This pattern was born out a) an urge to make mittens and b) an even greater urge to use Deborah Norville Serenity Chunky-Weight yarn (SO SOFT). I'd tried to make mittens before, and the decreases at the top always kicked my butt. I was making my first ever sock when it hit me: why not use the toe/heel decrease instead of decreasing around?!

And thus, for your viewing pleasure, the Chunky Mittens were born. These make great liners, and would probably be rad if you made them a bit big then felted them! (I haven't tried this yet, but if you do and it works, tell me!)

(Note: I mentally referenced Julia's Basic Fingerless Mittens pattern for the hands of my mittens, and the finger decreases were, in fact, inspired by the In Your Shoes Ankle Socks. Yes, it's a convoluted train of thought, but it worked, right? Also, this pattern hasn't been tested, and it's my first posted pattern. If you note a mistake, or if something doesn't make sense, feel free to point it out...NICELY.)

-1 Skein Deborah Norville Chunky Weight Yarn (100 % acrylic, 100 grams, 109 yds (100 m) per skein) (I used Red Orche, but any color will do)
-Size 6.50 (K-10) hook
-Measuring tape
-Yarn needle
-Safety pins or stitch markers

Custom!

Not important for this pattern, since you'll be using your own hand measurements.

-All sc are worked in the front loop only unless otherwise noted.
-All rounds are worked in a spiral.

First, you need to make some measurements so the mittens fit.

Measurement V: The circumference of your wrist at its thinnest.
Measurement W: The height of your hand from where the wrist joins the hand to where the bottom of your thumb joins your hand (about 1/3 of your hand)
Measurement X: The height of your hand from where the wrist joins the hand to the tip of your pinkie (about 4/5 of your hand).
Measurement Y: The height of your hand from where the wrist joins the hand to the tip of your middle finger (aka the height of your hand).
Measurement Z: The length of your thumb.

Write all these down so you can refer back to them later.

Mittens (Make Two):

Cuff:

Fall is nearly here where I live in central NY, and that means it's time for fingerless glove/armwarmers. I love the warm, harvest colors!

H hook

150g worsted weight yarn (I used a blend of 70% wool & 30% alpaca yarn)

2 small pom-poms

tapestry needle

11 & 1/2" long

Fits an average arm width

20 hdc and 12 rows = 4"

Make 2

ch 50

Row 1: hdc in 2nd loop from hook to end, ch2, turn

Row 2: hdc in back loop of each st

Row 3-20: rep Row 2, ch 1

sc across the top (over the 20 st), finish off, leaving a 25" tail

Finishing:

Fold in half and sew long sides together for about 2". Run yarn through 9-10 stitches for thumb hole. Continue sewing to bottom. Finish off. weave in ends.

Embellish each with one small pom-pom.

It's spring, and what better way to take in those fresh mornings than with a blooming pair of fingerless gloves. This experiment with pattern design began with a circle of daisy motifs, followed by two rows of daisy pattern and then a modified lace.

1 skein each of three colors Elann.com superwash worsted

 Real wool, like the Highland brand can be substituted, but I wanted these to be washable in the event the children of my family decide they like them and they disappear.

The colors were:

Gold

White

Celery

Size E – 3.50 mm hook

Gloves fit a small to medium and are about 8-inches long and 7.5 inches around.

Daisy motif is 1.25 inches.

Lace pattern repeat of 3 rows deep and 6 stitches is also 1.25 inches.

Most of my life, I have been crocheting like my grandmother, by the seat of my pants. If it works, I do it. If I think a pattern would be better suited to my way of thinking, I do it. So, if anything here appears unclear, email me and I would be happy to talk you through it.

Like most good ideas, this glove pattern was seeded by a couple of great ideas that have flashed by my face lately. I thought they turned out okay, but I will be tweaking on the pattern as time allows… something I have very little of these days

Single crochet – sc

Double crochet – dc

3-dc cluster: (Yarn over draw through loop, yarn over draw through 2 loops) three times in same stitch, yarn over draw through all loops, chain 1. 5-dc cluster: Same as 3-dc cluster only repeat five times and draw thread through six loops on the hook. Chain 1.

Daisy Stitch – This stitch is always worked on the right side only so it’s perfect for rounds. Skip first chain, draw a loop through each of the next 4 chains, wrap yarn around hook, draw through all five loops, chain 1 *insert hook through eye made by chain 1 (center of previous daisy) draw loop through chain of last daisy, draw through next 2 chain, wrap yarn around hook and draw through all 5 loops. Chain 1.

Daisy Center: With gold, use open loop and work 7 single crochet (sc) in the loop, slip stitch (sl) to first sc and close loop gently. Fasten off.

Yep, that’s correct. You can go ahead and make eight of these right off the bat. - four centers for each glove.

Petals: Connect white wool to any sc and chain three (counts as first dc). Do a 3-dc cluster. Chain 3, slip stitch into base of cluster – one flower petal. Slip stitch to the next sc – repeat petal pattern in each sc for a total of 7 petals. End.

DAISY CHAIN - Connect the four blossoms as you crochet each one to form a complete circle. Because there are 7 petals, alternate the connections so you have a sequence of two petals, three petals, two petals and three petals. (See photo).

CUFF:

Row 1. Using Celery, connect to space between petals with a double crochet, (OR CHAIN THREE DEPENDING ON HOW YOU CONNECT YOUR GRANNY SQUARES.) for a 3-dc cluster; chain 3, sc in top of petal, chain 2, sc in the top of the next petal; chain 3, cluster between flowers, chain 3, sc in top of next petal, repeat… keeping in mind you will have two petals and then three petals with two chains between them and three chains before and after clusters. End with slipstitch to top of first cluster.

Row 2: Single crochet around like this -- chain 1, sc in top of cluster, 3 sc over chain 3 space, 2 sc over chain 2 space, sc in top of cluster. Repeat to end. Slipstitch to top of cluster; 51 stitches.

Row 3: Picot row. Chain 3, skip one stitch, sc, chain three, repeat around for a total of 24 loops. Fasten off. If you are making a cuff, repeat for other side of daisy chain, fasten off, and hide ends.

NOTE: It would look really cool to add a bead at the top of each cluster. HOWEVER, if you wish to make a fingerless glove…. Continue… This is slightly different than the other side so pay attention.

Row 1: With Celery wool, connect to space between flowers with a double crochet, make four more dc in space for a five-dc cluster. Chain 2, sc in top of petal, chain 2, sc in top of petal, chain 2, 5-dc cluster in space between flowers, repeat. Slip stitch to top of cluster at the end of the row.

Row 2: Slipstitch into chain 2 space. Chain three (counts as one dc), double crochet in same space. Two dc in each chain 2 space 12 more times, four dc in last chain 2 space; 30 stitches. Just to make it challenging the row below the glove hand will have 5-dc clusters between the flowers and chain 2 spaces between clusters and petals.

Chain 3, begin daisy stitch by drawing up loops in each of next 4 stitches, draw thread through five loops, chain 1 – draw up loop in eye of this first stitch and then in last stitch of previous daisy, and next two stitches, draw thread through chain 1 repeat for a total of two rows. Slipstitch to top of daisy to end row.

Increase row – Chain 1, sc in space, sc in next space, two sc in next space (inc.); repeat sc, sc, inc.; repeat – 40 stitches. Slip stitch into first sc, chain

Lace Pattern:

Row 1: Chain 3, dc in next 2 stitches; chain 3, skip two stitches, sc in next stitch, chain 3, skip 2 stitches, dc in next 3 stitches,* repeat between * slip stitch to third chain.

Row 2: Chain 3, dc in top of next two dc *chain1, sc in chain 3 space, chain 3, sc in chain 3 space, ch1, 3 dc over top of 3 dc* repeat between * slip stitch to third chain.

Row 3: Chain 3, dc in top of next two stitches, *3 dc in chain 3 space, 3 dc in next three stitches*, repeat between * slip stitch to third chain.

Row 4: Repeat row 1 lace pattern.

Row 5: Repeat row 2 lace pattern.

Row 6: Repeat row 3 lace pattern.

Row 7: repeat row 1 lace pattern.

Row 8: repeat row 2 lace pattern.

Row 9: (left hand) Repeat row 3 of pattern to the last 9 stitches. Crochet 6 dc instead of three in chain 3 space. 1 dc, 2 dc in one stitch, 1 dc over the previous row dc, 6 dc in next chain 3 space. Join with slipstitch to third chain.

Row 9: (right hand) Begin the pattern row with the first three dc on top of previous dc, then the increases, then continue in pattern, slip stitch to third chain.

Thumb gusset: (left hand) Work row 1 of lace pattern until first 6 dc inc.; attach chain 3 to third dc, chain 3, sc in fourth dc of next 6dc inc.; skipping the dc, 2 dc, dc set of stitches. Chain 3, continue with pattern.

Thumb gusset: (right hand) Chain 3, dc in next two stitches, chain 3, sc in third dc in 6 dc increase; chain 3, skip next dc, 2 dc, dc inc., sc in fourth dc of 6 dc increase, continue in pattern until end of row, slipstitch to third chain.

Repeat row 2 and 3 of lace pattern adding 3dc over thumb chain space. Fasten off.

I used a little white to sc around the edges just for fun… enjoy.

This is my first attempt at writing out a pattern, and it's something I created myself. these easy "armies" can be made in 30-40 min per pair. It's kind of a wrist warmer thingy that are all the rage right now.

Hook- 5.5mm, size I-9
Red Heart Super saver yarn in multi color. ( I used color 0932 Zebra ART. E300)
I didn't measure amount but it's not that much, I made 2 pairs from one skein and still have a ton left.

Varies if you want it longer add more rows.

doesn't really matter

ch=chain
st= stitch
slp st = slip stitch
hdc= half- double crochet
dbl= double crochet

Ok Here we go!

Chain 20 (or to fit your arm size, measure chain around your arm about 4-5 in. from your wrist)

Row 1: Slp st into first ch to form a circle, careful not to twist, ch 1 (counts as first hdc). Hdc in each ch (19 sts) slp st into ch 1.

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts first dbl) Dbl in each hdc around, slp st into top of ch 2.

Row 3-8: Repeat rows 1 and 2 alternately ending with a Dbl crochet row.

Row 9: (thumb hole rows) Ch 1 Hdc in each st around, (19 st), ch 2, turn.

Row 10: Dbl in each st around, ch 1, turn

Row 11: Hdc in each st around, slp st into ch 1 to join.

Row 12-13: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, slp st into ch 1. Finish off, weave in ends.

This is a crochet version of Knitty's Voodoo Wrist Warmers. Mmm... So warm!

110 yd 4/worsted-weight yarn
J-10 (6.0 mm) crochet hook
Yarn needle

One size fits all.

Not needed.

http://crochetkitten.blogspot.com/2009/01/charmed-wrist-warmers.html

Quick and easy crochet fingerless mitts

Size 4.00 mm hook (US G/6)
8 ply yarn (US light worsted)

US abbreviations used
Stitches used
Sl st, sc, dc

Notes: centre st referred to through out pattern is the second dc of the 3 dc group, or the 1st dc of the ch 3 and 2 dc group

Size’s, small to medium, (medium to large)

not required

Notes: centre st referred to through out pattern is the second dc of the 3 dc group, or the 1st dc of the ch 3 and 2 dc group

Beginning at wrist

Ch 21, (medium to large size ch 25)
Sl st to form a ring, avoid twisting ring

ROW 1. Ch 3, 2 dc in same st as ch 3, ch 1, skip 2 ch, *3 dc in next ch, ch 1, skip next 2 ch* repeat to end, join with a sl st to top of beginning ch 3
(7, 3 dc groups made, small to medium size, 8, 3 dc groups made, medium to large size)

ROW 2. sl st to the centre dc of group (see notes), ch 3, 2 dc in same space, ch 1, *3dc in next centre dc, ch 1*, repeat to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3

ROWS 3 to 8. repeat above row 6 times more, giving you 8 rows in total

Making the thumb hole

ROW 9. sl st to the centre dc of group, ch 12, sl st in centre dc of next dc group, ch 3, sl st into 9th ch of the ch 12, 1dc in same space as ch 3, ch 1, continue pattern around ending with 2 dc in beginning ch 12 space, sl st into 3rd ch of the ch 12, work 5 sc in next 5 ch, and sl st across to top of ch 3 (centre of group)

ROW 10. ch 3, 2 dc in same place, ch 1, *3dc in next centre dc, ch 1*, repeat to end,

ROW 11. 3 dc in centre group of beginning ch 12, ch 1, skip 2 sc, 3 dc in next sc, ch 1, skip 2 sc, sl st to join in top of ch 3 of next group, (this is the new beginning of the rounds)
sl st to centre dc, ch 3, 2 dc in same space, ch 1, continue around in pattern, sl st to top of beginning ch 3

Making the top

ROW 12. Sl st to centre of first group, ch 4, sl st into centre dc of next group, *ch 4, sl st into centre of next group*, repeat to end finishing with a sc in same space as beginning ch 4

ROW 13. 3 sc in ch 4 space, 1 sc in same place as the sl st of the previous row, (into the top of the dc) *3 sc in ch 4 space, 1 sc in same place as the sl st of the previous row*, repeat to end finishing with a sl st to join in the ending sc of the previous row

ROW 14. 1 sc in next sc, (sl st, ch 3 sl st all in next sc), *1 sc in next 3 sc, (sl st, ch 3 sl st all in next sc)*, repeat to final 4 sc, 1 sc in next 3 sc, (sl st, ch 3 sl st all in next sc), sl st in next sc and fasten off

Weave in ends and block if necessary

I wanted a lacy, dainty, delicate glove. Something light to wear in the Summer months ahead. I think these look so elegant and lady-like! Don't you agree?

1 Skein Bernat Baby, Fingering Weight, 100% Acrylic, White
Size "E" (3.5 mm) Crochet Hook
Yarn Needle

A woman's size Small/Medium

6 dc + 3 Rows = 1" in Pattern
(Pattern is a multiple of 8 + 5 chs if you want to work a swatch first.)

These would be awesome worked in a 100% Cotton, or a Size 3 cotton thread, or even a variegated yarn!

Instructions
Ch 37
Row 1 (Right Side): Dc in fifth ch from hook, *skip next 3 chs, 5 dc in next ch, skip next 3 chs, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch, repeat from * across.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn, 2 dc in next ch 1 sp, skip next 3 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next dc, * 5 dc in next ch 1 sp, skip next 3 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next dc, repeat from * across to last sp, 3 dc in last sp.
Row 3: Ch 4, turn, dc in first dc, * 5 dc in next ch 1 sp, skip next 3 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next dc, repeat from * across.
Repeat Rows 2 & 3 seven times or until desired length, ending after Row 2.

Do not cut yarn. Work a Crab Stitch (reverse crochet) across the top. Work sc all around both sides and bottom of piece.

Finishing
With Right Sides Together, slip stitch along side of glove for about 1", leave about a 1 ½" opening for thumb. When seaming is complete, tuck in ends!

Work the 2nd glove the same way!

So I was sitting in my room listening to music when I found this cool hot pink yarn I had bought over the summer in florida. It was super soft and stretchy. So i figured what the hell I'll make something out of this and viola! I made a pair of delicious looking hot pink fingerless gloves. It took me about an hour to make 2 of them. They work up pretty fast.

Size 6.5 K crochet hook
Any thick stretchy yarn (the yarn i used had no label so I cant be too specific about the type.)

5.5 inches long, 4 Inches wide. Since these gloves were made to stretch I'll say one size fits all. :-D

No specific gauge that i followed. I pretty much just went with however it came out.

This fingerless mitt is done clompletely in HDC (Half Double crochet) and worked back and forth instead of rounds. when the piece is the length you want you single crochet the sides together.

BLO=Back Loops only
FLO= Front loops only

Row 1:

Chain 29, HDC in 2nd ch from hook, Hdc across. Ch 2 turn.

Row 2: In BLO!

Hdc across. Ch 2, turn.

Row 3: In FLO!

Hdc across ch 2, turn.

Row 4-17:

alternate the hdc stitch in flo and blo.

(example: row 4 BLO, row 5 FLO etc.)

Or keep adding rows until you have them the length you want.

I wear a mediums in womens gloves and the gloves are supposed to be loose fitting.
And then Viola! you have now created easy fingerless gloves that won't take hours away from your day.

These would be great gifts!

I love crochet cables! They look hard, and at first might seem hard to a beginner. But once you get them down, they look awesome! These gloves are designed to be warm, soft and functional - but mostly? To show off the cable stitch!

1 Skein Caron Simply Soft, 100% Acrylic, in any color you choose
Size "H" (5 mm) crochet hook
Yarn Needle

Women's Small/Medium
Finished Length: 9 1/2"

4 sc and 5 rows = 1" (10cm)

Crochet Cable Gauntlets
By Christie Pruitt
Materials
1 Skein Caron Simply Soft
Size "H" crochet hook
Yarn Needle
Gauge
4 sc = 1", 5 rows = 1" in sc
Finished Size
Length: 9 ½"
Will fit Woman's Small/Medium
Right Glove
Ch 29
Row 1: sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (28 sc)
Row 2: sc across, ch 1, turn.
Row 3: sc in next 18 sc, skip next 2 sc, work a double crochet in next 2 sc by dropping down to Row 1, inserting needle from front to back and around post of corresponding stitch, then work a treble crochet in the 1st, then the 2nd skipped stitches by inserting needle from front to back and around post of corresponding stitch from Row 1 (cross-over made), sc in last 6 sc, ch 1, turn.
Row 4: sc across, ch 1, turn.
Row 5: sc across next 18 sc, work a double crochet around the post of the next 2 treble crochets and the next 2 double crochets from row below, sc in last 6 sc, ch 1, turn.
Row 6: as Row 4
Continue in Cable Pattern, working from Row 3 through Row 6, five more times.
Thumb Increases
Next Row : 2 sc into first sc, work in Pattern to last st, 2 sc in last stitch. Ch 1, turn.
Repeat this row on both Right Side and Wrong Side rows for a total of 8 times. 44 stitches - (8 extra stitches on each end for thumb.)
Work even until glove measures 8" from beginning.
Next Row: sl st in next 8 thumb sts, work in pattern across, leaving last 8 sts unworked, ch 1, turn. (You should have just completed Row 3 of cable pattern.)
Work Cable Pattern Rows 4 - 6, then Row 3 once more over remaining 28 stitches.
Cut yarn.
Left Glove
The Left Glove will be worked the same as the Right Glove - the only difference is that the location of the cable will change.
Follow pattern for Right Glove until Row 3.
Row 3 for Left Glove: 1 sc in next 6 sc, work cross-over as for Right Glove, sc in last 18 sc, ch 1, turn.
Work Row 4.
Row 5 for Left Glove: 1 sc in next 6 sc, work double crochets as for Right Glove, sc in last 18 sc, ch 1, turn.
Work Row 6.
Continue with Left Glove as per instructions from Right Glove, remembering that the cable is now in a new location!
Finishing
I seamed these gloves on the Right Side of the glove instead of with wrong sides together - because I didn't like the thick seam it created along the thumb. I used a running stitch, not a whip stitch to do this. The whip stitch will show! :)
Seam side edges, thumb and area on edge of hand above the thumb. Work a crab stitch (reverse crochet) around top of hand, top edge of thumb and around wrist edge.
Try gloves on - and pinch thumb area together until it fits snugly - then sew that area with a small piece of yarn. That will close up the thumb opening and actually make it a thumb hole!
Weave in ends.

These handwarmers are crocheted with an openwork stitch pattern and have scalloped edges.
They're just perfect for middle seasons..
Extremely easy, maybe one of the best patterns for people who wants to start crocheting!

1 ball Tropical Lane "Cin Cin" (75% Merinos, 5% Cotton, 20% Dralon) (50g/125m)
(any worsted weight yarn)
4.00mm hook

Adult woman

"3dc, ch2" twice * 5rows = 5 * 5,5cm

Handwarmer's cuff:
Ch 35, sl st to form ring, careful not to twist the ch.
Round 1: ch3, dc in next 2 ch, ch1, sk 2ch, * 3dc in next 3ch, ch1, sk 2ch*. Repeat from* across ending round with ch1 and sl st in third ch og beg. ch3.
Round 2: ch4 (counts as 1dc and ch1), *3dc in next ch1 space, ch1*, repeat from* across to last ch1 space, 2dc in space and sl st in third ch of beg. ch3.
Round 3: ch3, 2dc in ch1 space, ch1, *3dc in next ch1 space, ch1*. Repeat from * across, ending with ch1 and sl st in third ch of beg. ch3.
Round 4: repeat round 2.
Round 5: repeat round 3.
FROM HERE ON make 2ch between each 3dc group instead of 1ch (that means that you make 5ch instead of 4ch at the beginning of each round 2).
Continue working rows 2 and 3 until the point where you'll make the thumb hole.(I've made a total of 11 rows from cuff's bottom to thumb hole), ending with a row 3.
Thumb hole:
Row 1: Sl st in each ofthe next 2 dc and in 1 ch of first ch2 space of previous round.
Ch3, 2dc in same ch2 space, *ch2, 3dc in next space*.Repeat from * across until the last ch2 space of previous round, 1dc in space, ch3, turn.
Row 2: 2dc in ch1 space, ch2, *3dc in next ch2 space, ch2*. Repeat from * across, ending with ch2 and 1dc in third ch of beg ch3 of previous row.
Closing thumb hole: ch5 ,sl st to third ch of beg ch3 of last row, turn.
Top Round: Ch3, 2dc in ch5 space, ch2, skip dc, 3dc in next space.,*ch2, 3dc in next space*. Repeat from * across, ending with ch2 and sl st in third ch of beg. ch3.
Scalloped edge: Ch1, *5hdc in second dc of next dc group, sc in next space*. Repeat from * across, ending with a sl st in beg ch1.
Weave in ends and enjoy them!