Probably like most crocheters, I get very jealous of all the cool knitting patterns out there. While shopping with my husband for new work clothes, we saw all these knitted ties. And once again, I thought, I can do that in crochet. So for his new job, I made him this tie. And hopefully, one day he will wear it! If not, I will!

15dc x 7 rows = 2”x 2”

US pattern notation used
Dc: double crochet
Hdc: half double crochet
Ch: chain
Sl: slip stitch
Yo: yarn over
St: stitch
Dec Dc: Yo, insert hook into next st, Yo, pull up loop, Yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, Yo, insert hook into next st, Yo, pull up loop, Yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, Yo, pull through remaining 3 loops on hook

Pattern

Part I

ch 43

Inspired by the handcrafted hippy look of the Woodstock generation, this modern take on the gypsy vest is a must-have accessory. The vest is wearable no matter what your style, dress it down with jeans and a tank top, dress it up with slacks and a tunic. This piece will see you from the dog days of summer through the cool crisp days of fall and even on to chilly winter nights.

• Rayon Boucle by Fiesta (240 yds per 4 oz.) color #2131 Taos, 4-5 hanks
• US J (6mm) hook

X-Small (Small, Medium, Large, X-Large)
Bust: 35” (38” 40”, 43”, 46”)

5 chain arches and 10 rows over 4 inches (10cm)

US Pattern conventions used
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet
Sk – skip
Rep – repeat
Dec – decrease
Sl st – slip stitch
St – stitch
Tr – treble crochet

Back

(Working from bottom of vest to underarm)

Ch 40 (50, 60, 70, 80).

Row 1: 1 sc into 4th ch from hook, *3 ch, sk 1 ch, 1 sc into next ch. Rep from * to end, turn.

Row 2: *3 ch, 1 sc into next 3 ch arch. Rep from * to end, turn.

Rep 2nd row until piece is desired length from underarm. (Sample is approx. 33 inches.)

Shape armholes

Dec Row 1: Sl st across 1 (2, 2, 2, 3) chain arch(es) by working a sl st in each chain (and in any sc between chain arches). Sc in next ch arch. Continue in established pattern leaving last 1 (2,2,2,3) ch arch(es) unworked.

Work in established pattern for another 8”. Fasten off.

Front (Make 2)

Ch 26 (28, 30, 34).

Row 1: 1 sc into 4th ch from hook, *3 ch, sk 1 ch, 1 sc into next ch. Rep from * to end, turn.

Row 2: *3 ch, 1 sc into next 3 ch arch. Rep from * to end, turn.

Rep 2nd row until piece is desired length from underarm. (Sample is approx. 33 inches.)

Shape armhole

Dec Row 1: Sl st across 1 (2, 2, 2, 3) chain arch(es) by working a sl st in each chain (and in any sc between chain arches). Sc in next ch arch. Continue in established pattern to end of row. Work even in established pattern for 6 more rows.

Shape Neck

At opposite side of armhole, sl st into 1st ch, sc in ch arch. Continue working in established pattern, working a sl st into first ch of each row that begins at neck edge until 4 ch arches remain. Work 2 more rows or until piece measures 8 inches from bottom of armhole. Fasten off.

Attach pieces in desired fashion (ex. sewing, slip stitch, single crochet)

Fan Edging

Join yarn at bottom corner.

Rnd 1: Work 1 round sc all the way around. (Along bottom, work 1 sc into each ch. Along sides work 2 sc in each half diamond and 1 sc in each corner of full diamond. Around back neck edge work 1 sc in each ch arch and each sc.) Join with sl st.

Rnd 2: Sc in next st. *Sk 3 sc. Work a fan of 7 Tr in next st. Sk 3 sc. Sc in next st** rep to where you would like to place tie. Sk 3 sc. Work 4 Tr in next st. Ch 31. Sc in each ch back to fan. Finish fan with 3 more Tr.* work from * to * once (to place 2nd tie) and from * to ** all the way around, ending with sl st into first sc.

Armhole edging

Join yarn at bottom seam.

Rnd 1: Work 1 round sc all the way around. Join with sl st.

Rnd 2: Sc in next st. *Sk 3 sc. Work a fan of 7 Tr in next st. Sk 3 sc. Sc in next st* rep all the way around sl st into first sc.

Note: If fans do not work out exactly evenly spaced in end, Don’t Panic. This is why we start in an inconspicuous place.

Like many a New Englander, my favorite season is fall. Chrysanthemums are the quintessential fall flower and remind me of my childhood in Connecticut -- waiting for the school bus, playing in fall leaf piles, and apple picking. Wear your mumsy on your favorite light-weight jacket (you know, the one that is too hot to wear in summer, and not warm enough in winter, but is PERFECT for the best season of the year) and bring autumn with you no matter where you live.

This pattern for a chrysanthemum broach is an excellent project for using up scrap yarn. Just substitute the yarn you have on hand and use an appropriately sized crochet hook.

• Lily Sugar ‘n Cream (100% cotton; 120 yds/109m per 2.5 oz./70 g skein); color #00001 white; approximately 15 yds.
• US G6 / 4.00mm hook
• 1 safety pin
• tapestry needle

US pattern notations used throughout:
Ch = chain
Sc = single crochet
Sl st = slip stitch
St(s) = stitch(es)
Hdc = half double crochet

Petals are done in three levels. By starting with the middle level of petals you can easily see where the back and front petals will be made.

When I was young we had a set of little, simple finger puppets that my mom would pull out of her purse for us to play with when we had to sit still and be quiet. You know, at the doctor's office, at church, in the car... Now that I'm a mom, I decided that I wanted to make a set. I grew increasingly frustrated, however, with the absolute lack of good finger puppet patterns available. "Come on, people!" I thought. "How hard can it be to design such a little thing?" At which point I bonked myself on the forehead and pulled out some yarn.

I was right - it was easy.

These patterns are great for using up bits and pieces of yarn that are too big to just (gasp!) throw away, but too small to use for a larger project. (Can't even get a potholder out of it? No problem.) They're also a fantastic use for all of that yucky, stiff, worsted weight yarn you bought when you started crocheting and didn't know better -- of course, if you bought a lot of it, you're going to have to make a finger puppet army, aren't you? At any rate, the crocheting in this pattern is simple -- almost all single crochet, and so suitable for the beginner who is sick of granny squares and scarves, but hopefully interesting enough to make a fun diversion for the more experienced crafter. I know it was for me!

• Yarn: No specifics here! Small amounts of various colors in 4-ply worsted weight. Clean out that closet! (I used Red Heart Super Saver.)
• US G-6 hook (4.25mm)
• A yarn needle
• A teeny amount of stuffing or fiberfill.

12 sc x 16 rows = 4”x4”

US terminology used throughout:
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dec = decrease
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
lp = loop
rnd = round
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
st = stitch

All decreases in these patterns are worked by drawing up a loop from each of the next 2 stitches, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops. Join the end of each round with a slip stitch to the first st in the round.

Dragon

What could be cooler t

Please meet Miss Pink (the backpack) and Mr Bajs (the coin purse). I came up with the idea for these two designs at this year’s Midsummer party.

Celebrating Midsummer is an old Swedish tradition, and as always we celebrated the day with our friends and their families.

One of the kids at the party would talk of nothing else but Pee Pee and Poo Poo - all day long. I thought that it was quite funny at first, and being a mother to a 2-year-old daughter, I knew that it was a topic that would soon arise at our house as well. So I ended up designing the backpack Miss Pink, and the coin purse Mr Bajs, which are Swedish for Pee Pee and Poo Poo.

Miss Pink and Mr Bajs are both easy and fast projects to make, and can be completed in just a couple of evenings. They can also be made up as soft toys if you fill them with stuffing instead of making them up as the backpack and coin purse. I’m sure your little ones will love their new friends Miss Pink and Mr Bajs, as my daughter did when she got them.

• Backpack: 20 x 24 cm (8” x 9.5 ”)
• Backpack strap: 4 x 40 cm ( 1.5 ” x 16”) – to fit a small child
• Coin purse: 9 cm ( 3.5 ”)

20 sc x 22 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4” x 4”)

US pattern conventions used:
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
St(s) – stitch(es)
rep – repeat
dc – double crochet

No introduction is needed for this stunning pillow sham. Check out Josi's Spike Stitch Introduction if you'd like more information before diving in.

• 60 yards - color A, DK to Worsted Weight yarn
  (Shown in Patons Classic Merino Wool (100% wool; 223 yds/205 m per 3.50 oz/100 g) color #00240 Leaf Green)
• 240 yards - color B, DK to Worsted Weight yarn
  (Shown in Patons Classic Merino Wool (100% wool; 223 yds/205 m per 3.50 oz/100 g) color #00204 Old Gold)
• 45 yards - color C, DK to Worsted Weight yarn
  (Shown in Patons Classic Merino Wool (100% wool; 223 yds/205 m per 3.50 oz/100 g) color #00214 Dusky Blue)
• US-J hook (6.00mm)

Completed measurements, with edging 17" x 18.5"

Gauge Swatch
Start with 21 ch, and work for front of pattern repeating only 3 times between { } or 20 sc per Row. Follow pattern through Row 24 without changing color.

6 stitches (1 repeats of pattern) = 2"

12 rows = 2.5"

US Pattern notations used throughout
Ch – chain
Sc – single crochet

Front

(A) Base - Using color A, ch of 51

(A) Row 1 (right side) - 1 sc into 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc into each of the remaining 49 sc (50 sc total), turn.

(A) Row 2 - ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 50 stitches, turn.

(A) Rows 3 to 6 - repeat Row 2, changing to color B at end of Row 6.

(B) Row 7 - ch 1, sc into first stitch, {sc into next stitch, SP-2 over next stitch, SP-3 over next stitch, SP-4 over next stitch, SP-5 over next stitch, SP-6 over next stitch} x 8, sc into last stitch, turn.