Photo: Laura Kudritzki, Muse Studios

This v-neck, cap-sleeved, raglan t-shirt is crocheted in the round from the top-down. It’s seamless, and the top-down construction allows you to try it on as you go. The sweater is designed to be fitted and has a small amount of negative ease, therefore finished measurements should be exactly, or slightly less than your actual measurements. This is a template, not a pattern, and it allows you freedom as far as gauge and stitch pattern go. For more about how this sweater is constructed, check out the article about it. And to connect with other crocheters who are making it, join the crochet-along.

• Enough yarn for your sweater. Here's what we used in these samples:
• Julie's Version: Be Sweet Boucle Mohair (100% mohair; 120yds per 50g ball), 3 balls in Wheat
• Andi's Version: Crystal Palace Yarns Meringue (40% Merino Wool, 40% acrylic, 20% elastic nylon fibers; 123 yards/114 meters per 50g ball), 10 balls in Vine Green
• Crochet hook:
• Julie's Version: 6.0mm (US J) hook for neckline, 5.5mm (US I) hook for bust and hemline, 5.0mm (US H) hook for waist
• Andi's Version: 4.0mm (US G) hook
• Scissors
• Yarn needle to weave in ends.

Amy's Version

Custom fit

Variable

Special Stitches:

FPdc – Front post double crochet
BPdc – Back post double crochet

Pattern Template 

Gauge

An adequate gauge swatch is essential in this pattern—row gauge is actually not important, because the sweater grows from the top-down, but stitch gauge is. So create a swatch that’s at least 6 inches wide and 3 inches tall. When you’re swatching, you may want to try various needle sizes and stitch patterns to get a fabric that you like. Take your time. Most of the design process happens here. If you’re using a fuzzy yarn, I would recommend a simple stitch pattern—I think hdc works great. And don’t be afraid to use a needle larger than recommended because we want a flexible, not stiff fabric.

Measure your gauge. Make note of it here:

_____________ sts per in/cm.

Andi's Version

Setup

Measure the back of your neck. Multiply this measurement by your gauge: ________ (A)

Divide the number above by 3: ______  (B) Multiply B by 2: ______  (C) (here we’re determining the number of stitches to chain for the sleeves.)

Add C + A: ________ (D)

Add D + 6:  ________ (E) (The six stitches we added form the four raglan “seams” plus two stitches for the front of the sweater. E is the required number of stitches needed to begin your sweater, you’ll need to adjust this number, adding the required number stitches for the “turning chain.”)

Instructions

(Replace the letters with the numbers you got in your calculations.)

Neck Shaping

Using the yarn and hook you’ve selected, chain E.  Place markers at the seam stitches so you’ll know where to increase in the first row. Skip the first stitch, place a marker at the 2nd stitch, skip B stitches, place a marker at the next stitch, skip A stitches, place a marker at the next stitch, skip B stitches, you should be right before the second to last stitch. Place a marker in the second to last stitch - 4 markers placed.

Note: I used double crochet in the template as an example, but you should feel free to use any stitch or stitch pattern.

Deneen's Version

Row 1:  Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in 4th ch from hk, 3 dc in next st (where marker was placed), dc in each st to 2nd marker, 3 dc in marker st, dc in each st to 3rd marker, 3 dc in marker st, dc in each st to 4th marker, 3 dc in marker st, 2 dc in final st - 10 sts added.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), turn, dc in same st as t-ch, *dc in each st to next 3-dc shell, dc in 1st st of shell, 3 dc in 2nd st of shell, dc in 3rd st of shell, * rep from * to * across until 4 dc shells have been worked, dc in each st to last st, 2 dc in last st (top ch of t-ch) - 10 sts added.

Rep Row 2, until the number of stitches at the back is equal to the number of stitches for the two fronts when added together (plus or minus one stitch is ok). In my model, this took a total of 5 rows.

At the end of the final neck shaping row, ch 1, sl st to join to beg of round to form center V.  From now on you will be working in continuous (spiraling) rounds. The center point of the V marks beg/end of each round.

Continuing Raglan Increases

Julie's Version

Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), sk 1st st, *dc in each st to next 3-dc shell, dc in 1st st of shell, 3 dc in 2nd st of shell, dc in 3rd st of shell, * rep from * to * around until 4 dc shells have been worked, dc in each st to end of the round. Do not join. - 8 sts added.

Rnd 2: *Dc in each st to next 3-dc shell, dc in 1st st of shell, 3 dc in 2nd st of shell, dc in 3rd st of shell, * rep from * to * around until 4 dc shells have been worked, dc in each st to end of round. Do not join - 8 sts added.

Continue as in Rnd 2, adding 8 stitches per round until you can comfortably wrap the sleeve cap around the widest part of your arm. (Make sure you stop to try the top on every few rounds.)

Forming the Sleeves

Next Rnd: *Dc in each st to next 3-dc shell, dc in 1st st of shell, 3 dc in 2nd st of shell, dc in 3rd st of shell, ch 2, sk all sts up to next 3-dc shell, dc in 1st st of shell, 3 dc in 2nd st of shell, dc in 3rd st of shell, * rep from * to * once, dc in each st to end of round.  Do not join - cap-sleeves formed.

Bodice

Rnd 1: Dc in each st of the round.

Rnd 2: Dc in each st to 1st underarm, dc2tog twice, dc in each st to 2nd underarm, dc2tog twice, dc in each st to end of round.

Rep Rnd 1 of Bodice until sweater falls just above your hip (or reaches the length you’d like before the ribbing. If you wish, you can change to a smaller hook size just after the sweater falls below the bust to add some shaping.)

Ribbing

Rnd 1:  *FPdc in the first st, BPdc in next st, * rep from * to * around to create ribbing. Do not join.

Rnd 2: Rep Rnd 1 of Ribbing, working FPdc around FPdc sts and BPdc around BPdc sts until you have 2 inches of ribbing (or the length you desire).

Fasten off.

Sleeve Edging

With smaller hook, join yarn at 1st underarm and work 3 rounds of FPdc/BPdc ribbing around cap sleeve. Sl st in next st. Fasten off. Repeat for 2nd sleeve. (Note: if you’d like longer sleeves, you can work plain dc rows before beginning the ribbing.)

Neck Edging

With smaller hook and RS facing, join yarn at the center back of the neck opening, work 1 round of sc around neck opening, sl st in first sc to join.  Fasten off.

Weave in all ends.

I've always had a thing for fingerless gloves and wrist warmers. When I was a little kid, I always wanted to cut the fingertips off my gloves so I could be like Bob Cratchit from Dickens's A Christmas Carol, but my mom wouldn't let me. Years later, I cut the fingertips off the first pair of gloves I bought in college. I've seen a lot of knitting patterns for wrist warmers, but I haven't seen many crocheted wrist warmers so I thought I'd make these!

Although this pattern is done in Artesano Alpaca, it is easily adaptable to other yarns and is a great way to use up scrap yarns and one-skein impulse purchases.

• MC:  1 skein Inca Cloud Artesano Alpaca (100% Alpaca, 131 yds/120m per 50g skein): color #002 (brown), or approximately 131 yards/120m of any DK weight alpaca
•  CC1 and CC2:  1/2 skein each of Inca Cloud Artesano Alpaca (100% Alpaca, 131 yds/120m per 50g skein): color #402 (olive green) and color #71 (burnt orange) or approximately 131 yards/120m of any DK weight alpaca or scrap yarn
• US F/5 (3.75 mm) hook
• Yarn needle

Wee Wristies: (will fit children and people with small hands, like me)
Normal Wristies: (will fit average-sized wrists)
Big Wristies: (for big people)

The pattern is written for Wee Wristies with changes for Normal Wristies and Big Wristies written in parentheses.

19 sts x 24 rounds of sc = 4" (10 cm)

Fpdc = front post double crochet

The Wrist-bit

With MC, ch 26 (30, 34), sl st in first ch to form ring.  

Round 1.  Ch 2 (counts as first dc), dc in each st around, sl st in 2nd ch of ch-2 to close ring. (26 [30, 34] dc)

Round 2.  Ch 1 (counts as first sc), *fpdc around next dc of previous row, sc in next st,*  rep from * to * around, ending fpdc around last dc of previous row,  sl st in first ch to close ring.  

Round 3. With CC1, ch 1 (counts as first sc), *fpdc around post of next fpdc, sc in next st,*  rep from * to * around, ending fpdc around post of next fpdc,  sl st in first ch to close ring.

Round 4.  Repeat Round 3 in MC.  

Round 5.  Repeat Round 3 in CC2.  

Round 6.  Repeat Round 3 in CC1.  

Round 7.  Repeat Round 3 in CC2.  

Round 8.  Repeat Round 3 in MC.  

Round 9.  Repeat Round 3 in CC1.  

Rounds 10-11.  Repeat Round 3 in MC.  

The Thumb-Hole-bit

This section is worked flat instead of in the round.  

Row 1.  Ch 1 (counts as sc), turn, sc in each st to end.  Do not join in first ch.  

Repeat Row 1 until work measures 2.5" (3", 3") or desired length.  

Top O' the Mitt

Round 1: Sl st in first ch of row to join, ch 1, sc in each st around.

Repeat Round 1 for 4 (5, 6) more rounds, ending with sc in first ch, sl st in following stitch.  Fasten off.  

Finishing

Using yarn  needle, weave in all ends.

Working with wire is totally addictive. Of course, it takes a little getting used to.  If you haven’t tried it before, read through the tips for beginners, find some cheap craft wire and experiment with some of your favorite shapes and stitches.

Tips for beginners:

You can find wire in most craft and bead stores.  Look for some cheap 26 – 30 gauge craft wire in the bead, or even floral, section of the store.   Once you get the hang of it, you can splurge on more expensive colored wires, gold, or even sterling silver.  Note that 24 gauge craft wire will be more difficult to work with than 24 gauge gold or silver wire.

The higher the gauge number the thinner and more flexible the wire will be.

Because wire is so stiff, it doesn’t show textures and patterns very well.  Keep to basic, simple stitches like single and double crochet.
 
Before making your piece, try working it up in some stash yarn or thread so you can avoid the possibility of a mistake.

If you do make a mistake, you can “rip” back a few stitches if you work slowly and carefully. If you need to rip back more than a few stitches, it’s best to start over.

Don’t use your favorite hooks. Use only steel or aluminum hooks. The wire will cut into bamboo and plastic hooks and will scratch the paint on colored metal hooks.

Working with wire isn’t exactly like working with yarn. You want to bend or “work” the wire as little as possible. Because the tension is already built into the wire, you don’t need to hold it the same way you would hold yarn. Don’t thread the wire through your fingers, either leave the working end free, using only your thumb and finger to control the wire, or loop it over just the index finger.

Don’t worry about imperfect loops and stitches as you go. You can stretch and shape the loops when it’s all done.

Earrings:

• 24-26 gauge wire
• 16 (6-8mm) round beads
• G/6 (4.25mm) metal crochet hook
• Needle nose pliers (helpful but optional)
• Wire cutter or scissors
• 2 head pins
• 2 earring hooks

Necklace:

• 24-26 gauge wire
• 20 (6-8mm) round beads
• I/9 (5.50mm) metal crochet hook or Tunisian hook
• Wire cutter or scissors
• Needle nose pliers (helpful but optional)
• 24” of 2mm leather cord or thin ribbon (velvet would be beautiful)
• Clasp

Special Stitches:

Beaded Single Crochet (Bsc) - Insert hook into ring, wire over hook and draw up loop, draw one bead up to hook, wire over hook and draw through both loops on hook.

Beaded chain (Bch) – Draw bead up to hook, wire over hook and draw through loop on hook.

I have a little problem. Unless it's only a few inches long, I cannot throw yarn away.  I've even bought bags of scraps and partial skeins from charity shops. I think this stems from my college crocheting years when every strand was sacred.

Rather than collecting leftover bits of yarn until the end of time, I am always on the lookout for odd-ball, one-skein, and scrap-yarn projects. I have a problem with a lot of scrap yarn patterns, though. Just because something is made with leftover yarn doesn't mean it has to be messy-looking and made with clashing colors. Choose the scraps for your projects carefully, making sure the colors go well together. Repeat after me: scrappy does not mean crappy.

When I worked as a barista, I used scrap yarn to crochet coffee cup cozies for my customers, but now that I do most of my coffee drinking at home, I figured it was high-time I designed a cozy for my french press.

This Mondrian-inspired cozy is just one way to work-up a cozy for your cafetière. Try a monochrome version (a great way to use odd balls and one-skein impulse purchases) with an embroidered embellishment, try stripes or fancy stitches, or try something completely different. And definitely send me pictures!

• Approximately 165 yards (151m) scrap yarn (DK or sport weight is recommended for the pattern -- for thinner yarns, try using two complimentary strands at once; for thicker yarns, I would recommend making the cozy a few stitches narrower and a few rows shorter to ensure a proper fit)
• C1 (yellow):  20 yards (18m)
• C2 (black):  40 yards (37m)
• C3 (white):  50 yards (46m)
• C4 (red):  40 yards (37m)
• C5 (blue):  15 yards (14m)
• US F/5 (3.75 mm) hook
• Buttons
• Needle
• Sewing thread (optional)
• Yarn needle

Will fit standard size coffee press: 7" x 14" (18cm x 36cm)

17 sts x 18 rows of sc = 4" (10 cm)

When changing from one color to another, I find it looks best to change color mid-stitch.  For a single crochet stitch, the final yo and draw-through is done with the second color.  Although it is not necessary to 'carry' yarns for this project, this color-changing technique is sometimes known as tapestry crochet, explained by Carol Ventura here.

The Pattern

With C1, ch 28, turn.  

Row 1:  Starting in second ch from hook, sc in each st to end, ch 1, turn.  (27 sts)

Row 2-4:  Sc in each st to end, ch 1, turn.   

Rows 5-6:  With C2, sc in each st to end, ch 1, turn.    

Row 7: With C3, sc in each of the next 17 sts, with C2, sc in each of the next 5 sts, with C3, sc in each of the last 5 sts, ch 1, turn.  

Row 8: With C3, sc in each of the first 5 sts, with C2, sc in each of the next 5 sts, with C3, sc in each of the last 17 sts, ch 1, turn.   

Rows 9-22: Repeat Rows 7 and 8.

Rows 23-24:  With C2, sc in each st to end, ch 1, turn.  

Row 25:  With C4, sc in each of the first 17 sts, with C2, sc in each of the next 5 sts, with C3, sc in each of the last 5 sts, ch 1, turn.  

Row 26:  With C3, sc in each of the first 5 sts, with C2, sc in each of the next 5 sts, with C4, sc in each of the last 17 sts, ch 1, turn.

Rows 27–44:  Repeat Rows 25 and 26.

Rows 45-46:  With C2, sc in each st to end, ch 1, turn.  

Row 47:  With C3, sc in each of the first 11 sts, with C2, sc in each of the next 5 sts, with C5, sc in each of the last 11 sts, ch 1, turn.

Row 48:  With C5, sc in each of the first 11 sts, with C2, sc in each of the next 5 sts, with C3, sc in each of the last 11 sts, ch 1, turn.

Rows 49–56: Repeat Rows 47 and 48.

Row 58:  With C2, sc in each st to end, turn.  

Row 59:  With C1, ch 3 (counts as first tr), tr in each st to end.  (Note:  Feel free to substitute hdc, dc, double-tr, etc. for the tr stitches to accommodate button size.)   

Finishing

Fasten off.  Using yarn needle, weave in ends.  

Sew buttons onto the area between Rows 1-4. Not everyones coffee presses have their handle in the same place, so you will have to figure out the placement yourself -- the good news is that you don't have to make button holes! The buttons fasten into the tr-spaces of the last row.  

If you find sewing on buttons a nightmare, you may fasten the cozy by attaching lengths of ch-sts to the foundation chain and tying them to the tr stitches.

I have a hard time passing up wool and cashmere sweaters when I find them at thrift stores. I appreciate quality yarn in pretty colors, but I don’t always approve of a thrift store sweater’s style. When a nice sweater fits perfectly but doesn’t suit my taste, I feel compelled to set it free from life as a helpless victim of outdated fashion. This sweater entered the world with a stifling, high collar that made my neck feel trapped. With my crochet hook and some scissors, I set it free!

• 1 ball of size 10 crochet cotton to match your sweater however you want
• US size D/3 - 3.25mm hook
• Small felting needle
• Piece of styrofoam to needle felt into (at least 2” thick)
• Fabric scissors
• Marking implement (such as fabric chalk)
• Sewing needle

Custom.

The size of the crocheted collar and cuffs for your sweater will vary depending on the sweater you choose to embellish. Although gauge is not important for this project, I have included the measurements of my own sweater. It didn’t leave the thrift store with tags so I don’t know exactly how large it is, but I’m guessing it is a size small. My finished collar is 1 1/2” tall by 13” wide when lying flat. The finished cuffs each measure 5” long, 6” wide at the widest edge and 3 3/4” wide at the narrowest point. The gauge of my work is 4” = 30 sc wide, (14) 3-ch mesh arc stitches wide and 22 mesh arc stitches tall.

Any sweater can be modified using this pattern. If you use a fine knit wool sweater you can needle felt the cut edges to prevent fraying. Needle felting is a dry felting process that adheres the fibers of wool together with a sharp barbed tool. Some links with more information about needle felting:

• http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=51271.0
• http://www.gfwsheep.com/needlefelting/needlefelt1.html

Collar

Prepare collar for crocheting

Spread the sweater out flat with the front facing up.

For those who like to crochet loosely, this is the project for you since it's tapestry crocheted with a large hook and loose stitches. With tapestry crochet, one yarn is single crocheted, while another is carried. Colors are switched while two loops of the single crochet stitch are still on the hook. For more information about tapestry crochet, please visit www.tapestrycrochet.com.

The bag shrinks and felts like magic in a washing machine. The beauty of felted tapestry crochet is that the carried yarn increases the sturdiness of the fabric and the pattern is visible on the inside and the outside!

• Berroco Hip-Hop (100% wool; 76yd per 3 1/2 oz / 70m per 100 g), 4 balls each of:
• MC:  #7240 Zion
• CC:  #7231 Dreamz
• stitch marker
• 1 1/2” button
• yarn needle.
• US size Q (15.75-16 mm) or hook needed to obtain gauge

Before felting: 31” wide x 18” high (with base, but without handles)

After felting: 13” wide x 15” high (with base, but without handles)

Before felting: 6 sc and 7 sc rows = 4” / 10 cm square

When changing from one color to another in sc, the final yo and draw-through is done with the second color. Additionally, one yarn is "carried" while the other is being crocheted. This technique, which should be applied throughout this pattern, is known as the tapestry crochet stitch and is illustrated in detail here.