Wanted to come up with a hanging kawaii amigurumi for the car. This is what resulted.

Mint Tara Yarn
Autumn Boulce
G hook

6 inches tall

Not important to this pattern

Work in Spiral do not join unless noted

Mint Ice cream scoop

Ch 2
6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
2sc in each stitch around (12sc)
1 sc in first stitch , 2 sc in next stitch, around (18sc)
1 sc in first 2 stitches, 2sc in next stitch (24sc)
1 sc in each stitch around working in Back loops only (24sc)
1 sc in each stitch around (repeat 5 times)

Attach safety eyes and stitch on mouth
Stuff as you close up the top Add some lavender buds

1 dec over first two stitches, 1 sc in next stitch around
1sc in each stitch around (16sc)
Dec around (8 dec)
Dec around (4 dec) finish off leaving a tail to sew the top closed.

Cone

Attach yarn to open back loop with a sl st. Ch 1
1 sc in each stitch around join to first sc ch1
1 dec sc over first 2 stitches, 1 sc around join to first dec sc ch 1
1 sc in each stitch around join to first sc ch 1 (16 sc)
1 dec sc over first 2 stitches, 1 sc around join to first dec sc , ch 1
1 sc in each stitch around, join to first sc ch 1 (10sc)
Stuff cone
Dec sc around Join to first dec sc
Sc around (3 times) do not join
Stuff cone tight add some lavender buds
Dec aorund to the end finish off sew in ends

Hang

Now take some extra yarn or ribbon attach to top of the ice cream and hang in your car for a nice kawaii smelling car deodorizer

My sister has a collection of little boxes so I like making them for her. They are great for gifting small things, and they are just so darn cute!

small amount of yarn, any type, any weight ( I use one strand light pink fingering weight wool, one strand light purple fingering weight wool, and one strand glittery silver cotton thread all held together for the example shown here)

any size hook (I used a 00/3.5 mm hook for the example shown here)

the size varies with choice of yarn and hook (the example shown here is about 2 inches, 5 cm tall and about 3 inches,7.5 cm wide)

gauge does not apply

This pattern is worked in the round without joining rounds unless stated in pattern.

The choice of yarn and hook is up to you, but may I suggest that you choose a combination that results in nice tight stitches for a stiff fabric.

Another way to vary the size of your box is to change the number of stitches you work into the beginning adjustable ring of each piece

Yet another way, is to skip or add rounds from the pattern ( I suggest rounds 4 and/or 5 )make sure you skip/add rounds from both bottom and top pieces! 

To avoid a lot of counting tediousness, mark the first stitch of each round as you go. I use a contrasting color yarn tucked into the stitch, some people use earrings, or even those stitch markers they make for this very purpose!

bottom

1. make a magic adjustable ring

2. 6sc in ring, tighten

3. 2sc in each sc, (12 stitches total)

4. 2sc in each sc, (24 stitches)

5.(2sc in next stitch, one sc in next stitch) repeat to end (36 stitches)

6. 1sc in each sc (36 stitches)

7. repeat round 6 until desired height, end with a sl st, tie off (the example shown here has 7 rounds of round 6) 

top

1. make adjustable ring

2. 6sc in ring, join with a sl st

3. ch 2, 2dc in next stitch, 3dc in each sc to end do not join (18 stitches)

4. (2sc in next stitch, 1 sc in next stitch) repeat to end (30 stitches)

5. repeat round 4 (45 stitches)

6. 1sc in each sc to end (45 stitches)

7. repeat round 6 until desired height, end with  a sl st, tie off ( the example shown here has 4 rounds of round 6)

handle

this part is where you can get creative and use whatever you want as a handle. Here are a couple of suggestions. Do embelish!

                  circle           

1. make adjustable ring

2. 6sc in ring, tighten and sew to outside top of box

                      fan             

1. make adjustable ring

2. 4sc in ring, tighten

3. turn, ch 1, 2sc in next stitch, 1sc in next stitch, 2sc in next stitch, tie off and sew to outside top of box

weave in all ends

I wanted to use this yarn and couldn't think of a project. But I found a pillow form laying around that I hadn't gotten around to using - so I made this pillow! I love the color changes on the yarn - and I love that Diamond Stitch!

2 Skeins Universal Yarn, Inc., Deluxe Chunky LP, 100% Wool, Color 01
13" x 13" Pillow Form
Size "K" Crochet Hook
Yarn Needle
Scrap coordinating yarn (for lace tie)

13" x 13"

3 ½ sc + 4 Rows = 1" (worked over sc)

The Diamond Stitch used in this pillow looks hard - but once you have worked a few repeats, you'll see how it's done and you'll soon be working without referring to the pattern notes.

To work a Front Post Treble Crochet (abbreviated FPtr): YO twice, insert hook from front to back around post of sc indicated, YO and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), (YO and draw through 2 loops on hook) 3 times.

Instructions
Ch 38.
Row 1: sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn (37 ch)
Row 2 and 3: Ch 1, turn, sc in each sc across, ch 1, turn
Row 4 (Right Side): sc in first 2 sc, work FPtr around post of first sc on third row below, skip next 4 sc on third row below, work FPtr around post of next sc on third row below, * skip next 2 sc from last sc made, sc in next 4 sc, work FPtr around next sc on third row below, skip next 4 sc on third row below, work FPtr around next sc on third row below, repeat from * across to last 5 sc, skip next 2 sc from last sc made, sc in last 3 sc. Ch 1, turn.
Rows 5 - 7: sc in each sc across
Row 8: work FPtr around third sc on third row below, skip first sc, sc in next 4 sc, * work FPtr around next sc on third row below, skip next 4 sc on third row below, work FPtr around next sc on third row below, skip next 2 sc from last sc made, sc in next 4 sc; repeat from * across to last 2 sc, work FPtr around next sc on third row below, skip next sc from last sc made, sc in last sc.
Rows 9 - 11: sc in each sc across
Repeat Rows 4 -11 for Diamond Stitch Pattern.

Work until piece measures 27 ½" from beginning. I used a slip stitch to seam the beginning chain edge to the edge just finished. (I also ran out of the chunky yarn at this point. So I switched to Noro Silk Garden, #208, which happened to coordinate with the project yarn. Any yarn you have on hand that coordinates will work fine.)

Seam one side of pillow using coordinating scrap yarn and also using the slip stitch method.

For Lace Tie:
I didn't really want to mess with buttons on this, so I crocheted a chain about 30" long and used it to lace it down the sides of the remaining unseamed side. And tied a little bow at the bottom. That way, I can unlace it and hand-wash the pillow cover when needed. I folded the lace tie in half, with the open ends toward the bottom of the pillow, and the folded loop at the top of the pillow. With a yarn needle, I threaded one lace tie through the edge stitches all the way down, then I threaded the remaining tie on the opposite stitches all the way down. Cinch it tight and tie a bow!

I came up with this while thinking of something for my students to make after my Tunisian stitch workshop coming up this month.

Light Worsted/Worsted weight yarn
Size H/8.00mm Tunisian (afghan) hook
Size H/8.00mm Crochet hook
Fiberfill
Scrap yarn for embroidery (optional)
Yarn needle

Approx. 6"x6", give or take

not very important

Stitches used:
Tunisian Simple Stitch (TSS)
Tunisian Cross Stitch (TCS)
Single Crochet (SC)
Reverse Single Crochet (RSC)

Special Stitches:
Cast on:
Chain amount indicated, [insert hook into next chain, Yarn over (YO), pull up loop] repeat in each chain across, keeping loops on hook

Tunisian Simple Stitch (TSS)-
Forward Pass (FPS): [Insert hook in stitch/post indicated, pull up loop, leave on hook], repeat across.
Backward Pass (BPS): Yarn over, pull through 1 loop on hook, [YO, pull through 2 loops on hook] repeat until 1 loop remains on hook.

Tunisian Cross Stitch (TCS)-
Forward Pass (FPS): [Skip next post, insert hook into next post, YO, pull up loop, insert hook into skipped post, YO, pull up loop], repeat across, keeping all loops on hook, to last post, insert hook into last loop, YO, pull up loop.
Backward Pass (BPS): work same as TSS BP

Bind off:
[Insert hook into post indicated, YO, draw up loop, pull through loop on hook] repeat across until 1 loop remains on hook.

Reverse Single Crochet:
Work the same as single crochet, except working from left to right (if right handed, the opposite if left handed).

Instructions:
Front
Chain 24,
Row 1- Cast on 23 more loops (24 loops), BPS until one loop remains on hook.

Rows 2-4- TCS FP ([skip next post, pull up loop in next post, go back to skipped post, pull up loop] across), until last loop, insert hook in last loop YO, draw up loop, 24 loops on hook, BPS.

Rows 5-17- TCS over next 4 posts, TSS until last 5 posts, TCS in next 4 posts, draw up loop in last post, 23 loops on hook, BPS.

Rows 18-19- TCS FP, until last loop, insert hook in last loop YO, draw up loop, 24 loops on hook, BPS.

Cast off in the TSC pattern. Finish off.

Back
Chain 24,
Row 1- Cast on 23 more loops (24 loops), BP until one loop remains on hook.

Rows 2-19- TCS FP ([skip next post, pull up loop in next post, go back to skipped post, pull up loop] across), until last loop, insert hook in last loop YO, draw up loop, 24 loops on hook, BP.

Cast off in the TSC pattern. Finish off.

Pocket
Ch 9, cast on 8 more loops (9 loops), BPS until one loop remains on hook.

Rows 1-7- TSS, cast off, DONOT finish off.
Row 8- with standard crochet hook, Ch 1, RSC across,
finish off with long tail for sewing.
Weave in short tail.

Finishing:

Rnd 1- With wrong sides together (the back will be slightly smaller than the front, but the stitch count should be the same), working through both pieces, using the standard crochet hook, with the back facing, join yarn in any corner, ch 1, SC in same st as joining, SC evenly around, doing 3 SC in each corner to the 1st SC, 2 SC in same st, join to 1st SC. NOTE: When about half way done on the 4th side, stuff pillow with fiberfill.

Rnd 2- Ch 1, turn, RSC in each SC around, join to 1st RSC, finish off. Weave in ends.

Embroider flower onto pocket, if desired.
Sew pocket onto the middle of the front of the pillow.

http://community.livejournal.com/starrs_crodream/12579.html

This is a simple motif that you can use to decorate cards, turn into ornaments or even make a load and turn them into a garland!

Small amount of green wool
Suitable sized crochet hook

My little trees are only about 2 inches tall - but this will vary depending on what wool and sized crochet hook that you use.

Keep it nice and tight! These trees look best when they are slightly stiff.

I designed this very simple Christmas tree after spending a long time trying to find a suitable free pattern online and having no joy. They are very quick and easy to make - and can make lovely tree decorations if you back them with felt and add a few sparkley sequins.

ch 2
2 sc in 2nd ch from hook
ch 1, 2 sc in 1st sc, sc, 2 sc in last sc
ch 1, 2 sc in 1st sc, 3 sc, 2 sc in last sc
(first section of tree)

These little round robins make lovely Christmas tree decorations. Simple and quick to work up why not make up a batch to give as quick Christmas presents?

Small amount of red and brown wool/yarn
Small amount of fiberfill
Suitable crochet hook for getting a nice tight gauge
Yarn needle
Fine needle
Small amount of black thread
Small amount of thick gold thread
2 small black beads (for eyes)
tiny triangle of yellow felt (for beak)

My robins turn out to be only 2 inches tall, but this depends on the type of wool and hook size that you use.

A nice tight gauge - this way the fiberfill won't show through

This simple robin was inspired by some of the basic amigurumi birds patterns. However, instead of working in a continuous spiral like most amigurumi this little robin is worked in rows which gives him a nice straight edge between his head and his red breast.

For the body:

Use a slip stitch to join each row
Start with red wool

2 ch, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook
ch 1, 2 sc in each sc (10 sc)

Ever felt like groping a bag snatcher? Here is your chance, grasp it now! The good news is he doesn’t run away and doesn’t mind you robbing him blind. Are you confused yet? Let me give you a hint. When you get to know him he turns out to be very helpful in the kitchen, and even tidies up after you. Not to forget that he is a site for sore eyes. Who wouldn’t want to have him! So come and snatch him away.
Alright you probably found me out by now. It’s a new light on an old concept. A plastic bag keeper.

· Yarn: Schachenmayr nomotta, cantania, weight 50gr/1.756 oz , length app.125m/136.75 yds, material 100% cotton, for needle sizes 2.5-3.5mm.
· MC: 105 natur (white), 2 balls
· CC1: 173 hellblau (bleu), 3 balls
· CC2: 218 biskuit (yellow), 2 balls
· CC3: 162 kaffee (brown), 3 balls
· CC5: Elastic cord (brand Dunkoord Elastiek) 1.4mm diameter, length 4m/4.376 yds
· US G or H / 4.5mm crochet hook
· Yarn needle
· Stitch marker (optional)

11.81 inch/30 cm x 6.5 inch/16.5 cm x 22.83 inch/58 cm.

Gauge: 16 sc/22 rows = 4 inches in single crochet.

Please note that gauge isn’t very important in this project. As long as your stitches are firm. If they are too loose your bag snatcher will take on the bulky form of the plastic bags in it.

However, if you decide to change the number of stitches, because you want your project in a different size or because you’re working with a different yarn weight, then take a number of stitches dividable through 3. After increasing be sure to have a number of stitches dividable through 2.

Rows and rounds
This project contains only one row to start of working in the round. Hereafter I use the term round.

Changing colors
Cluster 1
Sc in each sc (color A) until you are ready to start the last round of color A. Sc the first stitch of the new round but instead of continuing with the next sc ad one turning chain (t-ch, remember not to crochet in your t-ch’s or you’ll be adding stitches). Continue to sc in each sc till last sc of the last round.
This elevates the stitch just enough so that when you are at the end of the last row as little as possible discrepancy between color A and color B remains.

Cluster 2
Change colors (color B). Insert your hook in the first sc of the round of color B. Yarn over and pull through. You now have two loops of color A on your hook. Now fasten color B at the back of your work to color A. Using color B yarn over and pull trough the two loops (in color A), at a t-ch (remember not to crochet in your t-ch’s). Continue with the spike stitches as indicated in the tables.

Spike stitch
The first round of a new color is done in spike stitch. These rounds are notated in a table. In the first column of the table contains the cumulative number of stitches. Read the table for left to right and per row. The numbers represent the number of rounds you need to go down to insert your hook. To keep the counting easy let's call a sc no 1, one round below a sc is no 2 etc.

Schematic overview from bottom-up
12 rounds 5.0cm/1.97inch MC Natur (white) Bottom
17 rounds 7.0cm/2.76inch CC1 Hellblau (bleu) Body
8 rounds 3.0cm/1.18inch CC2 Kaffee (brown) Body
10 rounds 4.5cm/1.77inch CC3 Biskuit (yellow) Body
13 rounds 6.0cm/2.36inch CC2 Kaffee (brown) Body
6 rounds 2.0cm/0.79inch MC Natur (White) Body
12 rounds 5.0cm/2.76inch CC1 Hellblau (bleu) Body
6 rounds 2.0cm/0.79inch CC3 Biskuit (yellow) Body
7 rounds 3.5cm/1.38inch CC2 Kaffee (brown) Body
12 rounds 5.0cm/1.97inch MC Natur (white) Top

Bottom
With MC, ch 37 (this includes 1 turning chain)

Row 1: sc 36. Instead of turning join begin and end of your work by sc in the first sc at an t-ch.
(Join the bottom of your work with a slipstitch using the tail end of your work. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends).

Round 1: sc in each sc.

Round 2 to 4: repeat round 1 three times.

Round 5: start increasing by sc in the first sc, *2 sc in second sc, sc*. Repeat this till end of the round (54 stitches)

Round 6: sc in each sc

Round 7 and 8: repeat round 5 and 6, but make one increase less. (80 stitches)

Round 9 and 11: continue in sc till end of round.

Round 12: cluster1.

Body
With CC1
round 1: cluster 2.

16 4 sc 7 sc 2 sc 3 sc 5 sc 6 sc 4 sc 7 sc
32 2 sc 3 sc 4 sc 2 sc 5 sc 3 sc 4 sc 2 sc
48 6 sc 3 sc 2 sc 4 sc 6 sc 4 sc 3 sc 6 sc
64 3 sc 2 sc 4 sc 2 sc 7 sc 5 sc 3 sc 2 sc
80 5 sc 3 sc 6 sc 3 sc 4 sc 2 sc 5 sc 3 sc

Round 2 to 16: sc till end of round.
Round 17: cluster 1, continue in sc till end of round.

With CC2
Round 1: cluster 2, start directly with the spike stitches alternated with sc as indicated below.

16 14 sc 10 sc 5 sc 12 sc 5 sc 16 sc 10 sc 6 sc
32 4 sc 8 sc 11 sc 5 sc 13 sc 9 sc 5 sc 16 sc
48 3 sc 8 sc 11 sc 7 sc 3 sc 13 sc 10 sc 4 sc
64 6 sc 9 sc 4 sc 8 sc 16 sc 3 sc 8 sc 11 sc
80 5 sc 7 sc 12 sc 4 sc 7 sc 16 sc 4 sc 8 sc

Round 2 to 7: sc till end of round.
Round 8: cluster 1.

With CC3
Round 1: cluster 2.

16 5 sc 6 sc 4 sc 3 sc 6 sc 3 sc 4 sc 5 sc
32 6 sc 4 sc 2 sc 4 sc 6 sc 4 sc 3 sc 5 sc
48 3 sc 4 sc 3 sc 6 sc 4 sc 5 sc 3 sc 4 sc
64 6 sc 4 sc 2 sc 5 sc 3 sc 4 sc 5 sc 6 sc
80 4 sc 3 sc 5 sc 3 sc 4 sc 6 sc 4 sc 5 sc

Round 2 to 9: sc till end of round.
Round 10: cluster 1.

With CC2
Round 1: cluster 2.

16 2 sc 5 sc 4 sc 8 sc 5 sc 3 sc 6 sc 7 sc
32 8 sc 5 sc 3 sc 5 sc 6 sc 4 sc 3 sc 6 sc
48 7 sc 4 sc 3 sc 4 sc 5 sc 7 sc 6 sc 5 sc
64 4 sc 3 sc 2 sc 3 sc 4 sc 5 sc 6 sc 7 sc
80 4 sc 5 sc 3 sc 6 sc 3 sc 5 sc 8 sc 6 sc

Round 2 to 11: sc to end of round.
Round 13: cluster 1.

With MC
Round 1: cluster 2.

6 7 sc 3 sc 9 sc 5 sc 11 sc 9 sc 3 sc 7 sc
32 11 sc 2 sc 5 sc 8 sc 9 sc 5 sc 11 sc 8 sc
48 4 sc 6 sc 4 sc 11 sc 8 sc 4 Sc 6 sc 8 sc
64 11 sc 4 sc 8 sc 11 sc 8 sc 11 sc 8 sc 4 sc
80 7 sc 11 sc 4 sc 8 sc 4 sc 5 sc 8 Sc 11 sc

Round 2 to 5: sc till end of round.
Round 6: cluster 1.

With CC1
Round 1: cluster 2.

16 3 sc 4 sc 3 sc 4 sc 2 sc 3 sc 4 sc 3 sc
32 2 sc 3 sc 4 sc 2 sc 3 sc 2 sc 4 sc 3 sc
48 4 sc 3 sc 2 sc 3 sc 4 sc 3 sc 2 sc 3 sc
64 4 sc 3 sc 4 sc 2 sc 3 sc 4 sc 2 sc 3 sc
80 4 sc 3 sc 4 sc 3 sc 4 sc 3 sc 2 sc 3 sc

Round 2 to 11: sc till end of round.
Round 12: cluster 1.

With CC3
Round 1: cluster 2.

16 10 sc 5 sc 8 sc 5 sc 3 sc 7 sc 10 sc 3 sc
32 6 sc 8 sc 10 sc 6 sc 3 sc 6 sc 8 sc 4 sc
48 3 sc 7 sc 9 sc 7 sc 10 sc 8 sc 6 sc 10 sc
64 8 sc 7 sc 8 sc 3 sc 6 sc 9 sc 10 sc 7 sc
80 3 sc 7 sc 8 sc 10 sc 6 sc 7 sc 8 sc 5 sc

Round 2 to 5: sc till end of round.
Round 6: cluster 1.

With CC2
Round 1: cluster 2.

16 3 sc 5 sc 3 sc 4 sc 2 sc 5 sc 3 sc 3 sc
32 2 sc 5 sc 4 sc 3 sc 4 sc 5 sc 3 sc 4 sc
48 5 sc 4 sc 3 sc 4 sc 2 sc 5 sc 4 sc 5 sc
64 4 sc 2 sc 5 sc 4 sc 3 sc 4 sc 3 sc 2 sc
80 3 sc 4 sc 5 sc 4 sc 5 sc 3 sc 2 sc 4 sc

Round 2 to 7: sc till 4 stitches before end of round. Chain 10, count 8 stitches, fasten with sc, work the chain back in sl (insert in but of the chain). Finish the round in sc.

Round 8: cluster 1

With MC
Round 1: cluster 2.

16 8 sc 6 sc 3 sc 5 sc 3 sc 6 sc 4 sc 5 sc
32 8 sc 4 sc 6 sc 8 sc 4 sc 5 sc 6 sc 5 sc
48 3 sc 8 sc 4 sc 7 sc 5 sc 3 sc 5 sc 3 sc
64 6 sc 2 sc 4 sc 8 sc 3 sc 5 sc 8 sc 3 sc
80 4 sc 8 sc 3 sc 4 sc 6 sc 8 sc 5 sc 3 sc

Round 2 to 4: sc till end of round.
Round 5: *sc, decrease with sc decrease (make 1 sc out of 2 sc)*, repeat section between the* till end of round.
Round 6: sc till end of round.
Round 7: sc, *sc, decrease with sc decrease*, repeat section between * till end of round (there should be 36 stitches left).
Round 8 to 12: continue in sc till end of round.

Finishing Instructions
The elastic ring
With CC4 (elastic cord).
Here you have to be a bit flexible yourself.
Make an adjustable ring with a diameter a bit lager than the opening of your bag. Make 26 sc around the ring. Don’t pull the tail end to close the ring. Place the ring around the opening. Continue with making the loops around the opening of the bag to keep the elastic ring in place.

The loops
With MC
Make 3 slipstitches, make a 3 deep spike stitch over the adjustable elastic ring, 3 sl st, repeat till end see table and picture below. Pull on the ends of the elastic cord to join the beginning and end of the ring. Join with sl. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.

17 sl sl 4 sl sl 4 sl sl 4 sl sl 4 sl sl 4 sl sl
34 sl sl 4 sl sl 4 sl sl 4 sl sl 4 sl sl 4 sl sl
37 sl sl 4
Repeat this for the bottom opening of your bag.

Finishing
Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends in the inside of the bag and you’re done. Now you can start reusing your plastic bags in style.

Adorn your spooky tree with these Boo-treelicious ghost ornaments!

(Originally published as a Free Pattern of the Month on www.vickiehowell.blogspot.com)

MATERIALS:
1 ball Vickie Howell Collection's CRAFT in color: Carol (white)
1 US "E" (4.00mm) crochet hook
Tapestry needle
6, 1 1/2" Styrofoam balls
Scraps of black craft felt
Craft glue and white sewing pin (Ghost #3 only)
Spooky Tree (found at craft stores)

About 3" Tall

3 1/2 sts per inch in SC

Ghost #1 (Make 2)
Ch 2, join round with a sl st.
Rnd 1: Ch1, sc [6 times] in center. Join with a sl st. (7 sts)

Winter is on its way, and so are last minute Holiday gifts. I think that we all have done that last minute quick crochet gift for our kids teachers, the unexpected house guest for the Holiday, etc...

This little snowflake came out of the fact that I was tired of making the snowflakes in the little book that I had (this was before I got the 99 snowflake book!) and I thought, how hard can a snowflake be?

So, last year, I sat down with a ball of thread, a size 7 hook and went at it, and this is the result!

Royale Metallic Crochet Cotton size 10 in White/pearl
Size 7/1.65 mm Steel hook
Stiffener, stainless steel straight pins, a pinning board (I cover mine with plastic wrap, "Press and Seal" works really well), follow directions on the stiffener.

I never really measured it, but I think that it comes out to be about 4-5 inches in diameter. The photo is close to actual size, give or take.

gauge not really that important

Abbreviations:
YO-Yarn Over
ch-chain
sl st-slip stitch
st-stitch
sc-single crochet
dc-double crochet
sk-skip

Special Stitches:
Extended Double Cluster (cluster):
YO, insert hook into st indicated, YO, pull through 1 loop on hook (chain made), YO, pull through 2 loops on hook, [YO, insert hook into the chain at bottom of first stitch , YO, pull through 2 loops on hook] repeat once more (4 loops on hook). YO, pull through all 4 loops.
Picot:
ch 3, sl st into back loop of 3rd ch from hook.

RND 1:Ch 4, [YO, insert hook into back lop of 3rd ch from hook, YO, pull through 2 loops] repeat once (3 loops on hook), YO, pull through all 3 loops (beginning cluster made).

This is a fairly easy coat hanger cover I made for a woman I work with. She liked it so much that I made her a total of 1 dozen to give at Cristmas! I even made some for kids hangers, the small plastic kind. I just made them smaller to fit.

(For 5 hanger covers) use 3 x 40 (or 50) gram balls of Knitting Worsted Weight yarn, size 4.50 m hook, Plastic coat hangers and Tapestry needle

17" x 9" x 9" for a total of 35" in length.

none

Stitches: dc = double chain

Instructions
Ch 10.
dc in 3rd ch from hook

I couldn't find a hot water bottle cover I liked, so I made this one.

100 gm Knitting Worsted, any colour, size 3.5 mm hook

Fits a standard size hot water bottle.

none

Designed by me, Aug. 5, 1994.
Stitches used: ch = chain, dc = double chain, tr = triple/treble

Side 1:
Row 1: ch 48, 3 tr in 4th ch from hook. *Miss 3 ch, 1 dc, 3ch, 3 tr all in next ch. Repeat from * to last 4 ch. Miss 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch, ch 3, turn

Row 2: * 1 dc in center tr of 3 tr group, 1 ch, 1 tr in ch space, 1ch, repeat from * to last group, 1 dc in center of 3 tr group, 1 ch, 1 tr in space formed by turning ch. 2ch and turn.

Row 3: dc all across, 3ch and turn

Row 4: 3tr in base of ch repeat row 1 from * and repeat pattern over until 6 patterns in all, ending with a dc row. (Or until big enough to fit water bottle)

Top:
dc for 2 rows, ch3, miss 1 ch, dc, ch1, miss 1 ch, repeat to end, ch 2 and turn. Do 2 more rows and finish.

Follow above for second side.

Finishing:
sc sides together and leave space on bottom for the hanger on the bottle. Make a length of sc to use for the tie and make a tassel. Weave through the top.

I came up with these cute little patterns a few years ago and published them on craftster, and still get requests for them! (And I also credit them for my opportunity to meet and work with the fabulous CrochetMe Kim Werker. ;) )
These work up fast and you can do many variations on both to the "flavours", add bead or sequin sprinkles to the cupcakes, change the fillings in the sushi, the possibilities are endless!
The instructions may seem a little bit wide open, but really, they are open for interpretation and your own ideas for colours and "ingredients!"

Hook size H or one to work with your yarns
Yarn needle
Sewing needle & thread (to make cupcake cherry)

Cupcakes: Various small amounts of worsted weight yarn in the "flavours" you need- ie: brown for chocolate cupcakes, pink for strawberry frosting
- any additional embellishments- beads, sequins
- small piece of red felt for the "cherry"
- small amount of batting/stuffing
- short length of thin ribbon to hang (approx. 5"-6")

Sushi: Small amounts of Black and White worsted weight yarn for the seaweed & rice
-small amount of coloured yarns, orange, green, etc. for your sushi fillings
- small amount of batting/stuffing
- short length of thin ribbon to hang (approx. 5"-6")

Approx. 1.5" tall

n/a

Special stitches:
BPDC: YO, insert hook from back to front to back around post of next DC, YO and pull up a loop, (YO and pull through 2 loops on hook) twice - back post DC.

FPDC: YO, insert hook from front to back to front around post of next st, YO and pull up a LP, (YO and pull through 2 loops on hook) twice - front post DC.

Cupcake:
Use hook size H
Using Brown(Chocolate cake!) yarn,
Ch 4, join with a sl st to the first chain, chain 3 to count as first dc.

I did this project for my husband's aluminum canister. I did some searching of different kinds of stitches and decided to use a raised/relief stitch, it is a kind of textured stitch which I believe is good if I want to not just to have a carrier but also protect my DH's aluminum from dent and scratch.

The stitches is adapted from 300 Crochet Stitches, hence used their definition and instructions on how to make the TR/RF stitches. I also posted the diagram from a chinese crochet stitches book to illustrate the instructions. Hope this will clear some of the confusion. Sometimes it helps to have a diagram together with instructions.

Yarn: Scheepjeswol Superwash Zermat or you can use any worsted weight yarn
Hook: 5mm
Tapestry Needle for weaving

depends on how tall is your aluminum

did use any gauge

Definition: Raised relief - inserting the hook around the whole stem of a stitch
TR/RF2tog - treble/raised (relief)
TR/RF - treble/raised (relief)

Base:
make an adjustable ring or ch 5 and sl st on the first ch. to form a ring.
rnd 1: make 8 sc

A week or so ago my lovely kitten Rogetts reminded me that every once in a while kitties need a new toy. Or they might riffle through your purse, steal you headphones out and pull the insulation off while leaving a big mess in at least 3 rooms of your house. Oh well I reward the little brat with a new set of toys made that day before she could find anything else to destroy.

I had been thinking about making toys for a while now and had been doing some research on the way the cats see and interact with the world. Cats do not see colors the same as people. Contrast and pattern are more important so I picked colors that contrasted with each other. I read that acrylic yarn taste bad to cats from some website of unknown credentials. But the idea stuck in my head and I have noticed that the cats only run off with wool and cotton. So they get cotton toys because it is so durable. Oh and the cats love to move there toys around so I topped it all off some monk cords on each end. The cats seem to love them. I am sure that catnip stuffing has something to do with it too.

• Small amount of two colors of cotton sport weight yarn (the photos is show with saucy sport yarn and sinfonia)
• size c crochet hook, or the smallest size hook you can use with your yarn (you want the stitches to be very tight so the cat nip does not fall out)
• yarn needle
• cotton balls
• catnip

1 inch

Gauge is not very important, just make sure that your stitches are tight enough to keep the catnip from falling out.

What is it that makes fungus so compelling? Mushrooms. They're yummy, they're deadly, they're an adventure at every step on the wet ground. And, darnit, they're cute. This one has a flip-top, which is a nifty added bonus.

• Worsted weight scraps of yarn
• Size G/7 (4.50mm) hook to make a 5” Shroom
• Size I/9 (5.50mm) hook to make a 7” Shroom
• 5/8” button
• Buttons of various sizes
• Sewing thread and needle
• Fiberfill/stuffing
• Stitch marker

If worked with a single strand of worsted weight yarn and smaller hook, 5".

If worked with a double strand of worsted weight yarn and larger hook, 7".

Gauge is not critical.

Shroom is worked in continuous rounds. To help keep track of rounds, place a marker in the first stitch of the round. Move the marker to the first stitch of each round as you go. 

Ch - chain
Sc - single crochet
St - stitch
Sc2tog - single crochet two stitches together