Is it the new pattern, Mohair Handwarmers, made up of dc rows? The ch 3 at the beginning of a row can lead to gaps or just look a little wrong. Some tricks I've read and some I've tried are:

- Ch 2 to make a firmer edge.

- Ch 2, but then dc in first dc. The ch 2 just gives you some height but does NOT count as the first stitch.

- Sc in first st, then ch 1, then dc in next st and across. This gives you a fatter stitch than the ch 3.

- Ch 3 but then draw up a loop in the middle of the ch 3 and then draw up a loop in the top of next dc. Work the loops off in the normal, dc way. This eliminates the gap.

Some of these methods are better at solving the problem of gaps when sewing seams, some would work for plain edges. Swatch to see if they help and which you prefer. Good luck.

Another thought - slip-stitch along the plain edge to tidy it, about 3 sl sts per row. Swatch first. I think a sc edge would be too heavy, but it might work.

I just found another improvement on turning chains by Megan Mills on YouTube, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44ahp_jwvAw about 2 minutes into the vid. I'm going to have to learn that!

Also, Google for her site. She has some very nice designs on her site. I've made one of her tea cozies that looks like a lot of petals.

A swatch is a very useful item that everyone hates. It's simply a small sample, about 4" x 4", of the stitch pattern you'll be using on your project. You can measure how many stitches and rows per inch to determine your gauge, practice new stitches, borders, and eventually test washing and blocking techniques. Um, best to measure gauge after washing/blocking. But it's a pain to do if you are eager to get on with your project. I've also found that my swatch gauge doesn't always match my project gauge, so my project ends up larger or smaller than I calculated. :^(