It’s jewelry -– or an altar cloth as the case may be -– for your coffee maker. Every morning it says “I love me” better than a thermal carafe model. Crocheted of colored wire and glass beads, this project is a good introduction to jewelry-making and the special properties of metal.

Ed. Note: Please use common sense. If the wire you use is plastic-coated or if you're using beads, do remove the doily from the heating element before using your coffee maker. If in doubt, use the doily as a trivet only, and do not use it in your coffee maker.

A standard Mr. Coffee hotplate measures 3.75 inches in diameter inside its lipped edge; minimalists will prefer 5 rows of pattern, which will elegantly rest just inside the edge. The rest of us take the beaded edging option (Row 6); the fringe loops are long enough to hang over the edge of the hotplate so that they don’t interfere too much with sliding the coffeepot in and out. The fringe row is about 1 inch high for a total diameter of about 5.5 inches.

7½ double crochets = 1 inch and 4 rows = 1 inch. Tug on your stitches a bit both vertically and horizontally before measuring.

If this is your first time crocheting wire, congratulations on entering the unique world of metalworking! This project will be good practice because it’s all double crochets. Your first stitches are likely to be loose and irregular and messy-looking. Here are some tips:

1. Try looping the wire around an additional finger for more tension. Try to make tight stitches and small contained movements.
2. Think of wire as crochet thread that already has the starch in it because when you’re done crocheting, you can tell the stitches what to do, and they will behave.  Don’t worry if the shape of your doily is bent, crooked, rippled, amateur, or otherwise hopeless. There’s no way it will look neat and even and flat while you’re gripping it to work the stitches. It will shape up when you discipline it with the flattening tool of your choice at the completion of row 5 (before you add beads). Shape the stitches by nudging and poking them with your hook.
3. You must use 28 gauge wire. Do not substitute with the next larger size (26 gauge). It just takes practice and little rest periods because it uses new muscles that other kinds of crocheting don’t require. It’s more important than usual to avoid hunching your shoulders as you work. (If you really have trouble with the 28 gauge, experiment with 30 gauge.)
4. If you find that you use one of your fingertips as a backing when trying to poke the hook through a stitch, wear a thimble or band-aid on that finger for cushioned support.
5. Assume that you can’t rip out mistakes. Sometimes you can without breaking the wire, but you will still be weakening it. It’s best to leave tiny kinks in the wire; trying to remove them stresses the wire. Wire is weird because it’s so strong that you have to manhandle it, but it can snap, so you have to baby it at the same time. If the wire does break, it matters more when you crochet wire jewelry than with this project, so don’t worry. Twist together the broken ends and keep going. With some wire projects you don’t need to weave in a long tail, just try to keep ends from popping up and feeling prickly or snagging things (especially important with jewelry items).
6. The turning chain-3 counts as 1 dc.
7. All stitches are worked into the top 2 loops of the row below.

US pattern conventions used
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
dc = double crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
rep = repeat

Instructions
If you will be adding the beaded edging as shown in the photo, string all beads now. String them in the opposite order that you’ll be using them. Either you can just string on a zillion, or you can be scientific about it and figure that 63 looped fringes will need beads. In the model, I just always made sure that I put a big red bead at the tip of the fringe, a couple of little beads on either side of it, and a couple more at the base of it. So I began stringing like this: *2 or 3 little beads, 1 big red, 4 or 5 little (includes 2 for the base of fringe loop), repeat sequence from * 62 times. Push all the beads way down the line because you won’t need them for 5 rows.

Ready?

First thing you have to understand is that I am crazy about my dog. She is a wonderfully smart, beautiful, 3-year-old German Shepard. See, for a while I have been looking for something I could make her and that was cute. A lot of people tend to be frightened at first when they see her, and I thought something cute would help make her more approachable. But she’s too big for a sweater (and we live in Maryland where it is never that cold). My husband refuses to dress her in anything girly, so no bright collar with flowers. And then the idea for this pattern hit me…

See we live in a pretty urban area, and the law at our condo is to pick up your pet’s waste. I, of course, always forget to bring poop bags when we go for walks. And I thought, if Fayette had a purse, we would always have poop bags.

The matching leash is made with Crochet Nylon because it is very strong and durable if it gets wet. I am happy to report that this leash has been strong enough to take on my hyperactive 65lb puppy. I used Tunisian crochet for the leash, but if you want, the leash can always be made with sc instead. Lastly, decorating the leash and purse is half the fun, so go ahead and be creative!

• J & P Coats Crochet Nylon, 150 yards (plenty for a long leash and purse), Color #51
• H (5mm) hook (no need for an afghan hook- a regular hook will work, because the leash is so narrow)
• 3 yards of 7/8” white ribbon
• One metal latch (I stole mine from an old leash)
• Hot glue gun
• Embroidery cotton floss, Dark Rose, 6 yards
• Strong big needle
• One small button
• Decorations for purse

US pattern notations used
Ch = chain
YO = yarn over
Sc = single crochet
Sl st = slip stitch
TSS = Tunisian simple stitch: skip first vertical bar, *insert hook under next vertical bar, YO, pull up loop*, repeat * to *. For more information, see the tutorial in our April/May ’05 issue.

Leash

Ch 5.

I first saw recycled silk yarn in my local yarn shop. I was drawn to it because it was so different from all the other yarns. The beautiful colors, interesting texture, and randomness of it all was so inviting to be explored. The yarn is handspun in Nepal using fiber remnants from garments like the beautiful, colorful, luxurious saris worn by women throughout South Asia . The colors in each skein are hand twisted into a thick and thin yarn at random, so no two skeins are alike. When I first saw the yarn, all I could think of were pillows. This particular pillow design is done in the round, forming a long rectangular shape. The front is in recycled silk and the back in blended wool silk. This design is also very flexible in size and can be made to fit just about any pillow form, see notes below. If you don’t have a pillow form or can’t find one in a size you need, just whip one up using a fabric remnant and some polyfill.

• Himalaya Recycled Silk (100% Recycled Silk, 100g/80yds, aran weight), Varying Shades, 3 hanks *Yarn available at kpixie*
• Himalaya Wool Silk (60% Wool, 40% Recycled Silk, 100g/175 yds, worsted weight), 10-Black, 2 hanks *Yarn available at kpixie*
• Size I (5.5mm) hook
• 5 Stitch markers (I used contrasting pieces of yarn)
• Yarn needle
• 8-10” piece of cardboard
• Pillow or fabric remnant & polyfill for insert

{Great thanks to kpixie for supplying the yarn for this pattern.}

14”l x 19”w

Using 5.5mm hook and sc:
Recycled Silk – 10 sc x 11 rows = 4”
Wool Silk – 13 sc x 16 rows = 4”

US pattern notations used throughout
Ch = chain
St = stitch
Sc = single crochet
Sl st = slip stitch
Blo = back loop only

This pattern is crocheted in the round, joining at the end of each round. Due to the thick and thin nature of the recycled silk yarn, you will need to use stitch markers at each corner and at the beginning of the round. The front of the pillow will be worked through the back loop only and the back of the pillow will be worked through both loops. The recycled silk yarn will occasionally twist and curl into itself. To maximize the yardage, you will need to unwind it as you go by gently pulling and untwisting. The wool silk may pull apart if tugged too hard. You can just knot the two ends together and leave the knot on the backside as you continue the pattern. Any knots will not be seen. The recycled silk will be a little more stretchy than the wool silk, so both sides of the pillow should be close to the same size before stitching together, but it doesn’t have to be a perfect match.

Changing size
To adjust the pillow size, simply figure the difference between the length and width of the finished size and that will be the number of inches your foundation chain should be. For example, for a finished size of 16”x10”, the foundation chain would be 6”.

Alternate design options
The pattern can be made without tassels. If you choose to omit the tassels, you will have enough recycled silk to make an additional round on the pillow.

There is enough of the wool silk yarn left over to make additional rounds around the edge. This option would give a contrasting border that will make a bolder presentation of shape and color.

Tip
Weave in any tail ends as you go by crocheting over them. Begin new yarn 6-8” before you want to add the yarn, crochet over it with the working yarn. Add new yarn and crochet over old yarn for about 6-8” and cut any excess.

Whether you’re lounging by the pool, skipping rocks on the river, walking by the ocean, or relaxing on the lake, you’ll find that this swimsuit cover-up fits perfectly into the scene. Make one to match each of your swimsuits, and more to match your moods. One simply won’t be enough!

• Hook, size H/8 (5.00mm) OR size needed to obtain gauge
• Worsted weight cotton (I used about 2.5 balls of Lily Sugar ‘n’ Cream to make a size 32” with 23 pattern rows.)
• Two buttons, about 3/4” diameter
• 1 needle that will fit through the holes in your buttons

4 sc per inch

When choosing a size, measure where you’d like the top of the cover-up to sit.

Sizes: 32” (34”, 36”, 38”, 40”, 42”)

US pattern conventions used
ch(s) = chain(s)
sc(s) = single crochet(s)
dc(s) = double crochet(s)
sk = skip
bet = between

Begin

Foundation: Chain 135 (144, 153, 162, 171, 180).

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Ch 4. Turn.

It all started with a quest to find the perfect shower curtain. I was looking for a modern print in colors that would complement my bathroom tile, but it wasn’t to be found.

Determined to have my dream shower curtain, I turned to crochet. I decided to buy a plain curtain and embellish it with crocheted motifs. I had so much fun with the curtain, that I carried the crochet theme through to the hooks as well. I chose to use cotton, mohair, wool and acrylic yarns. I like the mix of textures as I feel it contributes to the modern look I was seeking. Feel free to be adventurous when choosing a color and texture combination for this project. There are just 4 simple motifs involved in decorating this curtain, so you can be hanging it up in no time!

• Shower curtain (it may be one you already have, or you can use this project as an excuse to get a new one!)
• If you want to cover your hooks as well, the pattern to cover them was created to fit “Forma” shower curtain hooks that can be purchased online.
• The yarns used for the pictured curtain and hooks are as follows:
  • Color A: 1 skein (98 yds) of “Punto” (an Aran weight cotton/ acrylic/ viscose/ and polyester blend) by Schachenmayr in light gold (12)
  • Color B: 1 skein (98 yds) of “Punto” in charcoal grey (98)
  • Color C: 71 yds of “Bravo Color” (a DK weight acrylic) by Schachenmayr in cappuccino (92)
  • Color D: 60 yds of “Paris” by Ormo (a lightweight mohair/acrylic blend) in cream (7810)
  • Color E: 1 skein (162 yds) of “Bravo” (a DK weight acrylic) by Schachenmayr in heather grey (8295)
  • Color F: 17 yds of “Summer Country” (an Aran weight cotton/acrylic/viscose/polyester blend) by Schachenmayr in off white with flecks of brown and gold (02)
  • Color G: 22 yds of tapestry wool (a light worsted weight wool) by DMC in light turquoise (7692)
• Crochet hook size F (3.75mm)
• Transparent nylon thread for stitching the motifs to the curtain
• Sewing needle
• Tapestry needle

US terminology is used in this pattern
st(s)= stitch(es)
ch= chain
sl st= slip stitch
sc= single crochet
hdc= half double crochet
dc= double crochet
tr= triple crochet
rvsc= reverse single crochet (here are instructions on this stitch)
lp(s)= loop(s)
beg= beginning
fol= following
rep= repeat
sk= skip

Until a few weeks ago, I thought “alternative fibers” meant eyelash yarn. Oh, how I was mistaken. Alternative fibers really mean anything you can get your hands on to crochet and knit with except yarn. The only limitation is your own creativity. My awakening happened at the Crochet and Knitting Conference in Valley Forge. My mom, sister, cousin, and I took a class on “alternative fibers.” It was fantastic. It was like being in camp again, sitting around the fire talking while trying to make lanyards; except there was no fire and we were trying to crochet with the gimp instead. Since then, I’ve been a woman on a mission. The mission is to crochet every material, paper to plastic, in sight. Recently, when Mother’s Day came around, I wanted to make my mom something with alternative fibers to say thank you for bringing me to class. That’s when these coasters were born.

I chose black flagging tape for my mom’s coasters. I wanted them to resemble the black bamboo mats that she bought and I wanted them to be waterproof, to be used outside. Flagging tape is a heavy plastic ribbon (no adhesive on any side) that surveyors, gardeners, and hikers use to mark off areas. You can easily find it in any hardware store (gardening aisle), sports store (camping/climbing aisle), or eBay - where you can find anything. Once I finished these, I tried grocery bags just for fun (shown in photo, above). The grocery bags coaster uses both plies of the bag (one seemed too flimsy). For yours, feel free to try any alternative fiber, like hemp, curling ribbon, or twine. Just think about the fabric and the use you want to achieve. One last note, if you are new to Tunisian crochet, I would recommend trying the pattern with yarn first. Yarn is much easier to work with to master the stitch.

US pattern notation used
Ch = chain
Yo = Yarn Over
Sl st = Slip stitch
TSS = Tunisian simple stitch – insert hook under next vertical bar, YO, pull up loop. For more information, see tutorial in April/May ’05 issue.

“Basket Weave” Coaster

Missing wildflowers and deep starry skies combined with concern about the buy-it-now nature of the modern world, I set about to create something lovely from the cast-offs of many summers still lurking in my closet. The whole process was magic, from cooking up small vats of shirts on my stovetop, stirring a steaming purple cauldron from time to time, to musing about the life lived in all these clothes. One tank top’s yellowed straps led me back to a Mexican beach not far from Guatemala where I swam with manta rays and silver fish, first saw an armadillo, and finally said goodbye in the midst of orcas dancing. Another was my favorite evening shirt when I lived in a tipi at the edge of Montana mountains. Oil paint stains on another are recent evidence of my first art show last spring.

I invite you to take some time to reminisce, poke around the corners of your home (and possibly your friends’ homes) and work up this little treasure of a rug. It is extremely easy (if you’ve ever made a granny square, you’ll catch on right away). You can keep your shirt colors as they are or dye them using fabric dye or natural materials. The finished rug is about 90cm (36in) across and is the perfect size for meditation or moonlight readings, or more mundane situations like next to your bathtub. If you can’t find enough materials, or end up with way too many, you can easily change the size by subtracting or adding rows.

• At least 18 adult shirts. I used 1 men’s large T-shirt, 4 medium women’s long-sleeve shirts, and 13 tank tops. Cotton is best for dying.
• Hook size: I made my own hook from a dowel, it is 8mm in diameter. Any rug hook will work, though, as gauge isn’t crucial. Beware that a larger hook will need more yardage in ‘shirt yarn’ though.
• I used RIT dye in aubergine and royal blue, one box of each. You can use any dye you like.
• Notions: You’ll need large, comfy scissors for cutting all those shirts (you may want to wrap a small shirt scrap around the scissor handles). This is a good place to employ non-crocheting family members and friends…

First two rows equals 25cm (10in) in diameter.

US terms used
Ch - chain
Dc - double crochet means one yarnover, not two.
Sl st – slip stitch

Bellflower Rug Pattern

This rug is a process, albeit a simple one, so give yourself a few hours here and there over a few days and all will be copasetic.

This is a fun project that you can do in an afternoon. You can decorate a pillow you already have or buy one that will highlight your corsage. There are two versions to complement different pillow shapes. If you are using a small pillow, you can omit the outer petals to scale down the flower. A lighter weight yarn can also be used if you want a smaller, more delicate flower, which would make a lovely pin for a coat or jacket.

• A pillow of your choice
• Worsted/ chunky weight yarn for the Flower:
  • Center- 5½ yds
  • Middle petals- 16½ yds
  • Inner petals- 9 yds
  • Outer petals- 24 yds
  • Center detail -1¼ yds + ½ yd in 1-2 (depending on version) other yarns for embroidery embellishment
• A medium weight novelty or chenille yarn for the:
  • Center trim- 2½ yds
• Worsted/chunky weight yarn for the Blossom Spray (Version 2):
  • Blossoms- Four 1yd lengths, and one 1¼yd length of yarns used to make the flower
  • Stems- 2 lengths of yarn, one 25” and the other 20”
• One bead for the center of the flower (Version 1)
• Ribbon-in 1”-1½” width, long enough to wrap around your pillow and tie in a generous bow in the back.
• Crochet hook size G (4mm) - size can be adjusted according to the yarn you are using
• Tapestry needle
• Transparent nylon thread
• Sewing needle

US terminology is used in this pattern
st(s)= stitch (es)
ch= chain
sl st= slip stitch
sc= single crochet
hdc= half double crochet
dc= double crochet
tr= triple crochet
dtr=double treble crochet
beg= beginning
rep= repeat
fol= following
lp(s)= loop(s)
sk= skip
bet= between

Crochet this colorful coin purse for your favorite little miss! Bead crocheted purse and strap, made in one piece with tubular construction and beaded single crochet stitch.

• Size 3/2 perle cotton yarn, 100yds
• Size D, E or F hook (or size that gives you the correct gauge)
• 1 beading needle
• One decorative button

4” X 4 ¼” with a 30” strap

37 beads per sq. inch
70 inches yarn per sq. inch

US Pattern Notation Used
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
PM = place marker
Beaded chain: Draw bead up tight to work, make a chain
Beaded slip stitch (bss): Insert hook in st, slide a bead up close, yo and pull though st. and loop on hook.
Beaded single crochet (bsc):
Insert crochet hook into top of stitch in previous row, yarn over and draw loop through; slide the bead up to the stitch being worked, yarn over and draw loop through both stitches on hook so that the bead is anchored above the stitch of the previous row.
Front bead single crochet, aka Reverse Bead Single Crochet (fbsc): (Beads that you have crocheted in on the previous row will now be facing you.) Push bead up as close to the hook as you can get it, hold on to bead with your thumb, insert hook OVER thread and into sc, thread over, (keep holding the bead), pull through, thread over pull through the two loops on hook. Bead should be in the front. Keep thread tension a little tight so the bead, this will force the bead to stay in place.

The inspiration for these simple but colourful flowers didn’t come from my garden as much as from my children’s drawings. It was clear to me from the start that both colours and shapes should be bold.

They can be worked up in the yarn of your choice, and used in any way you want. Sew them on a garment, a bag, a pillow, a hat… I spread them on a table cloth, to make sure my kitchen table will remind us that is summer, even during grey and rainy days.

These flowers can be varied almost endlessly. Play around with different colours, different-sized centers or petals, and mix them with other motifs.

I used DMC Petra, which is a #5 cotton thread which comes in plenty of colours. To my knowledge Petra is sold only in Europe, but substitution should be easy since no considerations of gauge need to be made. I worked with a 1.75mm/size 6 hook.

• All colour changes should be initiated in the last stitch before the change of colour noted in the pattern. This means that the last “yarn-over-and-pull-through” in the last stitch of the previous colour should be made with the new colour. In this way, the last stitch of colour A will be completely made up with colour A, and without any “spilling over” to the first stitch in colour B.
• Flowers 1, 2 and 3 start with a loop, instead of a chain in the center. This technique has been clearly explained in a previous issue of Crochet me.
• The centers of flowers 1, 2 and 3 are worked in sc.
• Do not join rounds, except where indicated. Put a marker (e.g. a safety pin) in the first stitch of every round as a guide. Move this marker every round.

This pattern uses US terminology
Ch = chain
Sc = single crochet
Inc = increase, work 2 sts in the same st, increase made
Sl st = slip stitch
St(s) = stitch
Hdc = half double crochet
Dc = double crochet
Sc dec = single crochet decrease: insert hook into next st, yo, pull up loop, insert hook into following st, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Flower 1

Round 1: (fu

The creation of Pillow Belts came as a result of my desire to renew the looks of various rooms as the season’s change, without going broke. Depending on the yarn and/or embellishments you choose, these belts can be made: floral, nautical, funky, fancy, beaded, or elegant.

As the seasons pass, just swap the pillow belts around, and store unused belts with some lavender sachets or cedar to keep moths away and have the belts smelling fantastic the next time they come into rotation.

US pattern conventions used
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
beg - beginning

This pattern was designed for my cat Rufus. He is a lover of catnip and will fight anyone who tries to take his toys that are filled with it. I have often called catnip Kitty Weed, so I thought he should have his own Cannabis leaf. Your cat will want more than one toy so buy a large bag of catnip! This toy was tested on animals, but no cats were harmed in the use or making of this toy. J They only enjoyed it!

• One cat who loves catnip
• Size G (4mm) hook
• small amount of green acrylic worsted weight yarn
• sewing needle
• small amount of fiberfill and dried catnip.

US Notations used throughout

Ch = chain
Sl st = slip stitch
Sc = single crochet

Special notes
This pattern has a front and a back. The catnip is stuffed in to the largest leaf in the center. The two leaves are sewn together so the catnip will not come out of the leaf. My cats have used their toy for several months and it is still in good shape. Use any acrylic yarn and the toy will hold up to thrashing and biting by your cat. Make sure all of the ends are woven in well so your kitty doesn’t choke on loose yarn. If you have more than one cat you will need to make multiple toys. Cats don’t like to share their stash-filled toys.

Each side of the toy has 7 leaves.

Why not look your best in the heat of the summer? This easy cotton headscarf will keep you in style on those hot summer days.

• Classic Elite Flash 100% Mercerized Cotton (93 yards per 50 grams), Cactus Flower, 1 hank (or equivalent yarn of your choice)
• Size H (5.00 mm) hook
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends

One size.

US Pattern Notations Used
Ch = chain
Sc = single crochet
Sk = skip
St(s) = stitches

The Pattern

Ch 12.

Row 1: sc in 4th ch from hook (counts ch-3 space), [ch 3, sc in next ch, ch 3, sk 2 ch, sc in next ch] twice

I have two kids with lots of little things that need to be organized. I made a trip to the craft store for some baskets and I needed medical attention after seeing the prices stores were charging for plain, boring baskets. So, I decided to come up with some on my own using some scrap yarn from my stash. I added the fun fur to make them, well, fun for my kids to use.

Though the instructions given are for a set that would be appropriate for holding changing table supplies, I’ve made these in various sizes from change holders (3x1 inches) to Lego holders (8x10 inches). To change the size, simply adjust the number of rows on the bottom and sides. These will work with any type of worsted weight yarn and fun fur combo. Just make sure that the hook is several sizes smaller than recommended on the label on the worsted weight yarn. This will ensure that the basket is stiff enough to hold the contents.

• 1 skein fun fur/eyelash yarn. Example used Stylecraft Eskimo (50g, 98yds/90m) in ParmaViolet, 1 skein.
• 1 skein 4-ply light worsted weight yarn that matches at least one of the colors in the fun fur. Example used Caron Simply Soft (6oz, 330yds/302m) in Lt. Country Blue, less than 1 skein.
• size D-3 hook
• size C-2 hook
• Stitch marker or a piece of scrap yarn in contrasting color

The gauge is unimportant as long as you work as tightly as you can without damaging the yarn. The tighter you can make it, the sturdier the container will be.

Pattern is written using US conventions
Ch = chain
Sc = single crochet
Foll = following
Sl st = slip stitch

While this pattern is not technically difficult, the fact that you are using a hook that is too small for the yarn will probably result in sore fingers. If this is a problem, work on it a little bit at a time, or wrap the “grip” section of your hook in several layers of tape to make it wider and softer on your fingers. (Ed. note: We wrote about a nifty grip in the blog a few months back.)

Round Container

With worsted