Every year since I learned to crochet, I've made at least one of these bags, and although I'm always promising myself it will be the last one I make, I end up giving it to one of my friends (usually my sister, who must have a huge collection by now) and crocheting another one the next time I'm about to go traveling.

There are two bags in this pattern, the shoulder sling and the passport bag. The shoulder sling is one of those toss-everything-in-and-rummage-for-it-later bags, while the passport bag is designed to hold, well, a passport, travel documents, postcards, writing utensils, and maybe something small, like a tube of lipstick or your keys.

For Shoulder Bag

• 420 m/460 yds of Patons 100% Cotton DK, or a similar yarn, such as Tivoli Cruise DK
• 3.75mm (US size F/5) hook
• 3.25mm (US D/3) hook for edging
• 12" x 24" material (to line the shoulder bag)
• Sewing needle
• Sewing thread

For Passport Bag

• DMC Cebelia Crochet Cotton, size 20 (370 m/405 yds per 50 g), 1 skein, black.  I know black isn't very summery, but I wanted to make a bag that would match my traveling clothes and since my traveling clothes consist of whatever I shoved into my bag at the last minute, black is a safe bet for me.  Feel free to use whatever colour is the safest bet for you. Any size 20 thread can be substituted.
• 1.50 mm (US size 8) steel hook or size needed to obtain gauge
• 280 – 450 seed beads (see Passport Bag instructions, below, for options)
• 5" x 14" material (to line the bag)
• cord for strap (optional)
• Sewing needle
• Sewing thread

Passport bag is 5" x 6.5"; shoulder bag is approximately 11" x 11" (will stretch if unlined). Strap length can be easily adjusted.

Shoulder Bag: 18 sts x 19 rows of sc = 4" x 4" (10cm x 10cm)

Passport Bag: 46 sts x 25 rows of dc = 4" x 4" (10cm x 10cm)

Shoulder Bag

This is a really simple pattern and can easily be adjusted to a different size, a different yarn, even a different stitch pattern. As long as you get the gist of how the bag works up, you should have no trouble making adjustments. For example, I made the bag in Debbie Bliss Cotton Denim Aran yarn and ended up with a 12" x 14" bag. The only bit of the pattern I had to adjust was the bottom - I decreased [sc2tog, sc 1] by 3 on each side instead of 5. I suggested cotton yarn for this bag because it does not stretch (the stitches themselves will give the bag a bit of stretch, however). If you do not want to make this bag using cotton, I would suggest lining the bag in a sturdy material and crocheting the finishing section in a cotton yarn. (I learned this the hard way a few years ago - the first shoulder bag I made was in a cotton/acrylic blend.  It stretched down to my knees and I was stuck carrying it around Seattle all afternoon!)

Body

Foundation Row:  Ch 100. Taking care not to twist chain, sl st in first ch to form ring.

Sc in the round, in a spiral, for a total of 50 rows or until work measures about 10". 

Bottom

[Instead of folding it in half and seaming it like a tote (and like the passport bag), this gives the bag a rounded oval-shaped bottom.]

Round 1.  *Sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next st,* rep from * to * 2 more times, sc in each of next 35 sts, rep from * to * 5 times, sc in each of next 35 sts, rep from * to * 2 times. (90 sts)

Round 2.  *Sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next st,* rep from * to * 2 more times, sc in each of next 30 sts, rep from * to * 5 times, sc in each of next 30 sts, rep from * to * 2 times. (80 sts)

Round 3.  *Sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next st,* rep from * to * 2 more times, sc in each of next 25 sts, rep from * to * 5 times, sc in each of next 25 sts, rep from * to * 2 times. (70 sts)

Round 4.  *Sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next st,* rep from * to * 2 more times, sc in each of next 20 sts, rep from * to * 5 times, sc in each of next 20 sts, rep from * to * 2 times. (60 sts)

Round 5.  *Sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next st,* rep from * to * 2 more times, sc in each of next 15 sts, rep from * to * 5 times, sc in each of next 15 sts, rep from * to * 2 times. (50 sts)

Seam: Turn inside out, seam bottom edges tog with sl st. I like the look of the blo sl st (where you sl st the inner loops tog), but use whatever you please. Fasten off, weave in ends. Turn right side out.

Strap

The strap is worked on the top of the bag, using the other side of the foundation chain.

Row 1. Lay bag flat to roughly gauge the “side edge”. Count 7 sts back from the left edge, attach yarn, ch 1, sc in same st as join and in each of the next 14 sts, ch 1, turn. (15 sts)

Row 2. Sc in each st across to last two sts, sc2tog over last 2 sts, ch 1, turn. (14 sts)

Rows 3-10: Repeat Row 2, ending Row 10 with 6 sts.

Row 11. Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn. (6 sts)

Repeat Row 11 112 more times (or more, if you prefer a longer strap). (Note: this strap will stretch a bit -- my finished strap measured 33" after wearing the bag around a few times.)

Row 12. Sc in each st across to last st, 2 sc in last stitch, ch 1, turn. (7 sts)

Rows 13-20. Repeat Row 12, ending Row 20 with 15 sts.

On opposite side of where the strap began, sl st edge to foundation chain leaving 35 foundation ch spaces between straps on both sides.

Note: there is no need to fasten off; begin finishing at this point.

Finishing

Sc into each of the 35 foundation ch sts between the strap ends. Using a smaller hook (this helps counter strap stretching), sc along edge of strap (working one sc for each row), sl st in 1st sc, fasten off, weave in ends.  Repeat for other side.

Passport Bag

This bag kills two birds with one stone as it's a good introduction to both thread crochet and crocheting with beads. If you've never done it before, crocheting with thread takes a little getting used to. My first attempts were a little wonky, but I got used to it with a little practice. This bag is done entirely in dc and believe me, after crocheting all 96 rows, you will have your tension and gauge down!

Bead crochet is easy -- to work the dcb stitch, start as you would a regular dc: yo, insert hook into stitch, yo, pull through, as you do the next yo, slip a bead onto the bit of thread that you're yarning-over (see Figure 1), and finish the stitch as you normally would (pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through 2 loops).

Figure 1

There are two ways to do make this bag, the hardcore bead way, where the entire bag is beaded, and the easy bead way, where only the front of the bag is beaded.  

Preparation: String 450 seed beads onto the thread for hardcore way or 280 beads for the easy way.

Body

Foundation: Ch 61, turn.

Row 1. Dc in fourth ch from hook, dc in each st across, turn. (59 sts)

Row 2. Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in each of next 4 sts, *dcb in next st, dc in each of next 5 sts,* repeat from * to * 8 more times, turn.

Row 3. Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in each st across, turn.

Row 4. Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in next st, *dcb in next st, dc in each of next 5 sts,* repeat from * to * 8 more times, dcb, dc in each of next 2 sts, turn.

Row 5. Repeat Row 3.

For hardcore:  Repeat rows (2-5) 24 times (for a total of 96 rows).

For easy: Repeat rows (2-5) 10 times, ending last repeat on Row 4 (for a total of 40 rows), repeat Row 3 for 45 rows, and repeat Rows (2-5) 3 times, ending last repeat on Row 4 (for a total of 12 rows).

Seaming

Fold at 42nd row from foundation chain, sc sides together, working 2 sc in each dc row, for 42 rows. The remaining material is the front flap. To finish the flap, sc along the sides, working 2 sc in each dc row. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Strap

The easiest way to put a strap on the bag is to sew a cord to the top corners of the bag. A more time-consuming way, however, is to crochet the strap:

Ch 5, turn.

Row 1. Sk 3 ch (counts as 1st dc), dc in each of next 2 sts, turn. (3 dc).

Row 2. Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in each of next 2 sts, turn.

Repeat Row 2 until strap is desired length. Note: unlike the shoulder bag, this strap should not stretch too much, as this is a much smaller bag and will not be carrying as heavy a load.)

Attach straps to top corners of the bag (wherever you like, I prefer to attach them on the foundation chain) with sc. Weave in ends.

Lining the bags

Lining the bags is easy if you know how to sew and easier still if you are armed with a sewing machine and know how to use it. Simply fold the lining material in half, sew up the sides, slip the lining into your bag, and sew the top of the lining to the top of the bag!

This bag was designed with two people in mind. My sister, who is about to add two boys to the family, and my mother, the eternal farmers market shopper. I loved the idea of the side pocket for a small water bottle or baby bottle. The wide body is a necessity for crusty French baguettes, flowers, market veggies, and diapers.

900 yds pure wool for the body and sides, 220 yds for the assembly and straps, and some scrap wool for the contrast stitching if desired. (Anne Frost's bag, pictured in gray, used Reynolds Lite Lopi - 6 skeins for the body, 3 skeins contrast color for the sides and straps, and 1 skein of another contrast color for stitching)

Red/orange sample used:

• Patons Classic Wool (100% Pure Virgin Wool/100 g/3.5 oz/223 yds worsted weight) MC: 4 skeins Paprika
• Cascade 220 (100% Wool/100 g/3.5 oz/220 yds worsted weight): CC 1 skein 9404 red
• 1-2 ozs wool in shades of theme color for stitching
• size I (5.5mm) hook
• optional size J (6mm) hook for foundation chain on strap, see note
• Thick yarn needle for weaving ends, attaching straps, and embellishments.

Before felting = 24”w x 15”l

After felting = 16”w x 11”l

5”x5” = 15 sts x 12 rows

• After making the bag I realized my sister would need two pockets for the twins' bottles. You should have enough yarn to make both sides with pockets. To be sure, simply make up the sides first, following pocket side directions, then make up the body of the bag.
• When making up the straps, it’s a good idea to use a “J” hook to make the foundation chain then switch to the smaller hook for the remaining rows. During the felting process, the foundation chain will typically end up tighter than the last row.
• Finally, the pattern was designed with the sides of the bag 1” below the top of the main body. If you want the sides to be even with the top, simply make the sides 15” and 24” and attach them level to the top of the bag. Felting is more art than science, so some degree of variance in measurements can be expected.

Begin Side 1

With MC, ch 18

R1 Hdc in 3 rd ch from hook, hdc in each st across. Ch 2, turn.

R2 Hdc in first st and each st across. Ch 2, turn. – 17 hdc

Repeat row 2 for 14”. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Side 2 – pocket

With MC, ch 18

R1 Hdc in 3 rd ch from hook, hdc in each st across. Ch 2, turn.

R2 Hdc in first st and each st across. Ch 2, turn. – 17 hdc

Repeat row 2 for 23”. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Body

With MC, chain 73

R1 Hdc in 3 rd ch from hook, hdc in each st across. Ch 2, turn.

R2 Hdc in first st and each st across. Ch 2, turn. – 72 hdc

Repeat row 2 for 35”. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Fold top 1” of bag down and tack in place along bottom edge. This will give added strength to the bag.

To assemble bag

Fold Side 2 to form pocket. Once folded this side should be the same size as the other side, about 14”. With WS facing each other, pin side 2 to bag beginning 1” below top. With contrast color, and beginning at the top of the bag, work a row of sc to attach side, working through all layers. Work one row of sl st back around. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Pin and attach other side in the same manner. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Straps – Make 2

With cc, ch 126

R1 Hdc in 3 rd ch from hook, hdc in each st across. Ch 2, turn.

R2-4 Hdc in first st and each st across. Ch 2, turn. – 125 hdc

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

To felt

Throw bag and straps into a zippered pillowcase, with a pair of jeans or old shoes, and about ¼ cup of baking soda OR some dish detergent. Wash on hot/cold setting. Do not let the wash go to spin cycle, which could cause the bag to stretch out of shape. Check bag and straps after each cycle. If neede, reshape strap, by pulling, to keep it from curling and felting into itself. Swipe your hand through the pocket to make sure there is no felting to the body of the bag. Continue cycles until bag measures 16”w x 11” l. Sample took 2 cycles. Remove from wash and roll in a towel to remove excess water. Bag may look distorted. Gently, but firmly, reshape bag and straps. If needed, bag may be placed in the dryer for a little bit. Place bag out to dry. Insert a form to help bag keep its shape. I used a plastic drawer from my craft cart.

Straps

After bag is dry, attach handles using running stitch. Place each strap 4” from the top of the bag and 4” in from the side. For extra security, tack down the inside of the handles where they join to the top of the bag.

You can use any embellishment you wish. I intended to make this flower by cutting my felted swatches, in various colors, to the template and sewing them together. Instead, I found a cheap vinyl remnant at my local fabric store. I cut the vinyl to the template and sewed them into place using a thick yarn needle and a little force.

To make flower in the sample, you just need some fabric remnant or felted swatches and some scrap yarn.

Crocheted button center

Round 1: Ch 2. Place 10 sc in 1 st ch and join to beginning of round with sl st.

Round 2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc in each st around and join with sl st.

Round 3: Ch 1. Rev sc around and join. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Trace and cut flower templates (click thumbnail at right for full-size image). Layer flower with crocheted, or ready made, button on top. Sew through all layers with thick yarn needle and attach to bag like a button.

After a nice, relaxing summer and autumn, we are now heading towards winter. But winter garments and accessories do not need to come in boring and dull dark colours.

So with that in mind, I came up with the design for the Rose set, which includes a handbag, a headband and a matching rose to pin on your jacket. It all comes down to the accessories, right?

And since I’m also such a pink person, I couldn’t think of a better colour than pink for the set. This way you will certainly be seen.

The items in the Rose set are all felted, which makes the headband nice and warm, and it also gives the handbag sturdiness so it does not need to be lined.

The set is crocheted with bulky weight wool, so the items are fast projects to make.

• Cortina - Bulky weight wool (50g/55m or 1.8 oz/55yds): 4 skeins (3 skeins for the handbag & 1 skein for the headband)
• Size 7.0mm (K) hook
• Yarn needle

Before felting:

Handbag: 31.5 x 28 cm (12.4 x 11 in)

Headband: 10 x 50 cm ( 4 x 1.7 in) without tassels; tassel 32 cm (12.6 in).

After felting:

Handbag: 24.5 x 26 cm (9.6 x 10.2 in)

Headband: 8 x 47 cm (3.1 x 18.5 in); tassels 24 cm (9.5 ins)

Rose: 8 cm across (3.1 in)

Before felting: 10 dc x 6 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 in)

After felting: 13 dc x 6.5 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 in)

• The yarn needs to be 100% wool in order for the felting process to succeed.
• The items can be stretched and formed into correct shaping and sizes when wet.

Rose (make 5 alike)

Ch 4, sl st in first ch to create ring.

Round 1: *Ch 3, 1 sc.* Rep *-* 5 times –- 6 bows.

Round 2: Work in each bow: *1 sc, 3 dc, 1 sc*. Join to frst sc with a sl st. Cut thread, weave in ends. Attach to a pin, to be worn on a jacket.

Handbag

Front

Ch 32.

Row 1: Work 1 dc in the 4th ch from the hook and in each ch across – 30 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 2: Work dc in each st across. Ch 3, turn.

Row 3 - 12: Rep row 2.

Row 13: Work dc in each of first 2 sts, dc2tog, *dc in each of next 2 sts, dc2tog.* Rep *-* across, ending row with dc in each of last 2 sts –- 23 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Rows 14-16: Work dc in each st across. Ch 3, turn.

Row 17: Make opening for hand. Work dc in each of first 6 sts, ch 11 loosely, skip 11 sts before working dc in last 6 sts. Ch 3, turn.

Row 18: Work dc in each of first 6 sts, work 11 dc in ch-11 space, work dc in each of last 6 sts. Ch 3, turn.

Rows 19-21: Work dc in each st across. Ch 3, turn.

Cut thread, weave in ends.

Back

Work same as for front.

Assemble the handbag:

Sew sides and bottom of front and back pieces together, with their right sides facing each other. Turn right side out. Crochet 3 roses to be sewn on the front side. The roses can be sewn on both before and after the felting process. However, keep in mind that the roses will shrink, so the ‘placement’ of the roses may alter after the handbag has been felted if they are sewn on beforehand. I sewed on the rose after the felting on the handbag that is displayed in the picture.

Headband

Ch 43 to make a tassel.

Row 1: Work 2 dc in the 3rd ch from the hook – 3 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 2: Work 2 dc in the first st, dc in next st, 2 dc in the last st – 5 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 3: Work 2 dc in the first st, dc in each of next 3 sts, 2 dc in the last st – 7 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 4: Work 2 dc in the first st, dc in each of next 5 sts, 2 dc in the last st – 9 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 5: Work dc in each st across. Ch 3, turn.

Row 6: Work dc in each of first 4 sts, 2 dc in the next st, dc in each of last 4 sts – 10 dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 7-25: Work dc in each st across. Ch 3, turn.

Row 26: Work dc in each of first 4 sts, dc2tog, dc. Ch 3, turn.

Row 27: Ch 2. Work dc2tog, dc in each of next 5 sts across, dc2tog over last 2 sts – 7 dc.

Continue to dec 2 dc on each row (one at each end of the row) until there are only 3 dc left. Work 3 dc together. Ch 40 to make another tassel. Cut thread, weave in ends.

Felting

Put all items through a hot machine wash to shrink and felt.

Tapestry crochet is similar to regular crochet, except that more than one yarn is used at the same time to create a colorful fabric. Actually, one or more yarns are carried while another yarn is single crocheted. The finished pieces look woven instead of crocheted. Tapestry crochet has been popular for a long time in several countries. Mayan men in Guatemala tapestry crochet shoulder bags with cotton thread or wool yarn. In other parts of the world, tapestry crochet is used to make yarmulkes and hats.

This purse begins at the bottom, then spirals upwards to the strap. The horse is 22 stitches wide. It is possible to make a variety of purse sizes by increasing or decreasing the length of the foundation chain by eleven stitches. Feel free to substitute different colors or another motif -- just be sure that the total number of stitches on the sides of the purse is a multiple of the number of stitches in your motif.

• Size 3 Senso Wool Cotton thread by DMC (100 yds per 29g / 91m – 1.02 oz); four balls of Bone (1302), 3 balls of Brown (1309), and 1 ball of Maroon (1308); (www.dmc-usa.com)
• 2.75mm (size 1) steel crochet hook, or the size that will give an acceptable gauge
• 1 1/4” diameter decorative button
• Stitch counter or marker
• Needle

Without the strap: 10 1/2” wide by 9 1/2” high

9 stitches equals 1 inch; 8 rows equals 1 inch

All stitches are single crochet stitches unless otherwise indicated.

Begin

Round 1: Starting with the brown thread, make a slip knot (leaving a ten-inch tail), th

Being a bag-obsessed girl, I’ve always wanted to try crocheting a bag with hemp yarn.  It’s not only a durable fiber but it comes in way cute colors. On a recent trip to a not-so-local yarn store I found some hemp yarn that was half hemp and half wool. It looked perfect for playing with. I tried to conceive of a brilliant design on which I could test the yarn, but I had nothing.

One day, the zipper on my wallet broke. I needed a replacement quick. With Valentine’s Day looming ahead I worked up a heart design and grabbed the hemp. You could say that for all my grand intentions the conception of this pouch was a little half-hearted.

• Hemp Yarn, (55% Hemp, 45% Wool, 200 yds/skein) 1 skein Black, 1 skein Red
• Size F/3.75 mm hook
• Small yarn needle
• Zipper

5" wide x 3.5" high

3.5 stitches and 4 rows = 1 inch

When changing colors, always change the yarn when there are still two loops of the last single crochet stitch on the hook. Finish the last yarn over with the new color.

Always pick up the new color and drop the old color on the wrong side of the fabric.

Use one turning chain at the end of each row. The turning chain does not count as a stitch.

Please meet Miss Pink (the backpack) and Mr Bajs (the coin purse). I came up with the idea for these two designs at this year’s Midsummer party.

Celebrating Midsummer is an old Swedish tradition, and as always we celebrated the day with our friends and their families.

One of the kids at the party would talk of nothing else but Pee Pee and Poo Poo - all day long. I thought that it was quite funny at first, and being a mother to a 2-year-old daughter, I knew that it was a topic that would soon arise at our house as well. So I ended up designing the backpack Miss Pink, and the coin purse Mr Bajs, which are Swedish for Pee Pee and Poo Poo.

Miss Pink and Mr Bajs are both easy and fast projects to make, and can be completed in just a couple of evenings. They can also be made up as soft toys if you fill them with stuffing instead of making them up as the backpack and coin purse. I’m sure your little ones will love their new friends Miss Pink and Mr Bajs, as my daughter did when she got them.

• Backpack: 20 x 24 cm (8” x 9.5 ”)
• Backpack strap: 4 x 40 cm ( 1.5 ” x 16”) – to fit a small child
• Coin purse: 9 cm ( 3.5 ”)

20 sc x 22 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)

US pattern conventions used:
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
rep – repeat
dc – double crochet

A fresh take on brown bagging it to school or work! This bag works up quickly and easily and is fun to use. It’s made in pieces, which are then joined with sc seams that add a sporty look.

12 ½ inches tall x 8 ½ inches wide x 4 inches deep

20 rows and 17 stitches in single crochet = 4 inches (10 cm.)

US Pattern notations used
Ch = chain stitch
Sc = single crochet
St(s) = stitch (es)
Sl st = slip stitch

This purse uses a second variation of the Spike Stitch... one that mirrors back on itself to create soft waves. However, when those soft waves are combined with the metallic contrast of black and silver Crystal Palace Soiree, they create a fashion forward barrel clutch swank enough for New Years.

Check out the Spike Stitch Introduction if you'd like more information before diving into this advanced pattern.

• 140 yards - color A, DK to Worsted Weight yarn
  (Shown in CrystalPalace Soiree (60% polyester, 40% polyamide, 160 yds per 50 g) color #3690 Antique Silver)
• 120 yards - color B, DK to Worsted Weight yarn
  (Shown in CrystalPalace Soiree (60% polyester, 40% polyamide, 160 yds per 50 g) color #3621 Silver)
• 140 yards - color A, metallic thread
  (Shown in Sulky Sliver Metallic, color #8051 Black)
• 120 yards - color B, metallic thread
  (Shown in Sulky Sliver Metallic, color #8001 Silver)
• 4 - 1" shank buttons
• 1/3 yd - fabric for lining
• 1/3 yd - batting
• Thread to match fabric
• Sewing needle
• Darning needle
• US-G hook (4.00mm) or US-G (4.00mm) afghan hook
• US-H hook (5.00mm)

Completed dimensions, as shown, are 10.5" wide by 2.5" tall.

Gauge Swatch
Work pattern and measure:

16 stitches (2 repeats of pattern) = 4"

28 rows = 4"

US Pattern notations used throughout
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Sl st – slip stitch
TSS – tunisian simple stitch, for more information, see tutorial in April/May ’05 issue.

Special note: when making the TSS buttonhole in this project, you are directed to add 2 chains in the middle of the row. For the chains, do not insert hook into the fabric on the forward row, simply yarn over two times, and then continue TSS to the end. Work return row as normal, treating the yarn over as a loop on the hook.

Crochet this colorful coin purse for your favorite little miss! Bead crocheted purse and strap, made in one piece with tubular construction and beaded single crochet stitch.

• Size 3/2 perle cotton yarn, 100yds
• Size D, E or F hook (or size that gives you the correct gauge)
• 1 beading needle
• One decorative button

4” X 4 ¼” with a 30” strap

37 beads per sq. inch
70 inches yarn per sq. inch

US Pattern Notation Used
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
PM = place marker
Beaded chain: Draw bead up tight to work, make a chain
Beaded slip stitch (bss): Insert hook in st, slide a bead up close, yo and pull though st. and loop on hook.
Beaded single crochet (bsc):
Insert crochet hook into top of stitch in previous row, yarn over and draw loop through; slide the bead up to the stitch being worked, yarn over and draw loop through both stitches on hook so that the bead is anchored above the stitch of the previous row.
Front bead single crochet, aka Reverse Bead Single Crochet (fbsc): (Beads that you have crocheted in on the previous row will now be facing you.) Push bead up as close to the hook as you can get it, hold on to bead with your thumb, insert hook OVER thread and into sc, thread over, (keep holding the bead), pull through, thread over pull through the two loops on hook. Bead should be in the front. Keep thread tension a little tight so the bead, this will force the bead to stay in place.

I’ve dreamed of this bag for a couple of years. Every once in a while I would pick up some yarn and give it a try, but it just wouldn’t come out right. Then, one very gray, very rainy Seattle morning I picked up a chunky, bright fuchsia yarn and started again. As I dreamed of spring and all that’s blooming the bag made itself.

This bag is pretty versatile in design. If you want a slightly less blooming bag, then fasten off your petals after only a couple of rows. If you want fewer layers of petals, just fasten off and pick up the yarn after a round or two and start the petals again. It can be made into a larger bag or a smaller one like a coin purse. You can even do petals on both sides of the bag for an exploding blooms bag, just work the back of the bag as you do for the front. A lining can be added, but since I’m slightly intimidated by sewing I like the option of not having to line. So using the chunky/bulky yarn and medium sized hook makes it sturdy enough to keep from stretching.

• About 165 yards chunky or bulky weight yarn. (Sample used Bernat Softee Chunky (68 yards/1.34 oz/50g) in Hot Fuschia.)
• Size J/6mm hook (if you want a sturdier or bulkier bag try a smaller hook)
• Stitch marker
• Yarn needle for weaving ends
• Two acrylic ring handles

There is really no gauge as the bag can be done in any size. Using a smaller hook would make the bag smaller and more sturdy; using a larger hook or a worsted weight yarn would give it more drape, and you would probably need to have a lining added to counter any stretching.

Back of bag is done in both loops.

The entire body of the bag is made as a spiral, so you will not join to the beginning of the round. Your first stitch will always be where the marker is. You will need to place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round. You will always end each round with 2 hdc in the last stitch. When doing a two-color bag, work the back loop only rounds in the color of the flower and work the remaining rounds and back in the second color.

US pattern notations used
Ch = chain
St = stitch
Sl st = slip stitch
Sc = single crochet
Hdc = half double crochet