Baby booties are what I always make up for friends and family who are soon to have a little baby come into their lives. However, when I was pregnant I didn't get around to making any booties for my own little boy and by the time that I had a few minutes spare to do a little crochet for him he was already 7 months old!

So I designed these little booties for him - keeping it simple so that they would suit a little boy (though if made up in another colour they would probably look just as sweet on a little girl) and after a few failed bootie attempts I think I have come up with a pattern that is simple to make up and a good sturdy shape for little baby feet.

DK wool
3.5mm crochet hook
Darning needle (to work in loose ends)
2 matching buttons

My finished booties measure 10cm long by 4.5cm wide. Not too sure what age I would recommend these booties for - they are bigger than newborn size, possibly best fit for around 6 months old but remember that every baby is different so make them early and wait until they grow into them.

I will need to add this later...

This pattern uses American crochet terms. The following abbreviations used are:

ch - chain
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
sl st - slip stitch
tog - together (decreasing)

At the end of each row sl st to the first sc worked in the previous row

Left bootie

Row 1: ch 15, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 13 sc, 4 sc in first back loop, 12 sc, 2 sc in last back loop. (32 sc)

Row 2: ch 1, 12 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, 14 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc. (38 sc)

Row 3: ch 1, 12 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc* x 4, 14 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc. (44 sc)

Row 4: ch 1, 12 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc* x 4, 13 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 3 sc. (50 sc)

Row 5: ch 1, sc around (50 sc)

Row 6: ch 1, sc around in back loops only (50 sc)

Row 7&8: ch 1, sc around (50 sc)

Row 9: ch 1, 8 sc, *2 dc tog, 2 dc* x 4, sc around (46 sc)

Row 10: ch 1, 7 sc, *2 dc tog, 1 dc* x 4, sc around (42 sc)

Row 11: ch 1, 6 sc, 2 dc tog in next 4 dc, sc around (38 sc)

Row 12: 16 sl st, *ch 1 turn, 3 sc* x 11, ch 4, sl st into 3rd sc, sl st down edge of strap and continue to sl st to start of row.

Finish off.

Right bootie

Work Rows 1 to 11 as for Left bootie.

Row 12: ch 1, 2 sc, ch 1 turn, 2 sc, 1 sc into first ch *ch 1 turn, 3 sc* x 10, ch 4, sl st into 3rd sc, sl st down edge of strap and continue to sl st all the way round to start of row.

Finish off.

Girly girls just love this purse!
I designed this simple purse to teach crochet at a local arts and crafts store. It helps you practice different stitches, how to change colors and joining. It also teaches the “corner stone” of crochet….. The granny square!

You only use small amounts of yarn so it’s a great stash buster!

Size H (5mm) hook
2 colors Caron Simply Soft yarn
yarn needle
optional: fabric for lining the purse

6 inches square not counting the strap

not overly important for this project

dc = double crochet
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
hdc = half double crochet
sc = single crochet
ch 3 counts at 1st dc
ch 2 counts as 1st hdc
st(s) = stitch (es)
YO = yarn over.

Granny Square
Make 2
with color one
ch 4 join to make a circle.
Rd 1
ch 3 15 dc in ring (16 dc total) join to top of ch 3
Rd 2
ch 3 (dc ch 1 2 dc) in same stitch. 1 dc each in next 3 stitches. *( 2 dc ch 1
2dc) in next stitch, 1 dc each in next 3 stitches* repeat from * to * around. Sl
st to join in top of ch 3 Sl st to corner
Rd 3
join new color #2 ch 3 (dc ch 1 2 dc) in corner space, 1 dc each in next 6 sts
*(2 dc ch 1 2 dc) in corner space, 1 dc each in next 6 sts* repeat from * to *
around . Sl st to join in top of ch 3 Sl st to corner
Rd 4
ch 2 (hdc ch 1 2 hdc) in corner space, 1 hdc each in next 9 sts. *(2 hdc ch 1
2hdc) in corner space, 1 hdc in each of the next 9 sts*. repeat from * to *
around. Sl st to join in top of ch 2 Sl st to corner.
Rd 5
join color #1 ch 2 (hdc ch 1 2 hdc) in corner space, **working in back
loops only**
1 hdc in each of the next 12 sts. *(2 hdc ch 1 2 hdc) in corner space. **in
back loops only** 1 hdc in each of the next 12 sts* repeat from * to *
around. Sl st to join in top of ch 2 Sl st to corner.
Rd 6
join color #2 ch 3 (dc ch 1 2 dc) in corner space, ** working in back loops
only** , 1 dc in each of the next 15 sts. * (2 dc ch 1 2 dc) in next corner
space, **back loops** 1 dc in each of the next 15 sts* repeat from * to *
around. Sl st to join in top of ch 3 Sl st to corner.
Rd 7
Change to color #1 ch 1 4 sc in corner space (5 total) 1 sc in each of the
next 18 sts. * 5 sc in corner space, 1 sc in each of the next 18 sts*. repeat
from * to * around. Sl st to join in top of ch 1 finish off.

Finishing and Handle
Hold 2 squares wrong sides together join by sc: Take your hook through the first st like you would to sc normally, then put your hook through the same st on the 2nd square. YO pull your yarn through both sts and complete the single crochet. 3 sc in each corner. Leave one side open. When you get to the top of the 3rd side, ch 80. Join to top of other side of bag with a sl st. Sc across top of one side of the bag and then up around the 80 ch strap. (you may want to do 2 or 3 sc in the join between the top of the bag and the strap). When you get to the other side, sc across the other side of the opening and up the “bump” or bottom side of the ch 80 . This is going to be the handle. Join to top of bag and finish off. Sew in ends. Line bag if you so want.

These quick and easy balloons are great for anyone new to amigurumi.

Worsted weight yarn in color of your choice
Size U.S. E4 crochet hook
Yarn needle
Stuffing
Safety eyes and nose (or embroider your own)
Swizzle sticks or wooden skewers for balloon "string"

Large balloon is approx. 3" tall
Small balloon is approx. 2" tall.

Not necessary, just make sure your stitches are firm and even.

Large Balloon:

It's time to add as much fuel as possible to the CROCHET REVOLUTION! Show your pride and solidarity by wearing your very own revolutionary armband. In true DIY style, stitch one up however you'd like. Not a fan of colourwork? Ditch it. Never tried it before? Give it a shot! And don't even think of showing up to a Crochet Me book event without one. (Just think of all the blog photos of armband-clad crocheters! Pretty revolutionary!)

• Yarn: Tahki Dream (80% wool, 20% nylon; 262 yds/242 m per 1.75 oz/50 g): #008 Emerald Green (MC), 1 ball; #001 White (CC1), 1 ball, #012 Fuschia (CC2), 1 ball. Yarn distributed by Tahki Stacy Charles.
• Hook: 3.5mm. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
• Yarn needle

Customizable. The armband shown is about 4" wide when laid flat and about 2.5" long.

The pattern is written in one size; for a larger or smaller version, add or subtract an even number of stitches when you begin. The skull is worked over the center 14 stitches regardless of how large or small you make the armband.

Approximately 6 sts and 7 rows = 1" in sc

Although any fingering-or-lighter weight yarn or thread can be substituted, the high wool content in the recommended yarn gives the armband a lovely amount of stretch. Using a 100% cotton yarn or thread might not produce an armband that will actually stay put on your arm.

There are two ways to begin the pattern. Option A, involving foundation stitches (see the Spring 2007 Interweave Crochet), is preferred, since it results in a stretchier foundation row than a traditional foundation chain.

Armband is worked in the round, turning after each round. Turning prevents the skull design from becoming terribly skewed.

Be sure to carry the unused yarn on the WS of your work.

[Big thanks to Elin for modeling all over Vancouver with me for this project.]

Option A:
Foundation Rnd: With MC, work 50 fsc, sl st in first fsc to join, being careful not to twist the sts, turn.