This bag was designed with two people in mind. My sister, who is about to add two boys to the family, and my mother, the eternal farmers market shopper. I loved the idea of the side pocket for a small water bottle or baby bottle. The wide body is a necessity for crusty French baguettes, flowers, market veggies, and diapers.

900 yds pure wool for the body and sides, 220 yds for the assembly and straps, and some scrap wool for the contrast stitching if desired. (Anne Frost's bag, pictured in gray, used Reynolds Lite Lopi - 6 skeins for the body, 3 skeins contrast color for the sides and straps, and 1 skein of another contrast color for stitching)

Red/orange sample used:

• Patons Classic Wool (100% Pure Virgin Wool/100 g/3.5 oz/223 yds worsted weight) MC: 4 skeins Paprika
• Cascade 220 (100% Wool/100 g/3.5 oz/220 yds worsted weight): CC 1 skein 9404 red
• 1-2 ozs wool in shades of theme color for stitching
• size I (5.5mm) hook
• optional size J (6mm) hook for foundation chain on strap, see note
• Thick yarn needle for weaving ends, attaching straps, and embellishments.

Before felting = 24”w x 15”l

After felting = 16”w x 11”l

5”x5” = 15 sts x 12 rows

• After making the bag I realized my sister would need two pockets for the twins' bottles. You should have enough yarn to make both sides with pockets. To be sure, simply make up the sides first, following pocket side directions, then make up the body of the bag.
• When making up the straps, it’s a good idea to use a “J” hook to make the foundation chain then switch to the smaller hook for the remaining rows. During the felting process, the foundation chain will typically end up tighter than the last row.
• Finally, the pattern was designed with the sides of the bag 1” below the top of the main body. If you want the sides to be even with the top, simply make the sides 15” and 24” and attach them level to the top of the bag. Felting is more art than science, so some degree of variance in measurements can be expected.

Even tough big boys need some special attention when they become big brothers. Put some bath crayons in a bag just for him, toss in a washcloth, and bath time will be a celebration of big brotherhood!

Gone Wild Washcloth

• Lily Sugar’n Cream cotton yarn (2½ oz/70g per 120yd/109m), one ball each of (A) Red, (B) Bright Navy, (C) Yellow, and (D) Dark Pine, or colors of your choice
• Size H (5.00 mm) hook
• Yarn needle to weave in ends

Mini Messenger Bag

• Lily Sugar’n Cream (2 ½ oz/70 g per 120 yd/109 m), one ball of Dark Pine
• Size H (5.00 mm)
• Stitch marker (optional)
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Optional Velcro or button for closure

One size.

Gauge is unimportant in this pattern.

US Pattern Notations UsedUS Pattern Notations Used
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
sc = single crochet
sc2tog = single crochet two together (decrease)
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)  

The bag body is made in a spiral. If you would like, mark the first stitch of the row with a stitch marker to keep track of your row counts.

Begin Washcloth

With A, ch 30

Row 1: sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in each st across (29 sts)

Cigars are the traditional gift among, and for, new fathers. This little case will hold four or five full sized cigars. Made entirely with Tunisian stitch, the fabric for this case is solid and firm, but still flexible. The size can be easily altered by using more or less stitches/row, and increasing or decreasing the number of rows.

If you’re not a big tobacco fan, the case also nicely holds a small package of baby wipes.

You will need a Tunisian or Afghan crochet hook for this project. These long-handled hooks are available at most any place that sells yarn, but often in limited quantities. Occasionally a store will carry double-ended crochet hooks, and one of these works fine. Just wrap a rubber band around one of the ends so there is no confusion about which end of the hook is the working end. While it is possible to make the cigar case with a regular crochet hook because there are so few stitches with which to work, I don’t recommend it. Most crochet hooks have a flat area in the middle to secure and orient your grip. This flat area will distort the shape of the loops. Additionally, the relative shortness of the hook, compared to the longer-handled Tunisian hook, makes it uncomfortable to hold for this particular stitch. Tunisian hooks, on the other hand are smooth and round for the entire length of their long shanks. Likewise, hooks with unusually shaped or large, padded handles won’t do at all. For more information on Tunisian crochet, please see the tutorial appearing in this issue.

• Lily Sugar’n Cream, 100% cotton (120 yds/109 m per 2.5oz/70.9g), 1 ball
• Tunisian or Afghan Hook size US size G (4.5 mm)
• Elastic band (such as a hair band)

US pattern notations used

Tss = Tunisian simple stitch. See tutorial.
ch = chain
st(s) = stitch(es)
sl st = slip stitch

If you’ve never used one of these before, you’re in for a treat. Heated in the microwave or cooled in the freezer, flax seed and lavender make a fantastically relaxing and comforting combination that soothes the body and mind. Use this pack on your back, neck, feet, or anywhere that could benefit from a little TLC.

You may be familiar with making hot/cold packs with rice. But trust me when I say you’ll thank me for urging you to try flax seed instead. Flax seeds hold heat better and have no odor. Rice smells like, well… rice! Flax seeds are also shiny and smooth, giving the pack a luxurious hand. They can be found at better grocery stores (try the bulk foods section) and health food stores.

And one more thing before we start. Do not fear your sewing machine! Yes, there is a little sewing involved in making one of these, but only three straight seams. Be brave and dig that lonely sewing machine out of the closet. Don’t have one? Try a friend or neighbor. I’m willing to bet you’ll find some crafty soul who’d gladly trade you the sewing work on a flax pack for a little crocheted something-or-other.

• 100% cotton fabric, 9x17” piece (A colorful, inexpensive cotton bandana cut to size works nicely.)
• Sewing thread
• Flax seeds, 4 cups (about 24 ounces/680 grams)
• Lavender essential oil, dried lavender flowers, or essential oil of your choice (optional)
• 2 balls (2.5 oz/70.9 g each) Elmore-Pisgah Peaches and Creme or equivalent amount of worsted weight 100% cotton yarn (Note: Do not use synthetic yarn, as it may melt when heated)
• Size G/4.25mm hook or size needed to achieve gauge
• Stitch markers

8-inch (20.3 cm) square flax seed-filled fabric pack

8 x 9¼-inch (20.3 x 23.5cm) crocheted cover with four 1-inch (2.54cm) crocheted buttons

18 st and 18 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in pattern stitch (seed stitch)

US pattern notations used
ch = chain
flo = front loop only
hdc = half double crochet
sc = single crochet
sc decr = single crochet decrease (see Note, below)
sl st = slip stitch

The fabric pack should be machine-sewn because flax seeds are very small and can easily work their way out of hand-sewn seams.

The rounds in this pattern are worked in a spiral, therefore you will not join at the end of a round. When indicated, you must use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch in a round because it is not otherwise possible to tell where the round began.

The front of a chain looks like a series of Vs (and each V has a top and bottom loop) and the back looks like a series of bumps that forms a spine or ridge (see chain stitch tutorial). I’ve suggested working into the back ridge of the foundation chain because it gives the beginning edge of the work a more finished look, identical in appearance to the final edge.

How to sc decr: insert hook in st indicated, pull up a loop, insert hook in next st, pull up a loop, yarn over, draw through all three loops on hook

Fabric Pack

Starting with a 9x17” piece of fabric (Figure 1, dotted lines indicate seam allowance) fold in half, right sides together.

A washcloth and bag with a touch of spring make new big sisters feel special, too.

• Lily Sugar’n Cream cotton yarn (2 ½ oz/70 g per 120 yd/109 m), one ball each of (A) White, (B) Sunshine, and (C) Soft Violet.
• Size H (5.00 mm) hook
• Yarn needle to weave in ends

One size.

Gauge is unimportant in this pattern.

US Pattern Notations Used
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
sk = skip
st(s) = stitch(es)

Special Instructions:
When changing colors at the end of the row, drop the first color and do not cut. You will pick it up on the appropriate row/color change throughout the pattern. The edging will cover the excess yarn.

Begin

With A, ch 31

Every pregnant woman in this world should have her own little pillow to carry around or keep on the sofa for quick (or extensive) naps – you’re just so tired when your pregnant.

Thinking about it, expecting fathers need one too. Both parents would be wise to "stock up" on sleep. There will be so little of that once the baby arrives.

• Yarn: Phildar Coton Micro Fibres. 129 m/141 yds per 50 g/1,76 oz ball. 50% cotton, 50% acrylic.
  3 balls each of Ecru (color A below) and Lin (color B below)
  If substituting yarn, choose one that is easily washable.
• Hook: I used a 3mm hook, which is between a C-2 and a D-3 US hook.
• Zipper
• Pillow form or fill
• Needle

40x40 cms/15 ¾ x 15 ¾ inches

26 stitches and 25 rows in single crochet = 10 cms/4 inches

The pattern uses US terminology
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
sl st = slip stitch

About the design: The front part of this cushion cover is loosely based on the classical quilt pattern known as "Log Cabin". You make a square in the center and then crochet strips around it. When I made it, it felt like some kind of structured free-form (if you can imagine free-form in a single type of yarn and only two colors) – I even wondered whether I should make a formal pattern of it or not. I finally decided to tell you exactly what I did, though, even though your own choices could give an equally good, or better, result.

Should you choose to follow the "pattern table" below, don’t worry too much about achieving exactly the same number of stitches as I did. I’d even advise you to try to get a bit below my numbers on strips 18 and 20. Ahem. But a good blocking should straighten everything out, as it did for me.

Notes

• In order to tell the right side from the wrong, and the "top" from the "bottom", I fastened a safety pin on the right side of the fabric, with the closure oriented towards the "top" according to the schematic.
• Each strip will be fastened off at the end, with the new strip begun with a sl st in the upper right corner.
• All strips should start on the "right" side, except where indicated.
• Work over ends as you work each strip.

Special stitches used:

This schematic shows how the front of the pillow is constructed:

Pattern

Front of pillow

Strip number The author has licensed this page under a Creative Commons License. Some rights reserved. Just a Little Privacy Wrap Submitted by Crochet Me Admin on 3 January 2006 - 9:05am. Categorized As: 2005 April/May For women Shawls & Ponchos 2 - Fine Accessories Cotton Plant Fiber scarf shawl wrap Author by Kelly. A Jackson Introduction This wrap was created specifically with breastfeeding mothers in mind. Created with 100% silk chenille, it is both airy and beautiful. The wider edges of the wrap provide enough coverage to give babies privacy while eating in public, and make the wrap easy and comfortable for moms to wear. It's surprisingly warm and would make a lovely shoulder wrap for mothers-to-be for those windy spring days. I purchased the yarn for this wrap from Ebay originally, but any sport weight chenille yarn would do. The wrap was kool-aid dyed with blue and cherry after it was finished. I used a hook larger than recommended to create the lacy look. Materials List Approximately 16oz. of sport weight chenille yarn. 7mm hook (Size K hook is slightly smaller but should be acceptable) Finished Size Gauge Notes It is assumed that each row begins with either a chain 1 for sc rows, ch 2 for hdc rows and ch 3 for dc rows. Personally I reduce the number to 1 chain for sc and hdc rows and 2 ch for dc rows. For my work, it keeps the edges neater and doesn't leave a large gap between the beginning stitch and rest of the work. US pattern notations used ch = chain sc = single crochet dc = double crochet hdc = half double crochet st = stitch The Pattern 12next ›last » Search User login Username: * Password: * Create new account Request new password About Contact Copyright Policy Email Newsletter FAQ Privacy Policy Sitemap Terms & Conditions The Book Copyright Unless otherwise stated, the content of this site is licensed under a Creative Commons License, 2008. Some rights reserved. Subscribe to Feed