Until a few weeks ago, I thought “alternative fibers” meant eyelash yarn. Oh, how I was mistaken. Alternative fibers really mean anything you can get your hands on to crochet and knit with except yarn. The only limitation is your own creativity. My awakening happened at the Crochet and Knitting Conference in Valley Forge. My mom, sister, cousin, and I took a class on “alternative fibers.” It was fantastic. It was like being in camp again, sitting around the fire talking while trying to make lanyards; except there was no fire and we were trying to crochet with the gimp instead. Since then, I’ve been a woman on a mission. The mission is to crochet every material, paper to plastic, in sight. Recently, when Mother’s Day came around, I wanted to make my mom something with alternative fibers to say thank you for bringing me to class. That’s when these coasters were born.

I chose black flagging tape for my mom’s coasters. I wanted them to resemble the black bamboo mats that she bought and I wanted them to be waterproof, to be used outside. Flagging tape is a heavy plastic ribbon (no adhesive on any side) that surveyors, gardeners, and hikers use to mark off areas. You can easily find it in any hardware store (gardening aisle), sports store (camping/climbing aisle), or eBay - where you can find anything. Once I finished these, I tried grocery bags just for fun (shown in photo, above). The grocery bags coaster uses both plies of the bag (one seemed too flimsy). For yours, feel free to try any alternative fiber, like hemp, curling ribbon, or twine. Just think about the fabric and the use you want to achieve. One last note, if you are new to Tunisian crochet, I would recommend trying the pattern with yarn first. Yarn is much easier to work with to master the stitch.

US pattern notation used
Ch = chain
Yo = Yarn Over
Sl st = Slip stitch
TSS = Tunisian simple stitch – insert hook under next vertical bar, YO, pull up loop. For more information, see tutorial in April/May ’05 issue.

“Basket Weave” Coaster

Missing wildflowers and deep starry skies combined with concern about the buy-it-now nature of the modern world, I set about to create something lovely from the cast-offs of many summers still lurking in my closet. The whole process was magic, from cooking up small vats of shirts on my stovetop, stirring a steaming purple cauldron from time to time, to musing about the life lived in all these clothes. One tank top’s yellowed straps led me back to a Mexican beach not far from Guatemala where I swam with manta rays and silver fish, first saw an armadillo, and finally said goodbye in the midst of orcas dancing. Another was my favorite evening shirt when I lived in a tipi at the edge of Montana mountains. Oil paint stains on another are recent evidence of my first art show last spring.

I invite you to take some time to reminisce, poke around the corners of your home (and possibly your friends’ homes) and work up this little treasure of a rug. It is extremely easy (if you’ve ever made a granny square, you’ll catch on right away). You can keep your shirt colors as they are or dye them using fabric dye or natural materials. The finished rug is about 90cm (36in) across and is the perfect size for meditation or moonlight readings, or more mundane situations like next to your bathtub. If you can’t find enough materials, or end up with way too many, you can easily change the size by subtracting or adding rows.

• At least 18 adult shirts. I used 1 men’s large T-shirt, 4 medium women’s long-sleeve shirts, and 13 tank tops. Cotton is best for dying.
• Hook size: I made my own hook from a dowel, it is 8mm in diameter. Any rug hook will work, though, as gauge isn’t crucial. Beware that a larger hook will need more yardage in ‘shirt yarn’ though.
• I used RIT dye in aubergine and royal blue, one box of each. You can use any dye you like.
• Notions: You’ll need large, comfy scissors for cutting all those shirts (you may want to wrap a small shirt scrap around the scissor handles). This is a good place to employ non-crocheting family members and friends…

First two rows equals 25cm (10in) in diameter.

US terms used
Ch - chain
Dc - double crochet means one yarnover, not two.
Sl st – slip stitch

Bellflower Rug Pattern

This rug is a process, albeit a simple one, so give yourself a few hours here and there over a few days and all will be copasetic.

This is a fun project that you can do in an afternoon. You can decorate a pillow you already have or buy one that will highlight your corsage. There are two versions to complement different pillow shapes. If you are using a small pillow, you can omit the outer petals to scale down the flower. A lighter weight yarn can also be used if you want a smaller, more delicate flower, which would make a lovely pin for a coat or jacket.

• A pillow of your choice
• Worsted/ chunky weight yarn for the Flower:
  • Center- 5½ yds
  • Middle petals- 16½ yds
  • Inner petals- 9 yds
  • Outer petals- 24 yds
  • Center detail -1¼ yds + ½ yd in 1-2 (depending on version) other yarns for embroidery embellishment
• A medium weight novelty or chenille yarn for the:
  • Center trim- 2½ yds
• Worsted/chunky weight yarn for the Blossom Spray (Version 2):
  • Blossoms- Four 1yd lengths, and one 1¼yd length of yarns used to make the flower
  • Stems- 2 lengths of yarn, one 25” and the other 20”
• One bead for the center of the flower (Version 1)
• Ribbon-in 1”-1½” width, long enough to wrap around your pillow and tie in a generous bow in the back.
• Crochet hook size G (4mm) - size can be adjusted according to the yarn you are using
• Tapestry needle
• Transparent nylon thread
• Sewing needle

US terminology is used in this pattern
st(s)= stitch (es)
ch= chain
sl st= slip stitch
sc= single crochet
hdc= half double crochet
dc= double crochet
tr= triple crochet
dtr=double treble crochet
beg= beginning
rep= repeat
fol= following
lp(s)= loop(s)
sk= skip
bet= between

The inspiration for these simple but colourful flowers didn’t come from my garden as much as from my children’s drawings. It was clear to me from the start that both colours and shapes should be bold.

They can be worked up in the yarn of your choice, and used in any way you want. Sew them on a garment, a bag, a pillow, a hat… I spread them on a table cloth, to make sure my kitchen table will remind us that is summer, even during grey and rainy days.

These flowers can be varied almost endlessly. Play around with different colours, different-sized centers or petals, and mix them with other motifs.

I used DMC Petra, which is a #5 cotton thread which comes in plenty of colours. To my knowledge Petra is sold only in Europe, but substitution should be easy since no considerations of gauge need to be made. I worked with a 1.75mm/size 6 hook.

• All colour changes should be initiated in the last stitch before the change of colour noted in the pattern. This means that the last “yarn-over-and-pull-through” in the last stitch of the previous colour should be made with the new colour. In this way, the last stitch of colour A will be completely made up with colour A, and without any “spilling over” to the first stitch in colour B.
• Flowers 1, 2 and 3 start with a loop, instead of a chain in the center. This technique has been clearly explained in a previous issue of Crochet me.
• The centers of flowers 1, 2 and 3 are worked in sc.
• Do not join rounds, except where indicated. Put a marker (e.g. a safety pin) in the first stitch of every round as a guide. Move this marker every round.

This pattern uses US terminology
Ch = chain
Sc = single crochet
Inc = increase, work 2 sts in the same st, increase made
Sl st = slip stitch
St(s) = stitch
Hdc = half double crochet
Dc = double crochet
Sc dec = single crochet decrease: insert hook into next st, yo, pull up loop, insert hook into following st, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Flower 1

Round 1: (fu

The creation of Pillow Belts came as a result of my desire to renew the looks of various rooms as the season’s change, without going broke. Depending on the yarn and/or embellishments you choose, these belts can be made: floral, nautical, funky, fancy, beaded, or elegant.

As the seasons pass, just swap the pillow belts around, and store unused belts with some lavender sachets or cedar to keep moths away and have the belts smelling fantastic the next time they come into rotation.

US pattern conventions used
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
beg - beginning

I have two kids with lots of little things that need to be organized. I made a trip to the craft store for some baskets and I needed medical attention after seeing the prices stores were charging for plain, boring baskets. So, I decided to come up with some on my own using some scrap yarn from my stash. I added the fun fur to make them, well, fun for my kids to use.

Though the instructions given are for a set that would be appropriate for holding changing table supplies, I’ve made these in various sizes from change holders (3x1 inches) to Lego holders (8x10 inches). To change the size, simply adjust the number of rows on the bottom and sides. These will work with any type of worsted weight yarn and fun fur combo. Just make sure that the hook is several sizes smaller than recommended on the label on the worsted weight yarn. This will ensure that the basket is stiff enough to hold the contents.

• 1 skein fun fur/eyelash yarn. Example used Stylecraft Eskimo (50g, 98yds/90m) in ParmaViolet, 1 skein.
• 1 skein 4-ply light worsted weight yarn that matches at least one of the colors in the fun fur. Example used Caron Simply Soft (6oz, 330yds/302m) in Lt. Country Blue, less than 1 skein.
• size D-3 hook
• size C-2 hook
• Stitch marker or a piece of scrap yarn in contrasting color

The gauge is unimportant as long as you work as tightly as you can without damaging the yarn. The tighter you can make it, the sturdier the container will be.

Pattern is written using US conventions
Ch = chain
Sc = single crochet
Foll = following
Sl st = slip stitch

While this pattern is not technically difficult, the fact that you are using a hook that is too small for the yarn will probably result in sore fingers. If this is a problem, work on it a little bit at a time, or wrap the “grip” section of your hook in several layers of tape to make it wider and softer on your fingers. (Ed. note: We wrote about a nifty grip in the blog a few months back.)

Round Container

With worsted

Even tough big boys need some special attention when they become big brothers. Put some bath crayons in a bag just for him, toss in a washcloth, and bath time will be a celebration of big brotherhood!

Gone Wild Washcloth

• Lily Sugar’n Cream cotton yarn (2½ oz/70g per 120yd/109m), one ball each of (A) Red, (B) Bright Navy, (C) Yellow, and (D) Dark Pine, or colors of your choice
• Size H (5.00 mm) hook
• Yarn needle to weave in ends

Mini Messenger Bag

• Lily Sugar’n Cream (2 ½ oz/70 g per 120 yd/109 m), one ball of Dark Pine
• Size H (5.00 mm)
• Stitch marker (optional)
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Optional Velcro or button for closure

One size.

Gauge is unimportant in this pattern.

US Pattern Notations UsedUS Pattern Notations Used
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
sc = single crochet
sc2tog = single crochet two together (decrease)
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)  

The bag body is made in a spiral. If you would like, mark the first stitch of the row with a stitch marker to keep track of your row counts.

Begin Washcloth

With A, ch 30

Row 1: sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in each st across (29 sts)

A washcloth and bag with a touch of spring make new big sisters feel special, too.

• Lily Sugar’n Cream cotton yarn (2 ½ oz/70 g per 120 yd/109 m), one ball each of (A) White, (B) Sunshine, and (C) Soft Violet.
• Size H (5.00 mm) hook
• Yarn needle to weave in ends

One size.

Gauge is unimportant in this pattern.

US Pattern Notations Used
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)

Special Instructions:
When changing colors at the end of the row, drop the first color and do not cut. You will pick it up on the appropriate row/color change throughout the pattern. The edging will cover the excess yarn.

Begin

With A, ch 31

Every pregnant woman in this world should have her own little pillow to carry around or keep on the sofa for quick (or extensive) naps – you’re just so tired when your pregnant.

Thinking about it, expecting fathers need one too. Both parents would be wise to "stock up" on sleep. There will be so little of that once the baby arrives.

• Yarn: Phildar Coton Micro Fibres. 129 m/141 yds per 50 g/1,76 oz ball. 50% cotton, 50% acrylic.
  3 balls each of Ecru (color A below) and Lin (color B below)
  If substituting yarn, choose one that is easily washable.
• Hook: I used a 3mm hook, which is between a C-2 and a D-3 US hook.
• Zipper
• Pillow form or fill
• Needle

40x40 cms/15 ¾ x 15 ¾ inches

26 stitches and 25 rows in single crochet = 10 cms/4 inches

The pattern uses US terminology
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
sl st = slip stitch

About the design: The front part of this cushion cover is loosely based on the classical quilt pattern known as "Log Cabin". You make a square in the center and then crochet strips around it. When I made it, it felt like some kind of structured free-form (if you can imagine free-form in a single type of yarn and only two colors) – I even wondered whether I should make a formal pattern of it or not. I finally decided to tell you exactly what I did, though, even though your own choices could give an equally good, or better, result.

Should you choose to follow the "pattern table" below, don’t worry too much about achieving exactly the same number of stitches as I did. I’d even advise you to try to get a bit below my numbers on strips 18 and 20. Ahem. But a good blocking should straighten everything out, as it did for me.

Notes

• In order to tell the right side from the wrong, and the "top" from the "bottom", I fastened a safety pin on the right side of the fabric, with the closure oriented towards the "top" according to the schematic.
• Each strip will be fastened off at the end, with the new strip begun with a sl st in the upper right corner.
• All strips should start on the "right" side, except where indicated.
• Work over ends as you work each strip.

Special stitches used:

This schematic shows how the front of the pillow is constructed:

Pattern

Front of pillow

Strip number The author has licensed this page under a Creative Commons License. Some rights reserved. The Mommy Blanket Submitted by Crochet Me Admin on 3 January 2006 - 8:36am. Categorized As: 2005 April/May For women 3 - Light 4 - Medium Afghans & Blankets Blend Home Decor Author by Josi Hannon Madera Introduction A Mommy Blanket is an afghan you create for a pregnant woman or new mom. It's a gift for her and her alone and has nothing to do with babies. It isn't cutesy (unless that's her style) and it is barely practical, although entirely comforting. It should be made from yarn too nice for baby puke, and in colors and a stitch pattern that reflects the pre-parent personality of the recipient. The best Mommy Blankets also have foot pockets. Obviously, any afghan can be a Mommy Blanket. For this article I've written up the pattern I designed for my latest Mommy Blanket -- a 3-color crocheted plaid. This afghan is built up from strips which use front-post stitches to achieve a woven effect. (A hint to those who dabble with PhotoShop -- copy Diagram A below and use the color switcher to test different color combinations.) Materials List 1600 yds - DK or Light Worsted weight yarn, color A (shown using Lion Brand Imagine in Moss) 500 yds - DK or Light Worsted weight yarn, color B (shown using Patons Classic Merino in Winter White) 300 yds - DK or Light Worsted weight yarn, color C (shown using Patons Classic Merino in Old Gold) 5.50mm (US-I) hook Finished Size Finished size with border is 42" wide x 50" long Gauge Follow instructions for Strip 1 to end of Row 17. 9 stitches = 2.75 inches 8 rows = 2.25 inches Notes US pattern notations used (click on db-ch or tr/rf for a tutorial) sl st = slip stitch ch = chain db-ch = double base chain sc = single crochet hdc = half double crochet tr/rf = front post triple The Pattern « first‹ previous1234567next ›last » Search User login Username: * Password: * Create new account Request new password Get Our eNewsletter Lots of tips and techniques to help you learn even more about crochet ... and it's FREE! Enter your email address: About Contact Copyright Policy Email Newsletter FAQ Privacy Policy Sitemap Terms & Conditions The Book Copyright Unless otherwise stated, the content of this site is licensed under a Creative Commons License, 2009. Some rights reserved. Subscribe to Feed