I got tired of my store bought pencil cases breaking, and didn't have the money to keep replacing them, so I decided to make my own pencil case. It's rather easy to make, but it requires some sewing skills. The five pieces are made separately and then crocheted together at the edges. You may want to crochet the top edges shut too. I didn't, but I would advise that you do if you're making it for younger children as the pencils can fall out the ends if you aren't too careful.

One skien of worsted weight cotton yarn. I used Bernat Handicrafter cotton.
Size 7 (4.5mm) hook
8 inch (20 cm) zipper
Piece of cotton fabric
Needle and thread
Sewing machine (optional)

7.5" X 3.5" X 2.5" or 19 cm X 9 cm X 6 cm

5 stitches and 6 rows per inch.

Piece A

Chain 35
Row 1- Sc in second chain from hook. Sc in each chain after. Turn.
Row 2- Sc in each stitch to end. Turn.
Repeat row 2 until work measures 4" (10 cm). Fasten off.

Piece B

Chain 10
Row 1- Sc in second chain from hook. Sc in each chain after. Turn.
Row 2- Sc in each stitch to end. Turn.
Repeat row 2 until work measures 3" (7.5 cm). Fasten off.

Piece C

Chain 35
Row 1- Sc in second chain from hook. Sc in each chain after. Turn.
Row 2- Sc in each stitch to end. Turn.
Repeat row until work measures 2.5" (6.5 cm). Fasten off.

Lining

The lining isn't necessary, but I would recommend making it.

Fold the piece of fabric in half and sew along the sides. Make a rolled hem along the top. Fold the corner down then sew it across 1 1/4" from the point.

Assembly

Slip stitch the pieces together as shown.
Sew the lining inside the case with seams facing down (so that the right side is the side you see).
Sew the zipper on to the top flaps.

Now go show it off to all your friends and family. :)

A reuse cotton yarn for a makeup purse.
I had a few yarn with mingled colors (blue, yellow, pink and green).
Started by filling the first plastic rings with 30 sc each, and linked them all.
Next I did 6 chains and inserted the hook under any chain on the first plastic ring and did a slip stitch; then 10 chains until the next ring, until the last ring. After the slip stitch on the last ring, I did 6 chains.
On the next rows, I worked in dc, and some rows in cross dc.

Cotton yarn nº12
crochet hook (3 mm)
6 plastic rings with 2 cm diameter

width - 11 cm (4.3")
height - 8 cm (3.15")(closed) 20 cm (7.87")(opened)

12 sts x 9 rows of dc = 1.57" (4 cm)

Ribbed Sweater Hobo/Tote

I recently found an amazing bag picture on the web and it turned out the instructions were only in an obscure japanese mag that would have cost me an arm and a leg to order (not to mention... it's in japanese). Inspired, I decided to improvise a similar one that looks like a nice ribbed sweater.

Keep in mind that this project requires some (simple but unusual) assembly and that since it was improvised, it's not uber-precise. But it works! And it is a pretty forgiving design.

One skein of Bernat Super Value (7 oz) or any other worsted weight yarn
4mm hook - a hook one size smaller than the recommended size.

Fabric for lining, sewing supplies etc. *Please note that the instructions for the lining are not included! Many tutorials are available on the web, though :)

Crocheted in Bernat Super Value, the bag should measure approx. 15 inches wide and 12 inches high. Roomy!

Gauge is not critical for this project.

scblo - single crochet in back loop only
scblo2tog - scblo decrease. Insert hook in back loop of the first stitch, pull yarn, insert hook in back loop of 2nd stitch, pull yarn (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops.

For the decorative touches, slip stitch through fabric + bobbles (instructions are easy to find)

Body

Row 1: Ch 23, ch 1, turn

Row 2: sc in each ch across, ch 1, turn

Rows (3-8): 2 scblo in 1st st, scblo in next 5 st, 2 scblo in following stitch… continue increasing every 5 stitches for the rest of the rows, starting each new row the same way (with 2 scblo in the first stitch, then do 5 scblos etc). * These rows do not end evenly: if you have room for another double do it, if not simply continue with the next row.*Ch1, turn

Rows (9-12): scblo in each st across, ch1, turn

Row 13: Repeat row 3 technique, increasing every 5 stitches

Rows (14-15): scblo in each st across, ch1, turn

Row 16: Repeat row 3 technique, increasing every 5 stitches

Rows (17-20): scblo in each st across, ch1, turn

Row 21: Repeat row 3 technique, increasing every 5 stitches

Rows (22-40): scblo in each st across, ch1, turn
*This forms the first half and center of the bag’s body. Now we mirror our increase rows with decreases to get a symmetrical bag

Row 41: scblo2tog, scblo in next 5 st, scblo2tog… *the same principle as for row 3 applies here. Decrease every 5 st, and if the row ends unvevenly, either decrease if you have room, or don’t.

Rows (42-45): scblo in each st across, ch1, turn

Row 46: Repeat row 41 technique, decreasing every 5 st

Rows (47-48): scblo in each st across, ch1, turn
Row 49: Repeat row 41 technique, decreasing every 5 st

Rows (50-53): scblo in each st across, ch1, turn

Rows (54-59): Repeat row 41 technique, decreasing every 5 st.

Row 60 (*and potentially 61): Check to make sure you end-up with 23 st (one more or less won’t show). Work enough decreases to get that number (you may also add another row if you wish. This design is pretty forgiving.

Fasten off, weave in ends

The area directly underneath the handles (the two dc rows that would be below your armpit when wearing the bag):

Keeping in mind that the ribbing should be vertical, fold the bag the way it would be when finished and locate the center by counting the ribs from the edges.

From that center, use stitch markers to mark an area of 20 stitches ( 10 on each side of the center), in wich you will make:

----

Row 1: Join yarn, 20 sl st in center of bag’s body, ch 2, turn *Note that even though the next row is a dc row, I only chain 2)

Row 2: dc across. Ch 2, Turn.

Row 3: dc across, Fasten off

----

Rows 4-5-6: Mirror this on the other side of the bag, repeating rows 1-2-3

The all-around handles

With the bag folded and the ribs vertical, locate the place where you would attach the side points of the bag, basically the ends of the 1st and last rows of the body (this makes a round hole on each side).

Join these points together with the yarn and then start making sc all around the edge of the bag.
When you reach the top of the dc rows, ch 56 (handle1) and being careful not to twist the chain, continue sc along the other side, joining the points of the second side when you reach them.When you reach the top of the back of the bag, ch 56 (handle 2) and continue sc until you are back where you started.

Continue sc around for 2 more rows and when you are back where you started, sl st and fasten off. Weave in ends.

The hole plugs

The bag is almost complete but there are holes at each end. You can either sew them shut with yarn or (and I prefer this technique because it’s prettier), you can join the yarn at the top of the hole and crochet in spiral, making decreases every 3 st, then 2, etc, until the hole closes.
Another way to go about it would be to crochet in the round 2 discs that you can then attach there.

Decorative touches

I made the horizontal bar with 3 rows of slip stitches through the fabric, and then made two bobbles and attached them on each side. (You can easily find these techniques on the web if you don’t know them already)

I added a cotton lining with a few pockets: you can also find instructions for this easily on the web. This bag REALLY benefits from a lining, else it will stretch and take the shape of every object you put inside. I was surprised myself at how a simple lining solves this problem. Just watch out for the measurements: keep the opening tight enough to fit the fabric but lose enough to accommodate the stretch of the bag. Make sure you have a 3-dimentional box-type bottom so you have room to fill your bag!

Enjoy this unusual pattern!

Chain 52 (Do not count the first chain pull tight for knot). Go through each loop both side in (double crochet-Yarn over,go through loops,yarn over, go through 2loops then 2 loops.) Add 2 stitches on end of each side. Row 2-26 keep going around until you reach how tall you want it.
Hsndle- go over 3 from side (dc)6 chain 1, repeat until handle is long enough for shoulder. (MAKE SURE IT DOES NOT TURN) connect to the other side.

-2 skiens of Bernat Softee Chunky (Demin Ombre)
-G crochet hook

Mine was 13x11inch with out strap.

Doen't matter.:o)

Note: For other images please go to:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/28478581@N07/

Additional Options:
Try this pattern in different colors!
Beaded trim or your favorite decorative pins or appliques found at most craft stores.

--Lion Brand Yarn—Lion Suede (3 oz/122 yds/85g per ball)
--2 balls #126 (coffee)
--Size J10/6mm or size needed to obtain gauge
--Tapestry Needle
--Purse Handles (found at most craft stores)
--Floral Pin or Appliqué (found at most craft stores)
--Matching Accented Scarf (found at most clothing stores)

Body Length = 7 inches
Body Length with Overturned Edging = 9 inches
Base Length = 8 inches

14 sc = 4 inches; 8 sc rows = 2.5 inches

Everyday Handbag with Fashion Applique and Scarf

Option: A different variation on metallic can be achieved by using Patons Brilliant Yarns Line with the same hook size listed in the pattern.

Bottom
Rnd 1 Ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook to form a ring
Rnd 2 Ch 1, sc in ring, 5 more sc in ring, join to the first sc made [6 sc]
Rnd 3 Ch 1, sc in same stitch, another sc in same stitch, 2 sc in each stitch around, join to the first sc made[12 sc]
Rnd 4 Ch 1, 2 sc in same stitch, sc in next sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made [18 sc]
Rnd 5 Ch 1, 2 sc in same stitch, sc in next 2 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made [24 sc]
Rnd 6 Ch 1, 2 sc in same stitch, sc in next 3 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made [30 sc]
Rnd 7 Ch 1, 2 sc in same stitch, sc in next 4 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made [36 sc]
Rnd 8 Ch 1, 2 sc in same stitch, sc in next 5 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 5 sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made [42 sc]
Rnd 9 Ch 1, 2 sc in same stitch, sc in next 6 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made [48 sc]
Rnd 10 Ch 1, 2 sc in same stitch, sc in next 7 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 7 sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made [54 sc]
Rnd 11 Ch 1, 2 sc in same stitch, sc in next 8 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made [60 sc]
Rnd 12 Ch 1, 2 sc in same stitch, sc in next 9 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 9 sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made [66 sc]
Rnd 13 Ch 1, 2 sc in same stitch, sc in next 10 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 10 sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made [72 sc]
Rnd 14 Ch 1, 2 sc in same stitch, sc in next 11 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 11 sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made [78 sc]
Rnd 15 Ch 1, 2 sc in same stitch, sc in next 12 sc, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 12 sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made [84 sc]

Body
Rnd 16-–40 Ch 1, sc in each sc around, join to the first sc made
Rnd 41 Ch 1, sc in front loop of same stitch, sc in each front loop around, join to the first sc made
Rnd 42--45 Ch 1, sc in each sc around, join to the first sc made
Rnd 46 Ch 1, sc in same stitch, sc in the next 11 sc, *decrease over the next 2 sc, sc in the next 12 sc*, repeat from * to *, join to the first sc made
Rnd 47 Ch 1, sc in same stitch, sc in each sc around, join to the first sc made
fasten off

Handle Straps--Make 4
Row 1 Ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each sc across, turn

Attaching Handles
Fold bag in half, laying flat measure sides and center handles, place markers on each side to where handles would be attached. Repeat for the opposite side.

Using a dress pin, place one end of handle strap 1 on inner lining, 1/2 inches below the top opening of bag. Fold the handle strap through the purse metal loop and attach another pin to hold handle in place. Repeat for each side of handle. Sew the handle straps in place by using a tapestry needle and yarn.

Finishing
Weave in ends using a tapestry needle.

Care Instructions
Hand wash only
Roll in a towel and let air dry
Do not iron

Some wives make hats, sweaters, or scarves for their husbands, but I married a percussionist. Here is my first original design for a mallet bag. It's a wrap that rolls up and slides into a bag for easy transportation. When performing, the percussionist can roll out the wrap across a table or a couple of music stands, then when s/he picks up or puts down a pair of mallets, the wrap muffles any sound.

Pretty much any yarn will do – scraps would be ideal. I used Red Heart Super Saver that happened to be left over from other projects... I always buy extra in anticipation of returning some. However, my puppy got into my stash, chewed up and spat out the labels and mangled the balls, rendering them unreturnable!

I used 7 oz. (198 g), approx 364 yd (333 m) for the mallet wrap. The bag also required 7 oz. (198 g), approx 364 yd (333 m).

Crochet hook size H/8 – 5.00 mm (or size needed to obtain gauge)

Buttons: 2cm (3/4 in) for the wrap and optional 1.5 cm (5/8 in) for the bag

Wrap measures approximately 46 cm x 114 cm (18 in x 45 in). Carrying bag has a diameter of 18 cm (7 in) and a height of 48 cm (19 in).

6 sts & 5 rows in hdc = approx. 5 cm (2 in)… Gauge is not terribly important, but the bag will need to be wide enough to accommodate the length of the mallets.

This bag holds up to 22 pairs of marimba, xylophone, or vibraphone mallets. The pattern should be easy to adjust for a different number of pairs – simply add (or subtract) 12 stitches from the beginning chain for each 1 – 2 pairs of mallets you wish to add (or subtract). Mallets can be inserted individually or in pairs through the holders.

Note: Beginning ch. 2 counts as hdc throughout.

This pattern has not yet been tested, so if anyone else out there needs a mallet bag, please let me know how you get on with this!

Mallet Wrap
Row 1: Chain 148. Hdc in 3rd ch and every ch across. 147 sts. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1st hdc). Hdc in every st across. Turn.
Rows 3 – 12: Repeat row 2. Work should measure approx. 12 cm (4.5 inches).
Row 13: Ch 2. Hdc in next 14 sts. *Ch 2, skip next 2 hdc; hdc in next 10 hdc; Repeat from * across.
Rows 14 – 16: Repeat row 2.
Row 17: Ch. 2. Hdc in next 14 sts. **Ch 2, skip next 2 hdc; hdc in next 3 sts; ch 2, skip next 2 sts; hdc in next 5 sts. Repeat from ** across.
Row 18 – 20: Repeat row 2.
Row 21: Ch. 2. Hdc in next 19 sts. *Ch 2, skip next 2 hdc; hdc in next 10 hdc; Repeat from * across, ending with 1 hdc in each of last 5 sts.
Rows 22 – 30: Repeat row 2.
Rows 31 – 38: Repeat rows 13 – 20.
Rows 39 – 50: Repeat row 2.
Stitch a row of sc evenly around the entire edge. Sl st to join, then sl st. in each sc around. Finish off.
Add a closure strap – the length and width may vary depending on your preferences and the size of button you have lying around. Here is how I made mine:
Row 1: Ch 7. Turn. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn.
Rows 2 - 18: Ch. 1. Sc in each sc across. Turn.
Row 19: Ch. 1. Sc in next 2 sc. Ch 2, skip 2 sc. Sc in next 2 sc. Turn. (first buttonhole made)
Rows 20 – 25: Ch. 1. Sc. in each sc across. Turn.
Row 26: Repeat row 19.
Repeat rows 20 – 26 until you have made the desired number of buttonholes (so the bag can be closed tightly whether it is full, partially full, or almost empty).
Last row: Ch 1. Sc in each sc across. Finish off.
Finishing:
Sew strap about midway down the short edge that has the larger space before the mallet holes begin. Sew a button on to the centre of the strap near where it is joined to the bag.
Fill the bag with mallets and roll it up. Fold the strap back and fasten the last buttonhole to the button. Use a contrasting piece of yarn to mark the spot where the fold occurs. You need to attach one more piece, which the closure strap will pass under before folding back and attaching to the button.
To make this last piece (remember to adjust if you have made a wider closure strap than that listed): Ch 10. Turn. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn. *Ch. 1, sc in each ch across. Turn. Repeat from * until your piece is the desired width (I used 4 rows). Attach this last piece at the place you marked, making sure the closure strap can pass underneath it.

Carrying Bag
Bottom:
Rnd 1: Form a ring (either chain 4 and join with a slip stitch, or use the Magic Adjustable Ring); ch 2, 11 hdc in ring, join with sl st in the top of the ch 2.
Rnd 2: ch 2 (still counts as first hdc), hdc in same st as ch 2, 2 hdc in each hdc around, join with sl st.
Rnd 3: ch 2, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in next hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, repeat from * around, join with sl st
Rnd 4: ch 2, hdc in next st, *2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 2 hdc, repeat from * around, join with sl st
Rnd 5: ch 2, hdc in next 2 st, *2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 3 hdc, repeat from * around, join with sl st
Rnd 6: ch 2, hdc in next 3 st, *2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 4 hdc, repeat from * around, join with sl st
Rnd 7: ch 2, hdc in next 4 st, *2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 5 hdc, repeat from * around, join with sl st
Rnd 8: ch 2, hdc in next 5 st, *2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 6 hdc, repeat from * around, join with sl st
At this point, check the diameter of your circle with the diameter of a full, rolled up wrap. If it appears that the circle is large enough, begin crocheting the sides. If the circle needs to be a little larger, continue working the bottom in the established pattern before moving on to the sides.
Sides:
Rnd 1: ch 2 (still counts as first hdc); hdc in back loop only of each stitch around. Join with sl st to beginning chain.
Rnds 2 - 41: ch 2 to begin each round, then either hdc in each st around and join with sl st, or ch 1, *skip next st, hdc in next st, repeat from * around and join with sl st. Choose your own system! If you wish to attach a button or buttons to the top of the bag ensure that you provide a space for it in one of the rows near the top of the bag.
Final rnd: ch 2, hdc in each st around, join with sl st.
Carrying strap:
Row 1: Ch 2, hdc in next 5 sts, turn.
Row 2 - 48: Ch 2, hdc in next 5 sts.
To attach carrying strap, sl st through the last row of the carrying strap and the unworked loops of Rnd 1 of the sides of your bag. Make sure your strap is straight and takes the shortest path from top to bottom of the bag before attaching.
Sew in all loose ends. If desired, attach a button or two to the top of the bag.

I wrote this pattern when I wanted a new bag for the fall season, but didn't want to buy new yarn just to make it! This pattern uses small amounts of yarn, enabling me to use up some of my copious stash.

You may have originally seen this pattern on Crochetville.org, but it's no longer listed there.

Desired colors of worsted weight, great for using up scrap yarn!
size F hook
Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
4 stitch markers or yarn or what ever you chose to mark stitches.

appox. 8 1/2 inches tall by 12 inches wide

not important

Abbreviations Used:

sc = single crochet
ch = chain
st = stitch
sk = skip
FLO = front loop only
sl st = slip stitch
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dec = decrease
repeat from * to * = repeat the instructions between the *'s for the remaining stitches of the row.
rsc = reverse single crochet

Special stitches used:
Alternative reverse single crochet or Alternative rsc = (I read about this method on the Crochet Partners group, and love it as an alternative to reverse single crochet, which can be difficult to master at times.) Insert hook into stitch as if you were doing a regular single crochet, yarn over and draw through, with the two loops on the hook, rotate the whole hook 360 degrees, yarn over and draw through.

Ch 31, sc in second ch from hook, and in each ch across. Ch 1, turn. (30 sc)
Row 1: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (30 sc)
Row 2 - 6: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn. (30 sc)
Row 7: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, DO NOT TURN
Row 8: Begin working across the ends of the rows, *2 sc in the end of the row you just finished, sc in each row, work 2 sc in the end of beginning row*, then sc in free loop of foundation chain, and repeat from * to *, join with a sl st. (79 sc) Ch 1. Do not turn. NOTE: You will not be turning the work from this point on.
Row 9: Working in FLO, sc in same st as joining st and in each st around, join with a sl st. Ch 1. Do not turn
Row 10: (Working in both loops) Sc in same st as joining, and in each st around. Ch 1
Row 11: Sc in same st as ch 1, skip 2 sc, work 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sc, *sc in next st, sk 2 sc, work 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sc*, repeat from * to * around, join with a sl st in the first sc. Fasten off.
Row 12: Join yarn with a sl st, ch 2, work a dc dec in next two st, dc in next st, work 3 dc in next st, dc in next st, *dc dec over next 3 st, dc in next, work 3 dc in next st, dc in next st*, repeat from * to * around, end with a sl st in the top of the first dec. Fasten off.
Row 13 - 22: Repeat Row 12.
Row 23:Join yarn with a sl st, ch 2, work a dc dec in next two st, hdc in next st, work 3 sc in next st, hdc in next st, *dc dec over next 3 st, hdc in next, work 3 sc in next st, hdc in next st*, dc dec over next 3 st, repeat from * to * around, end with a sl st in the top of the first dec. Ch 1.
Row 24: Sc in each st around. Join with a sl st. Ch 1.
Row 25: Sc in each st around. Join with a sl st. Ch 1.
At this point, we begin the handles construction. You may want to locate the center of the bag by folding the bag flat, then folding it in half, marking the center stitches. Count 8 stitches to each side of the center stitch, and mark with a stitch marker or small piece of yarn or thread. This will mark the handle opening. For my bag, as follows:
Row 26: Sc in first 17 st, ch 16, skip next 17 st, sc in next 22, ch 16, sk next 17 st, sc in last 5 st, join with a sl st, ch 1.
Row 27: Sc in each st and ch around, join with a sl st. Ch 1. (76 sc)
Row 28: Sc in each st and ch around, join with a sl st. Ch 1. (76 sc)
Row 29: Sc in each st and ch around, join with a sl st. Ch 1. (76 sc)
Row 30: Alternative rsc or rsc in each st around. Join with a sl st. Fasten off.

Finishing: Alternative rsc or rsc in each st of inside edge of handles. Fasten off. Weave in all ends. Line purse if desired.

Enjoy your new tote!

To be quite honest here, this bag was a bit of a fluke.
I was making something else.
I'm very pleased with this one

8 ply yarn, any yarn will do.
Amount of yarn will be less than 100 gms.
The yarn I used is 90 % wool
5.00m hook
Bag strap/handle

N/A

N/A

DC= yo hook, insert hook into st, yo hook, pull through loop, yo hook, pull through 2 loops, yo hook, pull through 2 loops again. (Australian/English terms= trbl.)
Special stitches, PUFF st=(sc, 3dc in st)
Back piece.

More detail pictues available on my blog.
http://cats-rockin-crochet.blogspot.com/2008/02/crochet-puff-stitch-purs...

Back piece.
1. Ch 50, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1 turn
2. 1sc, 3dc in first sc, skip next 3 sc, *1sc, 3 dc in next sc, skip next 3 sc*, repeat from * to *, to last 4 sc, skip next 3 sc, 1sc in last sc, ch 1 turn.
3. 1sc, 3dc in first sc, skip next 3 dc, *1 sc, 3dc in next sc, skip next 3 dc*, repeat from * to * to last 4 sts, skip next 3dc, sc in last sc, ch 1 turn.
Repeat row 3, 7 more times.
Begin Flap.
11 and 12. sl st across next 4 st, continue pattern as above, to end, ch 1 turn.
13. repeat row 3, 7 more times, fasten off.
Front Piece.
Work as for back piece to row 10.
To give the front piece a tighter edge, I did a row of rsc, (crab st) along the top.
Making up.
(row 1 of pattern is the right side)
With bag inside out, sew front piece to back piece beginning at side along the bottom and up to the opposite side.
Optional.
To decorate the flap, I did groups of 3 hdc, evenly around the flap.
Find a nice button or make a bobble to close the flap, you will find the pattern has efficient gaps to go over a button.
To make a bobble, ch 3, 12 dc in 3rd ch from hook, sl st to finish, cut yarn leaving a long tail, thread tail through all stitches and pull tight. You can also make a smaller bobble by using sc, starting with 2 ch.
Straps.
I took a strap from an old bag and sewed it to the inside of the bag after I had done a row of sc on the steel loop. This makes a sturdier attachment.
I may line the bag, using the method in this on line tutorial.
http://www.crochetme.com/sack-dress-sack
Have fun, this makes up very quickly.

I have seen dress pot holders and a dress purse made in crochet, I just loved the look of them and decided I wanted a dress bag. So I came up with this one.

Materials

2 Handles I made mine from a length of skipping rope, I cut two pieces about 13 inches long (33 cm) and sewed the ends together.

Size 4.00m hook (US G/6)

8 ply yarn (US light worsted)

Dress Bag measure’s about 15 inches long (38cm) and at it’s widest point 16 inches across (40.5cm)

Not required

Special stitches

Shell= (2dc, 1ch, 2dc) all in stitch indicated

Lge shell=(3dc, 1ch, 3dc) all in st indicated

fpdc = work dc around the front post of the st indicated

bpdc = work dc around the post of the st indicated

Abbreviations

Dc = yo over hook, insert hook into st, yo hook, pull through a loop, yo hook, pull through 2 loops, yo hook, pull through 2 loops again (AU trbl)

More detailed pictures on my blog.
http://cats-rockin-crochet.blogspot.com/2008/02/crochet-dress-bag-patter...

Make 2

Begin with the handles colour 1

Hdc all around the handles until the handles are completely covered, sl st to join

1. ch 3, work 1 dc in each of next 49 hdc, ch 3 turn (50dc)

2. dc in each dc to end, working 1 dc in ch 3, ch 3 turn (50dc)

3. repeat row 2, do not ch 3, break off yarn

Make 2

Dress Part colour 2

Working from opposite end that you just finished on, attach yarn to the 15th dc (includes ch 3)

1. ch 3, work shell st in next dc,* fpdc around next dc, shell in next dc,* repeat from * to * 8 more times, ending with fpdc around next dc, ch 3 turn

2. shell in ch 1 space of previous shell, skip next 2 dc of shell, bpdc around next dc, *shell in ch 1 space, skip next 2 dc of shell, bpdc around next dc, * repeat from * to * 8 more times, ending with bpdc around ch 3, ch 3 turn

3. *shell in ch 1 space, skip next 2 dc of shell, fpdc around next dc,* repeat 9 more times ending with dc in top of ch 3, ch 3 turn

4. repeat rows 2 and 3 5 more times (total of 10 more rows) and row 2, 1 more time (14 rows of pattern)

Alternate colours as per the picture

15. repeat row 2, using the large shell stitch, ch 3 turn

16. repeat row 3, using the large shell stitch, ch 1, turn

17. work 1 sc in each dc and ch 1 space to end, ch 1, turn

18. work 1 sc in each sc across. Fasten off.

Sew in all loose ends.

With wrong side facing, sew sides of bag together, beginning at the top of the first patterned row, sew down the side, along the bottom and up along the other side, using a back stitch sew all 3 sides firmly.

Sleeve Frills

With right side facing

(Please note you may have to wing it a bit here, making sure to keep your work as even as possible.)

Using colour 2, attach yarn to the shoulder part of the sleeve in the side of the dc, closest to the handle, sc across evenly across the shoulder, make a large shell in the corner of the shoulder and the sleeve (1 sc in next 2 dc, large shell in next dc) 1 sc in the next 2 dc, large shell in the next, work this way all around the sleeve, (1 sc in next 2 dc, large shell in next dc)

but when you come to the lower centre of the sleeves, work sc, across this part, continue pattern along the other side of the sleeve , work sc across the shoulder as before, then work 1 sc in every second sc around the handle to the opposite shoulder and repeat the directions from above.

Embellish with a nice flower, ribbon, belt, button or something else of your choice.

Link to the free flower pattern I used.
http://crochetdoilies.com/crochet_rose_applique.html

Line the bag for the perfect finish.

To make a smaller bag alter beginning with 44 dc in row 1 for the handles and make 7 groups of small shell for dress.

Reduce the length to match.

Anyone living in Posadas could tell where this bag's name comes from, mainly because of the distinctive colors. I made it for myself more than a year ago, but ended up giving it to a dear friend from college, Rosalba.
The yarn, obviously, comes from recycled market bags, but don't be fooled. I'm into recycling, of course, yet, this project has more to do with the fact that I´m kind of a cheap hooker who can't afford to buy fancy yarn for fancy projects.
I featured this pattern in Spanish on http://curupisa.blogspot.com.

Yarn made from recycled plastic bags.
Use two skeins: a big one with mixed colours, made out from bags with writings (colour A) and a smaller one (colour B) made from plain colour bags (to tell you the truth, I didn’t pay attention to the amount of bags I used).
I used a 6mm hook (USA J/10, UK 4)

18''(45 cm) high.
16'' (40 cm) wide at the top.

10 sc and 10 rows= about 4''/10 cm.

You can find great tutorials anywhere on how to make yarn from plastic bags.

Starting with skein A, make a circle of 5 ch.
1st. round: 1 ch and 10 sc. Close this and all rounds with a sl st.
2nd rnd: 1 ch. and 2 sc on each sc. Close.
3rd. rnd: 1 ch., *1 sc over first sc, 2 sc on next one*. Repeat * across round.
4th. rnd: 1 ch, *1 sc over first 2 sc, 2 sc on next one*. Repeat * across round.
5th.rnd: 1 ch, *1 sc on next 3 sc, 2 sc on next one*. Repeat * across round.
6th.rnd: 1 ch, *1 sc over next 4 sc, 2 sc on next one*. Repeat * across round.
7th. rnd: 1 ch, *1 sc over next 5 sc, 2 sc on next one*. Repeat * across round.
8th. and 9th rnd: 1 ch, *1 sc over next 6 sc, 2 sc on next one*. Repeat * across round.
10th. 13th. rnd: sc on each st.
14th. rnd: 1 ch, *1 sc, 1 ch, skip 1 sc*, repeat.
15th. to 17th rnd: 1 ch, *1 sc on each ch, 1 ch, skip each sc*, repeat.
18th. to 19th. rnd: use skein B. 1 ch, *1 sc on each ch, 1 sc on each sc*, repeat.
20th. to 30th. rnd: with skein A, like rounds 14 and 15.
31st. to 32nd. rnd: like rounds 18 and 19, using colour B.
33rd. to 36th. rnd: with skein A, like rounds 14 and 15 c.
34th rnd: 1 ch., 1 sc on each st.
35th rnd: 1 ch, *1 sc on the next 22 st, 20 ch, skip next 16 sc*, repeat once.
36th and 37th rnd: 1 ch, 1 sc on each st across to the end.
Fasten off. Weave in end.