This one is an easy stashbusting project which was originally intended to be a Crocheted Belt. However, since I can only work on my knitting during weekends I had not been able to complete it before I signed up for a Sit 'n Knit Meetup. On the night before the meetup I saw a mail from our group administrator Anne-Marie that there was a cup cozy contest and those of us who get a cup cozy would be given an extra raffle ticket for the yarn draw. Both were good enough insentives for me... :) so in a matter of about 15mins I converted my 3 crocheted squares into a cup cozy.

Worsted Waste Yarn from stash in two colors.

The size of this cozy depends entirely on the yarn that is used. Mine was big enough to hold a medium/ large mug.

Depends on yarn used.

Motif Pattern:
Step1: Chain(ch) 4.
Step2: Join with a slip stitch(ss) to the first chain to form a ring.
Step3: ch1, 12 single chains(sc) in the ring. ss with 1st ch.
Step4: ch3 and 1double crochet (dc) in first sc, *1dc in the next 2 stitches(2), 2dc in the next sc, repeat from * to the end. ss in beginning ch3
Step5: ch3 and 1dc in the first dc, *1dc in the next 3 dc, 2dc in the next dc, repeat from * to the end. ss in beginning ch3. Bind off.

For Cup Cozy:
Make 3 squares.
Join the sides of the three squares to form a ring.
SC around the top edge and bottom edge of the ring. (2rows)
Bind Off
Weave in ends.

(Also available on my blog
http://essknits.blogspot.com/2008/05/crochet-cup-cozy-free-pattern.html)

Wanted to come up with a hanging kawaii amigurumi for the car. This is what resulted.

Mint Tara Yarn
Autumn Boulce
G hook

6 inches tall

Not important to this pattern

Work in Spiral do not join unless noted

Mint Ice cream scoop

Ch 2
6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
2sc in each stitch around (12sc)
1 sc in first stitch , 2 sc in next stitch, around (18sc)
1 sc in first 2 stitches, 2sc in next stitch (24sc)
1 sc in each stitch around working in Back loops only (24sc)
1 sc in each stitch around (repeat 5 times)

Attach safety eyes and stitch on mouth
Stuff as you close up the top Add some lavender buds

1 dec over first two stitches, 1 sc in next stitch around
1sc in each stitch around (16sc)
Dec around (8 dec)
Dec around (4 dec) finish off leaving a tail to sew the top closed.

Cone

Attach yarn to open back loop with a sl st. Ch 1
1 sc in each stitch around join to first sc ch1
1 dec sc over first 2 stitches, 1 sc around join to first dec sc ch 1
1 sc in each stitch around join to first sc ch 1 (16 sc)
1 dec sc over first 2 stitches, 1 sc around join to first dec sc , ch 1
1 sc in each stitch around, join to first sc ch 1 (10sc)
Stuff cone
Dec sc around Join to first dec sc
Sc around (3 times) do not join
Stuff cone tight add some lavender buds
Dec aorund to the end finish off sew in ends

Hang

Now take some extra yarn or ribbon attach to top of the ice cream and hang in your car for a nice kawaii smelling car deodorizer

This scrubby came out of a need for a new one for my kitchen.
I think it works rather well and I really like it.

1 ball Lion Brand Kitchen Cotton*
6 “ wide Tulle* (I used the JoAnn Craft Essentials Tulle Spool,
6” wide in a 20 yard spool)
9 mm crochet hook
Tapestry needle

approx. 4"x4"

not really important for this project.

*Note: I do not recommend using netting. Netting is to stiff and more abrasive than tulle. This pattern uses 2 strands held together, but only 1 ball is needed, so use both ends (the inside and outside) of the cotton.

Holding 2 strands of the cotton together, Ch 17
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in every ch to the end. (16 sc)
Rows 2 & 3: Ch 1, turn, hold tulle on top of row 1, working around the tulle, Sc in each stitch to end of row. (16 sc) Pick up the tulle.
Row 4: Ch 1 with the tulle only and working over the 2 strands of cotton, Sc in each stitch to end of row. (16 sc) Pick up the cotton.
Rows 5 & 6: Ch 1 with the cotton and working over the tulle, Sc in each stitch to end of row. (16 sc) Cut the tulle.
Row 7: Ch 1, Sc in each stitch to end, Finish off.

Edging:
Fold piece in half matching up stitches (8 Sc on top of each side). Working through both sides, join tulle in stitches nearest to fold, placing tail of tulle inside fold. Sc in same stitch as join and in each of next 6 stitches, 3 Sc in corner stitch, working along side, work 5 Sc, 3 Sc in corner, (Note: I recommend stuffing all ends inside scrubby before finishing the last side.)
Sc in next 7 stitches. Optional: Ch 9 and join in last Sc for hanging loop. Finish off.

These are for holding soda cans or whatever is your canned drink preference. The crochet keeps your hands from warming the can, and keeps rings off your tabletops. The handle helps you keep a grip on things!

This handle really works and supports the weight of a full can.

My inspiration for this pattern came by having bought so many of the kind they offer at the store and I thought, "Gee, I would use these more if only they had a handle on them".

Worsted Weight Yarn (number 4 on the label)--two strands worked together
Size K (U.S.) hook (6.5mm)
Yarn or Tapestry Needle

Fits a 12 ounce can of soda pop
approx. 3 1/2 inches tall

Gauge is not given because you will need to test the fit as you work by placing a can inside a few times. What matters most is that it fits the way YOU want it to. I like mine snug but not so tight I have to force the can in or out of it.

Two strands of yarn held together throughout pattern.
Sc is used and sc in back loop only
Sl st
Worked in rounds
Some basic sewing is required, nothing fancy

Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook, join with sl st.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join. (12 sc)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, (sc in first st, 2 sc in next st) around, join. (18 sc)

Rnd 4: Ch 1, (For this rnd only, sc in back loops)work one sc in back loops of each st around, join.

Rnd 5: Ch 1, (working in both loops now and throughout), Sc in each st around, DO NOT JOIN.

Continue in this way until can holder measures approx. 3 1/2 inches tall. Fasten off.

HANDLE

Ch 12, Sc in second ch from hook and in next 9 chs.
Work 3 sc in last ch. Working on opposite side of ch now, sc 9 times in back of beg ch, work 3 sc in end loop. Sc all around once more. Fold handle in half and sc the two long sides together. Fasten off.

Using yarn (or tapestry) needle and two strands of yarn, sew handle to top and bottom of can holder. Be sure to anchor it very well so that it will be sturdy enough to support the full weight of the can. Check the fit of your hand to be sure it is to your liking. When you are satisfied that it is the way you want it then show it off and start taking orders to make more.

Ever felt like groping a bag snatcher? Here is your chance, grasp it now! The good news is he doesn’t run away and doesn’t mind you robbing him blind. Are you confused yet? Let me give you a hint. When you get to know him he turns out to be very helpful in the kitchen, and even tidies up after you. Not to forget that he is a site for sore eyes. Who wouldn’t want to have him! So come and snatch him away.
Alright you probably found me out by now. It’s a new light on an old concept. A plastic bag keeper.

· Yarn: Schachenmayr nomotta, cantania, weight 50gr/1.756 oz , length app.125m/136.75 yds, material 100% cotton, for needle sizes 2.5-3.5mm.
· MC: 105 natur (white), 2 balls
· CC1: 173 hellblau (bleu), 3 balls
· CC2: 218 biskuit (yellow), 2 balls
· CC3: 162 kaffee (brown), 3 balls
· CC5: Elastic cord (brand Dunkoord Elastiek) 1.4mm diameter, length 4m/4.376 yds
· US G or H / 4.5mm crochet hook
· Yarn needle
· Stitch marker (optional)

11.81 inch/30 cm x 6.5 inch/16.5 cm x 22.83 inch/58 cm.

Gauge: 16 sc/22 rows = 4 inches in single crochet.

Please note that gauge isn’t very important in this project. As long as your stitches are firm. If they are too loose your bag snatcher will take on the bulky form of the plastic bags in it.

However, if you decide to change the number of stitches, because you want your project in a different size or because you’re working with a different yarn weight, then take a number of stitches dividable through 3. After increasing be sure to have a number of stitches dividable through 2.

Rows and rounds
This project contains only one row to start of working in the round. Hereafter I use the term round.

Changing colors
Cluster 1
Sc in each sc (color A) until you are ready to start the last round of color A. Sc the first stitch of the new round but instead of continuing with the next sc ad one turning chain (t-ch, remember not to crochet in your t-ch’s or you’ll be adding stitches). Continue to sc in each sc till last sc of the last round.
This elevates the stitch just enough so that when you are at the end of the last row as little as possible discrepancy between color A and color B remains.

Cluster 2
Change colors (color B). Insert your hook in the first sc of the round of color B. Yarn over and pull through. You now have two loops of color A on your hook. Now fasten color B at the back of your work to color A. Using color B yarn over and pull trough the two loops (in color A), at a t-ch (remember not to crochet in your t-ch’s). Continue with the spike stitches as indicated in the tables.

Spike stitch
The first round of a new color is done in spike stitch. These rounds are notated in a table. In the first column of the table contains the cumulative number of stitches. Read the table for left to right and per row. The numbers represent the number of rounds you need to go down to insert your hook. To keep the counting easy let's call a sc no 1, one round below a sc is no 2 etc.

Schematic overview from bottom-up
12 rounds 5.0cm/1.97inch MC Natur (white) Bottom
17 rounds 7.0cm/2.76inch CC1 Hellblau (bleu) Body
8 rounds 3.0cm/1.18inch CC2 Kaffee (brown) Body
10 rounds 4.5cm/1.77inch CC3 Biskuit (yellow) Body
13 rounds 6.0cm/2.36inch CC2 Kaffee (brown) Body
6 rounds 2.0cm/0.79inch MC Natur (White) Body
12 rounds 5.0cm/2.76inch CC1 Hellblau (bleu) Body
6 rounds 2.0cm/0.79inch CC3 Biskuit (yellow) Body
7 rounds 3.5cm/1.38inch CC2 Kaffee (brown) Body
12 rounds 5.0cm/1.97inch MC Natur (white) Top

Bottom
With MC, ch 37 (this includes 1 turning chain)

Row 1: sc 36. Instead of turning join begin and end of your work by sc in the first sc at an t-ch.
(Join the bottom of your work with a slipstitch using the tail end of your work. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends).

Round 1: sc in each sc.

Round 2 to 4: repeat round 1 three times.

Round 5: start increasing by sc in the first sc, *2 sc in second sc, sc*. Repeat this till end of the round (54 stitches)

Round 6: sc in each sc

Round 7 and 8: repeat round 5 and 6, but make one increase less. (80 stitches)

Round 9 and 11: continue in sc till end of round.

Round 12: cluster1.

Body
With CC1
round 1: cluster 2.

16 4 sc 7 sc 2 sc 3 sc 5 sc 6 sc 4 sc 7 sc
32 2 sc 3 sc 4 sc 2 sc 5 sc 3 sc 4 sc 2 sc
48 6 sc 3 sc 2 sc 4 sc 6 sc 4 sc 3 sc 6 sc
64 3 sc 2 sc 4 sc 2 sc 7 sc 5 sc 3 sc 2 sc
80 5 sc 3 sc 6 sc 3 sc 4 sc 2 sc 5 sc 3 sc

Round 2 to 16: sc till end of round.
Round 17: cluster 1, continue in sc till end of round.

With CC2
Round 1: cluster 2, start directly with the spike stitches alternated with sc as indicated below.

16 14 sc 10 sc 5 sc 12 sc 5 sc 16 sc 10 sc 6 sc
32 4 sc 8 sc 11 sc 5 sc 13 sc 9 sc 5 sc 16 sc
48 3 sc 8 sc 11 sc 7 sc 3 sc 13 sc 10 sc 4 sc
64 6 sc 9 sc 4 sc 8 sc 16 sc 3 sc 8 sc 11 sc
80 5 sc 7 sc 12 sc 4 sc 7 sc 16 sc 4 sc 8 sc

Round 2 to 7: sc till end of round.
Round 8: cluster 1.

With CC3
Round 1: cluster 2.

16 5 sc 6 sc 4 sc 3 sc 6 sc 3 sc 4 sc 5 sc
32 6 sc 4 sc 2 sc 4 sc 6 sc 4 sc 3 sc 5 sc
48 3 sc 4 sc 3 sc 6 sc 4 sc 5 sc 3 sc 4 sc
64 6 sc 4 sc 2 sc 5 sc 3 sc 4 sc 5 sc 6 sc
80 4 sc 3 sc 5 sc 3 sc 4 sc 6 sc 4 sc 5 sc

Round 2 to 9: sc till end of round.
Round 10: cluster 1.

With CC2
Round 1: cluster 2.

16 2 sc 5 sc 4 sc 8 sc 5 sc 3 sc 6 sc 7 sc
32 8 sc 5 sc 3 sc 5 sc 6 sc 4 sc 3 sc 6 sc
48 7 sc 4 sc 3 sc 4 sc 5 sc 7 sc 6 sc 5 sc
64 4 sc 3 sc 2 sc 3 sc 4 sc 5 sc 6 sc 7 sc
80 4 sc 5 sc 3 sc 6 sc 3 sc 5 sc 8 sc 6 sc

Round 2 to 11: sc to end of round.
Round 13: cluster 1.

With MC
Round 1: cluster 2.

6 7 sc 3 sc 9 sc 5 sc 11 sc 9 sc 3 sc 7 sc
32 11 sc 2 sc 5 sc 8 sc 9 sc 5 sc 11 sc 8 sc
48 4 sc 6 sc 4 sc 11 sc 8 sc 4 Sc 6 sc 8 sc
64 11 sc 4 sc 8 sc 11 sc 8 sc 11 sc 8 sc 4 sc
80 7 sc 11 sc 4 sc 8 sc 4 sc 5 sc 8 Sc 11 sc

Round 2 to 5: sc till end of round.
Round 6: cluster 1.

With CC1
Round 1: cluster 2.

16 3 sc 4 sc 3 sc 4 sc 2 sc 3 sc 4 sc 3 sc
32 2 sc 3 sc 4 sc 2 sc 3 sc 2 sc 4 sc 3 sc
48 4 sc 3 sc 2 sc 3 sc 4 sc 3 sc 2 sc 3 sc
64 4 sc 3 sc 4 sc 2 sc 3 sc 4 sc 2 sc 3 sc
80 4 sc 3 sc 4 sc 3 sc 4 sc 3 sc 2 sc 3 sc

Round 2 to 11: sc till end of round.
Round 12: cluster 1.

With CC3
Round 1: cluster 2.

16 10 sc 5 sc 8 sc 5 sc 3 sc 7 sc 10 sc 3 sc
32 6 sc 8 sc 10 sc 6 sc 3 sc 6 sc 8 sc 4 sc
48 3 sc 7 sc 9 sc 7 sc 10 sc 8 sc 6 sc 10 sc
64 8 sc 7 sc 8 sc 3 sc 6 sc 9 sc 10 sc 7 sc
80 3 sc 7 sc 8 sc 10 sc 6 sc 7 sc 8 sc 5 sc

Round 2 to 5: sc till end of round.
Round 6: cluster 1.

With CC2
Round 1: cluster 2.

16 3 sc 5 sc 3 sc 4 sc 2 sc 5 sc 3 sc 3 sc
32 2 sc 5 sc 4 sc 3 sc 4 sc 5 sc 3 sc 4 sc
48 5 sc 4 sc 3 sc 4 sc 2 sc 5 sc 4 sc 5 sc
64 4 sc 2 sc 5 sc 4 sc 3 sc 4 sc 3 sc 2 sc
80 3 sc 4 sc 5 sc 4 sc 5 sc 3 sc 2 sc 4 sc

Round 2 to 7: sc till 4 stitches before end of round. Chain 10, count 8 stitches, fasten with sc, work the chain back in sl (insert in but of the chain). Finish the round in sc.

Round 8: cluster 1

With MC
Round 1: cluster 2.

16 8 sc 6 sc 3 sc 5 sc 3 sc 6 sc 4 sc 5 sc
32 8 sc 4 sc 6 sc 8 sc 4 sc 5 sc 6 sc 5 sc
48 3 sc 8 sc 4 sc 7 sc 5 sc 3 sc 5 sc 3 sc
64 6 sc 2 sc 4 sc 8 sc 3 sc 5 sc 8 sc 3 sc
80 4 sc 8 sc 3 sc 4 sc 6 sc 8 sc 5 sc 3 sc

Round 2 to 4: sc till end of round.
Round 5: *sc, decrease with sc decrease (make 1 sc out of 2 sc)*, repeat section between the* till end of round.
Round 6: sc till end of round.
Round 7: sc, *sc, decrease with sc decrease*, repeat section between * till end of round (there should be 36 stitches left).
Round 8 to 12: continue in sc till end of round.

Finishing Instructions
The elastic ring
With CC4 (elastic cord).
Here you have to be a bit flexible yourself.
Make an adjustable ring with a diameter a bit lager than the opening of your bag. Make 26 sc around the ring. Don’t pull the tail end to close the ring. Place the ring around the opening. Continue with making the loops around the opening of the bag to keep the elastic ring in place.

The loops
With MC
Make 3 slipstitches, make a 3 deep spike stitch over the adjustable elastic ring, 3 sl st, repeat till end see table and picture below. Pull on the ends of the elastic cord to join the beginning and end of the ring. Join with sl. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.

17 sl sl 4 sl sl 4 sl sl 4 sl sl 4 sl sl 4 sl sl
34 sl sl 4 sl sl 4 sl sl 4 sl sl 4 sl sl 4 sl sl
37 sl sl 4
Repeat this for the bottom opening of your bag.

Finishing
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends in the inside of the bag and you’re done. Now you can start reusing your plastic bags in style.

This was another design that was inspired by my beginning class. I made this as an example of what can be done with the 3 most basic of crochet stitches; single crochet, double crochet and the chain stitch.

I originally posted this on my crochet Livejournal and wanted to share it here also. On my journal, someone had commented that this would also make a nice afghan square too.

~Lily’s Sugar and Cream 100% cotton worsted weight
in Cream (A), Light Blue (B) and Delft Blue (C), 1 ball each for tri-colour or
1 ball of Cream for single colour or colours of your choice.
~Size G hook
~tapestry needle

approx. an 8x8 in. square, give or take

gauge really isn’t that important in this project, but mine is 4 sc per inch

Stitches used:
~Chain (ch)
~Slip Stitch (slst)
~Single Crochet (sc)
~Double Crochet (dc)
~X-Stitch (X-st)
~Eyelet Picot (picot)

Special Stitches:
X-Stitch (X-st): Sk next stitch, dc in next stitch, going back to skipped stitch, yarn over, crossing over stitch just made, insert hook in skipped stitch, yarn over, draw through stitch, complete stitch as a dc, X-stitch completed. Repeat as pattern indicates.

Eyelet Picot (picot): sc in stitch indicated in pattern, ch 3, slst into the side of sc just made, eyelet picot completed. (I call it “Eyelet” Picot, because, when completing the picot on top of the sc, the slst made on the side of the sc opens the stitch up creating an “eyelet”.)

NOTE: Instructions are for the 3 colour dishcloth, but it can be made with only 1 or 2 colours. For 1 colour, work the same, just don’t break the yarn at the end of every row. For 2 colours, label colours just as A and B and alternate following the same directions.

With colour A, Ch 27

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (26 sc)

You might question the idea of a crocheted apron, but this is not your mother’s apron!  This is an apron with style that reaches beyond the kitchen. You can wear the piece apron-style with it open in the back or you can wear it open in the front like a jumper. Also, it can be worn as a fashion statement, or it can be worn for practical purposes as a “true” apron in the kitchen or garden. Finally, you can wear this garment year round! Wear it in the winter with a sweater under it or with a tank in the summer.

An added bonus is that this apron design supports a sustainable environment. I chose to use hemp, which is one of the most sustainable fibers. According to information from Lanaknits Designs Hemp for Knitting, hemp is one of the strongest and longest-lasting fibers. The plant (cannabis sativa) that hemp comes from is one of the world’s best renewable resources. It can grow just about anywhere, including on land that is otherwise unusable for other crops. Interestingly, hemp does not require pesticides or herbicides because insects do not like it, and it grows even more rapidly than weeds.

This is a simple piece to crochet. It includes only a few different crochet stitches and easy color changes. The wrap style is practical for a tunic-length garment as you can sit down and not worry about quickly stretching out a hand-crocheted item.

• MC: Hemp for Knitting, All Hemp 6, DK Weight, 100% hemp, 165yd/150 m per 100g/3.5 oz.,  color – Avocado, 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) skeins
• CC: Hemp for Knitting, All Hemp 6, DK Weight, 100% hemp, 165yd/150 m per 100g/3.5 oz.,  color – Sprout, 1 skein
• US G/6 (4mm) crochet hook
• Darning yarn needle
• Stitch markers
• 2 – 0.75” (2cm) buttons
• Sewing thread to match chosen buttons

This apron is designed to be fitted with little ease, but it must be able to be “wrapped” over your bust and underarm area. Measure directly under your arms and bust. Take the largest measurement of the two, and use this measurement to decide which size to make.  

Sizes: XS [S, M, L, XL]

Chest (to fit the following chest sizes): 28 [32, 36, 40, 44]” /70 (80, 90,100,110) cm

Actual Finished Measurements: 39 (44, 49, 54, 59) includes 11 (12, 13, 14, 15)” overlap/ 97.5 (110,122.5,135,147.5) cm includes 27.5 (30, 32.5, 35, 37.5) cm overlap

Total Length (including straps): 29 (31, 32, 33, 34)” / 72.5 (77.5, 80, 82.5, 85) cm

16 sts/9 rows of dc = 4” (10cm)

The apron is crocheted in three easy steps:

1. First, a rectangular piece is crocheted side to side primarily in double crochet from just over the bust to the midthigh. This piece forms the main body of the garment. The main body is crocheted from the right center back across the front to the left center back.  
2. Next, stitches are picked up from the top edge of the main piece. These stitches are worked in half double crochet for several rows to form a border at the top of the bust.
3. Finally, thick straps are created by continuing to crochet from the front over the shoulders to the back. There is an overlap in the back to create the “wrap”, and the straps are secured with buttons.  

Right side rows begin at the top edge, or bust, of the apron. Wrong side rows begin at the bottom edge, or hem, of the apron.

Turning chain does not count as a stitch.

Special Stitch Pattern:

Subtle waist shaping is incorporated with several inch-long darts in the waist area in four strategic places. These darts are created by changing the stitch pattern in the middle of the row from double crochet to single and half double crochet.

Main Body

Begin at Right Center Back

I have a little problem. Unless it's only a few inches long, I cannot throw yarn away.  I've even bought bags of scraps and partial skeins from charity shops. I think this stems from my college crocheting years when every strand was sacred.

Rather than collecting leftover bits of yarn until the end of time, I am always on the lookout for odd-ball, one-skein, and scrap-yarn projects. I have a problem with a lot of scrap yarn patterns, though. Just because something is made with leftover yarn doesn't mean it has to be messy-looking and made with clashing colors. Choose the scraps for your projects carefully, making sure the colors go well together. Repeat after me: scrappy does not mean crappy.

When I worked as a barista, I used scrap yarn to crochet coffee cup cozies for my customers, but now that I do most of my coffee drinking at home, I figured it was high-time I designed a cozy for my french press.

This Mondrian-inspired cozy is just one way to work-up a cozy for your cafetière. Try a monochrome version (a great way to use odd balls and one-skein impulse purchases) with an embroidered embellishment, try stripes or fancy stitches, or try something completely different. And definitely send me pictures!

• Approximately 165 yards (151m) scrap yarn (DK or sport weight is recommended for the pattern -- for thinner yarns, try using two complimentary strands at once; for thicker yarns, I would recommend making the cozy a few stitches narrower and a few rows shorter to ensure a proper fit)
• C1 (yellow):  20 yards (18m)
• C2 (black):  40 yards (37m)
• C3 (white):  50 yards (46m)
• C4 (red):  40 yards (37m)
• C5 (blue):  15 yards (14m)
• US F/5 (3.75 mm) hook
• Buttons
• Needle
• Sewing thread (optional)
• Yarn needle

Will fit standard size coffee press: 7" x 14" (18cm x 36cm)

17 sts x 18 rows of sc = 4" (10 cm)

When changing from one color to another, I find it looks best to change color mid-stitch.  For a single crochet stitch, the final yo and draw-through is done with the second color.  Although it is not necessary to 'carry' yarns for this project, this color-changing technique is sometimes known as tapestry crochet, explained by Carol Ventura here.

The Pattern

With C1, ch 28, turn.  

Row 1:  Starting in second ch from hook, sc in each st to end, ch 1, turn.  (27 sts)

Row 2-4:  Sc in each st to end, ch 1, turn.   

Rows 5-6:  With C2, sc in each st to end, ch 1, turn.    

Row 7: With C3, sc in each of the next 17 sts, with C2, sc in each of the next 5 sts, with C3, sc in each of the last 5 sts, ch 1, turn.  

Row 8: With C3, sc in each of the first 5 sts, with C2, sc in each of the next 5 sts, with C3, sc in each of the last 17 sts, ch 1, turn.   

Rows 9-22: Repeat Rows 7 and 8.

Rows 23-24:  With C2, sc in each st to end, ch 1, turn.  

Row 25:  With C4, sc in each of the first 17 sts, with C2, sc in each of the next 5 sts, with C3, sc in each of the last 5 sts, ch 1, turn.  

Row 26:  With C3, sc in each of the first 5 sts, with C2, sc in each of the next 5 sts, with C4, sc in each of the last 17 sts, ch 1, turn.

Rows 27–44:  Repeat Rows 25 and 26.

Rows 45-46:  With C2, sc in each st to end, ch 1, turn.  

Row 47:  With C3, sc in each of the first 11 sts, with C2, sc in each of the next 5 sts, with C5, sc in each of the last 11 sts, ch 1, turn.

Row 48:  With C5, sc in each of the first 11 sts, with C2, sc in each of the next 5 sts, with C3, sc in each of the last 11 sts, ch 1, turn.

Rows 49–56: Repeat Rows 47 and 48.

Row 58:  With C2, sc in each st to end, turn.  

Row 59:  With C1, ch 3 (counts as first tr), tr in each st to end.  (Note:  Feel free to substitute hdc, dc, double-tr, etc. for the tr stitches to accommodate button size.)   

Finishing

Fasten off.  Using yarn needle, weave in ends.  

Sew buttons onto the area between Rows 1-4. Not everyones coffee presses have their handle in the same place, so you will have to figure out the placement yourself -- the good news is that you don't have to make button holes! The buttons fasten into the tr-spaces of the last row.  

If you find sewing on buttons a nightmare, you may fasten the cozy by attaching lengths of ch-sts to the foundation chain and tying them to the tr stitches.

It’s jewelry -– or an altar cloth as the case may be -– for your coffee maker. Every morning it says “I love me” better than a thermal carafe model. Crocheted of colored wire and glass beads, this project is a good introduction to jewelry-making and the special properties of metal.

Ed. Note: Please use common sense. If the wire you use is plastic-coated or if you're using beads, do remove the doily from the heating element before using your coffee maker. If in doubt, use the doily as a trivet only, and do not use it in your coffee maker.

A standard Mr. Coffee hotplate measures 3.75 inches in diameter inside its lipped edge; minimalists will prefer 5 rows of pattern, which will elegantly rest just inside the edge. The rest of us take the beaded edging option (Row 6); the fringe loops are long enough to hang over the edge of the hotplate so that they don’t interfere too much with sliding the coffeepot in and out. The fringe row is about 1 inch high for a total diameter of about 5.5 inches.

7½ double crochets = 1 inch and 4 rows = 1 inch. Tug on your stitches a bit both vertically and horizontally before measuring.

If this is your first time crocheting wire, congratulations on entering the unique world of metalworking! This project will be good practice because it’s all double crochets. Your first stitches are likely to be loose and irregular and messy-looking. Here are some tips:

1. Try looping the wire around an additional finger for more tension. Try to make tight stitches and small contained movements.
2. Think of wire as crochet thread that already has the starch in it because when you’re done crocheting, you can tell the stitches what to do, and they will behave.  Don’t worry if the shape of your doily is bent, crooked, rippled, amateur, or otherwise hopeless. There’s no way it will look neat and even and flat while you’re gripping it to work the stitches. It will shape up when you discipline it with the flattening tool of your choice at the completion of row 5 (before you add beads). Shape the stitches by nudging and poking them with your hook.
3. You must use 28 gauge wire. Do not substitute with the next larger size (26 gauge). It just takes practice and little rest periods because it uses new muscles that other kinds of crocheting don’t require. It’s more important than usual to avoid hunching your shoulders as you work. (If you really have trouble with the 28 gauge, experiment with 30 gauge.)
4. If you find that you use one of your fingertips as a backing when trying to poke the hook through a stitch, wear a thimble or band-aid on that finger for cushioned support.
5. Assume that you can’t rip out mistakes. Sometimes you can without breaking the wire, but you will still be weakening it. It’s best to leave tiny kinks in the wire; trying to remove them stresses the wire. Wire is weird because it’s so strong that you have to manhandle it, but it can snap, so you have to baby it at the same time. If the wire does break, it matters more when you crochet wire jewelry than with this project, so don’t worry. Twist together the broken ends and keep going. With some wire projects you don’t need to weave in a long tail, just try to keep ends from popping up and feeling prickly or snagging things (especially important with jewelry items).
6. The turning chain-3 counts as 1 dc.
7. All stitches are worked into the top 2 loops of the row below.

US pattern conventions used
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
dc = double crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
rep = repeat

Instructions
If you will be adding the beaded edging as shown in the photo, string all beads now. String them in the opposite order that you’ll be using them. Either you can just string on a zillion, or you can be scientific about it and figure that 63 looped fringes will need beads. In the model, I just always made sure that I put a big red bead at the tip of the fringe, a couple of little beads on either side of it, and a couple more at the base of it. So I began stringing like this: *2 or 3 little beads, 1 big red, 4 or 5 little (includes 2 for the base of fringe loop), repeat sequence from * 62 times. Push all the beads way down the line because you won’t need them for 5 rows.

Ready?

This can be a doily, a tablecloth, a place-mat, a pillowcase or whatever you decide it to be. It all depends on which yarn you use, and how big you make it.

Note: This pattern uses US terminology

• Two balls of Schachenmayr Crazy Cotton (100% cotton, 125m/137 yards per 50g/1.75 oz ball). This is a so-called self-striping yarn. The colour changes give the plain square a soft, "hand-painted" look. Also, they make it more fun to work the piece!

• A 3 mm hook, to get a solid, yet not too stiff, fabric.

With two balls of Crazy Cotton, I ended up with a 34x34 cm/13.5x13.5 inch square.

This is a square made in the round! This means that the increases in every round are made in four, evenly spaced places, forming the corners. A "chain arch" of 3 ch in every corner keeps the angels straight, and creates nice eyelets.

1) All stitches are worked in the back loop only (except, of course, in round 1 and when stitches are worked around the "chain arches").

2) There is no extra chain in the beginning of each round. You start right off with a sc around the "chain arch". The aim is to make the change between rounds as unnoticeable as possible. For this very reason, it is useful to mark this first stitch by placing a marker (e.g., a safety pin) in it. When the round is finished, you join it with a slip stitch in the first stitch. You will notice that the loop forming the slip stitch will sit on top of the stitch it’s worked into. When you finish the subsequent round, you work the last stitch into the slip stitch. You simply work into every "loop" on top of the round below. As long as you mark that first stitch in the round, it’s very easy.

Getting started