This is a pattern I came up with, to protect my new toy... A Casio EXILIM digital Camera. I received it in the mail and didn't have a cover to protect it. I made my own.
The cozy is made of left over yarns in my stash.
It is a good gift idea and works up in less than half an hour.

Cascade 220 (Light Teal)
LionBrand Homespun (Black)

Approximate Length 4"
Approximate Width 3"

3 sc and 3 rows = 1" (approximately) in heavier yarn.

Crochet Hook Size: US K / 6.5 mm (For Homespun)
US D / 3.25 mm (For Cascade 220)

Abbreviations:
Single Chain (sc/ scs) (I directed a video to demonstrate the stitch which is available from you tube - left handed and right handed)
Half Double Crochet (hdc) (Video available here on you tube.)
Chain (ch)
Inches ( " )

I worked the cozy in two yarn weights Heavier (Color A - Homespun) and Lighter (Color B - Cascade)

(Note: The pattern can be adopted to fit any camera/ cellphone/ Mp3 music player etc simply by checking the dimensions of the object it is being made for and then increasing the base chain numbers accordingly.)

* With Color A and K hook ch 11, turn. (11th chain will count for turning.)
* SC in the second chain from hook, * sc across to the end (total 10 scs). Ch 1 turn
* Repeat from * till the piece is exactly double the width of the camera. (My camera is 3.5", so my rectangular piece measured 7"). Bind off A.
* Join the Color B in the last sc of the previous row. Fold the rectangular piece in half and start sc through both layers from this corner down to the sides (Both layers of the piece will be joined on the sides using this edge.) then the bottom and then the corner of the other side. We now have a nice edge around 3 sides of piece. Use 1ch or 2scs to turn corners.
* Now we will work on the open edges in the round. ch 1, 2 scs with B in each sc of A (Total 40 scs around.) Join in the first ch1 using slip stitch.
* * ch 2, hdc in each sc around. Join with slip st to the first ch2. (total 40scs around.)
* Repeat from * for 3 more rows.
* ch2, 3hdc in the next 3scs, 1ch and skip next sc, *4hdc in the next 4 scs, 1ch and skip next sc. Repeat from * to the end. Join with slip stitch to the first chain 2. Bind off. The holes created in the last row will be used for the closure string.

To make the closure string

* Take Color B, 4 times the actual length that will be required for the pouch edge leaving two ends of atleast 2-4" each.
* Fold the length of B in half and secure one end. (I put the folded end in one of my toes) and twist it between your palms.
* Once the half length is twisted hold both ends together (thus resulting in another half fold of the already half length) and free the other end. The yarn will self twist to form a nice cord.
* Now thread this cord through the holes created in the last row of the cozy alternating drawing direction. (From outside to inside once and visa versa till the end.)
* Join the loose ends together with a knot to form a loop.

I want to decorate my kitchen with strawberries. That´s why I needed a berry-like grocery bag. Here it is, one of my very first patterns

Yarn: Schachenmayr, nomotta, “Catania“, Llg. 125 Meter/ 50 Gramm
50 gram red, 100 gram green

hook: size 3,5 (european size)

as you wish, netting will stretch

no gauge needed, make bag as big as you want (keep in mind it will stretch a lot)

ch=chain
sl=slipstitch
sc=single crochet
dc=double crochet
tc=triple crochet

Bottom (red):
4 ch, with sl in first ch make a ring
Begin every round with 3 ch instead of first dc and end with sl in 3nd ch of round
round 1: 3 ch , 12 dc in ring,
round 2: work in dc, in every 2nd dc of round 1 make 2 dc.
round 3: work in dc, in every 3rd dc of round 2 make 2 dc.
round 4: from round 4 to 9 increase dc by making 2 dc in 4th, 5th … dc of round before (easy, eh?)
round 10: dc in every stitch with no increases.

“leaves” (green):
(the leaves are optional, if you don’t like them continue with “bag”)

round 1: *10 ch, make sl in 5th dc of round 10*, repeat * to *
round 2: around every ch-loop of round 1 make: 1 sc, 3 dc, 3 tc, 3 dc, 1 sc

(For the orange version of the bags I made 2 rounds like round 1, that gives a more fuzzy effect)

Bag (green):
round 1:
Make the “tunnel” for the draw string:
3 ch (for 1st dc), *1 dc in 2nd dc of round 10 of bottom (the 2 rounds of the “leaves“ are not continued any further!), 1 ch*, Repeat from * to *
round 2: 3 ch (for 1st dc), 5 ch, 1 sc around next ch of round below, *5 ch, 1 sc into second dc of round below, 5 ch, 1 sc second dc of round below*, repeat from * to *.
Repeat Row 2 until bag is the desired size: Around each ch-loop work one sc followed by 5 ch, 5 ch, 1 sc, and so on.

The bag will be very stretchy, so you only need to make a bag with 2/3 of desired size.

If you want to get a bigger bag, work 7 ch instead of the 5 ch loops.

Edge:
round 1(green) : 3 ch (for 1st dc), *2 dc around ch-loop, 1 dc into sc of round before*, repeat from *to*, finish round with sl into 3rd ch of beginning.

Leaves on top (green) (these are optional, if you don´t want leaves on top, continue with round 2 of edge:)
round 1 leaves: 8 ch, 1 sl in 4th sc of round below, repeat

round 2 leaves: around each ch-loop work 1sc, 3 dc, 4 tc, 3dc, 1sc
(or work a second round like round 1 for fuzzy effect)

Continue working next round into first round of edge ( in red)
If there is already a stitch in the round below (from the leaves), work second stitch in same stitch:
round 2: 3 ch, 1 dc in each sc of round below, finish round with sl in 3rd ch of beginning
round 3-4: 3 ch, 1 dc in each dc of round below, finish round with sl in 3rd ch of beginning

Handles (red):
Lay bag flat to half, 4 centimeter from right edge work 5 sc on upper edge, continue in rows until desired length, fix handle 4 centimeter from left edge.
Work second handle the same way

Make a draw string: Make a ch ribbon 80 centimeter long and work sl over the complete length. Pull thread through the “tunnel” of round 1 bag. Attach a Drawstring Slide, available at a Notions Counter or Fabric Store

I have translated this pretty easy pattern as good as I could.. If anything is not clear or wrong, please feel free to contact me and leave a comment. I enjoy postive feedback as well ;-)

So about a week ago I finished my new tote bag for school and the first thing my boyfriend said was "it nees a matching wallet". So i decided that i would make an envelop shaped one. (I have a slight obessison with envelopes). So after i got home I decided to make. All because of my wuffanuff!. lol

Red heart super saver yarn (starbrights)
5.5I hook
Pink button
Sewing needle
Green sweing thread

w=8 inches
h= 4 inches (flap closed) h=6 inches with flap opened.

You can easily adjust this size with a bigger hook. (i started one for my sister and she wants it big cause she's gonna use it as a clutch)

No particular size= ROOM TO EXPERIMENT W00T!

stitch(es) used : HDC (Half double crochet) and SC (single crochet)
If u want to make an envelope shaped messenger bag simply increase to 100-124 ch and about 45-70 rows maybe more depending on how much you wanna fit in it.

Ch 36
Row 1: HDC in 3rd ch from hook. HDC across. ch 2, turn
Row 2-?: HDC across ch 2 turn until you get this wallet or purse the length and width you want.
after you get to your desired length
HDC decrease until you have 4 hdc's left.

sew on button with sewing needle and green thread. Put all your personal items inside your "envelope" and have a fun time!

So I have an awesome Macbook 13.3 inch laptop and it makes me sad when it gets scratched or scuffed so I decided to crochet up this quick case! its pretty cute and you can make it to fit any laptop.

Two different, contrasting colors and a medium sized hook.

You obviously have some freedom with colors, type of yarn, and size. I used Cotton Ease yarn in pink and black and a size J hook.

Depends on the size of your laptop. Mine fits quite snuggly on my laptop.

Basically what you think will fit your yarn and your laptop.

I made this for a 13.3 macbook, obviously you can slightly change the size in order to fit any sized laptop.

This is crocheted in one piece with the seams up the side.

Using your first color, chain the number of stitches that is necessary for the width of the laptop. I made mine almost exactly the width of the laptop because it will stretch out when you put your laptop in it.

1) hdc in each st for 4 rows
2) Switch to second color and hdc in each st for 4 rows
3) Repeat 1 and 2 8 times
4) Repeat 1
5) Switch to second color and hdc in each st for 2 rows
6) Repeat 2
7) Using Color 1, hdc in each st for 2 rows
8) hdc in first ten sts, chain 2 sts skip 2 sts, hdc in each st until 12 sts from the end, CO 2 sts, skip 2 sts, hdc in each st to end
9) Using color 2, hdc in each st for 2 rows.
8) Repeat 5
Line up the stripes for the front and the back leaving the last 5 stripes at the top in order to have it fold over the front and sew the seams up.

Buttons:
Chain 1 st
hdc 12 sts in the 1 st
sc 12 sts around the 12 sts you just created.

place and sew in buttons... weave in ends and enjoy your new laptop envelope!!

The pill purse is a quick and easy way to organise that ever expanding handbag.Its a great way to have those necessary tablets hidden .I have to take quite alot of tablets for the rest of my life,wherever I go I have to have these with me. Fed up with searching for my pills in the bottom whatever handbag I was using I decided I'd make a pill purse . I now never leave home without it.

Yarn: any ply, I used aran weight 40g in total.
Hook; use appropiate for the yarn you are using .I used 5mm

Fastener;any one of these Brooch,pin, button
I used a crochet flower glued onto a brooch pin.

the size of your largest pill packet

Not important its a purse

The pattern:

http://heldasland.blogspot.com/2008/03/free-pill-purse.html

The pill purse is a quick and easy way to organise that ever expanding handbag.Its a great way to have those necessary tablets hidden .I have to take quite alot of tablets for the rest of my life,wherever I go I have to have these with me. Fed up with searching for my pills in the bottom whatever handbag I was using I decided I'd make a pill purse . I now never leave home without it.

Yarn: any ply, I used aran weight 40g in total.
Hook; use appropiate for the yarn you are using .I used 5mm

Fastener;any one of these Brooch,pin, button
I used a crochet flower glued onto a brooch pin.

the size of your largest pill packet

Not important its a purse

The pattern:

http://heldasland.blogspot.com/2008/03/free-pill-purse.html

Indulge yourself in this rich, felted purse with a cheery flower and ribbon. It's the perfect cure for the wintertime blues!

Color A: 2 skeins (446 yd) Patons® Classic Wool Merino or 4/worsted weight 100% wool yarn
Color B: 1 skein (223 yd) Patons® Classic Wool Merino or 4/worsted weight 100% wool yarn
Color C: 1 skein (223 yd) Patons® Classic Wool Merino or 4/worsted weight 100% wool yarn
Size H-8 (5.0 mm) crochet hook
2 ft satin ribbon in Color C
Yarn needle

10” high by 11” wide at base.

Not necessary.

http://www.crochetkitten.com/files/Viktoria_Purse.pdf

This is one of my favorite bag patterns. Works up quickly and looks great in all sorts of colorways.
http://danceswithwool.wordpress.com/2007/09/05/green-mesh-shopping-tote/

Kitchen crochet cotton
Size G hook
This is a very flexible pattern with respect to gauge.

height: 15"
width unstretched: 12"

flexible

Farmers Market Bag, originally published in "The Green Issue" of Knit.1 Magazine (www.knit1mag.com ).

3 balls in Kelly Green of Craft by Vickie Howell Collection, 50 gr balls, each approx 125 m
(35% Milk Fiber / 65% Organic Cotton)

US size G & H crochet hooks OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE

Tapestry Needle

15”/38cm Long (w/o handles) x 16”/40.5cm (at bottom)

20 sc and 20 sc rows= 4”/10cm, using smaller hook

Top Band:
Using smaller hook, ch 95. Join, taking care not to twist. Place marker for end of rnd.
Next rnd: Sc in every stitch around. Join rnd with a sl st.
Repeat last row 4 more times.

A pretty business card holder to put all your cards inside and shine when someone asks you for one card!
For more details on the making of the business card holder visit the page:
http://littlewilds.blogspot.com/2007/10/crochet-business-card-holder.htm...

Yarn-ELLE Pure Gold DK, shade 29,100% Courtelle
4mm crochet needle
Tapestry needle
Rest of other yarns to make the flower
A little of fabric
Sewing needle

4x2.75 inches

5sc and 4rows = 1 inch

If you’ve got a different size of cards, you can add more rows, or more stitches, depending what you need to change.

Pattern:
Chain 16
Make the first sc in the second chain from the hook (15sc)
Chain1, turn, sc in every sc
Work like this until you have 24 rows complete.
Cut the yarn.

This adorable bag sold for $145 at Crochetville's 2007 auction! Features include a hook holder, yarn eyelets, and accessories pockets.

MC: 3 skeins (765 yd) Bernat® Soft Bouclé or 5/bulky weight yarn
CC: 1 skein (255 yd) Bernat® Soft Bouclé or 5/bulky weight yarn
Size J-10 (6.0 mm) crochet hook or size to obtain gauge
1 yd 1” wide grosgrain ribbon
1/2 yd fabric in coordinating color for lining
3 3/16” eyelets
Stitch markers
Yarn needle
Sewing thread in coordinating color
Sewing needle

12" wide x 10" high x 4" deep

None given.

Some sewing skill also required.

http://www.crochetkitten.com/files/The_Crocheter_s_Messenger.pdf

Whipped up in the knick o' time for a teacher gift. Liked it so much I made a mess of notes so I could recreate it. Be kind it's my first written out pattern.

Both quick and easy peasy.

Here's what you'll need:
3 skeins of Paton's SWS
US K-ish crochet hook...mine is bamboo and not the standard, but as you're felting it anyway, gauge is not critical.
tapestry/yarn needle

lingerie bag

ivory liquid dish soap

washing machine with lots of hot water

doh! forgot to measure.

uh, does it matter if you're felting it anyway?

It took me a bit longer as I was figuring it out as I went along, but I
have to think you could whip this out in an evening, felt it before bed
and have it dry and ready to go the next day.
This
bag is worked in the round, starting with an oval to form the base of
the bag by working down one side of a chain and back on the other,
increasing each round to your desired size, then decreasing to bring
the sides up and angle them in. Once the decreases are done, you work
even rounds until shaping the handles. I started working spiral at that
point, but I would recommend not. Once it was felted, that part of the
bag seemed to twist a bit which made shaping more challenging than it
had to be. My guess is that by finishing off each round and chaining up
to start a new one that wouldn't happen. I used half double crochet
hoping for a nice, dense fabric after felting and that is just what
resulted.

Abbreviations
hdc = half double crochet
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 stitches together

Ah, the sack dress. You remember them. Those baggy shapeless, sleeveless sacks with straight sides that dove to the floor – and just about everyone wore one with a white t-shirt. If you were feeling kind of sexy, yours might have had strings that tied in the back. Ten years ago it was a wardrobe staple. Now it’s a “What was I thinking and why is it still in my closet?” Somehow this dress escaped my last closet purge. Call it the allure of linen. I could donate this dress to charity, but why not give it a second chance as my new spring purse?

• MC: One long, straight sack dress. 20” wide x 45” long (armpit to hem measurement) or about 1 1/4 yds. of 42” wide fabric, which will yield approximately 110 yds of 1/2” fabric yarn. Look for mid-weight cotton or cotton blends. This dress was a 50% cotton/50% linen blend.
• CC1: One silk or satin slip or blouse for lining, or about 1/2 yd of lining fabric.
• US P / 10.0 mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle
• Seam ripper
• Cutting implements to cut up the dress (scissors and a ruler or a rotary cutter, plastic ruler and cutting mat with a grid)
• Scissors
• Washable marking pen/pencil (a regular #2 pencil may also work, for darker fabrics use 1/4” paper tape)
• Pins
• Sewing thread to match the lining and sack fabric
• Sharp sewing needle
• Sewing Machine (optional)
• Iron (optional)

9” wide x 6.5” high x 4.5” deep

7 dc / 4.5 rows = 4”

The raw edges of the strips will fray. This can be very messy when you are working on your sack. If you do not want a frayed look to your sack or you do not want to deal with the mess, you will need to use 5 yds. of fabric cut into 2” strips. Sew each strip together. Press the strip in half and then fold and press each raw edge to the center press line. Using a bias tape maker can help you do this faster. Roll into a ball.

Beginning ch 2 counts as 1st dc.

The body of the sack is worked in the round; use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round and do not turn at the end of each round.

The flap and strap of the sack are worked in rows. Turn at the end of each row.

Dress Prep

1. Remove the seams, hem and facings of the dress using a seam ripper. Use an iron to press out any creases.
2. Using your cutting implements, cut the front and back of the dress into 1/2” strips from the hem to the shoulders.
3. To join the strips of fabric using one of the following methods:
1. Sew the strips together on a sewing machine. Roll into a ball.
2. Cut a small vertical slit into each end of every strip. Insert strip B 1” into a slit in strip A. Pull the long tail of strip B through the slit of strip B. Pull tight and repeat (see photo). Roll into a ball.

When I was in high school, a push for environmental awareness was sparked by concern over the ozone layer. The US government managed to ban CFCs during this time and recycling programs sprouted up in towns all over the country. And then, well, some other crisis caught the media’s attention and it seems like over the last 15 years, the nation took the proverbial “one step back” after its “two steps forward.”

As attention turns once more en masse to the protection of the environment, it’s important to remember that arguably the most important of the “3 Rs” is not “recycle,” but “reduce.” When we keep resources out of the consumption cycle all together, we don’t have to worry about reusing or recycling them.

It’s with that in mind that I created this mesh tote, suitable for getting groceries home from the store and reducing the need to use store-provided bags. Reusable for years to come, you will prevent the need to recycle many shopping bags over the lifespan of the tote. And, in case you are somewhat of a shopaholic, the base of the bag is a filet-crochet rendering of the Reduction symbol to remind you to consider whether you really need something before you put it in the bag. (If you don’t want to lecture yourself while shopping, I’ve included a blank graph, too, so you can design your own bag bottom.)

The bag has a pocket on the front that can hold your keys and wallet while you shop. When you get home, you can fold the bag up and invert the pocket over it to store the bag until you need it again. (It reduces in size, too!) Also, the mesh construction of the bag makes it perfect for trips to the beach. Stow it in another bag and take it out when you are leaving to pack up sandy clothes, towels and seashells.

Want to increase your earth-friendly impact? Poke around in a thrift store for the ever-present wayward balls of crochet cotton and use those instead of buying new. See if you have some buttons lying around the house either on old clothes that are too damaged to be donated or from the replacement buttons that come with some shirts. The sample bag was made entirely out of thrift-store finds and cost less than $2 in materials. I love when good for the earth is good for your pocketbook, too!

• Copious amounts of scrap crochet cotton in size 10 (to be used double-stranded throughout), size 3, or size 5. Sample used the following:
• MC: Coats & Clark South Maid (100% mercerized cotton, 400 yds per ball), White, 2 balls required
• CC1 Coats & Clark Royale Classic Crochet Cotton (100% mercerized cotton, 350 yards per ball), 401-Orchid Pink, 2 balls required
• CC2: Small amount of size 10 mercerized cotton in brown (about 30-40 yards)
• US E / 3.5mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle
• 4 split ring stitch markers
• 4 half-inch buttons
• Straight pins

18”w x 4.5”d x 15”h (measurements given are taken when the bag is relaxed and exclude the handles)

19 dc / 9.5 rows = 4 inches

While gauge is technically unimportant in a bag such as this, it can have an effect on the size of buttons you can use to secure the pocket flap. So, if you don’t take time to check your gauge, be aware that you may need slightly larger or smaller buttons. And, of course, be sure to work at a consistent gauge throughout.

Any time there is a color change noted in the pattern (or, indeed, anywhere you like) you can switch from using double stranded size 10 crochet cotton to a single strand of size 3 or size 5. The bag was designed to use scraps of crochet cotton, so feel free to get creative. The only suggestion is to use one yarn continuously through the mesh portion of the bag, as it is harder to securely weave in ends over the mesh stitches.

Special Stitch Patterns:

dc2tog (decrease): Yo, insert hook in stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, insert hook into specified stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops on hook.

dc3tog (double decrease): Yo, insert hook in stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, insert hook into specified stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, insert hook into specified stitch, yo and pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Note: When working the Motif Pocket, dc2tog and dc3tog are referred to as clusters.

Working a filet crochet chart: Think of each vertical line as one stitch and each block as two stitches. You will always work a dc for a vertical line. A block that is filled in is worked as 1 dc in each of the next 2 stitches. An empty block is worked by chaining two and skipping the next two stitches. To turn, ch 2 (counts as first dc). There's a good tutorial here.

SAVE YOUR SCRAPS!

I've said this before, and I'll say it again: I have a little problem. Unless it's only a few inches long, I cannot throw yarn away. I even bought a bag of scrap yarn and odd balls from a thrift store once! This isn't really a bad thing. I don't like to waste yarn and my efforts to work through my stash of scraps have resulted in many creative ideas, patterns (many of which are on this site), and interesting FOs.

I am not alone in my efforts to use oddments and odd balls -- one may draw inspiration from the Odd Balls Knitting and Crocheting Flickr group.

I never had a hot water bottle until I moved to Glasgow, and now I wish I'd started using one before. I like to keep the heat off at night to save energy, but even under piles of blankets I am always a bit chilly when I first go to bed. A hot water bottle is a great way to keep cozy and warm -- I even like to use mine to keep my toes warm when I'm sitting at my desk at home. The thing is, if you want your hot water bottle to stay warm all night, you have to use really hot water, but then the hot water bottle is too hot to cuddle. That's why you need a hot water bottle cozy.  

I designed two versions. One is Fair Isle-inspired and is worked in the round using the tapestry crochet technique for part of it. The other is a patchwork cozy and is worked flat.

If you don't like the anchor chart provided, find a knitting or crochet chart and work from that. But c'mon, I had to use a nautical theme for my hot water bottle. I just couldn't help myself!

If you don't have a hot water bottle, you can use this pattern to make a bag or a pillow cover instead. Or not. Either way, I'm right. Just don't throw away your scraps!

• Approximately 400 yards (370 m) scrap yarn is enough for either cozy (this is a generous estimation, you might not need that much). Worsted or aran weight is recommended for the pattern -- for thinner yarns, try using two complimentary strands at once; for thicker yarns, I recommend making the cozy a few stitches narrower and a few rows shorter to ensure a proper fit.
• US G/7 (4.50 mm) hook or size needed to obtain gauge
• Yarn needle
• Stitch Marker

Will fit standard size hot water bottle, 8" x 11" (20 cm x 28 cm), not including the 'neck.' The Patchwork Cozy, 10" x 11" (25 cm x 28 cm), is a bit roomier than The Anchor Cozy, 8.5" x 11.5" (22 cm x 29 cm).

The Patchwork Cozy: 16 sts x 17 rows of sc in the round = 4" (10 cm)

The Anchor Cozy: 15 sts x 16 rows of sc in the round = 4" (10 cm)

Pick colors that go together -- your project may be a real eyesore if you use colors or color combinations that don't work well together.

When working color changes from the anchor chart, I find it looks best to change color mid-stitch. For a single crochet stitch, the final yo and draw-through is done with the new color. Additionally, while working with one color, 'carry' the other by crocheting over it. This color-changing technique is known as tapestry crochet and is explained by Carol Ventura. (Ed. note: Also see Carol's Get Your Ducks in a Row pattern from this issue.)

Although I designated the colors for the anchor chart as MC (the background color) and CC (the anchor color), feel free to change either color as often as you'd like. For ideas and inspiration, I like to look at knitted Fair Isle pieces because they have marvelous color combinations and often change color every few rows.  

Also, please note that when working tapestry crochet in the round from the anchor chart, as well as any knitting chart, the finished work will turn out looking slightly italicized, or on a slant. This is normal and is due to crochet stitches being slightly off-set from round to round.  

You may wish to carry a yarn throughout The Anchor Cozy so that the thickness and drape is the same throughout. If you do not wish to carry a yarn throughout the pattern, you may wish to switch to lighter weight yarns, such as DK or sport weight yarns, when working the tapestry crochet section from the anchor chart.

The Patchwork Cozy

Big Squares (make 4, using any colors or combo of colors you like)

Ch 17, turn.