A dragon wing design that was inspired by another slightly more complex design. In my attempt to see if I could simplify it, this is what I came up with.

I am unable to crochet with tension, so there isn't any gauge.
(But don't worry, I have found that even without using constant tension, my projects have always been very accurate.)

Some yarn (use whatever yarn you are using on the project that you are going to attach these to)

Hook: Either use the same size as what you are using on your project, or the size that creates the effect that you like. (I used a G hook because that is what I was using on my project.)

With a G hook, mine is about 3 1/2" long, 2 1/4" wide (narrow end), and 3 1/4" wide (wide end).
Size will vary with the size of hook and type of yarn used.

None

The sc around the piece may have to be fiddled with a little to get the effect that you want.

And remember to make two wings for a pair.

Ch 8
1-3) Sc across, ch 1, turn (7 sc ).
4) 2sc in 1st stitch, sc across till last stitch, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn (9 sc).
5-8) Sc across, ch 1, turn (9 sc).
9) 2sc in 1st stitch, sc across till last stitch, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn (11 sc).
10-14) Sc across, ch 1, turn (11 sc).
15) 2sc in 1st stitch, sc across till last stitch, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn (13 sc).
16) 4sc, ch 3, miss 1st chain, 2 ss, sc in sc, 4 sc, ch 3, miss 1st chain, 2 ss, sc in sc, sc till end, ch 3, miss 1st chain, 2ss.
Sc around piece till beg R16, ch 3, miss 1st chain, 2ss, ss in 1st stitch of R16, FO.

My little sister loves poodles, so I decided to make this pattern for her.

.One pound of white , worsted weight yarn.
.Size I crochet hook
.fiber-fill stuffing

babies-1in

unknown

1.ch 2 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
2.2 sc in each sc around
3.sc in each sc around,stuff
4.dec until closed
(make 20)

This Free pattern will allow you to create a Halloween Pumpkin to compliment your decorations. Make several with different faces and put them everywhere.

Give them as Party Favors at your Halloween Party. This festive treat is low in calories for those who are watching their figures.

Main Color: Worsted Wool (Paton’s Satin in Sunset)
Contrasting Color: Worsted Wool (Paton’s Astra in Black)
Needle: Yarn needle for sewing and embroidery.
Hook Size: 2.5mm (C/2)crochet hook.
Fiberfill for stuffing

Size: 2" (5cm) tall and 3" (7.5cm) diameter.

Does not matter as bigger wool and bigger gauge will make larger pumpkin.

http://www.pixiekitten.com/PixieFree02HalloweenPumpkinPattern.html

I'll start off by saying this: Did you know that the plural of octopus is octopode? (Not octopi, octopuses, octopussi) This is because the word 'octopus' comes from a Greek term oktopous so the Latin plural 'i' doesn't apply. Anyway, my goal for making this little guy was to achieve something cute, but realistic and tasteful. I hope you enjoy making him as much as I did. (:
Also, please feel free to alter the pattern if you feel necessary, and let me know! This is the first time I've ever written a pattern, and I'd love to see what people come up with.

• any material worsted weight yarn

• G hook

• yarn needle

• buttons, plastic eyes (optional)

The weight of yarn and size of hook are ones I used for this project. Gauge doesn't matter too much, as the size is unimportant--if you want to use a chunkier yarn, go right ahead. If you want to go thinner, I'm not stopping you.

The one I made is about 4 1/4" (11 cm) tall, and about 12" (30 cm) wide with the tentacles stretched out. He's a pretty small guy.

Gauge isn't a big factor in this one.

The entire thing is worked in a spiral, in single crochet stitches. A double crochet stitch is suggested for the tentacles, but isn't mandatory. I'll write out the pattern simply so beginners can understand it too.

 The only abbreviations you'll need to know are:

• sc: single crochet

• dc: double crochet

• rnd: round

Body:

Rnd 1: Chain 2, work 4 sc into first chain

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each stitch around (8 st)

Rnd 3: Sc in first stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch. Repeat all around. (12 st)

Rnd 4: Sc in the first 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch. Repeat all around. (16 st)

Rnd 5: Sc in the first 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch, Repeat all around. (20 st)

Rnd 6: Sc in each stitch around. (20 st)

Rnd 7: Sc in the first 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch. Repeat all around. (24 st)

Rnd 8: Sc in each stitch around. (24 st)

Rnd 9: Decrease twice, sc in each stitch around. (22 st)

Rnd 10: Decrease twice, sc in each stitch around. (20 st)

Rnd 11: Decrease twice, sc in each stitch around. (18 st)

Rnd 12: Decrease twice, sc in each stitch around. (16 st)

These last two rows are to ensure you have room to sew on the tentacles:

Rnd 13: Decrease in each stitch around. (8 st)

Rnd 14: Increase in each stitch around. (16 st)

Fasten off.

Tentacles (make 8):

The tentacles are worked from the bottom up, and can get pretty tedious. Make sure you have equipped with you a hefty supply of patience

Rnd 1: Chain 8, join together to make a ring

Rnd 2-6: Sc in each stitch around. (8 st)

Rnd 7: Decrease in first stitch, sc in each stitch around. (7 st)

Rnd 8-11: Sc in each stitch around. (7 st) 

Rnd 12: Decrease in first stitch, sc in each stitch around. (6 st)

Rnd 13-16: Sc in each stitch around. (6 st)

Rnd 17: Decrease in first stitch, sc in each stitch around. (5 st)

Rnd 18-21: Sc in each stitch around. (5 st)

Here's where it starts getting confusing. Normally when I get this far, I keep decreasing until I can't even see what I'm doing anymore. You can go ahead, be the overachiever and keep going until you have one stitch.

Fasten off.

What to do next:

Now that you have a body and some tentacles, it's time to sew them on. You'll want to lay them out and plan where you want each one to go, then sew.
You'll also notice that there's a hole at the very bottom of the body--usually I'd crochet a circle the same size, and leave a little hole in the center for its orifice. You can choose to go about this issue any way you'd like.

As for eyes, it's another one of those optional things. Some people like buttons, others like googly eyes. I went for the typical bulgy octopus eyes.

This is the Free Pattern for this adorable Rubber Duckie.

This adorable bathtub playmate is reproduced in detailed crochet. It stands four and a half inches long by three inches wide by three and a half inches tall.

This classic bathtime buddy brings back many fond memories. And if you take it in the bath, it probably won't float, but it will bring back fond memories of a simpler time.

Main Color: Super Chunky Wool (Bernat Melody in Sunny Yellow)
Contrasting Color: Worsted Wool ( Bernat Stain in Sunset)
Eyes: Half round eyes (Glue on) (If giving to children: Embroider eyes)
Needle: Yarn needle for sewing and embroidery.
Hook Size: E/4 hook or 3.5mm crochet hook.
Fiberfill for stuffing

3.5"(9 cm)tall by 3"(7.5 cm)wide by 4.5"(11.5 cm)long

The gauge does not matter as the larger the gauge the larger the finished product.

http://www.pixiekitten.com/PixieFree01RubberDuckiePattern.html

This is my first crochet pattern, so feedback is welcome, though admittedly, there isn't much to this one. I had made the Obama finger puppet from a Lion brand pattern, and when I saw that he won the American election last night (Nov. 4th, 2008), I thought I should make him a crown to celebrate his victory. I couldn't find a pattern for a mini crown online, so I made my own! Enjoy!

Small amount of yellow worsted weight yarn (I used Stylecraft Special Double Knit in Sunshine.)
Size E-4 (3.50 mm) crochet hook
Tapestry needle

Approximately 2.5 inches (6.35 cm) in diameter, or the perfect size to fit around your Obama finger puppet's head!

Gauge isn't particularly important for this project.

Ch 30, join with sl st to form a ring, making sure not to twist chain

Rnd1: Ch1, Sc in each ch around and join with a sl st (29 sc)

Rnd2: Ch1, Sc in each st around and join with a sl st

Rnd3: Ch1, *Sc in first st, skip 1 st, 3 dc in next sc, ch3 and sc in top of last dc, 3 dc in same sc, skip 1 st, rep from * until you have 7 points. Join and fasten off.

Sew in loose ends.

Cute, quick to make mini pumpkins

Double knit/ worsted weight yarn used in Orange and Green
Hook appropriate to yarn used
Polyester toy stuffing, Polyfil or scraps of yarn
Each mini pumpkin needs 2 eyes (you can use buttons or embroider eyes on)

Mini

Appropriate to yarn used

Abbreviations:
Rnd – Round
St – Stitch
Sts – Stitches
Dc (UK)/ Sc (USA) – Double Crochet (UK)/ Single Crochet (USA)
Sl st – Slip stitch
Ch – Chain
Dec - Decrease

http://nezumiworld.blogspot.com/2008/10/mini-pumpkins.html

These little guys are pretty versatile. Use as a key chain, fridge magnet, car dangler, car freshener, cat toy, person toy, etc! I made these as a gift for a friend who loves strawberries.

I used "TLC Amore" yarn in red velvet (medium weight?)
medium worsted yarn in green
4.0mm/US G6 hook
beads for eyes (optional)
black thread (optional)
sewing or tapestry needle (optional)
tiny amount black wool(optional)
polyester fiberfill or stuffing of choice - smelly stuff, catnip, beans, natural fibers etc.

about 5cm / 2" without stalk, about 6cm/ 2.5" with stalk straight up

gauge not important

The body is worked in continuous rounds, so place a marker in the first stitch of each row throughout.

Body (in Red):

Rnd 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc in ring (6)

Rnd 2: *2 sc in next sc* throughout (12)

Rnd 3: *2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc* throughout (18)

Rnd 4-6: 1 sc in each st around (18)

Rnd 7: *sc 2tog, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc* throughout (13)

Rnd 8: sc in each st around (13)

You may want to start stuffing here.

Rnd 9: same as Rnd 7, continue to do this until you have only 6 sc left, ending with the last sc 2 tog stitch (so once you sc 2 tog and there is 6 stitches left total).

Continue stuffing.

Next Rnd: work 1 sc, sc 2 tog, fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Make sure you have desired amount of stuffing, flatten edges of remaining stitches at the top and sew together. Weave in end.

Leaves and stalk (green)

Ch 4, sl st in 2nd 3rd and 4th ch from hook.

Rnd 1: In same 4th ch, work 6 sc, join with a sl st to 1st sc.

Rnd 2: *Ch 3, sc in 2nd and 3rd ch from hook, sl st in next sc of 6-sc ring* around, making six leaves, join with sl st to beginning leaf. Fasten off with long tail for sewing onto body.

Stick your crochet hook through the middle ring and pull the stalk through if you would like it to be right side facing up (strawberries in picture are).

Finishing:

Sew eyes onto body (can be beads like my berries shown or knots in wool etc) , create mouth with either thread or yarn.

Sew leaves and stalk onto the top of the strawberry, varying angles will create different personalities 

And you’re done! You can attach a keychain, ribbon, magnet, string, anything.

One of my friends even suggested filling it with smelly stuff instead of polyester and using it as a car air freshener!

With back to school rapidly approaching, this little amigurumi style owlet will help you keep your place. If you've no use for a bookmark, omit the thong and sew a keyring to the top of his head, and use him to keep a watchful eye over your backpack or purse!

size 5 (1.90 mm) steel crochet hook
size 10 crochet thread in brown, yellow, white and pink
2 beads for eyes
polyester fiberfil for stuffing
stitch markers
needle for sewing

Owlet = 1.5 inches tall.
With thong = 13 inches in length

Not important, just crochet tightly so that the stuffing does not show.

As is typical with amigurumi patterns, do not join rounds or turn your work. Use a stitch marker if needed to keep track of your rounds.

Eyes: (make 2)

With white thread:
Rnd 1: In a magic ring, make 6 sc. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in ea st around. (12 sc)
Sl st into next st and fasten off, leaving long thread to sew to owlets face.

Beak:

With yellow thread:
Rnd 1. In a magic ring, make 4 sc. (4 sc)
Rnd 2. 2 sc in ea st around. (8 sc)
Rnd 3: Sc in ea st around. (8 sc)
Sl st into next st and fasten off, leaving long thread to sew to owlets face.

Body:

With brown thread:
Rnd 1: In a magic ring, make 6 sc. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in ea st around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: *2 sc in next st, sc in next*, repeat from * to * around. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: *2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st*, repeat from * to * around. (24 sc)
Rnd 5. *2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st*, repeat from * to * around. (30 sc)
6 - 13. Sc in ea st around. (30 sc) Do not fasten off, use a stitch marker in the last stitch to keep the work from unraveling, and sew on eye rings, beads for eyes and beak (between rounds 6 and 12).
14 - 15. sc2tog, sc in next 12 st, sc inc in next two st, sc in next 12, sc2tog. (30 sc)
16. *sc2tog, sc in next 3*, repeat from * to * around. (24 sc)
17. *sc2tog, sc in next 2 st*, repeat from * to * around. (18 sc)
18. *sc2tog, sc in next*, repeat from * to * around. (12 sc) Do not fasten off!
Stuff owlet.
19. *sc2tog* repeat from * to * around. (6 sc)
Sl st into next st, and fasten off, leaving long thread to sew closed.

Wings: (make 2)

With pink thread:
Rnd 1: In a magic ring, make 6 sc. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in ea st around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: *2 sc in next st, sc in next*, repeat from * to * around. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: *2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st*, repeat from * to * around. (24 sc)
Sl st into next st and fasten off, fold in half and sew together. Sew just the tip of the wings to sides of owlet so your baby owl can still fly.

Thong:

With pink thread (or thread color of your choice) ch 121, sl st in 11 ch from hook, and in remaining stitches. Fasten off, leaving long end to sew to bottom of birdie. Sew the thong to the middle of the bottom of the owlet (where you did the final round and closed off).

Sew tassel or large bead to end loop of thong.

This was one of my very first amigurumi pattterns, inspired by my love of dragons, and a result of my not being able to find an easy pattern for a small crocheted dragon.

This pattern is also one of my most popular, and I am delighted to find it is still going strong. There are baby dragons all over the world now, with my pattern translated into french, german and who knows what other languages! I originally posted it on Crochetville.org.

Bulky yarn (I used Bernat Softee Chunky for my baby snow dragon) But reall, any yarn can be used for this pattern, just adjust your hook size accordingly.
"G" hook
tapestry or darning needle to sew pieces together
stitch markers (or a piece of yarn or thread to mark ends of rounds)
two post eyes or buttons, or for young children, eyes could be embroidered on
fiberfill or stuffing material

Depends on the yarn and hook size used.

Not important.

Abbreviations used:
sc = single crochet
st = stitch
ss = slip stitch
inc = increase (do 2 single crochets in one stitch)
dec = decrease ( insert hook into first stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through the two loops on your hook)

Head

As amigurumi is made in spirals, do not join rounds. Use a stitch marker or a piece of thread or yarn to mark the end of your rounds.

Start 6 sc in a magic ring. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc (inc) in each st around (12 sc)
Rnd 3 -6 : work even, no inc or dec (12 sc)
Rnd 7: 2 sc (inc) in each of the first 6 st, sc in each of remaining 6 sc (18 sc) (This starts to form the forehead ridge)
Rnd 8: sc in each of the first 8 st, 2 sc (inc) in the next 2 st, sc in the remaining 8 st (20 sc)
Rnd 9 - 11: work even, no inc or dec (20 sc)
Rnd 12: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next 3 st* repeat from * to * around (16 sc)
Rnd 13:*sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next 2 st* repeat from * to * around (12 sc)
Rnd 14: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next st* repeat from * to * around (8 sc)
ss in next st and fasten off, leaving a long tail for closing and sewing.

BODY

Start 4 sc in a magic ring. (4 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc (inc) in each st around (8 sc)
Rnd 3 -5 : work even, no inc or dec (8 sc)
Rnd 6: *1 sc in first st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (12 sc)
Rnd 7 - 8: work even, no inc or dec (12 sc)
Rnd 9: *1 sc in first 2 st, 2 sc (inc) in third st* repeat from * to * around. (16 sc)
Rnd 10:*1 sc in first 3 st, 2 sc (inc) in fourth st* repeat from * to * around. (20 sc)
Rnd 11: *1 sc in first 4 st, 2 sc (inc) in fifth st* repeat from * to * around. (24 sc)
Rnd 12: *1 sc in first 5 st, 2 sc (inc) in sixth st* repeat from * to * around. (28 sc)
Rnd 13 - 16: work even, no inc or dec (28 sc)
Rnd 17: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next 5 st* repeat from * to * around ( 24 sc)
Rnd 18: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next 4 st* repeat from * to * around ( 20 sc)
Rnd 19:*sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next 3 st* repeat from * to * around ( 16 sc)
Rnd 20: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next 2 st* repeat from * to * around ( 12 sc)
Rnd 21: *sc first 2 st together (dec)* repeat from * to * around. (6 sc) ss in next st and fasten off, leaving a long tail for closing and sewing.

TAIL

Start 3 sc in a magic ring (3 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc (inc) in each st around (6 sc)
Rnd 3: work even, no inc or dec (6 sc)
Rnd 4: *1 sc in first st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (9 sc)
Rnd 5: work even, no inc or dec (9 sc)
Rnd 6: *1 sc in first 2 st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (12 sc)
Rnd 7: work even, no inc or dec (12 sc)
Rnd 8: *1 sc in first 3 st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (15 sc)
Rnd 9: work even, no inc or dec (15 sc)
Rnd 10: *1 sc in first 4 st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (18 sc)
Rnd 11: work even, no inc or dec (18 sc)
Rnd 12: *1 sc in first 5 st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (21 sc)
Rnd 13 - 15: work even, no inc or dec (21 sc) At the end of rnd 15, ss in next st and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

FEET (Make 2)

Start 4 sc in a magic ring. (4 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc (inc) in each st around (8 sc)
Rnd 3: *1 sc in first st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (12 sc)
Rnd 4 - 6: work even, no inc or dec (12 sc)
Rnd 7: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next st* repeat from * to * around (8 sc)
Rnd 8: work even, no inc or dec. (8 sc) ss in next st, and fasten off, leaving a long tail for closing and sewing.

ARMS (Make 2)

Start 6 sc in a magic ring. (6 sc)
Rnd 2 - 6: work even, no inc or dec (6 sc)
Rnd 7: *1 sc in first 2 st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (8 sc)
Rnd 8 - 9: work even, no inc or dec (8 sc)
Rnd 10: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next 2 st* repeat from * to * around (6 sc) ss in next st and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

EARS AND SPINES (Make 5)

Start 4 sc in a magic ring. (4 sc)
Rnd 2: *1 sc in first st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (6 sc)
Rnd 3: *1 sc in first 2 st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (8 sc)
Rnd 4: *1 sc in first 3 st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (10 sc)
Rnd 5: work even, no inc or dec (10 sc) ss in next st, and fasten off, leaving a long tail for closing and sewing.

Weave long tail through the last row of two of these pieces and gather, these are the ears.
The other 3 pieces fold flat (to look like a triangle) and are sewn on the back for the spines.

EYELIDS (Make 2)

6 sc in a magic ring. This is the exception to working in spirals. At the end of this round, chain one, and turn
Rnd 2: sc in each st around (6 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing

ASSEMBLY DIRECTIONS:

It's easiest for me to pin my body parts into place before sewing them, to make sure they're balanced and in the correct position.

Sew eye lids into place on the head, then attach eyes. Stuff head, and weave yarn through last row of stitches in the back of the head, gathering to close. (I run the yarn down the back of the head to use to sew the head to the neck) Set aside.

Stuff body and neck. Weave yarn through last row of stitches on the bottom of the body, gathering to close. Fasten off, and weave in end.

Stuff feet, and weave yarn though the last row of stitches to gather closed. Use remaining yarn to attach feet to the bottom of the body.

Stuff tail, position on the back of the body, and sew into place.

Stuff only the bottom of the arms, and sew into place on the body. (I positioned them folded across the belly of my dragon to pose him, and sewed them into place.)

Sew head onto body. Position ears on head and sew into place.

Sew spines in a line down the back of the dragon.

A good tutorial for making a magic ring can be found here:
http://crochetme.com/Dec_Jan_0405/reads_round.html

If you're not comfortable with using a magic ring, you can also start with the traditional method (chain two and work appropriate numbers of sc into second chain from the hook) but I find it leaves too big a hole for my tastes.

Tutorial on assembly can be found here:

http://www.quizilla.com/users/MarjorieCrochets/journal/

Enjoy your baby dragon!