Cuddle your angel in this delicate, fleece-lined afghan in baby or preemie size.

MC – 2 skeins (preemie size) or 3 skeins (baby size) 4/worsted-weight yarn
CC – 1 skein (preemie size) or 2 skeins (baby size) 4/worsted-weight yarn
Size K/10.5 (6.5 mm) crochet hook
Yarn needle

22” x 22” (preemie),
33” x 33” (baby)

Not necessary.

http://www.crochetkitten.com/files/Heavenly_Hearts_Afghan.pdf

These booties are perfect for a new baby. Their little feet are guaranteed to be warm. These are worked in the round from the sole up.

1 oz Red Heart Super Saver – Linen (or any tan colored worsted weight yarn)
Small amount of Yarn Bee Luscious – Ice (or any fluffy-not furry white yarn of 4 or 5 weight)
Small amount Red Heart Super Saver – White (or any white worsted weight yarn)
5mm hook
yarn needle

Newborn
Sole: 3 ½ inches
Height: approx. 3 ½ inches

Approx. 3 ½ stitches per inch
Approx. 3 rows per inch

Be sure to check stitch number when mentioned.

Using tan yarn, ch 8.

Rnd 1: hdc in 3rd ch, dc next 4, (6 dc) in last ch, working on other side of chain hdc next 4, (3 hdc) in last loop. Join to beg ch 2.

This started as a mistake, but I ran with it, and now it's one of my favorite caps. It leaves room for people with curly or thick hair, if you just had a hairstyle done. It's also just plain fashionable! Takes no time at all (accomplished in about 45 minutes in between watching TV). No need for lots of attention to make this cap.

Caron Perfect Match Black (don't need a whole skein)

Divine yarn for the rim (but you can use whatever you fancy)

Fits almost any size head. And as usual, you can decrease or increase accordingly.

Totally depends on the yarn you use. This was mostly done visually, so take a guess and go with it!

Ch 5, slip stitch into a circle.

Rd 1: Ch 3 (counts as first DC) and then dc 9 more in circle. Slip stitch to 3rd ch in first ch3.

Rd. 2-3: 2 DC in EACH dc in the round.

I love the moon and the stars. Any time we’re out after dark (and it’s dark enough to see them – darn you, light pollution) I love to stop and identify constellations, planets, the current phase of the moon, or whatever else is there to see. My husband is very tolerant of this. At any rate, I was in the middle of making scads of things for my new baby when I realized that I had a few celestial-themed pieces for him, and wouldn’t a little crescent moon and star just go perfectly with them? Of course they would.

So here they are, simply crocheted in a pleasingly soft baby yarn. For those looking for something a little different, the pattern could be worked in worsted weight yarn for something a little larger, or you could work the star in a larger hook for a softer fabric and enlarge it to make a cute star-shaped afghan. I hope you enjoy them!

• Red Heart Soft Baby (575 yd/525 m per 7 oz/198 g skein) in Powder Yellow; approx. 1 ¾ oz/132 yds/121 m for Star, approx. 2 oz/165 yds/151 m for Moon
• F/5 hook (3.75mm)
• Stuffing
• Stitch markers
• Yarn needle

Star – 7.5"/19 cm tall
Moon – 10.5"/27 cm tall

Gauge is unimportant in this pattern.

Special Stitches

sc3tog = Draw up a loop through each of the next three stitches. Yarn over, and pull through all four loops on hook.

Star (make 2)

Note: Do not join rounds unless indicated. To help keep track of rounds, place a stitch marker in the first stitch of the round to mark the beginning of the round.

We, here at Crochet me, think pastel colors are for babies. Wait a sec. What we mean is that pastel colors are boring. When they're used for kid stuff. Kids are fun. Vibrant. Loud and colorful. They deserve stuff that's playful, not dull. Stuff that'll hide stains and spark the imagination. Like this blanket. Sure, crayons come in pastel colours. But kids never use the pastel ones when they write on the walls, do they?

• Yarn:  Sandnes Smart Superwash wool (109 yds/100 m per 50g ball, or substitute similar DK weight yarn
• 2 balls each in red (4219), orange (2708), yellow (2206), green (887), blue (5936), purple (5226)
• 6 balls charcoal (1088)
• 1 ball light grey (1042)
• 5.00mm (US size H/8) hook

Approximately 42" x 39".

Approximate crayon size (including point): 7" x 39" (17.8cm x 100cm). 

Approximate gauge in patt st: 15 stitches, 14 rows per 4" (10cm).

Since the pattern is for a blanket, matching the gauge is not as important as keeping a consistent gauge. However, if your gauge is significantly looser than recommended, your blanket may require more yarn.   

Patt st:
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first dc, *dc in next sc, sc in next dc*, rep from * to * across, ending dc in last sc, turn.
Rep Row 1 for patt st.

d/s dec: double crochet/single crochet decrease (yo, insert hook in next sc, yo, draw up loop, yo, draw through first two loops on hook, insert hook in next dc, yo, draw up loop, yo draw through all loops on hook).

Changing Colors:
When changing colors in the middle of a row, the last "yo/draw through 2 loops" of the previous stitch is done in the new color. When changing colors between rows, the last "yo, draw through 2 loops" of the last stitch on the previous row is done in the new color.

Crayon (make 6 - one in each main color)

With crayon color, ch 27.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, *dc in next ch, sc in next ch,* rep from * to * across, ending dc in last ch, turn. (26 sts)

Rows 2-7: Begin patt st.

Rows 8-11: work patt stitch in charcoal.

Rows 12-14: work patt stitch in crayon color.

Rows 15-18: work patt stitch in charcoal.

Rows 19-37: work patt stitch in crayon color.

Continuing in patt st, begin oval (see chart)

Row 38: 11 sts in crayon color, 4 sts in charcoal, 11 sts in crayon color.

Row 39: 10 sts in crayon color, 6 sts in charcoal, 10 sts in crayon color.

Row 40: 9 sts in crayon color, 8 sts in charcoal, 9 sts in crayon color.

Row 41-42: 8 sts in crayon color, 10 sts in charcoal, 8 sts in crayon color.

Row 43-44: 7 sts in crayon color, 12 sts in charcoal, 7 sts in crayon color.

Row 45-47: 6 sts in crayon color, 14 sts in charcoal, 6 sts in crayon color.

Row 48-51: 5 sts in crayon color, 16 sts in charcoal, 5 sts in crayon color.

Row 52-72: 4 sts in crayon color, 18 sts in charcoal, 4 sts in crayon color.

Row 73-76: 5 sts in crayon color, 16 sts in charcoal, 5 sts in crayon color.

Row 77-79: 6 sts in crayon color, 14 sts in charcoal, 6 sts in crayon color.

Row 80-81: 7 sts in crayon color, 12 sts in charcoal, 7 sts in crayon color.

Row 82-83: 8 sts in crayon color, 10 sts in charcoal, 8 sts in crayon color.

Row 84: 9 sts in crayon color, 8 sts in charcoal, 9 sts in crayon color.

Row 85: 10 sts in crayon color, 6 sts in charcoal, 10 sts in crayon color.

Row 86: 11 sts in crayon color, 4 sts in charcoal, 11 sts in crayon color. (End of oval)

Rows 87-105: work patt st in crayon color.

Rows 106-109: work patt st in charcoal.

Rows 110-112: work patt st in crayon color.

Rows 113-116: work patt st in charcoal.

Rows 117-120: work patt st in crayon color.

Crayon Point

Row 121: Sl st in first 2 sts, ch 1 (for height), *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 8 more times, sc in next st, d/s dec over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn (last two stitches of previous row remain unworked). (21 sts excl ch sts and sl sts, which will not be worked in next row)

Row 122: Sc in first st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 7 more times, sc in next st, d/s dec over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (20 sts)

Row 123: Sc in first st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 7 more times, sc2tog over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (19 sts)

Row 124: Sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 6 more times, sc2tog over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (18 sts)

Row 125: Sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 5 more times, sc in next st, d/s dec over next two sts, dc in next st, ch1, turn. (17 sts)

Row 126: Sc in first st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 5 more times, sc in next st, d/s dec over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (16 sts)

Row 127: Sc in first st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 5 more times, sc2tog over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (15 sts)

Row 128: Sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 4 more times, sc2tog over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (14 sts)

Row 129: Sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 3 more times, sc in next st, d/s dec over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (13 sts)

Row 130: Sc in first st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 3 more times, sc in next st, d/s dec over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (12 sts)

Row 131: Sc in first st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 3 more times, sc2tog over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (11 sts)

Row 132: Sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 2 more times, sc2tog over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (10 sts)

Row 133: Sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 1 more time, sc in next st, d/s dec over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (9 sts)

Row 134: Sc in first st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 1 more time, sc in next st, d/s dec over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (8 sts)

Row 135: Sc in first st, *sc in next st, dc in next st,* rep from * to * 1 more time, sc2tog over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (7 sts)

Row 136: Sc in first st, dc in next st, sc in next st, dc in next st,, sc2tog over next two sts, dc in next st, ch 1, turn. (6 sts)

Fasten off. Securely weave in all ends.

Alphabet

Use light grey yarn. For each letter, sl sts are done in the back bumps of the ch sts. To fasten off, pull the tail through the last loop, and tie the start and end tails together.

A: Ch 19, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 3 sts, ch 4, sl st in second ch from hook, and in each of next 7 sts, ch 1, sl st in first ch from hook and in each of next 9 sts. Fasten off.

B: Ch 20, sl st in first ch from hook and in each of next 2 sts, ch 9, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 15 sts, ch 1, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 8 sts. Fasten off.

D: Ch 25, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 14 sts, ch 1, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 8 sts. Fasten off.

E: Ch 16, *sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 4 sts,* rep from * to * 1 more time, ch 5, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 7 sts, ch 6, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 4 sts. Fasten off.

G: Ch 24, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 19 sts, ch 1, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 2 sts. Fasten off.

L: Ch 17, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 4 sts, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 9 sts. Fasten off.

N: Ch 20, sl st in first ch from hook, ch 10, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 18 sts, ch 1, sl st in first ch from hook and in each of next 9 sts. Fasten off.

O: Ch 25, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 23 sts. Fasten off.

P: Ch 20, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 9 sts, ch 1, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 8 sts. Fasten off.

R: Ch 19, sl st in first ch from hook, sl st in next st, ch 5, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 12 sts, ch 1, sl st in second ch from hook and each of next 7 sts. Fasten off.

U: Ch 21, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 19 sts. Fasten off.

W: Ch 13, sl st in first ch from hook, ch 13, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 6 sts, ch 1, sl st in first ch from hook and in each of next 10 sts, ch 1, sl st in first ch from hook and in each of next 7 sts. Fasten off.

Y: Ch 11, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 5 sts, ch 6, sl st in second ch from hook and in each of next 9 sts. Fasten off.

Assembly

Using grey yarn, securely sew color names on each crayon, making sure the red, yellow and blue crayons have the points facing left, and the orange, green and purple crayons have the points facing right.

Don't worry if the color text ends up a bit wonky, it will simply resemble a child's writing.

Using small stitches and matching leftover yarn from the crayons, sew the crayon edges together in rainbow order (red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple), making sure to line up the stripes and ovals.

Securely weave in all ends.

This super fun hat will lend flair to anyone's wardrobe -- young or old. This simple pattern can be sized from infant to adult, just by changing the size of the hook you use to make it. Can't get any simpler than that!

• Red Heart Super Saver Yarn, 3 oz (MC)
• Bernat Boa or Bernat Eyelash Yarn, small amount (CC)

• Size G Hook for Infants Cap
  Size H Hook for Toddlers Cap
  Size I Hook for Childs Cap
  Size J Hook for Teen/Small Adult Cap
  Size K Hook for Adult Cap

US Pattern Notations Used
tr = treble crochet
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
sc = single crochet
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
st = stitch

Throw away those pinchy elastic headbands you find in the department store for your baby… and get your crochet hooks out to create these quick, easy and fantastically funky headbands that everyone will notice!

• 1 skein (57 yards/52 meters per 40 grams/1 1/2 oz) Lions Brand Yarn Fun Fur Prints - Rainbow.
• Size K/6.5mm crochet hook

Stitches are worked in the space of the half double crochet rather than attempting to work into the stitch.

US Pattern Notations Used
ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet

A couple of years ago, I made this beautiful “one piece” knit baby sweater using a pattern from some magazine from the 70’s. It started from the back and continued in one piece over the shoulders, picking up one side to finish. It was easy enough but it took me 6 weeks to complete, because I just wasn’t that good at knitting. I thought how nice it would be to have a similar pattern in crochet. So, I adapted it, and voila, here it is. The nicest thing about it is that, with the chunky yarn, it only takes about 3 hours to make. There are two options for sweater bands below.

• 1 skein, Lionbrand Homespun Yarn (Bulky/6 oz/185 yards). Note: for 12 months you will need a little more than one skein.
• 1-2 ozs worsted weight yarn in contrast color for edging and buttons.
• Size K (6.5mm) hook for sweater
• 2 buttons
• Size H (5.0mm) hook for optional crocheted buttons
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends

6 mos (12 mos)
Length 10” (11”)
Chest 20” (23”)
Sleeve 6.5” (7.5”)

10 hdc and 8 rows = 4”/10cm

Samples used:
Blue: LB Homespun Montana Sky with TLC Lustre Lt Blue
Pink: LB Homespun Boston Rose with TLC Lustre Black
Coral: LB Homespun Coral Gables with Bernat Satin Pink
Green: LB Homespun Florida Keys Green with GGH Samoa Fuchsia

US Pattern Notations Used
Ch = chain
St = stitch
Sc = single crochet
Hdc = half double crochet
Sl st = slip stitch
Sc2tog = single crochet two together

Sweater is made in one piece starting at the bottom of the back side. The turning chain counts as the first hdc of a row, and the next hdc is made into the next stitch.

Begin
Ch 26 (29)

Row 1: Hdc into 3 rd Ch. Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. – 25 (28) Hdc

Rows 2-9: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows before moving on to next row.

Row 10: Hdc across. Fasten off.

Row 11: Add sleeves: Ch 15(17). With right side facing, Hdc into 1 st st, where you fastened off (leaving chain hanging off the hook, wrap the yarn over the hook, insert into first st and complete Hdc). Hdc across. Ch 16(18), turn.

Row 12: Hdc into 3 rd ch and Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. – 55(62) Hdc.

Rows 13-19: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows before moving on to next row.

Row 20: Hdc for 22(24) sts. Sl st in next 11(14) sts. Hdc in last 22(24) sts. Ch 2, turn.

Rows 21-22: Hdc across 22(24) sts. Ch 2, turn.

Row 23: Hdc across. Ch 12(14), turn.

Row 24: Hdc into 3 rd ch. Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. – 33(37) Hdc.

Rows 25-27: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows before moving on to next row.

Row 28: Hdc into first 18(20) sts. Ch 2, turn. – 18 (20)Hdc

Rows 29-38: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows hdc before fastening off.

Fasten off.

Pick up for the left sleeve.

Row 1: With front of sweater facing you, begin at the outside edge. Insert hook into first st and Ch 2. Hdc in next 21(23) sts. – 22(24) Hdc.

Row 2: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn.

Row 3: Hdc across. Ch 6(8) and turn.

Row 4: Hdc into 3 rd ch and Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. – 27 (31)Hdc.

Rows 5-7: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows before moving on to next row.

Row 8: Hdc in first 12(14) sts. Ch 2, turn. – 12(14) Hdc

Rows 9-18: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows hdc before fastening off.

Fasten off.

To finish.

Option 1, as shown in Florida Keys Green with fuchsia band (shown left):

With contrast color and with the right side facing you, loosely sc along left placket. Place 3 sc in corner at the beginning of the neckline. Sc around neckline. Place 3 sc in top corner of right placket and sc down the right side. Ch 1, turn. Sc back around, placing 3 sc in the right corner, until you reach the top of the left placket. Place 3 sc in left corner and sc in next st. To make long buttonhole, ch 8 and join with sc to same st. Sc in next 3 sts, ch 8 and join with sc to same st. Sc to end. Fasten off. Add two rows of loose sc in contrast color to short end of both sleeves. Fold sweater along shoulder with right sides facing each other. Connect seams with either whipstitch or slip stitch, along both sides of body and under sleeves. Turn right side out. Place buttons, using buttonholes as a guide, and sew to right side.

Option 2, as shown in Coral Gables with pink band (shown right):

With contrast color and with the right side facing you, loosely sc along left placket. Place 3 sc in corner at the beginning of the neckline. Sc around neckline. Place 3 sc in top corner of right placket and sc down the right side. Ch 1, turn. Sc back around, placing 3 sc in the right corner, until you reach the top of the left placket. Place 3 sc in left corner and sc in next st. To make buttonhole, ch 3, skip two sts and sc in next. Sc in next, ch3, skip two sts, and sc in next. Sc to end. Ch 1 and sc around bottom edge of sweater for two rows. Fasten off. Add two rows of sc in contrast color to short end of both sleeves. Fold sweater along shoulder with right sides facing each other. Connect seams with either whipstitch or slip stitch, along both sides of body and under sleeves. Turn right side out. Place buttons, using buttonholes as a guide, and sew to right side.

To make optional crocheted buttons. With contrast color and smaller hook, chain 4 and join to first ch. Six sc in center and join to first sc. Ch 1, *sc in next two sts, 2 sc in next* repeat to end of round and join. Ch 1, sc2tog around and join. Leaving a long tail for sewing button on, fasten off.

One of my favorite things about December is pulling out all of the old Christmas movies I loved as a child. It’s tradition! Every year, among many others, our Christmas movie list included Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer. You remember -- the 1960s stop-motion version, complete with reindeer, Santa, an elf who wants to be a dentist (a dentist?), and my personal favorite, the abominable snowmonster.

These whimsical slippers are inspired by the abominable snowmonster, but sized for little feet, from baby to small child. They’re perfect for all the little monsters on your list!

• Caron Simply Soft, 3/4 (1, 1 ½) oz. Grey Heather, 1 (1 ½, 2 ¼) oz. Off-White (amounts given are amounts required for two slippers, or one pair.)
• 5.00mm (size H/8) hook
• Yarn needle

Small (newborn – 3 months), Medium (6 – 12 months), Large (18 – 24 months)

Finished Measurements (toe to heel of sole) – Small: 3 ½ in, Medium: 4 ½ in, Large: 5 ¼ in

4 sts x 4 rows in sc = 1”

Loops in sample are approximately 1” long.

Instructions are given for the smallest size, with larger sizes in parenthesis. If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes except where indicated.

Special Technique: Bouclé Loop Stitch

In this pattern, the bouclé loop stitch will be formed with the aid of no special equipment but your own fingers. The lengths of the loops can vary widely, requiring more or less yarn than specified, but it is important to make the size of your loops consistent throughout the piece.

To make the loop stitch, *Insert hook in next stitch and before catching it with the hook, loop yarn over your left index finger, then catch yarn with hook and draw a loop through the stitch, yarn over, draw through two loops, and slip your finger out of the loop.

Repeat from asterisk across the row.

Only a little practice will make you a loop-stitch pro! Also, see our in-depth loop stitch tutorial.

Pattern (make 2)

Sole

I’ve crocheted this hat so many times in so many different color and texture combinations. It’s extremely versatile. I’ve given the derby as a gift, and I’ve donated many to Stitches From the Heart. It’s very easy to change the size from preemie to toddler to adult -- just keep increasing between the front posts until you reach the desired size. Play with color so your hat is perfect for the baby who will wear it!

• Various colors of worsted weight yarn (I used Lion Brand kitchen cotton)
• 4.0mm (size “G”) crochet hook

Front post double crochet (FPDC) – YO, insert hook from front to back to front around vertical post (upright part) of dc in row below, yo draw yarn around post, yo and complete dc.

Popcorn: Work 4 or 5 dc in st (follow pattern instructions), drop loop from hook, insert hook in top of first dc of group, pull dropped loop through st.

This cheery, cuddly pillow is sure to brighten even the dullest day. It's a fabulous project for beginners, so come on all you newbies out there, show us what you got.

• Sport Weight Baby Yarn, 2 colors A & B (pick your favorites!)
• Size I hook
• Polyester Fiberfill for pillow stuffing
• Small piece of yarn, stitch marker, or safety pin to mark rounds

I used 2 colors for the front of the flower and one single color for the back.