I've always had a thing for fingerless gloves and wrist warmers. When I was a little kid, I always wanted to cut the fingertips off my gloves so I could be like Bob Cratchit from Dickens's A Christmas Carol, but my mom wouldn't let me. Years later, I cut the fingertips off the first pair of gloves I bought in college. I've seen a lot of knitting patterns for wrist warmers, but I haven't seen many crocheted wrist warmers so I thought I'd make these!

Although this pattern is done in Artesano Alpaca, it is easily adaptable to other yarns and is a great way to use up scrap yarns and one-skein impulse purchases.

• MC:  1 skein Inca Cloud Artesano Alpaca (100% Alpaca, 131 yds/120m per 50g skein): color #002 (brown), or approximately 131 yards/120m of any DK weight alpaca
•  CC1 and CC2:  1/2 skein each of Inca Cloud Artesano Alpaca (100% Alpaca, 131 yds/120m per 50g skein): color #402 (olive green) and color #71 (burnt orange) or approximately 131 yards/120m of any DK weight alpaca or scrap yarn
• US F/5 (3.75 mm) hook
• Yarn needle

Wee Wristies: (will fit children and people with small hands, like me)
Normal Wristies: (will fit average-sized wrists)
Big Wristies: (for big people)

The pattern is written for Wee Wristies with changes for Normal Wristies and Big Wristies written in parentheses.

19 sts x 24 rounds of sc = 4" (10 cm)

Fpdc = front post double crochet

The Wrist-bit

With MC, ch 26 (30, 34), sl st in first ch to form ring.  

Round 1.  Ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc in each st around, sl st in 2nd ch of ch-2 to close ring. (26 [30, 34] dc)

Round 2.  Ch 1 (counts as first sc), *fpdc around next dc of previous row, sc in next st,*  rep from * to * around, ending fpdc around last dc of previous row,  sl st in first ch to close ring.  

Round 3. With CC1, ch 1 (counts as first sc), *fpdc around post of next fpdc, sc in next st,*  rep from * to * around, ending fpdc around post of next fpdc,  sl st in first ch to close ring.

Round 4.  Repeat Round 3 in MC.  

Round 5.  Repeat Round 3 in CC2.  

Round 6.  Repeat Round 3 in CC1.  

Round 7.  Repeat Round 3 in CC2.  

Round 8.  Repeat Round 3 in MC.  

Round 9.  Repeat Round 3 in CC1.  

Rounds 10-11.  Repeat Round 3 in MC.  

The Thumb-Hole-bit

This section is worked flat instead of in the round.  

Row 1.  Ch 1 (counts as sc), turn, sc in each st to end.  Do not join in first ch.  

Repeat Row 1 until work measures 2.5" (3", 3") or desired length.  

Top O' the Mitt

Round 1: Sl st in first ch of row to join, ch 1, sc in each st around.

Repeat Round 1 for 4 (5, 6) more rounds, ending with sc in first ch, sl st in following stitch.  Fasten off.  

Finishing

Using yarn  needle, weave in all ends.

One of my favorite things about December is pulling out all of the old Christmas movies I loved as a child. It’s tradition! Every year, among many others, our Christmas movie list included Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer. You remember -- the 1960s stop-motion version, complete with reindeer, Santa, an elf who wants to be a dentist (a dentist?), and my personal favorite, the abominable snowmonster.

These whimsical slippers are inspired by the abominable snowmonster, but sized for little feet, from baby to small child. They’re perfect for all the little monsters on your list!

• Caron Simply Soft, 3/4 (1, 1 ½) oz. Grey Heather, 1 (1 ½, 2 ¼) oz. Off-White (amounts given are amounts required for two slippers, or one pair.)
• 5.00mm (size H/8) hook
• Yarn needle

Small (newborn – 3 months), Medium (6 – 12 months), Large (18 – 24 months)

Finished Measurements (toe to heel of sole) – Small: 3 ½ in, Medium: 4 ½ in, Large: 5 ¼ in

4 sts x 4 rows in sc = 1”

Loops in sample are approximately 1” long.

Instructions are given for the smallest size, with larger sizes in parenthesis. If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes except where indicated.

Special Technique: Bouclé Loop Stitch

In this pattern, the bouclé loop stitch will be formed with the aid of no special equipment but your own fingers. The lengths of the loops can vary widely, requiring more or less yarn than specified, but it is important to make the size of your loops consistent throughout the piece.

To make the loop stitch, *Insert hook in next stitch and before catching it with the hook, loop yarn over your left index finger, then catch yarn with hook and draw a loop through the stitch, yarn over, draw through two loops, and slip your finger out of the loop.

Repeat from asterisk across the row.

Only a little practice will make you a loop-stitch pro! Also, see our in-depth loop stitch tutorial.

Pattern (make 2)

Sole

I have a scarf that’s about ten feet long. I adore it. I can wrap it around my neck twelve times and it still hangs down to my knees. I like to wear it under my jacket when I’m outside in the cold, but stuffing the ends in my coat makes me look like Quasimodo. I like to wear it inside over my sweater, but when I lean over the ends slip over my shoulders and drag on the floor, or I shut them in the car door and the ends get soaked. Solution: get rid of the ends. Duh. The result is a cowl that is lacy enough to be worn with a nice sweater indoors, but bulky enough to keep your neck warm outside in the middle of winter.

• Opal Sock Yarn (425 meters/100 grams) in winter white, 1 skein (or any sock or fingering weight yarn)
• 3.25mm (size D) hook

One size.

Gauge is unimportant in this pattern.

Picot: Ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook.

Note: Ooh, it’s two looks in one pattern!  To make one of those popular mobius cowls, twist your starting chain 180 degrees before you connect the ends together.  It makes it look a little more interesting – a cowl with a twist!

Let's Begin!