There is something about having a sweater with an enormous monogram on it. Even better is a giant letter in Old English script! In this pattern, I’ve paired an Old English font with a fun monogram sweater to bring you Ye Olde Letter Sweater. You will have to do a little math to create your custom pattern and a chart of your sweater before you begin stitching.

This is a very easy drop shoulder pattern that requires only basic stitch knowledge and color change skills to complete. If you want to jazz it up a bit, use front post and back post stitches to create the monogram in relief. Try varying yarn weight and hook size and placement of the monogram for a different look. Create a striped background and do your monogram in a third color. Finish the neckline and sleeves with a picot stitch or shells for a more feminine version. Or, use the method described below and design your own graphic to stitch on your sweater!

• "A" Sweater:
• 3 skeins Red Heart Super Saver in Aran Fleck 4313 (96% acrylic, 4% other fibers; 5 oz/142 g; 260 yds/237 m)
• 1 skein Red Heart Super Saver in Coffee 0365 (100% acrylic; 7 oz/198 g; 364 yds/333 m)
• "P" Sweater:
• 2 skeins Caron Simply Soft Brites! In Berry Blue 9609 (100% acrylic; 6 oz/170 g; 315 yds/288 m)
• 1 skein Caron Simply Soft Brites@ in Mango 2605 (100% acrylic; 3 oz/85 g; 157 yds/144 m)
• An appropriately sized crochet hook
• Graph paper
• Calculator

Custom.

Make a 4" x 4" (10cm x 10cm) gauge swatch then divide to find your 1” (2.54 cm) gauge.

This pattern is written for custom sizing, in a worksheet format. You can print out a copy and fill in the blanks (_____) as you go. 

**Be sure to read these carefully before beginning to measure and crochet!**

If you use the men's size chart from yarnstandards.com, note that for the length, the back hip length is given. You will not need to add anything if you decide on a hip length sweater. If you decide to make a tunic-length sweater, you will need to add 4” to the back hip length given in the chart.

If the sweater recipient is larger around the middle, take a waist or hip measurement. Use whichever measurement is the larger of the waist/hip measurement or the cross back length measurement when making your chart.

The size of the armholes will be equal to the head circumference. If an adjustment needs to be made for larger arms, measure the biceps of the sweater recipient and add 7-8 inches, whichever is most comfortable.

Be sure to carefully read the fit and measurement descriptions before you begin. Double check your math and chart before you start!

Special Stitches

Hdc2tog (half-double crochet two together [decrease]): [Yo, insert hook into next stitch, draw up a loop] twice, yo, draw through all 5 loops on hook.

Fphdc (Front-post half-double crochet):  Work a half-double crochet around post of hdc of previous row from front as follows: Yo, insert hook into space before next hdc from front, wrap hook around post of the st, yo, draw loop through, yo, draw through all 3 loops on hook.

Bphdc (Back-post half-double crochet):  Work a half-double crochet around post of hdc of previous row from back as follows: Yo, insert hook into space before next hdc from back, wrap hook around post of the st, yo, draw loop through, yo, draw through all 3 loops on hook.

Photo: Laura Kudritzki, Muse Studios

This v-neck, cap-sleeved, raglan t-shirt is crocheted in the round from the top-down. It’s seamless, and the top-down construction allows you to try it on as you go. The sweater is designed to be fitted and has a small amount of negative ease, therefore finished measurements should be exactly, or slightly less than your actual measurements. This is a template, not a pattern, and it allows you freedom as far as gauge and stitch pattern go. For more about how this sweater is constructed, check out the article about it. And to connect with other crocheters who are making it, join the crochet-along.

• Enough yarn for your sweater. Here's what we used in these samples:
• Julie's Version: Be Sweet Boucle Mohair (100% mohair; 120yds per 50g ball), 3 balls in Wheat
• Andi's Version: Crystal Palace Yarns Meringue (40% Merino Wool, 40% acrylic, 20% elastic nylon fibers; 123 yards/114 meters per 50g ball), 10 balls in Vine Green
• Crochet hook:
• Julie's Version: 6.0mm (US J) hook for neckline, 5.5mm (US I) hook for bust and hemline, 5.0mm (US H) hook for waist
• Andi's Version: 4.0mm (US G) hook
• Scissors
• Yarn needle to weave in ends.

Amy's Version

Custom fit

Variable

Special Stitches:

FPdc – Front post double crochet
BPdc – Back post double crochet

Last year, as usual, I had my annual break-down in the local Phildar store during the summer sale. Among other things, I brought home large amounts of the ribbon yarn Rivage, which was discontinued.

So – what to do with it? I swatched and I swatched. Ribbon yarn behaves differently compared to other yarns. It is flat and, as it turns around in the crocheted stitches, it creates unique effects.

It is very difficult to make a nice crocheted fabric in ribbon yarn that ends up neither stiff nor see-through. Therefore, I decided to combine knit and crochet in my garment. The body, where I sincerely believe I need some coverage, if only to spare the people around me, is knitted. The sleeves, where a little peek-a-boo won’t scare anyone off, are crocheted. To give the garment better unity, I added a crocheted bottom border to the body.

The crocheted parts of this summer pull-over are in simple half-double crochet in the frontloop only. In ribbon yarn, this technique creates an unexpectedly lacey effect. The knitting is all stockinette stitch.

• Yarn: Ribbon yarn working up at the gauge specified below. I used Phildar’s Rivage (50% viscose/50% polyamide, 103m/112yds per 50g/1.75 oz ball). As indicated above, this yarn is discontinued. Googling efforts have lead me to believe that Crystal Palace Yarn’s Mikado Ribbon might work well as a substitute. Yardage: approximately 1100 (1200, 1500) m [1200 (1300, 1650) yds].
• Please note that the pattern will work with a more traditional yarn, as long as the gauge is the same. The resulting fabric will look different, though, and this difference will be most noticeable in the crocheted parts. Swatch and see if you like it!
• Crochet hook: 6mm (US J-10)
• Knitting needles: 6mm (US 10)
• Tapestry needle to weave in ends and seam pieces together
• Smooth, thin yarn in matching colour for seaming – I used a light blue crochet thread #5.

S (M, L).

Finished bust size: 89 (100, 115) cm / 35 (39, 45) in.

Crochet: Hdc in front-loop only – 14.5 stitches and 10.5 rows = 10 cms [4”]

Knitting: Stockinette stitch (st st) – 19 stitches and 24 rows = 10 cms [4”]

All hdc stitches are worked in the front loop only (flo).

Special knitting stitches:

st st: Stockinette stitch. Knit right side rows; purl wrong side rows.

DVD:  double vertical decrease: Put the right needle into the next two stitches as if to knit them together,and slip them to the right needle. Knit the next stitch on the left needle. Using the left needle, pass the two slipped stitches over the knitted stitch.

M1R: With the left needle, lift the strand between the needles, inserting the needle from back to front. Knit the lifted loop through the front (the stitch will be twisted to avoid a hole).

M1L: With the left needle, lift the strand between the needles, inserting the needle from front to back. Knit the lifted loop through the back (the stitch will be twisted to avoid a hole).

Single decreases:

Left-slanting (used at the beginning of a row):

    K2togtbl:   knit two together through the back loop.

Right-slanting (used at the end of a row):

    K2tog:   knit two together.

Pattern

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With knit