Early spring in Oregon is a fickle thing. Some days it’s nice out, some days it rains, most days it does both. And of course, as soon as I see a 55- or 60-degree day, I’m unpacking my summery clothes, even if it’s still March. This seasonal wardrobe change requires a safety net for the first few weeks, though, in the form of a shrug. Shrug Off Winter is just the thing – a bit lacy so it can be worn with jeans or with a skirt, but not so lacy that you’ll freeze in your summery top. Crochet it in a springy color and you can wear it all day; crochet a darker one and it can take you all the way through the cooler nights in summer and into early fall.

• Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino (55% Merino Wool, 33% Microfibre, 12% Cashmere; 137 yds/50g) - 8 (8, 8, 9) balls in color 202
• 3.5mm/Size E hook
• 2 small buttons
• yarn needle

Small (Medium, Large, Extra-Large)

Sleeve Width: 17 (17.5, 18, 18.5) inches
Sleeve length: 11 (11, 11, 12) inches
Bottom back width: 16 (17, 18.5, 19) inches
Back length (from neck to bottom hem): 8.5 (8.5, 9, 9.5) inches

(Shown in size Large in photos) 

2 motifs and 2 rows = 1"

Cluster Stitch: Ch 3. Make three dc around post of previous dc worked but leave last loop of dc on hook.  Dc in next ch-3 sp and leave last loop on hook. Yo and draw through all five loops.

Inc Cluster: Ch 3. Make three dc around post of previous dc worked but leave last loop of dc on hook.  Tr in second turning ch (or through the center of the post of the last tr worked) of previous row and leave last loop on hook. Yo and draw through all five loops.

Sleeves (make 2)

Ch 108 (111, 114, 117).

Shrugs don't get any easier than this: it's a simple rectangle and there's NO seamin', NO sizin', NO shapin'. It's also probably the only 1-skein shrug out there, but if you want to use 2 skeins, you can add an edging or make the sleeves longer or make it plus-sized. It works because the yarn is so stretchy, so it does the shaping and sizing for you. There's no seaming because you lace up the sleeves with ribbon. Remove the ribbon and it becomes a scarf/neckwarmer. As an added bonus, the stitch pattern is eye-catching, so this handy shrug will even turn heads. Now, if it would only balance your checkbook...

• Patons Katrina yarn (163yds/150m per 100g/3.5oz.), "Dusk," 1 (2) skeins
• Pattern instructions will include tips for using alternate yarns. (Ed. note: I'm told by Patons that Katrina will be discontinued, but should still be available for purchase at press time.)
• Some stretchy substitutes to experiment with, of roughly similar weight, are:
• Classic Elite's Star, 2+ balls (cotton and lycra)
• Cascade Fixation, 2+ balls (cotton and elastic)
• Sock it to Me Collection's Esprit, 2+ balls (seems similar to Cascade's Fixation; available at www.elann.com)
• Schoeller Stahl's Merino Stretch, 1 ball (44% Merino)
• Schachenmayr Only Stretch, 2 balls (40% superwash wool)
• Size US8-H / 5.0mm crochet hook
• 2 lengths of 1.5-inch-wide ribbon, each 1.5 yds long
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Small (Large)

5" X 33", unstretched (6.5" x 43", approximately)

The goal is to end up with a rectangle that measures 5" X 33" unstretched (for small size) because that's what I got out of 1 skein of Katrina. The width (# of stitches across) could be up to 5.5" and still fit average upper arms the same; or 6" to 6.5" for plus-sized upper arms. The length (total # of rows) could go as low as about 30" for comfortably short sleeves, up to maybe 60" for long sleeves, depending on how long your arms are.

Gauge is not a big deal. Here's the gauge I got: 4 pattern repeats, plus the stitches that begin and end each row = 5". Four rows = 3.5".

Just follow the pattern, because the shrug is like one long gauge swatch anyway. If you are experimenting with one of the cotton yarns listed above, you'll probably need to go down a hook size and and do 5 pattern repeats instead of 4.

Ch(s) – chain
Sc – single crochet
Sl st – slip stitch

Picot - ch 4 then sl st in the 4th ch from hook

Instant Perfect-fit Shrug

I’m so happy to be in Montana where little sheep are running free and being chased by wolves.  No, really! Except instead of wolves it is more like coyotes or mountain lions. The yarn I’ve used for this skirt is certified ‘predator friendly’ meaning that the farm is run with respect for all living things, not just the cute ones. You can read more about it at www.lambandwool.com. It’s certified organic too! I hope you’ll try ordering from them or poke around for a local homespun in your neck of the woods.

I’ve had a bit of culture (and temperature) shock since leaving Japan and I was bemoaning the nippy winds that prevent me from wearing my summer skirt collection during winter.  Cozy yarn to the rescue!  This overskirt is like putting on a sweater, just lower down.  Of a rather chunky weight, it is quick to work up on big hooks and just a little bit delicate with a Kid Silk Haze trim and a nice bell shape.  You can wear it over skirts or pants, depending on how weird you want to look.  Either way, you’ll be warm.  Plus the rhythm of crochet might help you realize where you are and that it is okay (at least it does for me).

• Thirteen Mile Yarn (A) 2 skeins at ~110yds/skein. The color is a natural chocolate brown that comes straight off the sheep. This is a ‘chunky’ weight yarn usually used with size 11 knitting needles.
• 1 ball of Rowan’s Kid Silk Haze (B) in Villian (25g per 229yds). You could substitute another lightweight yarn easily, in either a tonal or contrast color. The gauge isn’t crucial for the trim.  
• Hook sizes F/5 (4mm), and L/11 (8mm), M (9mm), N (10mm), and P (11.5mm)
• ¾”- to 2”-wide ribbon or other belting material, long enough to go around your low waist and tie in a friendly bow. The picture shows a 3/4"-wide knit belt that is 56" long.

Pattern as written has a 36-inch dropped waist that stretches to 42 inches and can be tightened to 32 inches without looking odd.  You can add or remove a pattern repeat to change size 3 inches at a time (details included in pattern).

10 stitches = 4in, 10cm; 10 rows = 4in, 10cm in single crochet with yarn A and 8mm hook.

• The turning chain does not count as a stitch unless indicated.
• Be sure to read the pattern all the way through before beginning.

Waistband

With 8mm hook and thick yarn (A), chain 7.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd chain and in each chain across.  Ch 1and turn.

Inspired by the handcrafted hippy look of the Woodstock generation, this modern take on the gypsy vest is a must-have accessory. The vest is wearable no matter what your style, dress it down with jeans and a tank top, dress it up with slacks and a tunic. This piece will see you from the dog days of summer through the cool crisp days of fall and even on to chilly winter nights.

• Rayon Boucle by Fiesta (240 yds per 4 oz.) color #2131 Taos, 4-5 hanks
• US J (6mm) hook

X-Small (Small, Medium, Large, X-Large)
Bust: 35” (38” 40”, 43”, 46”)

5 chain arches and 10 rows over 4 inches (10cm)

US Pattern conventions used
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Sk – skip
Rep – repeat
Dec – decrease
Sl st – slip stitch
St – stitch
Tr – treble crochet

Back

(Working from bottom of vest to underarm)

Whether you’re lounging by the pool, skipping rocks on the river, walking by the ocean, or relaxing on the lake, you’ll find that this swimsuit cover-up fits perfectly into the scene. Make one to match each of your swimsuits, and more to match your moods. One simply won’t be enough!

• Hook, size H/8 (5.00mm) OR size needed to obtain gauge
• Worsted weight cotton (I used about 2.5 balls of Lily Sugar ‘n’ Cream to make a size 32” with 23 pattern rows.)
• Two buttons, about 3/4” diameter
• 1 needle that will fit through the holes in your buttons

4 sc per inch

When choosing a size, measure where you’d like the top of the cover-up to sit.

Sizes: 32” (34”, 36”, 38”, 40”, 42”)

US pattern conventions used
ch(s) = chain(s)
sc(s) = single crochet(s)
dc(s) = double crochet(s)
sk = skip
bet = between

Begin

Foundation: Chain 135 (144, 153, 162, 171, 180).

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 4. Turn.

A couple of years ago, I made this beautiful “one piece” knit baby sweater using a pattern from some magazine from the 70’s. It started from the back and continued in one piece over the shoulders, picking up one side to finish. It was easy enough but it took me 6 weeks to complete, because I just wasn’t that good at knitting. I thought how nice it would be to have a similar pattern in crochet. So, I adapted it, and voila, here it is. The nicest thing about it is that, with the chunky yarn, it only takes about 3 hours to make. There are two options for sweater bands below.

• 1 skein, Lionbrand Homespun Yarn (Bulky/6 oz/185 yards). Note: for 12 months you will need a little more than one skein.
• 1-2 ozs worsted weight yarn in contrast color for edging and buttons.
• Size K (6.5mm) hook for sweater
• 2 buttons
• Size H (5.0mm) hook for optional crocheted buttons
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends

6 mos (12 mos)
Length 10” (11”)
Chest 20” (23”)
Sleeve 6.5” (7.5”)

10 hdc and 8 rows = 4”/10cm

Samples used:
Blue: LB Homespun Montana Sky with TLC Lustre Lt Blue
Pink: LB Homespun Boston Rose with TLC Lustre Black
Coral: LB Homespun Coral Gables with Bernat Satin Pink
Green: LB Homespun Florida Keys Green with GGH Samoa Fuchsia

US Pattern Notations Used
Ch = chain
St = stitch
Sc = single crochet
Hdc = half double crochet
Sl st = slip stitch
Sc2tog = single crochet two together

Sweater is made in one piece starting at the bottom of the back side. The turning chain counts as the first hdc of a row, and the next hdc is made into the next stitch.

Begin
Ch 26 (29)

Row 1: Hdc into 3 rd Ch. Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. – 25 (28) Hdc

Rows 2-9: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows before moving on to next row.

Row 10: Hdc across. Fasten off.

Row 11: Add sleeves: Ch 15(17). With right side facing, Hdc into 1 st st, where you fastened off (leaving chain hanging off the hook, wrap the yarn over the hook, insert into first st and complete Hdc). Hdc across. Ch 16(18), turn.

Row 12: Hdc into 3 rd ch and Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. – 55(62) Hdc.

Rows 13-19: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows before moving on to next row.

Row 20: Hdc for 22(24) sts. Sl st in next 11(14) sts. Hdc in last 22(24) sts. Ch 2, turn.

Rows 21-22: Hdc across 22(24) sts. Ch 2, turn.

Row 23: Hdc across. Ch 12(14), turn.

Row 24: Hdc into 3 rd ch. Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. – 33(37) Hdc.

Rows 25-27: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows before moving on to next row.

Row 28: Hdc into first 18(20) sts. Ch 2, turn. – 18 (20)Hdc

Rows 29-38: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows hdc before fastening off.

Fasten off.

Pick up for the left sleeve.

Row 1: With front of sweater facing you, begin at the outside edge. Insert hook into first st and Ch 2. Hdc in next 21(23) sts. – 22(24) Hdc.

Row 2: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn.

Row 3: Hdc across. Ch 6(8) and turn.

Row 4: Hdc into 3 rd ch and Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. – 27 (31)Hdc.

Rows 5-7: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows before moving on to next row.

Row 8: Hdc in first 12(14) sts. Ch 2, turn. – 12(14) Hdc

Rows 9-18: Hdc across. Ch 2, turn. For 12 mos, do two more rows hdc before fastening off.

Fasten off.

To finish.

Option 1, as shown in Florida Keys Green with fuchsia band (shown left):

With contrast color and with the right side facing you, loosely sc along left placket. Place 3 sc in corner at the beginning of the neckline. Sc around neckline. Place 3 sc in top corner of right placket and sc down the right side. Ch 1, turn. Sc back around, placing 3 sc in the right corner, until you reach the top of the left placket. Place 3 sc in left corner and sc in next st. To make long buttonhole, ch 8 and join with sc to same st. Sc in next 3 sts, ch 8 and join with sc to same st. Sc to end. Fasten off. Add two rows of loose sc in contrast color to short end of both sleeves. Fold sweater along shoulder with right sides facing each other. Connect seams with either whipstitch or slip stitch, along both sides of body and under sleeves. Turn right side out. Place buttons, using buttonholes as a guide, and sew to right side.

Option 2, as shown in Coral Gables with pink band (shown right):

With contrast color and with the right side facing you, loosely sc along left placket. Place 3 sc in corner at the beginning of the neckline. Sc around neckline. Place 3 sc in top corner of right placket and sc down the right side. Ch 1, turn. Sc back around, placing 3 sc in the right corner, until you reach the top of the left placket. Place 3 sc in left corner and sc in next st. To make buttonhole, ch 3, skip two sts and sc in next. Sc in next, ch3, skip two sts, and sc in next. Sc to end. Ch 1 and sc around bottom edge of sweater for two rows. Fasten off. Add two rows of sc in contrast color to short end of both sleeves. Fold sweater along shoulder with right sides facing each other. Connect seams with either whipstitch or slip stitch, along both sides of body and under sleeves. Turn right side out. Place buttons, using buttonholes as a guide, and sew to right side.

To make optional crocheted buttons. With contrast color and smaller hook, chain 4 and join to first ch. Six sc in center and join to first sc. Ch 1, *sc in next two sts, 2 sc in next* repeat to end of round and join. Ch 1, sc2tog around and join. Leaving a long tail for sewing button on, fasten off.

A super-easy skirt pattern (all single crochet!) with explanations to help you tailor it perfectly to your measurements.

Remember when you first started to crochet -- your grand plans for designing the wardrobe of your dreams, your visions of clothing perfectly tailored to your body, created from fibers and colors you adore... do you remember?

Maybe you tried your hand at a few patterns and wondered why your results were always box-like, formless swaths of chunky yarn that bulk at the seams and look completely homemade (in the worst connotation of that word... y'know, like Eddie Murphy's houseburgers...).

Crochet Couture techniques are going to change all of that for you. Don't be afraid -- it's easier than the highfalutin name might imply. Crochet Couture simply means using the same techniques employed in constructing sewn garments (darts, insets, gussets, etc.) for the purpose of creating crocheted clothing that curves with the body and is tailored perfectly. The best part is that these techniques are generally easier to implement in crochet than with needle and thread.

The easiest and most practical of these to learn is crocheted darts. In sewn garments, a dart is placed within a piece of fabric to help it become more 3-dimmensional (as in the bust line), or to tuck away excess fabric in place of using a seam (as in flat front pants). In crochet, it is much, much easier to achieve the same shaping merely by using internal increases and decreases. With the following pattern, you will create a skirt that fits you to a T, using all sc -- what could be cooler than that? Hmmmm?

To start, you need a measuring tape, a full-length mirror, a pen and a piece of paper. You need 3 measurements (use mirror to make certain tape placement is accurate, level and doesn't pinch or pull the skin).

Your waist -- take this measurement at your belly button. Cut 2 pieces of 1/4" elastic to this measurement. Sew each strip into a ring, making certain not to twist elastic and overlapping ends no more than 3/4".

Your hips -- this measurement is 7"-9" below your natural waist and should be taken at the fullest part of your tushie.

Length -- while facing the mirror and with your feet about 6" apart, decide how long you would like your skirt to fall and make a small mark on your leg. Hold the top of the measuring tape to your belly button and measure straight down to the level of the mark. Make certain to write down this length measurement.

Take a moment to look at how your body changes from one measurement to the next. The increase from your thighs to your hips takes place on your sides and in the back -- so that's where extra fabric needs to be included in order to fit around your curves. If you crocheted a simple tube with evenly placed increases it would pull funny around your tush, sit awkwardly on your hips and stretch in unflattering ways when you move. But if you carefully place the increases and decreases to match your shape you create a seamless, tailored skirt with a custom "bottom pocket" and a waistband that lays flat.

The techniques in this pattern can be used with other yarn weights/hook size combinations. Through experimentation, however, I've found you get the best precision for the least amount of stitches with light worsted weight yarns and a 5.00mm hook. (Following this pattern is a link to instructions for this same skirt using sport weight yarn and a 4.00mm hook. If you want to use a more bulky yarn, I'd recommend a fuzzy/furry one or else the little gaps inside the stitches might be more revealing than you anticipated.)

• A short list of recommended yarns:
  Patons - Katrina, Classic Merino Wool, Decor, Canadiana
  Lion Brand - Imagine, Cotton-Ease, Monet
  Bernat - Harmony, Denimstyle, Berella
• 1/4" elastic (approx. 2 yds)
• Sewing thread
• A needle
• 5.0mm (size H) hook

Custom

Gauge Swatch (don't skip this step!):

Using a 5.00mm hook, db-ch 12

Row 1 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 12 chain, turn.

Row 2 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 12 stitches, turn.

Rows 3 to 10 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 12 stitches, turn.

Measure in the center of the swatch. Adjust hook/tension to achieve this gauge:

10 sts = 3"

8 rows = 2"

Using this gauge and your measurements, you can determine how many stitches you need for your starting chain. Crochet has some stretch, so to create a fitted skirt that hugs your heinie without any ease (ease is the technical term for the space in between the clothing and the body), you should go about 10% smaller than the gauge.

Confused? Don't stress. Contrary to what Barbie might think, math is easy. The first part of this pattern walks you through the steps and tells you how you can adjust the numbers to fit you perfectly. Following the explanation is a pattern for this skirt in 4 general sizes (2/4, 6/8, 10/12, 14/16). To help you along, the written instructions are color-coded to the rows in the pattern that they describe. Try it the hard way first and only peek at the answer if you get stumped.

Our gauge says 10 stitches for every 3 inches. That means there are 3.33 stitches for each inch. If we shave off 10%, we get 3 stitches per inch. So, the number of stitches for the widest part of your skirt should be -- your hip measurement x 3... well, almost. It makes all the other parts of the skirt easier to work out if you use a number evenly divisible by 4. Here's an example:

Let's say your hips measure 39". That would mean you need 39 x 3, or 117 stitches. However, 117 is not evenly divisible by 4, so you should round to the nearest number that is -- and in this case that is 116 stitches. Your starting chain should be 8 stitches fewer than this number. Again, if you don't want to bother with the math, a pattern follows, but it won't fit you as perfectly if you do it that way.

See tutorials for db-ch, sc-reduce, and the bump stitch.

This is an elegant (and warm) version of one of the latest trends. Wear it low on your shoulders with something strappy, or drawn slightly higher and paired with a sleek turtleneck. If you’re daring, try it as a drawstring miniskirt matched with bold tights and boots.

• 2 skeins (140g each) of Bernat Soft Bouclé Yarn (I used the “Tropical Spray” colour)
• G/6 hook (4.25mm)
• 3 yards of a satin ribbon in a coordinating colour (1/2 inch wide)

Pattern is for size M (S, L)

12dc and 8 rows = 4” x 4” (10cm x 10cm)

US pattern notations used
st = stitch
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
dc = double crochet
fpdc = front post treble crochet
bpdc = back post treble crochet

In this pattern, the cross stitch (which appears as a row of Xs) is made using this technique: fptc around second st from hook, fptc in the skipped st.

Ch 3 at the beginning of a round will count as the first dc.

Begin

Starting: Ch 142 (122, 162). Sl st to join.

Row 1: Ch 3. 1dc in each st around. Sl st to join.

Do you drool over the awesome sweater patterns for knitting? I do! So instead, of just sitting around getting frustrated that I couldn’t find patterns for crochet, I decided to come up with one of my own. My favorite sweaters are the ballet wraps, for the simple reason that no matter how much you eat you always look good in them. This sweater can be dressed up with ribbon ties or button closures, the choice is yours. I challenge all of you to come up with your favorite crochet fashions, so that we, too, can have mouth-watering patterns.

• 8(9,10,12,14) balls of Patons Kroy Socks, Norfolk Blue #54110
• 1-inch wide ribbon, 3 yarns or 3 buttons of your choice
• 3.25mm (US D) hook
• Yarn needle

XS (S, M, L, XL)
Actual bust measurements: 32.5 (35, 37.5, 40, 42.5)"
To fit bust measurments: 34 (36, 38, 40, 42)"

One full block, see diagram (diagram.pdf) or pattern stitch = 1.25” x 1.25”

• This pattern was initially designed in diagram form, so please consult diagrams in case of a written error. There is a PDF of each diagram for sizes exTRa small, small, medium, large, and exTRa large.
• Before jumping into crocheting, I really urge you to create a quick mock-up of the size you want. Ballet sweaters are known for fitting differently than normal sweaters. Please see the feature from last issue on how to create a quick mock-up.
• Kroy sock yarn is very cool yarn. You can wash it in the washing machine and it doesn’t shrink! I recommend washing and air-drying each piece before you sew them together. It really makes the piece a lot softer.
• The turning chains in this pattern have an additional chain to help loosen up the shells. If you find your shells are too loose you can simply decrease the turning chains by 1.

Pattern Stitch:

See stitch diagram (PDF).

CH 12.

Row 1: SC in second CH from hook, CH 1, skip 4 CH, 1 TR (CH 2, 1 TR) 4 times in next CH, CH 1, skip 4 CH, SC in next CH. CH 6 (counts as a TReble and chain 1), turn.

Row 2: DC in first CH-2 space, CH 3, SC in third TR, CH 3, skip next TR, DC in last CH-2 space, CH 1, TR into beginning SC. CH 7 (counts as a TReble and chain 2), turn.

Row 3: (TR, 2 CH, TR) into CH-1 space, CH 1, skip CH-3, SC into SC, skip CH-3, CH 1, 1 TR (2 CH, 1 TR) twice into CH-6 space. CH 1, turn.

Row 4: SC into TR, CH 3, DC into second CH-2 space, CH 2, DC into next CH-2 space, CH 3, SC into 3rd CH from the top of the t-CH. Finish off.

Back

See Back Diagrams: x-small (small,

The author has licensed this page under a Creative Commons License. Some rights reserved.