Shrugs don't get any easier than this: it's a simple rectangle and there's NO seamin', NO sizin', NO shapin'. It's also probably the only 1-skein shrug out there, but if you want to use 2 skeins, you can add an edging or make the sleeves longer or make it plus-sized. It works because the yarn is so stretchy, so it does the shaping and sizing for you. There's no seaming because you lace up the sleeves with ribbon. Remove the ribbon and it becomes a scarf/neckwarmer. As an added bonus, the stitch pattern is eye-catching, so this handy shrug will even turn heads. Now, if it would only balance your checkbook...

• Patons Katrina yarn (163yds/150m per 100g/3.5oz.), "Dusk," 1 (2) skeins
• Pattern instructions will include tips for using alternate yarns. (Ed. note: I'm told by Patons that Katrina will be discontinued, but should still be available for purchase at press time.)
• Some stretchy substitutes to experiment with, of roughly similar weight, are:
• Classic Elite's Star, 2+ balls (cotton and lycra)
• Cascade Fixation, 2+ balls (cotton and elastic)
• Sock it to Me Collection's Esprit, 2+ balls (seems similar to Cascade's Fixation; available at www.elann.com)
• Schoeller Stahl's Merino Stretch, 1 ball (44% Merino)
• Schachenmayr Only Stretch, 2 balls (40% superwash wool)
• Size US8-H / 5.0mm crochet hook
• 2 lengths of 1.5-inch-wide ribbon, each 1.5 yds long
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Small (Large)

5" X 33", unstretched (6.5" x 43", approximately)

The goal is to end up with a rectangle that measures 5" X 33" unstretched (for small size) because that's what I got out of 1 skein of Katrina. The width (# of stitches across) could be up to 5.5" and still fit average upper arms the same; or 6" to 6.5" for plus-sized upper arms. The length (total # of rows) could go as low as about 30" for comfortably short sleeves, up to maybe 60" for long sleeves, depending on how long your arms are.

Gauge is not a big deal. Here's the gauge I got: 4 pattern repeats, plus the stitches that begin and end each row = 5". Four rows = 3.5".

Just follow the pattern, because the shrug is like one long gauge swatch anyway. If you are experimenting with one of the cotton yarns listed above, you'll probably need to go down a hook size and and do 5 pattern repeats instead of 4.

Ch(s) – chain
Sc – single crochet
Sl st – slip stitch

Picot - ch 4 then sl st in the 4th ch from hook

Instant Perfect-fit Shrug

I’ve dreamed of this bag for a couple of years. Every once in a while I would pick up some yarn and give it a try, but it just wouldn’t come out right. Then, one very gray, very rainy Seattle morning I picked up a chunky, bright fuchsia yarn and started again. As I dreamed of spring and all that’s blooming the bag made itself.

This bag is pretty versatile in design. If you want a slightly less blooming bag, then fasten off your petals after only a couple of rows. If you want fewer layers of petals, just fasten off and pick up the yarn after a round or two and start the petals again. It can be made into a larger bag or a smaller one like a coin purse. You can even do petals on both sides of the bag for an exploding blooms bag, just work the back of the bag as you do for the front. A lining can be added, but since I’m slightly intimidated by sewing I like the option of not having to line. So using the chunky/bulky yarn and medium sized hook makes it sturdy enough to keep from stretching.

• About 165 yards chunky or bulky weight yarn. (Sample used Bernat Softee Chunky (68 yards/1.34 oz/50g) in Hot Fuschia.)
• Size J/6mm hook (if you want a sturdier or bulkier bag try a smaller hook)
• Stitch marker
• Yarn needle for weaving ends
• Two acrylic ring handles

There is really no gauge as the bag can be done in any size. Using a smaller hook would make the bag smaller and more sturdy; using a larger hook or a worsted weight yarn would give it more drape, and you would probably need to have a lining added to counter any stretching.

Back of bag is done in both loops.

The entire body of the bag is made as a spiral, so you will not join to the beginning of the round. Your first stitch will always be where the marker is. You will need to place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round. You will always end each round with 2 hdc in the last stitch. When doing a two-color bag, work the back loop only rounds in the color of the flower and work the remaining rounds and back in the second color.

US pattern notations used
Ch = chain
St = stitch
Sl st = slip stitch
Sc = single crochet
Hdc = half double crochet