Granny Square: Make 10, (22, 36)

Early spring in Oregon is a fickle thing. Some days it’s nice out, some days it rains, most days it does both. And of course, as soon as I see a 55- or 60-degree day, I’m unpacking my summery clothes, even if it’s still March. This seasonal wardrobe change requires a safety net for the first few weeks, though, in the form of a shrug. Shrug Off Winter is just the thing – a bit lacy so it can be worn with jeans or with a skirt, but not so lacy that you’ll freeze in your summery top. Crochet it in a springy color and you can wear it all day; crochet a darker one and it can take you all the way through the cooler nights in summer and into early fall.

• Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino (55% Merino Wool, 33% Microfibre, 12% Cashmere; 137 yds/50g) - 8 (8, 8, 9) balls in color 202
• 3.5mm/Size E hook
• 2 small buttons
• yarn needle

Small (Medium, Large, Extra-Large)

Sleeve Width: 17 (17.5, 18, 18.5) inches
Sleeve length: 11 (11, 11, 12) inches
Bottom back width: 16 (17, 18.5, 19) inches
Back length (from neck to bottom hem): 8.5 (8.5, 9, 9.5) inches

(Shown in size Large in photos) 

2 motifs and 2 rows = 1"

Cluster Stitch: Ch 3. Make three dc around post of previous dc worked but leave last loop of dc on hook.  Dc in next ch-3 sp and leave last loop on hook. Yo and draw through all five loops.

Inc Cluster: Ch 3. Make three dc around post of previous dc worked but leave last loop of dc on hook.  Tr in second turning ch (or through the center of the post of the last tr worked) of previous row and leave last loop on hook. Yo and draw through all five loops.

Sleeves (make 2)

Ch 108 (111, 114, 117).

Shrugs don't get any easier than this: it's a simple rectangle and there's NO seamin', NO sizin', NO shapin'. It's also probably the only 1-skein shrug out there, but if you want to use 2 skeins, you can add an edging or make the sleeves longer or make it plus-sized. It works because the yarn is so stretchy, so it does the shaping and sizing for you. There's no seaming because you lace up the sleeves with ribbon. Remove the ribbon and it becomes a scarf/neckwarmer. As an added bonus, the stitch pattern is eye-catching, so this handy shrug will even turn heads. Now, if it would only balance your checkbook...

• Patons Katrina yarn (163yds/150m per 100g/3.5oz.), "Dusk," 1 (2) skeins
• Pattern instructions will include tips for using alternate yarns. (Ed. note: I'm told by Patons that Katrina will be discontinued, but should still be available for purchase at press time.)
• Some stretchy substitutes to experiment with, of roughly similar weight, are:
• Classic Elite's Star, 2+ balls (cotton and lycra)
• Cascade Fixation, 2+ balls (cotton and elastic)
• Sock it to Me Collection's Esprit, 2+ balls (seems similar to Cascade's Fixation; available at www.elann.com)
• Schoeller Stahl's Merino Stretch, 1 ball (44% Merino)
• Schachenmayr Only Stretch, 2 balls (40% superwash wool)
• Size US8-H / 5.0mm crochet hook
• 2 lengths of 1.5-inch-wide ribbon, each 1.5 yds long
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Small (Large)

5" X 33", unstretched (6.5" x 43", approximately)

The goal is to end up with a rectangle that measures 5" X 33" unstretched (for small size) because that's what I got out of 1 skein of Katrina. The width (# of stitches across) could be up to 5.5" and still fit average upper arms the same; or 6" to 6.5" for plus-sized upper arms. The length (total # of rows) could go as low as about 30" for comfortably short sleeves, up to maybe 60" for long sleeves, depending on how long your arms are.

Gauge is not a big deal. Here's the gauge I got: 4 pattern repeats, plus the stitches that begin and end each row = 5". Four rows = 3.5".

Just follow the pattern, because the shrug is like one long gauge swatch anyway. If you are experimenting with one of the cotton yarns listed above, you'll probably need to go down a hook size and and do 5 pattern repeats instead of 4.

Ch(s) – chain
Sc – single crochet
Sl st – slip stitch

Picot - ch 4 then sl st in the 4th ch from hook

Instant Perfect-fit Shrug

A couple of years ago, I made this beautiful “one piece” knit baby sweater using a pattern from some magazine from the 70’s. It started from the back and continued in one piece over the shoulders, picking up one side to finish. It was easy enough but it took me 6 weeks to complete, because I just wasn’t that good at knitting. I thought how nice it would be to have a similar pattern in crochet. So, I adapted it, and voila, here it is. The nicest thing about it is that, with the chunky yarn, it only takes about 3 hours to make. There are two options for sweater bands below.

• 1 skein, Lionbrand Homespun Yarn (Bulky/6 oz/185 yards). Note: for 12 months you will need a little more than one skein.
• 1-2 ozs worsted weight yarn in contrast color for edging and buttons.
• Size K (6.5mm) hook for sweater
• 2 buttons
• Size H (5.0mm) hook for optional crocheted buttons
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends

6 mos (12 mos)
Length 10” (11”)
Chest 20” (23”)
Sleeve 6.5” (7.5”)

10 hdc and 8 rows = 4”/10cm

Samples used:
Blue: LB Homespun Montana Sky with TLC Lustre Lt Blue
Pink: LB Homespun Boston Rose with TLC Lustre Black
Coral: LB Homespun Coral Gables with Bernat Satin Pink
Green: LB Homespun Florida Keys Green with GGH Samoa Fuchsia

US Pattern Notations Used
Ch = chain
St = stitch
Sc = single crochet
Hdc = half double crochet
Sl st = slip stitch
Sc2tog = single crochet two together

Sweater is made in one piece starting at the bottom of the back side. The turning chain counts as the first hdc of a row, and the next hdc is made into the next stitch.

Begin
Ch 26 (29)

Row 1: Hdc into 3 rd Ch. Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. – 25 (28) Hdc

Rows 2-9: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows before moving on to next row.

Row 10: Hdc across. Fasten off.

Row 11: Add sleeves: Ch 15(17). With right side facing, Hdc into 1 st st, where you fastened off (leaving chain hanging off the hook, wrap the yarn over the hook, insert into first st and complete Hdc). Hdc across. Ch 16(18), turn.

Row 12: Hdc into 3 rd ch and Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. – 55(62) Hdc.

Rows 13-19: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows before moving on to next row.

Row 20: Hdc for 22(24) sts. Sl st in next 11(14) sts. Hdc in last 22(24) sts. Ch 2, turn.

Rows 21-22: Hdc across 22(24) sts. Ch 2, turn.

Row 23: Hdc across. Ch 12(14), turn.

Row 24: Hdc into 3 rd ch. Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. – 33(37) Hdc.

Rows 25-27: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows before moving on to next row.

Row 28: Hdc into first 18(20) sts. Ch 2, turn. – 18 (20)Hdc

Rows 29-38: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows hdc before fastening off.

Fasten off.

Pick up for the left sleeve.

Row 1: With front of sweater facing you, begin at the outside edge. Insert hook into first st and Ch 2. Hdc in next 21(23) sts. – 22(24) Hdc.

Row 2: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn.

Row 3: Hdc across. Ch 6(8) and turn.

Row 4: Hdc into 3 rd ch and Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. – 27 (31)Hdc.

Rows 5-7: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows before moving on to next row.

Row 8: Hdc in first 12(14) sts. Ch 2, turn. – 12(14) Hdc

Rows 9-18: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows hdc before fastening off.

Fasten off.

To finish.

Option 1, as shown in Florida Keys Green with fuchsia band (shown left):

With contrast color and with the right side facing you, loosely sc along left placket. Place 3 sc in corner at the beginning of the neckline. Sc around neckline. Place 3 sc in top corner of right placket and sc down the right side. Ch 1, turn. Sc back around, placing 3 sc in the right corner, until you reach the top of the left placket. Place 3 sc in left corner and sc in next st. To make long buttonhole, ch 8 and join with sc to same st. Sc in next 3 sts, ch 8 and join with sc to same st. Sc to end. Fasten off. Add two rows of loose sc in contrast color to short end of both sleeves. Fold sweater along shoulder with right sides facing each other. Connect seams with either whipstitch or slip stitch, along both sides of body and under sleeves. Turn right side out. Place buttons, using buttonholes as a guide, and sew to right side.

Option 2, as shown in Coral Gables with pink band (shown right):

With contrast color and with the right side facing you, loosely sc along left placket. Place 3 sc in corner at the beginning of the neckline. Sc around neckline. Place 3 sc in top corner of right placket and sc down the right side. Ch 1, turn. Sc back around, placing 3 sc in the right corner, until you reach the top of the left placket. Place 3 sc in left corner and sc in next st. To make buttonhole, ch 3, skip two sts and sc in next. Sc in next, ch3, skip two sts, and sc in next. Sc to end. Ch 1 and sc around bottom edge of sweater for two rows. Fasten off. Add two rows of sc in contrast color to short end of both sleeves. Fold sweater along shoulder with right sides facing each other. Connect seams with either whipstitch or slip stitch, along both sides of body and under sleeves. Turn right side out. Place buttons, using buttonholes as a guide, and sew to right side.

To make optional crocheted buttons. With contrast color and smaller hook, chain 4 and join to first ch. Six sc in center and join to first sc. Ch 1, *sc in next two sts, 2 sc in next* repeat to end of round and join. Ch 1, sc2tog around and join. Leaving a long tail for sewing button on, fasten off.

Do you drool over the awesome sweater patterns for knitting? I do! So instead, of just sitting around getting frustrated that I couldn’t find patterns for crochet, I decided to come up with one of my own. My favorite sweaters are the ballet wraps, for the simple reason that no matter how much you eat you always look good in them. This sweater can be dressed up with ribbon ties or button closures, the choice is yours. I challenge all of you to come up with your favorite crochet fashions, so that we, too, can have mouth-watering patterns.

• 8(9,10,12,14) balls of Patons Kroy Socks, Norfolk Blue #54110
• 1-inch wide ribbon, 3 yarns or 3 buttons of your choice
• 3.25mm (US D) hook
• Yarn needle

XS (S, M, L, XL)
Actual bust measurements: 32.5 (35, 37.5, 40, 42.5)"
To fit bust measurments: 34 (36, 38, 40, 42)"

One full block, see diagram (diagram.pdf) or pattern stitch = 1.25” x 1.25”

• This pattern was initially designed in diagram form, so please consult diagrams in case of a written error. There is a PDF of each diagram for sizes exTRa small, small, medium, large, and exTRa large.
• Before jumping into crocheting, I really urge you to create a quick mock-up of the size you want. Ballet sweaters are known for fitting differently than normal sweaters. Please see the feature from last issue on how to create a quick mock-up.
• Kroy sock yarn is very cool yarn. You can wash it in the washing machine and it doesn’t shrink! I recommend washing and air-drying each piece before you sew them together. It really makes the piece a lot softer.
• The turning chains in this pattern have an additional chain to help loosen up the shells. If you find your shells are too loose you can simply decrease the turning chains by 1.

Pattern Stitch:

See stitch diagram (PDF).

CH 12.

Row 1: SC in second CH from hook, CH 1, skip 4 CH, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH, CH 1, skip 4 CH, SC in next CH. CH 6 (counts as a TReble and chain 1), turn.

Row 2: DC in first CH-2 space, CH 3, SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in last CH-2 space, CH 1, TR into beginning SC. CH 7 (counts as a TReble and chain 2), turn.

Row 3: (TR, 2 CH, TR) into CH-1 space, CH 1, skip CH-3, SC into SC, skip CH-3, CH 1, 1 TR (2 CH, 1 TR) twice into CH-6 space. CH 1, turn.

Row 4: SC into TR, CH 3, DC into second CH-2 space, CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into 3rd CH from the top of the t-CH. Finish off.

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