Every year since I learned to crochet, I've made at least one of these bags, and although I'm always promising myself it will be the last one I make, I end up giving it to one of my friends (usually my sister, who must have a huge collection by now) and crocheting another one the next time I'm about to go traveling.

There are two bags in this pattern, the shoulder sling and the passport bag. The shoulder sling is one of those toss-everything-in-and-rummage-for-it-later bags, while the passport bag is designed to hold, well, a passport, travel documents, postcards, writing utensils, and maybe something small, like a tube of lipstick or your keys.

For Shoulder Bag

• 420 m/460 yds of Patons 100% Cotton DK, or a similar yarn, such as Tivoli Cruise DK
• 3.75mm (US size F/5) hook
• 3.25mm (US D/3) hook for edging
• 12" x 24" material (to line the shoulder bag)
• Sewing needle
• Sewing thread

For Passport Bag

• DMC Cebelia Crochet Cotton, size 20 (370 m/405 yds per 50 g), 1 skein, black.  I know black isn't very summery, but I wanted to make a bag that would match my traveling clothes and since my traveling clothes consist of whatever I shoved into my bag at the last minute, black is a safe bet for me.  Feel free to use whatever colour is the safest bet for you. Any size 20 thread can be substituted.
• 1.50 mm (US size 8) steel hook or size needed to obtain gauge
• 280 – 450 seed beads (see Passport Bag instructions, below, for options)
• 5" x 14" material (to line the bag)
• cord for strap (optional)
• Sewing needle
• Sewing thread

Passport bag is 5" x 6.5"; shoulder bag is approximately 11" x 11" (will stretch if unlined). Strap length can be easily adjusted.

Shoulder Bag: 18 sts x 19 rows of sc = 4" x 4" (10cm x 10cm)

Passport Bag: 46 sts x 25 rows of dc = 4" x 4" (10cm x 10cm)

Shoulder Bag

This is a really simple pattern and can easily be adjusted to a different size, a different yarn, even a different stitch pattern. As long as you get the gist of how the bag works up, you should have no trouble making adjustments. For example, I made the bag in Debbie Bliss Cotton Denim Aran yarn and ended up with a 12" x 14" bag. The only bit of the pattern I had to adjust was the bottom - I decreased [sc2tog, sc 1] by 3 on each side instead of 5. I suggested cotton yarn for this bag because it does not stretch (the stitches themselves will give the bag a bit of stretch, however). If you do not want to make this bag using cotton, I would suggest lining the bag in a sturdy material and crocheting the finishing section in a cotton yarn. (I learned this the hard way a few years ago - the first shoulder bag I made was in a cotton/acrylic blend.  It stretched down to my knees and I was stuck carrying it around Seattle all afternoon!)

Body

Foundation Row:  Ch 100. Taking care not to twist chain, sl st in first ch to form ring.

Sc in the round, in a spiral, for a total of 50 rows or until work measures about 10". 

Bottom

[Instead of folding it in half and seaming it like a tote (and like the passport bag), this gives the bag a rounded oval-shaped bottom.]

Round 1.  *Sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next st,* rep from * to * 2 more times, sc in each of next 35 sts, rep from * to * 5 times, sc in each of next 35 sts, rep from * to * 2 times. (90 sts)

Round 2.  *Sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next st,* rep from * to * 2 more times, sc in each of next 30 sts, rep from * to * 5 times, sc in each of next 30 sts, rep from * to * 2 times. (80 sts)

Round 3.  *Sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next st,* rep from * to * 2 more times, sc in each of next 25 sts, rep from * to * 5 times, sc in each of next 25 sts, rep from * to * 2 times. (70 sts)

Round 4.  *Sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next st,* rep from * to * 2 more times, sc in each of next 20 sts, rep from * to * 5 times, sc in each of next 20 sts, rep from * to * 2 times. (60 sts)

Round 5.  *Sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next st,* rep from * to * 2 more times, sc in each of next 15 sts, rep from * to * 5 times, sc in each of next 15 sts, rep from * to * 2 times. (50 sts)

Seam: Turn inside out, seam bottom edges tog with sl st. I like the look of the blo sl st (where you sl st the inner loops tog), but use whatever you please. Fasten off, weave in ends. Turn right side out.

Strap

The strap is worked on the top of the bag, using the other side of the foundation chain.

Row 1. Lay bag flat to roughly gauge the “side edge”. Count 7 sts back from the left edge, attach yarn, ch 1, sc in same st as join and in each of the next 14 sts, ch 1, turn. (15 sts)

Row 2. Sc in each st across to last two sts, sc2tog over last 2 sts, ch 1, turn. (14 sts)

Rows 3-10: Repeat Row 2, ending Row 10 with 6 sts.

Row 11. Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (6 sts)

Repeat Row 11 112 more times (or more, if you prefer a longer strap). (Note: this strap will stretch a bit -- my finished strap measured 33" after wearing the bag around a few times.)

Row 12. Sc in each st across to last st, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn. (7 sts)

Rows 13-20. Repeat Row 12, ending Row 20 with 15 sts.

On opposite side of where the strap began, sl st edge to foundation chain leaving 35 foundation ch spaces between straps on both sides.

Note: there is no need to fasten off; begin finishing at this point.

Finishing

Sc into each of the 35 foundation ch sts between the strap ends. Using a smaller hook (this helps counter strap stretching), sc along edge of strap (working one sc for each row), sl st in 1st sc, fasten off, weave in ends.  Repeat for other side.

Passport Bag

This bag kills two birds with one stone as it's a good introduction to both thread crochet and crocheting with beads. If you've never done it before, crocheting with thread takes a little getting used to. My first attempts were a little wonky, but I got used to it with a little practice. This bag is done entirely in dc and believe me, after crocheting all 96 rows, you will have your tension and gauge down!

Bead crochet is easy -- to work the dcb stitch, start as you would a regular dc: yo, insert hook into stitch, yo, pull through, as you do the next yo, slip a bead onto the bit of thread that you're yarning-over (see Figure 1), and finish the stitch as you normally would (pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through 2 loops).

Figure 1

There are two ways to do make this bag, the hardcore bead way, where the entire bag is beaded, and the easy bead way, where only the front of the bag is beaded.  

Preparation: String 450 seed beads onto the thread for hardcore way or 280 beads for the easy way.

Body

Foundation: Ch 61, turn.

Row 1. Dc in fourth ch from hook, dc in each st across, turn. (59 sts)

Row 2. Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in each of next 4 sts, *dcb in next st, dc in each of next 5 sts,* repeat from * to * 8 more times, turn.

Row 3. Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in each st across, turn.

Row 4. Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in next st, *dcb in next st, dc in each of next 5 sts,* repeat from * to * 8 more times, dcb, dc in each of next 2 sts, turn.

Row 5. Repeat Row 3.

For hardcore:  Repeat rows (2-5) 24 times (for a total of 96 rows).

For easy: Repeat rows (2-5) 10 times, ending last repeat on Row 4 (for a total of 40 rows), repeat Row 3 for 45 rows, and repeat Rows (2-5) 3 times, ending last repeat on Row 4 (for a total of 12 rows).

Seaming

Fold at 42nd row from foundation chain, sc sides together, working 2 sc in each dc row, for 42 rows. The remaining material is the front flap. To finish the flap, sc along the sides, working 2 sc in each dc row. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Strap

The easiest way to put a strap on the bag is to sew a cord to the top corners of the bag. A more time-consuming way, however, is to crochet the strap:

Ch 5, turn.

Row 1. Sk 3 ch (counts as 1st dc), dc in each of next 2 sts, turn. (3 dc).

Row 2. Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in each of next 2 sts, turn.

Repeat Row 2 until strap is desired length. Note: unlike the shoulder bag, this strap should not stretch too much, as this is a much smaller bag and will not be carrying as heavy a load.)

Attach straps to top corners of the bag (wherever you like, I prefer to attach them on the foundation chain) with sc. Weave in ends.

Lining the bags

Lining the bags is easy if you know how to sew and easier still if you are armed with a sewing machine and know how to use it. Simply fold the lining material in half, sew up the sides, slip the lining into your bag, and sew the top of the lining to the top of the bag!

After a nice, relaxing summer and autumn, we are now heading towards winter. But winter garments and accessories do not need to come in boring and dull dark colours.

So with that in mind, I came up with the design for the Rose set, which includes a handbag, a headband and a matching rose to pin on your jacket. It all comes down to the accessories, right?

And since I’m also such a pink person, I couldn’t think of a better colour than pink for the set. This way you will certainly be seen.

The items in the Rose set are all felted, which makes the headband nice and warm, and it also gives the handbag sturdiness so it does not need to be lined.

The set is crocheted with bulky weight wool, so the items are fast projects to make.

• Cortina - Bulky weight wool (50g/55m or 1.8 oz/55yds): 4 skeins (3 skeins for the handbag & 1 skein for the headband)
• Size 7.0mm (K) hook
• Yarn needle

Before felting:

Handbag: 31.5 x 28 cm (12.4 x 11 in)

Headband: 10 x 50 cm ( 4 x 1.7 in) without tassels; tassel 32 cm (12.6 in).

After felting:

Handbag: 24.5 x 26 cm (9.6 x 10.2 in)

Headband: 8 x 47 cm (3.1 x 18.5 in); tassels 24 cm (9.5 ins)

Rose: 8 cm across (3.1 in)

Before felting: 10 dc x 6 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 in)

After felting: 13 dc x 6.5 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 in)

• The yarn needs to be 100% wool in order for the felting process to succeed.
• The items can be stretched and formed into correct shaping and sizes when wet.

Rose (make 5 alike)

Ch 4, sl st in first ch to create ring.

Round 1: *Ch 3, 1 sc.* Rep *-* 5 times –- 6 bows.

Round 2: Work in each bow: *1 sc, 3 dc, 1 sc*. Join to frst sc with a sl st. Cut thread, weave in ends. Attach to a pin, to be worn on a jacket.

Handbag

Front

Ch 32.

Row 1: Work 1 dc in the 4th ch from the hook and in each ch across – 30 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 2: Work dc in each st across. Ch 3, turn.

Row 3 - 12: Rep row 2.

Row 13: Work dc in each of first 2 sts, dc2tog, *dc in each of next 2 sts, dc2tog.* Rep *-* across, ending row with dc in each of last 2 sts –- 23 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Rows 14-16: Work dc in each st across. Ch 3, turn.

Row 17: Make opening for hand. Work dc in each of first 6 sts, ch 11 loosely, skip 11 sts before working dc in last 6 sts. Ch 3, turn.

Row 18: Work dc in each of first 6 sts, work 11 dc in ch-11 space, work dc in each of last 6 sts. Ch 3, turn.

Rows 19-21: Work dc in each st across. Ch 3, turn.

Cut thread, weave in ends.

Back

Work same as for front.

Assemble the handbag:

Sew sides and bottom of front and back pieces together, with their right sides facing each other. Turn right side out. Crochet 3 roses to be sewn on the front side. The roses can be sewn on both before and after the felting process. However, keep in mind that the roses will shrink, so the ‘placement’ of the roses may alter after the handbag has been felted if they are sewn on beforehand. I sewed on the rose after the felting on the handbag that is displayed in the picture.

Headband

Ch 43 to make a tassel.

Row 1: Work 2 dc in the 3rd ch from the hook – 3 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 2: Work 2 dc in the first st, dc in next st, 2 dc in the last st – 5 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 3: Work 2 dc in the first st, dc in each of next 3 sts, 2 dc in the last st – 7 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 4: Work 2 dc in the first st, dc in each of next 5 sts, 2 dc in the last st – 9 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 5: Work dc in each st across. Ch 3, turn.

Row 6: Work dc in each of first 4 sts, 2 dc in the next st, dc in each of last 4 sts – 10 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 7-25: Work dc in each st across. Ch 3, turn.

Row 26: Work dc in each of first 4 sts, dc2tog, dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 27: Ch 2. Work dc2tog, dc in each of next 5 sts across, dc2tog over last 2 sts – 7 dc.

Continue to dec 2 dc on each row (one at each end of the row) until there are only 3 dc left. Work 3 dc together. Ch 40 to make another tassel. Cut thread, weave in ends.

Felting

Put all items through a hot machine wash to shrink and felt.

Tapestry crochet is similar to regular crochet, except that more than one yarn is used at the same time to create a colorful fabric. Actually, one or more yarns are carried while another yarn is single crocheted. The finished pieces look woven instead of crocheted. Tapestry crochet has been popular for a long time in several countries. Mayan men in Guatemala tapestry crochet shoulder bags with cotton thread or wool yarn. In other parts of the world, tapestry crochet is used to make yarmulkes and hats.

This purse begins at the bottom, then spirals upwards to the strap. The horse is 22 stitches wide. It is possible to make a variety of purse sizes by increasing or decreasing the length of the foundation chain by eleven stitches. Feel free to substitute different colors or another motif -- just be sure that the total number of stitches on the sides of the purse is a multiple of the number of stitches in your motif.

• Size 3 Senso Wool Cotton thread by DMC (100 yds per 29g / 91m – 1.02 oz); four balls of Bone (1302), 3 balls of Brown (1309), and 1 ball of Maroon (1308); (www.dmc-usa.com)
• 2.75mm (size 1) steel crochet hook, or the size that will give an acceptable gauge
• 1 1/4” diameter decorative button
• Stitch counter or marker
• Needle

Without the strap: 10 1/2” wide by 9 1/2” high

9 stitches equals 1 inch; 8 rows equals 1 inch

All stitches are single crochet stitches unless otherwise indicated.

Begin

Round 1: Starting with the brown thread, make a slip knot (leaving a ten-inch tail), th

I’ve dreamed of this bag for a couple of years. Every once in a while I would pick up some yarn and give it a try, but it just wouldn’t come out right. Then, one very gray, very rainy Seattle morning I picked up a chunky, bright fuchsia yarn and started again. As I dreamed of spring and all that’s blooming the bag made itself.

This bag is pretty versatile in design. If you want a slightly less blooming bag, then fasten off your petals after only a couple of rows. If you want fewer layers of petals, just fasten off and pick up the yarn after a round or two and start the petals again. It can be made into a larger bag or a smaller one like a coin purse. You can even do petals on both sides of the bag for an exploding blooms bag, just work the back of the bag as you do for the front. A lining can be added, but since I’m slightly intimidated by sewing I like the option of not having to line. So using the chunky/bulky yarn and medium sized hook makes it sturdy enough to keep from stretching.

• About 165 yards chunky or bulky weight yarn. (Sample used Bernat Softee Chunky (68 yards/1.34 oz/50g) in Hot Fuschia.)
• Size J/6mm hook (if you want a sturdier or bulkier bag try a smaller hook)
• Stitch marker
• Yarn needle for weaving ends
• Two acrylic ring handles

There is really no gauge as the bag can be done in any size. Using a smaller hook would make the bag smaller and more sturdy; using a larger hook or a worsted weight yarn would give it more drape, and you would probably need to have a lining added to counter any stretching.

Back of bag is done in both loops.

The entire body of the bag is made as a spiral, so you will not join to the beginning of the round. Your first stitch will always be where the marker is. You will need to place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round. You will always end each round with 2 hdc in the last stitch. When doing a two-color bag, work the back loop only rounds in the color of the flower and work the remaining rounds and back in the second color.

US pattern notations used
Ch = chain
St = stitch
Sl st = slip stitch
Sc = single crochet
Hdc = half double crochet

This is the perfect bag to take with you on your winter vacation to that nice, warm destination you've been dreaming about. Or, let's face it, it's also just a great summer bag. It’s durable, roomy, and easy to clean – just toss it in the washing machine!

• 7oz. / 200g of plastic yarn in your choice of colors (I used Adriafil SUN yarn in color 172)
• Size F / 3.75mm crochet hook
• Plastic purse handle rings
• 1.5 yards / 1.5 meters of 1” / 2.5cm wide ribbon
• Yarn needle
• Scissors

US pattern notations used
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = triple crochet
sl st = slip stitch
cl = cluster stitch*
yo = yarn over
x = times

*Create the cluster stitch as follows: * yo, insert hook in st, yo, pull through st, repeat from * 4x, yo and pull through all sts on hook.