Dress up your dog for Halloween and let him be a part of the Trick-or-Treat fun! At the least, he will certainly enjoy the attention.

350 (500, 675, 850, 1000, 1175, 1350) yd 5/bulky weight yarn
350 (500, 675, 850, 1000, 1175, 1350) yd 5/bulky weight eyelash yarn
Size J-10 (6.0 mm) crochet hook or size to obtain gauge
½ (¾, ¾, 1, 1, 1, 1¼) yd 3-inch wide ribbon
Stitch markers
Yarn needle

XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL, XXXL).

12 sc and 14 rows = 4".

http://crochetkitten.com/files/Scare_Bear.pdf

Hi,
Most publishers reject designs, made from rare or discontinued yarn. But i made it. Actually, I get really great yarns from Ebay, which are sold at a VERY low price. I prefer to buy cones - more yarn, which is enough for a large project and I can get such yarns as cashmere, angora, silk, bamboo, alpaca. And I am not talking about blends like Bernat has (Cashmere yarn in which only 5% actually are cashmere!), but blends which have at least 50% of wool, angora and so and sometimes you even can get 100% ones! Cotton ones you can get like 5-7 at least 2 lb cones for as low as $25 - and the colors are super bright! If you are making the projects for sale or for present or just for yourself (as long as they are not for publishers) they are SUPER DEALS FOR YOU!

* Linen machine knitting yarn size#30/3 of coral color, which is similar to mercerized cotton yarn #30
* Size 1.5 mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge

Girl size 6

Dur to the uniqueness of the yarn I think the gauge is irrelevant for this project

Front and back are identical

1. Chain 167.
2. Sc into second chain from the hook, ch5, skip ch4, sc into fifth chain. Continue until the end f this row. Turn.
3. Ch5, Picot (1sc, ch3, 1 sc) into the middle of the ch5. Continue until the end of the row. Ch2, 1 dc into last sc. Turn.
4. Ch1, 1 sc into 1st chain. ( ch5, picot into the middle of ch5) until the end of the row.
5. Continue for total of 32 rows. At the end of 32nd row ch42. Finish off.
6. Join yarn at the beginning of this row. Ch47, turn
7. Sc into second chain from the hook, ch5, skip ch4, sc into fifth chain. Continue until the end of the ch47. Continue the main body part according to the pattern until the end of the main body part. Work second sleeve as first sleeve.
8. Continue according to the pattern for total of 21 more rows. Turn.
9. Ch5, sc into the middle of ch5. Continue until the end of the row. Turn.
Edging:
1. Ch8, dc into seventh sc. (ch5, dc into 6th sc) until the end of the row. Turn.
2. Ch6, work 3dtr into first dc. (3dtr,ch5, 3dtr) into each next dc until the end of the row, ending with (3dtr, ch2, 1tr) into 3rd ch. Turn
3. Ch1, 1 sc into first tr. ( Ch7, 1 sc into the middle of Ch5) until the end of the row, ending with last sc into 4th of first ch6. Turn.
4. Ch1, 1 sc into last sc. ( 9sc into next ch7, 1sc into next sc) until the end of the row. Finish off.

Assembling:
1. Sew side edges with sc together.
2. Make the same edging on the bottom of the body, continue rows in circles using sl st.
3. At the end of the shoulders sew one arch of back and one of front togther.
4. Make the same edging at the end of the sleeves.

This was one of the first designs I made. So the description probably could be better. First I made the outfit and then wrote what I remembered. Well, not the best way to design if you want to publish. My daughter is usually my inspiration. Almost everything I make I make for her. I hope that you will enjoy rocheting this top as much as i enjoyed designing it. And I hope that your little one will enjoy wearing it as much as my daughter during coming hot summer days.

Clea Crochet Thread (100% mercerized cotton) #10 threads (1094 yds/1000 m per skein):
1 skein # 1430
Size 8/1.50 mm crochet hook

Size 6 girls

Due to variety of the stitches it is almost impossible to obtain the gauge.

Back and front are identical.

1. Chain 149.
2. 1 TR in 5th ch from hook, 1 TR in each ch to end. Turn
3. Ch4, skip first tr, 1 TR in each tr.
4. Ch4, skip 1st TR, (1dc into next one, ch1, skip next dc) to end. Turn
5. Ch4, skip 1st and next ch, 1 dc into next dc, ch1, skip ch1, 1 dc into next dc, (ch5, skip ch5, dc3 tog into next dc, ch5, skip ch5, 1 dc into next dc, (ch1, skip ch1, 1 dc into next ch) 2 times). Repeat to end, ending with one ch1, skip ch1, 1 dc into next ch. Turn.
6. Ch4, skip 1st ch and next ch, 1 dc into next dc, (ch4, 1sc into ch5 arch, skip Cluster, 1sc into next ch5 arch, ch4, 1 dc into next dc, (ch, skip ch1, 1 dc into next dc) 2 times)). Repeat to end. Turn.
7. Ch4, skip 1st ch and next, 1 dc into next dc, ch1, skip ch1, 1 dc into next dc, (ch4, 1sc into ch4 arch, 1 sc between 2sc, 1 sc into next ch4 arch, ch4, 1 dc into next dc, (ch1, skip ch1, 1 dc into next ch) 2 times. Repeat to end. Turn.
8. Ch4, skip 1st and net ch, 1 dc into next dc, ch1, skip ch1, 1 dc into next dc, (ch5, dc3toginto 2nd of 3sc, ch5, 1dc into next dc, (ch1, skip ch1, 1 dc into next ch) 2 imes. Turn.
9. Ch4, skip 1st and next ch, 1 dc into next ch, (ch1, skip ch1, 1 dc into next ch). Repeat to end. Turn.
10. Repeat step 9 two more times.
11. Repeat steps 5,6,7,8.
12. Repeat step 9 7 times.
13. Ch2, Skip ch1, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in next ch, ch4, skip ch7, (dc, ch4, dc) into next ch, ch4, skip ch7. Repeat to end, ending with (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in next ch, dc into last ch. Turn.
14. Ch2, Skip 4dcs, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) into ch2. {Skip (3dcs, ch4 and dc), ch2. Into next ch4 ( tr3tog, ch3)3 times, tr3tog, skip (dc, ch4 and 3 dc), ch2{. Repeat from { to{, ending with 93dc, ch2, 3 dc) on top of ch 2, dc in tch. Turn.
15. Ch2. Skip 4dcs. (3dcs, ch2, 3dcs) into ch2. Skip 3 dcs and ch2, (ch3, skip tr3tog, 2scs in ch3) 3 times, skip (tr3tog, ch2 and 3 dcs, ch3. Repeat to end. Turn.
16. Ch2. Skip 4dcs. (3dc, ch2, 3dc) into ch2, skip (3dc, ch3, and 2sc), ch4, 2sc into ch3, ch3, 2sc into ch3, ch4, skip ch3 and 3 dc. Repeat to end, ending with (3dc, ch2, 3 dc) into ch2, dc into last stitch.
17. Ch2. Skip 4 dc. (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc) into ch2, skip (3dc, ch4, 2sc), ch4, (dc, ch4, dc) into ch3, skip 2sc, ch4, 3 dc), ch4. Repeat to end, ending with (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc) into ch2, dc into last stitch.
18. Repeat steps 14-17.
19. Ch4, 1dc into ch2, ch1, 1dc into last of 3dc, ch7, 1dc into2nd on ch3, ch7, 1 dc into next ch2. Repeat to end. Turn
20. Ch4, 1 dc into next dc, (ch1, skip ch1, 1 dc into next stitch) Repeat to end. Turn.
21. Repeat step 20 5 more times. Turn
22. Slip stitch into next 7 dc and ch1. Ch4, (1 dc into next dc, ch1, skip ch1, dc into next dc) to end. Turn.
23. Ch4, (1 dc into next dc, ch1, skip ch1, dc into next dc) to end. Turn.
24. 1 sc into 2nd ch from hook, (ch5, skip ch3, 1 sc into next ch) to end. Turn.
25. (ch5, 1 sc into next ch5 arch) to end, ending with ch2, 1 dc into last sc, skip tch. Turn.
26. Ch3, 1dc into 1st stitch, ch2, 1 dc into next ch5 arch, ( ch2, 4dc into next arch, ch2, 1 dc into next arch) to end. Turn.
27. (Ch5, 1sc into next ch2) to end, ending with ch2, 1 dc into tch. Turn.
28. 1ch, 1sc into 1st stitch, (ch5, 1 sc into next ch5 arch) to end. Turn.
29. Repeat steps 25-26. Turn.
30. Repeat step 27, , turning at the end of 5 blocks. Sl st into next 3 sc, ch5.
31. Continue, following the pattern 2 more times, decreasing at the neck line every row, using slip stitches.
32. Repeat pattern one more time without decreasing. Finish off.

Sleeves (make 2):
1. Ch 94
2. 1 sc into 2nd ch from hook, (ch5, skip ch3, 1 sc into next ch) to end. Turn.
3. (ch5, 1 sc into next ch5 arch) to end, ending with ch2, 1 dc into last sc, skip tch. Turn.
4. Ch3, 1dc into 1st stitch, ch2, 1 dc into next ch5 arch, ( ch2, 4dc into next arch, ch2, 1 dc into next arch) to end. Turn.
5. (Ch5, 1sc into next ch2) to end, ending with ch2, 1 dc into tch. Turn.
6. 1ch, 1sc into 1st stitch, (ch5, 1 sc into next ch5 arch) to end. Turn.
7. Repeat steps 3-6 3 more times. Finish off.

Assembling:
1. Sew side edges and shoulders with sc together.
2. Sew sleeves’ bottoms.
3. Sew sleeves in.
Edging:

1. 1 row of sc around the neck opening. Sl st at the end. (Ch5, skip ch3, 1 sc into next stitch) repeat to end. Finish off.

Hi everybody!
I've started crocheting almost two years ago, and i've adored it immediately.This is the first pattern i've ever write down,so i hope it came out well, and that my english is understandable.
This is a very soft sweater, crocheted with a gray-white warm yarn.
Really beautiful to wear during the middle seasons.
Thank you for looking!

Hook: 4.00 mm
White fine weight yarn

It fits an adult size small to medium.

11 hdc* 10 rows, 10*10 cm

TERMS: ch = chain
sc = simple crochet
hdc = half double crochet
blo = back-loop only
flo = front-loop only
sc2tog = simple crochet 2 chain together

BACK:
Ribbing:
Ch 21.
Sc in the second ch from hook and across, ch 1, turn.
Sc every row working in blo until the piece misure 42cm.

Photo: Laura Kudritzki, Muse Studios

This v-neck, cap-sleeved, raglan t-shirt is crocheted in the round from the top-down. It’s seamless, and the top-down construction allows you to try it on as you go. The sweater is designed to be fitted and has a small amount of negative ease, therefore finished measurements should be exactly, or slightly less than your actual measurements. This is a template, not a pattern, and it allows you freedom as far as gauge and stitch pattern go. For more about how this sweater is constructed, check out the article about it. And to connect with other crocheters who are making it, join the crochet-along.

• Enough yarn for your sweater. Here's what we used in these samples:
• Julie's Version: Be Sweet Boucle Mohair (100% mohair; 120yds per 50g ball), 3 balls in Wheat
• Andi's Version: Crystal Palace Yarns Meringue (40% Merino Wool, 40% acrylic, 20% elastic nylon fibers; 123 yards/114 meters per 50g ball), 10 balls in Vine Green
• Crochet hook:
• Julie's Version: 6.0mm (US J) hook for neckline, 5.5mm (US I) hook for bust and hemline, 5.0mm (US H) hook for waist
• Andi's Version: 4.0mm (US G) hook
• Scissors
• Yarn needle to weave in ends.

Amy's Version

Custom fit

Variable

Special Stitches:

FPdc – Front post double crochet
BPdc – Back post double crochet

Pattern Template 

Gauge

An adequate gauge swatch is essential in this pattern—row gauge is actually not important, because the sweater grows from the top-down, but stitch gauge is. So create a swatch that’s at least 6 inches wide and 3 inches tall. When you’re swatching, you may want to try various needle sizes and stitch patterns to get a fabric that you like. Take your time. Most of the design process happens here. If you’re using a fuzzy yarn, I would recommend a simple stitch pattern—I think hdc works great. And don’t be afraid to use a needle larger than recommended because we want a flexible, not stiff fabric.

Measure your gauge. Make note of it here:

_____________ sts per in/cm.

Andi's Version

Setup

Measure the back of your neck. Multiply this measurement by your gauge: ________ (A)

Divide the number above by 3: ______  (B) Multiply B by 2: ______  (C) (here we’re determining the number of stitches to chain for the sleeves.)

Add C + A: ________ (D)

Add D + 6:  ________ (E) (The six stitches we added form the four raglan “seams” plus two stitches for the front of the sweater. E is the required number of stitches needed to begin your sweater, you’ll need to adjust this number, adding the required number stitches for the “turning chain.”)

Instructions

(Replace the letters with the numbers you got in your calculations.)

Neck Shaping

Using the yarn and hook you’ve selected, chain E.  Place markers at the seam stitches so you’ll know where to increase in the first row. Skip the first stitch, place a marker at the 2nd stitch, skip B stitches, place a marker at the next stitch, skip A stitches, place a marker at the next stitch, skip B stitches, you should be right before the second to last stitch. Place a marker in the second to last stitch - 4 markers placed.

Note: I used double crochet in the template as an example, but you should feel free to use any stitch or stitch pattern.

Deneen's Version

Row 1:  Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in 4th ch from hk, 3 dc in next st (where marker was placed), dc in each st to 2nd marker, 3 dc in marker st, dc in each st to 3rd marker, 3 dc in marker st, dc in each st to 4th marker, 3 dc in marker st, 2 dc in final st - 10 sts added.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), turn, dc in same st as t-ch, *dc in each st to next 3-dc shell, dc in 1st st of shell, 3 dc in 2nd st of shell, dc in 3rd st of shell, * rep from * to * across until 4 dc shells have been worked, dc in each st to last st, 2 dc in last st (top ch of t-ch) - 10 sts added.

Rep Row 2, until the number of stitches at the back is equal to the number of stitches for the two fronts when added together (plus or minus one stitch is ok). In my model, this took a total of 5 rows.

At the end of the final neck shaping row, ch 1, sl st to join to beg of round to form center V.  From now on you will be working in continuous (spiraling) rounds. The center point of the V marks beg/end of each round.

Continuing Raglan Increases

Julie's Version

Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), sk 1st st, *dc in each st to next 3-dc shell, dc in 1st st of shell, 3 dc in 2nd st of shell, dc in 3rd st of shell, * rep from * to * around until 4 dc shells have been worked, dc in each st to end of the round. Do not join. - 8 sts added.

Rnd 2: *Dc in each st to next 3-dc shell, dc in 1st st of shell, 3 dc in 2nd st of shell, dc in 3rd st of shell, * rep from * to * around until 4 dc shells have been worked, dc in each st to end of round. Do not join - 8 sts added.

Continue as in Rnd 2, adding 8 stitches per round until you can comfortably wrap the sleeve cap around the widest part of your arm. (Make sure you stop to try the top on every few rounds.)

Forming the Sleeves

Next Rnd: *Dc in each st to next 3-dc shell, dc in 1st st of shell, 3 dc in 2nd st of shell, dc in 3rd st of shell, ch 2, sk all sts up to next 3-dc shell, dc in 1st st of shell, 3 dc in 2nd st of shell, dc in 3rd st of shell, * rep from * to * once, dc in each st to end of round.  Do not join - cap-sleeves formed.

Bodice

Rnd 1: Dc in each st of the round.

Rnd 2: Dc in each st to 1st underarm, dc2tog twice, dc in each st to 2nd underarm, dc2tog twice, dc in each st to end of round.

Rep Rnd 1 of Bodice until sweater falls just above your hip (or reaches the length you’d like before the ribbing. If you wish, you can change to a smaller hook size just after the sweater falls below the bust to add some shaping.)

Ribbing

Rnd 1:  *FPdc in the first st, BPdc in next st, * rep from * to * around to create ribbing. Do not join.

Rnd 2: Rep Rnd 1 of Ribbing, working FPdc around FPdc sts and BPdc around BPdc sts until you have 2 inches of ribbing (or the length you desire).

Fasten off.

Sleeve Edging

With smaller hook, join yarn at 1st underarm and work 3 rounds of FPdc/BPdc ribbing around cap sleeve. Sl st in next st. Fasten off. Repeat for 2nd sleeve. (Note: if you’d like longer sleeves, you can work plain dc rows before beginning the ribbing.)

Neck Edging

With smaller hook and RS facing, join yarn at the center back of the neck opening, work 1 round of sc around neck opening, sl st in first sc to join.  Fasten off.

Weave in all ends.

Edging patterns present us with the opportunity to transform a garment into something unique and extraordinary. The crocheter is free to decide how edgings will be placed when they are completed. It's fun to piece the elements together and watch them slowly grow into a lacy texture, like stars appearing in an evening sky.
    
I’ve always loved fancy lace edgings. I have updated the classic white cotton T-shirt by adding a lacy collar and bottom trim. The circle motifs recreate this shirt as more delicate, hip and beautiful. I named this the Galaxy Top because its crocheted motifs remind me of a cluster of stars.  

Crochet thread is a great material to work with. It’s inexpensive. It’s small and easy to stuff into your travel bag. It will sometimes even get you a “wow” from someone observing how tiny your project is. Keep in mind that delicate crochet is also incredibly time consuming and will require some patience.

• Mercerized cotton crochet thread, size 10. I used 1 ball in white made by Coats & Clark (325 yds / 297 meters).
• 3.25mm (size D-3) hook
• Fabric scissors
• Sewing needle that fits your cotton crochet thread
• Cotton T-shirt. It should be 100% cotton in order for it to have the same washing properties as your cotton crochet thread. Make sure it’s a T-shirt you like and that it's in good enough condition to justify spending a lot of time making pretty.  
• Straight pins
• Pencil
• Ruler
• Dress form for shaping.  (This is not absolutely necessary, but definitely helpful. I am thankful that I bought mine last summer at a yard sale!)
• Iron (optional)

I used a Medium T-shirt (size 10 from H&M).

Motif measurements are:

Small:  1 ½” (approx. 38mm)
Medium: 1 ¾” (approx. 44mm)
Large:  2” (approx. 51mm)

Gauge is not critical for this pattern. Sizing will vary with the size of your T-shirt. You will use the top half of your shirt as a template for your motifs. For smaller and larger T-shirts just adjust the amount of space between motifs.

A note of caution for beginners: This shirt is made by connecting circle motifs to the body of an existing shirt. There is a freeform aspect to connecting the motifs.

Washing instructions: This garment should be hand washed and dried flat.

Special Stitch:

Overcast stitch: Working over the edge of your shirt, insert threaded sewing needle into fabric and bring back through to the front. Keep the height of your stitches consistent and the tension even as you work your way around the shirt.

Circle Motifs

The top part of the shirt requires 40 rings: 23 small, 11 medium, and 6 large. The bottom trim of the shirt requires 20 rings: 13 small, 5 medium, and 2 large.