This pattern can be whipped up quickly, probably in a couple of hours or so. If you have a date on the slopes, start early and you'll have a GREAT FUNKY hat by the time you have to go. Be creative and change the yarn you use for rows where you add the ribbon and eyelash yarn... make it your own! Most importantly, have fun!

• 4 ply yarn, I used white Bernat Nice N' Soft
• 7 different colors of 1/8" ribbon (I had mostly 12-yard spools from the dollar store and got 2 rows out of some of them), and I used Lion Brand yarn Confetti
• Size J/6mm hook
• Yarn needle for weaving in those dreaded ends

In this pattern, ch2 before a hdc row and ch1 before a sc row -- these do not count as a st.

Always sl st into the first sc or hdc in at the end of a round to join.

When using eyelash yarn, hold one strand together with regular yarn.

A quick and easy poncho that is anything but boring. It's named it Verity because of the "V" created by the shell pattern when it's seamed, and we think the simplicity of the pattern may just reveal some truths to you as you relax into crocheting it. Classic in any colour, Verity's sleek, graphic lines lend this poncho an urban edge. Unseamed and longer, it would make a lovely wrap or shawl. This pattern of diagonally stacked shells needs to be blocked to show off its beauty; I chose to wet-block and stretch it out with my blocking wires.

• Paton’s Classic Merino (223 yds / 205m per 3.5 oz / 100g), Colour 00230, 3(4, 4) balls
• Hook size (J/10 – 6mm)

Adult S(M, L) for 43" (49", 56") around bust and arms.

Chain 22 stitches and work in pattern for 8 rows. Your work should measure approximately 5.75" / 14.5 cm wide and 4" / 10 cm to the top of a shell in the last row.

US pattern notations used
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet

A super-easy skirt pattern (all single crochet!) with explanations to help you tailor it perfectly to your measurements.

Remember when you first started to crochet -- your grand plans for designing the wardrobe of your dreams, your visions of clothing perfectly tailored to your body, created from fibers and colors you adore... do you remember?

Maybe you tried your hand at a few patterns and wondered why your results were always box-like, formless swaths of chunky yarn that bulk at the seams and look completely homemade (in the worst connotation of that word... y'know, like Eddie Murphy's houseburgers...).

Crochet Couture techniques are going to change all of that for you. Don't be afraid -- it's easier than the highfalutin name might imply. Crochet Couture simply means using the same techniques employed in constructing sewn garments (darts, insets, gussets, etc.) for the purpose of creating crocheted clothing that curves with the body and is tailored perfectly. The best part is that these techniques are generally easier to implement in crochet than with needle and thread.

The easiest and most practical of these to learn is crocheted darts. In sewn garments, a dart is placed within a piece of fabric to help it become more 3-dimmensional (as in the bust line), or to tuck away excess fabric in place of using a seam (as in flat front pants). In crochet, it is much, much easier to achieve the same shaping merely by using internal increases and decreases. With the following pattern, you will create a skirt that fits you to a T, using all sc -- what could be cooler than that? Hmmmm?

To start, you need a measuring tape, a full-length mirror, a pen and a piece of paper. You need 3 measurements (use mirror to make certain tape placement is accurate, level and doesn't pinch or pull the skin).

Your waist -- take this measurement at your belly button. Cut 2 pieces of 1/4" elastic to this measurement. Sew each strip into a ring, making certain not to twist elastic and overlapping ends no more than 3/4".

Your hips -- this measurement is 7"-9" below your natural waist and should be taken at the fullest part of your tushie.

Length -- while facing the mirror and with your feet about 6" apart, decide how long you would like your skirt to fall and make a small mark on your leg. Hold the top of the measuring tape to your belly button and measure straight down to the level of the mark. Make certain to write down this length measurement.

Take a moment to look at how your body changes from one measurement to the next. The increase from your thighs to your hips takes place on your sides and in the back -- so that's where extra fabric needs to be included in order to fit around your curves. If you crocheted a simple tube with evenly placed increases it would pull funny around your tush, sit awkwardly on your hips and stretch in unflattering ways when you move. But if you carefully place the increases and decreases to match your shape you create a seamless, tailored skirt with a custom "bottom pocket" and a waistband that lays flat.

The techniques in this pattern can be used with other yarn weights/hook size combinations. Through experimentation, however, I've found you get the best precision for the least amount of stitches with light worsted weight yarns and a 5.00mm hook. (Following this pattern is a link to instructions for this same skirt using sport weight yarn and a 4.00mm hook. If you want to use a more bulky yarn, I'd recommend a fuzzy/furry one or else the little gaps inside the stitches might be more revealing than you anticipated.)

• A short list of recommended yarns:
  Patons - Katrina, Classic Merino Wool, Decor, Canadiana
  Lion Brand - Imagine, Cotton-Ease, Monet
  Bernat - Harmony, Denimstyle, Berella
• 1/4" elastic (approx. 2 yds)
• Sewing thread
• A needle
• 5.0mm (size H) hook

Custom

Gauge Swatch (don't skip this step!):

Using a 5.00mm hook, db-ch 12

Row 1 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 12 chain, turn.

Row 2 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 12 stitches, turn.

Rows 3 to 10 -- ch 1, 1 sc into each of the next 12 stitches, turn.

Measure in the center of the swatch. Adjust hook/tension to achieve this gauge:

10 sts = 3"

8 rows = 2"

Using this gauge and your measurements, you can determine how many stitches you need for your starting chain. Crochet has some stretch, so to create a fitted skirt that hugs your heinie without any ease (ease is the technical term for the space in between the clothing and the body), you should go about 10% smaller than the gauge.

Confused? Don't stress. Contrary to what Barbie might think, math is easy. The first part of this pattern walks you through the steps and tells you how you can adjust the numbers to fit you perfectly. Following the explanation is a pattern for this skirt in 4 general sizes (2/4, 6/8, 10/12, 14/16). To help you along, the written instructions are color-coded to the rows in the pattern that they describe. Try it the hard way first and only peek at the answer if you get stumped.

Our gauge says 10 stitches for every 3 inches. That means there are 3.33 stitches for each inch. If we shave off 10%, we get 3 stitches per inch. So, the number of stitches for the widest part of your skirt should be -- your hip measurement x 3... well, almost. It makes all the other parts of the skirt easier to work out if you use a number evenly divisible by 4. Here's an example:

Let's say your hips measure 39". That would mean you need 39 x 3, or 117 stitches. However, 117 is not evenly divisible by 4, so you should round to the nearest number that is -- and in this case that is 116 stitches. Your starting chain should be 8 stitches fewer than this number. Again, if you don't want to bother with the math, a pattern follows, but it won't fit you as perfectly if you do it that way.

See tutorials for db-ch, sc-reduce, and the bump stitch.

Need a quick accessory? Panic no more! This super quick, totally versatile pattern will come to the rescue. It's a belt! It's a scarf! It's a hair wrap! It does everything but carry your groceries, and adds that extra punch to your outfit while it's at it.

• G/6 hook (4.25mm)
• Various worsted weight yarns: 1 piece 12 feet long; 19 pieces, each 18 feet long

The Crazy Belt will be around 6 and a half feet long if your gauge is around 3 stitches per inch. If you’d like it to adjust the size, simply keep the 2:3 ratio of short to long pieces. Then, if your belt will be shorter, just stop wherever your yarn runs out. If you want it to be longer, when you get to the end of the “To Begin” section, start again from the beginning!

This pattern is excellent for using up all that “leftover” yarn you’ve been collecting! You don’t need to use 20 pieces just because I did. You can use more or fewer strands to achieve the look you want. Also try experimenting with different textures of yarn, assorted color schemes, and using longer or shorter pieces (but keep a 2:3 ratio in the lengths).

US pattern notations used
ch = chain
sc = single crochet

Start with the shortest piece. Leave about a 7-inch tail when making your first slip knot.

This is the perfect bag to take with you on your winter vacation to that nice, warm destination you've been dreaming about. Or, let's face it, it's also just a great summer bag. It’s durable, roomy, and easy to clean – just toss it in the washing machine!

• 7oz. / 200g of plastic yarn in your choice of colors (I used Adriafil SUN yarn in color 172)
• Size F / 3.75mm crochet hook
• Plastic purse handle rings
• 1.5 yards / 1.5 meters of 1” / 2.5cm wide ribbon
• Yarn needle
• Scissors

US pattern notations used
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = triple crochet
sl st = slip stitch
cl = cluster stitch*
yo = yarn over
x = times

*Create the cluster stitch as follows: * yo, insert hook in st, yo, pull through st, repeat from * 4x, yo and pull through all sts on hook.

This is an elegant (and warm) version of one of the latest trends. Wear it low on your shoulders with something strappy, or drawn slightly higher and paired with a sleek turtleneck. If you’re daring, try it as a drawstring miniskirt matched with bold tights and boots.

• 2 skeins (140g each) of Bernat Soft Bouclé Yarn (I used the “Tropical Spray” colour)
• G/6 hook (4.25mm)
• 3 yards of a satin ribbon in a coordinating colour (1/2 inch wide)

Pattern is for size M (S, L)

12dc and 8 rows = 4” x 4” (10cm x 10cm)

US pattern notations used
st = stitch
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
dc = double crochet
fpdc = front post treble crochet
bpdc = back post treble crochet

In this pattern, the cross stitch (which appears as a row of Xs) is made using this technique: fptc around second st from hook, fptc in the skipped st.

Ch 3 at the beginning of a round will count as the first dc.

Begin

Starting: Ch 142 (122, 162). Sl st to join.

Row 1: Ch 3. 1dc in each st around. Sl st to join.