple Stitch - TSS: Forward: Insert hook in st indicated (second ch from hook or next vertical bar), yo, pull up lp.
Reverse: yo, pull through first lp on hook; * [yo, pull through 2 lps] repeat from * all sts across until remain with 1 lp on hook.

Tunisian Double Twisted Stitch - TDTS: Forward: yo, insert hook in indicated vertical bar from left to right, pull up lp, yo, pull through 2 lps.
Reverse: same as TSS.

Tunisian Double Stitch - TDS: Forward: yo, insert hook in indicated vertical bar from right to left, pull up lp, yo, pull through 2 lps.
Reverse: same as TSS

Tunisian Extended Stitch - TES: Forward: insert hook in indicated vertical bar, pull up lp, ch 1.
Reverse: same as TSS

Bind off - BO: Forward: * [Insert hook in next vertical bar and upper horizontal bar, pull up lp through lp on hook], repeat from * all sts across remaining last st. Insert hook in last vertical bar, pull up lp through lp on hook.

BODY
With Tunisian crochet hook, ch 28.
Row 1: Work TSS in second ch from hook and in all ch across.
Row 2: Ch 1 (only in first st), work TDTS in second st and all across until remain 1 st, 1TDS in last st.
Row 3: Ch 1 (only in first st), work TDS in second st and all sts across.
Row 4: Ch 1 (only in first st), work TES in second st and all sts across.

Work row 2, 3 and 4 in that order until obtain 72 rows.
Row 73: BO, remaining with last st on hook.

TRIM
Switch to crochet hook,
Row A: [ch 3, sk 2 sts, sc in next st] 9 times.
Row B: Ch3, sc in ch space of row bellow, [ch 5, sc in ch space of row bellow] 8 times, ch 3, sl st in last st. Fasten off. Weave in end.
Repeat rows A-B in the other short side of work. Fasten off. Weave in end.

Copyright © 2008 by AG mode
Pattern is granted for your own personal use only, And not to be used for commercial/retail purposes. Please, do not share, trade, sell, or distribute this file. I appreciate and thank you for complying with these terms.

This fits wonderfully on most body types. The sleeves are open worked to create a fluttery effect.

Note: For useful diagrams please go to:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/28478581@N07/2657602480/

-- Bernat Cool Crochet (sport) weight cotton/nylon yarn (1.75 oz/200 yds/50g per skein):
--14 skeins #74040 ebony
--Size F5—3.75mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge
--Tapestry Needle

Fits most adult sizes

Sleeves: 18 inches wide, 12 inches in length
Body: 44 inches wide (12 inches per front panel, 20 inches per back panel), 24 inches in length (16 inches for upper body, 8 inches for lower body)

Gauge
Pattern Rows—-1 Inch
10 sc--4 Inches; 10 rows--3 Inches

Note: For custom fitting on smaller sizes, subtract 8 ch from right and left panels and 16 for the back panel. For larger sizes, add 8 ch for right and left panels and 16 for the back panel.

Special Stitches
Puff Stitch--yo, *insert hook into st, yo, draw up loop,* 3 times (7 loops on hook), yo draw through all loops on hook, close by making a ch.
Shell Stitch--5 dc in st

Pattern Notes
Pattern Row--Upper Body:
Row 1 Ch 1, sc in same stitch, *dc in next st, sc in next st*, rep from * to * ending with a sc, turn.

Pattern Rows--Lower Body:
Row 1 Ch 5, sc in top of 3rd dc [skip 2 dc, sc in top of next dc, skip 2 dc], *ch 2, dc in sc, ch 2, sc in top of 3rd dc* rep from * to * turn.
Row 2 Ch 1 sc in same st, *ch 1, puff st in sc, ch 1, sc in dc* rep from * to * ending with sc in top of ch 3 from ch 5, turn.
Row 3 Rep Row 1 with sc in top of puff st.
Row 4 Ch 1 sc in same st *shell in sc, sc in dc* rep from * to * turn.

Upper Body
Right Panel
Row 1 Ch 76, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea ch across, turn
Row 2 Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in ea sc across, turn
Row 3 Ch 1, sc in same st, *dc in next st, sc in next st*, rep from * to * ending with sc in last st, turn
Row 4 Rep row 3
Row 5 Dec over 2 st with sc, pat st to end
Row 6--33 Rep last 2 Rows

Armhole Shaping
Row 34 Sl st across 6 st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, cont in pat across
Row 35 Dec over 2 st, cont in pat to last 2 st, turn leaving last 2 st unworked
Row 36 Continue in pat across, turn
Row 37--51 Rep last 2 rows.
Row 52--57 Rep rows 4 and 5.
Row 58--82 Continue with Row 4. At the end of row 82, fasten off.

Left Panel
Work as for Right Panel, Reversing Instructions

Back Top Panel
Row 1 Ch 121, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea sc across, turn
Row 2 Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in ea sc across, turn
Row 3--34 Rep last row

Armhole Shaping
Row 35 sl st across 6 st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in same st, cont in pat across to last 7 rem st, sc in st, turn leaving 6 st unworked, turn
Row 36 Pat across
Row 37 sl st in first 2 sc, ch 1, sc in next sc, pat across to last 3 st, sc in next st, turn leaving 2 st unworked
Row 38--53 Rep last 2 rows
Row 54--77 Rep pat row
Row 78--82 Ch 1 sc in same st, sc in next 22 st, turn, rep for 5 rows, fasten off.
Join yarn to opposite side, ch 1, pat across 23 st in (place marker 23 st from other end) and rep rows 78--82.

Sleeves
Sew side and top seams for right/left panels to back panel.
Row 1 Join yarn to first point, Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 5, sc in next point (after each point is done, skip 3 st and cont in pattern so that there is 33 ch-5 sp(s) total around to last point on back panel), turn.
Note: DO NOT go all the way around.
Row 2 Ch 1 sc in same st, *5 dc in ch5 sp, sc in sc* rep from * to *, turn.
Row 3 Ch 5, sc in top of 3rd dc [skip 2 dc, sc in top of next dc, skip 2 dc], *ch 2, dc in sc, ch 2, sc in top of 3rd dc* rep from * to * turn.
Row 4 Ch 1 sc in same st, *ch 1, puff st in sc, ch 1, sc in dc* rep from * to * ending with sc in top of ch 3 from ch 5, turn.
Row 5 Rep Row 3 with sc in top of puff st.
Row 6 Ch 1 sc in same st *shell in sc, sc in dc* rep from * to * turn.
Row 7 Rep row 3.
Row 8--38 Rep Rows 4-7 (or continue to desired length). Fasten off

Lower Body
Row 1 (foundation row): With WS facing, join yarn to bottom edge of right panel (working across to end of left panel), ch 1 sc in 1st st, *ch5, skip 3st, sc in next st*, rep from * to * ending with sc in last st, turn.
Row 2--7 Rep Rows 2—7 as for Sleeves.
Rows 8--38 Rep rows 4-7 as for Sleeves (or continue to desired length). Fasten off.

Inner Collar Edging:
Join yarn to bottom of right panel, ch 1 sc in ea st and 3 sc per 3 ch sp around to bottom of left panel, turn. Rep with another row of sc.

Belt
Row 1 Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea ch across, turn.
Row 2 Ch 1, sc in ea sc across, turn.
Row 3--5 Rep last row 3 more times.
Row 6 Ch 3, dc in next st, dc in ea st across, turn.
Rep last row until piece measures 70 inches (or desired length).
Rep Row 2 for 5 more rows (5 sc rows). Fasten Off.

Finishing
Weave in belt through back only foundation row ch-5 sp(s).
Option: Weave ribbon in through ch-5 sp(s) of lower body (row 1) or attach a button at desired location and using the naturally formed ch-5 sp(s) as button holes.
Weave in ends using a tapestry needle.

This wrap was created specifically with breastfeeding mothers in mind. Created with 100% silk chenille, it is both airy and beautiful. The wider edges of the wrap provide enough coverage to give babies privacy while eating in public, and make the wrap easy and comfortable for moms to wear. It's surprisingly warm and would make a lovely shoulder wrap for mothers-to-be for those windy spring days.

I purchased the yarn for this wrap from Ebay originally, but any sport weight chenille yarn would do. The wrap was kool-aid dyed with blue and cherry after it was finished. I used a hook larger than recommended to create the lacy look.

• Approximately 16oz. of sport weight chenille yarn.
• 7mm hook (Size K hook is slightly smaller but should be acceptable)

It is assumed that each row begins with either a chain 1 for sc rows, ch 2 for hdc rows and ch 3 for dc rows. Personally I reduce the number to 1 chain for sc and hdc rows and 2 ch for dc rows. For my work, it keeps the edges neater and doesn't leave a large gap between the beginning stitch and rest of the work.

US pattern notations used
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
st = stitch

I’ve wanted to make snowflake-inspired crochet forever. When I met with Rowan’s “Soft Baby” in my local yarn shop, I knew that the season had finally arrived. Thanks to the various ‘circle shrug’ patterns that have been published in print and discussed online, I had a vision that a snowflake could be worn in similar fashion.  I was pleasantly surprised by the variety of styles that can be created by a simple circle. By poking your arms through the various holes, this cuddly snowflake can be worn as a capelet, scarf, wrap, or shrug.  You might find other ways too…

This project is pretty easy and only takes a few hours so it makes a wonderful quick winter gift. You can, of course, dress it up or make a homespun version depending on your yarn and closure choices.

• 3 balls of Rowan “Soft Baby” (150m per 50g) in Cloud. Another soft worsted weight yarn will work too.  
• 5.5mm (size I/9) hook
• brooch, clasp, or pin for a closure

This will fit a person with about a 16in (40cm) measurement across the upper back. For bigger or smaller sizes, substitute yarn weights and hook sizes until your first three rounds equal about 1/3 of your upper back measurement. The finished snowflake is pretty stretchy and can be worn multiple ways, so don’t worry too much!

First three rounds measure 5in (11cm) in diameter.

Special stitches:

Picot: ch 3, sl st into 3rd ch from hook.

Picot cluster:  ch 3, sl st into 3rd ch from hook (first picot made), ch 4, sl st into base ch of first picot, ch 3, sl st into base ch of first picot.

The Pattern&nbs