Victorian style lacy

25g nr20 cotton yarn
24, about 6mm bead
12 big bead
hook 1,5

23 cm

10 round = 8cm

I'm trying my best to do my bit for the environment. I recycle paper, card. plastic bags and clothes. I use alot of milk and have so many cartons in the recyling bag every week.I came up with the plant pot in a bid to do something about my waste.

I decided to use alternative yarn which was parceling string. The beauty of this pattern is you can use anything as yarn the only thing that limits you is your creativity .In my house nothing is safe.

Make them to match the decor of every room you have, I promise once you start making them you'll wonder how you lived with out them.

It is a very quick and easy pattern that satisfies those urges to make something now.

Crochet hook 4.5mm
parceling string 40-50g
plastic milk bottle
a pair pf scissors

n/a

I have not bothered with tension ,I did a few rows with different sized hooks and then decided whether i wanted the stitch to be lacey or very compact.

:All crochet terms are uk terms

:Do not crochet the bottom of the carton as it will be unstable you need it to be flat.

:You have to cut the funnel part of the carton off, you decide the length.

Making this pattern could not be simpler, you decide the stitch you want ,you also choose your hook size.Its cusom made which enables you to not only use those scraps of yarn you have lying around. but also to use any type of 'yarn'

You can use this in everyroom in the house.I have one in the kitchen to hold cutlery, in the bathroom it holds toothbrushes,my children have one to hold pens.The list is endless.

http://heldasland.blogspot.com/2009/11/recycled-plastic-bottles.html

Hope you enjoy it.

I created a coaster pattern because I didn't see one that I liked it has a ridged texture you can use it to keep drinks from making a stain on your table

Worsted Weight Cotton
an h hook
and a yarn needle

4"x4"

16 sc and 7 rows= 4"

I used single crochet

Ch 16

Row 1: sc in 2nd chain from hook across
Row 2 : ch 1 sc in blo until the end then sc in both loops
rep row 2 until piece measures 4"
do not fasten off 3 sc in corner st, sc across row, 3 sc in corner st, sc evenly upside 3 sc in corner st, sc across, 3 sc in corner st, sc across row then fasten off and weave in ends

I love to crochet, always looking for patterns, for free or buyed. Thanks God magazines are digital this year!, I used to pay more for deliver than the magazine!.
But I like to make my own patterns too, most of the time I gave them as a gift, and I forget to write the pattern or even take a pic!.
As many of us, my craftroom is plenty of leftover yarn, and last month I made 2 lovely rugs for a baby, no pattern, no pic, again!.
Just 2 nights ago, I dreamed of the nutcracker ballet (wishing December and hot sunny days?, I live in Chile), so the next day I draw what I think is a nutcracker for me. Yesterday was perfect, rain (the first of the year), dark, cold,perfect day for crochet with nothing that could take me away of my nutcracker.
The pic. was taken today, outside for a better light, and believe me, the hat looks fine. He did not want buttons or anything else, yours perhaps will want to be a wallhanger, some pockets , mine is for my son, nothing that he could take out or swallow (LOL, he is grown up!). Both are now sleeping as babies......

Materials Needed
Sport weight yarn (can't say a brand, but it is 100% acrylic)
Red: 2-3 oz (60-90 g)
Black: 1-1.5 oz (30-50 g)
Lilac: 1 oz (30 g)
Blue, gold yellow, white, tan : leftovers yarn
Crochet hook: F/5 ( 4mm)(for the yarn I could use a G hook, but as it is a rug, I wanted to be tight)
Tapestry needle for embroider eyes, teeth belt, legs. ( Do not add any button if it is for a kid)

Final Measures
32” (81 cm) tall
14.5” (37 cm) body 19” (48 cm) with arms

Mine was : 4 rows: 2” (5 cm)
8 dc’s: 2” (5 cm)
If you use another kind of yarn/ hook all over the rug, it is not important, only the measures will change.

ch:chain
dc: double crochet
sl st: slip stitch
st(s): stitch(es)
yo: yarn over hook
dc2tog (dc 2 sts together): [Yo, insert hook in next st and draw up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice, yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Important: When changing colors, do not forget to work the last st until 2 loops remain on hook, drop old color, pick up new color, yo and draw through both loops on hook.

With black ch 68 dc in the 4th ch from hook.
Row 1-4 : 65 dc + 3 ch for turning
Row 5: with gold yellow and when joining new colors, ch 6 and make 3 dc’s on the gold yellow base ch, 4th st over black st of the body (65 more gold yellow dc’s) and at the end of the row, ch 3 and back with sl st and work 3 dc’s out of the body. Cut yarn
Row 6-7: Join black, working all the yellow sts, cut yarn
Row 8: Join gold yellow, work all the sts, cut yarn
Row 9: skip first 3 sts, join lilac. Work 53 dc’s
Row 10-25: work 53 dc’s . At the end, cut yarn
Row 26: with blue ch 8, add red and make 53 dc’s, add blue, ch 11, turn,
Row 27: make 8 blue dc’s, 53 red dc’s, 8 blue dc’s(over the ch base from the row 26)
Row 28-32: work the same colors
Row 33-37: change red for black color
Row 38-59: change black for red color
Row 60: Change blue for black, over red, make 13 sts tan, 27 sts white 13 sts tan
Row 61: same colors as 60
Row 62: Start decreasing the hair, at the end of a row, make dc2tog
Row 63-65: work the same colors and do not forget to dc2tog at the end of a row.
Row 65-72: black is finished, last row of tan
Row 73: Join black (53 sts) cut yarn
Row 74-75: Join lilac (53 sts) cut yarn
Row 76: Join black (53 sts) cut yarn
Row 77-78: Join blue (53 sts) cut yarn
Row 79 : Join black (53 sts) cut yarn
Finishing:
Weave in ends, decide the right and the wrong side and embroider eyes ( ch. in smaller rounds with black), teeth (black), belt (gold yellow), legs (white).
For you or as a great gift. Enjoy :)
rdelvu@gmail.com (for any question)
http://honeyvarita.blogspot.com/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/honeyvarita/3523348008/
My mug and my diffussor were unhappy placed on an old CD, but the CD felt it was still useful, so I decided to add some thread, and imagination, for making nice coasters

-Old CD's
-Thread, scraps, about 1-2 oz
-2 crochets 2mm (N° 4 steel crochets), one for work the sc , the other to bring the yarn up

12-14 cm diam (4.8-5" diam)

Not important

You can see the CD, but that is nice too.

Add thread to an old CD, with one crochet, do sc at the outside border, the other one is for bringing the thread for work.
Follow the line of the diam., so no thread will be on top of more thread.
I made shells
1 row : 1 sc,1hdc, 2dc, 1tc, 2dc, 1hdc, 1 sc all in a previous sc, skip 2 sc, shell, all around the border
2 row, ch 5, sc on top of treble, ch 4, ss on first ch (picot made), ch 5, sc between shells.
Iron with steam or a wet towel.

I also made it with simple flowers, or mimic a spider web with a little spider, they look very nice.

Bright and colourful baskets are made from scraps of chunky wool by making a circular 2 colour or 3 colour spiral base, then making the sides using simple motifs and tapestry crochet See Carol Ventura's blog for more on that technique.
These are firm baskets blocked to shape. The yarn is chunky and the hook is fairly small making it easier to cover carried colours but also gives the baskets their firmness.

NOTE: THIS PATTERN IS WRITTEN IN UK CROCHET STYLE
THEREFORE dc = sc in US CROCHET STYLE
Use dc (sc) throughout in the back loops only

Large Basket
4 x 50g Chunky Wool (shown here in Texere chunky)
A: Bright Pink
B: Bright Aqua
C: Green
D: Purple
1 x 3.5mm hook (Clover soft touch is best)
Small Basket
Materials
Small amounts of
Yarn A
Yarn B
Yarn C

Any size you want, depends on how large you make the base...just continue making the spiral until the base is desired size

Size Shown
Large approx 18cm diameter
Small approx 7 cm diameter

Not essential, but make sure you use a much smaller hook to get tight tension and a stiff basket. I used chunky for a normal knitting needle size of around 6mm, but my hook was 3.5 mm.

To change colours, on last stitch before the new colour, whilst 2 lps are on the hook drop working colour and bring to front of work, pick up new colour and pull through the 2 lps.
Make sure that you have a multiple of 12 sts to fit in the motifs so when finishing the bottom, either stop at correct point, or you could increase or decrease a few sts on last rnd of bottom to fit. I started to work in the opposite direction, this was so that the right side of the bottom is on the inside of the basket, and the RS of sides face outwards.
Working in back loops only (this helps to shape the motifs used later) work in straight rnds, of 1 dc in every dc using tapestry crochet motifs and outer circle starts to curl and then you are working in even rnds in a tube shape for the top of the basket.

Large Basket
Bottom
Two Colour Spiral
With Yarn A, make a slip knot, but unlike your slipknot that pulls in or expands easily when pulling the working yarn, make sure that your slipknot is adjustable by pulling the tail of the yarn
Using the working end of yarn A, make 1 ch (to count as 1 dc) and 2 dc into the slipknot ring (3dc)
Using yarn B, make 1 ch (to count as 1 dc) and 2 dc into the slipknot ring made from yarn A (3dc)
Pick up yarn A again and make 2 dc into the top of each of the 3 dc of yarn B that you made into the ring (6dc)
Pick up yarn B and make 2 dc into the top of each of the 3 dc of yarn A that you made into the ring (6dc)
One rnd is complete, and there should be a total of 12 dc, half in colour A and half in the other colour B.
Now pull the tail of yarn A, from the original slipknot, and tighten the ring in the middle to make the stitches snug.
You are now ready to continue working in a spiral.
Work half the rnd in A, remove your hook and complete the other half of the rnd in B always making sure you are going in the same direction.
I used 2 colours in this way to make the bottom of the larger basket. You need to use the same rules for increasing a flat circle as follows:
Increases
In the first rnd work 2 dc in each stitch
Next rnd 1 dc in next st, 2dc in next st
Next rnd 1dc in each of next 2 dc, 2 dc in next st
Continue to increase in this way, putting one more dc in between each of the decrease dc's on each rnd until the basket bottom is the diameter you wish it to be. Make sure the last round is a multiple of 12 stitches, or increase on the last rnd to make a multiple of 12 sts.
Main Body of Basket
Make sure that you have a multiple of 12 sts to fit in these motifs start to work in the opposite direction, so that the right side of the bottom is on the inside of the basket, and the RS of the sides is shown on the outside.
Working in back loops only (this helps to shape the motifs used later) work in straight rnds, of 1 dc in every dc (i.e. without increasing) using tapestry crochet motifs and the outer circle will start to curl and then you are working in even rnds in a tube shape for the top of the basket.
Hounds Tooth Motif Band
Still working back loops only and 1 dc in each dc:
Rnd 1: 1dc in ev dc using Yarn B
Rnd 2: *3dc Yarn B, 1 dc Yarn D, rep from * to end of rnd
Rnd 3: 2dc Yarn B, *3dc Yarn D, 1dc Yarn B rep from * to last 2dc, 2dc Yarn D
Rnd 4: As rnd 2
Rnd 5: As rnd 1
Plain rnd
Still working back loops only and 1 dc in each dc:
2 rnds in Yarn C (green)
Diagonal Motifs Band
Still working back loops only and 1 dc in each dc:
Rnd 1: 1dc in ev dc using Yarn B
Rnd 2: 2dc Yarn D, 2dc Yarn B rep from * to end
Rnd 3: 1 dc Yarn D, 2 dc Yarn B, 2 dc Yarn D rep to last 3dc, 2 dc Yarn B, 1 dc Yarn D
Rnd 4: 2 dc in Yarn B, 2 dc in yarn D to end of rnd
Rnd 5: As rnd 1
Plain rnd
Still working back loops only and 1 dc in each dc:
2 rnds in Yarn C (green)
Fasten off.
Finish edge using Crab Stitch as explained below.
Small Basket
Bottom
3 Coloured Spiral
Join together 3 colours as a spiral, exactly as for 2 colour spiral explained above and as follows:
Using yarns A, B, and C make an initial 3dc each into the slipknot of yarn A, then made dc's into the next yarns in sequence, so
A worked 3dc into B,
B worked 3 dc into C,
and C worked 3 dc into A.
All travelling in the same direction and working in a spiral.
Continue to work all 3 yarns by making a dc in next dc's for a few sts, then removing hook and working another section. This will make a cylinder shape with stripes spiralling around to the top.
For this smaller pot, I stopped making a circle on 4th rnd, and then just worked one dc into every dc for the top part of the basket, finishing with yarn D.
Fasten off when required height.
Finishing Both Baskets
Crab Stitch Edging
You can find tutorials online (see Resources)
To finish off the baskets, use good old fashioned crab stitch. Attach a contrast coloured yarn, here I used Yarn B.
This stitch doesn't so much go sideways as completely backwards.
Pull the hook with a loop on, into the stitch behind the current stitch i.e. backwards, then pull another loop through, and pull up 2 loops and pull the yarn through these 2 loops, and then work backwards again....repeating this sort of gives a cross between a blanket stitch edge or a picot edge in look, you can see where your 2 final loops get pulled around the edge of the basket.
Fasten off, and wrap last bit of yarn around the edge of last stitch twice, secure and weave end on the inside.

How to Block Your Baskets
Wash them both in fairly hot water for a semi felt to stiffen the wool but to keep the shape and size, whilst it is still damp and hot put the large basket onto a flower pot, so it takes the shape of it gradually widening with the flower pot
Put the small basket around a bottle or small pot.
Both baskets can put onto a radiator or in the airing cupboard near warm pipes to dry and when the pots are removed, they take on the shape of them perfectly. If you don't mind a fair amount of shrinkage, you could completely felt them but do remember to try and reshape whilst felting otherwise you could get a shapeless mess.
Abbreviations (A - Z) Beg: Beginning
Ch: Chain
Dc: UK Double Crochet (US sc single crochet)
Lp (s): Loop (s)
St (s) : Stitch (es)

Here is the pattern for the best way to show your feelings to your loved one. This is three and half inches tall and six and a half inches long.

Main Color: Super Chunky Wool (Bernat Softee Chunky in White)
Contrasting Color: Super Chunky Wool (Bernat Softee Chunky in Berry Red)
Needle: Yarn needle for sewing.
Hook Size: 3.5mm crochet hook.
Pipe cleaners: for shaping the “U”
Fiberfill for stuffing

Size: 3.5" tall by 6.5” long.

Gauge: Does not matter as bigger wool and bigger gauge will make larger heart and letters.

http://www.pixiekitten.com/PixieFree10IHeartUPattern.html

Love is the Word is the pattern for Valentine's Day to tell your loved one how you really feel. The word "Love" is three and a half inches tall and eight inches long.

Main Color: Super Chunky Wool (Bernat Softee Chunky in Berry Red)
Needle: Yarn needle for sewing and embroidery.
Hook Size: 3.5mm crochet hook.
Fiberfill for stuffing

Size: 3.5" tall and 8’ long.

Gauge: Does not matter as bigger wool and bigger gauge will make larger love.

http://www.pixiekitten.com/PixieFree09LoveistheWordPattern.html

This is my second crochet project. It is a rug for my bathroom in the appropriate colors to match my bathroom decor. Like my 1st project, I found a pattern that gave me the inspiration to create my own thing. I am still a beginner, so the projects are fairly easy, and this project is very easy! This time around I learned my lesson and wrote the pattern down as I went along. I did not do that with my 1st project. So I am learning as I go and I am totally enjoying crochet every step of the way! I hope you all enjoy this pattern and I hope it inspires you to do something as well.

4 ply yarn
20 oz. of various color choices - This rug used 5oz. each of Lavender, Teal, Colbolt Blue and Yellow
Hook size I/9
Yarn needle

25x40 1/2 inches

4sc = 1 inch
2sc rows = 1 inch

The yarn used on this project is called "Caron - Simply Soft Eco". It is a polyester fiber made from 100% recycled plastic bottles.

RUG STRIPS (make 10)

Row 1 - Chain 10, sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in each rem ch across to make 9 sc per row, sc 14 rows, Change color and sc additional 14 rows. Continue changing color ever 14 rows until you have completed 140 rows, or 9 bricks of 14 rows each. At row 140 sc 7 rows of one color and finish off at row 147

*changing colors: Each full row has 10 and 1/2 bricks, each of a different color. Each full brick is 14 sc rows; Each 1/2 brick is 7 sc rows. Each full
strip totals 147 sc rows. Fasten off each strip at row 147. You can vary your rows by doing 8 full bricks and 5 half bricks, 9 full bricks and 3 1/2 bricks (etc), or any combination you want.

*If you follow each row to instruction having 10 full bricks and one 1/2 brick at the end, when putting together strips be sure to flip every other row horizontally so that every other row has a 1/2 brick on top side.
I varied each row differently as you can see in the picture. Be creative! ;o)

Rows 2 - 147 REPEAT

FINISHING

Sew strips together using a whip stitch and do each in one color of yarn. NOTE: You could change color of yarn to correspond with one of the colors
of the bricks. That might give the rug a "cleaner" look, but I preferred using a solid color to make a solid line as I think it adds character to the piece.