Just in time for the holidays. Children LOVE this cute little reindeer hat.

Tan (warm brown), brown, white, black, red - 4 ply yarn (I used Red Heart Super Saver)
Size G hook
Darning Needle
Small amount of polyester batting

This will fit children from about 2-6 years.

?

Suitable for beginners- Single crochet

HAT -using tan
Rnd 1- Ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd ch (8 sc)
Rnd 2- Work 2 sc in each sc around (16 sc)
Rnd 3- *sc in next sc, 2sc in next sc, repeat from * around, (24 sc)

Gittle was inspired by the Dastardly Bear I completed from a Stitch-n-Bitch pattern. At first I thought stuffed animals were one of the most horrid things to do. I had almost resigned myself to sticking to hats, scarfs, shawls and purses. Than I started tinkering around with a brown scrap skein and the Puff Puff Puffin was born. Gittle was a bit of an homage to my friend and turtle lover Michelle. Gittle is also my inaugural free pattern for my blog! So - here goes nothing. If the directions are way skewed or something seems amiss email me and I will try and adjust it post haste.

Yarn: You can use any brand. I used generic acrylic scrap pieces from my own collection. The soft kind from the baby section works really well. The body is a sage green (color 1) and standard black (color 2). The head, tail and legs are a butter cream yellow with a touch of ruby red for eyes. I don't have numbers because the tags are long gone.

Quantity: I would have to estimate less than 6 oz of each would probably suffice.

Hook & Needle: Size 5 or F American hook and a yarn needle.

Stuffing: Enough to fill all the pieces. Possibly 1 oz. You can use cluster fill, polyester fill or go natural and organic.

Cluster fill is downy and feathery. It's also very loose and fluffy for stuffing. Will shed a little bit.

Polyester fill is stringing and stuck together. It does fill tightly and doesn't shed as much as cluster fill.

Organic or Natural. Rice, legumes or precooked popcorn. If going more natural the piece will need stitched very tightly with slip stitches instead of single crochets and possibly lined so the "stuffing" doesn't fall out.

Smaller than a football. It's a stuffed animal so the size isn't really an exact science.

(Not applicable.)

Please Note: The exact stitches I used or size hook isn't that instrumental as long as the stitches are increased evenly as noted. If they aren't done evenly it will look a bit oblong like an overstuffed sausage in places. The bigger the hook the larger apart the holes where stuffing could fall out. For an extremely tight piece slip stitch in place of the single crochets. I also did this entire piece by crocheting in the back loop only for a ribbed effect. If you want a more knobby look crochet through both stitches.

Overall Assembly: Stitch the legs, tail and head first. (All as separate pieces.) As you work on the body you will join the legs, tail and head pieces. The tail is attached with the piece correct side out. The legs are attached with the torso inside out. The head is attached last, after all the stuffing.

The Jargon:
sc = single crochet.
sc2tog (decrease) = single crochet two together. put hook in stitch, pull yarn through the stitch, leave loop on hook. put hook into next stitch. pull yarn through that stitch. 2 loops should be on the hook. yo, pull through both stitches.
2sc (increase) = 2 single crochets in same stitch.
hdc = half double crochet.
sts = stitches
sl sts = slip stitch
ch = chain

LEGS: CROCHET (Make 4)
Row 1: Ch 13, turn
R2-11: Ch 1, sc in next 10 stitches, turn (11 sts total)
R12: Ch 1, sl sts entire row. Tie off.
Leave 18 inch to 2 feet sewing length.

LEGS: ASSEMBLE-N-STUFF
Fold piece in half. Whip stitch narrow end and adjoining long end.
Fill with stuffing. Finish sewing last side. Tie off.
Sew in all loose ends and cut off excessive yarn. (Should look like a bean)

TAIL: CROCHET
Row 1: Ch 20, turn
R2: (Hdc in first stitch, sc in 2nd stitch, sl sts in 3rd stitch*) *repeat until end. Tie off yarn. (Remember to stitch piece tight and it will make a curly loop.)

HEAD: CROCHET
Row 1: Ch 15 stitches, sl sts to close ring
R2-5: Ch 1, sc 14 stitches, sl sts to close ring

This pattern was designed for an afghan to be donated to Project Linus, a charity that donates blankets to kids in hospitals. Project Linus requires that all blankets must be made using acrylic, but the pattern could be used for any yarn. The design was inspired by the granny square and the fact that Arizona is a warm climate. The open, airy feel of the stitch allows the blanket to be cuddly without being bulky.

Worsted weight acrylic:
MC—variegated pink and purple (approx 16 oz)
CC—solid pink (approx 16 oz)
Desired Hook Size
Check gauge for desired width and length

Based on individual piece. Pictured afghan approximately 50" by 60"

Check your gauge for desired width and length using hook of choice.

This patterns is designed to be a template, therefore, specific gauge is based on individual hook choice and intended size. The directions for the foundation chain are given in multiples so it can be crocheted to desired width.

Body:

Foundation Chain:
With MC, ch [multiple of 4 sts plus 3] for desired length.

My daughter Selma is in Peace Camp this week and she has a very
favorite counselor named Ariel who, I'm guessing, is about 15. She
wanted to give her a little present on the last day, so I quickly made
her this kerchief using some flag yarn I got from the Crochetville Sea of Yarn Swap.

1 oz. or less worsted weight yarn (I used some vintage Dupont Orlon I
snagged at Value Village, the orlon made the kerchif a bit heavy, it
would also be nice in a lighter-weight cotton, but I went with it
because I liked the color combination)
1 ball carrying weight novelty yarn--I used Red Heart Tiki in "Aruba".

Size H/5mm crochet hook

Yarn needle

About 10" across the widest part.

As the kerchief is crocheted to fit, gauge is not essential for this pattern.

Note, Main yarn and carrying yarn are held together throughout.

Instructions:

Chain 4, DC in 4th chain from hook. Chain 3, turn.

Spring can be chilly, so a wool cap ain't out of season. Worked up in oh-so-appropriate green yarn, this one is super simple, with a twist. Textured stitches are worked doubled, through first the back and then the front loop of the stitch. Totally nifty.

• MC: Patons Merino Wool-1 skein (3½ ounces/100 grams, 223 yards) -- I used approximately 1/3 skein. Color Deep Olive
• CC: Knit Picks Wool of the Andes (50 grams, 100 yards) -- I used approximately 20 yards. Color Avocado
• (One skein of each is enough to make at least two skull caps, with lots of leftovers from the Knit Picks -- perfect scrap yarn project)
• J (6.0 mm) hook
• I (5.5 mm) hook
• Tapestry needle

Fits an average sized head (about 21½” in circumference). To make smaller (for a child), skip Round 6. To make larger (about 23” in circumference), add another increase round after Round 6 and work Round 9 twice. For the well above average head, add two increase rounds after Round 6 and work Round 9 three times.

13 dc = 4" using J (6 mm) hook

Back Front Single Crochet (bfsc):  Insert hook in back loop of stitch and draw up a loop, insert hook in front loop of same stitch and draw up a loop (2 loops on hook), yo and draw through all three loops on hook.

We all know a little boy like my nephew: super smart, super cute, super active! What do you make for a boy who's always on the go? You can forget about hat and gloves - who has time to put them on before running to the swing? You can toss out blankets too: by the time you’re done, he’s in college. I knew it had to be quick to make (lest he grow again), easy to wash (it’s going to get filthy), and something he would actually wear (no granny squares for this boy). So, hopefully you’ll agree that this vest has it all for your and my boy on the go.

Special thanks to Kraemer Yarn Company for supplying the yarn for this project. Please take a minute to check them out; they are great yarn company that supports all fiber enthusiasts and is conveniently located close to my hometown in Pennsylvania.

• Summit Hill Yarn by Kraemer Yarns (100% Merino superwash wool, 230 yards [210 m] per 3.5 oz [100 g])
• Main Color (MC): Adventurine (Green), 2 (2, 2, 3) skeins
• Contrasting Color (CC): Peridot (Lime), 1 (1, 1, 1) skein
• US H/8 (5.00mm) hook
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends
• (1) 18”/46 cm (18”/46 cm, 22”/56 cm, 22”/56 cm) coil-separating sweater zipper
• Sewing thread to match the zipper
• Sewing needle

Sizes Small, (Medium, Large, X-Large) fit chest size 21” (23”, 25”, 27”). Approximately a US Child size 2 (4, 6, 8).

The pattern is written for size Small with changes for Medium, Large, and X-Large written in parentheses.

17 sts x 10 rows of alternating ltr and sc-flo rows = 4" (10 cm)

• Please watch gauge as you crochet. Vest should fit loosely over clothes.
• Keep in mind that if you choose to use normal treble and single crochet in this garment, there will be a significant difference in look and wearability. You will lose the neat textured pattern that the linked trebles create, and the stitches may snag more easily.
• Vest is worked in one piece up to the arm openings, then it is divided into 3 sections: 2 front panels and the back. The only seam is at the shoulder.
• Please note that this vest uses machine-washable yarn. I do not recommend using anything but machine-washable for your child on the go.

Special Stitches

Linked Treble (ltr) (see tutorial for more on how to make this stitch):

Set-up stitch:  Insert hook into the 2nd ch from hook, yo, draw up loop, insert hook into 3rd ch from hook, yo, draw up loop, insert hook into the 5th st from hook (note:  the top of the last st of the previous row does not count as a st), yo, draw up loop (4 loops on hook), yo, draw through 2 loops on hook, yo, draw through next 2 loops, yo, draw through last 2 loops (first stitch made).

Next stitch:  Insert hook into upper horizontal bar of previous stitch, yo, draw up loop, insert hook into lower horizontal bar, yo, draw up loop, insert hook into next ch, yo, draw up loop, (4 loops on hook), yo, draw through 2 loops on hook, yo, draw through next 2 loops, yo, draw through last 2 loops,

Linked Double Crochet (ldc):

Set-up stitch:  Insert hook into the 2nd ch from hook, yo, draw up loop, insert hook into the 4th ch from hook (note:  the top of the last st of the previous row does not count as a st), yo, draw up loop (3 loops on hook), yo, draw through 2 loops on hook, yo, draw through last 2 loops.

Next stitch:  Insert hook into horizontal bar of previous stitch, yo, draw up loop, insert hook into next ch, yo, draw up loop (3 loops on hook), yo, draw through 2 loops on hook, yo, draw through last 2 loops.

Body

With MC, ch 113 (129, 137, 155).

There is something about having a sweater with an enormous monogram on it. Even better is a giant letter in Old English script! In this pattern, I’ve paired an Old English font with a fun monogram sweater to bring you Ye Olde Letter Sweater. You will have to do a little math to create your custom pattern and a chart of your sweater before you begin stitching.

This is a very easy drop shoulder pattern that requires only basic stitch knowledge and color change skills to complete. If you want to jazz it up a bit, use front post and back post stitches to create the monogram in relief. Try varying yarn weight and hook size and placement of the monogram for a different look. Create a striped background and do your monogram in a third color. Finish the neckline and sleeves with a picot stitch or shells for a more feminine version. Or, use the method described below and design your own graphic to stitch on your sweater!

• "A" Sweater:
• 3 skeins Red Heart Super Saver in Aran Fleck 4313 (96% acrylic, 4% other fibers; 5 oz/142 g; 260 yds/237 m)
• 1 skein Red Heart Super Saver in Coffee 0365 (100% acrylic; 7 oz/198 g; 364 yds/333 m)
• "P" Sweater:
• 2 skeins Caron Simply Soft Brites! In Berry Blue 9609 (100% acrylic; 6 oz/170 g; 315 yds/288 m)
• 1 skein Caron Simply Soft Brites@ in Mango 2605 (100% acrylic; 3 oz/85 g; 157 yds/144 m)
• An appropriately sized crochet hook
• Graph paper
• Calculator

Custom.

Make a 4" x 4" (10cm x 10cm) gauge swatch then divide to find your 1” (2.54 cm) gauge.

This pattern is written for custom sizing, in a worksheet format. You can print out a copy and fill in the blanks (_____) as you go. 

**Be sure to read these carefully before beginning to measure and crochet!**

If you use the men's size chart from yarnstandards.com, note that for the length, the back hip length is given. You will not need to add anything if you decide on a hip length sweater. If you decide to make a tunic-length sweater, you will need to add 4” to the back hip length given in the chart.

If the sweater recipient is larger around the middle, take a waist or hip measurement. Use whichever measurement is the larger of the waist/hip measurement or the cross back length measurement when making your chart.

The size of the armholes will be equal to the head circumference. If an adjustment needs to be made for larger arms, measure the biceps of the sweater recipient and add 7-8 inches, whichever is most comfortable.

Be sure to carefully read the fit and measurement descriptions before you begin. Double check your math and chart before you start!

Special Stitches

Hdc2tog (half-double crochet two together [decrease]): [Yo, insert hook into next stitch, draw up a loop] twice, yo, draw through all 5 loops on hook.

Fphdc (Front-post half-double crochet):  Work a half-double crochet around post of hdc of previous row from front as follows: Yo, insert hook into space before next hdc from front, wrap hook around post of the st, yo, draw loop through, yo, draw through all 3 loops on hook.

Bphdc (Back-post half-double crochet):  Work a half-double crochet around post of hdc of previous row from back as follows: Yo, insert hook into space before next hdc from back, wrap hook around post of the st, yo, draw loop through, yo, draw through all 3 loops on hook.

I love the moon and the stars. Any time we’re out after dark (and it’s dark enough to see them – darn you, light pollution) I love to stop and identify constellations, planets, the current phase of the moon, or whatever else is there to see. My husband is very tolerant of this. At any rate, I was in the middle of making scads of things for my new baby when I realized that I had a few celestial-themed pieces for him, and wouldn’t a little crescent moon and star just go perfectly with them? Of course they would.

So here they are, simply crocheted in a pleasingly soft baby yarn. For those looking for something a little different, the pattern could be worked in worsted weight yarn for something a little larger, or you could work the star in a larger hook for a softer fabric and enlarge it to make a cute star-shaped afghan. I hope you enjoy them!

• Red Heart Soft Baby (575 yd/525 m per 7 oz/198 g skein) in Powder Yellow; approx. 1 ¾ oz/132 yds/121 m for Star, approx. 2 oz/165 yds/151 m for Moon
• F/5 hook (3.75mm)
• Stuffing
• Stitch markers
• Yarn needle

Star – 7.5"/19 cm tall
Moon – 10.5"/27 cm tall

Gauge is unimportant in this pattern.

Special Stitches

sc3tog = Draw up a loop through each of the next three stitches. Yarn over, and pull through all four loops on hook.

Star (make 2)

Note: Do not join rounds unless indicated. To help keep track of rounds, place a stitch marker in the first stitch of the round to mark the beginning of the round.

Photo: Laura Kudritzki, Muse Studios

This v-neck, cap-sleeved, raglan t-shirt is crocheted in the round from the top-down. It’s seamless, and the top-down construction allows you to try it on as you go. The sweater is designed to be fitted and has a small amount of negative ease, therefore finished measurements should be exactly, or slightly less than your actual measurements. This is a template, not a pattern, and it allows you freedom as far as gauge and stitch pattern go. For more about how this sweater is constructed, check out the article about it. And to connect with other crocheters who are making it, join the crochet-along.

• Enough yarn for your sweater. Here's what we used in these samples:
• Julie's Version: Be Sweet Boucle Mohair (100% mohair; 120yds per 50g ball), 3 balls in Wheat
• Andi's Version: Crystal Palace Yarns Meringue (40% Merino Wool, 40% acrylic, 20% elastic nylon fibers; 123 yards/114 meters per 50g ball), 10 balls in Vine Green
• Crochet hook:
• Julie's Version: 6.0mm (US J) hook for neckline, 5.5mm (US I) hook for bust and hemline, 5.0mm (US H) hook for waist
• Andi's Version: 4.0mm (US G) hook
• Scissors
• Yarn needle to weave in ends.

Amy's Version

Custom fit

Variable

Special Stitches:

FPdc – Front post double crochet
BPdc – Back post double crochet

Pattern Template 

Gauge

An adequate gauge swatch is essential in this pattern—row gauge is actually not important, because the sweater grows from the top-down, but stitch gauge is. So create a swatch that’s at least 6 inches wide and 3 inches tall. When you’re swatching, you may want to try various needle sizes and stitch patterns to get a fabric that you like. Take your time. Most of the design process happens here. If you’re using a fuzzy yarn, I would recommend a simple stitch pattern—I think hdc works great. And don’t be afraid to use a needle larger than recommended because we want a flexible, not stiff fabric.

Measure your gauge. Make note of it here:

_____________ sts per in/cm.

Andi's Version

Setup

Measure the back of your neck. Multiply this measurement by your gauge: ________ (A)

Divide the number above by 3: ______  (B) Multiply B by 2: ______  (C) (here we’re determining the number of stitches to chain for the sleeves.)

Add C + A: ________ (D)

Add D + 6:  ________ (E) (The six stitches we added form the four raglan “seams” plus two stitches for the front of the sweater. E is the required number of stitches needed to begin your sweater, you’ll need to adjust this number, adding the required number stitches for the “turning chain.”)

Instructions

(Replace the letters with the numbers you got in your calculations.)

Neck Shaping

Using the yarn and hook you’ve selected, chain E.  Place markers at the seam stitches so you’ll know where to increase in the first row. Skip the first stitch, place a marker at the 2nd stitch, skip B stitches, place a marker at the next stitch, skip A stitches, place a marker at the next stitch, skip B stitches, you should be right before the second to last stitch. Place a marker in the second to last stitch - 4 markers placed.

Note: I used double crochet in the template as an example, but you should feel free to use any stitch or stitch pattern.

Deneen's Version

Row 1:  Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in 4th ch from hk, 3 dc in next st (where marker was placed), dc in each st to 2nd marker, 3 dc in marker st, dc in each st to 3rd marker, 3 dc in marker st, dc in each st to 4th marker, 3 dc in marker st, 2 dc in final st - 10 sts added.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), turn, dc in same st as t-ch, *dc in each st to next 3-dc shell, dc in 1st st of shell, 3 dc in 2nd st of shell, dc in 3rd st of shell, * rep from * to * across until 4 dc shells have been worked, dc in each st to last st, 2 dc in last st (top ch of t-ch) - 10 sts added.

Rep Row 2, until the number of stitches at the back is equal to the number of stitches for the two fronts when added together (plus or minus one stitch is ok). In my model, this took a total of 5 rows.

At the end of the final neck shaping row, ch 1, sl st to join to beg of round to form center V.  From now on you will be working in continuous (spiraling) rounds. The center point of the V marks beg/end of each round.

Continuing Raglan Increases

Julie's Version

Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), sk 1st st, *dc in each st to next 3-dc shell, dc in 1st st of shell, 3 dc in 2nd st of shell, dc in 3rd st of shell, * rep from * to * around until 4 dc shells have been worked, dc in each st to end of the round. Do not join. - 8 sts added.

Rnd 2: *Dc in each st to next 3-dc shell, dc in 1st st of shell, 3 dc in 2nd st of shell, dc in 3rd st of shell, * rep from * to * around until 4 dc shells have been worked, dc in each st to end of round. Do not join - 8 sts added.

Continue as in Rnd 2, adding 8 stitches per round until you can comfortably wrap the sleeve cap around the widest part of your arm. (Make sure you stop to try the top on every few rounds.)

Forming the Sleeves

Next Rnd: *Dc in each st to next 3-dc shell, dc in 1st st of shell, 3 dc in 2nd st of shell, dc in 3rd st of shell, ch 2, sk all sts up to next 3-dc shell, dc in 1st st of shell, 3 dc in 2nd st of shell, dc in 3rd st of shell, * rep from * to * once, dc in each st to end of round.  Do not join - cap-sleeves formed.

Bodice

Rnd 1: Dc in each st of the round.

Rnd 2: Dc in each st to 1st underarm, dc2tog twice, dc in each st to 2nd underarm, dc2tog twice, dc in each st to end of round.

Rep Rnd 1 of Bodice until sweater falls just above your hip (or reaches the length you’d like before the ribbing. If you wish, you can change to a smaller hook size just after the sweater falls below the bust to add some shaping.)

Ribbing

Rnd 1:  *FPdc in the first st, BPdc in next st, * rep from * to * around to create ribbing. Do not join.

Rnd 2: Rep Rnd 1 of Ribbing, working FPdc around FPdc sts and BPdc around BPdc sts until you have 2 inches of ribbing (or the length you desire).

Fasten off.

Sleeve Edging

With smaller hook, join yarn at 1st underarm and work 3 rounds of FPdc/BPdc ribbing around cap sleeve. Sl st in next st. Fasten off. Repeat for 2nd sleeve. (Note: if you’d like longer sleeves, you can work plain dc rows before beginning the ribbing.)

Neck Edging

With smaller hook and RS facing, join yarn at the center back of the neck opening, work 1 round of sc around neck opening, sl st in first sc to join.  Fasten off.

Weave in all ends.

The simple shell-stitch is one of my favorite crochet designs. The combination of dc and sc, plus a few slip-stitches here and there, make it the perfect next step for a beginner who wants something more elegant and interesting than your basic sc or dc rounds, but doesn’t have the skills or confidence yet to tackle a more elaborate pattern. Not only that, but shell-stitch certainly is not lost on the more advanced hooker: it provides a fast-finished, low-concentration alternative to the more pithy patterns available, and still turns out a really pleasing finished product. That is why, when I was busy turning out caps to sell at the Relay for Life, I turned to Google in search of a pretty shell-stitch hat. Surprisingly, I couldn’t find one, so I set forth to make my own. My goal was to create a fast hat pattern that was made of soft yarn with no seams, so I chose a simple worsted kitchen cotton and a large hook. I was so delighted with the finished results, I began experimenting with other yarns and slight alterations in the pattern and came up with two very satisfactory designs: a warm/cool-weather style and a cold-weather style.

Belliveau Cove (white):

• Brown Sheep Company, Lamb’s Pride Bulky (100% wool; 125 yds / per 4 oz.), Color M10, 1 skein
• US size K / 6.50mm hook
• Yarn needle

Gulf Shores (blue):

• Lily, Sugar and Cream (100% cotton; 125 yds / per 4 oz.), Color Delft Blue, 1 skein
• US size J / 6.00mm hook
• Yarn needle

Approx. 23" circumference.

Belliveau Cove: 12 sts x 5 1/3 rounds of dc = 4" (10 cm)

Gulf Shores: 16 sts x 8 rounds of dc = 4" (10 cm)