I was wondering a nice baby dress but very easy to do. I thought “I do not know any baby!!”), when it was done, I show it to my son and DIL. She found it so cute, and told me to sell it to her, as she has a friend with a newborn baby girl. Sell it to her?, No, no I told her to buy a variegated skein and I repeat the pattern, following now the instructions, but if you do not understand something please ask it to me. Remember my English is not that well!.

Newborn-3 months
2 oz lilac baby yarn (60 gr)
3 oz variegated baby yarn (100 gr)
Hooks : D/3 (3.25mm) for bodice,G/6 ( 4.5) for skirt
Tapestry needle
3 baby buttons
3 baby ribbon flowers

8" (20cm) width
13" long (33 cm.)

Gauge: 7 dc 1” (2.5 cm) 4 rows 1” (2.5 cm) for bodice

I use plain color yarn for bodice and variegated one at the skirt, it looks much nicer.

Bodice:
Row 1: ch 71 , dc in 4th ch from hook, and each 6 chs (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch, dc in next 16 chs) 3 times, 2 dc, ch 1 , 2 dc in next ch, dc , 7 dc in next chs. Ch 3, turn.
Row 2 : dc in next dcs, [2 dc, 1 ch 2 dc, in next ch 1 sp, dc in next dc (18) ] 3 times, dc in next dc.
Row 3-6, repeat row 2
Row 7, now working in rounds, ch 1 for turn [sc until first ch 1 sp, ch 2 , sc in next ch 1 (for armhole)] 2 times, sc until 2 sc before ending, overlap the bodice and work 2 sc in the last 2 sts with the first sts. (for button space)
Row 8-10 : sc in every st, including ch 2 for armhole, do not join
Attach variegated yarn with sl st and change to a bigger hook.

I have a niece that just turned 6 months. I have so far crocheted 3 dresses for her of different styles but now I thought it was time to come up with a pattern of my own. It is not difficult at all, and I'm sure there are others who have come up with the same pattern themselves, but since I haven't seen it posted somewhere I thought I might as well share it here. When the dress/skirt was almost finished I started looking for buttons, but I couldn't find any. I used my imagination and took two buttons of the same size although they had different colors and then I used a glittery yarn to crochet over the buttons and they actually look kind of cool, like insect eyes or something.

hook size 3,5

I used 3 balls of Marks & Kattens organic cotton. 50g / 120 meters (1,8 oz /131 yards). 2 brown (A) and 1 pink (B).

1 ball of red metal yarn (C)

2 buttons 2 centimeters diameter (0,8 inches)

you can easily adjust the size by increasing chain to begin with and then add rounds to make it longer. If you follow the pattern with the same yarn I used (or the same kind!) the brace skirt will fit babies 6-9 months.

14-15 hdc (width) and 12 hdc + 4cs rows (height) = 10 cm (4")

It is not that important though!

In edging: hold B and C together and sc round all edges except for immediately under the arm. Instead, leave long piece of C and when fastening C embroider it round the edge there. It's hard for me to explain but I think you'll understand when you get there. The pink slip stitch is on one side and the edging would be too thick otherwise.

ch - chain
sc - single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
st -stitch
sl st - slip stitch
ch col - change color
hdc2tog - half double crochet two stitches together (just decrease two hdc into one)

Front

Ch 75 (or as many as you want) with color A

1. Sc in second from hook. (74)
2. Ch 3. Turn. Hdc in next st, ch 1 *hdc in second from hook, ch 1* repeat from *-* across. If you look at the row you just made there should be a hdc in every other st.
3 -5. Repeat 2.

6. Ch col to B, ch 1, turn, sc in next st, *ch 1, sc in second from hook,* repeat from *-* across. It is the same as 2-5 only you do sc instead of hdc, so it is still in every other gap.
7. Repeat.

8-11. Ch col to A. Repeat row 2.

12-13. Repeat row 6.

Continue until you reach desired length of the skirt (it should reach up to the babys belly button or a little higher). If you like you can start with a wider chain and then decrease 2 st occasionally. My brace skirt has 36 rounds and is a pretty good length for the half-year-old. That means 6 A color sections and 5 B color sections.

37. Ch col to B, sl st 7 (2 in every "gap"). *ch 1, sc in second from hook,* repeat from *-* until there are 4 gaps left, then sl st 7 and cut yarn.

38. In 5th gap from edge, sl st with B, ch 1, sc 1 in same st. *ch 1, sc in second from hook,* repeat from *-* until 5 gaps remains. (25 or 26 sc)

39. Ch col to A. Ch 3, turn. *hdc in second from hook, ch 1* repeat from *-* across

40-42. Hdc2tog on each side, otherwise as 39.

43-44. Ch col to B, ch 1, turn, sc in next st, *ch 1, sc in second from hook,* repeat from *-* across. NO DECREASE

45-46. Ch col. Repeat round 40.

47 -48. Ch 3. Turn. Hdc in next st, ch 1 *hdc in second from hook, ch 1* repeat from *-* across.

49-50. Repeat 43-44.

51-54. Repeat 47-48. Fasten off.

Back

Chain 85, or as many as you like. I like the back to be a little wider than the front but if you don't that's ok!

1-37. Follow pattern for front.

38. In 14th gap sl st, ch 1, sc in same st, *ch 1 sc in next gap* repeat *-* 11 times until you have 13 sc.

39-42. Ch col to A. Ch 3, turn. *hdc in second from hook, ch 1* repeat from *-* across

43-44. Ch col to B, ch 1, turn, sc in next st, *ch 1, sc in second from hook,* repeat from *-* across.

45-48. Repeat 39-42.

49-50.Repeat 43-44.

51-54.Repeat 39-42.

55-56.Repeat 43-44.

57. Ch col to A. Ch 3, turn. *hdc in second from hook, ch 1* repeat from *-* until you have 6 hdc.

58-60. Ch 3, turn. *hdc in second from hook, ch 1* repeat from *-* until you have 6 hdc.

60-61. Ch col to B. ch 1, turn, sc in next st, *ch 1, sc in second from hook,* repeat from *-* across.

63-85. Repeat 57-62.

86. Ch col to A.Ch 3, turn. *hdc in second from hook, ch 1* repeat from *-* until you have 6 hdc.

87. Ch 3, hdc in next gap, ch 3, skip 2 gaps (this is the hole for the button) hdc, ch 1, hdc

88. Ch 3, hdc in next gap, *hdc in "button gap" ch 1* twice, hdc, ch 1 hdc

89. Ch 3, Hdc2tog on each side

90. Ch 3, hdc2tog. Fasten off.

Back to row 56. Repeat 57-90 on other side.

Edging

Take one strand of B and one strand of C. Sc around edges. Also: see notes!

Buttons

Do not join rounds, work in a spiral!
Ch 2 with C.
1. 6 sc in second from hook to make a ring or use a magic ring. (6)
2. 2 dc in every st. (12)
3. 1 sc, 2 sc in next (18)
4. sc in every st (18)
5. 1 sc, sc2tog (12)
Time to put the button in place!
6. 2sctog until you have 3-4 st left. Fasten off.

Assembling

Put the front and back with right side inwards (just decide youself which side that is or look at the sl st from row 37). Either crochet the dress together with sc or sew it together with a strand or color A.

Sew buttons in place.

Well, that's pretty much it! If there are any problems, tell me and I'll try to explain...

This lacy summer skirt was inspired by a gorgeous vintage bedspread pattern. I would never have the patience to crochet hundreds of tiny little squares out of thread to make an entire bedspread, so I designed this skirt as a way to capture the beauty of those patterns in a less painful project. Granted, this is still not a project most could do in a weekend, say, but as you complete each square you get a little thrill of accomplishment to string you along. With a slip or hand-sewn liner, you can wear this beautiful skirt anywhere, or pull it on over your bathing suit for a sexy cover up. Either way, you'll look gorgeous on those hot summer nights.

• Approximately 6 (7, 8, 9) 123yds (112m) / 50g balls sport weight cotton. I used Paton's Bumblebee 100% cotton, Apple Blossom.
• 3.75mm (US F-5) crochet hook
• Yarn needle
• Pre-made slip, or ½ yd (46cm) white cotton fabric and 1 yd (91cm) elastic for lining

small (med, large, x-large)

Hips: 38” (40”, 42”, 44”) [96.5cm (1.02m, 1.07m, 1.12m)]

Length: top of zig zag - 19” (20”, 21”, 22”) [48.3cm (50.8cm, 53.3cm, 55.9cm)], bottom of zig zag - 24” (25”, 26”, 27”) [61.0cm (63.5cm, 66.0cm, 68.6cm)]

Ed. note: See comments at the bottom of this page for tips on how to adjust the pattern for smaller sizes.

Daisy Square: 12 st = 4” (10cm)

Stretchy Square: 7 patterns and 12 rows = 4” (10cm)

I’m so happy to be in Montana where little sheep are running free and being chased by wolves.  No, really! Except instead of wolves it is more like coyotes or mountain lions. The yarn I’ve used for this skirt is certified ‘predator friendly’ meaning that the farm is run with respect for all living things, not just the cute ones. You can read more about it at www.lambandwool.com. It’s certified organic too! I hope you’ll try ordering from them or poke around for a local homespun in your neck of the woods.

I’ve had a bit of culture (and temperature) shock since leaving Japan and I was bemoaning the nippy winds that prevent me from wearing my summer skirt collection during winter.  Cozy yarn to the rescue!  This overskirt is like putting on a sweater, just lower down.  Of a rather chunky weight, it is quick to work up on big hooks and just a little bit delicate with a Kid Silk Haze trim and a nice bell shape.  You can wear it over skirts or pants, depending on how weird you want to look.  Either way, you’ll be warm.  Plus the rhythm of crochet might help you realize where you are and that it is okay (at least it does for me).

• Thirteen Mile Yarn (A) 2 skeins at ~110yds/skein. The color is a natural chocolate brown that comes straight off the sheep. This is a ‘chunky’ weight yarn usually used with size 11 knitting needles.
• 1 ball of Rowan’s Kid Silk Haze (B) in Villian (25g per 229yds). You could substitute another lightweight yarn easily, in either a tonal or contrast color. The gauge isn’t crucial for the trim.  
• Hook sizes F/5 (4mm), and L/11 (8mm), M (9mm), N (10mm), and P (11.5mm)
• ¾”- to 2”-wide ribbon or other belting material, long enough to go around your low waist and tie in a friendly bow. The picture shows a 3/4"-wide knit belt that is 56" long.

Pattern as written has a 36-inch dropped waist that stretches to 42 inches and can be tightened to 32 inches without looking odd.  You can add or remove a pattern repeat to change size 3 inches at a time (details included in pattern).

10 stitches = 4in, 10cm; 10 rows = 4in, 10cm in single crochet with yarn A and 8mm hook.

• The turning chain does not count as a stitch unless indicated.
• Be sure to read the pattern all the way through before beginning.

Waistband

With 8mm hook and thick yarn (A), chain 7.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd chain and in each chain across.  Ch 1and turn.

A super-easy skirt pattern (all single crochet!) with explanations to help you tailor it perfectly to your measurements.

Remember when you first started to crochet -- your grand plans for designing the wardrobe of your dreams, your visions of clothing perfectly tailored to your body, created from fibers and colors you adore... do you remember?

Maybe you tried your hand at a few patterns and wondered why your results were always box-like, formless swaths of chunky yarn that bulk at the seams and look completely homemade (in the worst connotation of that word... y'know, like Eddie Murphy's houseburgers...).

Crochet Couture techniques are going to change all of that for you. Don't be afraid -- it's easier than the highfalutin name might imply. Crochet Couture simply means using the same techniques employed in constructing sewn garments (darts, insets, gussets, etc.) for the purpose of creating crocheted clothing that curves with the body and is tailored perfectly. The best part is that these techniques are generally easier to implement in crochet than with needle and thread.

The easiest and most practical of these to learn is crocheted darts. In sewn garments, a dart is placed within a piece of fabric to help it become more 3-dimmensional (as in the bust line), or to tuck away excess fabric in place of using a seam (as in flat front pants). In crochet, it is much, much easier to achieve the same shaping merely by using internal increases and decreases. With the following pattern, you will create a skirt that fits you to a T, using all sc -- what could be cooler than that? Hmmmm?

To start, you need a measuring tape, a full-length mirror, a pen and a piece of paper. You need 3 measurements (use mirror to make certain tape placement is accurate, level and doesn't pinch or pull the skin).

Your waist -- take this measurement at your belly button. Cut 2 pieces of 1/4" elastic to this measurement. Sew each strip into a ring, making certain not to twist elastic and overlapping ends no more than 3/4".

Your hips -- this measurement is 7"-9" below your natural waist and should be taken at the fullest part of your tushie.

Length -- while facing the mirror and with your feet about 6" apart, decide how long you would like your skirt to fall and make a small mark on your leg. Hold the top of the measuring tape to your belly button and measure straight down to the level of the mark. Make certain to write down this length measurement.

Take a moment to look at how your body changes from one measurement to the next. The increase from your thighs to your hips takes place on your sides and in the back -- so that's where extra fabric needs to be included in order to fit around your curves. If you crocheted a simple tube with evenly placed increases it would pull funny around your tush, sit awkwardly on your hips and stretch in unflattering ways when you move. But if you carefully place the increases and decreases to match your shape you create a seamless, tailored skirt with a custom "bottom pocket" and a waistband that lays flat.

The techniques in this pattern can be used with other yarn weights/hook size combinations. Through experimentation, however, I've found you get the best precision for the least amount of stitches with light worsted weight yarns and a 5.00mm hook. (Following this pattern is a link to instructions for this same skirt using sport weight yarn and a 4.00mm hook. If you want to use a more bulky yarn, I'd recommend a fuzzy/furry one or else the little gaps inside the stitches might be more revealing than you anticipated.)

• A short list of recommended yarns:
  Patons - Katrina, Classic Merino Wool, Decor, Canadiana
  Lion Brand - Imagine, Cotton-Ease, Monet
  Bernat - Harmony, Denimstyle, Berella
• 1/4" elastic (approx. 2 yds)
• Sewing thread
• A needle
• 5.0mm (size H) hook

Custom

Gauge Swatch (don't skip this step!):

Using a 5.00mm hook, db-ch 12

Row 1 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 12 chain, turn.

Row 2 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 12 stitches, turn.

Rows 3 to 10 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 12 stitches, turn.

Measure in the center of the swatch. Adjust hook/tension to achieve this gauge:

10 sts = 3"

8 rows = 2"

Using this gauge and your measurements, you can determine how many stitches you need for your starting chain. Crochet has some stretch, so to create a fitted skirt that hugs your heinie without any ease (ease is the technical term for the space in between the clothing and the body), you should go about 10% smaller than the gauge.

Confused? Don't stress. Contrary to what Barbie might think, math is easy. The first part of this pattern walks you through the steps and tells you how you can adjust the numbers to fit you perfectly. Following the explanation is a pattern for this skirt in 4 general sizes (2/4, 6/8, 10/12, 14/16). To help you along, the written instructions are color-coded to the rows in the pattern that they describe. Try it the hard way first and only peek at the answer if you get stumped.

Our gauge says 10 stitches for every 3 inches. That means there are 3.33 stitches for each inch. If we shave off 10%, we get 3 stitches per inch. So, the number of stitches for the widest part of your skirt should be -- your hip measurement x 3... well, almost. It makes all the other parts of the skirt easier to work out if you use a number evenly divisible by 4. Here's an example:

Let's say your hips measure 39". That would mean you need 39 x 3, or 117 stitches. However, 117 is not evenly divisible by 4, so you should round to the nearest number that is -- and in this case that is 116 stitches. Your starting chain should be 8 stitches fewer than this number. Again, if you don't want to bother with the math, a pattern follows, but it won't fit you as perfectly if you do it that way.

See tutorials for db-ch, sc-reduce, and the bump stitch.

Sock it to 'em! It's winter, but that doesn't mean it's not time to show off our legs.

• 4 (5, 5, 6) balls Knit Picks Elegance (70% baby alpaca, 30% silk; 110 yards per 50g) in Color A (shown in Wild Rose)
• 2 (3, 3, 3) balls Knit Picks Elegance Color B (shown in Ash)
• 2 (2, 2, 3) balls Knit Picks Elegance Color C (shown in Coal)
  (Add approx 5% for each additional 1 inch in length you wish to add.)
• 5.00mm (US-H) hook
• 2.5 (3, 3.5, 4, 4.5) yds 1/8” - 1/4” elastic (thinner is better, clear elastic works best)
• 4 – 3/4” buttons (round 4 hole or barrel preferred)
• Sewing needle
• Thread to match elastic or yarn (if using clear elastic)
• Blunt tip yarn needle for weaving in ends

Skirt as shown is 16” long and sits just below the navel.  Length can be increased in ½” increments.

Instructions for the waistband of the skirt correspond to sizes as follows: XS (S, M, L, XL).  These sizes correspond to the hip measurement at its widest point as follows:

32 - 34” = XS
35 - 37” = S
38 - 40” = M
41 - 43” = L
44 - 46” = XL

Modifications available: can be lengthened.  Make certain to allow for additional length when purchasing yarn. Follow guidelines in Materials section.

8 stitches, 10 rows = 2 inches

The flounce of this skirt is constructed as one long striped panel (similar to a scarf).  Back-loop-only stitches are used to encourage the skirt to bend at the points of the pleats.  After the length of flounce is completed, the ends are slip-stitched together. The waist is then stitched in the round. Finally, a simple belt, reinforced with elastic rings, is created in order to secure the skirt and add a contrasting band of dark color at the waist (a minimizing effect).  This removable belt can be used by itself or with tops, as well as secured to the skirt.

Dart Stitch (ds) – insert hook into next stitch, yo and draw loop through, yo, insert hook into next stitch, yo and draw loop through, yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook. Click here for more on how to work the dart stitch on the return row.

2 Half-Double Cluster (2hdc-cl) – yo and insert hook into next stitch, yo and draw loop through, yo and insert hook into SAME stitch, yo and draw loop through, yo and draw through all 5 loops on hook.

Click here for instruction on how to make the double base chain (db-ch).