Victorian style lacy

25g nr20 cotton yarn
24, about 6mm bead
12 big bead
hook 1,5

23 cm

10 round = 8cm

Ok, so here's the deal, this pattern is extremely easy. There's no rocket science to it. Why did I decide to post it ? Well, many times I've tried to read instructions from other patterns and for some reason I sometimes can't get it right and I know there are others out there that feel the same way. Well, this one pattern is for anybody that wants to do an easy scarf with no science behind it. That's why this scarf is called the Mindless Scarf.

1. I used a hook size J/10-6.00mm of the Boye brand
2. Yarn color is Denim Mist medium size 4 from Vanna's Choice collection and it's 100% Acrylic.
3. A measuring tape would be good to measure how long the scarf would be on a child by putting the measuring tape around the neck and letting it drop. It wouldn't matter on an adult.

***Here's another tip, the color will never matter ! Just make sure that if you are doing this for a friend as a gift, ask them what is their favorite color and just surprise them !***

The finished size of this scarf with this pattern was 49" long and 4" wide by the time I was done. Remember, a project can lose length as you crochet.

Regarding the gauge, I noticed that for this project 10 DC = 4"(10cm).

Ch = chain
YO = yarn over
DC = double crochet
TN = tapestry needle

Start by chaining as long as you need to. Some patterns will tell you to chain an X amount of chains, but have in mind that the length of the scarf is determined by the length of the person's torso. A scarf that is too short won't look proper on a person.

Once you have reached the desired lenght in the starting chain, do a DC on the 4th ch loop from the hook. After the DC is done, skip one ch and do a DC on the next ch. Follow this pattern till you reach the end. It should look like a ladder.

***If you reach the end and there is an odd chain left, do a DC on it***

Then ch 4, turn your project, and do a DC around the Ch, not on the loop of the Ch but around the Ch, so in other words you are YO, going under the Ch, YO again and complete the steps of finishing the DC.

A little gift bag. I use it or my Amigurumi dolls.

I have used 4 ply acrylic yarn and 3 mm hook.

Size: bottom diameter 4" (10 cm) high 10" (25.5 cm)

x

To download the pattern as a PDF:
Click Here

Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in second chain from hook. (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around. (18)
Rnd 4: (Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (24)
Rnd 5: (Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (30)
Rnd 6: (Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (36)
Rnd 7: (Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (42)
Rnd 8: (Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (48)
Rnd 9: (Sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (54)
Rnd 10: (Sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (60)
Rnd 11: (Sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (66)

I'm trying my best to do my bit for the environment. I recycle paper, card. plastic bags and clothes. I use alot of milk and have so many cartons in the recyling bag every week.I came up with the plant pot in a bid to do something about my waste.

I decided to use alternative yarn which was parceling string. The beauty of this pattern is you can use anything as yarn the only thing that limits you is your creativity .In my house nothing is safe.

Make them to match the decor of every room you have, I promise once you start making them you'll wonder how you lived with out them.

It is a very quick and easy pattern that satisfies those urges to make something now.

Crochet hook 4.5mm
parceling string 40-50g
plastic milk bottle
a pair pf scissors

n/a

I have not bothered with tension ,I did a few rows with different sized hooks and then decided whether i wanted the stitch to be lacey or very compact.

:All crochet terms are uk terms

:Do not crochet the bottom of the carton as it will be unstable you need it to be flat.

:You have to cut the funnel part of the carton off, you decide the length.

Making this pattern could not be simpler, you decide the stitch you want ,you also choose your hook size.Its cusom made which enables you to not only use those scraps of yarn you have lying around. but also to use any type of 'yarn'

You can use this in everyroom in the house.I have one in the kitchen to hold cutlery, in the bathroom it holds toothbrushes,my children have one to hold pens.The list is endless.

http://heldasland.blogspot.com/2009/11/recycled-plastic-bottles.html

Hope you enjoy it.

Need a quick and easy afghan for Christmas, or something to whip up in just a few days? This ripple afghan is perfect!

Caron Simply Soft Autumn Red (7 skeins)
Size 6 hook

n/a

n/a

Chain 135

Foundation Row:

Sc into second ch from hook and into next 6 ch, *3 sc into next ch, sc into next 7 ch, skip next 2 ch, sc into next 7 ch. Repeat from * across, ending row with 3 sc into next ch, sc into next 7 ch - 136 sc total. Ch 2, turn.

Pattern Row:

Skip first sc, dc into next 7 sc, *3 dc into next sc, dc into next 7 sc, skip next two sc, dc into next 7 sc. Repeat from * across, ending row with 3 dc into next sc, dc into next 6 sc, skip next sc, dc into last sc, 136 dc total. Chain 2, repeat pattern row.

End with a sc pattern row for sturdier edge.

See thehooknook.blogspot.com for pictures and progress.

I used the Spike Single Crochet stitch from the latest Interweave Crochet to create a hat with a cool spike feature, but still warm and cozy for the coming snow.

I used just under 1 skein of Manos del Uruguay Wool Classica, which is a 100 gr skein (or 138 yards). I think just about any wool yarn will do though.

I used a K hook, but again I think this is pretty flexible, as long as the first two chains fit your noggin you're set.

One size fits all (its a beanie!)

I didn't do a gauge swatch on this, sorry! I rarely ever gauge if its a hat, but if you need help with the sizing let me know and I'll lend a hand.

The only special stitch you'll really need to know about is the Spike Single Crochet which is as follows:

Insert hook in next stitch, 1 row down, yarn over, pull loop to height of working row, yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook.

This alternates with a regular single crochet through the pattern to create the spiked effect.

Also, here's a refresher on sc2tog: Single crochet together. Insert hook into st, wrap yarn once (two loops on hook), insert into next stitch, wrap yarn once (3 loops on hook) pull hook through all three loops.

If you have any issues at all, or want to leave me a nasty comment on my blog, its http://thecraftyhooker.blogspot.com

*Do not join! Just keep working in the round, marking the first stitch with a marker*

Rd 1: Chain 61 (or however many it takes to fit your head, but it must be an odd number to create the effect we want).

Rd 2: sc in each st (61)

Rd 3- sc in first st, spike stitch in sc one row below the next stitch (this is the spike single crochet), continue this until the end of the row.

Rd 4 - spike stitch in sc one row below first stitch, sc in next stitch - continue this until the end of the row

Rd 5-17 - repeat rds 3 and 4.

(add rows if needed for height after row 17, just continue using rds 3 and 4)

Begin Decrease!

Rd 18: sc 1, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 58 st (60)

Rd 19: sc 8, sc2tog (6 times) - 54

Rd 20: sc 7, sc2tog (6 times) - 48

This pattern was born out a) an urge to make mittens and b) an even greater urge to use Deborah Norville Serenity Chunky-Weight yarn (SO SOFT). I'd tried to make mittens before, and the decreases at the top always kicked my butt. I was making my first ever sock when it hit me: why not use the toe/heel decrease instead of decreasing around?!

And thus, for your viewing pleasure, the Chunky Mittens were born. These make great liners, and would probably be rad if you made them a bit big then felted them! (I haven't tried this yet, but if you do and it works, tell me!)

(Note: I mentally referenced Julia's Basic Fingerless Mittens pattern for the hands of my mittens, and the finger decreases were, in fact, inspired by the In Your Shoes Ankle Socks. Yes, it's a convoluted train of thought, but it worked, right? Also, this pattern hasn't been tested, and it's my first posted pattern. If you note a mistake, or if something doesn't make sense, feel free to point it out...NICELY.)

-1 Skein Deborah Norville Chunky Weight Yarn (100 % acrylic, 100 grams, 109 yds (100 m) per skein) (I used Red Orche, but any color will do)
-Size 6.50 (K-10) hook
-Measuring tape
-Yarn needle
-Safety pins or stitch markers

Custom!

Not important for this pattern, since you'll be using your own hand measurements.

-All sc are worked in the front loop only unless otherwise noted.
-All rounds are worked in a spiral.

First, you need to make some measurements so the mittens fit.

Measurement V: The circumference of your wrist at its thinnest.
Measurement W: The height of your hand from where the wrist joins the hand to where the bottom of your thumb joins your hand (about 1/3 of your hand)
Measurement X: The height of your hand from where the wrist joins the hand to the tip of your pinkie (about 4/5 of your hand).
Measurement Y: The height of your hand from where the wrist joins the hand to the tip of your middle finger (aka the height of your hand).
Measurement Z: The length of your thumb.

Write all these down so you can refer back to them later.

Mittens (Make Two):

Cuff:

A cute little fall pumpkin

Hook size 4.50
orange yarn
green yarn
needle
fibre fill

3inches

4.50

Chain 9
Second ch from hook sl st , 1 single crochet, 1 half double crochet, 2 double crochet, 1 half double, 1 single crochet and 1 slip shift, turn ch 1
Repeat in back loops only for 19 rows
Cinch bottom together
Stuff pumpkin
Sctog around top of pumpkin with green, continue around in single crochet to make the stem
Chain 10, in second chain from hook 3 single crochets, 3 single crochets in each chain till end, leave long end, sew to stem
Tie off loose ends

I like these bangles, they're comfy and they don't make a loud racket when you move your arms!
Make them in a rainbow of colours to suit your outfit or simply give them as gifts.
This pattern first appeared on my blog http://hookylove.blogspot.com/

I used Rowan Cotton Rope (Aran weight) but any aran weight would do, and a 4.5mm hook.

variable, that's the best thing!

Gauge is not important, just make sure the starting chain can fit around your wrist!
I used a smaller hook than stated on the yarn, just to make the gauge is tight so the bangle has more structure.

I write in UK terms!

Abbreviations:

ch: chain
dc: double crochet
sl st: slip stitch
blo: back loop only
ws: wrong side
sts: stitches

Ch 35, sl st into 1st chain to join (careful not to twist the chain!)

Row 1: Ch 1,dc in one leg of each foundation ch around. Sl st into 1st dc to join

Row 2: Work all sts in blo. Ch 1, dc in each dc around. Sl st to 1st dc to join

Rows 3 & 4: Repeat row 2

To finish, fold in half with ws facing to form bangle shape. Sl st around, joining blo of Row 4 to one leg of foundation ch. end off.

For the black and red bangle I alternated the colours each row, for the red and yellow I changed colour for rows 2&3 then back to the original colour for row 4

Happy bangling!

A quick, easy project made from super bulky yarn. Great for spring or fall weather.

-1 skein super bulky weight yarn (weight category 6)
I used Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick (75% acrylic/25% wool) in Lemongrass.
-10 mm (US N/P-15) crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
-Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Fits an average adult woman's neck.

Approx. 3 stitches and 2.5 rows = 5 cm (2") in dc

Exact gauge is not critical, but it needs to fit over your head :)

Stitches used:
ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
dc: double crochet

tch: turning chain

Pattern is worked in rounds that are joined, but not turned.

Foundation row: Ch 40. Join to first ch with sl st, making sure not to twist work.
Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as st). Sc in each sc. Sl st in first sc to join (40 sc).
Row 2: Repeat Row 1.
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Dc in next 5 sc. [Ch 2 loosely. Skip next 2 sc. Dc in next 6 sc] 4 times. Ch 2 loosely, skip next 2 sc. Sl st in 3rd ch of tch to join. (40 sts: 30 dc, 5 ch-2 spaces)
Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Dc in next 3 dc. [Ch 2 loosely. Skip next 2 dc. Dc in next 2 ch, dc in next 4 dc] 4 times. Ch 2 loosely, skip next 2 dc. Dc in next 2 ch. Sl st in 3rd ch of tch to join. (40 sts: 30 dc, 5 ch-2 spaces)