This is a simple Tam you can create in very little time.

Hook size J/10 6.00mm
Red Heart Hunter Green and Aqua
Tapestry needle to sew ends

Top Diameter is 11 inches
Head band size is 21"

First three rounds (1 - 3) should be approximately 2"

Chain 2 does not count as first stitch
Join to 1st stitch throughout
Stitches Used: Double Crochet, Treble crochet, Shell(3 Dc), Decrease TR , Decrease SC

Using MC

Ch 3

1: 12 dc in first ch, join to first Dc, ch 2

2: 2 Dc in each stitch around, join to first Dc, ch 2

3: 1 Dc in first st, 2 DC in next st around, join to first Dc, ch 2

4: 1 Dc in first 2 stitches, 2 Dc in next stitch around, join to first Dc, ch 2

5: 1 Dc in first 3 stitches, 2 Dc in next stitch around, join to first Dc, ch 2

6: 1 Dc in first 4 stitches, 2 Dc in next stitch around, join to first Dc, ch 2

7: TR in each stitch around join to first TR, finish off.

Join 2nd Color to any stitch with a sl st ch 3

8: 2 Dc in same stitch as join, Skip 2 stitches, 3 Dc in next st Repeat around, join to first Dc, finish off.

Join MC to any stitch with a sl st ch 3

9: TR in each stitch around, join to first TR, finish off.

Join 2nd Color to any stitch with a sl st ch 3

10: 2 Dc in same stitch as join, Skip 2 stitches, 3 Dc in next st Repeat around, join to first Dc, finish off.

Join MC to any stitch with a sl st ch 3

11: 1 TR in first 3 stitches, DEC TR over next two stitches, around, join to first TR ch 3

12: 1 TR in first 2 stitches, DEC TR over next two stitches, around, join to first TR ch 3

13: 1 sc in first stitch, DEC SC over next two stitches, around, join to first sc ch 1

14: Sc in each stitch around join to first sc

VISOR:
1 - 5: Sc in next 11 stitches ch 1 turn (5 times) finish off

Join with a sl st to first row of 11 sc (see diagram below)

6 -10: Sc across ch 1 turn (5 times) finish off leaving a long tail

Sew up visor

->this is where you join with sl st
->XXXXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXXXXXX

A little cozy for your ipox, mp3 player or cell phone. Just a quick simple project to kill an hour or two. Also a great stash project since it only takes a handful of yarn.

USH8, 5.00 mm (Use a smaller hook for a tighter weave.)

Baseball size ball of yarn, acrylic is the sturdiest and most washable but 100% cotton, hemp or any sportweight would probably work fairly well too.

2" x 4" (Length and width may vary slightly)

(Long enough to hold an ipod nano, ear buds and space at the top. Can also be cuffed down to the top of the device.)

(Isn't of importance)

This cozy is worked top to bottom in rounds. Sl st at end of each row and ch 2 to begin the next.

Ch 25, sl st to close ring (being careful not to twist ring.)

Round 1: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, sl st in top of ch 2 to close ring.

Rounds 2 - 14: Repeat round 1, or until piece is the length you want.

Round 15: Sl st around. Fasten off, leaving 8 to 10 inch tail of yarn.

Round 16: Whip the bottom stitches together.

This hat is a typical top-down affair worked in the round, except that it is joined and turned between rounds. This allows for seamless color changes in the stripes.

144 yd 4/worsted weight yarn in MC
144 yd 4/worsted weight yarn in CC
Size J-10 (6.0 mm) crochet hook

Fits average man’s head (22” circumference)

7 rnds = 4" across.

http://crochetkitten.blogspot.com/2008/01/animators-hat.html

This started as a mistake, but I ran with it, and now it's one of my favorite caps. It leaves room for people with curly or thick hair, if you just had a hairstyle done. It's also just plain fashionable! Takes no time at all (accomplished in about 45 minutes in between watching TV). No need for lots of attention to make this cap.

Caron Perfect Match Black (don't need a whole skein)

Divine yarn for the rim (but you can use whatever you fancy)

Fits almost any size head. And as usual, you can decrease or increase accordingly.

Totally depends on the yarn you use. This was mostly done visually, so take a guess and go with it!

Ch 5, slip stitch into a circle.

Rd 1: Ch 3 (counts as first DC) and then dc 9 more in circle. Slip stitch to 3rd ch in first ch3.

Rd. 2-3: 2 DC in EACH dc in the round.

These fingerless gloves are quick and easy to make. They will keep your hands warm in winter and make great gifts.

Size H/5.00mm Crochet hook.
Approx 32g of any 8ply yarn. I used 8ply mulitcolored yarn that i had left over from another project.

Approx 16cm long.

18 sc and 12 rows of cuff pattern = 4" (10cm)

Abbreviations:

st / sts = stitch / stitches

ch = chain

ss = slip stitch

sc = singe crochet

tr = treble crochet

Cuff:

Work all sts through back loop only.

Beg: Make 16 ch.

Row 1: 1 sc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 ch in next 13 ch, 1 ch, turn.

Row 2: sc in next 14 ch, 1 ch, turn.

Rows 3-25. Repeat row 2.

Join beg row and row 25 together using ss, 1 ch, do not fasten off.

Mitten:

Working into the ends of the cuff rows.

Row 1: sc in the end of each cuff row (25 sc), ss to join, 1 ch.

Turn cuff inside out, the right is now facing.

Row 2: 2 sc, *(1 tr and 1 sc in next sc), 2 sc, 1 tr, 3 sc,  repeat from * to end, ending with 3 sc, ss to join, 1 ch, turn.

You now have bobbles on the the outside of your gove

Row 3: sc in next 26 sc, ss to join, 1 ch, turn.

Row 4: 4 sc, *(1 tr and 1 sc in next sc), 3 sc, repeat from * to end, ending with 4 sc, ss to join, 1 ch, turn.

Row 5: sc in next 30 sc, ss to join, 1 ch, turn.

Row 6: 2 sc, *1 tr, 4 sc,  repeat from * to end, ending with 2 sc, ss to join, 1 ch, turn.

Row 7: repeat row 5.

Row 8: 6 sc, *1 tr, 4 sc,  repeat from * to end, ending with 4 sc, ss to join, 1 ch, turn.

Row 9: repeat row 5.

Row 10: 2 sc, 5 ch, skip next 5 sc, 5 sc, *sc 1 tr, 4 sc,  repeat from * to end, ending with 6 sc, ss to join, 1 ch, turn.

Row 11: sc in next 30 sc, ss to join, 1 ch, turn.

Row 12: sc in next 30 sc, ss to join, 1 ch, turn.

Row 13: dec 2 sts, sc in each sc to end (28 sc), ss to join, 1 ch, turn.

Row 14: dec 2 sts, sc in each sc to end (26 sc), ss to join, 1 ch, turn.

Row 15: dec 2 sts, sc in each sc to end (24 sc), ss to join, fasten off.

I like crocheting socks from the toe-up. You can try them on as you go and adjust the calf length to the amount of yarn remaining. I also like to crochet the heel as I go; no after-thoughts for me. The custom fit is better and you’re finished when the cuff is done. I designed this pattern so I could crochet socks my way – toe up in one piece with a gusseted heel.

• MC: Gedifra Fashion Trend Sportivoe (70% superwash wool, 23% polyamid, 7% polyester, 200m/50g), color – 5768, 2 balls per pair
• Substitute: About 400m of any sock yarn  
• US F/3.75mm hook for body of sock
• US E /3.5mm hook for cuff
• Yarn needle
• Stitch markers

S [M, L]

Circumference of foot: 8 [8.75,9.5] inches

Length: to fit

20 esc / 20 rows = 4 inches

Gauge is measured over extended single crochet. Row gauge is not terribly important since you will crochet the sock to fit a measured length. If you have trouble obtaining the specified stitch gauge, try following the directions for the next smaller or larger size to ensure a good fit.

Pattern is worked primarily in the round. Do not turn or join rounds unless directed otherwise.

Stitch markers are used to mark the increases in the toe section and then are not used again until you reach the ankle/heel area. Markers should be moved up in the same stitch in each round. Once you complete the toe, you can remove the markers, crochet in the round til you reach the ankle, and then replace them. Or move the markers up with each round if you prefer. It is helpful to use a distinct marker to mark the start of the round, to distinguish it from the mid-round marked stitch. I use 2 safety pins hooked together to mark the start of the round and single pins everywhere else.

For simplicity and symmetry, increases are always made in pairs, before and after each marked stitch. Increases are made by crocheting two stitches (either sc or esc as applicable) in the specified stitch.

When crocheting the first few rows of the heel, I sometimes find it difficult to distinguish between the heel stitches and the next unworked foot stitch. For this reason, I mark the first and last stitch of the heel as well as the next unworked foot stitch on both ends of the heel. While moving the markers can be a pain, it allows for mindless crocheting of the heel. After the first few rows, when the heel is established and it’s easier to tell the stitches apart, I dispense with the markers.

Special Stitch Patterns:

Extended single crochet (esc): Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through one loop, yarn over and pull through both loops. (Sort of like making a chain stitch at the beginning of your single crochet stitch.)

Fpdc & bpdc (front post double crochet & back post double crochet, respectively): See instructions here.

Toe

With MC and larger hook, ch 11.

Round 1: Sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across, continue sc up other side in free loops of chain (20 sc).

SAVE YOUR SCRAPS!

I've said this before, and I'll say it again: I have a little problem. Unless it's only a few inches long, I cannot throw yarn away. I even bought a bag of scrap yarn and odd balls from a thrift store once! This isn't really a bad thing. I don't like to waste yarn and my efforts to work through my stash of scraps have resulted in many creative ideas, patterns (many of which are on this site), and interesting FOs.

I am not alone in my efforts to use oddments and odd balls -- one may draw inspiration from the Odd Balls Knitting and Crocheting Flickr group.

I never had a hot water bottle until I moved to Glasgow, and now I wish I'd started using one before. I like to keep the heat off at night to save energy, but even under piles of blankets I am always a bit chilly when I first go to bed. A hot water bottle is a great way to keep cozy and warm -- I even like to use mine to keep my toes warm when I'm sitting at my desk at home. The thing is, if you want your hot water bottle to stay warm all night, you have to use really hot water, but then the hot water bottle is too hot to cuddle. That's why you need a hot water bottle cozy.  

I designed two versions. One is Fair Isle-inspired and is worked in the round using the tapestry crochet technique for part of it. The other is a patchwork cozy and is worked flat.

If you don't like the anchor chart provided, find a knitting or crochet chart and work from that. But c'mon, I had to use a nautical theme for my hot water bottle. I just couldn't help myself!

If you don't have a hot water bottle, you can use this pattern to make a bag or a pillow cover instead. Or not. Either way, I'm right. Just don't throw away your scraps!

• Approximately 400 yards (370 m) scrap yarn is enough for either cozy (this is a generous estimation, you might not need that much). Worsted or aran weight is recommended for the pattern -- for thinner yarns, try using two complimentary strands at once; for thicker yarns, I recommend making the cozy a few stitches narrower and a few rows shorter to ensure a proper fit.
• US G/7 (4.50 mm) hook or size needed to obtain gauge
• Yarn needle
• Stitch Marker

Will fit standard size hot water bottle, 8" x 11" (20 cm x 28 cm), not including the 'neck.' The Patchwork Cozy, 10" x 11" (25 cm x 28 cm), is a bit roomier than The Anchor Cozy, 8.5" x 11.5" (22 cm x 29 cm).

The Patchwork Cozy: 16 sts x 17 rows of sc in the round = 4" (10 cm)

The Anchor Cozy: 15 sts x 16 rows of sc in the round = 4" (10 cm)

Pick colors that go together -- your project may be a real eyesore if you use colors or color combinations that don't work well together.

When working color changes from the anchor chart, I find it looks best to change color mid-stitch. For a single crochet stitch, the final yo and draw-through is done with the new color. Additionally, while working with one color, 'carry' the other by crocheting over it. This color-changing technique is known as tapestry crochet and is explained by Carol Ventura. (Ed. note: Also see Carol's Get Your Ducks in a Row pattern from this issue.)

Although I designated the colors for the anchor chart as MC (the background color) and CC (the anchor color), feel free to change either color as often as you'd like. For ideas and inspiration, I like to look at knitted Fair Isle pieces because they have marvelous color combinations and often change color every few rows.  

Also, please note that when working tapestry crochet in the round from the anchor chart, as well as any knitting chart, the finished work will turn out looking slightly italicized, or on a slant. This is normal and is due to crochet stitches being slightly off-set from round to round.  

You may wish to carry a yarn throughout The Anchor Cozy so that the thickness and drape is the same throughout. If you do not wish to carry a yarn throughout the pattern, you may wish to switch to lighter weight yarns, such as DK or sport weight yarns, when working the tapestry crochet section from the anchor chart.

The Patchwork Cozy

Big Squares (make 4, using any colors or combo of colors you like)

Ch 17, turn.  

Spring can be chilly, so a wool cap ain't out of season. Worked up in oh-so-appropriate green yarn, this one is super simple, with a twist. Textured stitches are worked doubled, through first the back and then the front loop of the stitch. Totally nifty.

• MC: Patons Merino Wool-1 skein (3½ ounces/100 grams, 223 yards) -- I used approximately 1/3 skein. Color Deep Olive
• CC: Knit Picks Wool of the Andes (50 grams, 100 yards) -- I used approximately 20 yards. Color Avocado
• (One skein of each is enough to make at least two skull caps, with lots of leftovers from the Knit Picks -- perfect scrap yarn project)
• J (6.0 mm) hook
• I (5.5 mm) hook
• Tapestry needle

Fits an average sized head (about 21½” in circumference). To make smaller (for a child), skip Round 6. To make larger (about 23” in circumference), add another increase round after Round 6 and work Round 9 twice. For the well above average head, add two increase rounds after Round 6 and work Round 9 three times.

13 dc = 4" using J (6 mm) hook

Back Front Single Crochet (bfsc):  Insert hook in back loop of stitch and draw up a loop, insert hook in front loop of same stitch and draw up a loop (2 loops on hook), yo and draw through all three loops on hook.

There is something about having a sweater with an enormous monogram on it. Even better is a giant letter in Old English script! In this pattern, I’ve paired an Old English font with a fun monogram sweater to bring you Ye Olde Letter Sweater. You will have to do a little math to create your custom pattern and a chart of your sweater before you begin stitching.

This is a very easy drop shoulder pattern that requires only basic stitch knowledge and color change skills to complete. If you want to jazz it up a bit, use front post and back post stitches to create the monogram in relief. Try varying yarn weight and hook size and placement of the monogram for a different look. Create a striped background and do your monogram in a third color. Finish the neckline and sleeves with a picot stitch or shells for a more feminine version. Or, use the method described below and design your own graphic to stitch on your sweater!

• "A" Sweater:
• 3 skeins Red Heart Super Saver in Aran Fleck 4313 (96% acrylic, 4% other fibers; 5 oz/142 g; 260 yds/237 m)
• 1 skein Red Heart Super Saver in Coffee 0365 (100% acrylic; 7 oz/198 g; 364 yds/333 m)
• "P" Sweater:
• 2 skeins Caron Simply Soft Brites! In Berry Blue 9609 (100% acrylic; 6 oz/170 g; 315 yds/288 m)
• 1 skein Caron Simply Soft Brites@ in Mango 2605 (100% acrylic; 3 oz/85 g; 157 yds/144 m)
• An appropriately sized crochet hook
• Graph paper
• Calculator

Custom.

Make a 4" x 4" (10cm x 10cm) gauge swatch then divide to find your 1” (2.54 cm) gauge.

This pattern is written for custom sizing, in a worksheet format. You can print out a copy and fill in the blanks (_____) as you go. 

**Be sure to read these carefully before beginning to measure and crochet!**

If you use the men's size chart from yarnstandards.com, note that for the length, the back hip length is given. You will not need to add anything if you decide on a hip length sweater. If you decide to make a tunic-length sweater, you will need to add 4” to the back hip length given in the chart.

If the sweater recipient is larger around the middle, take a waist or hip measurement. Use whichever measurement is the larger of the waist/hip measurement or the cross back length measurement when making your chart.

The size of the armholes will be equal to the head circumference. If an adjustment needs to be made for larger arms, measure the biceps of the sweater recipient and add 7-8 inches, whichever is most comfortable.

Be sure to carefully read the fit and measurement descriptions before you begin. Double check your math and chart before you start!

Special Stitches

Hdc2tog (half-double crochet two together [decrease]): [Yo, insert hook into next stitch, draw up a loop] twice, yo, draw through all 5 loops on hook.

Fphdc (Front-post half-double crochet):  Work a half-double crochet around post of hdc of previous row from front as follows: Yo, insert hook into space before next hdc from front, wrap hook around post of the st, yo, draw loop through, yo, draw through all 3 loops on hook.

Bphdc (Back-post half-double crochet):  Work a half-double crochet around post of hdc of previous row from back as follows: Yo, insert hook into space before next hdc from back, wrap hook around post of the st, yo, draw loop through, yo, draw through all 3 loops on hook.

I am about to divulge my secret method of making top-down hats. The pattern here uses a DK weight alpaca, but you can use my secret method to crochet a hat from any kind of yarn and for any size head. You don't have to confine yourself to working in sc, either. You can try all sorts of stitches and stitch patterns once you get the hang of it. For those of you who are nervous about working without a pattern, relax. It's not as tricky and inflexible as you think. I used the same yarn in this pattern as I used in Flappy, but I didn't peek at the other pattern when I wrote this one. If you compare this pattern to the Top O' the Hat section from Flappy, you will notice that there are a few minor differences between the patterns. This doesn't mean I made a mistake making this hat, it just means that there's some flexibility with pattern-writing.

There are three ways I start top-down hats:  

• Method 1.  Ch 2.  Work X sts into first ch.
• Method 2.  Ch X, sl st in first ch to form ring. Work X sts into ring.  
• Method 3.  Make an adjustable loop. Work X sts into the loop, pull tail to tighten.

The second part of the hat is the increase section, which is adapted from the method of crocheting a disc in my favourite book, New Design in Crochet, by Clinton D. MacKenzie (Van Nostrand Reinhold Company, 1972).  The trick is to alternate rounds of increases (e.g., work 2 sc in each st around) with rows of regular stitches (e.g., sc in each st around) according to what looks best with your yarn, hook, tension, and gauge.  

At some point, you are going to stop working in a disc and start working your project into a hat shape. If you are lucky, your last round of increases will be the right size for your hat, but in many cases, you will have to space out your final round of increases (e.g., *work 2 sts in next st, sc in each of next X sts,* rep from * to * around; or *work 2 sts in each of next X sts, sc in next st,* rep from * to * around) in order to get the desired diameter. After that, work the hat in rows of regular stitches (e.g., sc in each st around) until your hat is the desired length. 

The last part of my secret method is the brim. If you're an absolute beginner, you don't need to do anything fancy, but the brim is a good place to practice new stitches, stitch patterns, and color changes. The brim in this pattern, "*sc-blo in next st, sc-tbl in next st,* rep from * to * around," alternates between front-loop and both-loop sc stitches. This produces a gentle ribbing effect that is more prominent on the reverse side (which you will see when the brim is folded up).

Now that I've explained my secret method, watch it in action.

• MC: 2 skeins Inca Cloud Artesano Alpaca (100% Alpaca, 131 yds/120m per 50g skein) color 2285 (electric blue) or approximately 260 yards/240m of any DK weight alpaca
• US F / 3.75mm hook
• Stitch marker (I find a dangle earring works well in lieu of a proper stitch marker)

Wee Noggin - 17.5"/45 cm circumference, 7.75"/20 cm brim-to-top

Normal Noggin - 22"/56 cm circumference, 9"/23 cm brim-to-top

Big Noggin - 26.5"/67 cm circumference, 10.25"/26 cm brim-to-top

19 sts x 24 rounds of sc = 4"(10 cm)

Special stitches

sc-blo: single-crochet, back-loop only (instead of working the sc through both loops, work the sc through the back-loop of the stitch).

sc-tbl: single-crochet, through both loops.  This is just a regular sc, but it is used to eliminate confusion when alternating between sc-blo and sc.

The Hat

All sizes

Make a

I've been fond of ear-flap hats ever since I first saw one in an Alice Starmore knitting book. Although I've never gotten around to knitting one, I've crocheted loads. The hat band, which can be crocheted on its own if you're just after an ear-warmer/headband, is done in front-post double crochet to create a ribbed faux-fair isle-style. If you're like me and you have loads of partial skeins lying around, this is a great way to use them up.

• MC: 2 skeins Inca Cloud Artesano Alpaca (100% Alpaca, 131 yds/120m per 50g skein): color #002 (brown) or approximately 260 yards/240m of any DK weight alpaca.  
• CC1 and CC2: 1/2 skein each of Inca Cloud Artesano Alpaca (100% Alpaca, 131 yds/120m per 50g skein): color #402 (olive green) and color #71 (burnt orange) or approximately 131 yards/120m of any DK weight alpaca or scrap yarn.  
• US F /5 (3.75 mm) hook
• Stitch marker (I find a dangle earring works well in lieu of a proper stitch marker)
• Yarn needle

Wee Noggin - 17.5" (45 cm) circumference, 6.75" (17 cm) brim-to-top
Normal Noggin - 22" (56 cm) circumference, 8" (20 cm) brim-to-top
Big Noggin - 26.5" (67 cm) circumference, 9.25" (23 cm) brim-to-top

The pattern is written for Wee Noggin with changes for Normal Noggin and Big Noggin in parentheses.

Earflaps - 2.4" wide x 3.5" long (6 cm x 9 cm)
Pigtails - 8" (20 cm) long

19 sts x 24 rounds of sc = 4" (10 cm)

Brim

With MC, ch 80 [100, 120], sl st in first ch to form ring.  

Round 1.  Ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc in each st around, sl st in 2nd ch of ch-2 to close ring. - 80 (100, 120) dc total

Round 2.  Ch 1 (counts as first sc), *fpdc around next dc of previous row, sc in next st*, rep from * to * around, ending fpdc around last dc of previous row, sl st in first ch to close ring.  

Round 3. With CC1, ch 1 (counts as first sc), *fpdc around post of next fpdc, sc in next st,*  rep from * to * around, ending fpdc around post of next fpdc,  sl st in first ch to close ring.

Round 4.  Repeat Round 3 in MC.  

Round 5.  Repeat Round 3 in CC2.  

Round 6.  Repeat Round 3 in CC1.  

Round 7.  Repeat Round 3 in CC2.  

Round 8.  Repeat Round 3 in MC.  

Round 9.  Repeat Round 3 in CC1.  

Rounds 10-11.  Repeat Round 3 in MC.  

Fasten off.

Top O' the Hat

All sizes

With MC, ch 3, sl st in first ch to form ring.  

Round 1:  Ch 1, work 10 sc into ring.  (10 sts)

Ignoring ch-1, begin crocheting in a spiral. To help keep track of rounds, place a stitch marker in the first stitch of the round to mark the beginning of the round. Move the marker up as your work progresses.

Round 2:  Work 2 sc in each st around.  (20 sts)

Rounds 3-4:  Sc in each st around.  

Round 5:  Work 2 sc in each st around.  (40 sts)

Rounds 6-10:  Sc in each st around.  

Round 11:  Work 2 sc in each st around.  (80 sts)

Wee Noggin Only  

Rounds 12-27*:  Sc in each st around.  

Sl st in next st.  Fasten off.

Normal Noggin Only

Rounds 12-18:  Sc in each st around.  

Round 19:  *Work 2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 sts,* rep from * to * around.  (100 sts)

Rounds 20-35*:  Sc in each st around.  

Sl st in next st.  Fasten off.

Big Noggin Only

Rounds 12-18:  Sc in each st around.  

Round 19:  *Work 2 sc in next st, sc in next st,* rep from * to * around.  (120 sts)

Rounds 20-43*:  Sc in each st around.  

Sl st in next st.  Fasten off.

* By all means feel free to adjust the number of rows to your preference if you want a taller or shorter hat!  

Earflaps

With CC1, ch 10.  Fasten off.  

Row 1:  Join CC2 in the blo, ch 1, sc in blo of each of first 9 ch, work 3 sc in last ch, sc in unworked loop of each ch along other side of ch to end.  Fasten off.  (21 sts)

Row 2:  Join MC in the blo, ch 1, sc-blo in each of the first 9 sts, work 2 sc-blo in each of the next 3 sts, sc-blo in each st to end.  Fasten off.  (24 sts)

Row 3:  Join CC1 in the blo, ch 1, sc-blo in each of the first 10 sts, work 2 sc-blo in each of the next 3 sts, sc-blo in each st to end.  Fasten off.  (27 sts)

Row 4:  Join MC in the blo, ch 1, sc-blo in each of the first 12 sts, work 2 sc-blo in each of the next 3 sts, sc-blo in each st to end, turn.  (30 sts)

Row 5:  Ch 1, sc-flo in each of first 11 sts, work 2 sc-flo in each of the next 2 sts, sc-flo in each of the next 4 sts, work 2 sc-flo in each of the next 2 sts, sc-flo in each st to end, turn.  (34 sts)

Row 6: Ch 1, sc-flo in each of the first 11 sts, work 2 sc-flo in each of the next 2 sts, sc-flo in each of next 8 sts, work 2 sc-flo in each of next 2 sts, sc-flo in each st to end.  Fasten off.  (38 sts)

Finishing

With MC, sew or sl st (I prefer the look of sl st done along the outside, or right side for this bit) the top o' the hat to the hat band.  Sew or sl st (I prefer the look of the sl st done along the inside, or wrong side, for this bit) the earflaps to the bottom of the hat band.  Fasten off. Weave in all ends.  

Pigtails (make two)

Cut (12) 24-inch strands of MC, CC1, and CC2.  With your finger or a large crochet hook, wiggle a hole/gap in the stitches between Rows 5 and 6 of the bottom of the earflap.  Stuff the strands through the gap and tie in a knot.  Braid the strands and tie at the bottom.

I learned to crochet because my college roommate returned from fall break one year with a really cute hat she'd just crocheted. I was jealous and told her I wanted the hat for myself. I begged. I pleaded. She refused, but offered to teach me to crochet so I could make my own hat. I've been making hats ever since.

I like making hats because it's a good way to try out a new kind of yarn, it only takes one or two skeins, it's a fast project, and if I don't want the hat for myself I can always give it to one of my friends.

This hat comes in two sizes: Regular head (will fit most women), and big head (for those of you with above-average sized craniums -- this size fits my husband nicely). The yarn is stretchy, too, so it will fit comfortably and you will have less of a chance of getting hat-head.

• Louisa Harding Fauve yarn, (100% Nylon, 127yds/116m per 50 g), 2 skeins, shade 06 (Note: I made the big head version with 2 skeins, but I had less than a meter of yarn left after making the hat; you might want to have a third skein on hand just in case.)
• 5.00mm (US H-8) hook
• Stitch marker (I find a dangle earring works well in lieu of a proper stitch marker)

Regular head: 7" (18cm) from top to brim, 24" (61cm) in diameter at the brim

Big head: 8.5" (22cm) from top to brim, 26" (66cm) in diameter at the brim.

18 sts x 16 rounds of sc (blo) = 4" x 4" (10cm x 10cm)

All stitches are worked through the blo (back loop only), except where noted.

The hat is crocheted in a spiral, so you will not make a join at the end of every round. To keep track of rounds, place a marker in the first stitch of the round; work in pattern, moving the marker with each round.

I couldn’t resist designing a little something for Halloween. Then "a little something" turned into two little somethings, then three, and by the time I was finished, there were enough "little somethings" to populate a zoo! Brightly colored and whimsical, these little half-masks work up quickly with simple stitches. However, what with all of the shaping, the color changes, and the sewing of things together, I wouldn’t recommend these for the novice crocheter. Make one. Make two. Make the whole zoo!

• Small amounts of various colors of Red Heart Super Saver yarn (colors indicated before individual patterns)
• 4.25 mm (size G) crochet hook
• Yarn Needle

Gauge is not significant in this pattern as long as it is consistent.

Crocodile Smile (pictured above)

Colors required: hunter green, white

I chose the title "Incognito Me" in imagining someone requesting to be costumed, and thought the "Me" part would charm the Ed. at Crochet me. Bootie-kisser I am, so long as it ends in fun. [Ed. note: I was charmed.]

The inspiration for the pattern came from the goodie bin at my son's pediatrician's office. He stuck in his thumb and pulled out a plum... no, wait... wrong story. He reached into the goodie bin and pulled out a flimsy set of Groucho Marx glasses. You know, those things with the plastic nose and moustache attached. I put them on and yelled at my son, "Hahhhh chachacha!" and then yelled, "AHA!", as I lightbulbed a crochet project from the experience. And people looked at me funny. And I thought, "Well, whatever. Look at me any way you want, but I get to make a super-dorky project, and y'all can't stop me." [Ed. note: I was also charmed by the use of "lightbulb" as a verb.]

• Lion Brand Jiffy - 1 skein of Black, 1 skein of Camel, plus 1 skein of any brand and color of eyelash yarn
• 10.0mm (size N) crochet hook for hat & nose
• 6.5mm (size K) crochet hook for brows & moustache

Gauge doesn't much matter, as the back of the hat can be adjusted with an added drawstring if necessary. The hat is large enough so that long hair can be stuffed up into it.

Mark the beginning of each round with a piece of scrap yarn or stitch marker.

Popcorn - 5 dc in st, drop lp from hook, insert hook in top of first dc of group, pull dropped lp through, ch 1.

It’s so easy to take the ones we love for granted. This autumn, my husband came home from the doctor’s with potentially scary news. All of a sudden, I realized that he might not always be there, healthy and energetic, my rock to rely on. Further medical investigations calmed our worries. But they did not suppress my urge to show him how much I love him. And how does a crocheter show her husband she loves him? By crocheting him something of course!

The result was this scarf in cashmere and wool. I crocheted in secret, and gave it to him for his birthday. And yes, he loves it.

• Yarn: Phildar Laine/Cachemire (65 yards/60 meters per 0.88 oz/25 grams), black 5 balls, grey 3 balls, red 2 balls (1 if you don’t make a fringe), off-white 1 ball.
• Hook: 5 mm (US H-8). A hook one size larger for the fringe.
• Notions: Piece of cardboard for fringe.

Excluding fringe: 9.5 x 52 inches / 24 x 132 cms

18 stitches and 23 rows = 4x4 inches/ 10x10 cm

This scarf is worked lengthwise. When crocheting the foundation chain, I suggest you place a marker in at least every 50th chain. This will save you time when counting.

In the pictures (and in real life), my husband wears the scarf folded double. Warm, comfortable and cozy! This is why you only see one of the two colour repeats that make up the width of the scarf.

The yarn I used can be hard to find in many countries. Please substitute at will, adapting number of stitches and number of rows. This stitch patterns lends itself to wonderful colourplay. Do experiment!

Stitch pattern: Granite stitch