Quick and easy crochet fingerless mitts

Size 4.00 mm hook (US G/6)
8 ply yarn (US light worsted)

US abbreviations used
Stitches used
Sl st, sc, dc

Notes: centre st referred to through out pattern is the second dc of the 3 dc group, or the 1st dc of the ch 3 and 2 dc group

Size’s, small to medium, (medium to large)

not required

Notes: centre st referred to through out pattern is the second dc of the 3 dc group, or the 1st dc of the ch 3 and 2 dc group

Beginning at wrist

Ch 21, (medium to large size ch 25)
Sl st to form a ring, avoid twisting ring

ROW 1. Ch 3, 2 dc in same st as ch 3, ch 1, skip 2 ch, *3 dc in next ch, ch 1, skip next 2 ch* repeat to end, join with a sl st to top of beginning ch 3
(7, 3 dc groups made, small to medium size, 8, 3 dc groups made, medium to large size)

ROW 2. sl st to the centre dc of group (see notes), ch 3, 2 dc in same space, ch 1, *3dc in next centre dc, ch 1*, repeat to end, sl st to top of beginning ch 3

ROWS 3 to 8. repeat above row 6 times more, giving you 8 rows in total

Making the thumb hole

ROW 9. sl st to the centre dc of group, ch 12, sl st in centre dc of next dc group, ch 3, sl st into 9th ch of the ch 12, 1dc in same space as ch 3, ch 1, continue pattern around ending with 2 dc in beginning ch 12 space, sl st into 3rd ch of the ch 12, work 5 sc in next 5 ch, and sl st across to top of ch 3 (centre of group)

ROW 10. ch 3, 2 dc in same place, ch 1, *3dc in next centre dc, ch 1*, repeat to end,

ROW 11. 3 dc in centre group of beginning ch 12, ch 1, skip 2 sc, 3 dc in next sc, ch 1, skip 2 sc, sl st to join in top of ch 3 of next group, (this is the new beginning of the rounds)
sl st to centre dc, ch 3, 2 dc in same space, ch 1, continue around in pattern, sl st to top of beginning ch 3

Making the top

ROW 12. Sl st to centre of first group, ch 4, sl st into centre dc of next group, *ch 4, sl st into centre of next group*, repeat to end finishing with a sc in same space as beginning ch 4

ROW 13. 3 sc in ch 4 space, 1 sc in same place as the sl st of the previous row, (into the top of the dc) *3 sc in ch 4 space, 1 sc in same place as the sl st of the previous row*, repeat to end finishing with a sl st to join in the ending sc of the previous row

ROW 14. 1 sc in next sc, (sl st, ch 3 sl st all in next sc), *1 sc in next 3 sc, (sl st, ch 3 sl st all in next sc)*, repeat to final 4 sc, 1 sc in next 3 sc, (sl st, ch 3 sl st all in next sc), sl st in next sc and fasten off

Weave in ends and block if necessary

I wanted a lacy, dainty, delicate glove. Something light to wear in the Summer months ahead. I think these look so elegant and lady-like! Don't you agree?

1 Skein Bernat Baby, Fingering Weight, 100% Acrylic, White
Size "E" (3.5 mm) Crochet Hook
Yarn Needle

A woman's size Small/Medium

6 dc + 3 Rows = 1" in Pattern
(Pattern is a multiple of 8 + 5 chs if you want to work a swatch first.)

These would be awesome worked in a 100% Cotton, or a Size 3 cotton thread, or even a variegated yarn!

Instructions
Ch 37
Row 1 (Right Side): Dc in fifth ch from hook, *skip next 3 chs, 5 dc in next ch, skip next 3 chs, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch, repeat from * across.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn, 2 dc in next ch 1 sp, skip next 3 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next dc, * 5 dc in next ch 1 sp, skip next 3 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next dc, repeat from * across to last sp, 3 dc in last sp.
Row 3: Ch 4, turn, dc in first dc, * 5 dc in next ch 1 sp, skip next 3 dc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next dc, repeat from * across.
Repeat Rows 2 & 3 seven times or until desired length, ending after Row 2.

Do not cut yarn. Work a Crab Stitch (reverse crochet) across the top. Work sc all around both sides and bottom of piece.

Finishing
With Right Sides Together, slip stitch along side of glove for about 1", leave about a 1 ½" opening for thumb. When seaming is complete, tuck in ends!

Work the 2nd glove the same way!

So I was sitting in my room listening to music when I found this cool hot pink yarn I had bought over the summer in florida. It was super soft and stretchy. So i figured what the hell I'll make something out of this and viola! I made a pair of delicious looking hot pink fingerless gloves. It took me about an hour to make 2 of them. They work up pretty fast.

Size 6.5 K crochet hook
Any thick stretchy yarn (the yarn i used had no label so I cant be too specific about the type.)

5.5 inches long, 4 Inches wide. Since these gloves were made to stretch I'll say one size fits all. :-D

No specific gauge that i followed. I pretty much just went with however it came out.

This fingerless mitt is done clompletely in HDC (Half Double crochet) and worked back and forth instead of rounds. when the piece is the length you want you single crochet the sides together.

BLO=Back Loops only
FLO= Front loops only

Row 1:

Chain 29, HDC in 2nd ch from hook, Hdc across. Ch 2 turn.

Row 2: In BLO!

Hdc across. Ch 2, turn.

Row 3: In FLO!

Hdc across ch 2, turn.

Row 4-17:

alternate the hdc stitch in flo and blo.

(example: row 4 BLO, row 5 FLO etc.)

Or keep adding rows until you have them the length you want.

I wear a mediums in womens gloves and the gloves are supposed to be loose fitting.
And then Viola! you have now created easy fingerless gloves that won't take hours away from your day.

These would be great gifts!

I love crochet cables! They look hard, and at first might seem hard to a beginner. But once you get them down, they look awesome! These gloves are designed to be warm, soft and functional - but mostly? To show off the cable stitch!

1 Skein Caron Simply Soft, 100% Acrylic, in any color you choose
Size "H" (5 mm) crochet hook
Yarn Needle

Women's Small/Medium
Finished Length: 9 1/2"

4 sc and 5 rows = 1" (10cm)

Crochet Cable Gauntlets
By Christie Pruitt
Materials
1 Skein Caron Simply Soft
Size "H" crochet hook
Yarn Needle
Gauge
4 sc = 1", 5 rows = 1" in sc
Finished Size
Length: 9 ½"
Will fit Woman's Small/Medium
Right Glove
Ch 29
Row 1: sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (28 sc)
Row 2: sc across, ch 1, turn.
Row 3: sc in next 18 sc, skip next 2 sc, work a double crochet in next 2 sc by dropping down to Row 1, inserting needle from front to back and around post of corresponding stitch, then work a treble crochet in the 1st, then the 2nd skipped stitches by inserting needle from front to back and around post of corresponding stitch from Row 1 (cross-over made), sc in last 6 sc, ch 1, turn.
Row 4: sc across, ch 1, turn.
Row 5: sc across next 18 sc, work a double crochet around the post of the next 2 treble crochets and the next 2 double crochets from row below, sc in last 6 sc, ch 1, turn.
Row 6: as Row 4
Continue in Cable Pattern, working from Row 3 through Row 6, five more times.
Thumb Increases
Next Row : 2 sc into first sc, work in Pattern to last st, 2 sc in last stitch. Ch 1, turn.
Repeat this row on both Right Side and Wrong Side rows for a total of 8 times. 44 stitches - (8 extra stitches on each end for thumb.)
Work even until glove measures 8" from beginning.
Next Row: sl st in next 8 thumb sts, work in pattern across, leaving last 8 sts unworked, ch 1, turn. (You should have just completed Row 3 of cable pattern.)
Work Cable Pattern Rows 4 - 6, then Row 3 once more over remaining 28 stitches.
Cut yarn.
Left Glove
The Left Glove will be worked the same as the Right Glove - the only difference is that the location of the cable will change.
Follow pattern for Right Glove until Row 3.
Row 3 for Left Glove: 1 sc in next 6 sc, work cross-over as for Right Glove, sc in last 18 sc, ch 1, turn.
Work Row 4.
Row 5 for Left Glove: 1 sc in next 6 sc, work double crochets as for Right Glove, sc in last 18 sc, ch 1, turn.
Work Row 6.
Continue with Left Glove as per instructions from Right Glove, remembering that the cable is now in a new location!
Finishing
I seamed these gloves on the Right Side of the glove instead of with wrong sides together - because I didn't like the thick seam it created along the thumb. I used a running stitch, not a whip stitch to do this. The whip stitch will show! :)
Seam side edges, thumb and area on edge of hand above the thumb. Work a crab stitch (reverse crochet) around top of hand, top edge of thumb and around wrist edge.
Try gloves on - and pinch thumb area together until it fits snugly - then sew that area with a small piece of yarn. That will close up the thumb opening and actually make it a thumb hole!
Weave in ends.

These handwarmers are crocheted with an openwork stitch pattern and have scalloped edges.
They're just perfect for middle seasons..
Extremely easy, maybe one of the best patterns for people who wants to start crocheting!

1 ball Tropical Lane "Cin Cin" (75% Merinos, 5% Cotton, 20% Dralon) (50g/125m)
(any worsted weight yarn)
4.00mm hook

Adult woman

"3dc, ch2" twice * 5rows = 5 * 5,5cm

Handwarmer's cuff:
Ch 35, sl st to form ring, careful not to twist the ch.
Round 1: ch3, dc in next 2 ch, ch1, sk 2ch, * 3dc in next 3ch, ch1, sk 2ch*. Repeat from* across ending round with ch1 and sl st in third ch og beg. ch3.
Round 2: ch4 (counts as 1dc and ch1), *3dc in next ch1 space, ch1*, repeat from* across to last ch1 space, 2dc in space and sl st in third ch of beg. ch3.
Round 3: ch3, 2dc in ch1 space, ch1, *3dc in next ch1 space, ch1*. Repeat from * across, ending with ch1 and sl st in third ch of beg. ch3.
Round 4: repeat round 2.
Round 5: repeat round 3.
FROM HERE ON make 2ch between each 3dc group instead of 1ch (that means that you make 5ch instead of 4ch at the beginning of each round 2).
Continue working rows 2 and 3 until the point where you'll make the thumb hole.(I've made a total of 11 rows from cuff's bottom to thumb hole), ending with a row 3.
Thumb hole:
Row 1: Sl st in each ofthe next 2 dc and in 1 ch of first ch2 space of previous round.
Ch3, 2dc in same ch2 space, *ch2, 3dc in next space*.Repeat from * across until the last ch2 space of previous round, 1dc in space, ch3, turn.
Row 2: 2dc in ch1 space, ch2, *3dc in next ch2 space, ch2*. Repeat from * across, ending with ch2 and 1dc in third ch of beg ch3 of previous row.
Closing thumb hole: ch5 ,sl st to third ch of beg ch3 of last row, turn.
Top Round: Ch3, 2dc in ch5 space, ch2, skip dc, 3dc in next space.,*ch2, 3dc in next space*. Repeat from * across, ending with ch2 and sl st in third ch of beg. ch3.
Scalloped edge: Ch1, *5hdc in second dc of next dc group, sc in next space*. Repeat from * across, ending with a sl st in beg ch1.
Weave in ends and enjoy them!

I'd just finished crocheting this and realized I had a surprising amount of left over yarn, while I was on the bus heading home one evening. It's been getting colder and colder here and I wished I had some gloves or handwarmers, so I decided to see if I could crochet some up with my remnant yarn before I got home.

This pattern uses the same stitch and yarn as Julie Holetz's sweater clutch. These handwarmers have a little split at the bottom to make it easy to get over your knuckles and onto your wrists and also have an adorable little five-petal flower adorning the back of each.

Crocheting

• Brown Sheep Lambs Pride (85% soft wool, 15% mohair/190 yds), 1 skein of Persian Peacock (choose your favorite color)
• Size F/3.75mm crochet hook
• Yarn/tapestry needle
• Stitch markers

Fulling/felting

• Top-loading washing machine
• Mild hand-dish-washing soap
• Old pillow slipcover (preferably zippered)
• Safety pins (in case you don't have a zippered one)

Approx 7" high from knuckles to below wrist; 4.5" wide and widest point.
I'm afraid I didn't measure it before felting/fulling it in the wash so I don't know what it started out at but a little blocking will make it fit just right.
I will be working this pattern again so I can get these little details I missed.

Please see above.

Use stitch markers to mark the end of each round or you'll quickly lose track of where you are.

This pattern uses the herringbone half double crochet throughout.

hhdc - herringbone half double crochet: yo, insert hook into st, yo, draw up loop and pull through one loop on hook, yo and draw through both loops on hook

hhdc2tog – herringbone half double crochet two together: yo, insert hook into first st, yo, draw up loop and pull through one loop on hook, yo, insert hook into next st, yo, draw up loop and pull through one loop on hook, yo and draw through all three loops on hook

2n1 - two herringbone half double crochets in one stitch: yo, insert hook into first st, yo, draw up loop and pull through one loop on hook, yo, insert hook into same st, yo, draw up loop and pull through one loop on hook, yo and draw through all three loops on hook

Handwarmer
Ch 19 turn.
R1: hhdc 2nd ch from hook. 18 across.
R2: ch1, turn, 18 hhdc
R3 - 4: ch1, join 18 hhdc
R5: 5 hhdc, hhdc 2tog, 6 hhdc, 2n1, 5 hhdc. 20 total.
R6: 20 hhdc
R7: 6 hhdc, 2n1, 6 hhdc, 2n1, 6 hhdc. 22 total.
R8: 6 hhdc, 2n1, 8 hhdc, 2n1, 6 hhdc. 24 total.
R9: Compare piece to your hand and choose where you want to place the hole for your thumb. Hhdc to position and/or if you're already there, ch1 & hhdc around. 20 total + 1ch.
R10-11: 21 hhdc.
R12: (decreasing) hhdc2tog, 5 hhdc, hhdc2tog, 5 hhdc, hhdc2tog, 5hhdc. 18 total.
R13: 7 hhdc, hhdc2tog, 7 hhdc, sl st, tie off, weave in

Flower
Ch 3, join with sl st, creates base loop
*Ch 4, hhdc in 3rd ch from hook
Ch 2, hhdc in loops of last hhdc, hhdc in base ch st of last hhdc, sl st to 3rd ch in loop*
Working in base loop, repeat from * 4 more times (5 petals total).

My very good friend Jonathan never wanted me to make him anything which was hard for me as I love to knit/crochet things for people. FINALLY one day we went to my LYS and he picked out this yarn and said I could knit him a headband. So I did. Then he loved it so much he wanted matching armwarmers. So I made these armies up. Very easy and no seams (which I love).
It's summer here in NZ, but next winter he will be pretty stylie. They are very easy and very quick. And you make them to fit quite snug since I find crochet stretches.
Please let me know if you have any problems. I always just make stuff up as I go along, and this seems pretty straightforward to me, but it may not be!

Hummingbird Aires Fast Knitting 50g
4 skeins

custom fit - you decide the size

12 sc = 4" (10cm) I think

(Make 2)
-Ch34
-Sc into 3rd chain from hook
(Make 2)
-Sc across all chains (32 sc)
-Ch 2, turn. Sc into all sc.
-Repeat these rows until the rectangle is large enough to wrap around you arm with a snug fit.
-Last row, fold your rectangle so that the beginning row is in line with the last row. Work sc through both the first and the last row for 5 sc. Work 6-8 sc only on one row (up to you, this is for the thumb hole). On 7th or 9th, begin sc through both rows again. Sc through both rows until the end. Pull ball of yarn through loop to fasten off, but don’t cut yarn.
-At the cuff, pick a loop, pull yarn up and through (you are now working in the round at the cuff), chain 2. SC through loops around the edge until you reach the beginning of the round. Sl st. Ch2, turn. Sc back the other way to the beginning of the round. Sl st. Continue in this matter for 4 more rows (or however much longer you wnt to make it – if you go too far up the arm you will have to increase about 4 more sc evenly over the round to make room for the upper forearm). Fasten off. Weave in ends. Long armies with no seams!!

My very good friend Jonathan never wanted me to make him anything which was hard for me as I love to knit/crochet things for people. FINALLY one day we went to my LYS and he picked out this yarn and said I could knit him a headband. So I did. Then he loved it so much he wanted matching armwarmers. So I made these armies up. Very easy and no seams (which I love).
It's summer here in NZ, but next winter he will be pretty stylie. They are very easy and very quick. And you make them to fit quite snug since I find crochet stretches.
Please let me know if you have any problems. I always just make stuff up as I go along, and this seems pretty straightforward to me, but it may not be!

Hummingbird Aires Fast Knitting 50g
4 skeins

custom fit - you decide the size

12 sc = 4" (10cm) I think

-Ch34
-Sc into 3rd chain from hook
-Sc across all chains (32 sc)
-Ch 2, turn. Sc into all sc.
-Repeat these rows until the rectangle is large enough to wrap around you arm with a snug fit.
-Last row, fold your rectangle so that the beginning row is in line with the last row. Work sc through both the first and the last row for 5 sc. Work 6-8 sc only on one row (up to you, this is for the thumb hole). On 7th or 9th, begin sc through both rows again. Sc through both rows until the end. Pull ball of yarn through loop to fasten off, but don’t cut yarn.
-At the cuff, pick a loop, pull yarn up and through (you are now working in the round at the cuff), chain 2. SC through loops around the edge until you reach the beginning of the round. Sl st. Ch2, turn. Sc back the other way to the beginning of the round. Sl st. Continue in this matter for 4 more rows (or however much longer you wnt to make it – if you go too far up the arm you will have to increase about 4 more sc evenly over the round to make room for the upper forearm). Fasten off. Weave in ends. Long armies with no seams!!

Crocheted mohair handwarmers,cozy and beautiful and so easy to make!
You can put on a crocheted flower (as i did!), to give them a romantic touch!
Hope you'll enjoy them.
Thanks for looking!

Mohair (40% mohair, 60% dralon)
4mm hook

Adult woman.

8 dc* 4 rows = 5*5 cm

Handwarmers (make two!):
Ch 23, dc in 4th ch and each ch across,turn.
Row 1: ch3, dc in each dc,turn.
Row 2-13: repeat Row1.
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing sides of handwarmer.
Fold piece in half and sew base ch and top of last row together along 12 dc.Leave 5 dc open for thumb, and sew remaining dc of sides.
Cut yarn and wave in ends.

Cuff's scalloped edge:
Attach yarn at the cuff's seam, ch1, sc in same place, *5dc in space between next two dc,sc in space at the beg of next dc*. Repeat from* across, ending with sl st in first sc. Cut yarn and wave in end.

Flower:
Ch 4, join to first ch to form ring.
Round 1:Ch 1, work 14 sc in ring, sl st to beginning chain.(15sc)
Round 2: *Ch 3, skip 2 dc, sl st into next dc: repeat from * 4 more times ending in last stitch in base of beginning chain.
Round 3: *sc,2hdc,1dc,2hdc,sc* all in every ch3 space, join with a sl st to first sc.
Cut yarn leaving a tail for sewing the flower on the handwarmer.

Sew flower on the handwarmer where you prefer, and sew some little beads inside it if you like.
That's it!

These fingerless gloves are quick and easy to make. They will keep your hands warm in winter and make great gifts.

Size H/5.00mm Crochet hook.
Approx 32g of any 8ply yarn. I used 8ply mulitcolored yarn that i had left over from another project.

Approx 16cm long.

18 sc and 12 rows of cuff pattern = 4" (10cm)

Abbreviations:

st / sts = stitch / stitches

ch = chain

ss = slip stitch

sc = singe crochet

tr = treble crochet

Cuff:

Work all sts through back loop only.

Beg: Make 16 ch.

Row 1: 1 sc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 ch in next 13 ch, 1 ch, turn.

Row 2: sc in next 14 ch, 1 ch, turn.

Rows 3-25. Repeat row 2.

Join beg row and row 25 together using ss, 1 ch, do not fasten off.

Mitten:

Working into the ends of the cuff rows.

Row 1: sc in the end of each cuff row (25 sc), ss to join, 1 ch.

Turn cuff inside out, the right is now facing.

Row 2: 2 sc, *(1 tr and 1 sc in next sc), 2 sc, 1 tr, 3 sc,  repeat from * to end, ending with 3 sc, ss to join, 1 ch, turn.

You now have bobbles on the the outside of your gove

Row 3: sc in next 26 sc, ss to join, 1 ch, turn.

Row 4: 4 sc, *(1 tr and 1 sc in next sc), 3 sc, repeat from * to end, ending with 4 sc, ss to join, 1 ch, turn.

Row 5: sc in next 30 sc, ss to join, 1 ch, turn.

Row 6: 2 sc, *1 tr, 4 sc,  repeat from * to end, ending with 2 sc, ss to join, 1 ch, turn.

Row 7: repeat row 5.

Row 8: 6 sc, *1 tr, 4 sc,  repeat from * to end, ending with 4 sc, ss to join, 1 ch, turn.

Row 9: repeat row 5.

Row 10: 2 sc, 5 ch, skip next 5 sc, 5 sc, *sc 1 tr, 4 sc,  repeat from * to end, ending with 6 sc, ss to join, 1 ch, turn.

Row 11: sc in next 30 sc, ss to join, 1 ch, turn.

Row 12: sc in next 30 sc, ss to join, 1 ch, turn.

Row 13: dec 2 sts, sc in each sc to end (28 sc), ss to join, 1 ch, turn.

Row 14: dec 2 sts, sc in each sc to end (26 sc), ss to join, 1 ch, turn.

Row 15: dec 2 sts, sc in each sc to end (24 sc), ss to join, fasten off.

A pair of simple fingerless mittens I worked up as a last minute Christmas gift. I wrote down the pattern because I really liked how they turned out and I didn't see anything like it around.
They are worked in an Aran weight yarn on a 5mm (H) hook, so they work up rather quickly. Use a solid color for a more classic look or use your favourite hand dyed yarn and make a stylish accessory.

Yarn:
Multicolor mittens: Lana Grossa ‘Bingo Print’ (100% merino wool; 80m/87.5 yards - 50g): color 316, 2 balls.
Blue mittens: Fonty Numéro 5 (100% wool; 85m/93 yards - 50g; color 217; 2 balls).

Yarn Substitution: You need about 110 m (120 yards) of Aran weight yarn. I used about 70g of the Bingo Print for both mittens. If you buy 3 balls, you can make 2 pairs.

Other yarns I recommend (this list keeps growing as I make more mittens myself): Rowan RYC Cashsoft Aran, Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran

Hook: 5 mm (H)

One size fits most adult women. About 17 cm (6 ¾ inches) around.

18 sts / 14 rows sc tbl

The mittens are worked in a spiral without joining rounds. Place a marker in first st to mark beginning of round. All sts are worked through the back loop only.

Skills needed: crochet in the round, sc through the back loop, foundation sc (explained in this great tutorial).

Fsc 28. Join for working in the round with a sl st at bottom of first fsc, being careful not to twist.
Rd 1: Sc tbl in first fsc, place marker, sc to end of round (28 sts).
Rds 2-10: Sc around.
Rd 11: Sc 1 more in last st of last round, sc 1 (= first st of round), sc 2 in next st, sc to end of round.
Rd 12: Sc without increasing.
Repeat last 2 rounds 4 more times (38 sts).
Next Rd: Work to 4 sts before marker, ch 3 (new beginning of round is the second of those 3 sts), skip 4 sts after marker (32 sts).
(Edited because people were having trouble with the last line: You skip 4 sts before the marker, then the marked st, then 4 sts after the marked st, you skip 9 sts in total.)
Work even for another 7 rounds or up to desired length, ending with a sl st in first st of round. Fasten off.

Thumb:
Rejoin yarn at thumb opening. Sc in all 9 thumb sts (that were previously on hold), sc 1 in each bottom of 3 ch sts. Continue working in the round for 3 rounds or up to desired length, ending with a sl st in first st of round. .
Fasten off.

Finishing:
Weave in ends. Wash and block. Wear and enjoy.

I hate knitting with 4 needles, but I love mittens, so I decided to use one crochet hook in stead. Here is the result, autumn mittens, because they are not so thick, and quite fitting. They are made top down, which is logic when crocheting.

Rauma Finull
Hook 3,5 mm

Woman medium

10 st an 12 rounds = 5 cm x 5 cm

Increase 1 st: Two sc in same st
Increase 2 sts: Three sc in same st
Decrease 2 sts: *insert hook, yo, draw hook through st* three times. yo, draw yarn through all 4 loops.

The mittens are quite tight, so if you want them a little wider, I suggest you use a thicker yarn and/or hook.

4 ch to a ring. Do not join rounds

1. 12 sc in ring
2. and 3. Increase 2 st in each side (20 sts). If you want, put a contrasting colour thread in each side to mark
4. sc

It's almost November and as I have my fingerless mittens in my coat pocket (drafty Victorian building + lots of typing = desperately cold hands at this time of year!), I thought I'd jot down the pattern. I made it up as I went along and it's also the first time I've ever written out the pattern of something I've made, so poke me about any errors - I'm typing this out from memory!

These mittens were made out of hand spun merino wool on a 6mm hook. I have no idea about how much wool it took - the skein was approximately 130 yards long and I had enough wool left to make a long skinny scarf. And, of course, it depends on how big your hands are!

I have small hands, so the mittens measure approximately 7" (18cm) round and 4" (10cm) from knuckle to wrist. However, they're easily adjustable for all ages (men, women and children!), so go up a hook size or two or increase the stitches to suit your hand size. I tried them on as I went, so you may need to do a few more rows until you get to the thumb hole. They're also quite short (just to my wrist bone) so add on a few rows at the bottom if you want them longer, or add a cuff.

You could do a more fancy stitch, but I was aiming for a basic mitten so I could let the yarn speak for itself (it's a riot of beautiful colours). If your yarn is more plain, go wild with different stitches!

I crocheted in a round, with a slip stitch to join and no turning (except for one or two rows where I've indicated to turn).

Row 1 - Ch 21, join with a sl st. Ch 2.
Row 2 - Sc 20. Ch 2.

I've always had a thing for fingerless gloves and wrist warmers. When I was a little kid, I always wanted to cut the fingertips off my gloves so I could be like Bob Cratchit from Dickens's A Christmas Carol, but my mom wouldn't let me. Years later, I cut the fingertips off the first pair of gloves I bought in college. I've seen a lot of knitting patterns for wrist warmers, but I haven't seen many crocheted wrist warmers so I thought I'd make these!

Although this pattern is done in Artesano Alpaca, it is easily adaptable to other yarns and is a great way to use up scrap yarns and one-skein impulse purchases.

• MC:  1 skein Inca Cloud Artesano Alpaca (100% Alpaca, 131 yds/120m per 50g skein): color #002 (brown), or approximately 131 yards/120m of any DK weight alpaca
•  CC1 and CC2:  1/2 skein each of Inca Cloud Artesano Alpaca (100% Alpaca, 131 yds/120m per 50g skein): color #402 (olive green) and color #71 (burnt orange) or approximately 131 yards/120m of any DK weight alpaca or scrap yarn
• US F/5 (3.75 mm) hook
• Yarn needle

Wee Wristies: (will fit children and people with small hands, like me)
Normal Wristies: (will fit average-sized wrists)
Big Wristies: (for big people)

The pattern is written for Wee Wristies with changes for Normal Wristies and Big Wristies written in parentheses.

19 sts x 24 rounds of sc = 4" (10 cm)

Fpdc = front post double crochet

The Wrist-bit

With MC, ch 26 (30, 34), sl st in first ch to form ring.  

Round 1.  Ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc in each st around, sl st in 2nd ch of ch-2 to close ring. (26 [30, 34] dc)

Round 2.  Ch 1 (counts as first sc), *fpdc around next dc of previous row, sc in next st,*  rep from * to * around, ending fpdc around last dc of previous row,  sl st in first ch to close ring.  

Round 3. With CC1, ch 1 (counts as first sc), *fpdc around post of next fpdc, sc in next st,*  rep from * to * around, ending fpdc around post of next fpdc,  sl st in first ch to close ring.

Round 4.  Repeat Round 3 in MC.  

Round 5.  Repeat Round 3 in CC2.  

Round 6.  Repeat Round 3 in CC1.  

Round 7.  Repeat Round 3 in CC2.  

Round 8.  Repeat Round 3 in MC.  

Round 9.  Repeat Round 3 in CC1.  

Rounds 10-11.  Repeat Round 3 in MC.  

The Thumb-Hole-bit

This section is worked flat instead of in the round.  

Row 1.  Ch 1 (counts as sc), turn, sc in each st to end.  Do not join in first ch.  

Repeat Row 1 until work measures 2.5" (3", 3") or desired length.  

Top O' the Mitt

Round 1: Sl st in first ch of row to join, ch 1, sc in each st around.

Repeat Round 1 for 4 (5, 6) more rounds, ending with sc in first ch, sl st in following stitch.  Fasten off.  

Finishing

Using yarn  needle, weave in all ends.

I created this pattern when a girl at work asked me for some "fingerless arm warmers." "What??" I said "are you nuts..." But I happily took down the colors she wanted and this is the pattern I came up with. The ribbing will stay nice and snug around your arm; the rest is just cool!

• 4.5mm/7 hook
• Pink (MC) and red (CC) 4-ply yarn
• Yarn needle
• Stitch marker

Will fit teen to adult.

Begin

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