I used the Spike Single Crochet stitch from the latest Interweave Crochet to create a hat with a cool spike feature, but still warm and cozy for the coming snow.

I used just under 1 skein of Manos del Uruguay Wool Classica, which is a 100 gr skein (or 138 yards). I think just about any wool yarn will do though.

I used a K hook, but again I think this is pretty flexible, as long as the first two chains fit your noggin you're set.

One size fits all (its a beanie!)

I didn't do a gauge swatch on this, sorry! I rarely ever gauge if its a hat, but if you need help with the sizing let me know and I'll lend a hand.

The only special stitch you'll really need to know about is the Spike Single Crochet which is as follows:

Insert hook in next stitch, 1 row down, yarn over, pull loop to height of working row, yarn over and draw through both loops on the hook.

This alternates with a regular single crochet through the pattern to create the spiked effect.

Also, here's a refresher on sc2tog: Single crochet together. Insert hook into st, wrap yarn once (two loops on hook), insert into next stitch, wrap yarn once (3 loops on hook) pull hook through all three loops.

If you have any issues at all, or want to leave me a nasty comment on my blog, its http://thecraftyhooker.blogspot.com

*Do not join! Just keep working in the round, marking the first stitch with a marker*

Rd 1: Chain 61 (or however many it takes to fit your head, but it must be an odd number to create the effect we want).

Rd 2: sc in each st (61)

Rd 3- sc in first st, spike stitch in sc one row below the next stitch (this is the spike single crochet), continue this until the end of the row.

Rd 4 - spike stitch in sc one row below first stitch, sc in next stitch - continue this until the end of the row

Rd 5-17 - repeat rds 3 and 4.

(add rows if needed for height after row 17, just continue using rds 3 and 4)

Begin Decrease!

Rd 18: sc 1, sc2tog, sc in each of the next 58 st (60)

Rd 19: sc 8, sc2tog (6 times) - 54

Rd 20: sc 7, sc2tog (6 times) - 48

Fall style hat made for newborn babies

4.00 mm crochet hook

1 skein orange red heart yarn

1 skein Garden Eurospun yarn

Newborn

will edit this

Ch - Chain

SC - Single Crochet

SS - Slip Stitch

Increase - two stiches in same space

Chain 4, Join
12 SC in loop 2
SC in each stitch around
1 SC in first stitch increase every second stitch
1SC in each stitch around
1SC in next 2 stitches with an increase on the third
1SC in next 3 stitches increase on the forth
1SC in next 4 stitches increase on the fifth
1 SC in each stitch around until you get the length you want

Making the stalk

Chain 3, Join 6 SC in loop Continue with SC to the length you want
*Chain 5 HDC in stitch (x3 times) chain 5 and slip stitch in same stitch*,
Slip stitch next stitch, slip stitch into second space and repeat *.
Repeat from * x4 more times

This is a fun pattern and a fun costume to wear at a party and now that October is nearly hear I thought I'd post the pattern.

I was searching Etsy one day and came across a custom crochet job in the Alchemy boards. This particular person wanted a hat made like the one pictured in DoodyBrain's Blog. I had never seen this hat before and I took on the challenge.

This is not my original idea although the pattern is mine. I got the idea for this hat from Scandinavian Grace http://scandinaviangrace.com.

I also submitted it to Instructables not too long after I made it and won 2nd place in the Lion Brand October Contest. I won a really cool book of Vintage patterns. :)

Skein of Acrylic or fiber of your choice [this one is done in Red Heart]
Hook - J (smaller hook for thinner yarn)
Tapestry needle for sewing

Original was done in Wool and I hook size M-L.
This one is done in Red Heart Acrylic J hook l-xl

Gauge in unknown. [update when I remake pattern]

Stitches Used: sc, dc, hdc, sl st
chain 2 does not count as stitch

This is worked in three parts: #1 hat and #2 Beard and then #3 Mustache

Hat:

Chain 3
1: 12 dc in second ch from hook, join with a sl st to first dc made, ch 2

2: 2dc in each st around, sl st to first dc made ch 2 (24dc)

3: 1dc in first st, 2 dc in next stitch repeat around, sl st to first dc made, ch2 (36dc)

4: 1dc in first 2 stitches, 2dc in next stitch, repeat around, sl st to first dc made, ch2 (48dc)

5: 1dc in first 3 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch, repeat around, sl st to first dc made, ch2 (60dc)

6: dc in each stitch around, sl st to first dc made, ch2

7 - 9: Repeat row 6

10: Hdc in each st around, join with a sl st to first hdc made, ch 3

ch 3 counts as first dc

11: Dc in next 39 stitches, ch 3, turn (40dc)

12 - 15: Dc in each st across, ch 3, turn (40dc)

This hat was inspired by a trip to the Big Red Trees along the Coast of California. It is a simple Tam pattern. Very adaptable to your own head and style.

This uses basic stitches like single crochet, half double crochet, and double crochet.

Crochet Hook US J/10/6.00MM
Tapestry needle for sewing ends
Lion Brand Wool 100% cocoa (To clean: hand wash, lay flat to dry) 1skein
Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice Olive Small amount for Edging

circumference is approx. 33inches which fits my Large head a little loose. If you have dreads or Long thick hair this is perfect.

Gauge: 5dc=4inches;circumference is approx. 33inches

Stitches Used:

Double Crochet
Decrease Double Crochet
Single Crochet
Slip Stitch
Ch2 does not count as first DC (it is used as a filler)
Do not join unless noted

Resources:

Double Crochet (DC) – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-gQMTXrIP40

Decrease Double Crochet (DC2tog) – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxwqTkbx4xI

Changing Colors – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y3DnuYR9dCg

Chain 3

Row1: 8DC in third chain from hook, ch2 (ch2 does NOT count as first dc)

Row2: 2dc in each stitch around (16dc) ch2

Row3: *1 Dc in first stitch, 2Dc in next stitch* Repeat this 7more times, ch2 (24DC)

Row4: *1 Dc in first 2 stitches, 2DC in next stitch * Repeat this 7 more times, ch2 (32DC)

Row5: * 1 DC in first 3 stitches, 2DC in next stitch * Repeat this 7 more times, ch2 (40DC)

Row6: * 1 DC in first 4 stitches, 2DC in next stitch * Repeat this 7 more times, ch2 (48DC)

Row7: * 1 DC in first 5 stitches, 2DC in next stitch * Repeat this 7 more times, ch2 (56DC)

Row8: 1 DC in each stitch around, (56DC)

Row9: Change to Olive – ch2, 1DC in each stitch around, (56DC)

Row10: Change to Cocoa – ch2, 1DC in each stitch around, (56DC)

I originally made this for my daughter, but had many people ask me about it and the pattern, so I wrote it down and first put it up on Ravely and desided it was time to shre it here :)

Tahki Cotton Classic in 2 colours (Colours A & B)
Sm- 2.50mm or as needed for gauge
Med- 3.25mm or as needed for gauge
Lg- 3.75mm hook or as needed for gauge

I don't have actual measurements, but the Small should fit a child and the medium should fit a small adult and the large shout fit an average size adult.

The medium size is shown in the photo.

Sm = 7dc per inch
Med = 6dc per inch
Lg = 5 dc per inch

If a larger size is still needed just adjust hook size up.

abbreviations:
ch = chain
slp st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
st(s) = stitch(s)
sk = skip

Instructions:

(NOTE: the beginning ch 3 of every round always counts as the first stitch,
Rnds 1-9, Do not turn at the end of the rnds)

Top of cap:
With A, Ch 4, join in 4th ch from the hook to form chain loop

Rnd 1- (right side) ch 3, dc 12 times into the chain loop, join with slp st into the 3rd ch of 1st st. (13 stitches),

Rnd 2- Change to B , ch 3, dc into same st, [2 dc into next st] around, join with slp st into the 3rd ch of 1st st. (26 stitches)

Rnd 3- Change to A , ch 3, 2 dc in next st, [dc into next st, 2 dc into next st] around, join with slp st into the 3rd ch of 1st st. (39 stitches)

Rnd 4- Change to B, ch 3, dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st,

Made with 100% cotton yarn in four muted colors, the Midsummer Twilight Hat is perfect for cooler summer evenings or crisp autumn afternoons.

Hook: Size H/8, 5.00mm
Yarn: Small amounts of Sugar 'n' Cream worsted weight cotton in blue, brown, and purple, and Bernat cotton in green.

Approximately 8" from center of crown to edge of scallop.
Approximately 22" brim circumference .

Five rounds of dc = approximately 2", 5cm.

Stitches: chain (ch), slip stitch (slst), no-turn-chain double crochet (ntcdc), double crochet (dc), treble crochet (tc)

For an explaination of the ntcdc, visit: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LxYpo-tyi8

The NTCDC counts as the first stitch of each row. If that stitch isn't working out for you, replace with "ch 3" throughout the pattern.

I carried the thread on the inside of the hat for the first eight rows to make color changing easier. Once the shell pattern begins, it's easier to tie off each time a new color begins a round. The pattern is written to tie in the new color along the same vertical seam.

Round 1: [Blue] Ch 1. Ntcdc in ch. 9 dc in chain, slst to top of ntcdc. [10 sts]

Round 2: [Blue] Ntcdc. Dc in same st as Ntcdc. 2 dc in each st around. [20 sts]

Round 3: [Brown] Ntcdc. 2 dc in next st. *Dc in next st, 2 dc in next st.* Repeat from * to * 8 more times. Slst to top of ntcdc. [30 sts]

Round 4: [Blue] Ntcdc. Dc in next st, 2 dc in next st. *Dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st. Repeat from * to * 8 more times. Slst to top of ntcdc. [40 sts]

Round 5: [Purple] Ntcdc. Dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st. *Dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st.* Repeat from * to * 8 more times. Slst to top of ntcdc. [50 sts]

Hello crocheters! This is my first pattern, adapted from another hat pattern that just wouldn't work with my yarn. It was made for a friend for the P-rade going on today. It's a parade for the alumni of Princeton University. His dad is from 1982, so he marches. I thought we could both share our spirit with matching hats. I made mine from another pattern. Feel free to adapt to any school or sports team.

* 1 ball burnt orange worsted weight (MC)
* 1 ball black worsted weight (CC)
* Size F hook
* yarn needle
OPTIONAL
* pompom maker

Fits an average size head. (sorry, don't know how to adapt to other head sizes! Try adding more rows) Hat will fit loosely on head - like a bucket hat.

Forgot to take gauge beforehand...judge by the dimensions of the "P"

If not using the "P" made here, try to make your own letter. I figured this one out by drawing it...mess around, tell me how it works out.

Also:

blo - crocheted in the back loop only

Hat

In MC
Round 1: Work 10 sc into magic loop, pull tail to tighten. (10 sts)
Round 2: Work 2 sc in each st around. (20 sts)
Rounds 3-4: Sc in each st around.
Round 5: Work 2 sc in each st around. (40 sts)
Rounds 6-10: Sc in each st around.
Round 11: Work 2 sc in each st around. (80 sts)
Rounds 12-17: Work 1 rnd even
Round 18: *Work 2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 3 sts, rep from * around. (100 sts)
Rounds 19 - 29: Sc in each st around.
Switch to CC
Rounds 30 - 35: *sc in blo, sc from * around
Round 36: Sc around
Slip stitch in first stitch. Fasten off.

The "P"

In CC, Chain 10

Row 1: Sc across, turn
Row 2: Sc across, turn
Row 3: 7 sc, turn
Row 4: 4 sc, turn

Continue row 4 until the shaft is 4.5 inches from the foundation chain. Fasten off.

In CC, Chain 10

Row 1: Sc across, turn
Row 2: Sc across with inc (2 sc in same st) in the last st, turn
Row 3: Inc, sc across, turn
Row 4: Sc across with inc in last st, turn
Row 5: 4 Sc, turn
Row 6: 4 Sc, turn
Row 7: 4 Sc, turn
Row 8: 4 Sc, turn
Row 9: 4 sc, chain 6, turn
Row 10: sc across, turn
Row 11: sc2tog, sc across, turn
Row 12: 6 sc, sc2tog, turn
Row 13: sc2tog, sc across.

Fasten off. With a yarn needle and CC yarn, sew the shaft to the round part. Sew to hat. Weave in ends.

Pompom

If you want to make a pompom (mine doesn't have one, but it would look good with one), use a pompom maker or your fingers to make a pompom while holding the MC and the CC together.

To make a pompom with your fingers, hold three fingers out and wind the yarn about 100 times around. Tie one piece of yarn around the middle. Secure well. Cut the loops and fluff. Trim ends to make them even.

Let me know if there are any mistakes. I'd love feedback!

I came across this post pattern in a Vogue knitting magazine and was intrigued by the colors used to make a straight skirt. Of course, I thought wow, that would make an easy color change hat. My children think it looks Rastafarian. It would make a great beret or bag also. I was thinking even felted it may be a really cool fabric.

1 skein each of four or more colors of washable wool

Size H crochet hook (or size to match gauge)

Colors of hat in the photo are

A – orange

B – gold

C – turquoise

D – purple

This hat is made from Lamb’s Pride Superwash

Size G (4.5 mm) crochet hook or size you usually use for making hats in the round. Hat will be looser with larger hook and tigher with smaller hook.

Measures 8.5" ((21.5 cm) from top to bottom. Approximately 23" or 58.5 cm around at widest point.

15 pattern stitches and 9.5 double crochet rows = 4"x4" or 10 cm x 10 cm. This is measured on the non-increase rows.

In the first few rows the treble becomes the increase stitch necessary to create a flat circle. Once you begin crocheting with no increase, the pattern requires a skipped dc stitch to accommodate the treble. Basically three stitches on three stitches. Feel free to experiment with the color changes, it turns out different every time.

Double Crochet = dc

Treble Crochet = trc

Pattern stitch = Two rows of double crochet, followed by a row of two double crochet stitches and one treble. The treble is worked in the first row of the pattern. The color change is two rows of one color and one row of another color

Row 1: (Color A) With open loop method, make 9 double crochet (dc) in the loop and pull snug.

Row 2: Two dc in each stitch, total of 18 stitches

Row 3: (Color B) Pattern Stitch - *dc in first two stitches, treble crochet (tc) around first dc in first row.* repeat pattern for a total of 27 stitches with 9 stitches into row 1.

Row 4: (Color C) *Double crochet one in first two stitches, inc in next stitch;* repeat between * for a total of 38 stitches.

Row 5: Double crochet in each stitch = 38 stitches.

Row 6: (Color B) Pattern stitch = 57 stitches.

Row 7: (Color D) Double crochet in first two stitches, inc. in next stitch; repeat between * for a total of 75 stitches.

Row 8: One double crochet in each stitch = 75 stitches.

Row 9: (Color B) *Double crochet in next two stitches; Treble around first dc two rows back. Skip one dc* repeat between *.

To End: Continue with two rows of dc in each dc and then a pattern row changing; colors as you desire,

When hat is long enough, end with a row of sc working in front loop, then back loop alternately until end, slipstitch, fasten off, hide ends… GO skiing.

Okay! Here goes the pattern for my slip stitch hat. I use slip stitch in the round, in the front loop only for the bulk of the hat. It is not as quick as some other stitches, but I love the fabric it produces - smooth, solid and lightweight. Another result of this stitch is that it curls up on itself, creating the rolled brim, therefore you need to create a bit more length to make up for the curl.

less than 220 yards, 201.2 meters, worsted weight yarn - I used Knitpicks bare peruvian highland wool that I dyed with plants

If you are adventurous, you can adapt this for a different sized yarn, my only guideline would be that you use a hook that is larger than what you would normally use for your yarn.

K hook - 6.5mm
H hook - 5mm

stitch marker, or piece of yarn of a contrasting color, or whatever you want to use to keep track of rounds

any size your heart desires!

not really an issue but mine worked up to be 20 sl st flo per 4" , 10cm, and 20 rounds per 4", 10 cm in the portion worked with the H hook.

I suggest loosening up your gauge when using slip stitch because the tight stitches are difficult to get the hook into. Also, might I suggest using a hook with a pointy head if you have one.

stitches:

slip stitch - sl st - Insert hook into indicated stitch. Yarn-over and draw up a loop through both the stitch and the
loop on your hook. Slip stitch is complete

magic ring - http://www.planetjune.com/blog/tutorials/magic-ring-right-handed/

slip stitch front loop only sl st flo - make a slip stitch through the front loop only of the next stitch

slip stitch increase - sl st inc - make a slip stitch in the back loop of the next stitch and then a slip stitch in the front loop of that same stitch

This pattern is done in continuous rounds with no joining. Use a stitch marker or a piece of yarn in a contrasting color to keep track of your rounds.

with worsted weight yarn and a K hook

Start with a magic ring
1 - make 5 sc in magic ring - 5sc
2 - make 1 sl st inc in each sc - 10 sl st
3 - make 1 sl st inc in each sl st - 20 sl st
4 - make 1 sl st flo in each sl st - 20 sl st
alternate rounds 3 and 4 until you have a disk that is pretty flat (it is okay if it is a little ruffly) and large enough to cover the diameter of your head. I did two more increase rounds ending up with 80 stitches around.

change to H hook and continue round 4 until hat is desired height.

I added five stripes of blue for interest. Two rounds blue, two rounds grey ... it seemed to make the slip stitching go faster :0)

I added a chain stitch flower at the top to make it more girly, otherwise this could be a good men's hat, too.

I suggest steam blocking your hat to make it look and feel it's best.

A Fabulously Decorative "Crown" for your next Gala or Holiday Party! This beautiful hat works up wonderfully in any of the regular and/or metallic crochet threads, however you must use at least four balls in order to get the 4 ply thickness that will enable you to shape it. You can also use any of the 4 ply wools, (I love Red Heart brand for its shapability). Is that a word--LOL! I put each ball in separate bags to resist tangling—however a spool holder will work much better:) As a Born-Again Believer, I give all the Glory to God for His creative abilities in me; therefore I take no credit for this is His original design. I trust that you will enjoy crocheting this unique pattern as much as I did! And just think--how exciting it will be at your next glamorous gala or holiday party to walk into the room--and turn heads! I see it already in these rich metallic’s: silver, red, bronze, and gold with pretty organza ribbon! Please E-mail me if you experience any problems. indianprincess_777@yahoo.com.

For this "Princess Crown" I used two balls of
regular mint green and two balls of gold matallic crochet thread.

You can use the colors of your choice.

Size J/10 6mm hook

Fits most size 22 inch heads snugly, however you may wish to stretch it a bit to fit more loosly by misting it with water--not too much--and gently hand shape. You may also use a larger sized needle for a 23 inch fit.

Gauge is not imperative to this pattern, however, careful shaping is the most valuable thing to consider. If you crochet tightly, you may consider using a larger hook.

Mist the design lightly with water and twist the larger shells in an oblique. Gently pull the shells just above them into a peak in order to give it an appealing visual effect. The very top of the crown is to lay flatly on the head, gently stretch it into shape to lay flat.

Ch 4, Sl St in 1st Sc to form ring, ch 1.
Row 1 – Sc in ring, ch5, (six times) Ch1,
sl st in first ch1 st, ch1= 6 ch5 loops.

Row 2 – In ch 5 loop, *(Sc, ch5, sc), ch1. *Repeat for each ch5 loop around.
**Remember to ch1 between each loop or work will be too tight**
sl st in first ch 1 st, ch 2= 6 ch5 loops.

 Row 3 – In loop, *(Sc, ch 5, sc, ch 5, sc), ch2 *Repeat for each ch5 loop around.
**Remember to ch2 between each loop or work will be too tight**
Sl st in ch 2 st, ch 2 = 12 ch5 loops.

Row 4 – In loop *(Sc, dc, dc, ch 1, dc, sc) ch2, *Repeat for each ch5 loop around.
**Remember to ch2 between each loop or work will be too tight**
Sl st into ch 2 st, ch2. 12 shells made.

Row 5 – In ch 1 sp, *(sc, ch 7, sc), ch 2. *Repeat for each ch 1 sp around.
**Remember to ch2 between each chain 1 space or work will be too tight**
Sl st in ch2 st, ch2 = 12 ch7 loops.

Row 6 – In ch 7 loop, *(sc, hdc, dc, dc, ch 1, dc, hdc, sc), ch 3. *Repeat for each ch 7 loop around.
**Remember to ch 3 between each loop or work will be too tight.**
Sl St in ch2 st, ch3. 12 shells made.

Row 7 – In ch 1 sp, *(sc, ch 7, sc), ch 3. *repeat for each ch 1 sp around.
**Remember to ch3 between each chain 1 space or work will be too tight**
Sl st in ch 3 st, ch 3. = 12 ch7 loops.

Row 8 - In ch 7 loop, *(sc, hdc, hdc, dc, dc, ch 1, dc, hdc, hdc, sc), ch 3. *Repeat for each ch 7 loop around.
**Remember to ch 3 between each loop or work will be too tight.**
Sl St in ch3 st, ch3. 12 shells made.

Row 9 – in ch1 sp *(sc, sc, sc, ch1, sc, sc), ch 3.
**Remember to ch3 between each chain 1 space or work will be too tight**
Sl st in ch 3 st, ch 3. = 12 sc shells made.

Row 10 – in ch1 sp *(sc, sc, sc, ch1, sc, sc), ch 3. **Remember to ch3 between each chain 1 space or work will be too tight**
Sl st in ch 3 st, ch 3. = 12 - 5sc shells made.

Row 11-14 – in ch1 sp *(sc, sc, ch1, sc), ch 3.
**Remember to ch3 between each chain 1 space or work will be too tight** Sl st in ch 3 st, ch 3. = 12 - 3sc shells made.

Weave in ends.