Georgia O’Keefe is my absolute favorite artist. She saw the world around her in minute detail, and to honor her vision I wanted to envision the scarf in a new way. Based on the O’Keefe painting “Large Dark Red Leaf On White,” I designed a scarf of large red crocheted leaves. Make this your own by arranging the leaves in a straight line, overlapping, or even make a V-shaped scarf with a leaf cluster in the back. Allow your inner artist to emerge and have fun with Georgia.

• Color A:  Malabrigo, Merino (100% wool; 216 yards / 3.5 oz.), #41 Burgundy, 1 hank
• Color B:  Malabrigo, Merino (100% wool; 216 yards / 3.5 oz.), #201 Pearl, 1 hank
• Color C:  Rowan, Lurex Shimmer (viscose blend; 103 yards per 25 grams), Black, 1 ball
• Color D:  Rowan, Kidsilk Spray (mohair blend; 229 yards / 25 grams), #573 Medici, 1 ball
• Color E:  Nashua, Creative Focus Chunky (75% wool, 25% alpaca; 110 yards/100 meters, 100 grams/3.5 oz.), #100 Natural, 1 ball
• Note:  If the above yarns are not available at your local yarn store, substitute a heavy worsted/aran weight yarn for the Malabrigo; fingering weight metallic yarn for Lurex Shimmer; DK weight mohair yarn for Kidsilk Spray; and any chunky wool for the Nashua Creative Focus.
• Hook size I/9 (5.5 mm) and K/10.5 (6.5 mm)

• Make all leaves prior to construction and play with the lay out to get the look you want. 
• Weaving in all ends as you go also makes the final construction easier and faster. 
• Gauge is not crucial for this project.

Want to sport a conversation piece that is as appropriate on the convention circuit as it is for a day of snowboarding? Well then, this hat’s for you! Inspired by my favorite LOTR villain, this big-eared chapeau is worked up in warm wool Koigu and created entirely single crochet. Short rows are used to create a wrinkled brow, and easy construction techniques allow even the novice crocheter to tackle this wacky headgear with little problem. It’s a satisfying project that is sure to turn heads.

• MC: Koigu Premium Merino KPM (100% Merino wool, 175 yds/ 50 g), color – 1111, 2 hanks required
• CC1: Koigu Premium Merino KPM (100% Merino wool, 175 yds/ 50 g), color – 2420, 1 hank required
• CC2: Koigu Premium Merino KPM (100% Merino wool, 175 yds/ 50 g), color – 2300, 1 hank required
• CC3: Koigu Premium Merino KPM (100% Merino wool, 175 yds/ 50 g), color – 00, 1 hank required
• US C / 2.75 mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge
• Yarn needle
• Fiberfill
• Pins

One size

27 sc / 32 rows = 4 inches

I always come across patterns that I like but want to change. It never fails. Either I don’t like the sleeve or I want to tweak the hem. Add a little here, take away a little there - I just can’t seem to stop myself.

So choose your own adventure. Feeling romantic and girly? Go for the wide v-neck collar and flouncy peplum hem. Or maybe you need a hip-length weekender sweater to snuggle in by the fire...

• Euro Yarns Peru DK Luxury (70% Merino/20% Alpaca/10% Silk; 124 yards/112 meters per 50 grams/1 3/4 oz.), Magenta (#09), 13 (14, 15, 16) balls (yardage estimates are for full jacket with collar and peplum hem or hip-length hem).
• Reduce by 1 skein if you omit the collar.
• Reduce by 2 skeins if you choose a cropped hem.
• H/8 (5 mm) hook or size needed to obtain gauge
• I/9 (5.5 mm) hook or size needed to obtain gauge
• J/10 (6 mm) hook or size needed to obtain gauge
• La Mode Silver Oval buttons style # 24785 (1 1/8”)

To lengthen or shorten body of jacket add or remove rows at waist between rows 37-43 on back, front right and front left.

To lengthen sleeves add rows between rows 47-51.

To shorten sleeves remove rows between rows 33-43.

Choice of 3 hemlines:

Cropped: falls between natural waist and top of hips.

Hip-length: falls to middle of hips, 2.5” below cropped hem.

Peplum: subtle 4” flounce from cropped waistline.

With smaller hook: 1 repeat = 1” (.94”) wide, 1 row= 1/2” (.44”), 4 repeats= 3.75”, 9 rows= 4”.

Pattern is worked from the neck down.

Special Stitch

Shell Pattern (sh patt): (3 dc, ch 2, sc) in each ch-2 sp.

We all know a little boy like my nephew: super smart, super cute, super active! What do you make for a boy who's always on the go? You can forget about hat and gloves - who has time to put them on before running to the swing? You can toss out blankets too: by the time you’re done, he’s in college. I knew it had to be quick to make (lest he grow again), easy to wash (it’s going to get filthy), and something he would actually wear (no granny squares for this boy). So, hopefully you’ll agree that this vest has it all for your and my boy on the go.

Special thanks to Kraemer Yarn Company for supplying the yarn for this project. Please take a minute to check them out; they are great yarn company that supports all fiber enthusiasts and is conveniently located close to my hometown in Pennsylvania.

• Summit Hill Yarn by Kraemer Yarns (100% Merino superwash wool, 230 yards [210 m] per 3.5 oz [100 g])
• Main Color (MC): Adventurine (Green), 2 (2, 2, 3) skeins
• Contrasting Color (CC): Peridot (Lime), 1 (1, 1, 1) skein
• US H/8 (5.00mm) hook
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends
• (1) 18”/46 cm (18”/46 cm, 22”/56 cm, 22”/56 cm) coil-separating sweater zipper
• Sewing thread to match the zipper
• Sewing needle

Sizes Small, (Medium, Large, X-Large) fit chest size 21” (23”, 25”, 27”). Approximately a US Child size 2 (4, 6, 8).

The pattern is written for size Small with changes for Medium, Large, and X-Large written in parentheses.

17 sts x 10 rows of alternating ltr and sc-flo rows = 4" (10 cm)

• Please watch gauge as you crochet. Vest should fit loosely over clothes.
• Keep in mind that if you choose to use normal treble and single crochet in this garment, there will be a significant difference in look and wearability. You will lose the neat textured pattern that the linked trebles create, and the stitches may snag more easily.
• Vest is worked in one piece up to the arm openings, then it is divided into 3 sections: 2 front panels and the back. The only seam is at the shoulder.
• Please note that this vest uses machine-washable yarn. I do not recommend using anything but machine-washable for your child on the go.

Special Stitches

Linked Treble (ltr) (see tutorial for more on how to make this stitch):

Set-up stitch:  Insert hook into the 2nd ch from hook, yo, draw up loop, insert hook into 3rd ch from hook, yo, draw up loop, insert hook into the 5th st from hook (note:  the top of the last st of the previous row does not count as a st), yo, draw up loop (4 loops on hook), yo, draw through 2 loops on hook, yo, draw through next 2 loops, yo, draw through last 2 loops (first stitch made).

Next stitch:  Insert hook into upper horizontal bar of previous stitch, yo, draw up loop, insert hook into lower horizontal bar, yo, draw up loop, insert hook into next ch, yo, draw up loop, (4 loops on hook), yo, draw through 2 loops on hook, yo, draw through next 2 loops, yo, draw through last 2 loops,

Linked Double Crochet (ldc):

Set-up stitch:  Insert hook into the 2nd ch from hook, yo, draw up loop, insert hook into the 4th ch from hook (note:  the top of the last st of the previous row does not count as a st), yo, draw up loop (3 loops on hook), yo, draw through 2 loops on hook, yo, draw through last 2 loops.

Next stitch:  Insert hook into horizontal bar of previous stitch, yo, draw up loop, insert hook into next ch, yo, draw up loop (3 loops on hook), yo, draw through 2 loops on hook, yo, draw through last 2 loops.

Body

With MC, ch 113 (129, 137, 155).

There is something about having a sweater with an enormous monogram on it. Even better is a giant letter in Old English script! In this pattern, I’ve paired an Old English font with a fun monogram sweater to bring you Ye Olde Letter Sweater. You will have to do a little math to create your custom pattern and a chart of your sweater before you begin stitching.

This is a very easy drop shoulder pattern that requires only basic stitch knowledge and color change skills to complete. If you want to jazz it up a bit, use front post and back post stitches to create the monogram in relief. Try varying yarn weight and hook size and placement of the monogram for a different look. Create a striped background and do your monogram in a third color. Finish the neckline and sleeves with a picot stitch or shells for a more feminine version. Or, use the method described below and design your own graphic to stitch on your sweater!

• "A" Sweater:
• 3 skeins Red Heart Super Saver in Aran Fleck 4313 (96% acrylic, 4% other fibers; 5 oz/142 g; 260 yds/237 m)
• 1 skein Red Heart Super Saver in Coffee 0365 (100% acrylic; 7 oz/198 g; 364 yds/333 m)
• "P" Sweater:
• 2 skeins Caron Simply Soft Brites! In Berry Blue 9609 (100% acrylic; 6 oz/170 g; 315 yds/288 m)
• 1 skein Caron Simply Soft Brites@ in Mango 2605 (100% acrylic; 3 oz/85 g; 157 yds/144 m)
• An appropriately sized crochet hook
• Graph paper
• Calculator

Custom.

Make a 4" x 4" (10cm x 10cm) gauge swatch then divide to find your 1” (2.54 cm) gauge.

This pattern is written for custom sizing, in a worksheet format. You can print out a copy and fill in the blanks (_____) as you go. 

**Be sure to read these carefully before beginning to measure and crochet!**

If you use the men's size chart from yarnstandards.com, note that for the length, the back hip length is given. You will not need to add anything if you decide on a hip length sweater. If you decide to make a tunic-length sweater, you will need to add 4” to the back hip length given in the chart.

If the sweater recipient is larger around the middle, take a waist or hip measurement. Use whichever measurement is the larger of the waist/hip measurement or the cross back length measurement when making your chart.

The size of the armholes will be equal to the head circumference. If an adjustment needs to be made for larger arms, measure the biceps of the sweater recipient and add 7-8 inches, whichever is most comfortable.

Be sure to carefully read the fit and measurement descriptions before you begin. Double check your math and chart before you start!

Special Stitches

Hdc2tog (half-double crochet two together [decrease]): [Yo, insert hook into next stitch, draw up a loop] twice, yo, draw through all 5 loops on hook.

Fphdc (Front-post half-double crochet):  Work a half-double crochet around post of hdc of previous row from front as follows: Yo, insert hook into space before next hdc from front, wrap hook around post of the st, yo, draw loop through, yo, draw through all 3 loops on hook.

Bphdc (Back-post half-double crochet):  Work a half-double crochet around post of hdc of previous row from back as follows: Yo, insert hook into space before next hdc from back, wrap hook around post of the st, yo, draw loop through, yo, draw through all 3 loops on hook.

I love the moon and the stars. Any time we’re out after dark (and it’s dark enough to see them – darn you, light pollution) I love to stop and identify constellations, planets, the current phase of the moon, or whatever else is there to see. My husband is very tolerant of this. At any rate, I was in the middle of making scads of things for my new baby when I realized that I had a few celestial-themed pieces for him, and wouldn’t a little crescent moon and star just go perfectly with them? Of course they would.

So here they are, simply crocheted in a pleasingly soft baby yarn. For those looking for something a little different, the pattern could be worked in worsted weight yarn for something a little larger, or you could work the star in a larger hook for a softer fabric and enlarge it to make a cute star-shaped afghan. I hope you enjoy them!

• Red Heart Soft Baby (575 yd/525 m per 7 oz/198 g skein) in Powder Yellow; approx. 1 ¾ oz/132 yds/121 m for Star, approx. 2 oz/165 yds/151 m for Moon
• F/5 hook (3.75mm)
• Stuffing
• Stitch markers
• Yarn needle

Star – 7.5"/19 cm tall
Moon – 10.5"/27 cm tall

Gauge is unimportant in this pattern.

Special Stitches

sc3tog = Draw up a loop through each of the next three stitches. Yarn over, and pull through all four loops on hook.

Star (make 2)

Note: Do not join rounds unless indicated. To help keep track of rounds, place a stitch marker in the first stitch of the round to mark the beginning of the round.

I’m a painfully slow knitter, but I love the look and texture of knitted fabric. Crocheted slip stitch does a bang-up job mimicking a knitted fabric, with the added advantage of super-strong construction - perfect for purses!

A great yarn for this type of experiment is Lion Brand’s BIG, or Big Prints. I’ve swatched the heck out of this stuff, and it normally doesn’t cooperate well with crochet. Unless you want a nobbly-looking hat, of course. In slip stitch, though, the colors look great and the texture is much more appetizing.

For this purse, use a HUGE size S hook, grab the rope-like yarn, and purge all your frustrations as you wrestle each slip stitch into place. The result is a happy purse, and perhaps slightly sore fingers.

• 3 hanks Lion Brand Big or Big Prints (A), OR pliable rope, roving yarn, or any type of super-super-bulky yarn. The green purse I made with only one hank of Amazon, but pink hanks (in the Grand Canyon colorway) have half as much yardage in them. Boo!
• 1 skein Moda Dea Wild to match (B), or matching color worsted weight yarn for the top panels of the purse, handle attachment, and closure. The pink purse uses 1 skein Cascade “Luna” cotton yarn.
• Optional scrap yarn for crochet flower embellishments. I used scrap cashmere chunky yarn for the green purse.
• Size S (19.0mm) for purse body
• Size H/8 (5.0 mm) for the rest of the purse
• Large-eye yarn needle
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors

Gauge is not crucial for this pattern. If you crochet tightly, make an effort to loosen up your stitches a little for this project. Slip stitch is extremely dense and will give your hands a workout.

When weaving in big yarn ends, unravel the yarn into its individual strands and then weave in, instead of trying to weave in a big honking end all at once (see photo, above right).

Purse handle