I’ve wanted to make snowflake-inspired crochet forever. When I met with Rowan’s “Soft Baby” in my local yarn shop, I knew that the season had finally arrived. Thanks to the various ‘circle shrug’ patterns that have been published in print and discussed online, I had a vision that a snowflake could be worn in similar fashion.  I was pleasantly surprised by the variety of styles that can be created by a simple circle. By poking your arms through the various holes, this cuddly snowflake can be worn as a capelet, scarf, wrap, or shrug.  You might find other ways too…

This project is pretty easy and only takes a few hours so it makes a wonderful quick winter gift. You can, of course, dress it up or make a homespun version depending on your yarn and closure choices.

• 3 balls of Rowan “Soft Baby” (150m per 50g) in Cloud. Another soft worsted weight yarn will work too.  
• 5.5mm (size I/9) hook
• brooch, clasp, or pin for a closure

This will fit a person with about a 16in (40cm) measurement across the upper back. For bigger or smaller sizes, substitute yarn weights and hook sizes until your first three rounds equal about 1/3 of your upper back measurement. The finished snowflake is pretty stretchy and can be worn multiple ways, so don’t worry too much!

First three rounds measure 5in (11cm) in diameter.

Special stitches:

Picot: ch 3, sl st into 3rd ch from hook.

Picot cluster:  ch 3, sl st into 3rd ch from hook (first picot made), ch 4, sl st into base ch of first picot, ch 3, sl st into base ch of first picot.

The Pattern&nbs

One of my favorite things about December is pulling out all of the old Christmas movies I loved as a child. It’s tradition! Every year, among many others, our Christmas movie list included Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer. You remember -- the 1960s stop-motion version, complete with reindeer, Santa, an elf who wants to be a dentist (a dentist?), and my personal favorite, the abominable snowmonster.

These whimsical slippers are inspired by the abominable snowmonster, but sized for little feet, from baby to small child. They’re perfect for all the little monsters on your list!

• Caron Simply Soft, 3/4 (1, 1 ½) oz. Grey Heather, 1 (1 ½, 2 ¼) oz. Off-White (amounts given are amounts required for two slippers, or one pair.)
• 5.00mm (size H/8) hook
• Yarn needle

Small (newborn – 3 months), Medium (6 – 12 months), Large (18 – 24 months)

Finished Measurements (toe to heel of sole) – Small: 3 ½ in, Medium: 4 ½ in, Large: 5 ¼ in

4 sts x 4 rows in sc = 1”

Loops in sample are approximately 1” long.

Instructions are given for the smallest size, with larger sizes in parenthesis. If only one number is given, it applies to all sizes except where indicated.

Special Technique: Bouclé Loop Stitch

In this pattern, the bouclé loop stitch will be formed with the aid of no special equipment but your own fingers. The lengths of the loops can vary widely, requiring more or less yarn than specified, but it is important to make the size of your loops consistent throughout the piece.

To make the loop stitch, *Insert hook in next stitch and before catching it with the hook, loop yarn over your left index finger, then catch yarn with hook and draw a loop through the stitch, yarn over, draw through two loops, and slip your finger out of the loop.

Repeat from asterisk across the row.

Only a little practice will make you a loop-stitch pro! Also, see our in-depth loop stitch tutorial.

Pattern (make 2)

Sole

Its 2 days before Christmas and I haven’t started the scarf for my mother in-law.  Its 2 days before my niece’s birthday and I haven’t started her purse.  OR its 2 days before my best friend’s baby shower and I haven’t started the baby afghan.  Am I worried?  Not at all, because I have mastered the art of STASH DIVING.  Here’s how:

1. First things first, you have to realize that with only 2 days you have your limits on what you can create.  I always opt for small projects like scarves or purses. 
2. Second, you must accept the actual time you have to complete the project and choose a stitch pattern that you can complete fast.  For me, it’s always openwork lacy patterns.  The more holes the quicker it goes.  That is one huge advantage we have over knitters.  Crocheting openwork is so easy, and looks so gorgeous.  So at this point, I go to my 300 Crochet Stitches book, by the Harmony Guides.  Flip to the openwork, and choose a stitch pattern.  You can do this too, or use my example below.
3. Now comes the hard part.  Go to your stash pile and close your eyes.  Put out your hand.  And without peeking, choose a yarn.  Open your eyes, and start crocheting.   I know, I know it sounds risky, but trust me.  If you keep your eyes open, you are going to start thinking about the choice of yarn and the color and such for hours.  This is no good; you have got to just get moving. 
4. Crochet at least three pattern repeats with this yarn.  And if after that, it is not what you think will work, go back to step 3, and pick again.
5. After trying two or three yarns, you are going to have a lot of swatches, and know exactly what yarn you need to complete the project.  (You controlling types are just going to have to have faith in me that this really does take less time then planning out a yarn.)

And that’s it.  That is really that is all there is to mastering your stash.  It is all about trying different yarns (that you normally would not use) with the same pattern until you are so familiar you could rattle off the pattern.  At this Zen level, no thinking is needed, and your whole being just knows the exact yarn for your project.  What’s the great upside?  You now have 3 half way finished projects for your next last minute gift.  Below you will see my latest dive and the four very different and yet very gorgeous scarves it produced.  One is perfect to keep warm, one is perfect for dressing up, one is perfectly funky, and one is MINE!  Good luck and may the Zen be with you.

1. Light Pink Scarf (pictured at right): 2 Skeins, Sirdar Primavera Double Knitting #840, (65% Cotton, 35% Acrylic), 250 yards, F hook
2. Fuchsia Scarf: 2 Skeins, Berroco Mohair Classic Heather #9543, (78% Mohair, 13% Wool, 9% Nylon), 180 yards, I hook
3. Orange Scarf: 2 Skeins, Spectrum Cotton DK Classics Panache, Color: Manderin, (100% Cotton), 250 yards, E hook
4. Light Blue Scarf: 2 Skeins, Berroco Glace, Color: Work Shirt, (100% Rayon), 150 yards, I hook

Not critical. I would suggest a hook one size smaller then recommended on label.

CH 26.

Here is your chance to learn a freeform spiral technique and wear it to prove it! This sweater wrap is crocheted with only a few simple stitches, easy to count increases, and requires no sewing! The spiral technique might take a few tries, but once you get it, there is no stopping you. I was so pleased with my accomplishment that I had to show it off as the focal point of a big, soft, alpaca sweater wrap.

• Henry’s Attic Peruvian Tweed (665 yards per 8 oz skein), 1 skein each in Cream/Beige Tweed #117 (Color A), Gray/Black Tweed #109 (Color B), Taupe/Black Tweed #111 (Color C)
• Henry’s Attic Prime Alpaca (665 yards per 8 oz skein), 1 skein in Silver Gray (Color D)
  Yarn Kit available here!
• 5.0mm (US size H/8) for size small/medium
• 6.5mm (US size K/10.5) for size large/xlarge
• Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

With smaller hook: 7 sts and 4 rows in dc = 2”

With larger hook: 6 sts and 3 rows in dc = 2”

The entire garment is worked with the smaller size hook to obtain size small/medium, or the entire garment is worked with the larger size hook to obtain size large/xlarge.

Vary the position of the increases from round to round, so they don’t line up over each other. This will ensure evenly rounded edges in the completed garment.

Body

I keep hearing two complaints: people don't know what to do with that one skein of novelty yarn they purchased on impulse, and people don't know what to do with the skeins/partial skeins of yarn leftover after completing a big project. This simple vest is an idea I came up with to bust through part of my stash and end up with something cute and fun, not hideous and scary.

I made this vest using front-loop-only single crochet to give the vest a little more texture.  Feel free to sc through both loops if you find the front-loop-only texture distasteful. The pattern for the front panels of the vest is only one example of the many ways you can utilize your stash for the front of the vest, and you are encouraged to try different stitches. The front of the vest is a little wider than the back in order to accommodate bust size. If you are particularly busty, I suggest widening the front panels by adding a few more rows.

• Back/hood/fringe: 460 (600, 740) yards of non-variegated worsted weight yarn (I used TLC Essentials in Dark Sage because that's what I had in my stash)
• Front:  175 (225, 275) yards of stash yarn in coordinating colors
• 4.5mm (size G/7) hook or size needed to obtain gauge

S: 34" bust x 20" length (exclusive of hood and fringe)
M: 36.5" bust x 24" length (exclusive of hood and fringe)
L:  39" bust x 28" length (exclusive of hood and fringe)

9 sts x 8 rows = 2.5" in sc

For this pattern, sc = single crochet in front loop only.

The double loop stitch, DLS (adapted from the book, New Design in Crochet by Clinton D. Mackenzie, Van Nostrand, Reinhold Company, 1972): The DLS is worked with the wrong side of the project facing you.  When doing DLS for multiple rows, alternate between rows of DLS and sc, unless you would like the double-loop fringe to be two-sided.  Refer to Figures A1-A3 for each step respectively.

(Directions for right-handed crocheters):
Step 1:  Grasp the yarn with your left hand and wrap it clockwise twice around your left index finger so there are two loops around your finger. Insert the hook into the stitch so there are two loops on the hook and rotate the hook so it goes under the yarn (not shown:  wrapping the hook under the yarn in the opposite direction will yield a more secured loop stitch).

Fig. A1

Step 2:  Slip the hook under the loops around your left index finger. Catch all 3 strands with the hook and bring all three strands through the stitch (the first loop on your hook) so there are 4 loops on your hook.

Fig. A2

Step 3:  Yo and pull the yarn through all the loops on the hook.

Fig. A3

Back and Sid

This friendly character flits about in striped tights, a sheer skirt with bells (of course), a cozy sweater, and a little flower cup hat. She is worked entirely in single crochet in the round in the style of Japanese amigurumi. You can play with her shaping, colors, accessories and trimmings to create any little imp you might want to have visiting this winter. I’ve used easily accessible worsted weight yarns, but I encourage you to try to make your own Sprite with stash yarns and fabric scraps you might have about. Also, she doesn’t take much, so if you do buy yarn, you’ll be able to make friends for everyone on your list.

• One ball each of the following:
• Red Heart TLC Essentials (Acrylic, 6oz) in Claret (dark red), Dk Thyme (dark green), and Med. Thyme (sage green)
• Caron Wintuk (Acrylic 3oz, 150yards/137meters) in Fisherman (cream)
• Sensations Beautiful (49% Acrylic, 51% Nylon 1-3/4oz, 71 yards/65 meters) in Off White (fuzzy white)
• A tiny piece of bright red yarn for the mouth.
  (All of these are worsted weight and you can substitute as you like.)
• 5.0mm (size H/8) crochet hook
• Tapestry or yarn needle
• Sewing needle
• Sewing pins
• Scissors
• A candle
• Green, light brown, and light pink sewing thread
• Felt scraps in light pink and forest green
• 12” (30cm) square of light green organza
• 20” (50cm) square of green tulle
• 4 3/8” gold bells
• 2/3 yard gold trim
• Pair of 3/8” animal or doll eyes
• Polyester fiberfill for stuffing

Head measures 4” (10cm) long.

Doll measures 18” (35cm) tall.

Don’t worry about your gauge, but your stitches should be tight enough to provide a stiff fabric that won’t leak stuffing!

Inc – Increase: work 2 stitches into the same space

Dec – Decrease: work 2 stitches from previous round together

Important: Crocheted dolls and animals make great gifts for kids. Think of all the fun textures and colors you could incorporate! This sprite isn’t for kids though, due to her delicate decorations. If you want to make a kid-friendly version, please consider the following: Don’t include anything that can be swallowed. Details should be embroidered or sewn on securely, and they should be flat (like felt cheeks). Clothing should be durable and fun to put on and take off or sewn on completely. Do use color changes to create clothing or details rather than adding them after.  You can add squeakers or music players inside too! Do sew arms and legs on with several passes. Be especially careful with items for kids under 3 years old, because they are the most likely to chew and pull and swallow!

The Pattern

Head and Body

Beginning at the top of the head with your skin color (mine is the Wintuk Fisherman)  make a yarn loop over two fingers twice and pull up a loop i

Two words: sports nuts. Every family has at least one. They seem like average, everyday people until you mention their favorite -- or, heaven forbid, their most hated -- team, and then they turn into raving lunatics. Sometimes it’s disturbing, but mostly they’re cute in their own way.

Sports nuts sometimes form happy relationships with one another, but other times you get a sports nut who falls in love with someone who is willing to go along for the ride to the game, but would rather keep her shirt on and stomach unpainted, thank you very much. For that couple, I offer the following pattern sets. Though it’s winter, these sports nuts and their unsuspecting partners find themselves sitting ring- or field-side, rooting for their favorite teams. The patterns below are a new take on team colors hat and scarf sets. The alternating spike stitch gives them a nice, insulating loft, and the stripe pattern in each set can be as garishly lunatic or subtly lucid as you choose. (And let’s face it, many of the team colors out there are quite garish.) The trick to toning down the team colors is to pick a nice neutral—black, gray, white, tan—and add a hint of the team colors to it. I’ve put suggestions for color changes in, but of course you should judge the degree of nuttiness of your chosen recipient and feel free to alter the stripes accordingly.

• Lion Brand Wool-Ease (197 yards / 180 meters per 85 grams/3 oz.) -- Both sets together used Cranberry 138 (Color A), 3 skeins; Gold 171 (Color b), 3 skeins; and Black 153 (Neutral Color), 2 skeins
• 6.0mm (size J/10) hook
• 6.5 mm (size K/10.5) hook
• A cd jewel case for making fringe

One size.

19 rows and 11 stitches in alternating spike stitch = 4 inches x 4 inches

ssc = shallow single crochet — Insert the hook into the space below the row, yo, draw through, yo, pull through both loops on hook.

altsp = alternating spike stitch – Single crochet in first stitch, shallow single crochet in next stitch.

inc = increase -- Work two stitches into the same stitch

dec = decrease -- Work two stitches together

altsp dec = alternating spike stitch decrease – Insert hook as for ssc, yo, draw through, insert hook into next stitch as for a sc, yo, draw through, yo and pull through all three loops on hook.

rev altsp dec = reverse alternating spike stitch decrease – Insert hook as for sc, yo, draw through, insert hook into the next space as for ssc, yo, draw through, yo and pull through all three loops on hook.

Lucid

Cloc

Sock it to 'em! It's winter, but that doesn't mean it's not time to show off our legs.

• 4 (5, 5, 6) balls Knit Picks Elegance (70% baby alpaca, 30% silk; 110 yards per 50g) in Color A (shown in Wild Rose)
• 2 (3, 3, 3) balls Knit Picks Elegance Color B (shown in Ash)
• 2 (2, 2, 3) balls Knit Picks Elegance Color C (shown in Coal)
  (Add approx 5% for each additional 1 inch in length you wish to add.)
• 5.00mm (US-H) hook
• 2.5 (3, 3.5, 4, 4.5) yds 1/8” - 1/4” elastic (thinner is better, clear elastic works best)
• 4 – 3/4” buttons (round 4 hole or barrel preferred)
• Sewing needle
• Thread to match elastic or yarn (if using clear elastic)
• Blunt tip yarn needle for weaving in ends

Skirt as shown is 16” long and sits just below the navel.  Length can be increased in ½” increments.

Instructions for the waistband of the skirt correspond to sizes as follows: XS (S, M, L, XL).  These sizes correspond to the hip measurement at its widest point as follows:

32 - 34” = XS
35 - 37” = S
38 - 40” = M
41 - 43” = L
44 - 46” = XL

Modifications available: can be lengthened.  Make certain to allow for additional length when purchasing yarn. Follow guidelines in Materials section.

8 stitches, 10 rows = 2 inches

The flounce of this skirt is constructed as one long striped panel (similar to a scarf).  Back-loop-only stitches are used to encourage the skirt to bend at the points of the pleats.  After the length of flounce is completed, the ends are slip-stitched together. The waist is then stitched in the round. Finally, a simple belt, reinforced with elastic rings, is created in order to secure the skirt and add a contrasting band of dark color at the waist (a minimizing effect).  This removable belt can be used by itself or with tops, as well as secured to the skirt.

Dart Stitch (ds) – insert hook into next stitch, yo and draw loop through, yo, insert hook into next stitch, yo and draw loop through, yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook. Click here for more on how to work the dart stitch on the return row.

2 Half-Double Cluster (2hdc-cl) – yo and insert hook into next stitch, yo and draw loop through, yo and insert hook into SAME stitch, yo and draw loop through, yo and draw through all 5 loops on hook.

Click here for instruction on how to make the double base chain (db-ch).

I have a scarf that’s about ten feet long. I adore it. I can wrap it around my neck twelve times and it still hangs down to my knees. I like to wear it under my jacket when I’m outside in the cold, but stuffing the ends in my coat makes me look like Quasimodo. I like to wear it inside over my sweater, but when I lean over the ends slip over my shoulders and drag on the floor, or I shut them in the car door and the ends get soaked. Solution: get rid of the ends. Duh. The result is a cowl that is lacy enough to be worn with a nice sweater indoors, but bulky enough to keep your neck warm outside in the middle of winter.

• Opal Sock Yarn (425 meters/100 grams) in winter white, 1 skein (or any sock or fingering weight yarn)
• 3.25mm (size D) hook

One size.

Gauge is unimportant in this pattern.

Picot: Ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook.

Note: Ooh, it’s two looks in one pattern!  To make one of those popular mobius cowls, twist your starting chain 180 degrees before you connect the ends together.  It makes it look a little more interesting – a cowl with a twist!

Let's Begin!