For kids
Flappy
Author
by Chloe Nightingale
Introduction
I've been fond of ear-flap hats ever since I first saw one in an Alice Starmore knitting book. Although I've never gotten around to knitting one, I've crocheted loads. The hat band, which can be crocheted on its own if you're just after an ear-warmer/headband, is done in front-post double crochet to create a ribbed faux-fair isle-style. If you're like me and you have loads of partial skeins lying around, this is a great way to use them up.
Materials List
- MC: 2 skeins Inca Cloud Artesano Alpaca (100% Alpaca, 131 yds/120m per 50g skein): color #002 (brown) or approximately 260 yards/240m of any DK weight alpaca.
- CC1 and CC2: 1/2 skein each of Inca Cloud Artesano Alpaca (100% Alpaca, 131 yds/120m per 50g skein): color #402 (olive green) and color #71 (burnt orange) or approximately 131 yards/120m of any DK weight alpaca or scrap yarn.
- US F /5 (3.75 mm) hook
- Stitch marker (I find a dangle earring works well in lieu of a proper stitch marker)
- Yarn needle
Finished Size
Wee Noggin - 17.5" (45 cm) circumference, 6.75" (17 cm) brim-to-top
Normal Noggin - 22" (56 cm) circumference, 8" (20 cm) brim-to-top
Big Noggin - 26.5" (67 cm) circumference, 9.25" (23 cm) brim-to-top
The pattern is written for Wee Noggin with changes for Normal Noggin and Big Noggin in parentheses.
Earflaps - 2.4" wide x 3.5" long (6 cm x 9 cm)
Pigtails - 8" (20 cm) long
Gauge
19 sts x 24 rounds of sc = 4" (10 cm)
Notes
The Pattern
Brim
With MC, ch 80 [100, 120], sl st in first ch to form ring.
Round 1. Ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc in each st around, sl st in 2nd ch of ch-2 to close ring. - 80 (100, 120) dc total
Round 2. Ch 1 (counts as first sc), *fpdc around next dc of previous row, sc in next st*, rep from * to * around, ending fpdc around last dc of previous row, sl st in first ch to close ring.
Round 3. With CC1, ch 1 (counts as first sc), *fpdc around post of next fpdc, sc in next st,* rep from * to * around, ending fpdc around post of next fpdc, sl st in first ch to close ring.
Round 4. Repeat Round 3 in MC.
Round 5. Repeat Round 3 in CC2.
Round 6. Repeat Round 3 in CC1.
Round 7. Repeat Round 3 in CC2.
Round 8. Repeat Round 3 in MC.
Round 9. Repeat Round 3 in CC1.
Rounds 10-11. Repeat Round 3 in MC.
Fasten off.
Top O' the Hat
All sizes
With MC, ch 3, sl st in first ch to form ring.
Round 1: Ch 1, work 10 sc into ring. (10 sts)
Ignoring ch-1, begin crocheting in a spiral. To help keep track of rounds, place a stitch marker in the first stitch of the round to mark the beginning of the round. Move the marker up as your work progresses.
Round 2: Work 2 sc in each st around. (20 sts)
Rounds 3-4: Sc in each st around.
Round 5: Work 2 sc in each st around. (40 sts)
Rounds 6-10: Sc in each st around.
Round 11: Work 2 sc in each st around. (80 sts)
Wee Noggin Only
Rounds 12-27*: Sc in each st around.
Sl st in next st. Fasten off.
Normal Noggin Only
Rounds 12-18: Sc in each st around.
Round 19: *Work 2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 sts,* rep from * to * around. (100 sts)
Rounds 20-35*: Sc in each st around.
Sl st in next st. Fasten off.
Big Noggin Only
Rounds 12-18: Sc in each st around.
Round 19: *Work 2 sc in next st, sc in next st,* rep from * to * around. (120 sts)
Rounds 20-43*: Sc in each st around.
Sl st in next st. Fasten off.
* By all means feel free to adjust the number of rows to your preference if you want a taller or shorter hat!
Earflaps
With CC1, ch 10. Fasten off.
Row 1: Join CC2 in the blo, ch 1, sc in blo of each of first 9 ch, work 3 sc in last ch, sc in unworked loop of each ch along other side of ch to end. Fasten off. (21 sts)
Row 2: Join MC in the blo, ch 1, sc-blo in each of the first 9 sts, work 2 sc-blo in each of the next 3 sts, sc-blo in each st to end. Fasten off. (24 sts)
Row 3: Join CC1 in the blo, ch 1, sc-blo in each of the first 10 sts, work 2 sc-blo in each of the next 3 sts, sc-blo in each st to end. Fasten off. (27 sts)
Row 4: Join MC in the blo, ch 1, sc-blo in each of the first 12 sts, work 2 sc-blo in each of the next 3 sts, sc-blo in each st to end, turn. (30 sts)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc-flo in each of first 11 sts, work 2 sc-flo in each of the next 2 sts, sc-flo in each of the next 4 sts, work 2 sc-flo in each of the next 2 sts, sc-flo in each st to end, turn. (34 sts)
Row 6: Ch 1, sc-flo in each of the first 11 sts, work 2 sc-flo in each of the next 2 sts, sc-flo in each of next 8 sts, work 2 sc-flo in each of next 2 sts, sc-flo in each st to end. Fasten off. (38 sts)
Finishing
With MC, sew or sl st (I prefer the look of sl st done along the outside, or right side for this bit) the top o' the hat to the hat band. Sew or sl st (I prefer the look of the sl st done along the inside, or wrong side, for this bit) the earflaps to the bottom of the hat band. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.
Pigtails (make two)
Cut (12) 24-inch strands of MC, CC1, and CC2. With your finger or a large crochet hook, wiggle a hole/gap in the stitches between Rows 5 and 6 of the bottom of the earflap. Stuff the strands through the gap and tie in a knot. Braid the strands and tie at the bottom.
You're Gonna Catch Flies!
Author
by Tawnya Hopkins
Introduction
I am a mother of 4-year-old twin boys, and boy are they ALL BOY. They don’t go for finger puppets, frilly hearts, or anything girly. I made this project with them in mind. The frog’s mouth opens up so you can put “treasures" inside. Prevents many treasures from ending up in pants pockets and ruining a batch of laundry -- trust me, I speak from some experience here!
I also home school my boys, and often look for fun things to use as math manipulatives. So inside this frog are some flies: you can make as many as you want and then count them, add and subtract them, and so on.
And finally, with summer holidays coming up, this is a nice little toy to pack in a suitcase.
If you really have adventurous little ones, they could put real bugs inside the frog since it does provide some air holes, yet most insects can not get out. I don't encourage the capturing of creeping, crawly things but it could be done…
Materials List
- Approximately 50 yards (about 46m) of a green worsted weight yarn (I used Red Heart) (MC)
- Small amounts of red (A), white (B), and black (C) worsted weight yarn.
- 5.0mm (size US 8-H) hook
- Yarn needle for weaving in ends
Finished Size
Gauge
Gauge is not critical.
Notes
Due to the small size of the flies, this toy is not recommend for children who may still put things in their mouth. Please use common sense and your best judgment when making this, or any, toy for young children. Adult supervision is recommended.
The Pattern
Color Me
Author
by Andrea Mantler
Introduction
We, here at Crochet me, think pastel colors are for babies. Wait a sec. What we mean is that pastel colors are boring. When they're used for kid stuff. Kids are fun. Vibrant. Loud and colorful. They deserve stuff that's playful, not dull. Stuff that'll hide stains and spark the imagination. Like this blanket. Sure, crayons come in pastel colours. But kids never use the pastel ones when they write on the walls, do they?
Materials List
- Yarn: Sandnes Smart Superwash wool (109 yds/100 m per 50g ball, or substitute similar DK weight yarn
- 2 balls each in red (4219), orange (2708), yellow (2206), green (887), blue (5936), purple (5226)
- 6 balls charcoal (1088)
- 1 ball light grey (1042)
- 5.00mm (US size H/8) hook
Finished Size
Approximately 42" x 39".
Approximate crayon size (including point): 7" x 39" (17.8cm x 100cm).
Gauge
Approximate gauge in patt st: 15 stitches, 14 rows per 4" (10cm).
Since the pattern is for a blanket, matching the gauge is not as important as keeping a consistent gauge. However, if your gauge is significantly looser than recommended, your blanket may require more yarn.
Notes
Patt st:
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first dc, *dc in next sc, sc in next dc*, rep from * to * across, ending dc in last sc, turn.
Rep Row 1 for patt st.
d/s dec: double crochet/single crochet decrease (yo, insert hook in next sc, yo, draw up loop, yo, draw through first two loops on hook, insert hook in next dc, yo, draw up loop, yo draw through all loops on hook).
Changing Colors:
When changing colors in the middle of a row, the last "yo/draw through 2 loops" of the previous stitch is done in the new color. When changing colors between rows, the last "yo, draw through 2 loops" of the last stitch on the previous row is done in the new color.
The Pattern
Crayon (make 6 - one in each main color)
With crayon color, ch 27.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, *dc in next ch, sc in next ch,* rep from * to * across, ending dc in last ch, turn. (26 sts)
Rows 2-7: Begin patt st.
Rows 8-11: work patt stitch in charcoal.
Rows 12-14: work patt stitch in crayon color.
Rows 15-18: work patt stitch in charcoal.
Rows 19-37: work patt stitch in crayon color.
Continuing in patt st, begin oval (see chart)
Row 38: 11 sts in crayon color, 4 sts in charcoal, 11 sts in crayon color.
Row 39: 10 sts in crayon color, 6 sts in charcoal, 10 sts in crayon color.
Row 40: 9 sts in crayon color, 8 sts in charcoal, 9 sts in crayon color.
Row 41-42: 8 sts in crayon color, 10 sts in charcoal, 8 sts in crayon color.
Row 43-44: 7 sts in crayon color, 12 sts in charcoal, 7 sts in crayon color.
Row 45-47: 6 sts in crayon color, 14 sts in charcoal, 6 sts in crayon color.
Row 48-51: 5 sts in crayon color, 16 sts in charcoal, 5 sts in crayon color.
Row 52-72: 4 sts in crayon color, 18 sts in charcoal, 4 sts in crayon color.
Row 73-76: 5 sts in crayon color, 16 sts in charcoal, 5 sts in crayon color.
Row 77-79: 6 sts in crayon color, 14 sts in charcoal, 6 sts in crayon color.
Row 80-81: 7 sts in crayon color, 12 sts in charcoal, 7 sts in crayon color.
Row 82-83: 8 sts in crayon color, 10 sts in charcoal, 8 sts in crayon color.
Row 84: 9 sts in crayon color, 8 sts in charcoal, 9 sts in crayon color.
Row 85: 10 sts in crayon color, 6 sts in charcoal, 10 sts in crayon color.
Row 86: 11 sts in crayon color, 4 sts in charcoal, 11 sts in crayon color. (End of oval)
Rows 87-105: work patt st in crayon color.
Rows 106-109: work patt st in charcoal.
Rows 110-112: work patt st in crayon color.
Rows 113-116: work patt st in charcoal.
Rows 117-120: work patt st in crayon color.
Crayon Point
Row 121: Sl st in first 2 sts, ch 1 (for height), *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 8 more times, sc in next st, d/s dec over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn (last two stitches of previous row remain unworked). (21 sts excl ch sts and sl sts, which will not be worked in next row)
Row 122: Sc in first st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 7 more times, sc in next st, d/s dec over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (20 sts)
Row 123: Sc in first st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 7 more times, sc2tog over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (19 sts)
Row 124: Sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 6 more times, sc2tog over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (18 sts)
Row 125: Sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 5 more times, sc in next st, d/s dec over next two sts, dc in next st, ch1, turn. (17 sts)
Row 126: Sc in first st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 5 more times, sc in next st, d/s dec over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (16 sts)
Row 127: Sc in first st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 5 more times, sc2tog over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (15 sts)
Row 128: Sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 4 more times, sc2tog over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (14 sts)
Row 129: Sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 3 more times, sc in next st, d/s dec over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (13 sts)
Row 130: Sc in first st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 3 more times, sc in next st, d/s dec over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (12 sts)
Row 131: Sc in first st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 3 more times, sc2tog over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (11 sts)
Row 132: Sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 2 more times, sc2tog over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (10 sts)
Row 133: Sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 1 more time, sc in next st, d/s dec over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (9 sts)
Row 134: Sc in first st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 1 more time, sc in next st, d/s dec over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (8 sts)
Row 135: Sc in first st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 1 more time, sc2tog over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (7 sts)
Row 136: Sc in first st, dc in next st, sc in next st, dc in next st,, sc2tog over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (6 sts)
Fasten off. Securely weave in all ends.
Alphabet
Use light grey yarn. For each letter, sl sts are done in the back bumps of the ch sts. To fasten off, pull the tail through the last loop, and tie the start and end tails together.
A: Ch 19, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 3 sts, ch 4, sl st in second ch from hook, and in each of next 7 sts, ch 1, sl st in first ch from hook and in each of next 9 sts. Fasten off.
B: Ch 20, sl st in first ch from hook and in each of next 2 sts, ch 9, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 15 sts, ch 1, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 8 sts. Fasten off.
D: Ch 25, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 14 sts, ch 1, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 8 sts. Fasten off.
E: Ch 16, *sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 4 sts,* rep from * to * 1 more time, ch 5, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 7 sts, ch 6, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 4 sts. Fasten off.
G: Ch 24, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 19 sts, ch 1, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 2 sts. Fasten off.
L: Ch 17, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 4 sts, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 9 sts. Fasten off.
N: Ch 20, sl st in first ch from hook, ch 10, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 18 sts, ch 1, sl st in first ch from hook and in each of next 9 sts. Fasten off.
O: Ch 25, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 23 sts. Fasten off.
P: Ch 20, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 9 sts, ch 1, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 8 sts. Fasten off.
R: Ch 19, sl st in first ch from hook, sl st in next st, ch 5, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 12 sts, ch 1, sl st in second ch from hook and each of next 7 sts. Fasten off.
U: Ch 21, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 19 sts. Fasten off.
W: Ch 13, sl st in first ch from hook, ch 13, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 6 sts, ch 1, sl st in first ch from hook and in each of next 10 sts, ch 1, sl st in first ch from hook and in each of next 7 sts. Fasten off.
Y: Ch 11, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 5 sts, ch 6, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 9 sts. Fasten off.
Assembly
Using grey yarn, securely sew color names on each crayon, making sure the red, yellow and blue crayons have the points facing left, and the orange, green and purple crayons have the points facing right.
Don't worry if the color text ends up a bit wonky, it will simply resemble a child's writing.
Using small stitches and matching leftover yarn from the crayons, sew the crayon edges together in rainbow order (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple), making sure to line up the stripes and ovals.
Securely weave in all ends.
Peppermint Peekers
Author
by Vicki Peterson
Introduction
I created this pattern when a girl at work asked me for some "fingerless arm warmers." "What??" I said "are you nuts..." But I happily took down the colors she wanted and this is the pattern I came up with. The ribbing will stay nice and snug around your arm; the rest is just cool!
Materials List
- 4.5mm/7 hook
- Pink (MC) and red (CC) 4-ply yarn
- Yarn needle
- Stitch marker
Finished Size
Will fit teen to adult.
Gauge
Notes
The Pattern
Begin
Safari Sniffers
Author
by Melissa Mall
Introduction
I couldn’t resist designing a little something for Halloween. Then "a little something" turned into two little somethings, then three, and by the time I was finished, there were enough "little somethings" to populate a zoo! Brightly colored and whimsical, these little half-masks work up quickly with simple stitches. However, what with all of the shaping, the color changes, and the sewing of things together, I wouldn’t recommend these for the novice crocheter. Make one. Make two. Make the whole zoo!
Materials List
- S
mall amounts of various colors of Red Heart Super Saver yarn (colors indicated before individual patterns) - 4.25 mm (size G) crochet hook
- Yarn Needle
Finished Size
Gauge
Gauge is not significant in this pattern as long as it is consistent.
Notes
The Pattern
Crocodile Smile (pictured above)
Colors required: hunter green, white
Incognito Me
Author
by Kat Marie Williams
Introduction
I chose the title "Incognito Me" in imagining someone requesting to be costumed, and thought the "Me" part would charm the Ed. at Crochet me. Bootie-kisser I am, so long as it ends in fun. [Ed. note: I was charmed.]
The inspiration for the pattern came from the goodie bin at my son's pediatrician's office. He stuck in his thumb and pulled out a plum... no, wait... wrong story. He reached into the goodie bin and pulled out a flimsy set of Groucho Marx glasses. You know, those things with the plastic nose and moustache attached. I put them on and yelled at my son, "Hahhhh chachacha!" and then yelled, "AHA!", as I lightbulbed a crochet project from the experience. And people looked at me funny. And I thought, "Well, whatever. Look at me any way you want, but I get to make a super-dorky project, and y'all can't stop me." [Ed. note: I was also charmed by the use of "lightbulb" as a verb.]
Materials List
- Lion Brand Jiffy - 1 skein of Black, 1 skein of Camel, plus 1 skein of any brand and color of eyelash yarn
- 10.0mm (size N) crochet hook for hat & nose
- 6.5mm (size K) crochet hook for brows & moustache
Finished Size
Gauge
Gauge doesn't much matter, as the back of the hat can be adjusted with an added drawstring if necessary. The hat is large enough so that long hair can be stuffed up into it.
Notes
Mark the beginning of each round with a piece of scrap yarn or stitch marker.
Popcorn - 5 dc in st, drop lp from hook, insert hook in top of first dc of group, pull dropped lp through, ch 1.
The Pattern
Fairy Tales at Your Fingertips (Some Assembly Required)
Author
by Melissa Mall
Introduction
When I was young we had a set of little, simple finger puppets that my mom would pull out of her purse for us to play with when we had to sit still and be quiet. You know, at the doctor's office, at church, in the car... Now that I'm a mom, I decided that I wanted to make a set. I grew increasingly frustrated, however, with the absolute lack of good finger puppet patterns available. "Come on, people!" I thought. "How hard can it be to design such a little thing?" At which point I bonked myself on the forehead and pulled out some yarn.
I was right - it was easy.
These patterns are great for using up bits and pieces of yarn that are too big to just (gasp!) throw away, but too small to use for a larger project. (Can't even get a potholder out of it? No problem.) They're also a fantastic use for all of that yucky, stiff, worsted weight yarn you bought when you started crocheting and didn't know better -- of course, if you bought a lot of it, you're going to have to make a finger puppet army, aren't you? At any rate, the crocheting in this pattern is simple -- almost all single crochet, and so suitable for the beginner who is sick of granny squares and scarves, but hopefully interesting enough to make a fun diversion for the more experienced crafter. I know it was for me!
Materials List
- Yarn: No specifics here! Small amounts of various colors in 4-ply worsted weight. Clean out that closet! (I used Red Heart Super Saver.)
- US G-6 hook (4.25mm)
- A yarn needle
- A teeny amount of stuffing or fiberfill.
Finished Size
Gauge
12 sc x 16 rows = 4”x4”
Notes
US terminology used throughout:
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dec = decrease
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
lp = loop
rnd = round
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
st = stitch
All decreases in these patterns are worked by drawing up a loop from each of the next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops. Join the end of each round with a slip stitch to the first st in the round.
The Pattern
Dragon
What could be cooler t
Miss Pink & Mr Bajs
Author
by Linda Stoll, of Oslofia Stitching Away
Introduction
Please meet Miss Pink (the backpack) and Mr Bajs (the coin purse). I came up with the idea for these two designs at this year’s Midsummer party.
Celebrating Midsummer is an old Swedish tradition, and as always we celebrated the day with our friends and their families.
One of the kids at the party would talk of nothing else but Pee Pee and Poo Poo - all day long. I thought that it was quite funny at first, and being a mother to a 2-year-old daughter, I knew that it was a topic that would soon arise at our house as well. So I ended up designing the backpack Miss Pink, and the coin purse Mr Bajs, which are Swedish for Pee Pee and Poo Poo.
Miss Pink and Mr Bajs are both easy and fast projects to make, and can be completed in just a couple of evenings. They can also be made up as soft toys if you fill them with stuffing instead of making them up as the backpack and coin purse. I’m sure your little ones will love their new friends Miss Pink and Mr Bajs, as my daughter did when she got them.
Materials List
Finished Size
- Backpack: 20 x 24 cm (8” x 9.5 ”)
- Backpack strap: 4 x 40 cm ( 1.5 ” x 16”) – to fit a small child
- Coin purse: 9 cm ( 3.5 ”)
Gauge
20 sc x 22 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)
Notes
US pattern conventions used:
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
rep – repeat
dc – double crochet
The Pattern
Out to Lunch
Author
by Heather Leigh Cox
Introduction
A fresh take on brown bagging it to school or work! This bag works up quickly and easily and is fun to use. It’s made in pieces, which are then joined with sc seams that add a sporty look.
Materials List
Finished Size
12 ½ inches tall x 8 ½ inches wide x 4 inches deep
Gauge
20 rows and 17 stitches in single crochet = 4 inches (10 cm.)
Notes
US Pattern notations used
Ch = chain stitch
Sc = single crochet
St(s) = stitch (es)
Sl st = slip stitch
The Pattern
Jellybean
Author
by Marjorie Brigham
Introduction
Crochet this colorful coin purse for your favorite little miss! Bead crocheted purse and strap, made in one piece with tubular construction and beaded single crochet stitch.
Materials List
|
Bead Type |
Size |
Color |
# Needed |
|
Seed |
6/0 “E” |
Red, rainbow |
800 |
|
Seed |
6/0 “E” |
Red, mixed shades |
500 |
- Size 3/2 perle cotton yarn, 100yds
- Size D, E or F hook (or size that gives you the correct gauge)
- 1 beading needle
- One decorative button
Finished Size
4” X 4 ¼” with a 30” strap
Gauge
37 beads per sq. inch
70 inches yarn per sq. inch
Notes
US Pattern Notation Used
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
PM = place marker
Beaded chain: Draw bead up tight to work, make a chain
Beaded slip stitch (bss): Insert hook in st, slide a bead up close, yo and pull though st. and loop on hook.
Beaded single crochet (bsc):
Insert crochet hook into top of stitch in previous row, yarn over and draw loop through; slide the bead up to the stitch being worked, yarn over and draw loop through both stitches on hook so that the bead is anchored above the stitch of the previous row.
Front bead single crochet, aka Reverse Bead Single Crochet (fbsc): (Beads that you have crocheted in on the previous row will now be facing you.) Push bead up as close to the hook as you can get it, hold on to bead with your thumb, insert hook OVER thread and into sc, thread over, (keep holding the bead), pull through, thread over pull through the two loops on hook. Bead should be in the front. Keep thread tension a little tight so the bead, this will force the bead to stay in place.
The Pattern
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