Baby booties are what I always make up for friends and family who are soon to have a little baby come into their lives. However, when I was pregnant I didn't get around to making any booties for my own little boy and by the time that I had a few minutes spare to do a little crochet for him he was already 7 months old!

So I designed these little booties for him - keeping it simple so that they would suit a little boy (though if made up in another colour they would probably look just as sweet on a little girl) and after a few failed bootie attempts I think I have come up with a pattern that is simple to make up and a good sturdy shape for little baby feet.

DK wool
3.5mm crochet hook
Darning needle (to work in loose ends)
2 matching buttons

My finished booties measure 10cm long by 4.5cm wide. Not too sure what age I would recommend these booties for - they are bigger than newborn size, possibly best fit for around 6 months old but remember that every baby is different so make them early and wait until they grow into them.

I will need to add this later...

This pattern uses American crochet terms. The following abbreviations used are:

ch - chain
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet
sl st - slip stitch
tog - together (decreasing)

At the end of each row sl st to the first sc worked in the previous row

Left bootie

Row 1: ch 15, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 13 sc, 4 sc in first back loop, 12 sc, 2 sc in last back loop. (32 sc)

Row 2: ch 1, 12 sc, 2 sc in next 4 sc, 14 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sc. (38 sc)

Row 3: ch 1, 12 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc* x 4, 14 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc. (44 sc)

Row 4: ch 1, 12 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc* x 4, 13 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 3 sc. (50 sc)

Row 5: ch 1, sc around (50 sc)

Row 6: ch 1, sc around in back loops only (50 sc)

Row 7&8: ch 1, sc around (50 sc)

Row 9: ch 1, 8 sc, *2 dc tog, 2 dc* x 4, sc around (46 sc)

Row 10: ch 1, 7 sc, *2 dc tog, 1 dc* x 4, sc around (42 sc)

Row 11: ch 1, 6 sc, 2 dc tog in next 4 dc, sc around (38 sc)

Row 12: 16 sl st, *ch 1 turn, 3 sc* x 11, ch 4, sl st into 3rd sc, sl st down edge of strap and continue to sl st to start of row.

Finish off.

Right bootie

Work Rows 1 to 11 as for Left bootie.

Row 12: ch 1, 2 sc, ch 1 turn, 2 sc, 1 sc into first ch *ch 1 turn, 3 sc* x 10, ch 4, sl st into 3rd sc, sl st down edge of strap and continue to sl st all the way round to start of row.

Finish off.

Every baby should have a version of this highly customizable kimono wrap in his or her wardrobe. Make it in a camouflage varigated yarn or make a very girly version in pink with a picot or shell edging and a flower appliqué. Anything you can think of!
This kimono wrap is worked in one piece from the neck down in hdc. Gauge of example (12 months size) is 14 hdc / cm. However, if you follow the measurements given throughout the pattern any gauge and stitch can be used.

The example kimono wrap was made using

- a 4,5 mm hook (US 7)
- a 4 mm hook (US 6) for the ties
- 2.5 skein of Wibra Iris yarn (100% acrylic, 125 m / 50 g)
- a small amount of orange yarn of the edging in similar weight and material as the main yarn used.

Baby Sizes: approx. 6 months ( 12 months, 18 months)

My daughter Rosalinde (at the moment of this writing about 8,5 months old) is wearing the 12 month size in the picture fully closed. As you can see it is still rather big on her. But, better too big then too small!

Gauge of example (12 months size) is 14 hdc / 10 cm (4 "). However, if you follow the measurements given throughout the pattern any gauge and stitch can be used.

- hdc-inc = 3 hdc in 1 stitch
- hdc-dec = decreasing 1 hdc over next 2 stitches as follows: [yo, insert hook in next st, yo, draw lp through] twice, yo, draw through all 5 lps on hook.

Body of kimono wrap

1. Start with a hdc foundation row consisting off 29 (33, 37) hdc ( 20,7 , 23,5 , 26,4 cm)

2. Ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in first stitch, hdc-inc in next stitch, 1 hdc in each of the next 7 (8, 9) stitches, hdc-inc, 1 hdc in each of the next 9 (11, 13) stitches, hdc-inc, 1 hdc in each of the next 7 (8, 9) stitches, hdc-inc, 2 hdc in last stitch.

3. Ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in first stitch, hdc in each stitch, with hdc-inc in the middle of each hdc-inc of the previous row. End with 2 hdc in last stitch.

Repeat 3. till the length between the second and third hdc-inc (measured from the middle hdc of the hdc-inc to the other middle hdc) is 23,5 cm (27,5 cm, 30 cm)

4. In this row the armhole will be closed. Ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in first stitch, hdc in each stitch until the next hdc-inc, then * hdc in the first 2 stitches of the hdc-inc of the previous row. Skip the next length of hdc's and hdc directly into the middle hdc of the hdc-inc of the previous row *. Hdc across until next hdc-inc, then repeat from * to *. Hdc across till end of row and end with 2 hdc in last stitch.

5. Ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in first stitch, hdc in each stitch across, end with 2 hdc in last stitch.

Repeat 5. till the diagonal parts of the left and right front panel are each only 2 stitches away from being the same width as the back panel of the kimono wrap. (With the left front panel the panel is meant that is on the left in the picture above.)

6. Ch 1, turn, 2 hdc in first stitch, hdc in each stitch across until the left front panel is reached. Then hdc in next stitch, ch 1, skip 1 stitch and continue with hdc across , end with 2 hdc in last stitch.

7. Ch 1, turn, hdc across.

Repeat 7. till the kimono wrap measures approx. 24 cm (26,5 cm, 29 cm) from shoulder till bottom hem.

Edging

With right side facing, ch 1, sc up front opening until you reach the lower corner of the diagonal. Without ending off, make a chain about 25 cm long (in my case 45 chains). Switch to the smaller hook and slip stitch back along the chain. When you reach the corner of the diagonal again, switch to bigger hook and sc to corner. (Tie made).
Then continue to sc around neckline and down other front opening until you reach the lower corner of the diagonal, make tie with the same amount of chains used before. Then continue with sc around, 3 sc in corner stitch, sc around hemline, 3 sc in other corner stitch and join with a slip stitch. Fasten off.

Also make 2 separate ties and sew these firmly on the sides (where the side seam would be if there was one) on the same height as the other 2 ties are.

You can of course use buttons instead of ties although in my opinion the ties have the advantage that they can be adjusted so the wrap will fit longer. Buttonholes can be made by skipping the appropriate amount of chains when making the edging. For a sturdier finish do another round of sc along hemline and opening. Make the last round of edging with the right side facing.

Sleeves

1. With right side facing, attach yarn at bottom of armhole, ch 2. Hdc around and join with a slip stitch in the top of the ch 2.

2. Ch 2, turn, hdc around and join with a slip stitch in the top of the ch 2.

3. Ch 2, turn, hdc-dec, hdc around until last 2 stitches, hdc-dec and join with a slip stitch in the top of the ch 2.

Repeat 2. and 3. until the width of the sleeve measures approx. 8 cm (9 cm, 10 cm).
Then repeat 2. until the sleeve measures 15 cm (17 cm, 19 cm) in length.

When doing an edging in contrasting yarn, finish off. Join yarn in new color with right side facing, ch 1 and sc around. Join with a slip stitch in the top of the ch 1. Finish of and weave in ends.
Repeat with other sleeve.

I made pockets and cuffs for these 5 jackets in 2001. They are really easy to do. I don’t like padded shoulders and cut them out. I’ve saved them and used them to make pockets. On others I have just made squares of single chain. These you can make any size. I also made a collar for one that didn’t have one. :up:

Shoulder pads of matching or contrasting color to the jacket.
Matching or contrasting colored yarn
Yarn needle
Size G (6 US) or size to obtain gauge

It depends on the size of the shoulder pad and how deep you want the pocket.

Depends on how tight a crocheter you are.

For pockets:
With one shoulder pad, attach yarn and blanket stitch from top right and to end. DO NOT FASTEN OFF.
Rnd 1: sc in each of the stitches to end. Ch 1 and turn.
Rnd 2: 1 sc in each sc of previous rnd. Ch 1 and turn.
Repeat rnd 2 to desired depth of pocket. Fasten off
(I usually crocheted about 1 & ½ to 2 inches on my pads.)

Finishing:
Measure each side of jacket, about 1&1/2 inches away from the edge, and about 2 inches from bottom of jacket and pin in place. Using the yarn needle, sew in place. Repeat for other pocket.

For cuffs:
If you’re like me and have cuffs that are too long, this was my solution.
Attach yarn and blanket stitch all round the cuff. DO NOT FASTEN OFF.
Rnd 1: sc all around the cuff. Ch 1 and turn
Rnd 2: 1 sc in each sc of previous rnd. Ch 1 and turn.
Repeat rnd 2 to desired width or you can get fancy and make a ruffle using groups of shell stitches.

Shell stitch:
In one stitch, * 4 trc, sc in next 2 sc, repeat from* around to the end. Sl st. and fasten off. Weave in all ends.

For Collars:
Stitches used:sc, and alternating sc and dc. SEE PHOTO.

Notes: Measure inside of collar on jacket. This will guide you as to how many stitches needed for base row.

Attach yarn and blanket stitch all round the top edge of jacket. DO NOT FASTEN OFF.
Rnd 1: sc all around the cuff. Ch 2 and turn.
Rnd 2: * 1 sc in 1st sc, 1 dc in the next dc* repeat from * to end. Ch 1 and turn.
Continue to work this pattern evenly until it measures 3 inches or desired width. Sc all around edge and fasten off.

I made myself a shrug using a very basic concept, aka Basic Shrug 101.

Yarn: 2 skeins, Light & Lofty, Antique Rose
Hook: Red Heart Crystallites P-16 (11.5mm)

It was made specifically to fit me, but you can easily modify it to fit you.

None taken

Pattern uses US terminology
ch(s) chain(s)
sl st slip stitch
dc(s) double crochet(s)
st(s) stitch(es)
dc dec double crochet decrease
yo yarn over
dc-foundation ch
There is also a tutorial called Triple Base Chain that shows how to do the dc-foundation ch, too

Back:
Row 1: Ch 3, using dc-foundation ch, make 37 dc. Ch 2, turn.
Row 2: Skip first dc, work dc into each dc of previous row, dc into turning ch. Ch 2, turn. (37 dcs)

Back when I lived in California, I taught a free workshop at my LYS on how to make an easy shrug. This was the pattern I used. I hope you enjoy it as much as my class and I did. It's great to wear over a tank or dress.

3,4 or 5 hanks of Tahki “Cotton Classic II” (100% mercerized cotton, worsted weight, 1.75 oz (50 g) 74 yds (68 m)per hank). Size H 5.0 mm hook.

S (12in arm circ/ 38in length), M (14in arm circ/ 40in length), L (18in arm circ/ 42 in length)

2 open fans & 9 rows= 6'(15.24 cm)

Fan: 1 tr, [ch 2, 1tr]4 times.

Ch 47(57,67)

Row 1: 1sc into 2nd ch from hook, *Ch 1, sk 4ch, into next ch work a Fan of 1 tr, [ch 2, 1tr] 4 times, then ch 1, sk 4ch, 1 sc into next ch; rep from * to last 5 ch, 1 ch, sk 4ch, work [1tr, ch2] twice and 1tr into last ch. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, 1sc into first st, *Ch3, sk next 2ch sp, 1dc into next sp**, Ch2, sk next tr, sc & tr then work 1dc into first ch2 sp of next Fan, ch3, work 1sc into center tr of next Fan; rep from * ending last rep at **, Ch1, 1tr into last sc, sk tch. Turn.

Row 3: Ch7 ( counts as 1tr and ch2), sk first tr, work [ 1tr, ch2, 1tr] into the next ch1 sp, ch1 sk ch3 sp, 1sc into next sc, *ch1, sk next ch3 sp, work Fan into next ch2 sp, ch1, sk next ch3 sp, 1sc into next sc; rep from * to end, sk tch. Turn.

Row 4: Ch6 (counts as 1tr, ch1), sk first tr, work 1dc into next ch2 sp, ch3, 1sc into center tr of Fan, *ch3, sk next ch2 sp, 1dc into next ch2 sp, ch2, sk next tr, sc &tr, work 1dc into next ch2 sp, ch3, 1sc into center tr of Fan; rep from * ending last rep in 5th ch(counting from bottom-up) of tch. Turn.

Row 5: Ch1, *1sc into sc, ch1, sk next ch3 sp, Fan into next ch2 sp, ch1, sk next ch3 sp; rep from * to last sc, 1sc into sc, 1ch, sk next ch3 sp, work [1tr, ch2] twice & tr all into 5ch of tch. Turn.

Repeat rows 2-5 until piece measures 38"( 40", 42"). End with either a Row 2 or 4 so that both sides will be flat. Fasten off. Seam arms in desired fashion( I used single crochet to bind both sides together then continued with the edging). Work edging of sc around all edges.

Last year, as usual, I had my annual break-down in the local Phildar store during the summer sale. Among other things, I brought home large amounts of the ribbon yarn Rivage, which was discontinued.

So – what to do with it? I swatched and I swatched. Ribbon yarn behaves differently compared to other yarns. It is flat and, as it turns around in the crocheted stitches, it creates unique effects.

It is very difficult to make a nice crocheted fabric in ribbon yarn that ends up neither stiff nor see-through. Therefore, I decided to combine knit and crochet in my garment. The body, where I sincerely believe I need some coverage, if only to spare the people around me, is knitted. The sleeves, where a little peek-a-boo won’t scare anyone off, are crocheted. To give the garment better unity, I added a crocheted bottom border to the body.

The crocheted parts of this summer pull-over are in simple half-double crochet in the frontloop only. In ribbon yarn, this technique creates an unexpectedly lacey effect. The knitting is all stockinette stitch.

• Yarn: Ribbon yarn working up at the gauge specified below. I used Phildar’s Rivage (50% viscose/50% polyamide, 103m/112yds per 50g/1.75 oz ball). As indicated above, this yarn is discontinued. Googling efforts have lead me to believe that Crystal Palace Yarn’s Mikado Ribbon might work well as a substitute. Yardage: approximately 1100 (1200, 1500) m [1200 (1300, 1650) yds].
• Please note that the pattern will work with a more traditional yarn, as long as the gauge is the same. The resulting fabric will look different, though, and this difference will be most noticeable in the crocheted parts. Swatch and see if you like it!
• Crochet hook: 6mm (US J-10)
• Knitting needles: 6mm (US 10)
• Tapestry needle to weave in ends and seam pieces together
• Smooth, thin yarn in matching colour for seaming – I used a light blue crochet thread #5.

S (M, L).

Finished bust size: 89 (100, 115) cm / 35 (39, 45) in.

Crochet: Hdc in front-loop only – 14.5 stitches and 10.5 rows = 10 cms [4”]

Knitting: Stockinette stitch (st st) – 19 stitches and 24 rows = 10 cms [4”]

All hdc stitches are worked in the front loop only (flo).

Special knitting stitches:

st st: Stockinette stitch. Knit right side rows; purl wrong side rows.

DVD:  double vertical decrease: Put the right needle into the next two stitches as if to knit them together,and slip them to the right needle. Knit the next stitch on the left needle. Using the left needle, pass the two slipped stitches over the knitted stitch.

M1R: With the left needle, lift the strand between the needles, inserting the needle from back to front. Knit the lifted loop through the front (the stitch will be twisted to avoid a hole).

M1L: With the left needle, lift the strand between the needles, inserting the needle from front to back. Knit the lifted loop through the back (the stitch will be twisted to avoid a hole).

Single decreases:

Left-slanting (used at the beginning of a row):

    K2togtbl:   knit two together through the back loop.

Right-slanting (used at the end of a row):

    K2tog:   knit two together.

Pattern

Back

With knit

This lacy summer skirt was inspired by a gorgeous vintage bedspread pattern. I would never have the patience to crochet hundreds of tiny little squares out of thread to make an entire bedspread, so I designed this skirt as a way to capture the beauty of those patterns in a less painful project. Granted, this is still not a project most could do in a weekend, say, but as you complete each square you get a little thrill of accomplishment to string you along. With a slip or hand-sewn liner, you can wear this beautiful skirt anywhere, or pull it on over your bathing suit for a sexy cover up. Either way, you'll look gorgeous on those hot summer nights.

• Approximately 6 (7, 8, 9) 123yds (112m) / 50g balls sport weight cotton. I used Paton's Bumblebee 100% cotton, Apple Blossom.
• 3.75mm (US F-5) crochet hook
• Yarn needle
• Pre-made slip, or ½ yd (46cm) white cotton fabric and 1 yd (91cm) elastic for lining

small (med, large, x-large)

Hips: 38” (40”, 42”, 44”) [96.5cm (1.02m, 1.07m, 1.12m)]

Length: top of zig zag - 19” (20”, 21”, 22”) [48.3cm (50.8cm, 53.3cm, 55.9cm)], bottom of zig zag - 24” (25”, 26”, 27”) [61.0cm (63.5cm, 66.0cm, 68.6cm)]

Ed. note: See comments at the bottom of this page for tips on how to adjust the pattern for smaller sizes.

Daisy Square: 12 st = 4” (10cm)

Stretchy Square: 7 patterns and 12 rows = 4” (10cm)

Edging patterns present us with the opportunity to transform a garment into something unique and extraordinary. The crocheter is free to decide how edgings will be placed when they are completed. It's fun to piece the elements together and watch them slowly grow into a lacy texture, like stars appearing in an evening sky.
    
I’ve always loved fancy lace edgings. I have updated the classic white cotton T-shirt by adding a lacy collar and bottom trim. The circle motifs recreate this shirt as more delicate, hip and beautiful. I named this the Galaxy Top because its crocheted motifs remind me of a cluster of stars.  

Crochet thread is a great material to work with. It’s inexpensive. It’s small and easy to stuff into your travel bag. It will sometimes even get you a “wow” from someone observing how tiny your project is. Keep in mind that delicate crochet is also incredibly time consuming and will require some patience.

• Mercerized cotton crochet thread, size 10. I used 1 ball in white made by Coats & Clark (325 yds / 297 meters).
• 3.25mm (size D-3) hook
• Fabric scissors
• Sewing needle that fits your cotton crochet thread
• Cotton T-shirt. It should be 100% cotton in order for it to have the same washing properties as your cotton crochet thread. Make sure it’s a T-shirt you like and that it's in good enough condition to justify spending a lot of time making pretty.  
• Straight pins
• Pencil
• Ruler
• Dress form for shaping.  (This is not absolutely necessary, but definitely helpful. I am thankful that I bought mine last summer at a yard sale!)
• Iron (optional)

I used a Medium T-shirt (size 10 from H&M).

Motif measurements are:

Small:  1 ½” (approx. 38mm)
Medium: 1 ¾” (approx. 44mm)
Large:  2” (approx. 51mm)

Gauge is not critical for this pattern. Sizing will vary with the size of your T-shirt. You will use the top half of your shirt as a template for your motifs. For smaller and larger T-shirts just adjust the amount of space between motifs.

A note of caution for beginners: This shirt is made by connecting circle motifs to the body of an existing shirt. There is a freeform aspect to connecting the motifs.

Washing instructions: This garment should be hand washed and dried flat.

Special Stitch:

Overcast stitch: Working over the edge of your shirt, insert threaded sewing needle into fabric and bring back through to the front. Keep the height of your stitches consistent and the tension even as you work your way around the shirt.

Circle Motifs

The top part of the shirt requires 40 rings: 23 small, 11 medium, and 6 large. The bottom trim of the shirt requires 20 rings: 13 small, 5 medium, and 2 large.

For me, inspiration comes from literally everything I touch. This bolero is all emotions.  See, my best friend recently moved to Phoenix and since I live in the east coast, I definitely had mixed emotions. On one hand I was jumping for joy, because it was their dream move, and really, a perfect city for them. But on the other hand, what on earth can you crochet for your biggest supporter when she moves to the hottest city in the US? So Crystal’s lace was born. It all started with the notion of hot weather crocheting.  You want something that is small and very portable… Hmm, obviously it must be a granny square. Now for fiber, yes cotton is great, but where’s the elastic in it? And Phoenix does have cool nights… Ah, a light wool/nylon blend. And presto!, the bolero was born. So watch out, you never know when your emotions are going to challenge you to crochet!

Ed. note: Robyn has written a blog post to address common questions about the bolero.

• Softwist by Berroco, #9467 Amethyst, (41% wool, 59% nylon), 100 yds (91m): 5 (7, 9) hanks
• 5.50mm (US size I/9) hook
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Yarn for this project was generously supplied (and wound beautifully) by Dream Weaver Yarns.

Small, (Medium, Large)

To fit bust sizes 28”-32”, (33”-36”, 38”-44”) and upper arm circumference 9” (12”, 15”).

4” x 4” (10cm x 10cm) = 1 granny square

Special Stitches:

Cluster (CL): Yo, *insert hook into ring, yo, draw up loop, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook,* repeat from * to * twice more, yo, draw through remaining 4 loops on hook.  

• 
• Please watch size as you join granny squares. Softwist is very elastic and will stretch, so if you plan on using a different yarn, check fit often. Fit is intended to be relaxed.
• Keep in mind that you can easily alter the garment by changing the layout of the granny squares. For example, if you would prefer cap sleeves, leave off the grannies at the arm. Or if you want a shrug; leave off the grannies at the front panels. The options are yours, enjoy exploring.
• Written instructions are provided along with diagrams. Click diagram thumbnails to enlarge.

Granny Square: Make 10, (22, 36)

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