Baby booties are what I always make up for friends and family who are soon to have a little baby come into their lives. However, when I was pregnant I didn't get around to making any booties for my own little boy and by the time that I had a few minutes spare to do a little crochet for him he was already 7 months old!

So I designed these little booties for him - keeping it simple so that they would suit a little boy (though if made up in another colour they would probably look just as sweet on a little girl) and after a few failed bootie attempts I think I have come up with a pattern that is simple to make up and a good sturdy shape for little baby feet.

DK wool
3.5mm crochet hook
Darning needle (to work in loose ends)
2 matching buttons

My finished booties measure 10cm long by 4.5cm wide. Not too sure what age I would recommend these booties for - they are bigger than newborn size, possibly best fit for around 6 months old but remember that every baby is different so make them early and wait until they grow into them.

I will need to add this later...

This pattern uses American crochet terms. The following abbreviations used are:

ch - chain
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
sl st - slip stitch
tog - together (decreasing)

At the end of each row sl st to the first sc worked in the previous row

Left bootie

Row 1: ch 15, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 13 sc, 4 sc in first back loop, 12 sc, 2 sc in last back loop. (32 sc)

Row 2: ch 1, 12 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, 14 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc. (38 sc)

Row 3: ch 1, 12 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc* x 4, 14 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc. (44 sc)

Row 4: ch 1, 12 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc* x 4, 13 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 3 sc. (50 sc)

Row 5: ch 1, sc around (50 sc)

Row 6: ch 1, sc around in back loops only (50 sc)

Row 7&8: ch 1, sc around (50 sc)

Row 9: ch 1, 8 sc, *2 dc tog, 2 dc* x 4, sc around (46 sc)

Row 10: ch 1, 7 sc, *2 dc tog, 1 dc* x 4, sc around (42 sc)

Row 11: ch 1, 6 sc, 2 dc tog in next 4 dc, sc around (38 sc)

Row 12: 16 sl st, *ch 1 turn, 3 sc* x 11, ch 4, sl st into 3rd sc, sl st down edge of strap and continue to sl st to start of row.

Finish off.

Right bootie

Work Rows 1 to 11 as for Left bootie.

Row 12: ch 1, 2 sc, ch 1 turn, 2 sc, 1 sc into first ch *ch 1 turn, 3 sc* x 10, ch 4, sl st into 3rd sc, sl st down edge of strap and continue to sl st all the way round to start of row.

Finish off.

I named this pattern after my grandmother because, back when my grandmother was teaching me to crochet, this was the first pattern she taught me (and if a fumble-fingered 11 year old can learn to make this pattern, anyone can!). Someone taught it to her when she was first learning how to crochet. But in spite of how long it has been around, nobody wrote it down until now. I wanted to share the pattern, but do it in a way that recognizes that I am just the most recent link in a long chain of women who have been making and sharing this pattern.

• about 1 ounce of Worsted or Aran weight yarn
• H (5.5mm) hook (Using I (6mm) hook will make slightly larger bootie)
• large-eyed yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
• length of 3/16 or 1/4 inch wide ribbon for tie

Fits newborn - 8 mos. (Using I (6mm) hook will make slightly larger bootie)
Finished Length (sole of foot) = 3.5 - 3.75 inches
Finished Height (sole to top cuff) = about 4 -4.5 inches

10 stitches and 7 rows = 4 inches in half double crochet (hdc)

This adorable, easy-to-make baby bootie is made in half double crochet; a dense stitch that helps to insulate baby’s feet, making this bootie perfect for winter babies or babies who live in chilly climates. The pattern is quick and simple to make, and the finished product is both cute and practical. This is a project that is very suitable for beginners.

Stitches used in this pattern:

1. Chain stitch (ch)
2. Half double crochet (hdc)
3. Slip stitch (sl st)
4. Double crochet (dc) (if using alternate ruffle edging)
5. Single crochet (sc) (if using alternate ruffle or contrast edging)

Direct Download a Free PDF of this Pattern at:

• http://sweetbird.awardspace.com/BabyBooties.pdf
• http://www.box.net/shared/vn4skttrnb (alternate site)

Directions are given in American English.

This pattern is free for people to make, use, and distribute. However, it may not be used for commercial purposes.

I know so many people who love ladybugs but I could never find a great pattern, so here it is!

a ball of yarn about the size of your fist in any color you choose and black
crochet hook size H/8
yarn needle
polyfill

Roughly 6" x 4" x 2"

Gauge is unimportant since this is a toy

On round one for the body, head and dots you may find the instructions confusing or difficult. If this is the case you can use these ones instead:
ch 2, sc six times in sec ch from hook, mark first sc with a scrap of yarn in a different color so you know where the round begins
ABBREVIATIONS
sc - single crochet
scs - single crochets
rnd - round
ch - chain
slpst - slip stitch
sec - secound
lp - loop

GETTING STARTED
BODY
RND 1: With the color of your choice make a loop in the yarn. Hold the yarn together where it crosses. Make sure the tail is on the right and the ball end on the left. sc six times in the lp, mark first sc with a scrap of yarn in a different color so you know where the round begins. Hold onto the tail of the yarn and push your stitches together until it forms something like a ring.
RND 2: sc twice in next six sc (12 sc)
RND 3: *sc in next sc, sc twice in next sc*, repeat from * to * around (18 sc)
RND 4:*sc in next two scs, sc twice in next sc*, repeat from * to * around (24 sc)
RND 5:*sc in next three scs, sc twice in next sc*, repeat from * to * around (30 sc)
RND 6:*sc in next four scs, sc twice in next sc*, repeat from * to * around (36 sc)
RND 7:*sc in next five scs, sc twice in next sc, repeat from * to * around (42 sc)
RNDS 8-10:sc in next sc and in each sc around (42 sc)
join with slpst to next sc, finish off
RND 11: join black with slpst to any sc, *skip next sc, sc in next 6 scs*, repeat from * to * around (36 sc)
RND 12:*skip next sc, sc in the next 5 scs*, repeat from * to * around (30 sc)
RND 13:*skip next sc, sc in the next 4 scs*, repeat from * to * around (24 scs)
RND 14:*skip next sc, sc in the next 3 scs*, repeat from * to * around (18 scs)
RND 15:*skip next sc, sc in the next 2 scs*, repeat from * to * around (12 scs)
Before you close off the body stuff it now.
RND 16:*skip next sc, sc in next sc*, repeat from * to * around (6 scs)
RND 17:sc in next sc and in every sc following, finish off and close remaining hole.
THE BODY IS FINISHED!
HEAD
RND 1: With black, make a loop in the yarn. Hold the yarn together where it crosses. Make sure the tail is on the right and the ball end on the left. sc six times in the lp, mark first sc with a scrap of yarn in a different color so you know where the round begins. Hold onto the tail of the yarn and push your stitches together until it forms something like a ring.
RND 2:sc twice in next sc and in each sc around (12 scs)
RND 3:*sc in next sc, sc twice in next sc*, repeat from * to * around (18 scs)
RND 4:*sc in next 2 scs, sc twice in next sc*, repeat from * to * around (24 scs)
RND 5-7:sc in each sc around
RND 8:*skip next sc, sc in next 3 scs*, repeat from * to * around (18 scs)
RND 9:*skip next sc, sc in next 2 scs*, repeat from * to * around (12 scs)
Stuff head then continue to round 10
RND 10:*skip next sc, sc in next sc*, repeat from * to * around
(6 scs)
finsih off and attach head to body
ANTENNE (MAKE 2)
With black ch 4, sc in sec ch from hook andin next 2 scs, finish off and attach to head
LEGS (MAKE 6)
With black ch 8, sc in sec ch from hook and in next 6 scs, finish off and attach to body
BIG DOTS (MAKE 2)
RND 1: With black, make a loop in the yarn. Hold the yarn together where it crosses. Make sure the tail is on the right and the ball end on the left. sc six times in the lp. Hold onto the tail of the yarn and push your stitches together until it forms something like a ring.
RND 2: sc twice in next 6 scs, join to next sc with a slpst, finish off and attach to sides of body
SMALL DOTS (MAKE 5)
with black, ch 2, sc 6 times in sec ch from hook, slpst in next sc, finish off and sew onto body where you think it looks best.
Stitch on face with scraps of yarn.
YOUR LADYBUG IS NOW FINISHED!!!!

A couple of years ago, I made this beautiful “one piece” knit baby sweater using a pattern from some magazine from the 70’s. It started from the back and continued in one piece over the shoulders, picking up one side to finish. It was easy enough but it took me 6 weeks to complete, because I just wasn’t that good at knitting. I thought how nice it would be to have a similar pattern in crochet. So, I adapted it, and voila, here it is. The nicest thing about it is that, with the chunky yarn, it only takes about 3 hours to make. There are two options for sweater bands below.

• 1 skein, Lionbrand Homespun Yarn (Bulky/6 oz/185 yards). Note: for 12 months you will need a little more than one skein.
• 1-2 ozs worsted weight yarn in contrast color for edging and buttons.
• Size K (6.5mm) hook for sweater
• 2 buttons
• Size H (5.0mm) hook for optional crocheted buttons
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends

6 mos (12 mos)
Length 10” (11”)
Chest 20” (23”)
Sleeve 6.5” (7.5”)

10 hdc and 8 rows = 4”/10cm

Samples used:
Blue: LB Homespun Montana Sky with TLC Lustre Lt Blue
Pink: LB Homespun Boston Rose with TLC Lustre Black
Coral: LB Homespun Coral Gables with Bernat Satin Pink
Green: LB Homespun Florida Keys Green with GGH Samoa Fuchsia

US Pattern Notations Used
Ch = chain
St = stitch
Sc = single crochet
Hdc = half double crochet
Sl st = slip stitch
Sc2tog = single crochet two together

Sweater is made in one piece starting at the bottom of the back side. The turning chain counts as the first hdc of a row, and the next hdc is made into the next stitch.

Begin
Ch 26 (29)

Row 1: Hdc into 3 rd Ch. Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. – 25 (28) Hdc

Rows 2-9: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows before moving on to next row.

Row 10: Hdc across. Fasten off.

Row 11: Add sleeves: Ch 15(17). With right side facing, Hdc into 1 st st, where you fastened off (leaving chain hanging off the hook, wrap the yarn over the hook, insert into first st and complete Hdc). Hdc across. Ch 16(18), turn.

Row 12: Hdc into 3 rd ch and Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. – 55(62) Hdc.

Rows 13-19: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows before moving on to next row.

Row 20: Hdc for 22(24) sts. Sl st in next 11(14) sts. Hdc in last 22(24) sts. Ch 2, turn.

Rows 21-22: Hdc across 22(24) sts. Ch 2, turn.

Row 23: Hdc across. Ch 12(14), turn.

Row 24: Hdc into 3 rd ch. Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. – 33(37) Hdc.

Rows 25-27: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows before moving on to next row.

Row 28: Hdc into first 18(20) sts. Ch 2, turn. – 18 (20)Hdc

Rows 29-38: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows hdc before fastening off.

Fasten off.

Pick up for the left sleeve.

Row 1: With front of sweater facing you, begin at the outside edge. Insert hook into first st and Ch 2. Hdc in next 21(23) sts. – 22(24) Hdc.

Row 2: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn.

Row 3: Hdc across. Ch 6(8) and turn.

Row 4: Hdc into 3 rd ch and Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. – 27 (31)Hdc.

Rows 5-7: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows before moving on to next row.

Row 8: Hdc in first 12(14) sts. Ch 2, turn. – 12(14) Hdc

Rows 9-18: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows hdc before fastening off.

Fasten off.

To finish.

Option 1, as shown in Florida Keys Green with fuchsia band (shown left):

With contrast color and with the right side facing you, loosely sc along left placket. Place 3 sc in corner at the beginning of the neckline. Sc around neckline. Place 3 sc in top corner of right placket and sc down the right side. Ch 1, turn. Sc back around, placing 3 sc in the right corner, until you reach the top of the left placket. Place 3 sc in left corner and sc in next st. To make long buttonhole, ch 8 and join with sc to same st. Sc in next 3 sts, ch 8 and join with sc to same st. Sc to end. Fasten off. Add two rows of loose sc in contrast color to short end of both sleeves. Fold sweater along shoulder with right sides facing each other. Connect seams with either whipstitch or slip stitch, along both sides of body and under sleeves. Turn right side out. Place buttons, using buttonholes as a guide, and sew to right side.

Option 2, as shown in Coral Gables with pink band (shown right):

With contrast color and with the right side facing you, loosely sc along left placket. Place 3 sc in corner at the beginning of the neckline. Sc around neckline. Place 3 sc in top corner of right placket and sc down the right side. Ch 1, turn. Sc back around, placing 3 sc in the right corner, until you reach the top of the left placket. Place 3 sc in left corner and sc in next st. To make buttonhole, ch 3, skip two sts and sc in next. Sc in next, ch3, skip two sts, and sc in next. Sc to end. Ch 1 and sc around bottom edge of sweater for two rows. Fasten off. Add two rows of sc in contrast color to short end of both sleeves. Fold sweater along shoulder with right sides facing each other. Connect seams with either whipstitch or slip stitch, along both sides of body and under sleeves. Turn right side out. Place buttons, using buttonholes as a guide, and sew to right side.

To make optional crocheted buttons. With contrast color and smaller hook, chain 4 and join to first ch. Six sc in center and join to first sc. Ch 1, *sc in next two sts, 2 sc in next* repeat to end of round and join. Ch 1, sc2tog around and join. Leaving a long tail for sewing button on, fasten off.