Cardigan
Purple Haze
Author
by Lauren Irving
Introduction
I always come across patterns that I like but want to change. It never fails. Either I don’t like the sleeve or I want to tweak the hem. Add a little here, take away a little there - I just can’t seem to stop myself.
So choose your own adventure. Feeling romantic and girly? Go for the wide v-neck collar and flouncy peplum hem. Or maybe you need a hip-length weekender sweater to snuggle in by the fire...
Materials List
- Euro Yarns Peru DK Luxury (70% Merino/20% Alpaca/10% Silk; 124 yards/112 meters per 50 grams/1 3/4 oz.), Magenta (#09), 13 (14, 15, 16) balls (yardage estimates are for full jacket with collar and peplum hem or hip-length hem).
- Reduce by 1 skein if you omit the collar.
- Reduce by 2 skeins if you choose a cropped hem.
- H/8 (5 mm) hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- I/9 (5.5 mm) hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- J/10 (6 mm) hook or size needed to obtain gauge
- La Mode Silver Oval buttons style # 24785 (1 1/8”)
Finished Size
|
|
Small |
Medium |
Large |
X-Large |
|
A/B Chest |
33” |
35” |
38” |
40” |
|
A/B Waist |
33” |
35” |
38” |
40” |
|
C/D Chest |
35” |
37” |
40” |
42” |
|
C/D Waist |
33” |
35” |
38” |
40” |
|
DD& up Chest |
37” |
39” |
42” |
44” |
|
DD& up Waist |
33” |
35” |
38” |
40” |
To lengthen or shorten body of jacket add or remove rows at waist between rows 37-43 on back, front right and front left.
To lengthen sleeves add rows between rows 47-51.
To shorten sleeves remove rows between rows 33-43.
Choice of 3 hemlines:
Cropped: falls between natural waist and top of hips.
Hip-length: falls to middle of hips, 2.5” below cropped hem.
Peplum: subtle 4” flounce from cropped waistline.
Gauge
With smaller hook: 1 repeat = 1” (.94”) wide, 1 row= 1/2” (.44”), 4 repeats= 3.75”, 9 rows= 4”.
Notes
Pattern is worked from the neck down.
Special Stitch
Shell Pattern (sh patt): (3 dc, ch 2, sc) in each ch-2 sp.
The Pattern
Autumn Spice
Author
by Jessica Rice
Introduction
Call it a bolero, call it a cropped cardi. Whatever you call it, your autumn could use some spice, no?
Materials List
- Bernat Satin (166 yds/152 meters/3.5 oz), 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) balls in Bordeaux
- 6.5mm (US K) hook
- Yarn needle
Finished Size
X-Small (Small, Medium, Large, X-Large)
Women's Size: 0/2 (4/6, 8/10, 12/14, 16/18)
Gauge
5 rows of 2 shell repeats = 5" (12.7cm)
Notes
Special Stitch:
Shell = work [2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in same space/st.
The Pattern
Crystal Lace Bolero
Author
by Robyn Chachula
Introduction
For me, inspiration comes from literally everything I touch. This bolero is all emotions. See, my best friend recently moved to Phoenix and since I live in the east coast, I definitely had mixed emotions. On one hand I was jumping for joy, because it was their dream move, and really, a perfect city for them. But on the other hand, what on earth can you crochet for your biggest supporter when she moves to the hottest city in the US? So Crystal’s lace was born. It all started with the notion of hot weather crocheting. You want something that is small and very portable… Hmm, obviously it must be a granny square. Now for fiber, yes cotton is great, but where’s the elastic in it? And Phoenix does have cool nights… Ah, a light wool/nylon blend. And presto!, the bolero was born. So watch out, you never know when your emotions are going to challenge you to crochet!
Ed. note: Robyn has written a blog post to address common questions about the bolero.
Materials List
- Softwist by Berroco, #9467 Amethyst, (41% wool, 59% nylon), 100 yds (91m): 5 (7, 9) hanks
- 5.50mm (US size I/9) hook
- Yarn needle for weaving in ends
Yarn for this project was generously supplied (and wound beautifully) by Dream Weaver Yarns.
Finished Size
Small, (Medium, Large)
To fit bust sizes 28”-32”, (33”-36”, 38”-44”) and upper arm circumference 9” (12”, 15”).
Gauge
4” x 4” (10cm x 10cm) = 1 granny square
Special Stitches:
Cluster (CL): Yo, *insert hook into ring, yo, draw up loop, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook,* repeat from * to * twice more, yo, draw through remaining 4 loops on hook.
Notes
- Please watch size as you join granny squares. Softwist is very elastic and will stretch, so if you plan on using a different yarn, check fit often. Fit is intended to be relaxed.
- Keep in mind that you can easily alter the garment by changing the layout of the granny squares. For example, if you would prefer cap sleeves, leave off the grannies at the arm. Or if you want a shrug; leave off the grannies at the front panels. The options are yours, enjoy exploring.
- Written instructions are provided along with diagrams. Click diagram thumbnails to enlarge.
The Pattern
Shrug Off Winter
Author
by Megan Granholm
Introduction
Early spring in Oregon is a fickle thing. Some days it’s nice out, some days it rains, most days it does both. And of course, as soon as I see a 55- or 60-degree day, I’m unpacking my summery clothes, even if it’s still March. This seasonal wardrobe change requires a safety net for the first few weeks, though, in the form of a shrug. Shrug Off Winter is just the thing – a bit lacy so it can be worn with jeans or with a skirt, but not so lacy that you’ll freeze in your summery top. Crochet it in a springy color and you can wear it all day; crochet a darker one and it can take you all the way through the cooler nights in summer and into early fall.
Materials List
- Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino (55% Merino Wool, 33% Microfibre, 12% Cashmere; 137 yds/50g) - 8 (8, 8, 9) balls in color 202
- 3.5mm/Size E hook
- 2 small buttons
- yarn needle
Finished Size
Small (Medium, Large, Extra-Large)
Sleeve Width: 17 (17.5, 18, 18.5) inches
Sleeve length: 11 (11, 11, 12) inches
Bottom back width: 16 (17, 18.5, 19) inches
Back length (from neck to bottom hem): 8.5 (8.5, 9, 9.5) inches
(Shown in size Large in photos)
Gauge
2 motifs and 2 rows = 1"
Notes
Cluster Stitch: Ch 3. Make three dc around post of previous dc worked but leave last loop of dc on hook. Dc in next ch-3 sp and leave last loop on hook. Yo and draw through all five loops.
Inc Cluster: Ch 3. Make three dc around post of previous dc worked but leave last loop of dc on hook. Tr in second turning ch (or through the center of the post of the last tr worked) of previous row and leave last loop on hook. Yo and draw through all five loops.
The Pattern
Sleeves (make 2)
Ch 108 (111, 114, 117).
Rosebud Shrug
Author
by Vashti Braha
Introduction
Shrugs don't get any easier than this: it's a simple rectangle and there's NO seamin', NO sizin', NO shapin'. It's also probably the only 1-skein shrug out there, but if you want to use 2 skeins, you can add an edging or make the sleeves longer or make it plus-sized. It works because the yarn is so stretchy, so it does the shaping and sizing for you. There's no seaming because you lace up the sleeves with ribbon. Remove the ribbon and it becomes a scarf/neckwarmer. As an added bonus, the stitch pattern is eye-catching, so this handy shrug will even turn heads. Now, if it would only balance your checkbook...
Materials List
- Patons Katrina yarn (163yds/150m per 100g/3.5oz.), "Dusk," 1 (2) skeins
- Pattern instructions will include tips for using alternate yarns. (Ed. note: I'm told by Patons that Katrina will be discontinued, but should still be available for purchase at press time.)
- Some stretchy substitutes to experiment with, of roughly similar weight, are:
- Classic Elite's Star, 2+ balls (cotton and lycra)
- Cascade Fixation, 2+ balls (cotton and elastic)
- Sock it to Me Collection's Esprit, 2+ balls (seems similar to Cascade's Fixation; available at www.elann.com)
- Schoeller Stahl's Merino Stretch, 1 ball (44% Merino)
- Schachenmayr Only Stretch, 2 balls (40% superwash wool)
- Size US8-H / 5.0mm crochet hook
- 2 lengths of 1.5-inch-wide ribbon, each 1.5 yds long
- Yarn needle for weaving in ends
Finished Size
Small (Large)
5" X 33", unstretched (6.5" x 43", approximately)
The goal is to end up with a rectangle that measures 5" X 33" unstretched (for small size) because that's what I got out of 1 skein of Katrina. The width (# of stitches across) could be up to 5.5" and still fit average upper arms the same; or 6" to 6.5" for plus-sized upper arms. The length (total # of rows) could go as low as about 30" for comfortably short sleeves, up to maybe 60" for long sleeves, depending on how long your arms are.
Gauge
Gauge is not a big deal. Here's the gauge I got: 4 pattern repeats, plus the stitches that begin and end each row = 5". Four rows = 3.5".
Just follow the pattern, because the shrug is like one long gauge swatch anyway. If you are experimenting with one of the cotton yarns listed above, you'll probably need to go down a hook size and and do 5 pattern repeats instead of 4.
Notes
Ch(s) – chain
Sc – single crochet
Sl st – slip stitch
Picot - ch 4 then sl st in the 4th ch from hook
The Pattern
Instant Perfect-fit Shrug
Baby It's Cold Outside
Author
by Julie Holetz
Introduction
A couple of years ago, I made this beautiful “one piece” knit baby sweater using a pattern from some magazine from the 70’s. It started from the back and continued in one piece over the shoulders, picking up one side to finish. It was easy enough but it took me 6 weeks to complete, because I just wasn’t that good at knitting. I thought how nice it would be to have a similar pattern in crochet. So, I adapted it, and voila, here it is. The nicest thing about it is that, with the chunky yarn, it only takes about 3 hours to make. There are two options for sweater bands below.
Materials List
- 1 skein, Lionbrand Homespun Yarn (Bulky/6 oz/185 yards). Note: for 12 months you will need a little more than one skein.
- 1-2 ozs worsted weight yarn in contrast color for edging and buttons.
- Size K (6.5mm) hook for sweater
- 2 buttons
-
Size H (5.0mm) hook for optional crocheted buttons
-
Yarn needle for weaving in ends
Finished Size
6 mos (12 mos)
Length 10” (11”)
Chest 20” (23”)
Sleeve 6.5” (7.5”)
Gauge
10 hdc and 8 rows = 4”/10cm
Notes
Samples used:
Blue: LB Homespun Montana Sky with TLC Lustre Lt Blue
Pink: LB Homespun Boston Rose with TLC Lustre Black
Coral: LB Homespun Coral Gables with Bernat Satin Pink
Green: LB Homespun Florida Keys Green with GGH Samoa Fuchsia
US Pattern Notations Used
Ch = chain
St = stitch
Sc = single crochet
Hdc = half double crochet
Sl st = slip stitch
Sc2tog = single crochet two together
Sweater is made in one piece starting at the bottom of the back side. The turning chain counts as the first hdc of a row, and the next hdc is made into the next stitch.
The Pattern
Begin
Ch 26 (29)
Row 1: Hdc into 3 rd Ch. Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. – 25 (28) Hdc
Rows 2-9: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows before moving on to next row.
Row 10: Hdc across. Fasten off.
Row 11: Add sleeves: Ch 15(17). With right side facing, Hdc into 1 st st, where you fastened off (leaving chain hanging off the hook, wrap the yarn over the hook, insert into first st and complete Hdc). Hdc across. Ch 16(18), turn.
Row 12: Hdc into 3 rd ch and Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. – 55(62) Hdc.
Rows 13-19: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows before moving on to next row.
Row 20: Hdc for 22(24) sts. Sl st in next 11(14) sts. Hdc in last 22(24) sts. Ch 2, turn.
Rows 21-22: Hdc across 22(24) sts. Ch 2, turn.
Row 23: Hdc across. Ch 12(14), turn.
Row 24: Hdc into 3 rd ch. Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. – 33(37) Hdc.
Rows 25-27: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows before moving on to next row.
Row 28: Hdc into first 18(20) sts. Ch 2, turn. – 18 (20)Hdc
Rows 29-38: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows hdc before fastening off.
Fasten off.
Pick up for the left sleeve.
Row 1: With front of sweater facing you, begin at the outside edge. Insert hook into first st and Ch 2. Hdc in next 21(23) sts. – 22(24) Hdc.
Row 2: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn.
Row 3: Hdc across. Ch 6(8) and turn.
Row 4: Hdc into 3 rd ch and Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. – 27 (31)Hdc.
Rows 5-7: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows before 
moving on to next row.
Row 8: Hdc in first 12(14) sts. Ch 2, turn. – 12(14) Hdc
Rows 9-18: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows hdc before fastening off.
Fasten off.
To finish.
Option 1, as shown in Florida Keys Green with fuchsia band (shown left):
With contrast color and with the right side facing you, loosely sc along left placket. Place 3 sc in corner at the beginning of the neckline. Sc around neckline. Place 3 sc in top corner of right placket and sc down the right side. Ch 1, turn. Sc back around, placing 3 sc in the right corner, until you reach the top of the left placket. Place 3 sc in left corner and sc in next st. To make long buttonhole, ch 8 and join with sc to same st. Sc in next 3 sts, ch 8 and join with sc to same st. Sc to end. Fasten off. Add two rows of loose sc in contrast color to short end of both sleeves. Fold sweater along shoulder with right sides facing each other. Connect seams with either whipstitch or slip stitch, along both sides of body and under sleeves. Turn right side out. Place buttons, using buttonholes as a guide, and sew to right side.
Option 2, as shown in Coral Gables with pink band (shown right):
With contrast color and with the right side facing you, loosely sc along left placket. Place 3 sc in corner at the beginning of the neckline. Sc around neckline. Place 3 sc in top corner of right placket and sc down the right side. Ch 1, turn. Sc back around, placing 3 sc in the right corner, until you reach the top of the left placket. Place 3 sc in left corner and sc in next st. To make buttonhole, ch 3, skip two sts and sc in next. Sc in next, ch3, skip two sts, and sc in next. Sc to end. Ch 1 and sc around bottom edge of sweater for two rows. Fasten off. Add two rows of sc in contrast color to short end of both sleeves. Fold sweater along shoulder with right sides facing each other. Connect seams with either whipstitch or slip stitch, along both sides of body and under sleeves. Turn right side out. Place buttons, using buttonholes as a guide, and sew to right side.
To make optional crocheted buttons. With contrast color and smaller hook, chain 4 and join to first ch. Six sc in center and join to first sc. Ch 1, *sc in next two sts, 2 sc in next* repeat to end of round and join. Ch 1, sc2tog around and join. Leaving a long tail for sewing button on, fasten off.
Ballet Sweater
Author
by Robyn Chachula
Introduction
Do you drool over the awesome sweater patterns for knitting? I do! So instead, of just sitting around getting frustrated that I couldn’t find patterns for crochet, I decided to come up with one of my own. My favorite sweaters are the ballet wraps, for the simple reason that no matter how much you eat you always look good in them. This sweater can be dressed up with ribbon ties or button closures, the choice is yours. I challenge all of you to come up with your favorite crochet fashions, so that we, too, can have mouth-watering patterns.
Materials List
- 8(9,10,12,14) balls of Patons Kroy Socks, Norfolk Blue #54110
- 1-inch wide ribbon, 3 yarns or 3 buttons of your choice
- 3.25mm (US D) hook
- Yarn needle
Finished Size
XS (S, M, L, XL)
Actual bust measurements: 32.5 (35, 37.5, 40, 42.5)"
To fit bust measurments: 34 (36, 38, 40, 42)"
Gauge
One full block, see diagram (diagram.pdf) or pattern stitch = 1.25†x 1.25â€
Notes
- This pattern was initially designed in diagram form, so please consult diagrams in case of a written error. There is a PDF of each diagram for sizes exTRa small, small, medium, large, and exTRa large.
- Before jumping into crocheting, I really urge you to create a quick mock-up of the size you want. Ballet sweaters are known for fitting differently than normal sweaters. Please see the feature from last issue on how to create a quick mock-up.
- Kroy sock yarn is very cool yarn. You can wash it in the washing machine and it doesn’t shrink! I recommend washing and air-drying each piece before you sew them together. It really makes the piece a lot softer.
- The turning chains in this pattern have an additional chain to help loosen up the shells. If you find your shells are too loose you can simply decrease the turning chains by 1.
Pattern Stitch:
See stitch diagram (PDF).
CH 12.
Row 1: SC in second CH from hook, CH 1, skip 4 CH, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH, CH 1, skip 4 CH, SC in next CH. CH 6 (counts as a TReble and chain 1), turn.
Row 2: DC in first CH-2 space, CH 3, SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in last CH-2 space, CH 1, TR into beginning SC. CH 7 (counts as a TReble and chain 2), turn.
Row 3: (TR, 2 CH, TR) into CH-1 space, CH 1, skip CH-3, SC into SC, skip CH-3, CH 1, 1 TR (2 CH, 1 TR) twice into CH-6 space. CH 1, turn.
Row 4: SC into TR, CH 3, DC into second CH-2 space, CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into 3rd CH from the top of the t-CH. Finish off.
The Pattern
Back
See Back Diagrams: x-small (small,
Swirl
Author
by Kristin Omdahl, for www.styledbykristin.com
Introduction
Here is your chance to learn a freeform spiral technique and wear it to prove it! This sweater wrap is crocheted with only a few simple stitches, easy to count increases, and requires no sewing! The spiral technique might take a few tries, but once you get it, there is no stopping you. I was so pleased with my accomplishment that I had to show it off as the focal point of a big, soft, alpaca sweater wrap.
Materials List
- Henry’s Attic Peruvian Tweed (665 yards per 8 oz skein), 1 skein each in Cream/Beige Tweed #117 (Color A), Gray/Black Tweed #109 (Color B), Taupe/Black Tweed #111 (Color C)
- Henry’s Attic Prime Alpaca (665 yards per 8 oz skein), 1 skein in Silver Gray (Color D)
Yarn Kit available here! - 5.0mm (US size H/8) for size small/medium
- 6.5mm (US size K/10.5) for size large/xlarge
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
Finished Size
Gauge
With smaller hook: 7 sts and 4 rows in dc = 2”
With larger hook: 6 sts and 3 rows in dc = 2”
Notes
The entire garment is worked with the smaller size hook to obtain size small/medium, or the entire garment is worked with the larger size hook to obtain size large/xlarge.
Vary the position of the increases from round to round, so they don’t line up over each other. This will ensure evenly rounded edges in the completed garment.
The Pattern
Body
Stash Buster Cardigan Vest
Author
by Chloe Nightingale
Introduction
I keep hearing two complaints: people don't know what to do with that one skein of novelty yarn they purchased on impulse, and people don't know what to do with the skeins/partial skeins of yarn leftover after completing a big project. This simple vest is an idea I came up with to bust through part of my stash and end up with something cute and fun, not hideous and scary.
I made this vest using front-loop-only single crochet to give the vest a little more texture. Feel free to sc through both loops if you find the front-loop-only texture distasteful. The pattern for the front panels of the vest is only one example of the many ways you can utilize your stash for the front of the vest, and you are encouraged to try different stitches. The front of the vest is a little wider than the back in order to accommodate bust size. If you are particularly busty, I suggest widening the front panels by adding a few more rows.
Materials List
- Back/hood/fringe: 460 (600, 740) yards of non-variegated worsted weight yarn (I used TLC Essentials in Dark Sage because that's what I had in my stash)
- Front: 175 (225, 275) yards of stash yarn in coordinating colors
- 4.5mm (size G/7) hook or size needed to obtain gauge
Finished Size
S: 34" bust x 20" length (exclusive of hood and fringe)
M: 36.5" bust x 24" length (exclusive of hood and fringe)
L: 39" bust x 28" length (exclusive of hood and fringe)
Gauge
9 sts x 8 rows = 2.5" in sc
Notes
For this pattern, sc = single crochet in front loop only.
The double loop stitch, DLS (adapted from the book, New Design in Crochet by Clinton D. Mackenzie, Van Nostrand, Reinhold Company, 1972): The DLS is worked with the wrong side of the project facing you. When doing DLS for multiple rows, alternate between rows of DLS and sc, unless you would like the double-loop fringe to be two-sided. Refer to Figures A1-A3 for each step respectively.
(Directions for right-handed crocheters):
Step 1: Grasp the yarn with your left hand and wrap it clockwise twice around your left index finger so there are two loops around your finger. Insert the hook into the stitch so there are two loops on the hook and rotate the hook so it goes under the yarn (not shown: wrapping the hook under the yarn in the opposite direction will yield a more secured loop stitch).
Fig. A1
Step 2: Slip the hook under the loops around your left index finger. Catch all 3 strands with the hook and bring all three strands through the stitch (the first loop on your hook) so there are 4 loops on your hook.
Fig. A2
Step 3: Yo and pull the yarn through all the loops on the hook.
Fig. A3
The Pattern
Back and Sid
Copyright
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