Ok, so here's the deal, this pattern is extremely easy. There's no rocket science to it. Why did I decide to post it ? Well, many times I've tried to read instructions from other patterns and for some reason I sometimes can't get it right and I know there are others out there that feel the same way. Well, this one pattern is for anybody that wants to do an easy scarf with no science behind it. That's why this scarf is called the Mindless Scarf.

1. I used a hook size J/10-6.00mm of the Boye brand
2. Yarn color is Denim Mist medium size 4 from Vanna's Choice collection and it's 100% Acrylic.
3. A measuring tape would be good to measure how long the scarf would be on a child by putting the measuring tape around the neck and letting it drop. It wouldn't matter on an adult.

***Here's another tip, the color will never matter ! Just make sure that if you are doing this for a friend as a gift, ask them what is their favorite color and just surprise them !***

The finished size of this scarf with this pattern was 49" long and 4" wide by the time I was done. Remember, a project can lose length as you crochet.

Regarding the gauge, I noticed that for this project 10 DC = 4"(10cm).

Ch = chain
YO = yarn over
DC = double crochet
TN = tapestry needle

Start by chaining as long as you need to. Some patterns will tell you to chain an X amount of chains, but have in mind that the length of the scarf is determined by the length of the person's torso. A scarf that is too short won't look proper on a person.

Once you have reached the desired lenght in the starting chain, do a DC on the 4th ch loop from the hook. After the DC is done, skip one ch and do a DC on the next ch. Follow this pattern till you reach the end. It should look like a ladder.

***If you reach the end and there is an odd chain left, do a DC on it***

Then ch 4, turn your project, and do a DC around the Ch, not on the loop of the Ch but around the Ch, so in other words you are YO, going under the Ch, YO again and complete the steps of finishing the DC.

A quick, easy project made from super bulky yarn. Great for spring or fall weather.

-1 skein super bulky weight yarn (weight category 6)
I used Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick (75% acrylic/25% wool) in Lemongrass.
-10 mm (US N/P-15) crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge
-Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Fits an average adult woman's neck.

Approx. 3 stitches and 2.5 rows = 5 cm (2") in dc

Exact gauge is not critical, but it needs to fit over your head :)

Stitches used:
ch: chain
sl st: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
dc: double crochet

tch: turning chain

Pattern is worked in rounds that are joined, but not turned.

Foundation row: Ch 40. Join to first ch with sl st, making sure not to twist work.
Row 1: Ch 1 (does not count as st). Sc in each sc. Sl st in first sc to join (40 sc).
Row 2: Repeat Row 1.
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Dc in next 5 sc. [Ch 2 loosely. Skip next 2 sc. Dc in next 6 sc] 4 times. Ch 2 loosely, skip next 2 sc. Sl st in 3rd ch of tch to join. (40 sts: 30 dc, 5 ch-2 spaces)
Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Dc in next 3 dc. [Ch 2 loosely. Skip next 2 dc. Dc in next 2 ch, dc in next 4 dc] 4 times. Ch 2 loosely, skip next 2 dc. Dc in next 2 ch. Sl st in 3rd ch of tch to join. (40 sts: 30 dc, 5 ch-2 spaces)

Great for showing off any homespun yarn with great texture and colors. A quick project that can be completed in one to two hours. This scarf is easy to adjust to your tastes, if you like long scarves chain more at the beginning. You can probably get 2 skinny scarves out of one skein, so make one for you and one for a friend.

1 skein of Lion Brand Homespun yarn - Bulky weight 6 oz 185 yds
N (13mm) Hook

as long as you want!

Bulky yarn with N (13mm) hook

Super
Simple
Skinny

Homespun is soft but kinda hard to work with all the nubs and bumps and all so not for a beginner.

Body of scarf
Ch 101

Row 1 Sc in 2nd chain from the hook. Sc across. (100 sts)

Row 2 Ch 3 counts as 1st dc. Dc across

Row 3 Ch 2 counts as 1st hdc. Hdc across

Row 4 Ch 3 counts as 1st dc. Dc across

Row 5 ch 1 sc across

Weave in all ends and enjoy!

LTC = Learn To Crochet.
This scarf is great for teaching the basics of crochet. It’s simple enough that you can make it as long as you want by making your beginning chain longer (as long as it’s divisible by 3) You can also make it as wide as you like by repeating the rows until it’s what you like. Then you add the edging and Viola you’re done!
You can use any yarn that catches your eye too this is a great project!

1 skein of worsted weight yarn, 200 - 366 yards (I use caron simply soft)
H (5 mm) hook
yarn needle

this scarf can be as long as you'd like it to be.

this pattern is for learning how to crochet and the gauge isn't important.

sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet

Ch 3 counts as 1st dc.
Ch 2 counts as 1st hdc.

*For an added feminine touch you could use a length of ribbon and thread it through the edging and tie the ends in a sharp bow.

Body of scarf Ch 151
Row 1 Sc in 2nd chain from the hook. Sc across. (150 sts)
Row 2 Ch 3 counts as 1st dc. Dc across
Row 3 Ch 2 counts as 1st hdc. Hdc across
Row 4 Ch 3 counts as 1st dc. Dc across
Row 5 ch 1 sc across.

Edging, you will now be working all the way around the scarf.
Turn, Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc) dc in next stitch. Ch 1. skip next stitch. *1 dc in
the next 2 stitches. Ch 1 skip next stitch. Repeat from * around. The corners
are made by ch 3 instead of ch 1. End with a ch 3 and join in the top of the
beginning ch 3.
Weave in all ends and enjoy!

The scarf is called "haptical" because of the haptical aspects of the texture ; the rows of crochet feel a little hard, while the long strands of yarn are soft to the touch.
The idea to this scarf is based on the knitted Clapotis from knitty.com. This scarf looks similar, but of course, transferring knitted looks into crochet makes the actual pattern something totally different. Plus, this scarf is rectangular.

Many thanks to Otterwise, JoAnn and especially Sanhita for proofreading!

Material - ca. 300g of sock yarn (420m/ 100g), 3mm crochet hook (if you are living in the US: use size C or D, as required, depending upon how loose or tight you crochet and the thickness of the yarn you are going to use!!)

Mine is 40cm x 120cm, done with 200g of sock yarn.
It can be made like a shawlette by making it wider and longer.

Not important, you see what you get while you are working on it.
One eesc row should be about as long as the esc row plus sc rows between.

Special stitches:

Elongated sc (esc) - Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over, draw loop through, yarn over, draw hook through one loop, yarn over, draw hook through both loops. It is like making an sc with a chain in the middle of the stitch.

Extra elongated sc (eesc) –Similar to making an esc, but draw the fist loop long, so you have a loop of about 3-4cm length (that is about as much as four rows of esc).

Increase eesc - [(eesc1, ch1) x3, eesc1] into the same stitch

Increase eesc at the beginning of a row - Replace the first eesc by pulling the loop of the turning chain to the size wanted.

Decrease eesc - (draw loop, yarn over, skip a st) x3, draw loop, pull yarn through all four loops

Decrease eesc at the beginning of a row - Instead of drawing the first loop, pull the loop of the turning ch to the size wanted.

Ch 2
Row 1 - work 2 esc into second ch from hook, ch1,
Row 2 - turn, work 2 esc in each stitch, ch1,
Row 3 - turn, work 2 esc in first stitch, 1 esc into each st till the last st, 2 esc into the last st. ch 1 (6 sts)
Row 4 – turn and repeat Row 3 (8 sts),
Row 5 – turn, increase eesc, ch1, (eesc1, ch1) till the last st, increase eesc into the last stitch, ch 1. Note: This row will be rather long and floppy; you decrease the extra fixing chains in the next row.
Row 6 – turn, work (one sc into each eesc and one sc into each chain space) in the increase eesc section of the previous row (You’ll have 7 sc here).
work 1 sc into 1 ch and 1 eesc together (in the eesc 1, ch 1 section of previous row) ,

This scarf is so much fun to make! And the colors will keep you going and going....

1 skein Socks That Rock, medium weight sock yarn, approx. 380 yards - available at: http://www.bluemoonfiberarts.com
(my color is Fire On The Mountain - and I still had about a quarter of the skein left)
Size "H" Crochet hook

My scarf measured 6" wide x 48" long after blocking.

Not essential to this project! Yay!

This pattern is very easy, but the one thing I had trouble with was keeping my lace loops a consistent size. Pull up the loop to about 1" in height (or desired height) and hold it with your finger while making the next stitch. It will hold the loop in place and keep your loop sizes more even.

Lace Pattern (multiple of 5 sts + 1)
Row 1 (right side) Dc in 4th chain from hook, *sc in next ch, draw up loop on hook to 1", sk next 3 chs, work (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch, rep from * to last 2 chs, sk next ch, sc in last ch, ch 3 (counts as first dc of next row throughout), turn.

Row 2: Dc in next dc, *sc in next ch 1 sp, draw up loop on hook to 1", (dc, ch 1, dc) in next sc, rep from * to last 2 sts, sk next dc, sc in top of turning chain, ch 3, turn.

Rep Row 2 for pattern.

Scarf
Ch 26 (more or less depending on desired width. The loops will stretch after blocking to make the scarf a bit wider when finished.)

Work Lace Pattern until scarf is desired length. Fasten off.

Wet block to allow the lace loops to lay flat and stretch out. Blocking was a bit of a challenge - I only had seamstress pins to pin the scarf down with. If you have lace blocking wires those would work awesome for this and would allow for a more consistent width.

Variations:
Try chaining 95 (+1) and work the scarf length-wise. The lace loops will hang vertically for a different look.

This scarf would look just as lovely in a solid yarn!

Also try working this scarf in a lightweight cotton yarn for a light, spring scarf!

More Pics:

Inspired by "Argosy" by Vyvyan Neel from the Winter 2006 issue of knitty.com. If you are not familiar with Argosy, see it here:
http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEwinter06/PATTargosy.html

I have to admit that I am a knitter disguised as a crocheter! I started crocheting young, and taught myself to knit about 8 years ago. I have been happily obsessed with both crafts ever since.

I loved this scarf and have knit several, but have given them away as gifts. But only recently started wondering how it would look in crochet. So here's my version! Hope you like it!

Do not be alarmed by the wordiness of the pattern. All the info is there just to keep you on track, but once you get the hang of it, you won't need the pattern anymore.

Any yarn you like and any hook you like! (I used a worsted weight, 100% Alpaca that I hand-dyed in Brown, Blue and Cream. I only had 2 skeins, so I used up both skeins. I would have made it longer if I had dyed up an extra skein! And I'm already contemplating what it would look like in Noro Sock Yarn!) - See 3rd pic for WIP with Noro Silk Garden Sock Yarn and a size "H" hook
I used a crochet hook size "H"
and I used approx. 220 yards

Mine is approx. 43" long x 8 ½" wide (after blocking)

Gauge is not essential for this project - a thinner yarn will yield a narrower scarf, a thicker yarn will yield a wider scarf, depending on hook size used.

Ch 14

Row 1: dc in 8th chain from hook (counts as dc, ch 2, sk 2 ch), dc in next 3 chains, ch 2, skip 2 chs, dc in last ch.

Row 2: Chain 5 (counts as dc + 2 ch now and throughout), turn. Dc in next 4, ch 2, dc in 3rd chain of turning chain 5.

Row 3: Rep Row 2. Once dc in 3rd chain is complete, chain 13, turn.

Row 4: dc in 8th chain from hook, dc in next 3 chains, ch 2, skip 2 ch, dc in next dc, ch 2, skip 2 ch, dc in next 4 dc, ch 2, skip 2 ch, dc in 3rd chain of turning chain 5. Chain 13, turn.

Row 5: dc in 8th ch from hook, dc in next 3 ch, *ch 2, skip 2 ch, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc, rep from * across, end ch 2, skip 2 ch, dc in 3rd chain of turning chain 5.

Row 6: Chain 5, turn. *ch 2, skip 2 ch, dc in next dc, ch 2 dc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc, rep. from * across, end ch 2, skip 2 ch, dc in 3rd chain of turning chain 5.

Row 7: Repeat Row 6 - at end of Row 7, when last dc is complete, chain 13, turn.

Row 8: Repeat Row 5 - at end of Row 8, when last dc is complete, chain 13, turn.

Row 9: Rep Row 5

Rows 10-11: Rep Row 6 - at end of Row 11, when last dc is complete, chain 13, turn.

Row 12: dc in 8th ch from hook, dc in next 3 ch, *ch 2, skip 2 ch, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc in next dc, dc in next 3 dc, rep from * 4 more times, across, end ch 2, skip 2 ch, dc in next dc, leaving next chain 2 space, next 4 dc and last chain 2 space unworked.

Row 13-15: Rep Row 6 - at end of Row 15, when last dc is complete, chain 13, turn.

Row 16: Rep Row 12

Continue body of scarf by repeating Rows 13-16 until scarf is desired length, then work Rows 13-15, omitting the chain 13 at the end of Row 15.

Decrease: Ch 1, turn. **Work slip stitch, ch 1, slip stitch all in next chain 2 space, work slip stitch in each dc across, work slip stitch, ch 1, slip stitch in next chain 2 space, work slip stitch in next dc, chain 5** - *dc in next 4 dc, ch 2, skip 2 ch, dc in next dc, ch 2, skip 2 ch, rep from * 2 more times, end dc in next dc, leaving next chain 2 space, next 4 dc and last chain 2 space unworked.

Repeat Row 6 three more times.

Repeat Decrease Row, working from ** to ** once, then from * once, end dc in next dc, leaving next chain 2 space, next 4 dc and last chain 2 space unworked.

Repeat Row 6 two more times. Fasten off.

Finishing
Mine required blocking because the scarf wanted to curl. I spritzed mine with a water bottle lightly to dampen, then laid it flat and pinned each corner so that each square on the side edge of the scarf would lay flat when dry. See my blocking pic below. Enjoy!! :)

I wanted something frilly and girly - and definitely Spring-like! I stitched this up rather quickly - in a couple of hours - and used less than 230 yards! If you have more yardage to give, you can make all the ruffles long and even more frilly than mine! :)

1 skein Jaegar Agua, shade 309 (Shell) - Color A
1 skein Jaegar Agua, shade 312, Mystery Color I call Plum - Color B
OR any DK weight, mercerized cotton
Crochet hook size "I"
2 buttons (or a Dritz Fabric Button Kit + coordinating fabric)
Sewing needle and thread
Yarn needle for weaving in ends

7 ½" tall at tallest point (counting ruffles) x 18" long (will stretch slightly - but is designed to fit snugly.)

4 dc = 1"

With Color A, ch 62
Row 1: sc in second chain from hook and in next 3 chains, dc across to last 4 chains, sc in last 4. Chain 1, turn.

Repeat this row 2 more times.

Row 4: sc in first sc, chain 2, skip 2 sc, sc in next sc, (buttonhole made), dc across to last 4 sc, sc in last 4. Chain 1, turn.

Row 5: sc in next 4 sc, dc across to 1st sc, sc in this sc, 1 sc in next 2 chains, sc in last sc. Chain 1, turn.

Rows 6 & 7: Repeat Row 1

Row 8: Repeat Row 4

Rows 9 & 10: Repeat Row 1

Fasten off.

Now turn the piece upside down so that you are ready to work into the dc's from Row 1. With Color B, attach yarn around post of 1st dc.

First Ruffle (or bottom edge ruffle)
Row 1: * chain 4, skip next 3 dc, sc around post of next dc - repeat from * across. Chain 3, turn. (13 chain 4 spaces)

Row 2: 1 dc in chain 4 space, ch 3, 2 dc in same chain 4 space, *2 dc, chain 3, 2 dc in next chain 3 space - repeat from * across. Chain 1, turn.

Row 3: work sc in second dc, work sc in chain 3 space, chain 3, work 7 dc into chain 3 space, * 8 dc in next chain 3 space - repeat from * across. Fasten off.

Second Ruffle
Skip next row of dc and work second ruffle into next dc row - or 3rd dc row from the top. Skip first 2 dc's of this row, and attach yarn around post of 3rd dc.

Row 1: * chain 4, skip next 3 dc, sc around post of next dc - repeat from * across. Chain 3, turn. (12 chain 4 spaces)

Row 2: 1 dc in chain 4 space, ch 3, 2 dc in same chain 4 space, *2 dc, chain 3, 2 dc in next chain 3 space - repeat from * across. Chain 1, turn.

Row 3: work sc in second dc, work sc in chain 3 space, chain 3, work 5 dc into chain 3 space, * 6 dc in next chain 3 space - repeat from * across. Fasten off.

Third Ruffle
Skip next dc row and work third ruffle into next dc row - or 5th dc row from the top. Attach yarn around post of 1st dc of this row.

Row 1: * chain 4, skip next 3 dc, sc around post of next dc - repeat from * across. Chain 3, turn. (13 chain 4 spaces)

Row 2: 1 dc in chain 4 space, ch 3, 2 dc in same chain 4 space, *2 dc, chain 3, 2 dc in next chain 3 space - repeat from * across. Chain 1, turn.

Row 3: work sc in second dc, work sc in chain 3 space, chain 3, work 3 dc into chain 3 space, * 4 dc in next chain 3 space - repeat from * across. Fasten off.

Fourth Ruffle
Skip next dc row and work fourth ruffle into next dc row - or 7th row of dc from the top. Attach yarn around post of 3rd dc of this row.

Repeat instructions for Third Ruffle, keeping in mind you will have 12 chain 4 spaces instead of 13.

Finishing
Weave in ends. Fold the piece so that the buttonhole edge lines up with the opposite edge and using the buttonholes as a guide, place your buttons. (I didn't have any buttons in my stash that matched good enough - so I made mine using the Dritz Fabric Button Kit and some coordinating fabric I found in my stash.)

Steam or Wet Block your cowl, if desired.

I had 2 skeins of Patons SWS in my stash. What the heck can you do with 2 skeins? Well, a cool cowl! I only needed the second skein for the last round of the cowl. Your mileage with this yarn may vary, but I recommend purchasing 2 skeins just to be sure!

Experience
Probably at least an Intermediate Crocheter. Not a good beginner pattern since creating the hexagons are a bit of a challenge - but they are easy once you get the hang of it.

Materials
2 skeins Patons SWS (mine was done in Natural Garden)
Size "J" Hook

Finished Size
7 ½" tall x 20" circumference

Gauge
One Hexagon measures 1 ½" across and 1 ¾" in length

I included a picture of the chart for this one - just for a visual aid in case the instructions have you confused. Let me know if you need any help!

The stitch pattern is a multiple of 8 stitches - so you can add additional repeats of the pattern to enlarge the finished circumference.

Instructions
Ch 88, join with a slip stitch, taking care not to twist!

Round 1: * skip 3 chains, 3 dc, ch 5, sk 1 of the chains just made, sc in next 4 chains, 3 dc in same space, skip 3 chains, sc in next chain, repeat from * around.

Round 2: loosely work a slip stitch in next seven sts, * sc in next st (top of the chain 5), ch 3, pick up a loop in each of the next 14 sts, along the side of the chain 5 and in the dc's from the previous round, then up the side of the next chain 5, adjusting size of loops from small to large as you go, yo and pull through all 14 loops (Puff Stitch made), ch 3. Repeat from * around.

Round 3: dc in same space as puff st, *chain 5, work 4 sc along chain 5 just made, 3 dc in same space, sc in next sc, 3 dc in next puff st, repeat from * around, end round with dc in same space as beg chain 3, slip stitch to top of beg chain 3.

Round 4: loosely work slip stitches up the side of the next chain 5, * sc in next st (top of the chain 5), ch 3, pick up a loop in each of the next 14 sts, along the side of the chain 5 and in the dc's from the previous round, then up the side of the next chain 5, adjusting size of loops from small to large as you go, yo and pull through all 14 loops (Puff Stitch made), ch 3. Repeat from * around.

Round 5: 3 dc, *chain 5, work 4 sc along chain 5 just made, 3 dc in same space, sc in next sc, 3 dc in next puff st, repeat from * around, end round with slip stitch in last sc of previous round.

Round 6: Repeat Round 2

Round 7: Repeat Round 3

Fasten off. (Or repeat rounds 2 and 3 for a taller cowl.)

Finishing
I worked a round of sc around the beginning edge just for clean up. The little chain 5 "thingies" that are hanging make a nice pattern for the base of the cowl. That's how I wear mine! :)

Weave in ends.

I wet blocked mine by running it under luke warm tap water and rolling it in a towel to remove excess water. I also used the tip of my finger and enlarged the holes in the center of the hexagons to open it up a bit more.

Have you ever seen Knitty's famous Clapotis pattern? If not, you're missing out. It's a lovely little number that can either be worn as a scarf or a shawl. It's knit on the diagonal with variegated yarn, so that it stripes in the opposite direction as the texture. The Animator's Wife has been longing for such a scarf, but lacking the skill to knit, has come up with a crochet version.

Our crochet Clapochet is also worked on the diagonal, with chain spaces peppered throughout to create a texture similar to the original Clapotis. If variegated yarn is used, it will stripe with the texture instead of against it, but the final result is just as versatile as the original in that it may be scrunched up and worn as a scarf or spread out and worn as a shawl. We hope you enjoy it!

650 yd 4/worsted-weight yarn
Size J-10 (6.0 mm) crochet hook

18" wide x 72" long

Not needed.

http://crochetkitten.blogspot.com/2009/02/clapochet.html