This is my amazing morphing hat/cowl/head band. Wear it how you like it, it's totally versatile, and such a simple pattern.
The cord allows it to be closed to wear like a hat, or loosen it and wear with your hair out the back - the cord gives it a nice detail. Alternatively slip it right over your head and keep you neck warm.

This is a work in progress at the mo, the pattern is complete but more sizing/gauge info is to follow so bear with me, thanks

Any yarn you like and corresponding size hook.
I used approx 120m of aran/worsted weight yarn and a 5mm hook for the main body and 30m of DK yarn with a 5mm and 4mm hook for the tie cord.

TBC

TBC

You can pretty much adjust this for any size you like by adding/subtracting rows and the number of stitches in the row.

All hdc are worked in BLO. Skip the first hdc of each row and work last hdc of row in turning chain of previous row.

with aran weight yarn and 5mm hook Ch 42
Row 1: hdc in 3rd chain from hook and in each chain across, turn
Row 2: ch 2 hdc in next hdc, ch1, skip next hdc,(this forms a hole) hdc in each hdc across.
Rows 3-44 repeat rows 1&2 ending on row 2.
The number of rows can be increased as required, but make sure there are an even number of holes along the top edge.
Fold in half with RS facing, sl st through back loop of each hdc in last row and correspondingfoundation chain of last row to close.
Turn the right way round.

For the cord:

with dk weight yarn and 5mm hook, ch 80
Row 1: change to 4mm hook. sl st in 2nd ch from hook. Sl st in each chain across. End off and thread through holes in main body of hat/thing.
All thats left is to enjoy finding new ways to wear it!

This is a very soft baby yarn.

Hook sizes F/5-3.75

size is (s)

4 inches long/3 inches tall

Every baby should have a version of this highly customizable kimono wrap in his or her wardrobe. Make it in a camouflage varigated yarn or make a very girly version in pink with a picot or shell edging and a flower appliqué. Anything you can think of!
This kimono wrap is worked in one piece from the neck down in hdc. Gauge of example (12 months size) is 14 hdc / cm. However, if you follow the measurements given throughout the pattern any gauge and stitch can be used.

The example kimono wrap was made using

- a 4,5 mm hook (US 7)
- a 4 mm hook (US 6) for the ties
- 2.5 skein of Wibra Iris yarn (100% acrylic, 125 m / 50 g)
- a small amount of orange yarn of the edging in similar weight and material as the main yarn used.

Baby Sizes: approx. 6 months ( 12 months, 18 months)

My daughter Rosalinde (at the moment of this writing about 8,5 months old) is wearing the 12 month size in the picture fully closed. As you can see it is still rather big on her. But, better too big then too small!

Gauge of example (12 months size) is 14 hdc / 10 cm (4 "). However, if you follow the measurements given throughout the pattern any gauge and stitch can be used.

- hdc-inc = 3 hdc in 1 stitch
- hdc-dec = decreasing 1 hdc over next 2 stitches as follows: [yo, insert hook in next st, yo, draw lp through] twice, yo, draw through all 5 lps on hook.

Body of kimono wrap

1. Start with a hdc foundation row consisting off 29 (33, 37) hdc ( 20,7 , 23,5 , 26,4 cm)

2. Ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in first stitch, hdc-inc in next stitch, 1 hdc in each of the next 7 (8, 9) stitches, hdc-inc, 1 hdc in each of the next 9 (11, 13) stitches, hdc-inc, 1 hdc in each of the next 7 (8, 9) stitches, hdc-inc, 2 hdc in last stitch.

3. Ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in first stitch, hdc in each stitch, with hdc-inc in the middle of each hdc-inc of the previous row. End with 2 hdc in last stitch.

Repeat 3. till the length between the second and third hdc-inc (measured from the middle hdc of the hdc-inc to the other middle hdc) is 23,5 cm (27,5 cm, 30 cm)

4. In this row the armhole will be closed. Ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in first stitch, hdc in each stitch until the next hdc-inc, then * hdc in the first 2 stitches of the hdc-inc of the previous row. Skip the next length of hdc's and hdc directly into the middle hdc of the hdc-inc of the previous row *. Hdc across until next hdc-inc, then repeat from * to *. Hdc across till end of row and end with 2 hdc in last stitch.

5. Ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in first stitch, hdc in each stitch across, end with 2 hdc in last stitch.

Repeat 5. till the diagonal parts of the left and right front panel are each only 2 stitches away from being the same width as the back panel of the kimono wrap. (With the left front panel the panel is meant that is on the left in the picture above.)

6. Ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in first stitch, hdc in each stitch across until the left front panel is reached. Then hdc in next stitch, ch 1, skip 1 stitch and continue with hdc across , end with 2 hdc in last stitch.

7. Ch 1, turn, hdc across.

Repeat 7. till the kimono wrap measures approx. 24 cm (26,5 cm, 29 cm) from shoulder till bottom hem.

Edging

With right side facing, ch 1, sc up front opening until you reach the lower corner of the diagonal. Without ending off, make a chain about 25 cm long (in my case 45 chains). Switch to the smaller hook and slip stitch back along the chain. When you reach the corner of the diagonal again, switch to bigger hook and sc to corner. (Tie made).
Then continue to sc around neckline and down other front opening until you reach the lower corner of the diagonal, make tie with the same amount of chains used before. Then continue with sc around, 3 sc in corner stitch, sc around hemline, 3 sc in other corner stitch and join with a slip stitch. Fasten off.

Also make 2 separate ties and sew these firmly on the sides (where the side seam would be if there was one) on the same height as the other 2 ties are.

You can of course use buttons instead of ties although in my opinion the ties have the advantage that they can be adjusted so the wrap will fit longer. Buttonholes can be made by skipping the appropriate amount of chains when making the edging. For a sturdier finish do another round of sc along hemline and opening. Make the last round of edging with the right side facing.

Sleeves

1. With right side facing, attach yarn at bottom of armhole, ch 2. Hdc around and join with a slip stitch in the top of the ch 2.

2. Ch 2, turn, hdc around and join with a slip stitch in the top of the ch 2.

3. Ch 2, turn, hdc-dec, hdc around until last 2 stitches, hdc-dec and join with a slip stitch in the top of the ch 2.

Repeat 2. and 3. until the width of the sleeve measures approx. 8 cm (9 cm, 10 cm).
Then repeat 2. until the sleeve measures 15 cm (17 cm, 19 cm) in length.

When doing an edging in contrasting yarn, finish off. Join yarn in new color with right side facing, ch 1 and sc around. Join with a slip stitch in the top of the ch 1. Finish of and weave in ends.
Repeat with other sleeve.

I managed to whipped up this little Santa hat very quickly and I'm really happy with the results. The pattern is very simple and can be adjusted to fit the size of any baby's head (perhaps even make one up for yourself!)

To adjust the size of the hat either work a few extra increase rows in red to make it larger or work fewer increase rows to make it smaller. When you get to the white rows be sure to do one row of increase and then continue to work the remaining 6 single crochet rows.

4.5mm hook
Red double knit wool (worsted weight)
White double knit wool (worsted weight)
Scissors
Cardboard (to make the pompom)
Yarn needle

0-3 months old

*will provide a gauge later*

This pattern is written in American notation so 1 sc (American) = 1 dc (British)

Work this hat in a continuous spiral from start to finish.

With red wool:

ch 2, 6 sc into 2nd ch from hook (continue to work in a spiral)

Row 1: *1 sc, 2 sc into next sc* x 3 (9 sc)
Row 2: *2 sc, 2 sc into next sc* x 3 (12 sc)
Row 3: *3 sc, 2 sc into next sc* x 3 (15 sc)
Row 4: *4 sc, 2 sc into next sc* x 3 (18 sc)
Row 5: *5 sc, 2 sc into next sc* x 3 (21 sc)
Row 6: *6 sc, 2 sc into next sc* x 3 (24 sc)
Row 7: *7 sc, 2 sc into next sc* x 3 (27 sc)
Row 8: *8 sc, 2 sc into next sc* x 3 (30 sc)
Row 9: *9 sc, 2 sc into next sc* x 3 (33 sc)
Row 10: *10 sc, 2 sc into next sc* x 3 (36 sc)
Row 11: *11 sc, 2 sc into next sc* x 3 (39 sc)
Row 12: *12 sc, 2 sc into next sc* x 3 (42 sc)
Row 13: *13 sc, 2 sc into next sc* x 3 (45 sc)
Row 14: *14 sc, 2 sc into next sc* x 3 (48 sc)
Row 15: *15 sc, 2 sc into next sc* x 3 (51 sc)
Row 16: *16 sc, 2 sc into next sc* x 3 (54 sc)
Row 17: *17 sc, 2 sc into next sc* x 3 (57 sc)
Row 18: *18 sc, 2 sc into next sc* x 3 (60 sc)
Row 19: *19 sc, 2 sc into next sc* x 3 (63 sc)
Row 20-27: sc around

With white wool:

Row 28: *20 sc, 2 sc into next sc* x 3 (66 sc)
Row 29-34: sc around

Finish off

Fold over the white rows to make the white cuff

Make a small white pompom and attach it to the top of the hat.

Done!

I named this pattern after my grandmother because, back when my grandmother was teaching me to crochet, this was the first pattern she taught me (and if a fumble-fingered 11 year old can learn to make this pattern, anyone can!). Someone taught it to her when she was first learning how to crochet. But in spite of how long it has been around, nobody wrote it down until now. I wanted to share the pattern, but do it in a way that recognizes that I am just the most recent link in a long chain of women who have been making and sharing this pattern.

• about 1 ounce of Worsted or Aran weight yarn
• H (5.5mm) hook (Using I (6mm) hook will make slightly larger bootie)
• large-eyed yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
• length of 3/16 or 1/4 inch wide ribbon for tie

Fits newborn - 8 mos. (Using I (6mm) hook will make slightly larger bootie)
Finished Length (sole of foot) = 3.5 - 3.75 inches
Finished Height (sole to top cuff) = about 4 -4.5 inches

10 stitches and 7 rows = 4 inches in half double crochet (hdc)

This adorable, easy-to-make baby bootie is made in half double crochet; a dense stitch that helps to insulate baby’s feet, making this bootie perfect for winter babies or babies who live in chilly climates. The pattern is quick and simple to make, and the finished product is both cute and practical. This is a project that is very suitable for beginners.

Stitches used in this pattern:

1. Chain stitch (ch)
2. Half double crochet (hdc)
3. Slip stitch (sl st)
4. Double crochet (dc) (if using alternate ruffle edging)
5. Single crochet (sc) (if using alternate ruffle or contrast edging)

Direct Download a Free PDF of this Pattern at:

• http://sweetbird.awardspace.com/BabyBooties.pdf
• http://www.box.net/shared/vn4skttrnb (alternate site)

Directions are given in American English.

This pattern is free for people to make, use, and distribute. However, it may not be used for commercial purposes.

I have a niece that just turned 6 months. I have so far crocheted 3 dresses for her of different styles but now I thought it was time to come up with a pattern of my own. It is not difficult at all, and I'm sure there are others who have come up with the same pattern themselves, but since I haven't seen it posted somewhere I thought I might as well share it here. When the dress/skirt was almost finished I started looking for buttons, but I couldn't find any. I used my imagination and took two buttons of the same size although they had different colors and then I used a glittery yarn to crochet over the buttons and they actually look kind of cool, like insect eyes or something.

hook size 3,5

I used 3 balls of Marks & Kattens organic cotton. 50g / 120 meters (1,8 oz /131 yards). 2 brown (A) and 1 pink (B).

1 ball of red metal yarn (C)

2 buttons 2 centimeters diameter (0,8 inches)

you can easily adjust the size by increasing chain to begin with and then add rounds to make it longer. If you follow the pattern with the same yarn I used (or the same kind!) the brace skirt will fit babies 6-9 months.

14-15 hdc (width) and 12 hdc + 4cs rows (height) = 10 cm (4")

It is not that important though!

In edging: hold B and C together and sc round all edges except for immediately under the arm. Instead, leave long piece of C and when fastening C embroider it round the edge there. It's hard for me to explain but I think you'll understand when you get there. The pink slip stitch is on one side and the edging would be too thick otherwise.

ch - chain
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
st -stitch
sl st - slip stitch
ch col - change color
hdc2tog - half double crochet two stitches together (just decrease two hdc into one)

Front

Ch 75 (or as many as you want) with color A

1. Sc in second from hook. (74)
2. Ch 3. Turn. Hdc in next st, ch 1 *hdc in second from hook, ch 1* repeat from *-* across. If you look at the row you just made there should be a hdc in every other st.
3 -5. Repeat 2.

6. Ch col to B, ch 1, turn, sc in next st, *ch 1, sc in second from hook,* repeat from *-* across. It is the same as 2-5 only you do sc instead of hdc, so it is still in every other gap.
7. Repeat.

8-11. Ch col to A. Repeat row 2.

12-13. Repeat row 6.

Continue until you reach desired length of the skirt (it should reach up to the babys belly button or a little higher). If you like you can start with a wider chain and then decrease 2 st occasionally. My brace skirt has 36 rounds and is a pretty good length for the half-year-old. That means 6 A color sections and 5 B color sections.

37. Ch col to B, sl st 7 (2 in every "gap"). *ch 1, sc in second from hook,* repeat from *-* until there are 4 gaps left, then sl st 7 and cut yarn.

38. In 5th gap from edge, sl st with B, ch 1, sc 1 in same st. *ch 1, sc in second from hook,* repeat from *-* until 5 gaps remains. (25 or 26 sc)

39. Ch col to A. Ch 3, turn. *hdc in second from hook, ch 1* repeat from *-* across

40-42. Hdc2tog on each side, otherwise as 39.

43-44. Ch col to B, ch 1, turn, sc in next st, *ch 1, sc in second from hook,* repeat from *-* across. NO DECREASE

45-46. Ch col. Repeat round 40.

47 -48. Ch 3. Turn. Hdc in next st, ch 1 *hdc in second from hook, ch 1* repeat from *-* across.

49-50. Repeat 43-44.

51-54. Repeat 47-48. Fasten off.

Back

Chain 85, or as many as you like. I like the back to be a little wider than the front but if you don't that's ok!

1-37. Follow pattern for front.

38. In 14th gap sl st, ch 1, sc in same st, *ch 1 sc in next gap* repeat *-* 11 times until you have 13 sc.

39-42. Ch col to A. Ch 3, turn. *hdc in second from hook, ch 1* repeat from *-* across

43-44. Ch col to B, ch 1, turn, sc in next st, *ch 1, sc in second from hook,* repeat from *-* across.

45-48. Repeat 39-42.

49-50.Repeat 43-44.

51-54.Repeat 39-42.

55-56.Repeat 43-44.

57. Ch col to A. Ch 3, turn. *hdc in second from hook, ch 1* repeat from *-* until you have 6 hdc.

58-60. Ch 3, turn. *hdc in second from hook, ch 1* repeat from *-* until you have 6 hdc.

60-61. Ch col to B. ch 1, turn, sc in next st, *ch 1, sc in second from hook,* repeat from *-* across.

63-85. Repeat 57-62.

86. Ch col to A.Ch 3, turn. *hdc in second from hook, ch 1* repeat from *-* until you have 6 hdc.

87. Ch 3, hdc in next gap, ch 3, skip 2 gaps (this is the hole for the button) hdc, ch 1, hdc

88. Ch 3, hdc in next gap, *hdc in "button gap" ch 1* twice, hdc, ch 1 hdc

89. Ch 3, Hdc2tog on each side

90. Ch 3, hdc2tog. Fasten off.

Back to row 56. Repeat 57-90 on other side.

Edging

Take one strand of B and one strand of C. Sc around edges. Also: see notes!

Buttons

Do not join rounds, work in a spiral!
Ch 2 with C.
1. 6 sc in second from hook to make a ring or use a magic ring. (6)
2. 2 dc in every st. (12)
3. 1 sc, 2 sc in next (18)
4. sc in every st (18)
5. 1 sc, sc2tog (12)
Time to put the button in place!
6. 2sctog until you have 3-4 st left. Fasten off.

Assembling

Put the front and back with right side inwards (just decide youself which side that is or look at the sl st from row 37). Either crochet the dress together with sc or sew it together with a strand or color A.

Sew buttons in place.

Well, that's pretty much it! If there are any problems, tell me and I'll try to explain...

This hat began as a doodle during my travels up to Vermont to see my folks. I was playing with my favorite old doily pattern - The Plate Doily, from 1917. As the doodle grew, it was feeling really nice in my hands; a good floppy drape, but sturdy.
It grew throughout the weekend. At a concert a friend asked what I was making. I said I don't know, probably a hat! I decided to put a brim on it when I got home, and Voila! a sun hat!

E - 3.5mm hook
less that 200 yards fingering weight cotton thread (I used Numei cotton breeze, color: shell)
yarn needle

hat measures 7 inches, 18 cm wide at top, 3 inches,7.5 cm high for the side, and the brim is 2 inches, 5 cm wide. My head is 22 inches, 56 cm around and it fits me well, a little on the snug side so it stays on in the wind, but does not leave it's mark on my forehead when I take it off!!

6 sc per inch, 6 sc per 2.5 cm

The reason I love The Plate Doily Pattern is that you really get into a rhythm once you get to know it. It progresses with a very simple logic that is easy to follow.

The pattern is worked in two parts.

Part one - increase one sc between each ch3 loop for each round
Part two - decrease one sc between loops and increase 1 ch3 loop per round

The pattern is worked in the round with no joining or turning.

Now you know the basic logic behind the pattern and you are free to play with it as you like!

Okay! My work is done.

Ha! Ha! Just kidding!

Below is a full round by round write up of my sun hat!

worked in the round with no joining or turning
mark the first stitch of each round to keep track of rounds

Top of hat

note -
You can adjust the width of the hat by adding or subtracting rounds before round 11.
Continue the pattern of increase if you add rounds.

1. 8 sc in magic ring, or work 8 sc in a loop made of ch3 joined with a slip stitch if you must!
2. 2sc in each sc around
3. (sc, sk 1 sc, ch1) repeat around
4. (2sc in next sc, skip ch1 loop, ch2) repeat around
note - always skip the ch loop unless otherwise stated
5. (sc in next 3 sc, ch2) repeat around
6. (sc in next 4 sc, ch2) repeat around
7. (sc in next 5 sc, ch3*) repeat around *note loops are ch3
8. (sc in next 6 sc, ch3) repeat around
9. (sc in next 7 sc, ch3) repeat around
10. (sc in next 8 sc, ch3) repeat around
11. repeat round 10
12. (sc in next 7 sc, ch3, sc in next ch3 loop)* repeat around
*note sc in next ch 3 loop means place the sc around the ch3, not in any one stitch
13. (sc in next 6 sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 loop)2x ) repeat around
14. (sc in next 5 sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 loop)3x ) repeat around
15. (sc in next 4 sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 loop)4x ) repeat around
16. (sc in next 3 sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 loop)5x ) repeat around
17. (sc in next 2 sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 loop)6x ) repeat around
18. (sc in next 1 sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 loop)7x ) repeat around
19. (sc in next ch3 loop, ch3) repeat around
20. (sc in next ch3 loop, ch2*) repeat around *note loops are ch2
21. (sc in next ch2 loop, ch1*) repeat around *note loops are ch1

Side of hat

note -
You can adjust the height of the hat by adding or subtracting rounds in this part.

22-25. ((sc in next ch1 loop, ch1)x7), ch3 repeat around
26-30 ((sc in next ch1 loop, ch1)x5), (ch3, skip 1 ch1 loop, sc in next ch1 loop)x2) repeat around

Brim of hat

note -
If you prefer a less ruffly brim, make fewer stitches in round 32
ie (2sc in next sc, sc in next 2 or 3 sc) instead

31. sc in each sc and ch1 loop around
32. (2sc in next sc, sc in next sc) repeat around
33. sc around
34. (2sc in next sc, sc in next 5sc) repeat around
35. sc around
36. (sc in next sc, skip next 2 sc, ch3) repeat around
37. repeat round 35

I hope the directions are clear and that you have fun with this pattern!

I designed this little newborn hat in a few days as one of the hats I’ll be donating to the current Save the Children appeal. The pattern that was provided by Woman’s Weekly gave me real trouble so I thought it would be a nice idea if I tried my hand at designing a couple of easier hats for people to make.

Details about the Knit one Save on campaign can be found here: www.savethechildren.org.uk/en/5072.htm

50g of dk yarn in the main colour (approx)
Short length of dk yarn in the contrast colour
Size 4.5mm crochet hook
Tapestry needle (for sewing in loose ends)

Newborn, 0-3 months

Still need to check this...

All rounds are joined with a sl st to the last stitch/top of chain from the beginning of that round.

This pattern uses American crochet terms. The following abbreviations used are:

ch - chain
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
sl st - slip stitch
tog - together (decreasing)

Using the main colour work:

Row 1: Ch 3, join with a sl st to form a circle, 6 sc into circle, join with a sl st to first sc (6 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each sc, join with sl st to 2nd ch (12 sc)

Row 3: Ch 2, *2 dc in next sc, 1 dc* x5, 2 dc in last sc, join with sl st to 2nd ch (18 dc)

Row 4: Ch 2, *2 dc in next dc, 2 dc* x5, 2 dc in next dc, dc in last dc, join with sl st to 2nd ch (24 dc)

Row 5: Ch 2, *2 dc in next dc, 1 dc* repeat until 1 dc left, 2 dc in last dc, join with sl st to 2nd ch (36 dc)

Row 6: Ch 2, *2 dc in next dc, 1 dc* repeat until 1 dc left, 2 dc in last dc, join with sl st to 2nd ch (54 dc)

Rows 7-12: Ch 2, dc in same joining sl st, *miss 1 dc, 2 dc in next dc* repeat around, miss last dc, join with sl st to 2nd ch (54 dc)

After struggling with a badly written crochet pattern published in Woman's Weekly for the recent Save the Children appeal I decided to come up with my own newborn baby hat pattern.

This pattern is based on the granny square and works from the top down so doesn't need any joining together at the end.

Hopefully my instructions make sense as this has not been pattern tested yet. Feel free to send me a message if you need any help making this item up

50g of dk yarn in the main colour (approx)
Short length of dk yarn in the contrast colour
Size 4.5mm crochet hook
Tapestry needle (for sewing in loose ends)

Newborn, 0-3 months

Still need to check this...

All rounds are joined with a sl st to the last stitch/top of chain from the beginning of that round.

Using the main colour work:

Row 1: Ch 3, join with sl st to form circle, work 6 sc into circle, join with sl st to first sc (6 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, 2 sc into each sc, join with sl st to first sc (12 sc)

Row 3: Ch 3, miss 1 sc *2 dc into next sc, ch 1, miss 1 sc* repeat 5 times, 1 dc, join with sl st to 3rd ch

Into 1 ch gaps work:

Row 4: Ch 2, dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1 *next gap - 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1* repeat 4 times, join with sl st to 2nd ch

Row 5: Sl st into next gap, ch 2, 1 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1 *(3dc into next gap, ch 1)x3, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1* repeat twice, (3 dc into next gap, ch 1)x3, join with sl st to 2nd ch

Rows 6-13: Sl st into next gap, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 1 *3 dc into next gap, ch 1* repeat around, join with sl st to 2nd ch

First ear flap:

Continuing on from last sl st...

Row 1: Sl st into next gap, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 1 (3 dc, ch 1)x2, ch 3, (3 dc, ch 1)x2, ch 1, 1 dc into last dc, turn

Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc, turn

Row 3: Ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc, 1 dc into last dc, turn

Row 4: Ch 2, 3 dc, 1 dc into last dc

Finish off

Second ear flap

Skip the next 20 stitches (both dc's and sl st's)
Join yarn to top of first dc in group

Row 1: Ch 3, (3 dc, ch 1)x2, 1 dc in top of last dc in group, turn

Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc, (ch 1, 3 dc)x2, turn

Row 3: Ch 3, (3 dc, ch 1)x2, dc in last dc in group, turn

Row 4: Ch 2, miss 1 dc, dc in next 2 dc, ch 1, dc in next 2 dc, dc in 3rd ch, turn

Row 5, Ch 2, 3 dc, dc in 2nd ch

Finish off

Using the contrast colour work:

Row 1-2: sc around edge of hat & ear flaps

Finish off & weave in loose ends

This rockin' baby blankie is perfectly cozy for the little star in your life!

Color A: 475 yd (preemie size) or 1275 yd (baby size) 5/bulky weight yarn
Color B: 250 yd (preemie size) or 650 yd (baby size) 5/bulky weight yarn
Color C: 175 yd (preemie size) or 425 yd (baby size) 5/bulky weight yarn
Size J-10 (6.0 mm) crochet hook
Yarn needle

22” x 22” (preemie), 36” x 36” (baby)

Not necessary.

1. Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. To avoid confusion, it may be helpful to circle the numbers corresponding to your size before beginning this project. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

2. Graph is worked in intarsia, with unused colors carried on wrong side of work throughout.

http://www.crochetkitten.com/files/Rock-a-Star_Baby_Blankie.pdf