Toys & Games
Bumble the Bee
Author
Introduction
My husband has been asking me to make him a bee for awhile now! Having finally almost finished Babette Blanket (and being out of the wool I need to complete its edging), I thought I’d go for the bee at long last!
Materials List
2.5mm hook
a small amount of yellow wool
a small amount of gray wool
stitch marker
(I used King Cole Merino Blend DK in amber and dark gray)
Finished Size
My finished Bee is just under 2 inches long.
Gauge
Gauge is unimportant for this project.
Notes
It’s a very quick and easy pattern worked in rounds, make sure you mark your final st or the round so you know where ‘the beginning’ is.
The Pattern
BODY:
Ch 2
Row 1: 6 sc in 1st ch, (mark 6th st)
Row 2: 2 sc in next 6 st (12sc, mark 12th st)
Row 3: *1 sc in 1st st, 2 sc in next stitch. Repeat from * until you complete the round (18sc, mark 18th st)
Rows 4-5: Change color to black and sc around all 18 st (18 sc, mark 18th st)
Row 6-7: Change to yellow and sc around as in rows 4-5.
Row 8-9: Change to black and sc around as in rows 4-5.
Row 10: Change to yellow and sc around (18sc).
Row 11: *1 sc in 1st stitch, 1 dec. Repeat from * for entire round (12 sc, mark 12th st)
Row 12: dec next 12 st (6 sc).
Then finish off and leave a little bit of yarn to weave around the opening of your bee.
Stuff the little dude with whatever fuzzy/fluffy stuff you have to hand (I save the little ends from other projects and use those)
Weave the yarn through the last 6 st and pull tightly to close. Weave in all ends.
WINGS (make 2):
ch 4
Round 1: beginning in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 3 st, ch 1, turn
Round 2: 1 sc in next 2 st, 2 sc in 3rd st, then 2sc in opposite side of the st you just worked 2 sc into. (you’re working in a little ‘U’ shape), 2 sc, finish off.
Then sew all the bits toghether! His eyes are just made from wool-knots in this picture, but use anything you like!
Gnome Alone Crochet Pattern
Author
Momwithahook Creations
Introduction
This little guy has been all around the internet creating all sorts of problems. From what I can tell his little shinanigans are not over yet. Inspired by a gnome crochet pattern I came across years ago but is now lost in webspace.
Materials List
Caron Wintuk 4ply acrylic yarn in blue, white, cream(face color), red, yellow, and brown
Size e crochet hook and fiber fill
2 black safety eyes
Finished Size
About 3inches Tall
Gauge
Not important to this pattern
Notes
Crochet in the round, do not join unless noted.
The Pattern
Ch 2
1: 6 sc in second ch from hook (6sc)
2: 2 sc in each st around (12sc)
3: 1 sc, 2sc around (18sc)
4: 1sc around in back loops only (18sc)
5 – 6: 1sc around (18sc)
7: 1 sc around, sl st in first sc, end off
Join Brown in any st with sc
8: 1 sc in each st around, join with a slip st to first sc (18sc)
9: 1 sc in first 8 stitches, add yellow and 1 sc in next 2 stitches, add brown 1 sc in next 8 stitches. (18sc)
sl stitch to first sc end off. (stuff)
Join Blue in any st with sc
10: 1 sc around (18sc) join with a sl st to first sc
11 – 12: repeat row 10 (18 sc)
13: Dec over next 2sc, 1sc repeat around (12sc) sl st to first sc end off. (stuff)
Join white in front st with sc (back loops only)
14: 1 sc in back loop only 5 x’s, 1 sc next 7 st (12sc) Join with sl st to first sc
15: 1 sc around (12sc)
16: Change to face color(cream) sc 4x’s, carry white, change to white 1 sc around(8sc) carry cream, change to cream and sc 4x’s then change to white sc for 8 stitches (12sc) End cream
17: 1 sc around with white (12sc)
18: Repeat row 17 (12sc) join with sl st to first sc. End off (stuff)
Beard – with white join to first of 5 front loop sc
19: sc in each front loop (5sc) ch 1 turn
20: decrease over next 2sc, 1sc, decrease over next 2sc (3sc) ch 1 turn
21: decrease over next 2sc, 1sc (2sc) ch 1 turn
22: dec over next 2sc (1sc) end off and stuff.
Join with Red in any st with a sc
23: 1 sc around (12sc)
24: decrease over next 2sc, 1sc around to the end. (stuff) end with a point. End off.
You can sew on a bead to the belt and add cross-stitch some eyes or glue google eyes on. Make it yours!
a cute bear for take care your key
Author
Amigurumi - a bear for take care your key
Introduction
I’d like to share an original pattern of mine, cute bear for take care your key.
* easy for beginner
* can finish within an hour
Materials List
1. Crochet Hooker size of 2.5 mm.
2. Acrylic Yarn (recommended) 4 ply - 1 skien
3. 1 pair of black beads as for eyes
4. fiberfill or polyester to stuff the head
Finished Size
approximately 2 inches wide
Gauge
Gauge is not important. Depends on yarn and hooker you use but I would recommended hooker size 2.5 mm. with 4 ply yarn.
Notes
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
dec - decrease
sl st - slip stitch
sts - stiches
The Pattern
HEAD
ROW 1 Ch 2, 6 sc in second chain from hook (Magic Ring) (6 sts)
ROW 2 2 sc, in each sc around (12 sts)
ROW 3 1 sc, 2 sc in next sc , repeat 6 times (18 sts)
ROW 4 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat 6 times (24 sts)
ROW 5 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat 6 times (30 sts)
ROW 6 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat 6 times (36 sts)
ROW 7-10 (sc 36 sts)
ROW 11 10 sc, dec 1 , repeat 3 times (33 sts)
ROW 12 9 sc, dec 1 , repeat 3 times (30 sts)
ROW 13 sc (30 sts)
ROW 14 3 sc, dec 1, repeat 6 times (24 sts)
ROW 15 sc (24 sts)
ROW 16 2 sc, dec 1 , repeat 6 times (18 sts)
ROW 17 1 sc, dec1 , repeat 6 times, sl st in next sc
Stuff head with polyester and bind off and weave in loose end (12 sts)
- - -
EAR with skin color yarn (make 2)
ROW 1 Ch 2, 6 sc in second chain from hook (6 sts)
ROW 2 2 sc, in each sc around (12 sts)
ROW 3-4 sc, sl st in next sc, bind off and leaving long tail for sewing with body. NO NEED TO STUFF (12 sts)
any comments are welcome :)
A Pair of Cherries
Author
Introduction
I discovered yesterday that inspiration can come from anywhere, at any time.
Picture the setting: you're sitting on your bum after a hard day's work, waiting for the chicken to boil down into stock, and you're watching a bit of "The Bionic Woman" from a couple weeks ago. Your hands start to itch, then twitch, and then you realise: you are a crocheter, you MUST crochet. Well, it's about 10:30 at night, and you know that if you stay up past 11, you won't get enough sleep, plus there's every chance that your gorgeous two-year-old son will want you to get up and play with him at 6 am. So what do you do? Start crocheting, knowing that it will keep you up late, or do you ignore the urges and try to take your mind off it with a Coke float and more "Bionic Woman"?
Well, I can tell you what I did...
Both! I poured myself a lovely Coke float, grabbed the new skein of red Pure Gold DK that I've had lying around, and I decided to make some little cherries with smiley faces because they're just so DARNED cute.
Materials List
A small amount of red yarn
A small amount of green yarn
A small amount of black yarn
Crochet hook, the smallest size you can use that won't split your yarn when you work with it
Tapestry needle
Finished Size
The cherries themselves will be about 3/4" tall if you use the same yarn I did (DK) and the same size hook (2.50mm). Obviously, they will vary somewhat with your choice of yarn/hook.
Gauge
Gauge is not used in this pattern; it will vary depending on the yarn and hook you use.
Notes
Abbreviations used
sc: single crochet
st: stitch
inc: increase
invdec: invisible decrease
If there is anything you don't understand in this pattern, please comment below and I'll respond to you personally.
The Pattern
Cherries
The cherries are worked in spiral rounds. You should use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round, so you don't lose your place.
With red yarn, make a ring, work 6 sc into ring. (6 st)
Rnd 1: 2 sc in each st around. (12)
Rnds 2-3: inc 3, evenly spaced. (18 st at the end of rnd 3)
Rnd 4: work even. (18)
Rnd 5: invdec 6, evenly spaced. (12)
Now embroider a face onto the cherry using black yarn, using the photo as a guide. I used French knots for the eyes and back-stitching for the mouth.
Leaves
Make two leaves per cherry.
With green yarn, ch 5. Now work into the back loops of the ch: sc into 2nd ch from hook, then hdc in the next st, dc in the next st. 5 sc in the last stitch and turn to work in the front "v" loops of the foundation chain: dc in the next st, hdc in the next st, sc in the final st. Sl st into the last ch of the foundation chain (the one immediately before you made your first sc). Finish off and weave in ends.
Stems
For each stem, cut a length of green yarn about 4 times the length you want your stems to end up. To be safe, I used lengths about 2 feet long and cut them down as necessary once I was finished assembling!
To make the stem, thread the yarn onto a tapestry needle and through the "fat" end of one leaf, then through the top of the cherry (outside to inside). Then thread the yarn back out the top of the cherry and through the fat end of the other leaf. Tie a square knot in the yarn; this will make the leaves be securely attached. Finally, use the two halves of your length of yarn to make a twisted cord, and tie off.
Final assembly
To finish your cherries, stuff each one firmly, and close the holes by finishing off your red yarn, then threading the end onto a tapestry needle. Thread the yarn through the front loop only of each stitch around the hole, and pull tight; the hole will close naturally. Weave in the ends.
Oh, yeah, and don't forget to grin stupidly when examining your final product :)
Crocheted Tooth
Author
Debbie G.
Introduction
I have a friend whose Daughter is studying to be a dental Hygienist. I made this tooth for her when I couldn’t find a suitable pattern. I made it in a few hours. I also made her the False teeth pattern I got here on this site! http://crochetme.com/patterns/false-teeth And a Cuddly syringe from http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=93478.0
Materials List
Materials:
White worsted weight yarn, small amounts of red and black yarn or embroidery floss, size 4.50mm hook, tapestry needle.
Finished Size
Size: 3 ½ inches tall.
Gauge
Gauge: not important. I tend to crochet tight, so gauge may vary.
Notes
Note: All done in single chain and in both loops, working in rounds.
The Pattern
First leg (make 2)
With A, ch 2.
Rnd 1: Work 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Place marker for beg of rnd
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around
Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 4 times
Rnd 4: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) 4 times
Rnd 5: (Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) 4 times
Rnd 6: Sc in each st, inc 4 sc evenly spaced around
Fasten off and repeat for second leg. When finished second leg, DO NOT FASTEN OFF.
Join legs together with a slip stitch.
Sc around for next 10 rows. Stuff.
Rnd 16: *sc dec in next2 sc, sc in next 4 sc. Repeat to end of round (were marker is).
Rnd 17: *Sc dec in next 2 sc, sc in next 3 sc. Repeat to end of round.
Rnd 18: *Sc dec in next 2 sc, sc in next 2 sc. Repeat to end of round.
Rnd 19: *Sc dec in next 2 sc, sc in next 1 sc. Repeat to end of round. Add more stuffing.
Rnd 20: *Sc dec in next 2 sc. Repeat till opening is closed. Fasten off.
Finishing: Embroider eyes and mouth. You can add a toothbrush if you like.
I'll try to post a photo when I down load it from my camera.
Amigurumi Squid
Author
Katherine Gleason
Introduction
Cephalopods are my favorite kind of animal; they're the most intelligent invertebrates, and their eyes are comparable to human eyes. Plus, their blood is blue-green! For the more zoologically inclined, they're actually members of the mollusk phylum, with clams and snails. I thought a cuttlefish might be a bit ambitious, but a squid seemed relatively easy, and I couldn't find any patterns of them online. To that end, I made my own! His name's Calvin, and he's the sweetest squid a girl could ask for!
The pattern includes some texture on the arms, but I'm not sure how it would look in solid-colored yarn - the multicolored yarn makes it a little hard to see.
Materials List
- Size F/3.75 mm hook
- Worsted weight yarn (any color!)
- 2 buttons, plus needle & thread (or yarn, depending on size of buttons)
- Polyfil stuffing
- yarn needle
Finished Size
About 14" (36 cm) from head to tip of tentacles, about 3 1/2" (9 cm) across the fins, body is about 2 1/2" (6 cm) in diameter, arms & tentacles are about 1/2" (1 cm) in diameter; Size may vary if different yarn/hook size used and number of repeated rounds per part
Gauge
stitches should be tight - other yarn weights/hook sizes could be easily substituted, as long as stitches are tight enough to prevent stuffing from showing/falling out!
Notes
All rounds worked without joining unless otherwise noted - use a stitch marker to keep track of rounds
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
blo = back loop only
fpsc = "front post" single crochet - insert hook from front around post of sc below, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook
sc dec = sc decrease - same as sc 2 tog - insert hook in next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook in 2nd stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 3 loops on hook
dc = double crochet
st = stitch/stitches
The Pattern
Body
ch 2, sc 4 into second chain from hook - DO NOT JOIN!
Round 1: sc 2 in next sc, *sc in next sc, ch 2, sc in second ch, sc in same sc (next to "sc in next sc"), repeat from * once, sc 2 in next sc (8 st around, plus 1 sc off sides - these will become the fins)
Round 2: (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) 2 times, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 2 times (12 st around)
Round 3: sc in next 4 sc, *sc in sc & ch of fin, ch 1, turn, sc in 2 sc of fin*, sc in next 5 sc, repeat from * to *, sc in final 3 sc (12 st around + 2 st in each fin)
Round 4: sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 2 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc (15 st around)
Round 5: sc in next 5 sc, *2 sc in fin, ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc of fin*, sc in next 7 sc, repeat from * to *, sc in last 3 sc (15 st around + 3 in each fin)
Round 6: (sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 3 times (18 st around)
Round 7: sc in next 6 sc, *3 sc in fin, ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc of fin*, sc in next 8 sc, repeat from * to *, sc in last 4 sc (18 st around + 4 in each fin)
Round 8: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (21 st around)
Round 9: sc in next 7 sc, *sc in 4 of fin, ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc of fin*, sc in next 9 sc, repeat from * to *, sc in next 5 sc (21 st around + 5 in each fin)
Round 10: (sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 3 times (24 st around)
Round 11: sc in next 8 sc, *sc in 4 of fin, sl st in last sc, ch 1, turn, sc in 3 of fin*, sc in next 10 sc, repeat from * to *, sc in next 6 sc (24 st around + dec to 3 in each fin)
Rounds 12-26: sc in each sc; after last round, sl st in next sc, fasten off (24 st around; 15 rows or desired length)
Sew on button eyes (it's easier at this point!)
Arms (make 8)
ch 2, 3 sc in second ch from hook
Round 1: 2 sc in each sc around (6 st)
Round 2: sc in each sc around (6 st)
Round 3: sc in next 2 sc, sc in blo, sc in next 3 sc (6 st)
Rounds 4-23: repeat row 3 for 20 rounds or desired length; after last round, sl st in next sc, fasten off
Tentacles (make 2)
ch 2, 2 sc in second ch from hook
Row 1: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first sc, sc in second sc (3 st)
Row 2: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc (5 st)
Row 3: ch 1, turn, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, repeat from * across (8 st)
Row 4: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10 st)
Row 5: ch 1, turn, sc across (10 st)
Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc dec, sc in next 6 sc, sc dec (8 st)
Row 7: ch 1, turn, sc in next sc, fpdc in next sc, dc in next sc, ch 1 , sl st in next 2 sc, ch 1, dc in next sc, fpdc in next sc, sc in next sc (8 st + 2 ch)
Row 8: turn, sl st across to sl st from previous row, sc in 2 sl st of row 7 (2 st + 4 sl st)
Row 9: ch 1, turn, sc in 2 sc, turn, fpsc aound 2 sc of row 8 (4 st; use stitch marker to begin marking rows)
Round 10: 2 sc in first sc of row 9, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc (6 st)
Rounds 11-40: sc in each sc around for 30 rows or to desired length (6 st)
Round 41: sc around, sl st, fasten off
Bottom
ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook, sl st in first sc
Round 1: ch 1, *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around, sl st in ch 1 (9 st)
Round 2: ch 1, *sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around, sl st in ch 1 (12 st)
Round 3: ch 1, *sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around, sl st in ch 1 (15 st)
Round 4: ch 1, *sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around, sl st in ch 1 (18 st)
Round 5: ch 1, *sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around, sl st in ch 1 (21 st)
Round 6: ch 1, *sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around, sl st in ch 1, fasten off (24 st)
Finishing
- stuff tentacles & sew to center of bottom
- stuff arms & sew around circumference of bottom
- stuff body & begin sewing on bottom
- when body & bottom are nearly sewn together, finish stuffing and sew up seam between body & bottom
- weave in ends
- think of a cute name!
Amigurumi Chick/Baby Bird
Author
Introduction
Just in time for Easter, you can make cute little baby birds or chicks! These guys are perfect for stuffing Easter baskets or just putting on your desk at work.
Materials List
* A small amount of yellow (chick) or blue (baby bird) yarn, double-knitting weight
* A very small amount of black yarn, same weight as above
* A small amount of polyester stuffing
* 2.50 mm crochet hook
* Tapestry needle
* 1 pipe cleaner, orange (chick) or yellow (baby bird)
It doesn't really matter what type of yarn you use or what size hook you use; it will just change the size of the finished bird. I would suggest you use whatever yarn you can find, and use the smallest hook that you have that won't split the yarn when you work with it. The bird in the picture was made with 100% acrylic DK yarn and a 2.50 mm crochet hook, and stands about 1-1/2 inches tall.
Finished Size
Again, the finished size depends on the type of yarn and hook you use. It will be about 1-1/2 to 2 inches tall.
Gauge
Gauge is not used in this pattern.
Notes
Please note that this bird is intended to be enjoyed by adults and older children only. Because there may be sharp ends on the pipe cleaners, I would avoid giving it to a child under three. (Also, if your kids are anything like mine is, they'll be quite good at pulling its little eyes out.)
This bird is worked in spiral rounds, so do not join at the end of each round. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
Abbreviations used:
mr: make a ring
sc: single crochet
st: stitch
inc: increase
invdec: invisible decrease
The Pattern
Making the body:
Make a ring, and work 6 sc into the ring. (6 st)
Rnd 1: 2 sc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 2: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st) 6 times. (18)
Rnds 3-6: inc 3 times evenly. (30 st at the end of rnd 6)
Rnds 7-8: work even. (30)
Rnds 9-12: invdec 3 times evenly. (18 st at the end of rnd 12)
Rnd 13: (invdec over next 2 st, sc in next st) 6 times. (12)
At this point, cut the yarn about 20 cm from your work, and pull the loop on your crochet hook bigger and bigger until the tail of the yarn comes through and you're left with a single strand coming out of your work.
Cut a 2" length of pipe cleaner and fold it in half; this will be your beak. Insert the two ends between rounds 7 and 8, two posts apart. Push the beak in until it's of the desired size, then twist the ends together inside so they're secure. Cut off any excess pipe cleaner.
With the tapestry needle and the black yarn, embroider a French knot for each eye, using the photo as a guide to placement. Don't forget to use a dab of craft glue on each French knot to hold it together, or it is likely to unravel.
Making and inserting the feet:
This part of the pattern is the most difficult to describe, so I've drawn a diagram:
The long and short of it is: use the remaining pipe cleaner to fashion two three-toed birds' feet, with the leg sticking upright, using the photo as a guide to the shape of the feet.
The legs should be placed between rounds 11 and 12, 9 posts apart. To fix them in place, push the leg through the fabric, then twist it into a loop, which then lies flat against the fabric on the inside. I like to think of this configuration kind of like how you would imagine a snake coiled up in the bottom of a basket. Anyway, this whole exercise is to ensure that the leg can't simply be pulled out, so any way you can accomplish that is sufficient.
Finishing the body:
Now that you've finished the eyes, beak and feet, you can stuff your bird with a bit of polyester stuffing, and close the hole. I like to under-stuff these birds because they make quite good stress toys and they're fun to squeeze!
Close the hole by threading the end of your yarn onto a tapestry needle and inserting it through the front loop only of each st around. Pull the yarn tight, and the hole will close naturally. Then weave in the ends.
Making the wings (optional):
It's up to you whether you choose to put wings on your bird; some people insist they're just as cute without. If you would like to add wings, as in the picture, here's how you do it:
Make a ring, and work 6 sc into the ring. (6 st)
Rnd 1: 2 sc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 2: work even. (12)
Rnd 3: sc in the first 6 st, ch 1. Now, pinch the fabric together and for the next 6 st, stitch through both layers of the fabric. You will have stitched the wing closed, into a half-circle shape.
Fasten off, leaving a 20 cm tail. Repeat for the second wing.
To finish the bird, whipstitch the wings to its sides, using the photo as a guide.
Pisces Kitten
Author
CrochetKitten.com
Introduction
Life is always fun with a Pisces around. You never know what she's going to do next!
Materials List
Color A – 1 skein (120 yd) 4/worsted weight yarn
Color B - scrap 4/worsted weight yarn
Color C - scrap 4/worsted weight yarn
Size F-5 (3.75 mm) crochet hook
Felt (optional)
2 15-mm amigurumi eyes
Polyester fiberfill or stuffing of choice
Yarn needle
Stitch markers
Finished Size
About 7.5” tall.
Gauge
Not necessary.
Notes
The Pattern
Eye Love My Cat
Author
CrochetKitten.com
Introduction
Is Kitty getting into the yarn again? Now she can have her very own yarn toy to keep her entertained!
Materials List
White: 120 yd 4/worsted weight yarn
Iris Color: Scrap 4/worsted weight yarn
Black: Scrap 4/worsted weight yarn
Size F-5 (3.75 mm) crochet hook
Two ¾-inch jingle bells
Three craft feathers
Stitch markers
Yarn needle
Polyester fiberfill or stuffing of choice
Clear adhesive tape
Optional: Non-toxic white craft glue
Finished Size
About 3 inches in diameter.
Gauge
Not necessary.
Notes
The Pattern
Aries Kitten
Author
CrochetKitten.com
Introduction
Aries is a take-charge type of gal with a good head on her shoulders. She follows her dreams with enthusiasm.
Materials List
MC – 1 skein (120 yd) 4/worsted weight yarn
CC - scrap 4/worsted weight yarn
Size F-5 (3.75 mm) crochet hook
Felt (optional)
2 15-mm amigurumi eyes
Polyester fiberfill or stuffing of choice
Yarn needle
Stitch markers
Finished Size
About 7.5” tall.
Gauge
Not necessary.
Notes
Pattern is worked continuously without joining or turning between rounds. To help keep track of your stitches, it may be helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning of each round.
The Pattern
Yellow Ladybug
Author
Stacey Chaffee
Introduction
I know so many people who love ladybugs but I could never find a great pattern, so here it is!
Materials List
a ball of yarn about the size of your fist in any color you choose and black
crochet hook size H/8
yarn needle
polyfill
Finished Size
Roughly 6" x 4" x 2"
Gauge
Gauge is unimportant since this is a toy
Notes
On round one for the body, head and dots you may find the instructions confusing or difficult. If this is the case you can use these ones instead:
ch 2, sc six times in sec ch from hook, mark first sc with a scrap of yarn in a different color so you know where the round begins
ABBREVIATIONS
sc - single crochet
scs - single crochets
rnd - round
ch - chain
slpst - slip stitch
sec - secound
lp - loop
The Pattern
GETTING STARTED
BODY
RND 1: With the color of your choice make a loop in the yarn. Hold the yarn together where it crosses. Make sure the tail is on the right and the ball end on the left. sc six times in the lp, mark first sc with a scrap of yarn in a different color so you know where the round begins
RND 2: sc twice in next six sc (12 sc)
RND 3: *sc in next sc, sc twice in next sc*, repeat from * to * around (18 sc)
RND 4:*sc in next two scs, sc twice in next sc*, repeat from * to * around (24 sc)
RND 5:*sc in next three scs, sc twice in next sc*, repeat from * to * around (30 sc)
RND 6:*sc in next four scs, sc twice in next sc*, repeat from * to * around (36 sc)
RND 7:*sc in next five scs, sc twice in next sc, repeat from * to * around (42 sc)
RNDS 8-10:sc in next sc and in each sc around (42 sc)
join with slpst to next sc, finish off
RND 11: join black with slpst to any sc, *skip next sc, sc in next 6 scs*, repeat from * to * around (36 sc)
RND 12:*skip next sc, sc in the next 5 scs*, repeat from * to * around (30 sc)
RND 13:*skip next sc, sc in the next 4 scs*, repeat from * to * around (24 scs)
RND 14:*skip next sc, sc in the next 3 scs*, repeat from * to * around (18 scs)
RND 15:*skip next sc, sc in the next 2 scs*, repeat from * to * around (12 scs)
Before you close off the body stuff it now.
RND 16:*skip next sc, sc in next sc*, repeat from * to * around (6 scs)
RND 17:sc in next sc and in every sc following, finish off and close remaining hole.
THE BODY IS FINISHED!
HEAD
RND 1: With black, make a loop in the yarn. Hold the yarn together where it crosses. Make sure the tail is on the right and the ball end on the left. sc six times in the lp, mark first sc with a scrap of yarn in a different color so you know where the round begins
RND 2:sc twice in next sc and in each sc around (12 scs)
RND 3:*sc in next sc, sc twice in next sc*, repeat from * to * around (18 scs)
RND 4:*sc in next 2 scs, sc twice in next sc*, repeat from * to * around (24 scs)
RND 5-7:sc in each sc around
RND 8:*skip next sc, sc in next 3 scs*, repeat from * to * around (18 scs)
RND 9:*skip next sc, sc in next 2 scs*, repeat from * to * around (12 scs)
Stuff head then continue to round 10
RND 10:*skip next sc, sc in next sc*, repeat from * to * around
(6 scs)
finsih off and attach head to body
ANTENNE (MAKE 2)
With black ch 4, sc in sec ch from hook andin next 2 scs, finish off and attach to head
LEGS (MAKE 6)
With black ch 8, sc in sec ch from hook and in next 6 scs, finish off and attach to body
BIG DOTS (MAKE 2)
RND 1: With black, make a loop in the yarn. Hold the yarn together where it crosses. Make sure the tail is on the right and the ball end on the left. sc six times in the lp
RND 2: sc twice in next 6 scs, join to next sc with a slpst, finish off and attach to sides of body
SMALL DOTS (MAKE 5)
with black, ch 2, sc 6 times in sec ch from hook, slpst in next sh, finish off and sew onto body where you think it looks best.
Stitch on face with scraps of yarn.
YOUR LADYBUG IS NOW FINISHED!!!!
False Teeth
Author
Introduction
A friend of mine asked me to crochet some spare teeth for him (strange, I know) and this is what I came up with!
I'm very very new to crochet so bear with me. I did this mostly on the fly, making it up as I went along. This pattern should be considered more of a guide. Gague isn't important, and neither is yarn type. It just depends on how big and fuzzy you want you false teeth to be! I welcome any suggestions to better this one. The teeth had me scratching my head for awhile and I'm still convinced there's a better way!
This is my first pattern I've ever submitted, so all suggestions are welcome...
Materials List
I used the following materials:
3.5mm hook
Sirdar Supersoft Baby Double Knitting wool in red for the gums
King Cole (a beige color, didn't make a note of the name) for the teeth
Finished Size
The finished size is totally up to you! As far as I can tell, no standard has been set for crochet false teeth :o)
Gauge
Gauge doesn't matter for this pattern
Notes
The Pattern
Gums: (make 2)
Chain 26, sc in 2nd stitch from hook.
sc in each stitch (24sc)
In the last stitch, 4sc
sc in the other side of each stitch
Continue crocheting in rounds until your oval is desired size (when folded in half) for the bottom 'gum'.
Finish off.
Ch 4, sc in 2nd stitch from hook.
1 sc in each stitch (2sc)
Ch 1, turn
1 sc in each stitch (3sc)
Continue until the strip is long enough to join your oval together when it is folded in half.
Stitch the strip to your oval creating one gum. Make sure you leave an opening to stuff it with fuzz or old yarn before you stitch it up.
And do it all over again for your second gum!
Teeth: (top)
Ch 2, 2 dc in 2nd stitch from hook
In the same stitch as last 2 dc, 1hdc and 1 sc
Chain 4
In 3rd stitch from hook, 2 dc, 1hdc, 1sc
Repeat this until you have twice as many teeth as you need for the upper gum.
Once you finish off, fold the strip together and stitch them together so 2 teeth become 1 tooth. Stitch these to your upper gum.
Teeth: (bottom)
These are the same as the top, but you don't have to stitch 2 teeth together to make one tooth. Just make enough to peek out the bottom. Making a whole row will make the mouth to look too full.
Butters the Squirrel
Author
Becky Miller
Introduction
A cute squirrel to brighten up anyone's day!!!
Materials List
Worsted weight yarn in squirrel color and black (I USED RED HEART SOFT)
Size G (4.00mm) hook
Animal Eyes--you can also embroider them
Stuffing
Yarn Needle
Finished Size
About 9" tall
Gauge
Keep stitches tight so that stuffing doesn't show through.
Notes
*All is worked right side out. You may want to use a smaller hook, which will make the stitches tighter.*
Key:
ch: chain
st: stitch
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
inc: increase
dec: decrease
fo: fasten off
The Pattern
Head
1. Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook~ 6
2. *inc*~ 12
3. *Sc in 1st st, inc in the next* around~ 18
4. Sc in first 2 sts, inc in next* around~ 24
5. *Sc in first 3 sts, inc in next* around~ 30
6-9. Sc around~ 30
10. *Sc in first 4 sts, inc in next* around~ 36
11-13. Sc around~ 36
14. *Sc in first 4 sts, dec* around~ 30
15. *dec* around~ 15
16. *sc in first st, dec* around~ 10
17. *dec* around~ 5
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Ears (Make 2)
1. Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook~ 6
2. *inc* around~ 12
3-7. Sc around~ 12
Sl st, FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Body
1. Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook~ 6
2. *inc*~ 12
3. *Sc in 1st st, inc in the next* around~ 18
4. *Sc in first 2 sts, inc in next* around~ 24
5. *Sc in first 3 sts, inc in next* around~ 30
6. *Sc in first 4 sts, inc in next* around~ 36
7-12. Sc around~ 36
13. *Sc in first 4 sts, dec over next 2* around~ 30
14. Sc around~ 30
15. *Sc in first 3 sts, dec over next 2* around~ 24
16. *Sc in first 2 sts, dec over next 2* around~ 18
17. *Sc in first st, dec over next 2* around~ 12
18-21. Sc around~ 12
Fasten off, weave in the end.
Arms (Make 2)
1. Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook~ 6
2-8. Sc in each sc around~ 6
(The arms have a total of 42 sts around)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Legs (Make 2)
1. Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook~ 6
2-9. Sc in each sc around~ 6
(The legs have a total of 48 sts around)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Tail
1. Ch 7. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, and in next 4 sts; 3 sc in last, turning to the underside of the ch; sc in last 5~ 13
2-23. 1 hdc in each st around~ 13
Make sure to stuff along the way! Leave 1-2” un-stuffed-this will be sewn to the body.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Assembly
Using the pictures as a guide, sew ears to head. Sew head to body. Add on arms and feet to appropriate areas. Looking at picture, sew tail to body.
SPECIAL TAIL NOTES: Sew the smallest amount of the top of the tail down, so it looks like it is curling down. Sew that part to the head w/ only one or two sts. The un-stuffed part will be sewn to bottom/back of body.
NOTE: You can make this squirrel any way you want!!! The ears could be made longer, tail bigger, eyes larger, ect. Feel free to be creative!
The Mighty Ferocious Dragon
Author
Becky Miller
Introduction
A small dragon to hang out where-ever you go!
Materials List
Soft worsted weight yarn in dragon color and alternating color
Size D (3-3.25mm) hook
Stuffing
Yarn Needle
Animal Eyes (optional)
Finished Size
About 4" LONG, 1 1/2" TALL
Gauge
Keep stitches tight so that stuffing doesn't show through.
Notes
*This pattern has not been tested!*
*All is worked right side out. Please look at the notes on bottom of page BEFORE starting your dragon.*
Key:
ch: chain
st: stitch
sc: single crochet
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
inc: increase
dec: decrease
fo: fasten off
The Pattern
Head & Body
1. Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook~ 6
2. In BLO, sc around~ 6
3. Sc around~ 6
4. (Hdc, dc) in first st, (dc, hdc) in next, sc in last 4 sts~ 8
5. 1 sc, *ch2, sc in 2nd ch from hook*, 1 sc, **, sc in next 2, dec, dec~ 6
6. 1 sc, *going behind the ear, sl st*,**, sc in last 3 sts~ 6
STUFF HEAD!!!
7-9. Sc around~ 6
10. *inc* around~ 12
11. *sc in first st, inc* around~ 18
12-15. Sc around~ 18
16.*sc in first st, dec* around~ 12
17. *dec* around~ 6
18-25. Sc around~ 6
26. Sc 1, dec, sc 1, dec, dec
Yes, this goes into the next round!
Fasten off, weave in the ends.
Wings (Make 2)
1. Leaving a long tail, ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch. Turn~ 9
2. Ch 1, sc in next 7. Turn~ 7
3. Ch 1, sc across. Turn~ 7
4. Ch 1, sc in next 5.
Fasten off, weaving in the shorter tail.
Spine
With alternating color, attach to the end of the tail. Do *1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc* across until you reach the head. Fasten off, weave in the ends.
Feet (Make 4)
1. Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook~ 6
2. Sc in first 2, inc, sc in next 2, inc~ 8
3-4. Sc around~ 8
5. Sc in first 2, dec, sc in next 2, dec~ 6
6. Sc around~ 6
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
ASSEMBLY
Sew on dragon wings, leaving a space in between. Next, crochet on the spine. Finally, sew on all of the feet.
NOTES:
*I just stuck my animal eyes (without the backings) in, because I’m not giving it to a child. I recommend embroidering on the eyes if giving the dragon to a small child. Otherwise, stick `em in!
*If you think that the tail is too short, go ahead and make it longer! Decorate this baby any way you like!
Tiny Weiner Puppy
Author
Becky Miller
Introduction
A cute little weiner dog to keep you company!
Materials List
Materials
Worsted weight yarn in
`Brown or tan
`Collar color
`Tag Color (For Collar)
Size E (3.50 mm) crochet hook
Stuffing
Animal Eyes (or you can embroider them)
Tapestry Needle
Finished Size
About 4 or 5" long, 2" high
Gauge
Keep stitches tight so that stuffing doesn't show through stitches.
Notes
*All of pattern is worked right-side out. Do not join or ch 1 at ends of rounds unless otherwise indicated!*
If using animal eyes, place them between rounds 5 & 6*
Key:
ch: chain
st: stitch
sc: single crochet
inc: increase
dec: decrease
FO: fasten off
The Pattern
Head:
1) Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6)
2) 2 sc in each sc around (12)
3) *2 sc in 1st st, 1 sc in next st* around (18)
4) *2 sc in 1st st, sc in next 2 sts* around (24)
5-8) sc in each sc around
9) *sc dec over the next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts* around (18)
10) *sc dec over the next 2 sts, sc in next st* around (12)
STUFF
11) sc in the next 12, sl st. (12) Ch 1, turn
12) sc in the next 4, ch 1, turn (4)
13-14) sc in each st across, ch 1, turn (4)
15) 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2, 2 sc in last st, ch 1, turn (6)
16) sc in each st across. (6) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Body:
1) Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6)
2) 2 sc in each sc around (12)
3) *2 sc in next st, sc in next st* around (18)
4–20) sc in each sc around (18)
STUFF
21) *sc dec* around (9)
22) repeat round 21, sc in last st (5)
Sl st in next st, fasten off, weave in the ends.
SEW HEAD ON BODY WITH NECK COVERING ROUND 22.
Snout
1)Ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook (5)
2) 2 sc in each sc around (10)
3) Sc in each sc around (10)
4) *sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st* 2 times (12)
5-6) Sc in each sc around (12)
Sl st in next st, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Legs (Make 4):
1) Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6)
2-6) sc in each sc around (6)
Sl st in next st, fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Stuff each leg firmly.
Ears (Make 2):
1) Ch 2, 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook. (4)
2) 2 sc in each sc around (8)
3) Repeat round 2 (16)
4-5) Sc in each sc around. Sl st in next st, fasten off, leaving a LONG tail for sewing.
Tail:
Ch 10. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook, and in next ch. Sc in last 7 sts. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Collar:
With collar color, ch 15. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, and in each ch across. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Tag
Join tag color on the underside of the middle chain of collar. (About the 7th or 8th st) Ch 4, and sl st in same st. Fasten off, weave in the ends.
Assembly
1)Sew 2 legs onto front of dog, and 2 legs onto back of dog. Use pictures to help with placement.
2) Press ear flat, and sew up the opening. Sew ears on both sides of head, making sure the ‘pointy’ part of the ear is facing towards the dogs’ bottom. The ears should be a little bit tacked down, so they don’t look they are wings on his head.
3) Sew snout to front of puppy’s face, using pictures if needed. *When sewing on snout, every couple of sts, put needle between 2 sts at a time...kind of like decreasing. Then sew on his nose with black or dark brown yarn.
4) Sew tail to puppy’s bottom. The pointy end of the tail should be pointing towards the head.
5) Wrap collar around dog’s neck. Sew ends together.
6) Embroider on eyes, if not using doll eyes.



