I've been wanting to make this sweater since I got the book. I don't know how much time I will be able to spend on this, but I'm in! (if nothing else this gives me a reason to get more yarn...)

Coincidentally, I started this at the weekend! I'm using an eau-de-nil colour yarn which I think is a mohair/acrylic blend (a friend let me rummage through her stash and it caught my eye). I'm going to change it slightly, but it'll still be a Tall Latte (even though it's a pale green/grey/blue yarn, lol!).

Check my progress on my blog cherriss.blogspot.com and ravelry - my nick is creativesoul. I am at near end of shoulders!! :)

Okay, I just got the yarn for this sweater. I am going to try to get it started this weekend.

While I was waiting for my yarn to be delivered I started trying to figure out the stitch pattern with some stash yarn I had... That swatch is now half a sweater. (It looks like I am going to end up with two Tall Lattes, one in purple acrylic that I am never going to wear and the one in navy wool that I originally intended to end up with.)

It's probably a good thing that I have gone through the pattern once before starting with my good yarn because I've run across some issues, maybe you guys can help.
First off, I am working on size 39 and it seems that the instructions for rows 10-15 include a repeat of row 7 that shouldn't be there. If I leave it out I come up with the right number of pattern repeats.
Secondly, now that I am working on the body portion of this sweater, I notice the size seems too big. It seems baggy through both the shoulder and stomach areas (although I only have a few inches of the latter part finished) but it fits nicely through the bust. I am wondering if I should move down a size (to 36) and include the bust short rows to make up the difference; or if I should try to include some sort of waist shaping into size 39?

Sorry about the long post, but I would like to hear what you have to say before I start on my "actual" version of the sweater.

did you get the gauge?

Yep, I'm on gauge. But I was thinking maybe I should just drop down a hook size for the sections that seem too loose. I'm hoping that will pull it in enough.

I'm on row 13 size 39 and I have 38 shells. I'll check the pattern and will tell you what I think.
What yarn re you planning to use? and hook? and what are you using now?

You mean after you've done rows 10-15 (7,8,9,7,8,9) there shouldn't be row 7 after that, right? Because it is inc. row and there will be more than 38 shells after, right?

Row 7 does increase the # of shells in the row, and the number of rows to 16, which were concerns. But also the next row (joining) for size 39 says to work in pattern to the next inc-sh, which you don't have if you've just done row 7.

(I'm using knitpicks worsted wool & an I/9 (5.5mm) hook)

row 15 that equals to row 9 has inc-SH. Anyway, I joined yesterday without row 16 and it is too big for me. I plan to do several more rows and then see how it will look. Maybe I'll do part of one sleeve also. If it still doesn't fit, I'll do size 36.
I wonder how other women did with the same patterns from this chapter.

Do you have pictures of your tall latte? Do you have a blog? I want to see what you've done and how it fits you.

Looks like everybody has done size 33 or 36. I've read CAL here about Jewel top

I haven't really had a chance to work on this much in the last week as life was busy with midterms. I did get in a few rows with a smaller hook. It isn't doing much for the overall size and I really don't want to frog the whole thing - so I am going to have a big purple sweater. At least there will be plenty of room in the hips, right?

I have some pictures on my camera, I'll try to transfer and upload them this weekend.

Hi folks--
Somewhere a while back, I exchanged email with Doris about the instructions for Tall Latte. Hope this helps!
I wrote:

"In Size 36 of Tall Latte, in the book and also as the pattern was published on the Canadian Living website, it says:
Row 7: Ch 3, 2 dc in first dc, sc in next ch-sp of sh across, end with 3 dc in top of tch, turn.

Before "across" it should say "work in pattern":

Row 7: Ch 3, 2 dc in first dc, sc in next ch-sp of sh, work in pattern across, end with 3 dc in top of tch, turn.

Doris confirmed:

"Typo (omission) on page 53, size 36, Row 7. It should say work in pattern across. If we ever go into a second printing, they'd better jump on that! ... Also: the instructions to work "PATT ROW 1" refer back to the Stitch Pattern in rows (sh, sc) as listed for Jewel on page 37. All garments in the pullover chapter use the same shell stitch pattern; all the notes for basic stitch pattern in rows and rounds apply to all."

HOPE THIS HELPS!

http://www.randomhouse.com/crown/pottercraft/errata/everydaycrochet.html

Hey, the publisher actually started a corrections page! There are correx for CINNABAR and TALL LATTE (which means they probably apply to any other sweaters based on those two).

Tall Latte (Page 53)

First column, addition to line 34:
Size 36

Row 7: Ch 3, 2 dc in first dc, sc in next ch-sp of sh, work in pattern across, end with 3 dc in top of tch, turn.

CINNABAR, Page 66-67, corrections for Size 35 from Row 2

ROW 2: Ch 3, (dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in first V, V in corner ch-sp, SH in V, *[V in shell, SH in V] to next corner ch-sp, V in corner ch-sp, SH in V*; repeat from * to * 2 times, except omit last SH, instead (2 dc, ch 1, dc) in tch-sp, dc in third ch of tch, turn -- 10 pattern repeats.

ROW 3: PATT ROW 2, fasten off, turn.
Add sts to shape front neck, increase corners as follows:

ROW 4: BASE CH/SC 6 (for front neck extension), V in first dc, SH in V, INC-V in next corner ch-sp, *SH in V, [V in shell, SH in V] to next corner ch-sp, INC-V in next corner ch-sp*; rep from * to * 2 times, SH in V, V in top of tch, ch 1, BASE CH/SC 6 (for front neck extension), turn.

Last week was spring break for me and I took the time off from school to finish this sweater (I'm working on getting pictures up - my camera doesn't seem to want to cooperate with my computer) I love the way it turned out. The ribbing around the neck and sleeves finishes it off nicely. Also, the shells give the sweater a nice texture and just enough stretchiness. The sleeves are long enough to be warm without being in the way, this is a great sweater for spring.

How are things going?!? I just started Haru, which begins the same as Tall Latte, and started a new topic for it.

My sweater turned out to be off the gauge--it is too big for me, so I'm starting over. I'll do size 33 probably and change the hook to 6 or 5,5 mm. I don't like worsted weight at this gauge--it is too bulky.
What yarn weight did you use?

Yay, my electronics want to work together again!

So, pictures...

(Isn't it so much fun doing the "I'm taking pictures of myself so they're at a weird angle" thing?)

And now for the project details.
The yarn is knitpicks worsted weight wool, I used an I/9 hook for the shoulders/bust and then an H/8 hook for the body, sleeves, and edging. Size 39 pattern.

For those of you following my sweater progress, I have completely abandoned the purple version which was horribly too large. I made both the same way, in the same size, but their gages were incredibly different. I'm glad that this version turned out right.

I like your color combo.

OOOH! Thanks for pictures! Not bad for holding it in your own hand! I try doing it with the self-timer but it always takes about 4 shots even to get myself into the frame. Thanks for sharing your yarn details; I have thought of trying that yarn, and it looks great in your sweater.

About sizing -- blocking and wearing these sweaters they tend to lengthen and they can "skinny" a little because the stitch pattern is so flexible and mobile. I'm now making no. 4 and I've done size 36 (Jewel), 42 (No Sweat), 40 (Cinnabar), and 39 (Haru, in progress) and they all fit but in different ways. Wet-blocking made a huge difference in how good they look; it makes my stitches look much more even than they actually are!

I'm rockin' along with Haru, which is basically the same as Tall Latte except that the front is open. I CAN'T forget to turn my work with each round, since I get to the front edge and there's nowhere else to go! (Making No Sweat and Jewel, I sometimes forgot to turn my work, and it makes a subtle but visible change in the look of the rows).